Hi. again George, Once again, I am very much impressed in the level of knowledge you share with the community. I have much knowledge of the OHM's Law, but was very much pleased to see how you were able to demystified it for the benefit of the community. Stay home, stay safe and keep up the great work.
Great videos George! Been binge watch your channel while putting PBW in my carboys, getting back into the hobby and getting the brew center cleaned up and serviceable. You've been a real inspiration and I'm looking forward to trying distilling.
Good info, and I hope it helps people towards better understanding of how many heating appliances work. One small critique, which may have been simplified on purpose, is a P.I.D. generally does not reduce or vary Voltage. It most often just rapidly pulses the relay allowing power to flow for short times. following its algorithms and the info coming from the Thermocouple to determine how long to let power flow to the resistance heater device/element. The focus and recommendation for over rating your safety and control devices was well stressed and is such an important thing. I greatly appreciate the clarity, and scientific approach you bring to your information sharing George.
Of all the equipment I've invested in, hands down the most beneficial item I have is my PID. There is no better source of heat than electric for a still since it is totally controllable. Hook a PID to your electric still and suddenly you can control temperature very precisely. Temperature control is an essential element in producing a fine spirit. If you don't have a PID, buy one from George or make your own. George has videos showing how to build one. JUST DO IT! Get a PID and you will move to a whole new level of distilling. Thanks George you are, "Saint George the distiller".
SkyHook . Drones built a PID but just can’t get it working right had to go to an scr. The pid gets close to the input temp but once there it starts to swing the temp by a wide margin +/- 30 degrees. Anyone have any ideas. Is it possible my inkbird was just faulty?
@@arealcanadian419 Hard to say without more info. Did you build it from George's design? Perhaps it is not dialed in correctly. In one of George's videos on building a PID, he outlines the various parameters to set up the controller. I built mine using a My Pin controller, so not sure if the Inkbird is set up the same. Also, what thermal probe are you using? It must be a type "K" and should be at the top of your column.
Nice and simple explanation George. May what to mention wire size for safety to eliminate overheating if too small of wire is used for a particular current draw. Like the virtual white board. Cheers
You've just summed up my obsession from a few years back into a short n sweet video. Wish I saw this back then! Tried a few methods. I personally like controlling the voltage to keep a constant input and output. I find with other controllers it is 100% or 0 and drives fluctuations/waves for the output (reflux mode that is). Add heat input, increase evap rate, cut input to 0 while keeping reflux water rate the same... Well, looks like your still has an enlarged prostate. PIDs properly applied do a great job, but not your cheapest option usually. You've done solid research on this and summed it up well. Keep great content flowing, really enjoy your videos on the subject.
@@mikeweldon2347 I am in the Inland Empire. I have been watching, emailing and chatting with George for nearly two years. He is such a fine teacher of the craft and one hell of a nice guy. How long have you been in the hobby?
@@4mikesutube Hi ML I am 35 miles from the giant redwoods. On the edge of the Sequoia National Forest. I am with you George has fantastic info and is easy to understand.. I have about 18 months in the hobby. Things are starting to get very good. Thanks for the note..
I took temperature measurements heating water, for my electric stove, 40% is approx 170*F. 25% is 125*F. 50% is 205*F. I havent started distilling, need a big bag of ice and a fan. I saw a guy distill with a large cookingpot and large metal bow with ice; inside cooking pot, slightly elevated was a small bowl were cooled distillate dripped into. He changed ice a few times, took 2 or 3 hours. What scared the ba'jesus outta me was learning of low flashpoint, but it changes based on percentages, like 40% hard to ignite but 50% easier. 20% ethanol ignites around 140*F or something like that. Pure Ethanol I believe is 70*F. Its scary info but important to distill safely. Btw good to see ya Mr Barley & Hops ☺👍
Good option for sure. They work for a lot of uses. Might add a recommendation thru experience. Get yourself a well oversized version and buy 2. Nothing worse than your magic smoke coming out of your controller when it matters most. They work great till they don't. At that price, keep a spare.
@@buck10539 Yup, they are a great cheap option that allow a lot of hands on control. PIDs are also a great option that allows you to pay less attention by paying more for the setup, but I'm usually there for the show anyway. You can also find these speed controllers online called a SCR. Take your element amperage from the video and double it for buying your SCR. They get awful hot when you shoot for lower voltage settings. It's good to shoot for an overrated unit and keep a spare for the day it gives up.
you seem like you had an interesting career in the military if not then youre a real thinker i like to use my brain too , not that im a genius far from it. guessing higher voltage is more efficient due to lower amperage, i like dc less likely to cause fibrillation in the event of getting zapped
Marlin, I believe George has his number backwards. If you divide 120/240 you get .5 Then when you square that you get .25. If I am wrong, I am sure I will be corrected.
@@BarleyandHopsBrewing You're welcome, George. I do like your contributions! I get hung up on a mathematical mistake, and can't pay good attention afterward, or I might have noticed that the original formula was in error, not the result. Have a good day.
Hey george been watching your videos for couple months now :) I'm from south africa. Super cool show and very informative. Really appreciate everything you do for us. Unfortunately electricity is to expensive and inconsistent here. So we use gas burners for our 13keg reflux stills. If you could maybe please help the ones that use gas or the way you say its "propane" because not many people can follow your channel because you only use electricity but you will get alot more followers if you also include videos using gas. I follow you anyway. But I'm sure you will dbl in followers (subscribers) if you also cater for both sides of distilling. Electricity and propane. Would really appreciate that. Thank you. Happy distilling
Unless you don't have electricity, why would you run a still on anything else but electricity? Fired heat will never be as precise as electric heat. You got to move up to the good stuff, electricity!
Listen south Africa does not have cheap electricity and there is a thing called "load shedding" here. Which means our power station switches off our electricity wherever they like. So my only way is propane :) a helpful comment would be great thank you 😀 but seems you live the high life by your response. We have to make way for what we enjoy in life. Gas is our only way. People like me watch channels like this to learn and follow instructions. Have a great day.
Well, I have and use both. I have a natural gas stove in the house, and a NuWave hot plate in the shop, as well as a regular old department store hot plate in the garage. I prefer the gas burner in the house for my stripping run because it’s faster, even on low heat. I also notice the electric hot plate leaves heat discoloration on the stainless steel boiler, even though it doesn’t scorch the goods. I think what it boils down to (a little pun there) is you use what you have to get to the end result as long as you are safe. You can drive to work or ride your bike. Either one is fine as long as you get there on time (unless you are in California). Just my .02...
@@TheTmnatr most definitely. Thanks for being understanding and not running your life with an ego bursting out your ass. Appreciate the kind words. Our product is really good. I know we can make it better by going electricity but its not so easy for our circumstances. So just thought getting some advice on regulation with the gas. Maybe george sees this. Maybe he doesn't. But if not I will just carry on playing around until I have it perfect
Most propane regulators are atmospheric. Here in Colorado I have noticed that can set my burner to #2 one evening and it takes 45 minutes to start producing (after foreshots) but then floats between 172-180 until the quantity of the still decreases at wich time it starts to steadily climb just like normal. Other days it shoots up in 15 and I have to chase it all over the place, and the common denominator seems to be the weather patterns. I’m just resolved to camping out and continuously monitoring it, not a bad idea anyway when working with flammable substances. I use the “downtime” to relax and sample previous batches. I always have friends and neighbors willing to “help out” I think there is probably a way and what I think you are asking is the possibility of a DC pid controller (solar/battery powered) that would regulate your gas flow? I can definitely see an off grid use for this...
Hmm I assumed anyone who knows how to change breakers and wire these things up would know to adjust wire guage accorindgly....but you know what they say about assume... HEY! Guy in the back! Here's the chart! waterheatertimer.org/images/Water-heater-Wire-size-chart1000.jpg
Glad your brought up breakers. Take a look at the rating of 99% of the breakers out there (100% of breakers for residential). If you look at the detail of those devices they are rated to 80% of the breaker size. A resistive load, like a heater element, that’s pulling more than 80% of the rated amperage will overheat and become a fire hazard.
@@mikemeyer239 George has explained this in other videos, go look at his wiring a 240 volt breaker, and he said in the video that most electricians would go 125%, guess you missed that
I didn’t miss anything. Wiring by anyone other than a qualified electrician is a recipe for disaster, especially when the advise offered is inaccurate.
Hi. again George,
Once again, I am very much impressed in the level of knowledge you share with the community. I have much knowledge of the OHM's Law, but was very much pleased to see how you were able to demystified it for the benefit of the community.
Stay home, stay safe and keep up the great work.
Great videos George! Been binge watch your channel while putting PBW in my carboys, getting back into the hobby and getting the brew center cleaned up and serviceable. You've been a real inspiration and I'm looking forward to trying distilling.
You have the best and most informative videos, hands down. Thank you for your dedication, your passion to the art and your commitment to educate.
Good info, and I hope it helps people towards better understanding of how many heating appliances work.
One small critique, which may have been simplified on purpose, is a P.I.D. generally does not reduce or vary Voltage. It most often just rapidly pulses the relay allowing power to flow for short times. following its algorithms and the info coming from the Thermocouple to determine how long to let power flow to the resistance heater device/element.
The focus and recommendation for over rating your safety and control devices was well stressed and is such an important thing.
I greatly appreciate the clarity, and scientific approach you bring to your information sharing George.
Of all the equipment I've invested in, hands down the most beneficial item I have is my PID. There is no better source of heat than electric for a still since it is totally controllable. Hook a PID to your electric still and suddenly you can control temperature very precisely. Temperature control is an essential element in producing a fine spirit. If you don't have a PID, buy one from George or make your own. George has videos showing how to build one. JUST DO IT! Get a PID and you will move to a whole new level of distilling. Thanks George you are, "Saint George the distiller".
Awesome. I've been using a PID for over 8 years now.
I purchased a 110v PID from George a few weeks ago, to use with my (soon to be bought) Mile High still. Cannot WAIT to try it out. Thanks George!
SkyHook . Drones built a PID but just can’t get it working right had to go to an scr. The pid gets close to the input temp but once there it starts to swing the temp by a wide margin +/- 30 degrees. Anyone have any ideas. Is it possible my inkbird was just faulty?
@@arealcanadian419 Hard to say without more info. Did you build it from George's design? Perhaps it is not dialed in correctly. In one of George's videos on building a PID, he outlines the various parameters to set up the controller. I built mine using a My Pin controller, so not sure if the Inkbird is set up the same. Also, what thermal probe are you using? It must be a type "K" and should be at the top of your column.
Nice and simple explanation George. May what to mention wire size for safety to eliminate overheating if too small of wire is used for a particular current draw.
Like the virtual white board.
Cheers
You've just summed up my obsession from a few years back into a short n sweet video. Wish I saw this back then! Tried a few methods. I personally like controlling the voltage to keep a constant input and output. I find with other controllers it is 100% or 0 and drives fluctuations/waves for the output (reflux mode that is). Add heat input, increase evap rate, cut input to 0 while keeping reflux water rate the same... Well, looks like your still has an enlarged prostate. PIDs properly applied do a great job, but not your cheapest option usually. You've done solid research on this and summed it up well. Keep great content flowing, really enjoy your videos on the subject.
This is what I watch at 2:38 am
Still impressed with your electrical knowledge George, reminds me of when I studied electricity as a kid. Would almost mistake you for an electrician.
George tell everybody you cant just change a circuit breaker you also must make sure the wire size will work... GREAT WORK GEORGE FROM CALIFORNIA
Hey another Californian watching George. Welcome to the group.
@@4mikesutube Hi Michael thanks for the welcome . What part of our beautiful state do you live in? Mike Weldon. I'm in San Joaquin valley
@@mikeweldon2347 I am in the Inland Empire. I have been watching, emailing and chatting with George for nearly two years. He is such a fine teacher of the craft and one hell of a nice guy.
How long have you been in the hobby?
@@4mikesutube Hi ML I am 35 miles from the giant redwoods. On the edge of the Sequoia National Forest. I am with you George has fantastic info and is easy to understand.. I have about 18 months in the hobby. Things are starting to get very good. Thanks for the note..
@@mikeweldon2347 that is beautiful area of California. Remember backpacking around Mt. Home / Balch Park and down the Tulare River.
Happy Distilling, George! Thanks for another great video.
Thanks George for your very interesting video...even good to improve my english.
I took temperature measurements heating water, for my electric stove, 40% is approx 170*F. 25% is 125*F. 50% is 205*F.
I havent started distilling, need a big bag of ice and a fan. I saw a guy distill with a large cookingpot and large metal bow with ice; inside cooking pot, slightly elevated was a small bowl were cooled distillate dripped into. He changed ice a few times, took 2 or 3 hours.
What scared the ba'jesus outta me was learning of low flashpoint, but it changes based on percentages, like 40% hard to ignite but 50% easier. 20% ethanol ignites around 140*F or something like that. Pure Ethanol I believe is 70*F. Its scary info but important to distill safely. Btw good to see ya Mr Barley & Hops ☺👍
I've been using a speed controller for a router on my1500 watt hot plate for 5 years now and it works great. Paid $20 for it.
Good option for sure. They work for a lot of uses. Might add a recommendation thru experience. Get yourself a well oversized version and buy 2. Nothing worse than your magic smoke coming out of your controller when it matters most. They work great till they don't. At that price, keep a spare.
@@leperousbeing You are probably right, I'm sure. Just haven't done it yet. I like them because I can control the temp within a couple of degrees
@@buck10539 Yup, they are a great cheap option that allow a lot of hands on control. PIDs are also a great option that allows you to pay less attention by paying more for the setup, but I'm usually there for the show anyway. You can also find these speed controllers online called a SCR. Take your element amperage from the video and double it for buying your SCR. They get awful hot when you shoot for lower voltage settings. It's good to shoot for an overrated unit and keep a spare for the day it gives up.
Will you please put the name of controller on your video, thankyou
@0:47 No no no. Strictly speaking, voltage regulator controls your voltage. Silicon controlled rectifier converts your AC voltage to DC.
Hi George. At what price would you sell a PID built for two 6000 watt 240V elements?
George I have a question. Could you tear an oven down and use the system that regulates the temperature similar to a pod? If so what is that called
Ah HA! I see George has updated his white board technology....
Great presentation as always :)
@morse Thanks! Soon... Soon. 25 degree in water calibration is currently on the editing room floor. Cheers, Joey Joe Joe Jr.
Thank you George!
Copper or stanles stell is better for make distell
you seem like you had an interesting career in the military if not then youre a real thinker i like to use my brain too , not that im a genius far from it. guessing higher voltage is more efficient due to lower amperage, i like dc less likely to cause fibrillation in the event of getting zapped
George, 240 divided by 120 is not .5, it is 2. unless I am missing something?
Marlin, I believe George has his number backwards. If you divide 120/240 you get .5 Then when you square that you get .25. If I am wrong, I am sure I will be corrected.
120/240 is .5
@@BarleyandHopsBrewing You're welcome, George. I do like your contributions! I get hung up on a mathematical mistake, and can't pay good attention afterward, or I might have noticed that the original formula was in error, not the result. Have a good day.
Hey George could you do a video on wine smelling like sulfur?
Throw some copper pipe inside. It will react with sulfur & get rid of it.
Appreciate it!
Well that's good timing, just bought a 4400w for the new still.
by controlling the Voltage you controll the amount of electrons - Amperage that flows through a circuit.
ohm's law... you can't beat it or exceeded it.
Hey george been watching your videos for couple months now :) I'm from south africa. Super cool show and very informative. Really appreciate everything you do for us. Unfortunately electricity is to expensive and inconsistent here. So we use gas burners for our 13keg reflux stills. If you could maybe please help the ones that use gas or the way you say its "propane" because not many people can follow your channel because you only use electricity but you will get alot more followers if you also include videos using gas. I follow you anyway. But I'm sure you will dbl in followers (subscribers) if you also cater for both sides of distilling. Electricity and propane. Would really appreciate that. Thank you. Happy distilling
Unless you don't have electricity, why would you run a still on anything else but electricity? Fired heat will never be as precise as electric heat. You got to move up to the good stuff, electricity!
Listen south Africa does not have cheap electricity and there is a thing called "load shedding" here. Which means our power station switches off our electricity wherever they like. So my only way is propane :) a helpful comment would be great thank you 😀 but seems you live the high life by your response. We have to make way for what we enjoy in life. Gas is our only way. People like me watch channels like this to learn and follow instructions. Have a great day.
Well, I have and use both. I have a natural gas stove in the house, and a NuWave hot plate in the shop, as well as a regular old department store hot plate in the garage. I prefer the gas burner in the house for my stripping run because it’s faster, even on low heat. I also notice the electric hot plate leaves heat discoloration on the stainless steel boiler, even though it doesn’t scorch the goods. I think what it boils down to (a little pun there) is you use what you have to get to the end result as long as you are safe. You can drive to work or ride your bike. Either one is fine as long as you get there on time (unless you are in California). Just my .02...
@@TheTmnatr most definitely. Thanks for being understanding and not running your life with an ego bursting out your ass. Appreciate the kind words. Our product is really good. I know we can make it better by going electricity but its not so easy for our circumstances. So just thought getting some advice on regulation with the gas. Maybe george sees this. Maybe he doesn't. But if not I will just carry on playing around until I have it perfect
Most propane regulators are atmospheric. Here in Colorado I have noticed that can set my burner to #2 one evening and it takes 45 minutes to start producing (after foreshots) but then floats between 172-180 until the quantity of the still decreases at wich time it starts to steadily climb just like normal. Other days it shoots up in 15 and I have to chase it all over the place, and the common denominator seems to be the weather patterns. I’m just resolved to camping out and continuously monitoring it, not a bad idea anyway when working with flammable substances. I use the “downtime” to relax and sample previous batches. I always have friends and neighbors willing to “help out” I think there is probably a way and what I think you are asking is the possibility of a DC pid controller (solar/battery powered) that would regulate your gas flow? I can definitely see an off grid use for this...
Ceramic core and solid core
I just put together a pid controller by watching you, thanks
Video and audio not synced up well on this one.
A rule you should follow is never exceed 80% of your circuit. (20 Amp = 16 Amp usable)
Running a cleaning run at the moment using a pid...
What's the model number and or part number of our PID?
jimmbaty i purchased it off amazon. Its a twidec mv100-b10
Poor explanation of circuit calculates - IMHO applying some of these suggestions would result in unsafe wiring.
Hmm I assumed anyone who knows how to change breakers and wire these things up would know to adjust wire guage accorindgly....but you know what they say about assume... HEY! Guy in the back! Here's the chart! waterheatertimer.org/images/Water-heater-Wire-size-chart1000.jpg
Glad your brought up breakers. Take a look at the rating of 99% of the breakers out there (100% of breakers for residential). If you look at the detail of those devices they are rated to 80% of the breaker size. A resistive load, like a heater element, that’s pulling more than 80% of the rated amperage will overheat and become a fire hazard.
@@mikemeyer239 George has explained this in other videos, go look at his wiring a 240 volt breaker, and he said in the video that most electricians would go 125%, guess you missed that
I didn’t miss anything. Wiring by anyone other than a qualified electrician is a recipe for disaster, especially when the advise offered is inaccurate.