6:00 view of the passenger side front rotor. Judging by the grooves, if this rotor was placed on a record player, what songs are you most likely to hear on side A ? possible answers: (feel free to make your own suggestions) My Kia got no Sol Nothing's gonna stop us now I can't catch a brake Side B You give me that run down feeling I Need Ray In The Worst Kind Of Way.
Me and the fam just went out for Sunday dinner. Got full came home. Changed into comfy lounging clothes, now in bedroom relaxing in recliner watching "Tha Rainman". This is watchu call.... "Liv'n Tha Life.. aaahhhhh😎👍🏾
My Nephew's brakes would grind like that. I mentioned it to him and he was like "What? I don't hear anything"... I showed him how to do his brakes and now he is a diesel mechanic. He really has a knack for it!
I've learned that if you run a brake file or wire brush on that bracket the shims go in much easier, nocks off any rust and let's the pads go in and function better.
Seems like pneumatic needle scaler would be appropriate here in Scandinavia. Rust. Rust everywhere. Oxyacetylene torch standard solution for every nut..
As a back yard mechanic who has struggled with brake shims almost every time I’ve done brake pads. You have my sympathy. Also up here in the rust belt, we just let nature put the thread lock on for us. Cheers!
It's funny how much standard procedure changes down south. Up here in the rust belt thread locker on the caliper carrier bolts is called rust. On my own stuff I started using anti-seize on them. Also we use brake lubricant on the pad ears and shims. Not like it survives past one winter anyways.
I do the same here in Canada where the roads are liberally 'spiced' with salt only. The never-sneeze and silicone lube really helps with future service.
@@CDN_Torsten You make a good point. Interestingly I've had never-seized bolts and nuts back out on me, even when torqued correctly. For critical bolts and lug nuts, a little rust is natural locktite.
@@spelunkerd I have not experienced fastener loosening due to anti-seize application. I have always assumed that this was prevented by the micro-abrasive they put in the stuff. This helps lock the metal-on-metal surfaces while still preventing moisture/rust from travelling along the thread.
Yeah, we rarely have ice, and IF they ever prep the roads, it's just dumping sand at certain intersections. Of course if we get an inch of snow, half the state shuts down for a week. It's pretty rare to see any vehicles with major rust issues around here.
16:00 mins in when the brake cleaner ran out, followed by a shout of "Another!" and throwing it on the floor like Thor in the coffee shop. I cracked up. :)
A big thanks! and Rainman Ray is " THE MAN" ! I am not new to fixing my vehicles, but my 2017 F250 6.2L 4x4 40,000 miles, started giving misfires. Due to your excellent videos I didn't have to rely on the parts counter guy and was able to logically troubleshoot the issue. ( just wish I had your scan tools). NO MORE "Parts Cannon". I ended up cleaning corrosion dust out of coil boots and dielectric grease all the connectors, and did all 16 plugs with the help of the wobbly bits. I cleaned and checked the battery connections and cleaned throttle body as a courtesy since it was all right there... You know I have watched way too many of your vids as I found my self saying "Click" and I even think I said it over the radio at a fire call I was incident commander on when something went just right, LOL This repair led me to flush and fill with Thermostat my tired coolant..with no post fill overheat or air pockets. My truck is better because of you. THANKS AGAIN!
One of my first contracts after getting my degree in Mechanical Design Engineering required me to re-design a automobile brake system. I got a job at an automobile brake shop for 3 months to see what's really going on. I preformed a few hundred brake jobs before I was comfortable designing something that not only worked better but was completely serviceable after the fact.
This made me feel a little better about mine and my father's troubles whenever we change the brakepads on his car. It's always like the shims just refuse to let the pads in for an hour and then on the fifteenth try the pads just suddenly snick into place without any further fuss. We've tried videoing it to see what we do differently when it works, removing the whole shebang and doing the reassembly on the table. No answers, no change. I've come to the conclusion that the shims simply demand a sacrifice of time before they're mollified and let us succeed in the job.
Aftermarket shims are just slightly out of spec and if you take that into consideration you know they have to be adjusted a little to fit. If you try several times they get a little closer each time until they begrudgingly give up and go where they're supposed to. If you check and adjust the first time you save yourself a lot of time and frustration.
@@danielbutler578 That would account for the first one, but the rest of them almost literally go into place if you throw them at the brakes. It's the first one that always takes that one hour plus.
Here in WI, there is much more rest removal involved. Standard practice on my Accord is to file the rust off before putting the shims in. Brake grease applied to both sides of shim. Loved his drill mounted hub wire wheel tool.
I really like that pad spreader also, I'm just glad I don't do enough brake jobs to need one! Keep up the entertaining videos Ray, you keep reminding me why I gave up auto repair for Electronics repair.
My family and neighbors (who are like family) keep telling me I should buy a newer car. I’ve been watching your channel and noticed that most of the cars you service are mid to late models. I like my 98 as long as I can still find parts.
You see him work on newer vehicles became they are more common. On top of that most who drive older cars don't have the means to take the car to the shop when something breaks. I know a few people who treat older vehicles as throwaways. When something major goes out they're tossed to the junkyard and they buy another beater.
@@johnnysouza5601 that was the way I dealt with my first 4 or 5 cars, they all had a 1 year MOT so were legal they cost about £100 ~ £200 only 1 passed the second year so we’re sold to the junkyard for about £10 as I could drive them in, one that I remember fondly was a 2CV that finished life with a Flintstone floor . I did spend money on my motorcycles , the first one was a Norton Commando that cost £650 new, the motorcycles always passed the MOT with no repairs ever needed
Keep your vehicles in good working condition, it doesn’t matter if it is new or old. My (parents) 99 cavalier was a beast and I hope to resurrect it to become my first car. It was put out of service in 2014 due to the Cng bi fuel tank expiring and has sat in okay condition ever since
@William Duhamel >>> I don't blame you for keeping a older wheels, why you ask? Repair bills/stealership rip off fees/you can repair 98% yourself/cheap parts/Upgrade to higher long term standard...etc etc. Why do classic cars last over 25 years & modern cars last only their @12yrs & start to be broken for parts ...... their a big money pit !! Nothing else needs to be said .....
Up here in the rust belt those caliper brackets need scraped and wire wheeled before you can even think of getting new shims on because of the rust jacking under them. LOL Keep up the good work Ray! Love the channel!
i've seen the rust belt cars and it makes me think of a sitcom mom that sees a messy house and exclaims "this is why we can't have anything nice!!!!" i don't get it at all, but obviously many people live there without guns against their heads so they must like something about that.
@@i.jackanov7382 Not really, but we tolerate it because it is a nice place to live overall. I hate what it does to my vehicles, and am working on various anti-rust things, but really, I live where I do for reasons that have nothing to do with my cars.
Just watching your video while laid up with Covid. Funny my wife just bought a Kia Soul and it has dragging brakes on the passenger side. I really enjoy all of your videos. Thanks for making my day a little brighter.
Drinking my second cup of coffee and wondering why Ray isn't putting grease on the hub before putting the rotor on..... oh yeah, Florida no salt on the roads! Will wake up soon I hope!
Yeah, living here in the rust-belt, I put synthetic brake lube on the backs of the pads, the pad arms, the bracket grooves where the pads rest, and on the inside well of the rotor. But even then, I wonder how long that will last before rust inevitably takes over? 🤔🤨
I did the 4 wheel disc brakes recently on my 2010 VW Golf and used anti-seize on the cleaned wheel mating surfaces and brake bolts. Also used brake lube on the shims, pad ears and of course the slider pins. I don’t live in a summer only climate.
I would want to know why just one side had excessive wear. Had something similar with an old car of mine. It went through pads like crazy just on the one side. Turned out that after hours of investigation that this particular car had a diagonal split system and the line on the rear drum had been crimped by what looked like someone jacking it up in the wrong place.
I had a car where one front caliper would bind on. Turned out the retaining bracket wrapped around the brake hose had rusted and crushed the hose not letting the fluid back up to the master cylinder.
Thx for actually torquing lug nuts on! Just put my summer wheels back on. Three wheels way over tightened and one so loose I’m surprised I didn’t have a very bad day! I will never go back to the shop in town!
Ray, my dad taught me a long time ago that when you pump the brakes to re-seat the new pads to never push the brake pedal deeper than it normally travels. Keeps the master cylinder piston seals from getting torn. I enjoy your videos.
If pushing the brake pedal all the way down tears the seals on the master cylinder pistons, then you had a bigger problem to begin with. That would mean that you either have corrosion in the brake system or your master cylinder is wearing inside the bore. That would normally not occur unless you have water in the brake fluid.
Interesting, as I've always just pushed the pedal to floor when replacing brakes/calipers. I've done many brake jobs over the years and haven't had any master cylinder issues yet, but I'll have to look into what you're saying to see if I need to change up my procedure.
Problem is, there are SO many old wives' tales when it comes to auto repair. Whenever I've done a brake job I've always pumped the brake pedal as far as it will go, and never once had a problem. As said, it'll only "tear the seals" in the master cylinder if the MC is so internally worn it needs replacing anyway.
I was told to put a short 2x4 under the pedal so it wouldn't bottom out, but never tried it. I've been a mechanic for 25 years and never had a problem with seals
Also know will be good when you can hear noises in the recording...mics don't always do the best job of this though...before he even mentions it for us.
i have a 2011 Kia Soul with 289,000 miles. Its fun to watch you do the same job that I have done many times before. Installing the pads at an angle is the only way. Finding the same correct shims is a chore too. I use never sieze on the caliber bolts cuz of living with rusty bolts. Nice job,, thanks
I just have to get one of those air hammer impact driver attachments. Brilliant, never seen one before. I'm still using my old one driven by a linear impact tool!
it's a wonderful sight to see a mechanic of your caliber fitting calipers to that high standard of expertise and refinement hows that for blowing smoke up your NEVERMIND
I was so happy to see you suffer. I thought I was the only one that struggled with the clips on the family Kias. I don't lend tools. Not because of the financial thing, but they either a) don't come back and I have to go get them or b) they come back damaged. Either way when I want them, they aren't in the drawer when I need them.
I’m subscribed to a whole 6-7 channels. Decent way to start my day. I have to go like all the others I’ve watched, I’ve been watching them through the app on tv while I’m laid up after surgery. Have a good week.
I have found that if the outer pad wears faster than the inside pad, usually the caliper is binding or not floating back. Sticking pins or other hardware is usually the issue. If It's the other way around then it's usually a stuck piston. I did notice that when you put the inner pad on, the wear indicator on the inner pad should pull toward the pad as the rotor turns which is clockwise on the right side. That's the way I've always done to avoid it from being bent away and rendering it useless. Great video as always.👍
What's best is not to touch the reservoir at all, and rather open the bleed nipple while you are pushing the piston in. That way the blackened dirty fluid won't go up the system.
If the owner of this car had enough knowledge to top off brake fluid, they would have had enough knowledge to get the front brakes done at the appropriate time.
started your job at 8:33am had job done by 10:40am ish 2 front disc replace and new pads then a final test and wear in wow you are slick quick all while doing a TH-cam video. another happy customer Ray wins again. love the piston tool.
I used to carry mail on a rural route. We used our own cars, got paid mileage. All the mail carriers I knew said "The right rear brake wears out long before the others on this job". I would buy a set of brake shoes, fix the right rear only, then have shoes for the next right rear job. After that it was time to change both rear brakes.
Same exact thing happened to me with the brake clips. They wouldn't fit on right no matter what, and when I got the caliper installed, the wheel was locked up and wouldn't spin. I just cleaned and sanded the old clips, then it went in without a problem. Be wary when you get aftermarket parts, especially from cheap auto parts stores
As a Aircraft Machinist in the USAF I made a tool to use in my issued rivet gun for removing stripped head phillips screws. Looked similar to your store purchased. Removed hundreds of screws with the tool saved more difficult methods for extraction.
I dont think the problem of this was that someone forgot to change their braking pads. The similiar thing happened to me, when my car was parked for a few weeks, and then I needed to do a trip for 300km. My brakes rusted for those few weeks and they didnt want to let go brake disc, so after 200km of my trip I had braking pad grinding my braking disc.
Lol yeah and the dog ate your homework too.... It blows my mind that people try to bullshit experts. Yeah pads do break down, but its usually due to user error, ie over cooking the brakes, or wetting them when super hot, never cleaning or leaving it out in the weather and never checking them. That kind of shit doesnt happen. Theres zero fucking chance you wouldnt of heard and felt the brakes pulling super hard and grinding like a fucking tank especially for 200kms
@@Steve211Ucdhihifvshi lol, you can believe whatever you want, I just shared my story. They were not "pulling super hard and grinding", they just didnt let it go completly and were slightly pushing the disc, so you almost didnt feel that. The only thing I felt, when stopped at 150km of my trip, that my rear brakes (that were locked up) were a lot hotter, than my front brakes (they were okay). And no, I didnt forgot a parking break. But I had no choice just to continue my trip. And I started to hear grinding at 200-250 km of my trip, when breaking pads were gone and started grinding metal to metal (like in this video). Until then there was no strange sound at all.
@@Jakaj99 Overlooking his unusually cheerful personality, he's right. Whatever happened to your car isn't what you think it is. Letting a car sit for a couple of weeks is not going to rust your brake calipers enough to seize. "They were not "pulling super hard and grinding", they just didnt let it go completly and were slightly pushing the disc, so you almost didnt feel that." What do you think happens when they just don't let go completely? Here's what most likely happened. When you last checked your brakes they were probably so low you mistook the metal part of the brake pad for the part that stops the car. If you don't do brake inspections on a regular basis, this is a very common mistake to make. For the pads to fail just 200-250km into your trip, there would have been absolutely nothing visible left of the stopping material.
@@AT-wl9yq Then why my rear brakes, which I think were blocked, were hot, while my front brakes were cool? When I said grinding, I meant metal to metal. Few thousands km prior to that me with my friend checked rear and front brakes, we completly uninstalled them, so I had braking pads in my hand, and they were okay. I dont think we both could have mistook how brake pad should look like, while holding it in our hands. Moreover, we compared front pads to rear pads, so we would have seen, if something was wrong. Front pads I still didnt changed since then, and they still look healthy.
Turn on Super Thanks Sign in to TH-cam Studio. From the left menu, click Monetization. Select the Supers tab and follow the on-screen instructions to get started. Once you've completed all the instructions, you'll find “Super Thanks” with an on/off button in the Supers tab. Toggle on “Super Thanks.” Do this so I can show the appreciation you deserve ray! ❤️
Every time I hear my kids say something isn't fair I always tell them "whoever told you life was fair lied, if life were fair I'd have a monkey and some cotton candy". 😆
Found your channel and have bin watched many several videos and dammit I think I’m Broken! I click , gravity and copy phone rings ! Great work love the channel
General question: given the uneven wear of the driver’s side and passers side pads, could there be a problem with the fluid pressures being delivered to the calipers?
@@hannahpumpkins4359 unless there's air in the line on one side. More likely it's traction control related. The driver regularly puts their foot in it too hard in wet conditions and the traction control applies brakes to the side that spins, which checks out in this case.
Hmm yeah, was also surprised by the uneven wear. From my experience with old crusty cars that means a caliper is starting to go bad, sticking. And sticking calipers will also compress back, just not as easily. Btw, love his tools! They make a monumental difference.
In New England I put brake lube before the hardware and after the hardware to prevent rust from forming which will make the pads seize. Also many pad tabs need to be filed so they slide easily.
Man this video is crazy recent. Thank you. Great job. I am no mechanic (no paid mechanic anyway) but if they were my brakes, I would definitely clean those break pistons before forcing them back into the cylinder. Super fun to watch.
Each caliper piston is fully covered by a rubber boot. If there are no tears in the boot, then no dirt can make its way to the surface of the piston. Most pistons are also made of stainless steel so the outer highly machined/polished surfaces surfaces generally don't corrode. Lastly, when compressing the piston, you feel if the piston is sliding nicely and smoothly as you push it back into the caliper. Any roughness or snatching on the way back in, you stop and investigate the cause. No doubt Ray would have looked at each boot before he compressed the piston and also felt the smoothness of the retraction. Retired mechanic in Land Down Under.
@@bobhudson6659 I do not doubt his expertise. I am watching a lot of mechanics doing this and lots of them say to clean it off before of any burrs and road muck before pushing it in.
Quick tip to make the shims fit better, file inside the bracket where the shims go to remove the rust, they will fit better and allow the pads slide freely
No it's a standard with new Kia car sales, unless a customer waives it. Also, I'm pretty sure most new Asian cars today being sold comes with wheel locks as a standard, except Toyota because their cars mostly use steel wheels.
Changing to fresh fluid thru out and bleeding out air is a necessary step here. The one caliper extended spells trouble down the road. Replace caliper there. The heat generated already has degraded the fluid from that one wheel. The metal on metal vs pad on rotor gets it griddle-hot for cooking steaks or a dozen sunny-side eggs.
Sharing tools with other mechanics is relative. Some cars require really EXPENSIVE specialized tools to do certain repairs. Now, if you get along and like your fellow techs it makes sense for people to share tools. This only works if there is no moocher. It is like neighbors, not everyone needs to own a 25 foot ladder.
Had a guy in the body shop that wanted to borrow my 30lb. sledge hammer, I asked him how many years he's been doing body work, he said about 15, I told him, only once. He said "Look buddy" if I have to borrow someone else's tool more than 2 two times, he'll buy one for himself. He since that time came and asked me about a hunnert times to use that hammer, I kept telling him no. Was I wrong? Btw, he owned hardly any tools and what he did have were chinese knock offs.
I was next to a guy at the oil change place and he had a new looking Range Rover of some sort. He was talking on the phone the whole time he was there waiting for his car to get done. He couldn’t understand what took them more than 10 minutes. As there’s like 3 skid plates sitting on the floor…and the manager is looking through the manual trying to figure out how to reset the maintenance reminder.
@@stevewhiting556 Some people have more money than sense. They drive cars they do not 'have time' to understand any more than how the 'mobile entertainment system' works...
Set the pad clips and the pads when you have the bracket off the vehicle, makes life easier especially when working on your knees. Great content as always.
So many times I've run into quality issues on duralast brake parts. The friction material itself is fine, but for whatever reason the clips and even the tabs on the pad that ride in the clips weren't right.
9:45 - I agree with you here buddy. I never use thread l0cker on the caliper bracket bolts. As long as you get the torque right you wont need it if the factory didnt put it on. Besides, I have had some of these bond to the threads naturally. No lock required. You dont put any lube on the pad shims? Or the outside of the pad where the caliper makes contact? I was trained a long time ago to lube any moving contact parts on the brakes. Not a whole lot, just a thin coat. My dad had a 280Z which its brakes would squeel like crazy if those areas were not lubed. Tiny vibrations can create the loudest squeels or even that irritating light noise when braking.
Help me understand two questions- 1) how did the passenger side wear so much more than the drivers', if the caliper and slide pins were ok? 2) how important is it to torque the bracket bolts to spec?
Likely uneven bleed on the brakes. the shotgun side has more clamping pressure. Ray should have done a bleed to correct it and prevent it happening again. Not sure why he didn't.
@@antagonizerr Yeah, I always bleed the brakes whenever changing the whole set (all four) or any of the calipers. I've cut that corner whenever I change out either the front or rear brakes only (so long as the fluid looks decent).
Consider cleaning the brake bracket with a steel wire brush prior to reassembly. A small brush will clean the slots the brackets go into. I clean every surface I can access with a rotary brush on my drill. Also, consider applying a small coat of anti-seize to keep the rotor from sticking to the hub. Just an idea....
Hi Ray - long time viewer here - always find your videos and humor so entertaining - it's fun seeing your attitude fixing other people's mechanical disasters ;) Anyway, finally decided to subscribe. A small question was if the the front discs were so bad were the back brakes checked also? It's likely with that much worn on the front end the rear ones have almost reached end of life too. Not sure if Kia has discs or drums at the rear, but probably from the level of maintenance seen so far this probably is a moot point anyway! Cheers :)
He did take off one of the rear tires to check, and you can see disc brakes. He mentioned it while he was torqueing. And he said he checked the fourth set visually without taking the wheel off. edit: the rears could be disc-drums, a dual type that uses disc brakes for regular stopping and the drum brake for the e-brake/parking brake.
Just changed the pads on all 4 wheels of my 2015 Honda Pilot at 50K miles. Old pads were still 4 mm thick as I'm easy on the breaks, and rotors were smooth with no groves. Pads only cost me $65. Flushed out all the break fluid while I was at it. Easy job compared to my 67 Vette clutch/pressure plate/throw-out bearing I did back in "71". Never doing that again....LOL Retired and kids moved out so got the time to mess with my cars again. I'm not as fast as you Ray, but like I said...I got the time...it's kind of therapeutic. Radiator flush next.
True...I've used it to find vacuum leaks and/or as an engine starter fluid (non chlorinated type). Pretty good at cleaning brakes too..I use it when I service my travel trailer bearings.
You guys are so lucky you don't have rust problems in the south like the northeast does. I always put brake lube between those steel shims and the pad bracket to prevent "rust jacking". When that happens up here in the northeast, the pads get pinched and don't slide like they should. Hey Ray, tell your coworkers that you have the "three" time tool use rule. If they have to ask to borrow one of your tools three times, it means they need to buy their own.
For those bakes to be so different, I'll bet that car pulled like crazy when braking. Definitely something is wrong with the hydraulic system in this car...
The worst Carnage on brakes I've ever experienced was a Dodge Intrepid. The owner stated the brakes we're making noise and pulling to the right. I didn't even have to test drive. Upon inspection through the wheel I saw ribs on the rotor! It was down to the calipers eating away at the rotor. I have no idea how the car even rolled! I'm always amazed and how clean the cars are in Florida. Montana cars are crusty and most bolts and the pins are rusted and seized. They're not near as bad as the Northeast in South Main Auto territory though. Thanks for the video and have yourself a good day!
I'm thoroughly confused as to how one side can be completely through the material and into the backing material and the other side still has half the friction material remaining. But then again I'm also confused how anybody can listen to the taddler long enough to wear completely through it and start eating into backing material without saying "hey my brakes are screaming at me I think I need some brake pads".
Shims are made of flexible metal and packed loosely with the brake pads. They then get bounced around a lot. Being bent out of perfect shape is not unusual; giving them credit for being in perfect shape after being stamped and formed at the plant. I always put a little never-seize on those screws that hold the rotor down so the threads will not rust and be hard to take out later. If you do not have one of those tools made specifically to compress the piston on the caliper you can also use a C-clamp. Not as easy but it works. You can put one of the old pads on the top of the piston to save effort or run it down to the bottom of the piston and push it back into the bottom of the cylinder.
It has always been confusing to me why customers choose to put AutoZone in advance Auto parts rotors on the vehicle while none of them are worth shit. They sell the worst low-grade trash China shit on the market.
@@dashcam5398 well you're somewhat right because brembo and wilwood brake products are not made in China. But you also have to remember that different companies May produce their products in China but under different specifications and quality. So if you have one company having their brake products made in China another may have their brakes made in China also but on the different specifications and product quality this is true with just about everything that's made in China it doesn't mean that they're all exactly the same that's delusional thinking and it's not how the industry works. Also EBC breaks are made in the UK. I could go on but I'm getting tired
Nice little brake job. Living here in the rust belt many times none of those bolts come out easily. Back when I was doing all my own maintenance on my vehicles and my daughters if it had threads it got nickle never sieze, including the wheel mounting surfaces and lug bolts. If I had worked on it previously you got silver glaze on yourself.
I have had trouble with autozone brake pad. I always touch the ears with a fiber pad on a die grinder to clean them up and always grease the clips to prevent rust
When I have tires put on my freightliner hub piloted wheels. Torque is 450 ft. lbs. Have to go back between 50 to 100 miles and get retorqued again. They use a torque stick made just for that with a breaker bar that snap at right torque.
My issue is almost the exact opposite. It makes a similar, but not quite as aggressive sound when I'm NOT using the brakes, and the noise stops when any pressure at all is applied to the pedal. Really makes me wonder if it's the caliper, but haven't been able to test it. Brakes overall still work great. I did a visual to see if there's anything obvious, but being partially disabled and broke makes it's difficult to get anything done. Really sucks not being to work on your own vehicles after years of doing so. Also, your struggle with the shims was real, lol. Thanks for the videos, really been enjoying them so far!
Probably the little wear indicators, fitted to the inside pad only. These are designed to rub on the disc when the pads are getting thin. If you watch the video carefully you can just see the indicator on the bottom of the inside new disc pad, they can squeak when the brakes are not applied because they need the pad to be able to vibrate to make the noise. A small point to note is that KIA discs have an 8mm thread in the disc under those small counter sunk screws, these are to jack off tight discs.
Last brake job I put some anti-seize on my phillips screws that hold the rotor on. Figured it couldn't hurt and less likely to break the head off. Definitely going to find one of those air hammer attachments though.
I ran into an issue with the pad hardware on my dodge. The aftermarket pad hardware was different than OEM which ended up causing excessive brake rattle that made it sound like the front of the car was going to fall apart when going down bumpy roads. Switched back to OEM hardware resolved the issue.
I recently did a Kia soul front brake job 2018 model it had these weird kind of U-shaped clips that went into each side of the brake pad before you put on the caliper. Of course I forgot to put them on including putting the wheel on first. This car did not have that particular part that Ray just did. Interesting
I've noticed on duralast brake pads(and other cheap pads)that sometimes there is a little slag on the ears of the pad which keeps them from just going in the clips easy.
I have never seen this amazing hollow rust cleaning tool you use on the studs. Only the ScotchBrite Roloc system. Can you give me a hint where to find/purchase it? Thanks in advance and have a fine day.
I LOVE that brake caliper tool. Got it through your Amazon link some months back. Used it on my front calipers but the rears had to use large c clamp with old pad because the tool didn't fit. I made a mistake though. I used anti seize on slide pins... Learned I was doing it wrong! Bought correct grease and will pull brake calipers off again and correct this. Not even 100 miles really so this will be fine. No damage should of occurred I think. Used Duralast Elites. Will see how they are but so far I'm happy. Used old rotors as they were ok. Yeah I know... I didn't get new ones but whatever it didn't have warping and had plenty more life left. Next time around though I'm getting new rotors and pads. Trying those orange glove you have as well and yeah they work great vs my old box of gloves. Had a difficult time with my new shims also. New shims were a bit cheaper made over original...
Up north it's not uncommon that I need a needle scaler and then abrasive disc to clean the hub to bare metal. I'm not a big fan of those pad spreaders, it's easy to exert a lot of force and not really feel the piston sticking the in the bore but I suppose once you're accustomed to using them it's less of an issue.
My son ran his brakes (2009 Honda Accord) through the pad and was using the caliper to stop. No joke, the inner pad was gone completely (the outer pad just had the backing plate left), and the caliper was ground down about 1/8" - 1/4". It looked like someone had taken a power sander to half of the facing side (the caliper was slightly turned as it pushed against the rotor).
Had the very same problem fitting brake pads to oversized shims on the very first brake job I did. Also had to readjust the shims positions as they were grinding on rotor even after several kilometers. Ferodo was the maker of the pads...
I'm glad Ray torque the bolts on the wheels, I've seen too often tire places run a impact gun on them too far and tight. Myself, I'd have torqued the caliper brackets bolts.
@@tmet01 I agree on that, but a paying customer and not my own stuff, cross all T's and dot all I's in liability. Just my .02, I'm sure they won't loosen, but in the world of happenstance and the law of averages....wouldn't have taken an extra minute or two.
6:00 view of the passenger side front rotor.
Judging by the grooves, if this rotor was placed on a record player, what songs are you most likely to hear on side A ?
possible answers: (feel free to make your own suggestions)
My Kia got no Sol
Nothing's gonna stop us now
I can't catch a brake
Side B
You give me that run down feeling
I Need Ray In The Worst Kind Of Way.
'O sole mio
Shake Rattle and Roll (Bill Hailey and the Comets)
I hear you knocking (Dave Edmunds)
Don't disturb this groove (The System)
45 RPM, not the more fancy modern 72. :P
They see me rollin' I'm grindin'
"Aint no stopping us now"
Me and the fam just went out for Sunday dinner. Got full came home. Changed into comfy lounging clothes, now in bedroom relaxing in recliner watching "Tha Rainman".
This is watchu call.... "Liv'n Tha Life.. aaahhhhh😎👍🏾
Since your videos have gone viral, the front office has gotten much quicker at answering the phone😂👍🏻🌵
My Nephew's brakes would grind like that. I mentioned it to him and he was like "What? I don't hear anything"...
I showed him how to do his brakes and now he is a diesel mechanic. He really has a knack for it!
I've learned that if you run a brake file or wire brush on that bracket the shims go in much easier, nocks off any rust and let's the pads go in and function better.
Agreed, i sand blast or sand paper mine .
Seems like pneumatic needle scaler would be appropriate here in Scandinavia. Rust. Rust everywhere. Oxyacetylene torch standard solution for every nut..
@@mzzj2 waaaaaaaak! true!
Woah - brake cleaner fluid being used to actually clean brakes...I think that's a first for the channel! 🙂
he uses that shit on EVERYTHING, including brakes, he just hasnt done brakes in a while
@@bradhaines3142 But does Ray use it on his BBQ grill?
@@josepherhardt164 NAPA know how. lol
@@bradhaines3142 Great observation! That's actually funny!
That's a first for any channel!
As a back yard mechanic who has struggled with brake shims almost every time I’ve done brake pads. You have my sympathy. Also up here in the rust belt, we just let nature put the thread lock on for us. Cheers!
Rust…Loctite’s greatest competitor.
It's funny how much standard procedure changes down south. Up here in the rust belt thread locker on the caliper carrier bolts is called rust. On my own stuff I started using anti-seize on them. Also we use brake lubricant on the pad ears and shims. Not like it survives past one winter anyways.
I do the same here in Canada where the roads are liberally 'spiced' with salt only. The never-sneeze and silicone lube really helps with future service.
@@CDN_Torsten You make a good point. Interestingly I've had never-seized bolts and nuts back out on me, even when torqued correctly. For critical bolts and lug nuts, a little rust is natural locktite.
Here in the Midwest we put anti seize on them as well.
@@spelunkerd I have not experienced fastener loosening due to anti-seize application. I have always assumed that this was prevented by the micro-abrasive they put in the stuff. This helps lock the metal-on-metal surfaces while still preventing moisture/rust from travelling along the thread.
Yeah, we rarely have ice, and IF they ever prep the roads, it's just dumping sand at certain intersections. Of course if we get an inch of snow, half the state shuts down for a week. It's pretty rare to see any vehicles with major rust issues around here.
16:00 mins in when the brake cleaner ran out, followed by a shout of "Another!" and throwing it on the floor like Thor in the coffee shop. I cracked up. :)
A big thanks! and Rainman Ray is " THE MAN" ! I am not new to fixing my vehicles, but my 2017 F250 6.2L 4x4 40,000 miles, started giving misfires. Due to your excellent videos I didn't have to rely on the parts counter guy and was able to logically troubleshoot the issue. ( just wish I had your scan tools). NO MORE "Parts Cannon". I ended up cleaning corrosion dust out of coil boots and dielectric grease all the connectors, and did all 16 plugs with the help of the wobbly bits. I cleaned and checked the battery connections and cleaned throttle body as a courtesy since it was all right there... You know I have watched way too many of your vids as I found my self saying "Click" and I even think I said it over the radio at a fire call I was incident commander on when something went just right, LOL This repair led me to flush and fill with Thermostat my tired coolant..with no post fill overheat or air pockets. My truck is better because of you. THANKS AGAIN!
In illinois every other brake job involves heating up the bracket to get the slide pins out must be nice one of these days I'll live in sunny Florida
I always check the fluid level in the master cylinder before I wrap up. Often just to wipe up excess fluid that pushed out.
One of my first contracts after getting my degree in Mechanical Design Engineering required me to re-design a automobile brake system. I got a job at an automobile brake shop for 3 months to see what's really going on. I preformed a few hundred brake jobs before I was comfortable designing something that not only worked better but was completely serviceable after the fact.
who's brakes did you design?
This is either genuine or a troll. Hahaha
My '98 Toyota Tacoma had the best brake system for easy pad changes.
@@philiprowe2147 Who’s, or “whose.” Spelling please.
You "preformed" a few hundred brake jobs?
Hope you don't write engineering manuals.
This made me feel a little better about mine and my father's troubles whenever we change the brakepads on his car.
It's always like the shims just refuse to let the pads in for an hour and then on the fifteenth try the pads just suddenly snick into place without any further fuss.
We've tried videoing it to see what we do differently when it works, removing the whole shebang and doing the reassembly on the table. No answers, no change.
I've come to the conclusion that the shims simply demand a sacrifice of time before they're mollified and let us succeed in the job.
Shims have been annoying at times for me.
Aftermarket shims are just slightly out of spec and if you take that into consideration you know they have to be adjusted a little to fit. If you try several times they get a little closer each time until they begrudgingly give up and go where they're supposed to. If you check and adjust the first time you save yourself a lot of time and frustration.
I sometimes think they manufacture them awkward just to piss us off hah, shims are the bain of brake replacement. They never fit first time round!
@@danielbutler578 That would account for the first one, but the rest of them almost literally go into place if you throw them at the brakes. It's the first one that always takes that one hour plus.
Here in WI, there is much more rest removal involved. Standard practice on my Accord is to file the rust off before putting the shims in. Brake grease applied to both sides of shim. Loved his drill mounted hub wire wheel tool.
I really like that pad spreader also, I'm just glad I don't do enough brake jobs to need one! Keep up the entertaining videos Ray, you keep reminding me why I gave up auto repair for Electronics repair.
They can be a pain to use. Sometimes quicker to do it with pliers or the hand screw type.
So frying pan into the fire then?
Open the bead valve and use a prybar before disassemble
A C-clamp and an old pad has worked for me.
@@jeffreydove821 That is what I use. Been doing it for years, but a pad spreader would make the job quicker.
Watching brakes being done in the south. You have it so easy. Thanks for the vid.
My family and neighbors (who are like family) keep telling me I should buy a newer car. I’ve been watching your channel and noticed that most of the cars you service are mid to late models. I like my 98 as long as I can still find parts.
Just stack oem parts.
You see him work on newer vehicles became they are more common. On top of that most who drive older cars don't have the means to take the car to the shop when something breaks. I know a few people who treat older vehicles as throwaways. When something major goes out they're tossed to the junkyard and they buy another beater.
@@johnnysouza5601 that was the way I dealt with my first 4 or 5 cars, they all had a 1 year MOT so were legal they cost about £100 ~ £200 only 1 passed the second year so we’re sold to the junkyard for about £10 as I could drive them in, one that I remember fondly was a 2CV that finished life with a Flintstone floor . I did spend money on my motorcycles , the first one was a Norton Commando that cost £650 new, the motorcycles always passed the MOT with no repairs ever needed
Keep your vehicles in good working condition, it doesn’t matter if it is new or old.
My (parents) 99 cavalier was a beast and I hope to resurrect it to become my first car. It was put out of service in 2014 due to the Cng bi fuel tank expiring and has sat in okay condition ever since
@William Duhamel >>> I don't blame you for keeping a older wheels, why you ask? Repair bills/stealership rip off fees/you can repair 98% yourself/cheap parts/Upgrade to higher long term standard...etc etc. Why do classic cars last over 25 years & modern cars last only their @12yrs & start to be broken for parts ...... their a big money pit !! Nothing else needs to be said .....
Star pattern all lug nuts twice! And double check your wrench to see if it is still at the torque number.
Tim, yes awesome tips!
Especially re-checking your torque wrench as I find it at times can spin on you giving you a different torque spec
Up here in the rust belt those caliper brackets need scraped and wire wheeled before you can even think of getting new shims on because of the rust jacking under them. LOL Keep up the good work Ray! Love the channel!
i've seen the rust belt cars and it makes me think of a sitcom mom that sees a messy house and exclaims "this is why we can't have anything nice!!!!" i don't get it at all, but obviously many people live there without guns against their heads so they must like something about that.
@@i.jackanov7382 Not really, but we tolerate it because it is a nice place to live overall. I hate what it does to my vehicles, and am working on various anti-rust things, but really, I live where I do for reasons that have nothing to do with my cars.
Just watching your video while laid up with Covid. Funny my wife just bought a Kia Soul and it has dragging brakes on the passenger side. I really enjoy all of your videos. Thanks for making my day a little brighter.
Drinking my second cup of coffee and wondering why Ray isn't putting grease on the hub before putting the rotor on..... oh yeah, Florida no salt on the roads! Will wake up soon I hope!
and no lube on brake pad backing plate ears?
@@acky91 we don't need to do that here.
Yeah, living here in the rust-belt, I put synthetic brake lube on the backs of the pads, the pad arms, the bracket grooves where the pads rest, and on the inside well of the rotor. But even then, I wonder how long that will last before rust inevitably takes over? 🤔🤨
@@papi-champoo6033 the lube helps the brake pads move easier, doesn't matter where you live
I did the 4 wheel disc brakes recently on my 2010 VW Golf and used anti-seize on the cleaned wheel mating surfaces and brake bolts. Also used brake lube on the shims, pad ears and of course the slider pins. I don’t live in a summer only climate.
I would want to know why just one side had excessive wear. Had something similar with an old car of mine. It went through pads like crazy just on the one side. Turned out that after hours of investigation that this particular car had a diagonal split system and the line on the rear drum had been crimped by what looked like someone jacking it up in the wrong place.
Potentially a collapsed rubber brake line. It'll let fluid into the caliper, but not out.
I had a car where one front caliper would bind on. Turned out the retaining bracket wrapped around the brake hose had rusted and crushed the hose not letting the fluid back up to the master cylinder.
Yeah, there is definitely something else not right. No other reason for that much wear on only one side.
Agree. I'd probably really want to put a set of calipers on that car besides new pads. Most likely a sticky caliper not retracting properly.
I was just about to ask this same question.
Thx for actually torquing lug nuts on! Just put my summer wheels back on. Three wheels way over tightened and one so loose I’m surprised I didn’t have a very bad day! I will never go back to the shop in town!
Ray, my dad taught me a long time ago that when you pump the brakes to re-seat the new pads to never push the brake pedal deeper than it normally travels. Keeps the master cylinder piston seals from getting torn. I enjoy your videos.
If pushing the brake pedal all the way down tears the seals on the master cylinder pistons, then you had a bigger problem to begin with. That would mean that you either have corrosion in the brake system or your master cylinder is wearing inside the bore. That would normally not occur unless you have water in the brake fluid.
Interesting, as I've always just pushed the pedal to floor when replacing brakes/calipers. I've done many brake jobs over the years and haven't had any master cylinder issues yet, but I'll have to look into what you're saying to see if I need to change up my procedure.
Problem is, there are SO many old wives' tales when it comes to auto repair. Whenever I've done a brake job I've always pumped the brake pedal as far as it will go, and never once had a problem. As said, it'll only "tear the seals" in the master cylinder if the MC is so internally worn it needs replacing anyway.
For a second I thought the internet police were coming to get you, Ray!
I was told to put a short 2x4 under the pedal so it wouldn't bottom out, but never tried it. I've been a mechanic for 25 years and never had a problem with seals
You're da'man Rainman, an everyman that tries to help and is appreciated by many of us, piss on the haters, keep going bro.
You know it's going to be a good video when Ray doesn't even leave the parking lot.
There's gunna be LOTS of REEEEEE!!!
Also know will be good when you can hear noises in the recording...mics don't always do the best job of this though...before he even mentions it for us.
You right I hate you bur you right I hate that you right but Damm you right and that makes you alright 👍
@@the_mancavewithjacob Not having a stroke are you? :P
i have a 2011 Kia Soul with 289,000 miles. Its fun to watch you do the same job that I have done many times before. Installing the pads at an angle is the only way. Finding the same correct shims is a chore too. I use never sieze on the caliber bolts cuz of living with rusty bolts. Nice job,, thanks
I just have to get one of those air hammer impact driver attachments. Brilliant, never seen one before. I'm still using my old one driven by a linear impact tool!
Me too, def gonna have to test if I can just use my impact hammer on my manual one first though
@@Onewheelordeal My old manual impact driver is completely worn out. It's even starting to mushroom at the top 😲
Mayhew makes one with a 3/8 and 1/2 end for sockets, and a spot you can turn with a wrench, works great for bolts or screws
Wish I wouldn't have bout my impact driver my snap on air hammer needs one in it's life
Mustie1 uses this same tool and he calls it the 'shake and break"
it's a wonderful sight to see a mechanic of your caliber fitting calipers to that high standard of expertise and refinement hows that for blowing smoke up your NEVERMIND
I was so happy to see you suffer. I thought I was the only one that struggled with the clips on the family Kias.
I don't lend tools. Not because of the financial thing, but they either a) don't come back and I have to go get them or b) they come back damaged. Either way when I want them, they aren't in the drawer when I need them.
To be precise,yip...
I’m subscribed to a whole 6-7 channels. Decent way to start my day. I have to go like all the others I’ve watched, I’ve been watching them through the app on tv while I’m laid up after surgery. Have a good week.
In past brake jobs, I've had to put the new pads on a grind stone to shorten the nubs, so they will fit in the bracket. Poor aftermarket specs.
I have found that if the outer pad wears faster than the inside pad, usually the caliper is binding or not floating back. Sticking pins or other hardware is usually the issue. If It's the other way around then it's usually a stuck piston. I did notice that when you put the inner pad on, the wear indicator on the inner pad should pull toward the pad as the rotor turns which is clockwise on the right side. That's the way I've always done to avoid it from being bent away and rendering it useless. Great video as always.👍
Out of interest do you check the brake reservoir before pushing in the caliper piston, as someone may have toped it up?
What's best is not to touch the reservoir at all, and rather open the bleed nipple while you are pushing the piston in. That way the blackened dirty fluid won't go up the system.
If the owner of this car had enough knowledge to top off brake fluid, they would have had enough knowledge to get the front brakes done at the appropriate time.
Unless you know how brakes work, you might know that when the low reservoir light comes on it the could be your friction linings worn out.
started your job at 8:33am had job done by 10:40am ish 2 front disc replace and new pads then a final test and wear in wow you are slick quick all while doing a TH-cam video. another happy customer Ray wins again. love the piston tool.
Two questions.
A: why do only one caliper pins have O rings?
B: what causes the pads to wear so different?
Thanks I love the videos!
The bottom pin has rubber as an anti-vibration mechanism. Reasons for uneven wear could be stuck slide pins or piston in caliper is seized up.
@@imhooks or warped/bent disk from overheating
I used to carry mail on a rural route. We used our own cars, got paid mileage. All the mail carriers I knew said "The right rear brake wears out long before the others on this job". I would buy a set of brake shoes, fix the right rear only, then have shoes for the next right rear job. After that it was time to change both rear brakes.
Same exact thing happened to me with the brake clips. They wouldn't fit on right no matter what, and when I got the caliper installed, the wheel was locked up and wouldn't spin. I just cleaned and sanded the old clips, then it went in without a problem. Be wary when you get aftermarket parts, especially from cheap auto parts stores
As a Aircraft Machinist in the USAF I made a tool to use in my issued rivet gun for removing stripped head phillips screws. Looked similar to your store purchased. Removed hundreds of screws with the tool saved more difficult methods for extraction.
I dont think the problem of this was that someone forgot to change their braking pads. The similiar thing happened to me, when my car was parked for a few weeks, and then I needed to do a trip for 300km. My brakes rusted for those few weeks and they didnt want to let go brake disc, so after 200km of my trip I had braking pad grinding my braking disc.
Lol yeah and the dog ate your homework too....
It blows my mind that people try to bullshit experts. Yeah pads do break down, but its usually due to user error, ie over cooking the brakes, or wetting them when super hot, never cleaning or leaving it out in the weather and never checking them. That kind of shit doesnt happen. Theres zero fucking chance you wouldnt of heard and felt the brakes pulling super hard and grinding like a fucking tank especially for 200kms
@@Steve211Ucdhihifvshi lol, you can believe whatever you want, I just shared my story. They were not "pulling super hard and grinding", they just didnt let it go completly and were slightly pushing the disc, so you almost didnt feel that. The only thing I felt, when stopped at 150km of my trip, that my rear brakes (that were locked up) were a lot hotter, than my front brakes (they were okay). And no, I didnt forgot a parking break. But I had no choice just to continue my trip. And I started to hear grinding at 200-250 km of my trip, when breaking pads were gone and started grinding metal to metal (like in this video). Until then there was no strange sound at all.
@@Jakaj99 Overlooking his unusually cheerful personality, he's right. Whatever happened to your car isn't what you think it is. Letting a car sit for a couple of weeks is not going to rust your brake calipers enough to seize.
"They were not "pulling super hard and grinding", they just didnt let it go completly and were slightly pushing the disc, so you almost didnt feel that."
What do you think happens when they just don't let go completely?
Here's what most likely happened. When you last checked your brakes they were probably so low you mistook the metal part of the brake pad for the part that stops the car. If you don't do brake inspections on a regular basis, this is a very common mistake to make. For the pads to fail just 200-250km into your trip, there would have been absolutely nothing visible left of the stopping material.
@@AT-wl9yq Then why my rear brakes, which I think were blocked, were hot, while my front brakes were cool?
When I said grinding, I meant metal to metal.
Few thousands km prior to that me with my friend checked rear and front brakes, we completly uninstalled them, so I had braking pads in my hand, and they were okay. I dont think we both could have mistook how brake pad should look like, while holding it in our hands. Moreover, we compared front pads to rear pads, so we would have seen, if something was wrong. Front pads I still didnt changed since then, and they still look healthy.
Turn on Super Thanks
Sign in to TH-cam Studio.
From the left menu, click Monetization.
Select the Supers tab and follow the on-screen instructions to get started.
Once you've completed all the instructions, you'll find “Super Thanks” with an on/off button in the Supers tab. Toggle on “Super Thanks.”
Do this so I can show the appreciation you deserve ray! ❤️
Every time I hear my kids say something isn't fair I always tell them "whoever told you life was fair lied, if life were fair I'd have a monkey and some cotton candy". 😆
LMAO, SO TRUE.
😂😂
Found your channel and have bin watched many several videos and dammit I think I’m Broken! I click , gravity and copy phone rings ! Great work love the channel
Im shocked Ray didnt spray the whole assembly down with brake clean Including the tire lmao
shocked! SHOCKED!!!
I used to use a C-clamp to compress the caliper piston when I saw his tool I had envy and ordered one.
use a c-clamp with a pad on the piston....works fine for my shade tree work...
General question: given the uneven wear of the driver’s side and passers side pads, could there be a problem with the fluid pressures being delivered to the calipers?
The Proportioning Valve/Metering Valve compensates for that.
@@hannahpumpkins4359 unless there's air in the line on one side. More likely it's traction control related. The driver regularly puts their foot in it too hard in wet conditions and the traction control applies brakes to the side that spins, which checks out in this case.
Hmm yeah, was also surprised by the uneven wear. From my experience with old crusty cars that means a caliper is starting to go bad, sticking. And sticking calipers will also compress back, just not as easily.
Btw, love his tools! They make a monumental difference.
In New England I put brake lube before the hardware and after the hardware to prevent rust from forming which will make the pads seize. Also many pad tabs need to be filed so they slide easily.
Watching sma were ya. I do the same here in ontario Canada
Man this video is crazy recent. Thank you. Great job. I am no mechanic (no paid mechanic anyway) but if they were my brakes, I would definitely clean those break pistons before forcing them back into the cylinder. Super fun to watch.
Each caliper piston is fully covered by a rubber boot. If there are no tears in the boot, then no dirt can make its way to the surface of the piston. Most pistons are also made of stainless steel so the outer highly machined/polished surfaces surfaces generally don't corrode. Lastly, when compressing the piston, you feel if the piston is sliding nicely and smoothly as you push it back into the caliper. Any roughness or snatching on the way back in, you stop and investigate the cause. No doubt Ray would have looked at each boot before he compressed the piston and also felt the smoothness of the retraction. Retired mechanic in Land Down Under.
@@bobhudson6659 I do not doubt his expertise. I am watching a lot of mechanics doing this and lots of them say to clean it off before of any burrs and road muck before pushing it in.
I usually load the pads and shims in the bracket before I mount it to the knuckle. You have more room to twist the pads into place.
I've watched Ray enough, and hung out with my mechanic uncles as well, to know what was wrong from the sound. Monday is now better.
It takes a real genius to know what it sounds like when a brake pad is gone.
Quick tip to make the shims fit better, file inside the bracket where the shims go to remove the rust, they will fit better and allow the pads slide freely
With the caliper piston extended so far, shouldn't you have checked the brake fluid level?
I like to think he pulled the reservoir cap off camera.
Liked the paper towel scrap in the socket to accomplish precision fit for the driver bit.
I like how Kia thinks people would want to steal their wheels
Scrappers steal anything that has a fart's worth of metal in it these days.
Someone stole the chains on a playground nearby. Even for thieves, that's very bad behavior.
@@CyberlightFG That's just not right!
No it's a standard with new Kia car sales, unless a customer waives it. Also, I'm pretty sure most new Asian cars today being sold comes with wheel locks as a standard, except Toyota because their cars mostly use steel wheels.
@@lupavo1738 none of that is true
Changing to fresh fluid thru out and bleeding out air is a necessary step here. The one caliper extended spells trouble down the road. Replace caliper there. The heat generated already has degraded the fluid from that one wheel. The metal on metal vs pad on rotor gets it griddle-hot for cooking steaks or a dozen sunny-side eggs.
Sharing tools with other mechanics is relative. Some cars require really EXPENSIVE specialized tools to do certain repairs. Now, if you get along and like your fellow techs it makes sense for people to share tools. This only works if there is no moocher.
It is like neighbors, not everyone needs to own a 25 foot ladder.
Had a guy in the body shop that wanted to borrow my 30lb. sledge hammer, I asked him how many years he's been doing body work, he said about 15, I told him, only once. He said "Look buddy" if I have to borrow someone else's tool more than 2 two times, he'll buy one for himself. He since that time came and asked me about a hunnert times to use that hammer, I kept telling him no. Was I wrong? Btw, he owned hardly any tools and what he did have were chinese knock offs.
Unfortunately there is always one that will abuse their neighbors goodwill to the point that everyone will have to get a 25 foot ladder.
@@kenore4003 Someone needs to call out the moocher.
@@aliasfred Tool sharing has to be reciprocal or some other exchange that is mutually beneficial to the relationship.
@@aliasfred Let him borrow all the tools he wants. Just have the service writer split the ticket.
11:45 that is why i always put the shims on before installing the bracket.
Watching these videos can inform a driver of what to expect when they need professional service.
Sadly, it probably won't cause more maintenance to be done; I suspect that those who watch them already understand the concept.
@@wesgregg6451 True. Its the ones who have more money than sense who can make auto repair lucrative for the mechanics...
I was next to a guy at the oil change place and he had a new looking Range Rover of some sort. He was talking on the phone the whole time he was there waiting for his car to get done. He couldn’t understand what took them more than 10 minutes. As there’s like 3 skid plates sitting on the floor…and the manager is looking through the manual trying to figure out how to reset the maintenance reminder.
@@stevewhiting556 Some people have more money than sense. They drive cars they do not 'have time' to understand any more than how the 'mobile entertainment system' works...
👍👍👍for humor & great information. At least the customer didn’t refuse the repair. You’re smart about test driving afterwards
Interesting that the sheet metal splash shield is missing on the passenger (really bad) side. Why would one side wear so much faster than the other?
you mean the vaccum plate? helps direct air into the grooves between each side of the rotor to promote cooling
Set the pad clips and the pads when you have the bracket off the vehicle, makes life easier especially when working on your knees. Great content as always.
So many times I've run into quality issues on duralast brake parts. The friction material itself is fine, but for whatever reason the clips and even the tabs on the pad that ride in the clips weren't right.
napa
9:45 - I agree with you here buddy. I never use thread l0cker on the caliper bracket bolts. As long as you get the torque right you wont need it if the factory didnt put it on. Besides, I have had some of these bond to the threads naturally. No lock required.
You dont put any lube on the pad shims? Or the outside of the pad where the caliper makes contact? I was trained a long time ago to lube any moving contact parts on the brakes. Not a whole lot, just a thin coat. My dad had a 280Z which its brakes would squeel like crazy if those areas were not lubed. Tiny vibrations can create the loudest squeels or even that irritating light noise when braking.
Original OEM Pads are worth the cost of a (new) car. I wonder what that rotor sounds like on a record player?
would play MJ don't stop til you get enough
@@nicholasviney5975 "Won't stop till we hit a wall"
@@kizmetmars MJ off the wall
@@lupavo1738 "Oh lady, oh lady, oh lady....what do ya think of that"
Lotta commercials. TH-cam luvs 'ya! Good on you. Always fun to watch. Your channel, not the commercials.
Help me understand two questions- 1) how did the passenger side wear so much more than the drivers', if the caliper and slide pins were ok? 2) how important is it to torque the bracket bolts to spec?
Likely uneven bleed on the brakes. the shotgun side has more clamping pressure. Ray should have done a bleed to correct it and prevent it happening again. Not sure why he didn't.
@@antagonizerr Maybe some other garage " forgot" to replace the worn pads ?
@@antagonizerr Yeah, I always bleed the brakes whenever changing the whole set (all four) or any of the calipers. I've cut that corner whenever I change out either the front or rear brakes only (so long as the fluid looks decent).
My "guess" is that something caused the pads to stick onto the shims dirt or rust
@@petekovacevic3241 Which is why I always throw some anti-seize or lithium an the tabs on the pads. Again, surprised he didn't.
Consider cleaning the brake bracket with a steel wire brush prior to reassembly. A small brush will clean the slots the brackets go into. I clean every surface I can access with a rotary brush on my drill. Also, consider applying a small coat of anti-seize to keep the rotor from sticking to the hub. Just an idea....
Hi Ray - long time viewer here - always find your videos and humor so entertaining - it's fun seeing your attitude fixing other people's mechanical disasters ;) Anyway, finally decided to subscribe. A small question was if the the front discs were so bad were the back brakes checked also? It's likely with that much worn on the front end the rear ones have almost reached end of life too. Not sure if Kia has discs or drums at the rear, but probably from the level of maintenance seen so far this probably is a moot point anyway! Cheers :)
He did take off one of the rear tires to check, and you can see disc brakes.
He mentioned it while he was torqueing. And he said he checked the fourth set visually without taking the wheel off.
edit: the rears could be disc-drums, a dual type that uses disc brakes for regular stopping and the drum brake for the e-brake/parking brake.
That was excessive wear on just that set. The rest, including the other fronts, were still ok.
Just changed the pads on all 4 wheels of my 2015 Honda Pilot at 50K miles. Old pads were still 4 mm thick as I'm easy on the breaks, and rotors were smooth with no groves. Pads only cost me $65. Flushed out all the break fluid while I was at it. Easy job compared to my 67 Vette clutch/pressure plate/throw-out bearing I did back in "71". Never doing that again....LOL
Retired and kids moved out so got the time to mess with my cars again. I'm not as fast as you Ray, but like I said...I got the time...it's kind of therapeutic. Radiator flush next.
So strange to see brake clean used on brakes. 🙂
True...I've used it to find vacuum leaks and/or as an engine starter fluid (non chlorinated type). Pretty good at cleaning brakes too..I use it when I service my travel trailer bearings.
You guys are so lucky you don't have rust problems in the south like the northeast does. I always put brake lube between those steel shims and the pad bracket to prevent "rust jacking". When that happens up here in the northeast, the pads get pinched and don't slide like they should. Hey Ray, tell your coworkers that you have the "three" time tool use rule. If they have to ask to borrow one of your tools three times, it means they need to buy their own.
For those bakes to be so different, I'll bet that car pulled like crazy when braking.
Definitely something is wrong with the hydraulic system in this car...
It's common for people with a lead foot. That's the side that spins, traction control applies brakes only to the wheel that's spinning.
@@69nites That's a lot of lead footing, LOL!
@@KentuckyRanger shitty rain tires, heavy foot, and a lack of maintenance.
The worst Carnage on brakes I've ever experienced was a Dodge Intrepid. The owner stated the brakes we're making noise and pulling to the right. I didn't even have to test drive. Upon inspection through the wheel I saw ribs on the rotor! It was down to the calipers eating away at the rotor. I have no idea how the car even rolled! I'm always amazed and how clean the cars are in Florida. Montana cars are crusty and most bolts and the pins are rusted and seized. They're not near as bad as the Northeast in South Main Auto territory though. Thanks for the video and have yourself a good day!
I'm thoroughly confused as to how one side can be completely through the material and into the backing material and the other side still has half the friction material remaining. But then again I'm also confused how anybody can listen to the taddler long enough to wear completely through it and start eating into backing material without saying "hey my brakes are screaming at me I think I need some brake pads".
Could have been dirt that lodged the outer pad against the rotor enough to cause accelerated wear. It would only take a bit of sand or corrosion.
@@MonkeyJedi99 I didn't think about that.. Make sense
Shims are made of flexible metal and packed loosely with the brake pads. They then get bounced around a lot. Being bent out of perfect shape is not unusual; giving them credit for being in perfect shape after being stamped and formed at the plant.
I always put a little never-seize on those screws that hold the rotor down so the threads will not rust and be hard to take out later.
If you do not have one of those tools made specifically to compress the piston on the caliper you can also use a C-clamp. Not as easy but it works. You can put one of the old pads on the top of the piston to save effort or run it down to the bottom of the piston and push it back into the bottom of the cylinder.
It has always been confusing to me why customers choose to put AutoZone in advance Auto parts rotors on the vehicle while none of them are worth shit. They sell the worst low-grade trash China shit on the market.
ALL ROTORS ARE NOW MADE IN CHINA, CENTRIC RAYBESTOS, WAGNER , STOP TECK , JUST TO NAME A FEW WHICH ARE AMERICAN BRANDS MADE IN CHINA.
@@dashcam5398 well you're somewhat right because brembo and wilwood brake products are not made in China. But you also have to remember that different companies May produce their products in China but under different specifications and quality. So if you have one company having their brake products made in China another may have their brakes made in China also but on the different specifications and product quality this is true with just about everything that's made in China it doesn't mean that they're all exactly the same that's delusional thinking and it's not how the industry works. Also EBC breaks are made in the UK. I could go on but I'm getting tired
The way you present and personalise your content is brilliant! Best auto repair channel on YT 👍🏼
When I find split washers on the caliper brackets, I put anti seize on the bolts being up here in the rust belt
Nice little brake job. Living here in the rust belt many times none of those bolts come out easily.
Back when I was doing all my own maintenance on my vehicles and my daughters if it had threads it got nickle never sieze,
including the wheel mounting surfaces and lug bolts. If I had worked on it previously you got silver glaze on yourself.
I had the same struggle putting shims on last time I changed brake pads.
I have had trouble with autozone brake pad. I always touch the ears with a fiber pad on a die grinder to clean them up and always grease the clips to prevent rust
When I have tires put on my freightliner hub piloted wheels. Torque is 450 ft. lbs. Have to go back between 50 to 100 miles and get retorqued again. They use a torque stick made just for that with a breaker bar that snap at right torque.
I had exactly the same issue with the shims from the zone on a Kia Soul... Glad to know it wasn't just me.
I got my fair share of shim struggle. Usually on the rusted brackets. Cleaning them off helped a bit.
Never thought to hang the rotor backwards to clean the back of it. Good technique!
My issue is almost the exact opposite. It makes a similar, but not quite as aggressive sound when I'm NOT using the brakes, and the noise stops when any pressure at all is applied to the pedal. Really makes me wonder if it's the caliper, but haven't been able to test it. Brakes overall still work great. I did a visual to see if there's anything obvious, but being partially disabled and broke makes it's difficult to get anything done. Really sucks not being to work on your own vehicles after years of doing so. Also, your struggle with the shims was real, lol. Thanks for the videos, really been enjoying them so far!
Probably the little wear indicators, fitted to the inside pad only. These are designed to rub on the disc when the pads are getting thin. If you watch the video carefully you can just see the indicator on the bottom of the inside new disc pad, they can squeak when the brakes are not applied because they need the pad to be able to vibrate to make the noise. A small point to note is that KIA discs have an 8mm thread in the disc under those small counter sunk screws, these are to jack off tight discs.
@@petergreenwell7002 I'll try to remember and check that at some point. Thanks for the tip.
Last brake job I put some anti-seize on my phillips screws that hold the rotor on. Figured it couldn't hurt and less likely to break the head off. Definitely going to find one of those air hammer attachments though.
I ran into an issue with the pad hardware on my dodge. The aftermarket pad hardware was different than OEM which ended up causing excessive brake rattle that made it sound like the front of the car was going to fall apart when going down bumpy roads. Switched back to OEM hardware resolved the issue.
And the opposite has never happened ,or has it?
I recently did a Kia soul front brake job 2018 model it had these weird kind of U-shaped clips that went into each side of the brake pad before you put on the caliper. Of course I forgot to put them on including putting the wheel on first. This car did not have that particular part that Ray just did. Interesting
I've noticed on duralast brake pads(and other cheap pads)that sometimes there is a little slag on the ears of the pad which keeps them from just going in the clips easy.
I believe I would have checked the brake fluid level in the master cylinder before taking it on the road.
Hopefully it didn’t go anywhere except in the system
I have never seen this amazing hollow rust cleaning tool you use on the studs. Only the ScotchBrite Roloc system. Can you give me a hint where to find/purchase it? Thanks in advance and have a fine day.
Summit Racing has something similar that I use. Here is the part # WMR-W1212
Hope that helps you a bit
Those screws on the disc rotors are there to keep the rotors in place during assembly line production.
I LOVE that brake caliper tool. Got it through your Amazon link some months back. Used it on my front calipers but the rears had to use large c clamp with old pad because the tool didn't fit.
I made a mistake though. I used anti seize on slide pins... Learned I was doing it wrong! Bought correct grease and will pull brake calipers off again and correct this. Not even 100 miles really so this will be fine. No damage should of occurred I think.
Used Duralast Elites. Will see how they are but so far I'm happy. Used old rotors as they were ok. Yeah I know... I didn't get new ones but whatever it didn't have warping and had plenty more life left. Next time around though I'm getting new rotors and pads.
Trying those orange glove you have as well and yeah they work great vs my old box of gloves.
Had a difficult time with my new shims also. New shims were a bit cheaper made over original...
I also found the brake the other day at a Napa store. Never saw in a retail store before.
Up north it's not uncommon that I need a needle scaler and then abrasive disc to clean the hub to bare metal. I'm not a big fan of those pad spreaders, it's easy to exert a lot of force and not really feel the piston sticking the in the bore but I suppose once you're accustomed to using them it's less of an issue.
My son ran his brakes (2009 Honda Accord) through the pad and was using the caliper to stop. No joke, the inner pad was gone completely (the outer pad just had the backing plate left), and the caliper was ground down about 1/8" - 1/4". It looked like someone had taken a power sander to half of the facing side (the caliper was slightly turned as it pushed against the rotor).
Had the very same problem fitting brake pads to oversized shims on the very first brake job I did. Also had to readjust the shims positions as they were grinding on rotor even after several kilometers. Ferodo was the maker of the pads...
Those wheel hubs sound so beautifly rythmatic.
I'm glad Ray torque the bolts on the wheels, I've seen too often tire places run a impact gun on them too far and tight. Myself, I'd have torqued the caliper brackets bolts.
~80 ft/lbs.....two grunts.
@@tmet01 I agree on that, but a paying customer and not my own stuff, cross all T's and dot all I's in liability. Just my .02, I'm sure they won't loosen, but in the world of happenstance and the law of averages....wouldn't have taken an extra minute or two.