Merci beaucoup Monsieur pour vos formidables tutoriels, cela m'a vraiment d'avancer dans la conception d'images. Bonne continuation. Je vous souhaite une excellente journée......🎓
I don’t understand why silvereffex has control points which are circular, when you can just use a brush tool for more control over the area you are affecting.
The Brush Tool is only available in Photoshop. People using Silver Efex from Lightroom or as a stand alone editor still need to use Control Points. Even in Photoshop using the Brush Tool, combining Control Points can be useful.
I have not yet watched this but I am sure it will teach me a lot about Silver Efex where I tend to stick to the presets with only very minor tweaks. Your videos are very practical and easy to follow Robin.
Thanks for the feedback. If you are just using presets, this is a definite departure. I try to show everything which is why it's longer than usual. I hope you enjoy it.
Thank you so much. I'm pleased that you like my style. I know it's not to everyone's taste but I don't mind. I just want it to be effective at passing on information.
Excellent. I have had the nik fx set for years but never used it to it's full potential. Thanks for this tutorial Robin, it's given me a better overview of some of the procedures I should be looking at to enhance my images.
Great to hear this was helpful. The Nik tools are great and you can do a lot with them. I don't know if you have seen it but I created a Nik playlist of videos. There are a few "hidden" secrets in there.
Very Useful.....My next step is try this on portraits...I'm guessing this would work as good but with different tweaks. Will review your other tutorial also.
Good stuff Robin, useful. While I knew most of the features of SE Pro that you used, it was interesting and helpful to see the whole edit step-by-step and - especially - the thinking/purpose behind each step. More please...
great tutorial robin. even tough i've read your book on se pro i found this very informative. interesting how you do a lot of your tweaking in lightroom as if you where preparing a color shot, not b&w. this is where the magic really happens. by the way i'm a big fan and have read all your books. thanks for keeping it simple!
Thanks Neal, that's much appreciated. And you're quite right. The magic starts when preparing the colour shot rather than being confined to the conversion processing.
Excellent .. I have been using Silver Efex since it became a free download from Google and rate it superb for my needs. I have watched quite a few on your tutorials on using the Efex package and find your Silver Efex guide extremely helpful. This one is no exception.. Thank you very much Robin. Look forward to watching your uploads to come... You are in my Fav Subscription list in any case :-)
Super tuto ! i liked the process in lightroom for the sky. dodge and burn would be better with luminosity masks whiting rocks while keeping cracks blacks,... I think but result is nice ! best regards marc
Thanks. Yes, I could have done much more with Luminosity Masking but the tutorial was getting a little long and I also don't want to overload people with too many techniques.
Really enjoyed this…excellent tutorial and thank you. I hope I am wrong about my only complaint but, I think that the horizon is crooked. Maybe my eyes. 🤷
The horizon in the image is accurate. The landscape does slope off to the right. If you look at the trig point it's vertical. That's the only true reference in the image that we know will be level (unless the rocks have moved). I'm glad you liked the video.
Hi, your black and white tutorials are beautiful, but they are about converting from color raw ... can your techniques be adapted to black and white raw from BW film scans? Thanks
Apologies for coming at this late again, but hopefully you'll catch my question, Robin. This is astonishing work, but I wonder how much of that astounding contrast and texture could you actually see in the scene before you took the original picture, versus how much did you know you could (and would need to) create in post-processing? I suppose what I am asking is how much of the original flatness was due to the weather, and how much to the way RAW files are captured. Does that make sense?
The weather was the main cause of the problem and almost always is. I could see the problem immediately in the histogram but I knew from previous experiments that I could improve the image. The nice thing about black and white is that it allows you to add back much more contrast than colour. If I tried something similar in colour the image would look quite false.
Another gem from you Robin, thank you! A quick question: i use on1 photoraw 2020, send tiff to sep, click save in bottom right and return to on1. It strikes me that the image looks different (worse) back in on1 than it did in sep, eg grain and structure looks horribly exaggerated. If it’s consistent (I’m trialling sep) i could underdo grain etc in sep to compensate, but I wonder if you’ve experienced/heard of this and can offer any advice?
This is a tricky one to answer as there are a lot of variables. Generally speaking, I find some of the Nik adjustments seem to exaggerate any noise present in the images. The worst offenders appear to be Silver Efex Pro and some of the filters in Color Efex. When you apply strong adjustments you get this effect. I've also found some of the adjustments cause this more than others, for example, the Structure sliders in Silver Efex. I'm not sure the problem is Nik though. I've noticed over recent years that the images from RAW converters are becoming very detailed and sharp when compared with say 5 or 6 years back. I doubt the processing routines in Nik have changed but because of the RAW processing improvements, they are more noticeable. Here are a few things to try: 1. Ensure you've used denoise before going to SEP for processing. 2. If you use the Structure sliders try applying negative fine structure. 3. Add fine but soft grain to the image. As a final point, does the problem really matter? If you are going to show the images on the internet you will reduce their size and the effect is hidden. If you're going to print the images, unless the problem is really exaggerated, you probably won;t notice it in the print.
Thank you so much for your comprehensive and helpful reply Robin. I really appreciate it. I agree that the fundamental question is ‘does it matter?’, but I always like to know why something is happening so I can get some degree of control over the process. Your comments have given me that. 👍
There's no HDR used. The point of the video is to show how you can dramatically change a flat grey image using Silver Efex. The result may not be to your tast in which case don;t make it as strong.
As always Robin, a first class tutorial. Thank you for sharing your wealth of knowledge.
My pleasure! Thank you
That is awesome, Robin. Even though your software version is now old, it is still all very relevant and useful. Thank you.
Glad it was helpful. Thanks
Merci beaucoup Monsieur pour vos formidables tutoriels, cela m'a vraiment d'avancer dans la conception d'images. Bonne continuation. Je vous souhaite une excellente journée......🎓
Merci beaucoup. C'est agréable pour moi de pouvoir vous aider avec votre photographie.
Recently came across your great tutorial. Thank you for the very instructional tutorial and making it easy to follow. Much appreciated.
You're very welcome! Great to know you like it.
Great video, I've found new hidden depths to my software and improved my images seven-fold.
Thank you. That's great to hear.
I don’t understand why silvereffex has control points which are circular, when you can just use a brush tool for more control over the area you are affecting.
The Brush Tool is only available in Photoshop. People using Silver Efex from Lightroom or as a stand alone editor still need to use Control Points. Even in Photoshop using the Brush Tool, combining Control Points can be useful.
Superb Robin. very glad i found your channel. Easy to follow and stunning results. Bravo!
Thanks. I hope you enjoy more of my videos.
Thank you - one of the most helpful processing videos I have seen... and one of the first of yours I've watched - so definitely subscribing.
Thank you very much.
I have not yet watched this but I am sure it will teach me a lot about Silver Efex where I tend to stick to the presets with only very minor tweaks. Your videos are very practical and easy to follow Robin.
Thanks for the feedback. If you are just using presets, this is a definite departure. I try to show everything which is why it's longer than usual. I hope you enjoy it.
Your videos are great. Very clear and informative.
Thank you
Excellent tutorial, as per usual. You have a knack for teaching than many others who post tutorials can only envy.
Thank you so much. I'm pleased that you like my style. I know it's not to everyone's taste but I don't mind. I just want it to be effective at passing on information.
Very nice. I learn a lot from you. Thanks for sharing this.
Thank you. That's great to hear.
Thank you Robin.
You're welcome.
Excellent. I have had the nik fx set for years but never used it to it's full potential. Thanks for this tutorial Robin, it's given me a better overview of some of the procedures I should be looking at to enhance my images.
Great to hear this was helpful. The Nik tools are great and you can do a lot with them. I don't know if you have seen it but I created a Nik playlist of videos. There are a few "hidden" secrets in there.
Robin you are a jedi master.
😇 thank you
Excelente.
Muchísimas gracias.
Es de justicia. Saludos desde León, España.
brilliant
Thank you
Dear Robin thank you,another great tutorial!Best regards!
Thank you.
Very Useful.....My next step is try this on portraits...I'm guessing this would work as good but with different tweaks. Will review your other tutorial also.
Thanks. And yes, the same ideas should work with portraits as well.
Good stuff Robin, useful. While I knew most of the features of SE Pro that you used, it was interesting and helpful to see the whole edit step-by-step and - especially - the thinking/purpose behind each step. More please...
Thanks Colin. And yes there will be more to come in future videos.
great tutorial robin. even tough i've read your book on se pro i found this very informative. interesting how you do a lot of your tweaking in lightroom as if you where preparing a color shot, not b&w. this is where the magic really happens. by the way i'm a big fan and have read all your books. thanks for keeping it simple!
Thanks Neal, that's much appreciated. And you're quite right. The magic starts when preparing the colour shot rather than being confined to the conversion processing.
Excellent .. I have been using Silver Efex since it became a free download from Google and rate it superb for my needs. I have watched quite a few on your tutorials on using the Efex package and find your Silver Efex guide extremely helpful. This one is no exception.. Thank you very much Robin. Look forward to watching your uploads to come... You are in my Fav Subscription list in any case :-)
Thank you very much for the feedback. Hopefully, I can keep showing new things and producing tutorials you find interesting.
Very nice edit this a lot of tips thank you for sharing
Thanks. I'm pleased you liked it.
This is brilliant! Thank you so much...
Thank you very much.
Super tuto ! i liked the process in lightroom for the sky.
dodge and burn would be better with luminosity masks whiting rocks while keeping cracks blacks,... I think but result is nice !
best regards
marc
Thanks. Yes, I could have done much more with Luminosity Masking but the tutorial was getting a little long and I also don't want to overload people with too many techniques.
Really enjoyed this…excellent tutorial and thank you. I hope I am wrong about my only complaint but, I think that the horizon is crooked. Maybe my eyes. 🤷
The horizon in the image is accurate. The landscape does slope off to the right. If you look at the trig point it's vertical. That's the only true reference in the image that we know will be level (unless the rocks have moved). I'm glad you liked the video.
Hi, your black and white tutorials are beautiful, but they are about converting from color raw ... can your techniques be adapted to black and white raw from BW film scans? Thanks
Apologies for coming at this late again, but hopefully you'll catch my question, Robin. This is astonishing work, but I wonder how much of that astounding contrast and texture could you actually see in the scene before you took the original picture, versus how much did you know you could (and would need to) create in post-processing? I suppose what I am asking is how much of the original flatness was due to the weather, and how much to the way RAW files are captured. Does that make sense?
The weather was the main cause of the problem and almost always is. I could see the problem immediately in the histogram but I knew from previous experiments that I could improve the image. The nice thing about black and white is that it allows you to add back much more contrast than colour. If I tried something similar in colour the image would look quite false.
Another gem from you Robin, thank you! A quick question: i use on1 photoraw 2020, send tiff to sep, click save in bottom right and return to on1. It strikes me that the image looks different (worse) back in on1 than it did in sep, eg grain and structure looks horribly exaggerated. If it’s consistent (I’m trialling sep) i could underdo grain etc in sep to compensate, but I wonder if you’ve experienced/heard of this and can offer any advice?
This is a tricky one to answer as there are a lot of variables. Generally speaking, I find some of the Nik adjustments seem to exaggerate any noise present in the images. The worst offenders appear to be Silver Efex Pro and some of the filters in Color Efex. When you apply strong adjustments you get this effect. I've also found some of the adjustments cause this more than others, for example, the Structure sliders in Silver Efex. I'm not sure the problem is Nik though. I've noticed over recent years that the images from RAW converters are becoming very detailed and sharp when compared with say 5 or 6 years back. I doubt the processing routines in Nik have changed but because of the RAW processing improvements, they are more noticeable. Here are a few things to try:
1. Ensure you've used denoise before going to SEP for processing.
2. If you use the Structure sliders try applying negative fine structure.
3. Add fine but soft grain to the image.
As a final point, does the problem really matter? If you are going to show the images on the internet you will reduce their size and the effect is hidden. If you're going to print the images, unless the problem is really exaggerated, you probably won;t notice it in the print.
Thank you so much for your comprehensive and helpful reply Robin. I really appreciate it. I agree that the fundamental question is ‘does it matter?’, but I always like to know why something is happening so I can get some degree of control over the process. Your comments have given me that. 👍
@@jonkers2007 I totally understand. I'm very much the same.
The sky very bad. HDR no please :) :)
There's no HDR used. The point of the video is to show how you can dramatically change a flat grey image using Silver Efex. The result may not be to your tast in which case don;t make it as strong.
@@RobinWhalley ok