I watch hundreds of videos. Literally hundreds. But only of practical content. And make notes. So accurate grading is at hand. And this presentation is most certainly in the top . Only TWO. No bulldusting. No beating around wasting time. To-the-point. Perfectly executed. Very well done. Thank you kindly.
Great video, some good tips. One point is that I neutralise the oxalic acid with a weak ammonia solution before the final rinse to eliminate any small traces of oxalic acid remaining and doesn’t damage the wood. Great for Ipe, some ipe strips can be dark and oxalic acid helps lighten the wood and enhance the grain.
@TheChupacabra Things go both ways -- why not be willing to have 15 seconds of an ad in appreciation for something you're getting amazing value of (literally for free aside from the time element; how much is 15 seconds of your time worth? Pay them that, then).
Well done video, short and sweet, complete with notes, mix ratios, before & after samples, clear speaking presentation, and...NO LOUD ROCK'N ROLL MUSIC drowning out the video. I have literally left comments telling other creators to "put down the camera". You sir, are a true professional. Thank you.
Agreed. I power washed my fence days ago (before I found this great video) but yours was the clearest to follow and had the best pictures of the results for using oxi clean and oxalic to clean it. Glad they can be done on wet wood. Hopefully it gives me enough time for it to dry in a few days so I can paint and stain just before the next rain.
Absolute genius. I followed all of your instructions and my deck looks like it’s brand new. Yes, it was a bit of work, but the results were fantastic. Thank you for your video, it’s worth its weight in gold.
I tried out these products & process on my cedar siding on my house. Pressure washing alone only got about 80% of the mildew. After washing with the Sodium percarbonate and Oxalic Acid it cleaned off the remaining crud and left the cedar looking new. Cedar is over 45 years old! Thanks for the video!!
Glad you got good results but I'd caution anyone against trying to clean wood with just water pressure. While you might achieve an apparent improvement in appearance, on a microscopic level you're doing far more harm than good by just jamming organic growth into the wood fibers. Wood which has been previously "cleaned" with water pressure alone is a nightmare to re-clean as time goes by, because mold and algae is now very deeply embedded into the wood fibers.
@@OutsideCleaners You could always use a quat, like BAC/ DDAC instead, something like Wet and Forget etc. That way you're not risking the algae flashing back. What I've done when jetwashing concrete pathways at the backs of houses is apply a 1% solution of DDAC, commercial stuff which contains a surfactant, after using the Karcher. What I understand is that the quats forms a film on the surface and will kill any spores that come into contact soon after.
I like it that OC doesn't say to wear a respirator, spiked shoes, rubber gloves, goggles, and don't try to plug a power washer with your finger. I call this "an instructional video for adults"! Thanks!
I put several scrubbers in my Home depot cart but was not sure which head size to buy, came back to your video (bookmarked before for reference) to get an idea of what you used, saw that you used the Quickie 12" scrub brush and that's what i am going to buy, you solved my indecison, also thank you for giving the mixing instructions , i want to follow instructions from a pro, you gave very clear step by step instructions
No, no downstream. Solution is applied at the ratio mentioned, applied from a tank with a pump. Info on that here: th-cam.com/video/dSF740tX9yg/w-d-xo.html
Very well done. I have an older deck whick I have applied solid stain to over the years. If I want to clean it before applying another coat of solid stain, would I just do the percarbonate solution and skip the oxalic acid part?
Thanks for watching. For solid stains, I get better results with a solution of sodium metasilicate than sodium percarbonate. Here's a video illustrating the process on a porch ceiling but to me it's basically the same when on a deck. Just don't let it dry before rinsing... th-cam.com/video/7fnO3McnQj4/w-d-xo.html
I have a deck wash coming up how do you mix sodium pre carb? I herd it’s hard to dissolve and best to use warm water? Do you do this prior to arriving at the customer home? Also how do you apply, down stream, 12v ?
Thanks for the video and step by step for cleaning. We have a covered mahogany wrap around porch and I would like to know the best oil to apply to the decking after cleaning and prepping.
The “Best” oil is going to vary widely depending upon where you live and who you ask. I would ask a high-end painter in your geographic area what they recommend. Even then, if you ask 10 different painters, you’ll get a dozen different answers. 😆🙄
Awesome video. Simple and straightforward. One question: do I really need a power washer in step 5? Meaning can’t I just use a garden hose nozzle on the jet setting to achieve that relatively low pressure? Let’s assume I’m putting out, like, 50psi at the end of the hose. Trying to avoid buying a power washer if possible. Thanks for great videos without all the fluff!
Answer: it depends! A small-ish deck with minimal or mild algae upon it... sure. A large deck with years of thick algae baked on... probably not practical to try with a garden hose. Here's the thing: the stronger the chems, the less rinsing pressure is needed. Oxygen bleach as shown here is a pretty mild cleaning chemical, so it generally requires some rinsing oomph. If I was going to try to clean a deck with just a garden hose, I might consider use a stronger chemical to compensate for less rinsing volume/pressure. Cleaning with a stronger chemical: th-cam.com/video/zs4RBy03-6s/w-d-xo.html Hope that helps!
I read an article that stated oxalic acid can react with alkalaine cleaners whoch can cause adhesion issues. Same wirh the acid itself if not properly rinse is this true? Also, what psi are you using for the pressure whasher. Thank you
Bulk tank & air diaphragm pump, but a bucket and mop works too. Downstream injectors don't work will with oxygen bleach, as they necessarily dilute it too much.
Cons: compared to oxalic acid, bleach has more of an ability to strip the oils which make cedar so long-lasting. Also, bleach is pretty corrosive, so that nails or staples tend to rust quicker and leave rust stains. th-cam.com/video/YxKNpGqNqd8/w-d-xo.html
nice...2 questions: 1- other than brightening the wood, is oxalic acid really necessary? In the video, the wood had a nice red color prior to bleaching. 2- after this is all done and dried, do you suggest appying any protective coating, sealer, orange oil or the like? Thanks!
1) Oxalic acid "brightens" the wood by restoring its pH to something closer to its natural state. I'm told by folks in the painting industry that applying stains, paints, or sealants works best when a wood's pH is around neutral rather than way off to one side or another. While I can't personally back up that claim, I hear it consistently enough to think there's probably something to it. So, from that angle, applying oxalic acid may have a functional purpose. 2) Sealants, oils, and stains for wood decking pretty much all a come with a commitment to annual or semi-annual maintenance, which is something that *very* few homeowners seem interested in following through with. For that reason, and for that crowd, I say just clean it once and enjoy it. If you want your deck to look its best and are willing to commit to annual cleaning and touch-up, go for it.
@@OutsideCleaners totally agree on the second point. I do quite a bit of woodwork (restoration of old chairs, tables, etc) where I use Oxalic acid as a bleaching agent. It is gentler than chlorine bleach but typically removes stains, particularly those black/brown stains due to metal contact (rust). Anyhow, I will try your approach (probably minus the acid) on my deck which I never sealed and is looking a bit tired. As far as painting goes, pH neutral is best, so washing after acid treatment is important. Alkaline wood tends not to hold the paint as strong alkalis is the basis of most paint strippers.
Very helpful. Not allot of good information out there on how to clean wood properly. I’m cleaning a fence tomorrow and will be using sodium hydroxide and oxalic. Sodium percarbonate seems more environmentally friendly but feels cost prohibitive at this stage of my business. Thanks for the upload
I’d make the same choice 👍🏼 Sodium hydroxide is stronger, and more dangerous if you don’t know what you’re doing. Sodium percarbonate is sort of the “Nerf“ tool in the cleaning toolbox.
@@OutsideCleaners What's your preferred percentage/ratio for sodium hydroxide and where should homeowners buy it? And if you guys use it I guess it doesn't destroy wood the way I've read bleach does? Or is that you apply, scrub and rinse it quick enough not to do damage to the wood?
Pump sprayers will work for small areas. I usually an air diaphragm pump HOW TO: Pumps I've Used for Exterior Cleaning th-cam.com/video/dSF740tX9yg/w-d-xo.html
how do you clean the railings and spindles? I am 68 and have so many of them. is there any way to spray a solution and rinse without scrubbing each side?
Now thats a Quality Video..... Now that Im Older ~ I can tell people ( Its not that I can’t Understand ) ... I just don’t learn the way you Teach...Im gonna try that Acid stuff like U said ~ ive done 40 decks without it and I would love to see how it comes out .
Interesting video..When you are applying the cleaning solution are you applying it with a soft Wash setup?..What would the mixture be if I was to apply the cleaner with a pressure washer and Xjet?..Thanks
TH-cam.com/@hillshepardson9537 bulk tank & air diaphragm pump, but a bucket and mop works too. Downstream injectors (XJets etc) don't work well with oxygen bleach, as they necessarily dilute it too much.
Not stained. Not obvious. Thanks for your question. The dull appearance of the decking after cleaning is due to various factors such as weathering, oxidation, and the removal of natural oils and resins from the wood surface. Cleaning removes algae, surface dirt and grime etc, but it doesn't necessarily restore the wood's original color and luster. Oxalic acid revitalizes wood surfaces by chemically reacting with iron oxide (rust), tannins, and other stains that darken wood. By neutralizing these discolorations, oxalic acid restores the natural color and beauty of the wood. I personally also think that wood cleaner generally darken wood due to their pH, while acids shift the pH back the other way, closer to the wood's natural state.
@@OutsideCleaners thank you! Do you use oxalic acid on stained decks as well? I've read online it might be harmful to vegetation and I have shrubs surrounding my deck, trying to understand how environmentally safe it is.
Mahogany can be stained or sealed if desired. But that’s a commitment to maintenance every year or two, and in 13 years of doing this on Cape Cod I’ve very few homeowners who are committed enough to keep up with the maintenance it takes. I’ve also been less and less impressed with the new “high tech” stains and sealants on the market these last several years. For these reasons, I suggest that rule #1 is to just keep the deck clean, if nothing else.
Answer: I don’t. In my area, I encounter extraordinarily few homeowners who are willing to put in the annual (yes annual) maintenance required after sealing or oiling a deck. Doing it once and then leaving it is just pissing money away. So, I almost always advise that the best thing to do is just keep it clean and let it weather to a silver or gray appearance. Since that’s what everyone in my area seems to want their deck to look like, and that’s what they often even stain wood to appear like, that seems to be the best advice given the situation. It seems to me that different areas of the country have different favorite products to seal or stain. If that’s the route that customers go. I do think that variations in weather and climate play a tremendous role in what works and what doesn’t. So, my best advice is to ask someone in your local area .
Just started a small pressure washing business of my own. Used to work beside a self made millionaire who started with pressure washing and eventually moved on to epoxy and modified cement overlays. Just want to say that your technique for pressure is flawless. The "flicking" motion does wonders for preventing damage. Do you use your pressure washer to apply the chemical cleaner? Im assuming downstream and if so what chemical are you using? I used to get something called New Again for asphalt shingles and wood, but don't know what is was made of, can't find it, and have never used bleach directly on wood. Any tips? Great job. I'll be looking into oxalic acid as well. The product i mentioned worked phenomenally as well. You might be able to get it. Thanks
@@jeffschkeryantz6692 this is better for mold, algae, and fungus. For lichen, I recommend doing as shown here: th-cam.com/users/shortsJqRODo1fcLA?feature=share
I see that you are located on Cape Cod...I just happen to be checking on ways to clean my deck and you happen to be one of them..Just went through your video and I'm planning on doing this process soon. I currently live in Bourne on the Sagamore side 😀😀 just before the Sagamore bridge...Thanks for your video...😁😁😁😁😁
We used dirtex and bleach solutions on siding regularly prepping for paint. We used car wash brushes on painter poles with an assist from a power washer. Rubber gloves were useless because solution ran off the brush, down the pole, over the gloves and down your arm. When you dipped your brush again it ran down your arm and filled up your gloves. “You know your soaking in it”!
First question, what did you use to apply the Sodium percarbonate was it downstream or a 12v? Second question, If the cedar shingles are painted can you still just saturate with water and they will be fine or it is better to cover?
First answer: air diaphragm pump from a mix tank Second answer: yes, just saturate with water before and after and don’t let the percarbonate solution dry on painted surfaces. Just keep it wet and rinse it off.
Oxalic acid doesn't just clean the rust, black spots well, it brings the wood's natural tannins to the surface just like new. Rinsing well is good, but one last spray with diluted baking soda will neutralize the acidity, so the stain looks its best.
Any advice on how to get the black spots and streaks in the wood (pressure treated pine - Baltimore MD) to cleanup? I’ve tried treating and scrubbing and 40 degree pressure washing without any luck.
That is what the oxalic acid is for, that he mentioned in the video. It brightens the wood, neutralizes the cleaner and gets rid of the black streaks. He uses the powder form, but deck brighteners sold at home centers etc., often have it in their ingredients... make sure to verify if you go this route. Stubborn spots may need another coat and rinse.
Oxalic acid doesn’t really do anything to clean… it just helps with aesthetics. So no, it’s not an absolute must. But, SH (sodium hypochlorite) doesn’t really do anything to clean wood either. .. it just makes wood brighter by burning the wood fibers. Please make sure you understand that this video is on using OXYGEN bleach (sodium percarbonate), not CHLORINE bleach (sodium hypochlorite…”SH”).
Thanks for this video. What do you do if cedar has already been pressure washed and other big box chems used on it to get rid of algae with no lasting results?
Dealing with the results of a cleaning job, which may be wasn’t done real well is one of the hardest things to do. Often times, mold, and LG will be coming from deep inside the wood if the proper chems weren’t used the first time. This stuff will work if given enough time, and if the deck isn’t protected by an overhang. Follow the directions and don’t be afraid to treat it multiple times over the course of months. amzn.to/43SPjF2 Note that this isn’t a product you can use to “ prep” the deck before staining it. It’s a passive cleaning product for a passive cleaning method which relies upon chemicals and a lot of time.
With your chem mix i see you applying it with garden hose and chem pump i assume as opose to a pump sprayer. I have both a chem pump 10 gpm electric 90 psi and a pump sprayer. If you use a chem marine pump do you make the mixture you recomended then run it through proportioner without water just the streight mixter because its premixed. I also have 6 gpm marine pump chem pump and a pump sprayer.
Great video and thanks for sharing. What if deck is in great shape (2-3 years old) and stained with transparent stain? Same procedure or skip oxalic? I will not be sanding this deck but will be applying new coats of stain. Thanks in advance. 👊
I'd lightly clean instead with something like sodium metasilicate (Krud Kutter from the hardware). The type of stain matters; test on a small area before committing to the whole deck.
If you don't have a build up of mold or mildew, my inclination would be to go straight to the oxalic and skip all the other steps. Back in the 90s oxalic acid was the active ingredient in Thompson's Deck Wash. When they changed formulas it stopped working.
@@dmv_p if there was a simple answer, I’d share it. But “Safe“ pressure for cedar varies tremendously based on so many factors: type of cedar (red, white, yellow…), age and condition of the cedar, hot or cold water, and most importantly: how far away is your tip from the cedar? Varying the distance by even an inch or two makes a tremendous difference on how much pressure the cedar actually receives…. If we were talking about fiberglass or vinyl siding or concrete driveways, we could talk about a particular number. I just see too many variables to be able to talk about a Safe PSI for cedar.
I just start scrubbing right away, but it won’t hurt anything to let the solution sit for a few minutes before scrubbing and maybe it will even help. Oxalic acid seems to work pretty instantly, so I just spray it on, see that things are brighter, and start rinsing it off. Again, it’s probably OK to let it sit for a few minutes, but you definitely don’t want to let oxalic acid dry in place; rinse it off before it dries.
Awesome question and worth it's own video! In the meantime: Percarbonate is functionally the same as peroxide, so those two choices are really only one choice. They help clean wooden decking by loosening organic growth with the bubbling action which occurs when the solution contacts the organic growth, allowing it to be scrubbed or rinsed away with less force or pressure than would otherwise be needed. Chlorine bleach ("SH") is great at making wood fibers bright but bright isn't the same a clean. Just like with our laundry, chlorine can be useful at hiding stains which remain after cleaning is done, but cleaning is done with detergents (or percarbonate solution), not with chlorine bleach. We don't clean our laundry with bleach, because bleach doesn't have actual cleaning properties, and the same is basically true with wooden decking. Hope that helps a little.
quick question, when you apply your oxalic acid, are you using a pump up sprayer then rolling or brushing it out? Or do just spray it on, and before it dries, spraying it off with water? What method are you using to apply it to the deck? Ex jet? DSing? Pump up sprayer?
I spray but I suppose a roller, brush, or mop *could* work if that’s all that was available. Or a watering can. Small jobs: pump sprayer. Large jobs: air diaphragm pump.
@@OutsideCleaners Nice, thanks for the response. I just figured it would have to be rolled out for an even coating. I used some percarbonate on my own deck and although it looks clean its somewhat spotty if that makes sense. I really wanna get this process down so when I give my price no one bat's an eye because I'm known as the guy to get it done properly with the best skill. Thanks again!
@@A-Aron118 like anything it takes some practice. And you don’t know what you’ve really done until you see everything done and dry. So it’s important to circle back and check up on your work.
Thanks so much for this video. Im trying to rejuvenate a soft cedar fence, when i pressure wash it gets really furry and kinda damages the wood. Do you never have this problem?
Cedar fencing is usually white cedar, which is very soft and prone to “furring.” The method I use to clean a hardwood deck in this video isn’t how I’d suggest approaching the cedar fence.
Every authority tells us to rinse, and leaving a deck covered with acid which burns out skin seems like an obviously bad idea, so I always rinse. I've never NOT rinsed to see what happens. Based on research, what COULD happen: 1) leaving it on the wood could alter its pH over time. This might affect the wood's stability, making it more prone to damage or discoloration. 2) as oxalic acid dries, it can leave behind visible white crystalline residues (oxalate salts) on the wood surface. These residues can mar the natural beauty of the mahogany and interfere with subsequent finishes or sealers. 3) Without rinsing, the oxalic acid might not neutralize evenly, leading to blotchy or uneven coloring on the wood surface. This would detract from the uniform appearance of the deck. 4) any finish applied over un-rinsed oxalic acid may fail to adhere properly or could react chemically, leading to peeling, discoloration, or premature degradation of the finish.
It's sort of like when children say they washed their hands in the bathroom, and an adult asks, "With soap?" Attempting to clean a wood deck without the use of oxygen bleach as shown or without a detergent in general is kind of the same thing. The oxygen bleach used in this video will kill algae and mold, and will loosen these organics from the wood, making it all easier to rinse away. If you use JUST pressure alone: 1) You'll need greater pressure than you'll otherwise need 2) On a porous surface such as wood, you'll unavoidably drive some organics deeper into the fibers of the material. 3) It might "look clean" for a little bit... until the organics come back to the surface with a vengeance, and they'll be 10x hard to remove. Power washing a wood deck without first applying something like I show here is a "rookie mistake" which I recommend avoiding.
I've seen it done, but never been very impressed with the results. Part of the problem is the circular rinsing pattern which a surface cleaner uses; that pattern is necessarily often not along the grain of the wood, but rather at an angle or sideways to it, and wood generally fares best when rinsed WITH (parallel to) the grain. Also, with the slower board-by-board method I show here, the operator is able to give stubborn spots more rinsing attention as needed, whereas a surface cleaner treats everything the same. Thanks for watching my video.
@@OutsideCleaners I appreciate the response. I have seen some guys say it's a no no to use one but never understood why. I figured it was because the tips were so close to the wood as opposed to a wand that can be 6-8 inches away. I am getting ready to clean an Ironwood deck soon with Percarbonate and Oxalic. The only question left was wand or SC? Ironwood is super dense so I figured it was going to be fine with tolerating some low pressure. I would probably not choose to use one on any softer woods though, I rather stick to advice from professionals who already do great wood restoration. I appreciate videos like yours with much detail to the method and I thank you.
@@OutsideCleaners The Karcher PS40 attachment is like a broom with wash nozzles. It avoids the circular rinse pattern but does require slightly more work in brushing the surface.
Just curious, I had a dock built over a lake about 6 months ago. I don’t want to power wash it because the wood looks like new and I just want to prep it for stain. Any recommendations for a wood brighter that’s safe for lakes and won’t kill fish or aquatic life? I was hoping just to use a deck brightener in a sprayer then brush it and rinse,but not sure what would be safe. Oxygenated bleach? Any suggestions? Thanks in advance
You’ll probably get a different answer from everyone you ask. Here’s my answer: first of all, you’re kind of screwed because you’re really not supposed to get any cleaning solutions into a body of water (see “Clean Water Act”). Doesn’t sound to me like there’s a way of washing your dock without having everything get in the water underneath. Second, if it’s sat by the water for six months, there’s gonna be organic growth started, regardless of whether you can see it with your naked eye. so I definitely wouldn’t stain it without cleaning it, but I don’t know how you can clean it without violating the clean water act. Do not try to wash your wood deck using water alone, that’s like a kid “washing” their hands in the bathroom with just water and not soap. I’m not aware of any wood brightener that you can safely (or legally) get into a lake. Sorry to say, I just don’t have any magic wand for your situation.
@@OutsideCleaners ok, we’ll I appreciate your input. I may just need to contact someone who specializes in cleaning boat docks and see what they use (or don’t use)
@@jasont7887 guarantee that somebody’s just going to clean it, rinse everything into the lake, and tell you that it’s OK they do it all the time. It’s one of those things that I’m aware people do it all the time, and nobody is supposed to do it, and the fines are tremendous but nobody gets fined… Best wishes and again, sorry to not have magic advice
I use an air diaphragm pump, but I’ve used most of what I describe here: HOW TO: Pumps I've Used for Exterior Cleaning th-cam.com/video/dSF740tX9yg/w-d-xo.html
Nice video and thanks for using convectional chemicals you can buy relatively cheap. There is a lot of deck washers out there that are very expensive but your buying a brand name instead Cheers from Down Under
This industry is shameless when it comes to marking up chemicals. Put the word “power wash” on a chemical, and the price seems to increase by 10 X. There are better options. Thanks for watching 🇦🇺
Man I used oxalis acid and rinsed. The next morning I have white residue on my beautiful cedar boards. Should I rinse again or sand ? Thanks bro I’m stressed
@@JohnAwad-t2x no idea, I’ve never experienced that. What did you first clean it with? And, was there any sort of treatment (stain, sealant) on the cedar decking before you cleaned it?
Shane, it really depends on the existing stain. Some deck stains, seem unaffected by this cleaning solution, whereas I have occasionally seen one or two wash right off from it. So, like they say, try a small test area first before committing to the whole deck. If you’re trying to chemically strip off the old stain, I recommend this process: th-cam.com/video/zs4RBy03-6s/w-d-xo.html
Great video! I did use a product that contained sodium percarbonate. I did dampen the deck prior to application. I used a stiff brush to apply and agitate. I then let it sit. Directions said to let it sit, but it was drying out. I don’t have a power washer, so I defaulted to a hose. I should have said at the beginning, this was a new cedar deck from September 2023. Our carpenter said to seal it in the spring since he felt it needed to dry. After winter it needed a good cleaning. We’ve had nothing but rain and tornados since spring. The hose just didn’t seem to remove the product it looked like a gel or slim residue was left. I tried rescrubbing and hosing it off, a squeegee, nothing seemed to work. This morning it looks blotchy, I’m really at a loss. I may have to contact a pro locally at this point. I can send you a picture if you like. I’m really at a loss. Thank you for this video & your time. 😊
I don’t recommend it. Here’s why: Wood is porous and has fibers and so it’s sort of like our laundry, right? You use soap or detergent to clean your laundry, not chlorine bleach. You might use chlorine bleach to make white t-shirts brighter and maybe hide some stains. Chlorine bleach will give the illusion of things being clean for a little while, but chlorine bleach is not useful when it comes to ACTUALLY cleaning soft, porous, fibrous surfaces. Try this instead: th-cam.com/video/utQtQa79Hj8/w-d-xo.htmlsi=EyTN3OnP9v0EtXLT
@@OutsideCleaners thanks man! I JUST watched this video as well. Let's go with the oxygen bleach. That's crazy how internet is crowded of a ton of divers information and way to do things and opinion for a single task (cleaning deck!) lol
In my opinion, no, you don’t. Oxygen bleach is a pretty mild chemical and doesn’t shift the pH of the wood a great deal away from its natural state. However, if you use a much stronger cleaner (such as sodium hydroxide), I do think it would be important to apply the acid to get the pH closer to the wood’s natural state before applying a stain. Hope that helps.
@@OutsideCleanersWhat cleaning solution do you recommend ? I also have powder coated steel doors around the deck , so need products that will not damage those . Thank you 😊
Hi great detailed video..quick question, would this method (Step 3,4 especially) remove some of existing stain also? Or should i be buying one of those stain/paint strippers and apply that for step 3,4 instead of the sodium bicarbonate solution? Thanks
Oxygen bleach generally isn’t a great choice for stripping old stain. Most chemical strippers use sodium hydroxide as the main event. th-cam.com/video/zs4RBy03-6s/w-d-xo.html
Ok gotcha. Nice link for the NaOH video. Noticed you didn't scrub that deck after applying the cleaning solution and went straight to pressure wash? I guess one can scrub on the 2nd round if initial method isn't working?
It's sodium PERcarbonate, not sodium BIcarbonate. Sodium PERcarbonate is the main ingredient in Oxyclean and other "oxygen" type cleaners. I use the one from Dollar Tree which costs $1.25 for 15 ounces in Sept 2023. Sodium BIcarbonate is the active ingredient in baking soda.
No. Stripping paints and stains uses much more caustic chemicals - and require more precautions - than what I illustrate using here to remove mold and algae.
Few questions: 1. Do you just use cold water? I saw someone else say to use heated water. 2. Do you leave the solution sitting at all either before or after scrubbing? 3. Do you use any other treatment to keep the algae/mold etc from growing back? I’m thinking of the ones that kill mold spores (I think the chemical is sodium hypochlorite). Would you recommend or not and if so, at what point in the process would you put that on? Thanks for the helpful video!
1. In the industry, I often see guys pushing “hot water” cleaning in situations where it really isn’t needed. I think they’re just looking for an upsell. In my experience, cold (“tap”) water is fine for power rinsing wood decks unless you’re either cleaning a frozen deck or trying to remove something like a grease or oil stain, in which case hot water is helpful for rinsing. 2. Really depends on the situation. I typically start renting as soon as I’m done scrubbing, but if I find it’s not cleaning up as well as I want, I’ll soak it and with more solution and let it sit for a bit more before power rinsing. 3. Sodium hypochlorite is chlorine bleach aka bleach. When used on a porous surface such as a wood deck (or clothing in our laundry), it’s only real utility is as a brightner rather than a cleaner. Many try to use it to clean wood decks, and though it gives the appearance of cleanliness because everything is brighter, on a molecular level it’s not great at cleaning porous surfaces. So, I don’t recommend it as a tool to clean wood decks. If your deck has been cleaned and you want to keep it that way, it’s worth a periodic application of one of the mildew/algae inhibitors such as Wet and Forget or Concrobium Mold Control. In my experience these won’t clean a dirty deck but they are worth a biannual application to keep a clean deck clean.
@@OutsideCleaners This is just my slmost-worst nightmare. I put dilute chlorine bleach on a badly stained redwood deck thinking it would brighten. and the wood started to turn WHITE. Scared the cr*p out of me. I barely saved it by applying dilute hydrochloric acid to that area, which I was really lucky to have on hand. After that no more alchemy for me, I've since done all by the specialty product instructions precisely.
2000 psi is plenty, but you need high-volume. The typical homeowner things of 2 gallons a minute or so will take forever and you will unavoidably have a zillion lap lines. I use in an 8 gallon per minute machine.
@@OutsideCleaners AH this is good to know, the one I was looking at was a Sun Joe with "Powerful 14.5-amp/1800-Watt motor generates a maximum of 2030 PSI (at initial discharge per CSA internal pressure testing) and 1.76 GPM (with nozzle open at minimum pressure)", so it seems to be a bit lacking in that regard
@@61spindrift No shit Chad, his advice in the video was sound and MUCH appreciated. However, the TOOLS you use to perform the job are also important and I have ZERO expertise in this field so I figured I would ask him about which washer he used. Also, did you actually read his perfectly friendly and helpful response? Would you have known that info if you didn't ask? It always amazes me how many trolls and complete idiots there are on TH-cam wasting their's and others' time by replying with such negative and nonsensical comments.
@@theslack You could be right in your response. I did and have before jumped to conclusions when I read these. MY apologies. I try to make myself a better person every day...sometimes it works and sometimes I fail at it.
Hey man I'm about to do a mahogany deck that has been water treated (no stain). Will this process work with the oil in the deck or does it have to be stripped
I'd never heard of mangeris so had to look it up. "Very dense" is what I'm reading. So, I wouldn't personally hesitate to use this process on that mangeris wood, as I often do this with good results on mahogany and ipe... As always with cleaning anything new, test things out on a small section before committing to the whole thing.
@@OutsideCleaners that is encouraging to hear. I am brightening a Cedar home and we using precarb + Oxalic steps as well. On that note, what would you recommend as a clear laquer or clear stain to use for a Cedar home post wash and brightening? I really appreciate your response, thank you.
I’m thrilled to report that I actually did clean a log home here on Cape October 2019. It’s the only log home I think I’ve ever seen on Cape Cod. And yes, I cleaned the log home with sodium percarbonate solution and pressure rinsed clean because the owner was wanting it prepped to get some sort of stain put up on it. I did not follow it up with oxalic acid. The homeowner was thrilled with how clean it got, but I do recall feeling like I needed to be very careful with pressure at the funky seams between logs.
Thanks for watching. I'm just not sure how else I could meaningfully describe the pressure I work with. Obviously, a gauge reading at the machine is a meaningless number without context... and most folks don't have a gauge anyway. If you have a better practical suggestion, definitely please share it here.
@@OutsideCleaners I hear you. Just a bit concerned because my homeowner machine (electric, basic) is 1800 psi and can't be adjusted down so I have to back it away from my PT pine. Maybe folks could test something like an apple, something that won't be destroyed if you hit it with the 500 to 600 psi suggested for soft wood/soft wash? :)
You'll get a different opinion from everyone you ask. My $0.02: that's fine to quickly brighten an older or cheap-ish fence, but it's not a good method if the fence is really high quality wood or if it's going to be stained/painted. Like which our laundry, chlorine ("bleach") makes things temporarily appear brighter but just doesn't clean soft, fibrous materials. To really clean, you want an appropriate detergent along with appropriate rinsing/scrubbing.
@@OutsideCleaners That makes sense. I have uses for both - one is a high end University Tennis deck made of Teak Wood. I think I'l skip the clorine bleach and use many that Oci Clean, scrub and light sanding, then boiled Linseed Oil Thanks so much for the good advice
Generally speaking, a surfactant is used to add "cling" to chemicals which may otherwise run off a surface too fast i.e. before the chemical has really had a chance to do its thing. But on a flat, horizontal surface, I haven't found the need. Additionally, surfactants tend to be very alkaline, and mixing a strongly alkaline surfactant to oxygen bleach (sodium percarbonate solution) will *tend* to cause it to "kick off" or catalyze so quickly that it is makes it difficult to use. So, I personally recommend leaving the surfactants to vertical or sloped surfaces which you're washing with a chemical other than oxygen bleach.
I watch hundreds of videos. Literally hundreds. But only of practical content. And make notes. So accurate grading is at hand.
And this presentation is most certainly in the top . Only TWO.
No bulldusting. No beating around wasting time. To-the-point. Perfectly executed. Very well done.
Thank you kindly.
Thanks for watching and for the nice feedback!
Most welcome!
Great video, some good tips. One point is that I neutralise the oxalic acid with a weak ammonia solution before the final rinse to eliminate any small traces of oxalic acid remaining and doesn’t damage the wood. Great for Ipe, some ipe strips can be dark and oxalic acid helps lighten the wood and enhance the grain.
This is the internet version of a great neighbor. Gets right to it. No milking time for ad revenue and no pushing products with shadow sponsors
Thanks for your nice comment.
@@OutsideCleaners a lot of people appreciate it we all just need to help each other out it’s the only way the world will become smarter ❤
@TheChupacabra Things go both ways -- why not be willing to have 15 seconds of an ad in appreciation for something you're getting amazing value of (literally for free aside from the time element; how much is 15 seconds of your time worth? Pay them that, then).
Well done video, short and sweet, complete with notes, mix ratios, before & after samples, clear speaking presentation, and...NO LOUD ROCK'N ROLL MUSIC drowning out the video. I have literally left comments telling other creators to "put down the camera".
You sir, are a true professional. Thank you.
Thanks for the feedback 👍🏼
Agreed. I power washed my fence days ago (before I found this great video) but yours was the clearest to follow and had the best pictures of the results for using oxi clean and oxalic to clean it. Glad they can be done on wet wood. Hopefully it gives me enough time for it to dry in a few days so I can paint and stain just before the next rain.
oh,, and they other 'creators' never listen to you? Sorry! :)
Absolute genius. I followed all of your instructions and my deck looks like it’s brand new. Yes, it was a bit of work, but the results were fantastic. Thank you for your video, it’s worth its weight in gold.
I'm telling my wife Leah that somebody said I'm a genius :) . Thanks for your comment and for watching.
@@OutsideCleaners I suspect she laughed, and in a way that left you wondering if she was in on the joke, or really felt that way. 🤔
Thank you for the concise informative video. No nonsense no rambling no self promoting. Perfect how to. Rare. Thank you.
Thanks for watching
I tried out these products & process on my cedar siding on my house. Pressure washing alone only got about 80% of the mildew. After washing with the Sodium percarbonate and Oxalic Acid it cleaned off the remaining crud and left the cedar looking new. Cedar is over 45 years old! Thanks for the video!!
Glad you got good results but I'd caution anyone against trying to clean wood with just water pressure. While you might achieve an apparent improvement in appearance, on a microscopic level you're doing far more harm than good by just jamming organic growth into the wood fibers. Wood which has been previously "cleaned" with water pressure alone is a nightmare to re-clean as time goes by, because mold and algae is now very deeply embedded into the wood fibers.
@@OutsideCleaners You could always use a quat, like BAC/ DDAC instead, something like Wet and Forget etc. That way you're not risking the algae flashing back. What I've done when jetwashing concrete pathways at the backs of houses is apply a 1% solution of DDAC, commercial stuff which contains a surfactant, after using the Karcher. What I understand is that the quats forms a film on the surface and will kill any spores that come into contact soon after.
Always so generous with fantastic knowledge. Been Powerwashing for years and always learn something from Nate at outside cleaners
I like it that OC doesn't say to wear a respirator, spiked shoes, rubber gloves, goggles, and don't try to plug a power washer with your finger. I call this "an instructional video for adults"! Thanks!
Best video I’ve watched so far. I’ve been trying to find the proper steps to prep a deck to be stained, most videos are controversial to others lol.
Thanks for watching
I put several scrubbers in my Home depot cart but was not sure which head size to buy, came back to your video (bookmarked before for reference) to get an idea of what you used, saw that you used the Quickie 12" scrub brush and that's what i am going to buy, you solved my indecison, also thank you for giving the mixing instructions , i want to follow instructions from a pro, you gave very clear step by step instructions
Good luck on your project
OK, another question. After completing this process on Pt wood, do you suggest putting some kind of sealer on the deck.
It would darken the wood….personally/typically, I do not like the sealer.
How are you spraying on the mix? When you say 1/2 cup per gallon, what's getting on the deck? Is that downstreamed so the ratio is much lower?
No, no downstream. Solution is applied at the ratio mentioned, applied from a tank with a pump.
Info on that here: th-cam.com/video/dSF740tX9yg/w-d-xo.html
Very well done. I have an older deck whick I have applied solid stain to over the years. If I want to clean it before applying another coat of solid stain, would I just do the percarbonate solution and skip the oxalic acid part?
Thanks for watching. For solid stains, I get better results with a solution of sodium metasilicate than sodium percarbonate.
Here's a video illustrating the process on a porch ceiling but to me it's basically the same when on a deck. Just don't let it dry before rinsing...
th-cam.com/video/7fnO3McnQj4/w-d-xo.html
I have a deck wash coming up how do you mix sodium pre carb? I herd it’s hard to dissolve and best to use warm water? Do you do this prior to arriving at the customer home? Also how do you apply, down stream, 12v ?
Ever clean Ipe wood? I was going to use precarbonate with hot water fan tip it then oxalic acid?
Yes. You can do fine with pie with the same process shown here.
Thanks for the video and step by step for cleaning. We have a covered mahogany wrap around porch and I would like to know the best oil to apply to the decking after cleaning and prepping.
The “Best” oil is going to vary widely depending upon where you live and who you ask. I would ask a high-end painter in your geographic area what they recommend. Even then, if you ask 10 different painters, you’ll get a dozen different answers. 😆🙄
Awesome video. Simple and straightforward. One question: do I really need a power washer in step 5? Meaning can’t I just use a garden hose nozzle on the jet setting to achieve that relatively low pressure? Let’s assume I’m putting out, like, 50psi at the end of the hose. Trying to avoid buying a power washer if possible. Thanks for great videos without all the fluff!
Answer: it depends!
A small-ish deck with minimal or mild algae upon it... sure. A large deck with years of thick algae baked on... probably not practical to try with a garden hose.
Here's the thing: the stronger the chems, the less rinsing pressure is needed. Oxygen bleach as shown here is a pretty mild cleaning chemical, so it generally requires some rinsing oomph.
If I was going to try to clean a deck with just a garden hose, I might consider use a stronger chemical to compensate for less rinsing volume/pressure.
Cleaning with a stronger chemical: th-cam.com/video/zs4RBy03-6s/w-d-xo.html
Hope that helps!
I read an article that stated oxalic acid can react with alkalaine cleaners whoch can cause adhesion issues. Same wirh the acid itself if not properly rinse is this true?
Also, what psi are you using for the pressure whasher.
Thank you
Very informative video..are you applying your chemicals with a soft Wash setup or a downstream injector?..Thanks
Bulk tank & air diaphragm pump, but a bucket and mop works too.
Downstream injectors don't work will with oxygen bleach, as they necessarily dilute it too much.
I heard people using diluted bleach for a brightener. Can you tell us why to avoid it, even when on a budget? Thanks.
Cons: compared to oxalic acid, bleach has more of an ability to strip the oils which make cedar so long-lasting. Also, bleach is pretty corrosive, so that nails or staples tend to rust quicker and leave rust stains. th-cam.com/video/YxKNpGqNqd8/w-d-xo.html
question: is the sodium percarbonate downstream injected after mixed or is the the mix being applied?
No, don’t try to downstream it. It gets applied as mixed.
@@OutsideCleaners got it thanks
Very clear and efficient video!
Thanks for watching!
nice...2 questions: 1- other than brightening the wood, is oxalic acid really necessary? In the video, the wood had a nice red color prior to bleaching. 2- after this is all done and dried, do you suggest appying any protective coating, sealer, orange oil or the like? Thanks!
1) Oxalic acid "brightens" the wood by restoring its pH to something closer to its natural state. I'm told by folks in the painting industry that applying stains, paints, or sealants works best when a wood's pH is around neutral rather than way off to one side or another. While I can't personally back up that claim, I hear it consistently enough to think there's probably something to it. So, from that angle, applying oxalic acid may have a functional purpose.
2) Sealants, oils, and stains for wood decking pretty much all a come with a commitment to annual or semi-annual maintenance, which is something that *very* few homeowners seem interested in following through with. For that reason, and for that crowd, I say just clean it once and enjoy it. If you want your deck to look its best and are willing to commit to annual cleaning and touch-up, go for it.
@@OutsideCleaners totally agree on the second point. I do quite a bit of woodwork (restoration of old chairs, tables, etc) where I use Oxalic acid as a bleaching agent. It is gentler than chlorine bleach but typically removes stains, particularly those black/brown stains due to metal contact (rust). Anyhow, I will try your approach (probably minus the acid) on my deck which I never sealed and is looking a bit tired. As far as painting goes, pH neutral is best, so washing after acid treatment is important. Alkaline wood tends not to hold the paint as strong alkalis is the basis of most paint strippers.
Very helpful. Not allot of good information out there on how to clean wood properly. I’m cleaning a fence tomorrow and will be using sodium hydroxide and oxalic.
Sodium percarbonate seems more environmentally friendly but feels cost prohibitive at this stage of my business. Thanks for the upload
I’d make the same choice 👍🏼
Sodium hydroxide is stronger, and more dangerous if you don’t know what you’re doing. Sodium percarbonate is sort of the “Nerf“ tool in the cleaning toolbox.
@@OutsideCleaners What's your preferred percentage/ratio for sodium hydroxide and where should homeowners buy it? And if you guys use it I guess it doesn't destroy wood the way I've read bleach does? Or is that you apply, scrub and rinse it quick enough not to do damage to the wood?
How did you apply the oxolic acid? Pump bottle sprayer?
Pump sprayers will work for small areas.
I usually an air diaphragm pump
HOW TO: Pumps I've Used for Exterior Cleaning
th-cam.com/video/dSF740tX9yg/w-d-xo.html
how do you clean the railings and spindles? I am 68 and have so many of them. is there any way to spray a solution and rinse without scrubbing each side?
Now thats a Quality Video..... Now that Im Older ~ I can tell people ( Its not that I can’t Understand ) ... I just don’t learn the way you Teach...Im gonna try that Acid stuff like U said ~ ive done 40 decks without it and I would love to see how it comes out .
Good luck and thanks for watching
Interesting video..When you are applying the cleaning solution are you applying it with a soft Wash setup?..What would the mixture be if I was to apply the cleaner with a pressure washer and Xjet?..Thanks
TH-cam.com/@hillshepardson9537 bulk tank & air diaphragm pump, but a bucket and mop works too.
Downstream injectors (XJets etc) don't work well with oxygen bleach, as they necessarily dilute it too much.
It might be an obvious question but I wonder, was this deck stained? Why would it lose its brightness after drying?
Not stained. Not obvious. Thanks for your question.
The dull appearance of the decking after cleaning is due to various factors such as weathering, oxidation, and the removal of natural oils and resins from the wood surface. Cleaning removes algae, surface dirt and grime etc, but it doesn't necessarily restore the wood's original color and luster.
Oxalic acid revitalizes wood surfaces by chemically reacting with iron oxide (rust), tannins, and other stains that darken wood. By neutralizing these discolorations, oxalic acid restores the natural color and beauty of the wood.
I personally also think that wood cleaner generally darken wood due to their pH, while acids shift the pH back the other way, closer to the wood's natural state.
@@OutsideCleaners thank you! Do you use oxalic acid on stained decks as well? I've read online it might be harmful to vegetation and I have shrubs surrounding my deck, trying to understand how environmentally safe it is.
What do you use on the wood afterwards to treat it in stopping it from getting dirty again.🇨🇦
Excellent video, every maintenance contractor should watch.
Thanks 👍🏼
I was wondering if you would paint the deck or put some other finishing treatment on it.. Thanks for the video?
Mahogany can be stained or sealed if desired. But that’s a commitment to maintenance every year or two, and in 13 years of doing this on Cape Cod I’ve very few homeowners who are committed enough to keep up with the maintenance it takes. I’ve also been less and less impressed with the new “high tech” stains and sealants on the market these last several years. For these reasons, I suggest that rule #1 is to just keep the deck clean, if nothing else.
@@OutsideCleaners thank you so much for your time.. have a blessed day.
Hi - Do you use your power washer or a garden pump sprayer to apply the diluted sodium percarbonate and oxalic acid?
No. Air diaphragm pump
th-cam.com/video/dSF740tX9yg/w-d-xo.html
Nice work mate. QUESTION: What do you then seal/oil the deck with to hold that lustre?
Answer: I don’t.
In my area, I encounter extraordinarily few homeowners who are willing to put in the annual (yes annual) maintenance required after sealing or oiling a deck. Doing it once and then leaving it is just pissing money away. So, I almost always advise that the best thing to do is just keep it clean and let it weather to a silver or gray appearance. Since that’s what everyone in my area seems to want their deck to look like, and that’s what they often even stain wood to appear like, that seems to be the best advice given the situation.
It seems to me that different areas of the country have different favorite products to seal or stain. If that’s the route that customers go. I do think that variations in weather and climate play a tremendous role in what works and what doesn’t. So, my best advice is to ask someone in your local area .
@@OutsideCleaners Thanks mate, understand only too well the lackadaisical approach people have towards deck maintenance.
Just started a small pressure washing business of my own. Used to work beside a self made millionaire who started with pressure washing and eventually moved on to epoxy and modified cement overlays. Just want to say that your technique for pressure is flawless. The "flicking" motion does wonders for preventing damage. Do you use your pressure washer to apply the chemical cleaner? Im assuming downstream and if so what chemical are you using? I used to get something called New Again for asphalt shingles and wood, but don't know what is was made of, can't find it, and have never used bleach directly on wood. Any tips? Great job. I'll be looking into oxalic acid as well. The product i mentioned worked phenomenally as well. You might be able to get it. Thanks
Does this process get rid of lichen on the deck..?
@@jeffschkeryantz6692 this is better for mold, algae, and fungus. For lichen, I recommend doing as shown here:
th-cam.com/users/shortsJqRODo1fcLA?feature=share
What do you use to spray the mixture?
I use an air diaphragm pump but even a watering can could work. th-cam.com/video/dSF740tX9yg/w-d-xo.html
Thanks for your professional insight. What angle or degree of the power washer tip do you recommend? 25 or 40 ? Thanks brother
40. White tip. That's what I prefer. In combo with a 8+gpm machine, it allows you to do lots of rinsing quickly.
The Man! Do you use a soft brush or hard bristle
I see that you are located on Cape Cod...I just happen to be checking on ways to clean my deck and you happen to be one of them..Just went through your video and I'm planning on doing this process soon. I currently live in Bourne on the Sagamore side 😀😀 just before the Sagamore bridge...Thanks for your video...😁😁😁😁😁
Thanks for watching and good luck on your project.
We used dirtex and bleach solutions on siding regularly prepping for paint. We used car wash brushes on painter poles with an assist from a power washer. Rubber gloves were useless because solution ran off the brush, down the pole, over the gloves and down your arm. When you dipped your brush again it ran down your arm and filled up your gloves. “You know your soaking in it”!
ooof.
First question, what did you use to apply the Sodium percarbonate was it downstream or a 12v? Second question, If the cedar shingles are painted can you still just saturate with water and they will be fine or it is better to cover?
First answer: air diaphragm pump from a mix tank
Second answer: yes, just saturate with water before and after and don’t let the percarbonate solution dry on painted surfaces. Just keep it wet and rinse it off.
Oxalic acid doesn't just clean the rust, black spots well, it brings the wood's natural tannins to the surface just like new. Rinsing well is good, but one last spray with diluted baking soda will neutralize the acidity, so the stain looks its best.
That has to be a steady costumer now.
Does the brightener work on Teak? Great tip on the Pressure washer.
Any advice on how to get the black spots and streaks in the wood (pressure treated pine - Baltimore MD) to cleanup? I’ve tried treating and scrubbing and 40 degree pressure washing without any luck.
That is what the oxalic acid is for, that he mentioned in the video. It brightens the wood, neutralizes the cleaner and gets rid of the black streaks. He uses the powder form, but deck brighteners sold at home centers etc., often have it in their ingredients... make sure to verify if you go this route. Stubborn spots may need another coat and rinse.
How about cleaning a driveway? Maybe as a pre treatment before pressure washing?
Yes on concrete. No on asphalt/blacktop.
@@OutsideCleaners Thanks for the 411, guess I know what I'll be doing soon. Thanks again!
Hi just wondering if the oxalic acid is an absolute must have or would I be alright to just use SH and rinse well after . Thanks great video
Oxalic acid doesn’t really do anything to clean… it just helps with aesthetics. So no, it’s not an absolute must. But, SH (sodium hypochlorite) doesn’t really do anything to clean wood either. .. it just makes wood brighter by burning the wood fibers. Please make sure you understand that this video is on using OXYGEN bleach (sodium percarbonate), not CHLORINE bleach (sodium hypochlorite…”SH”).
@@OutsideCleaners ok so it is ok to use SH without following up with oxalic acid? It will just have a different result ?
Thanks for this video. What do you do if cedar has already been pressure washed and other big box chems used on it to get rid of algae with no lasting results?
Dealing with the results of a cleaning job, which may be wasn’t done real well is one of the hardest things to do. Often times, mold, and LG will be coming from deep inside the wood if the proper chems weren’t used the first time.
This stuff will work if given enough time, and if the deck isn’t protected by an overhang. Follow the directions and don’t be afraid to treat it multiple times over the course of months.
amzn.to/43SPjF2
Note that this isn’t a product you can use to “ prep” the deck before staining it. It’s a passive cleaning product for a passive cleaning method which relies upon chemicals and a lot of time.
With your chem mix i see you applying it with garden hose and chem pump i assume as opose to a pump sprayer. I have both a chem pump 10 gpm electric 90 psi and a pump sprayer. If you use a chem marine pump do you make the mixture you recomended then run it through proportioner without water just the streight mixter because its premixed. I also have 6 gpm marine pump chem pump and a pump sprayer.
No proportioners for this. I spray with an air diaphragm pump from individual tanks.
Great video and thanks for sharing. What if deck is in great shape (2-3 years old) and stained with transparent stain? Same procedure or skip oxalic? I will not be sanding this deck but will be applying new coats of stain. Thanks in advance. 👊
I'd lightly clean instead with something like sodium metasilicate (Krud Kutter from the hardware). The type of stain matters; test on a small area before committing to the whole deck.
@@OutsideCleaners Thanks a bunch!
If you don't have a build up of mold or mildew, my inclination would be to go straight to the oxalic and skip all the other steps. Back in the 90s oxalic acid was the active ingredient in Thompson's Deck Wash. When they changed formulas it stopped working.
How much pressure (psi) is safe for cedar? Great work btw cheers
@@dmv_p if there was a simple answer, I’d share it. But “Safe“ pressure for cedar varies tremendously based on so many factors: type of cedar (red, white, yellow…), age and condition of the cedar, hot or cold water, and most importantly: how far away is your tip from the cedar? Varying the distance by even an inch or two makes a tremendous difference on how much pressure the cedar actually receives….
If we were talking about fiberglass or vinyl siding or concrete driveways, we could talk about a particular number. I just see too many variables to be able to talk about a Safe PSI for cedar.
Good tips, I've used oxylic acid to but be careful when rinsing as can kill grass, plants and fish in ponds nearby,😎
Should you let your cleaning solution soak for a bit before scrubbing it and how long should you wait when doing step 6 before you being step 7?
I just start scrubbing right away, but it won’t hurt anything to let the solution sit for a few minutes before scrubbing and maybe it will even help.
Oxalic acid seems to work pretty instantly, so I just spray it on, see that things are brighter, and start rinsing it off. Again, it’s probably OK to let it sit for a few minutes, but you definitely don’t want to let oxalic acid dry in place; rinse it off before it dries.
why choose percarbonate vs peroxide vs bleach? i havent found too much on that, other than SH is frowned upon (even at 2%).
Awesome question and worth it's own video!
In the meantime:
Percarbonate is functionally the same as peroxide, so those two choices are really only one choice. They help clean wooden decking by loosening organic growth with the bubbling action which occurs when the solution contacts the organic growth, allowing it to be scrubbed or rinsed away with less force or pressure than would otherwise be needed.
Chlorine bleach ("SH") is great at making wood fibers bright but bright isn't the same a clean. Just like with our laundry, chlorine can be useful at hiding stains which remain after cleaning is done, but cleaning is done with detergents (or percarbonate solution), not with chlorine bleach. We don't clean our laundry with bleach, because bleach doesn't have actual cleaning properties, and the same is basically true with wooden decking.
Hope that helps a little.
@@OutsideCleaners Actually, that cleans it up in my mind. Thanks. Advice is invaluable.
quick question, when you apply your oxalic acid, are you using a pump up sprayer then rolling or brushing it out? Or do just spray it on, and before it dries, spraying it off with water? What method are you using to apply it to the deck? Ex jet? DSing? Pump up sprayer?
I spray but I suppose a roller, brush, or mop *could* work if that’s all that was available. Or a watering can.
Small jobs: pump sprayer.
Large jobs: air diaphragm pump.
@@OutsideCleaners Nice, thanks for the response. I just figured it would have to be rolled out for an even coating. I used some percarbonate on my own deck and although it looks clean its somewhat spotty if that makes sense.
I really wanna get this process down so when I give my price no one bat's an eye because I'm known as the guy to get it done properly with the best skill. Thanks again!
@@A-Aron118 like anything it takes some practice. And you don’t know what you’ve really done until you see everything done and dry. So it’s important to circle back and check up on your work.
Thanks so much for this video. Im trying to rejuvenate a soft cedar fence, when i pressure wash it gets really furry and kinda damages the wood. Do you never have this problem?
Cedar fencing is usually white cedar, which is very soft and prone to “furring.” The method I use to clean a hardwood deck in this video isn’t how I’d suggest approaching the cedar fence.
What would happen if you didn't rinse of the Oxalic Acid?
th-cam.com/video/-9NMt42il4Q/w-d-xo.html
Every authority tells us to rinse, and leaving a deck covered with acid which burns out skin seems like an obviously bad idea, so I always rinse. I've never NOT rinsed to see what happens. Based on research, what COULD happen:
1) leaving it on the wood could alter its pH over time. This might affect the wood's stability, making it more prone to damage or discoloration.
2) as oxalic acid dries, it can leave behind visible white crystalline residues (oxalate salts) on the wood surface. These residues can mar the natural beauty of the mahogany and interfere with subsequent finishes or sealers.
3) Without rinsing, the oxalic acid might not neutralize evenly, leading to blotchy or uneven coloring on the wood surface. This would detract from the uniform appearance of the deck.
4) any finish applied over un-rinsed oxalic acid may fail to adhere properly or could react chemically, leading to peeling, discoloration, or premature degradation of the finish.
@@OutsideCleaners Thanks Nate, really enjoy the videos!
@ thanks for watching
Brother thank you, what is the ratio of sodium percarbonate to water? Thanks man!
2:27 mark
Masterful, thank you!
What is a reason to not start with power washing?
It's sort of like when children say they washed their hands in the bathroom, and an adult asks, "With soap?" Attempting to clean a wood deck without the use of oxygen bleach as shown or without a detergent in general is kind of the same thing.
The oxygen bleach used in this video will kill algae and mold, and will loosen these organics from the wood, making it all easier to rinse away. If you use JUST pressure alone:
1) You'll need greater pressure than you'll otherwise need
2) On a porous surface such as wood, you'll unavoidably drive some organics deeper into the fibers of the material.
3) It might "look clean" for a little bit... until the organics come back to the surface with a vengeance, and they'll be 10x hard to remove.
Power washing a wood deck without first applying something like I show here is a "rookie mistake" which I recommend avoiding.
Random Question: Is there a good reason to not use a surface cleaner at low pressure on a deck? I've always wondered.
I've seen it done, but never been very impressed with the results.
Part of the problem is the circular rinsing pattern which a surface cleaner uses; that pattern is necessarily often not along the grain of the wood, but rather at an angle or sideways to it, and wood generally fares best when rinsed WITH (parallel to) the grain.
Also, with the slower board-by-board method I show here, the operator is able to give stubborn spots more rinsing attention as needed, whereas a surface cleaner treats everything the same.
Thanks for watching my video.
@@OutsideCleaners I appreciate the response. I have seen some guys say it's a no no to use one but never understood why. I figured it was because the tips were so close to the wood as opposed to a wand that can be 6-8 inches away. I am getting ready to clean an Ironwood deck soon with Percarbonate and Oxalic. The only question left was wand or SC? Ironwood is super dense so I figured it was going to be fine with tolerating some low pressure. I would probably not choose to use one on any softer woods though, I rather stick to advice from professionals who already do great wood restoration. I appreciate videos like yours with much detail to the method and I thank you.
@@OutsideCleaners The Karcher PS40 attachment is like a broom with wash nozzles. It avoids the circular rinse pattern but does require slightly more work in brushing the surface.
@@OutsideCleaners do you think an X-JET M5 fan spray would be better since it could cover more ground?
@@justinoneill2837 for application? I'm not a fan of the xJet for deck work but if it works for you, go for it!
Do you have a link for the sodium percarbonate that you use. I only see the oxalic acid. Thank you
amzn.to/43RQTpQ
What method do you apply the oxalic acid with?
Good video.
@@babycakes8434 take your pick
HOW TO: Pumps I've Used for Exterior Cleaning
th-cam.com/video/dSF740tX9yg/w-d-xo.html
Just curious, I had a dock built over a lake about 6 months ago. I don’t want to power wash it because the wood looks like new and I just want to prep it for stain. Any recommendations for a wood brighter that’s safe for lakes and won’t kill fish or aquatic life? I was hoping just to use a deck brightener in a sprayer then brush it and rinse,but not sure what would be safe. Oxygenated bleach? Any suggestions? Thanks in advance
You’ll probably get a different answer from everyone you ask. Here’s my answer: first of all, you’re kind of screwed because you’re really not supposed to get any cleaning solutions into a body of water (see “Clean Water Act”). Doesn’t sound to me like there’s a way of washing your dock without having everything get in the water underneath. Second, if it’s sat by the water for six months, there’s gonna be organic growth started, regardless of whether you can see it with your naked eye. so I definitely wouldn’t stain it without cleaning it, but I don’t know how you can clean it without violating the clean water act. Do not try to wash your wood deck using water alone, that’s like a kid “washing” their hands in the bathroom with just water and not soap. I’m not aware of any wood brightener that you can safely (or legally) get into a lake. Sorry to say, I just don’t have any magic wand for your situation.
@@OutsideCleaners ok, we’ll I appreciate your input. I may just need to contact someone who specializes in cleaning boat docks and see what they use (or don’t use)
@@jasont7887 guarantee that somebody’s just going to clean it, rinse everything into the lake, and tell you that it’s OK they do it all the time. It’s one of those things that I’m aware people do it all the time, and nobody is supposed to do it, and the fines are tremendous but nobody gets fined…
Best wishes and again, sorry to not have magic advice
Hi! Would you do these same steps if it’s mahogany decking that has poly on it? Also? If it’s a large large deck, do you just work in sections?
I'd prob just spray Simple Green and power rinse. If mold/algae remains, then it's in or UNDER the poly and your problems have just begun.
@@OutsideCleaners thank you for responding!!
When applying the cleaning solution and the oxalic acid, do you use a soft wash pump set up for that? Or how are you applying that?
I use an air diaphragm pump, but I’ve used most of what I describe here:
HOW TO: Pumps I've Used for Exterior Cleaning
th-cam.com/video/dSF740tX9yg/w-d-xo.html
Nice video and thanks for using convectional chemicals you can buy relatively cheap.
There is a lot of deck washers out there that are very expensive but your buying a brand name instead
Cheers from Down Under
This industry is shameless when it comes to marking up chemicals.
Put the word “power wash” on a chemical, and the price seems to increase by 10 X.
There are better options.
Thanks for watching 🇦🇺
how long do let the chemicals sit on the deck before rinsing off??
At least several minutes, but don’t let it dry.
What do you use for deck stripper along with the cleaning process?
If you’re trying to strip stain or paint, sodium hydroxide is the typical tool. That’s not what I illustrate here.
Awesome tips. Didn’t know that expensive ani-grey just is a spoon of cheap oxal-acid powder + 1.5 gallons / 5 liter water
Man I used oxalis acid and rinsed. The next morning I have white residue on my beautiful cedar boards. Should I rinse again or sand ? Thanks bro I’m stressed
@@JohnAwad-t2x no idea, I’ve never experienced that.
What did you first clean it with? And, was there any sort of treatment (stain, sealant) on the cedar decking before you cleaned it?
Yo.That is a very legit video.
Totally. Tell your friends. 👍🏼
Does this process apply to already stained decks prior to restaining?
Shane, it really depends on the existing stain. Some deck stains, seem unaffected by this cleaning solution, whereas I have occasionally seen one or two wash right off from it. So, like they say, try a small test area first before committing to the whole deck.
If you’re trying to chemically strip off the old stain, I recommend this process:
th-cam.com/video/zs4RBy03-6s/w-d-xo.html
Great video! I did use a product that contained sodium percarbonate. I did dampen the deck prior to application. I used a stiff brush to apply and agitate. I then let it sit. Directions said to let it sit, but it was drying out. I don’t have a power washer, so I defaulted to a hose. I should have said at the beginning, this was a new cedar deck from September 2023. Our carpenter said to seal it in the spring since he felt it needed to dry. After winter it needed a good cleaning. We’ve had nothing but rain and tornados since spring. The hose just didn’t seem to remove the product it looked like a gel or slim residue was left. I tried rescrubbing and hosing it off, a squeegee, nothing seemed to work. This morning it looks blotchy, I’m really at a loss. I may have to contact a pro locally at this point. I can send you a picture if you like. I’m really at a loss. Thank you for this video & your time. 😊
@@jimwiskus8862 hi, thanks for watching. You mentioned something about sealing the deck. Has this deck been sealed?
Hi! Could you tell me if I could clean my deck with some chlorine bleach and warm water and a good scrubbing brush ? Thanks!
I don’t recommend it. Here’s why:
Wood is porous and has fibers and so it’s sort of like our laundry, right? You use soap or detergent to clean your laundry, not chlorine bleach. You might use chlorine bleach to make white t-shirts brighter and maybe hide some stains. Chlorine bleach will give the illusion of things being clean for a little while, but chlorine bleach is not useful when it comes to ACTUALLY cleaning soft, porous, fibrous surfaces.
Try this instead:
th-cam.com/video/utQtQa79Hj8/w-d-xo.htmlsi=EyTN3OnP9v0EtXLT
@@OutsideCleaners thanks man! I JUST watched this video as well. Let's go with the oxygen bleach. That's crazy how internet is crowded of a ton of divers information and way to do things and opinion for a single task (cleaning deck!) lol
Do I have to use the acid if I'm staining the deck? Thanks
In my opinion, no, you don’t. Oxygen bleach is a pretty mild chemical and doesn’t shift the pH of the wood a great deal away from its natural state. However, if you use a much stronger cleaner (such as sodium hydroxide), I do think it would be important to apply the acid to get the pH closer to the wood’s natural state before applying a stain.
Hope that helps.
Good looking cleaning job. Does the oxalic acid replace using a brightener? Do you have a finished product video? Thanks! John
Oxalic acid *is* the brightener.
How do you mean by finished product video?
@@OutsideCleaners Well, I didn't know if you were going to apply a stain, or some other product? Thanks!
@@OutsideCleanersWhat cleaning solution do you recommend ? I also have powder coated steel doors around the deck , so need products that will not damage those . Thank you 😊
@@Johnny53kgb-nsasee other questions below video for answer 😉
Did you use a pump sprayer for the acid?
You can for small areas but I use an air diaphragm pump for decks
th-cam.com/video/dSF740tX9yg/w-d-xo.html
Do you soak the Oxalic Acid as you did with the Sodium Percarbonate? And is there dwell time or brushing? Sorry for the questions
Ox does its thing very quickly. Just spray or brush it on and then rinse it off. Don't let it dry before rinsing.
Hi great detailed video..quick question, would this method (Step 3,4 especially) remove some of existing stain also? Or should i be buying one of those stain/paint strippers and apply that for step 3,4 instead of the sodium bicarbonate solution? Thanks
Oxygen bleach generally isn’t a great choice for stripping old stain. Most chemical strippers use sodium hydroxide as the main event.
th-cam.com/video/zs4RBy03-6s/w-d-xo.html
Ok gotcha. Nice link for the NaOH video. Noticed you didn't scrub that deck after applying the cleaning solution and went straight to pressure wash? I guess one can scrub on the 2nd round if initial method isn't working?
@@nikbadshah like with washing your hands or a car or a carpet, the stronger the solution, the less scrubbing you need.
@@OutsideCleaners Makes sense. Thank you :)
It's sodium PERcarbonate, not sodium BIcarbonate. Sodium PERcarbonate is the main ingredient in Oxyclean and other "oxygen" type cleaners. I use the one from Dollar Tree which costs $1.25 for 15 ounces in Sept 2023. Sodium BIcarbonate is the active ingredient in baking soda.
Does this also apply to stripping paint from a deck?
No. Stripping paints and stains uses much more caustic chemicals - and require more precautions - than what I illustrate using here to remove mold and algae.
Few questions:
1. Do you just use cold water? I saw someone else say to use heated water.
2. Do you leave the solution sitting at all either before or after scrubbing?
3. Do you use any other treatment to keep the algae/mold etc from growing back? I’m thinking of the ones that kill mold spores (I think the chemical is sodium hypochlorite). Would you recommend or not and if so, at what point in the process would you put that on?
Thanks for the helpful video!
1. In the industry, I often see guys pushing “hot water” cleaning in situations where it really isn’t needed. I think they’re just looking for an upsell. In my experience, cold (“tap”) water is fine for power rinsing wood decks unless you’re either cleaning a frozen deck or trying to remove something like a grease or oil stain, in which case hot water is helpful for rinsing.
2. Really depends on the situation. I typically start renting as soon as I’m done scrubbing, but if I find it’s not cleaning up as well as I want, I’ll soak it and with more solution and let it sit for a bit more before power rinsing.
3. Sodium hypochlorite is chlorine bleach aka bleach. When used on a porous surface such as a wood deck (or clothing in our laundry), it’s only real utility is as a brightner rather than a cleaner. Many try to use it to clean wood decks, and though it gives the appearance of cleanliness because everything is brighter, on a molecular level it’s not great at cleaning porous surfaces. So, I don’t recommend it as a tool to clean wood decks. If your deck has been cleaned and you want to keep it that way, it’s worth a periodic application of one of the mildew/algae inhibitors such as Wet and Forget or Concrobium Mold Control. In my experience these won’t clean a dirty deck but they are worth a biannual application to keep a clean deck clean.
@@OutsideCleaners This is just my slmost-worst nightmare. I put dilute chlorine bleach on a badly stained redwood deck thinking it would brighten. and the wood started to turn WHITE. Scared the cr*p out of me. I barely saved it by applying dilute hydrochloric acid to that area, which I was really lucky to have on hand. After that no more alchemy for me, I've since done all by the specialty product instructions precisely.
1. You should use warm water when mixing sodium percarbonate. If that's what you were meaning with your first question.
Does a deck need to be brightened if it's going to be stained after being cleaned ?
Should be. The brightening is caused by a pH shift as the wood is brought back close to its original state.
Which pressure washer did you use? will 2000 psi be enough ?
2000 psi is plenty, but you need high-volume. The typical homeowner things of 2 gallons a minute or so will take forever and you will unavoidably have a zillion lap lines. I use in an 8 gallon per minute machine.
@@OutsideCleaners AH this is good to know, the one I was looking at was a Sun Joe with "Powerful 14.5-amp/1800-Watt motor generates a maximum of 2030 PSI (at initial discharge per CSA internal pressure testing) and 1.76 GPM (with nozzle open at minimum pressure)", so it seems to be a bit lacking in that regard
@@theslack this is not a review on what type of pressure washer to use. I am always amazed at how many stupid questions there are on youtube.
@@61spindrift No shit Chad, his advice in the video was sound and MUCH appreciated. However, the TOOLS you use to perform the job are also important and I have ZERO expertise in this field so I figured I would ask him about which washer he used. Also, did you actually read his perfectly friendly and helpful response? Would you have known that info if you didn't ask? It always amazes me how many trolls and complete idiots there are on TH-cam wasting their's and others' time by replying with such negative and nonsensical comments.
@@theslack You could be right in your response. I did and have before jumped to conclusions when I read these. MY apologies. I try to make myself a better person every day...sometimes it works and sometimes I fail at it.
Great video. How long are you letting the ox sit?
Just minutes. It does its thing pretty quickly.
Hey man I'm about to do a mahogany deck that has been water treated (no stain). Will this process work with the oil in the deck or does it have to be stripped
How did this end up going for you?
Can one clean a mangeris (hard wood) deck using this same process?
I'd never heard of mangeris so had to look it up. "Very dense" is what I'm reading. So, I wouldn't personally hesitate to use this process on that mangeris wood, as I often do this with good results on mahogany and ipe...
As always with cleaning anything new, test things out on a small section before committing to the whole thing.
@@OutsideCleaners that is encouraging to hear. I am brightening a Cedar home and we using precarb + Oxalic steps as well. On that note, what would you recommend as a clear laquer or clear stain to use for a Cedar home post wash and brightening? I really appreciate your response, thank you.
What minimum PSI so you use for pressure washer?
No idea. I don't use a gauge.
3:59 - So that's 1/33rd of a gallon or 3% strength then, presumably.
Can you use this on a log home?
I’m thrilled to report that I actually did clean a log home here on Cape October 2019. It’s the only log home I think I’ve ever seen on Cape Cod. And yes, I cleaned the log home with sodium percarbonate solution and pressure rinsed clean because the owner was wanting it prepped to get some sort of stain put up on it. I did not follow it up with oxalic acid. The homeowner was thrilled with how clean it got, but I do recall feeling like I needed to be very careful with pressure at the funky seams between logs.
Thank you for sharing your knowledge.
Thanks for watching. Please stay tuned.
Where do you get those cleaners
I linked to them in the description
How did you apply the oxalic acid?
Air diaphragm pump
th-cam.com/video/dSF740tX9yg/w-d-xo.html
Did you used to do something different for a living?
?
Sure.
Good video but I would suggest that most folks not try the hand test with a pressure washer because too many of them will remove their skin, ouch.
Thanks for watching. I'm just not sure how else I could meaningfully describe the pressure I work with. Obviously, a gauge reading at the machine is a meaningless number without context... and most folks don't have a gauge anyway. If you have a better practical suggestion, definitely please share it here.
@@OutsideCleaners I hear you. Just a bit concerned because my homeowner machine (electric, basic) is 1800 psi and can't be adjusted down so I have to back it away from my PT pine. Maybe folks could test something like an apple, something that won't be destroyed if you hit it with the 500 to 600 psi suggested for soft wood/soft wash? :)
@@OutsideCleaners I've seen knuckles sliced open with pressure washers by accident. No one should use their hand to test the pressure.
Thank you, I've edited the video to remove mention of that.
Y'all got soft hands 🙌
Others are using chlorine bleach to clean outdoor fences, is that bad?
You'll get a different opinion from everyone you ask. My $0.02: that's fine to quickly brighten an older or cheap-ish fence, but it's not a good method if the fence is really high quality wood or if it's going to be stained/painted. Like which our laundry, chlorine ("bleach") makes things temporarily appear brighter but just doesn't clean soft, fibrous materials. To really clean, you want an appropriate detergent along with appropriate rinsing/scrubbing.
@@OutsideCleaners That makes sense. I have uses for both - one is a high end University Tennis deck made of Teak Wood. I think I'l skip the clorine bleach and use many that Oci Clean, scrub and light sanding, then boiled Linseed Oil Thanks so much for the good advice
You don't need to add a surfactant to your cleaning solution? I thought this would help?
Generally speaking, a surfactant is used to add "cling" to chemicals which may otherwise run off a surface too fast i.e. before the chemical has really had a chance to do its thing. But on a flat, horizontal surface, I haven't found the need. Additionally, surfactants tend to be very alkaline, and mixing a strongly alkaline surfactant to oxygen bleach (sodium percarbonate solution) will *tend* to cause it to "kick off" or catalyze so quickly that it is makes it difficult to use.
So, I personally recommend leaving the surfactants to vertical or sloped surfaces which you're washing with a chemical other than oxygen bleach.
Where do you get the acid?
The link is in the video description. Here: amzn.to/3Syraxk
Thanks for going straight to the point
Thanks for watching
Love the disclaimer! Brilliant!
Thank you!
Are decks safe if they’ve never been maintained
Neglected decks tend to get slippery due to algae buildup. Slippery decks can be dangerous, so I'd say lack of maintenance can affect a deck's safety.