The float measurement is 10-11.5mm with gasket in place ball not depressed. Not 14mm (forget the manual). Fuel pressure is critical with IDFs no more than 3.5lbs. And if you need to remove the float ever be extremely careful with the brass pin when removing. If you break the aluminum boss arm/s your up shit creek. And be sure and use some thread locker on the butterfly screws. If one comes loose and falls into the engine Boom!. When jetting...leave the mains out and drive with the idle jets only. Get a feel for what the engine is doing (or not doing) then you'll better know whether you need to go up or down on the idle. In the majority of engines a 47.5 idle jet will suffice perfectly at or just above sea level. The proper term to use when the mains come in is...tip in. A bigger air jet will tip the main circuit in sooner as opposed to a smaller air jet. Yes the air jet corrector. It isn't throttle position but flow. I built a Raby 2056cc T-4 for my 1972 bus and jetting is 48.5 idles, 125 mains, 190 air jets, F-11 tubes and LM-2 shows it perfect. I'm slightly above sea level. You need an LM-2 digital air fuel meter. As for a 009 and jetting the only way to get rid of the hesitation is to run a bigger idle jet. You do not lean tune with a centrifugal distributor. Nature of the beast. It is hit & miss in terms of what vacuum (overall) you'll get when using IDFs. Throw a vacuum gauge on it with a long hose and have it up front with you to see what overall vacuum you're getting (you might be surprised). Do not trust the gauge sitting in the garage or driveway while idling it needs a load on it. Always back the accelerator pump nuts out and take them out of the jetting equation when determining your idle and mains. Once you know the idle and mains you need then work on adjusting in the accel pump nuts. i like to have them just far enough in that when I stomp on the pedal there is slight hesitation. End result one should have roughly 1/4in or so of the threaded end sticking out beyond the nut on the accel pump rod.
Quiet night in re-visiting some of these vids on IDFs . 14mm float measurement is recommended by CB and others nowadays due to modern fuel composition i.e. oxygenated/added ethanol. In the US such blends either regional or sessional change the level an IDF carb will close the needle valve. In the UK I try to avoid 10% ethanol fuel , filling up with either 97 or 99 RON octane at the pump. But even with these fuels my brand new original Webers set with 10mm float height ran rich across the mid range only leaning out with wide open throttle. Instead I dialled in a height of ~12.75mm (and a drop of 30mm) for an almost perfect fuel curve (44 IDFs on a 2270 CC type 4)
Good explanation thats the way the Weber works in idle about 1/2 turn max throttle screw ! Rest is other setting LLD jet e.g.55 and CO screw set and very clean Bypass allthe way is needed for good Idle and 4 or 5 transver-holes work and function.
Thanks for yours tips, I just bougth a pair of chinese 40 IDF for my 2110 Project on a Variant II , 1980 brasilian station wagon, I am sure it will save me precius time.
I just ordered 2 of these to replace my empi 40s. I tried to calibrate my throttle plates on the empi 40 like this and now the one barrel let's in double the air of the other barrel on that carb, which is why I'm going to try these out. I can see how the one plate reveals the first progression port about 1mm earlier before the other plate reveals it. But when fully open, they're perfectly aligned, so not bent or anything. Why would trying to calibrate the throttle plates like this cause that since it's supposed to fix it?
My testing has shown me (I could be wrong) that the idle jets are not there for idle, but rather for low load operation. I change my idle jets to give me good operation up to the point of tip-in / progression and then adjust the idle mixture screw to get the idle right. Then I take it one step further and use the idle mixture screw to adjust the very low load drivability (rich or lean). I"m not really concerned about AFR at idle. As long as it idles fine, I'm happy, I'm more concerned about the way the car drives. Good video though. I'm going to pull my EMPI 44s and ensure the throttle plates are set right. I've got a flat spot just off idle at very low load, AFR shows its good but I'm thinking its timing.
I think you're right 👍 This can help everyone who is on a budget plus it makes them think outside the box. Which is one of the goals of this channel. Sera
I'm going to say that most of the tech tips for the Chinese IDFs also would definitely apply to the Weber if you're doing a rebuild. Most of these adjustments only take a few minutes to do.
What kind of exhaust do you run? Did you say sidewinder with 1 1/2 tube? My exhaust is to load and it has 1 5/8 but I lost bottom end power. I have 1 1/2 tube gives bottom end power but I would like to be able to talk to my wife while I drive.. I can't hear in the car with that exhaust. C I run a quite muffler or will that Kill the performance ? I have a 2054 but not real impressed with performance.
what kind of muffler? My car is so load I can't talk to my wife or anyone riding with me. Do you have the tar boards installed between the engine and engine bay? I don't and wondering if that will make a big difference.
Yes I do have the rear very well insulated. The problem is that being in a bug requires you to roll down your windows to get good air circulation in the heat. As Soon as you do that, the noise of the exhaust will drown inside the cabin. I've tried several ways of quieting the drone. The best that I've done is using a turbo muffler that you can get at your local auto parts store for cheap. Now it's extremely quiet even with my windows rolled down. So my advice is you're probably going to have to make your own. I have some videos on how I did that. They might help you with ideas. Good luck By the way I'm actually building a Harley-Davidson exhaust system for The sidewinder on the green bug right now just waiting for some brackets. Video will be up soon.
How do I calibrate or tune the mains on my IDF. It has a nasty flat spot and doesn’t rev out on one stomp. My engine is : 1641 cc High compression pistons Bugpak 4062 Port and polished heads with std valves I use 90 grade fuel.
@@Motor7710 gr8ly appreciated. Given that i run the single / center arb configuration gonna try going back to the 47 primary, the switch the 215 air correction on the main back to a 200, see how that responds. Based on the results, i borrow a 145 from a friend and see what happens. If the results improve, then ill know what to order form Samba. However. Whatever the outcome, i'm gr8ful for ur expalnations, as it has given me more knowledge and confidence to resolve my issues. 🙂
I have the empi knock offs two. I was wondering about taking the dual carbs of and just running one. At the price of gas now I'm thinking Gas milage vs performance but I love the power too.
Other than drilling a 2mm hole jetting will be very different. I definitely see why you would want to go single though. Gas situation is ridiculous. Good luck
Very interesting. I was wondering what was the mesurement of the exhaust pump (the difference between ..,45, 50, 55,...). I understand that is the distance the small ball can go through. Am I correct ? And if that so, the better is to reduce "the value" of this part, right ? To have the system going on earlier. Finally the pump jet will decrease in size, won't it ?
I don't think so. The 55 doesn't mean the distance to the top because you can push the keeper more than 1.00mm and still have plenty of ball rattle when you shake it. In essence the smaller the number de shorter the number the faster it plugs up to get a squirt. My theory is that it's how big or smaller the inner diameter hole of the valve is. The ball will travel quicker and deliver fuel quickly if the hole diameter is smaller versus a bigger hole will have a longer delay.
Would your mod to a zero bypass valve be preferred over ordering say a 55 bypass from European vendors. Do they accomplish the same? Seen a few on eBay.
@@Motor7710 Understood. Thanks for your reply. This make me wondering something else. I'm thinking in a road application context but with high rpm. I observed with higher venturi I get more powerfull high rpm. With my transmission, I down sized this part to get more couple. So now I can use the 4th as a real gear. My bet is : if I go 32->33(34?) on venturi and lower on the exhaust pump, I get 500 rpm more (1000 rpm with 34) and still have "confortable" low rpm, what do you think ? I mean, does the pumps could help to reach the "venturi's rpm" ?
About 65mph I've got a 82 4th gear and 185 /65 R15 rear tires. The funny thing is the type 4 engine runs so cool even in 110f weather. My old type 1 2234cc I had to pay attention to the oil temperature because it didn't like it.
how did you fix the drip?? I think I have the same problem. I have Spanish Webber IDFs. there is a fuel leak from somewhere, I can't find it. Where was yours leaking from?
Either excessive fuel pressure or the float is set too high. When setting the float height it should be 10-11.5mm with the gasket in place and ball NOT depressed (btwn float & carb top).
The float measurement is 10-11.5mm with gasket in place ball not depressed. Not 14mm (forget the manual). Fuel pressure is critical with IDFs no more than 3.5lbs. And if you need to remove the float ever be extremely careful with the brass pin when removing. If you break the aluminum boss arm/s your up shit creek. And be sure and use some thread locker on the butterfly screws. If one comes loose and falls into the engine Boom!. When jetting...leave the mains out and drive with the idle jets only. Get a feel for what the engine is doing (or not doing) then you'll better know whether you need to go up or down on the idle.
In the majority of engines a 47.5 idle jet will suffice perfectly at or just above sea level. The proper term to use when the mains come in is...tip in. A bigger air jet will tip the main circuit in sooner as opposed to a smaller air jet. Yes the air jet corrector. It isn't throttle position but flow. I built a Raby 2056cc T-4 for my 1972 bus and jetting is 48.5 idles, 125 mains, 190 air jets, F-11 tubes and LM-2 shows it perfect. I'm slightly above sea level. You need an LM-2 digital air fuel meter.
As for a 009 and jetting the only way to get rid of the hesitation is to run a bigger idle jet. You do not lean tune with a centrifugal distributor. Nature of the beast. It is hit & miss in terms of what vacuum (overall) you'll get when using IDFs. Throw a vacuum gauge on it with a long hose and have it up front with you to see what overall vacuum you're getting (you might be surprised). Do not trust the gauge sitting in the garage or driveway while idling it needs a load on it. Always back the accelerator pump nuts out and take them out of the jetting equation when determining your idle and mains. Once you know the idle and mains you need then work on adjusting in the accel pump nuts. i like to have them just far enough in that when I stomp on the pedal there is slight hesitation. End result one should have roughly 1/4in or so of the threaded end sticking out beyond the nut on the accel pump rod.
Great info!
Quiet night in re-visiting some of these vids on IDFs . 14mm float measurement is recommended by CB and others nowadays due to modern fuel composition i.e. oxygenated/added ethanol. In the US such blends either regional or sessional change the level an IDF carb will close the needle valve. In the UK I try to avoid 10% ethanol fuel , filling up with either 97 or 99 RON octane at the pump. But even with these fuels my brand new original Webers set with 10mm float height ran rich across the mid range only leaning out with wide open throttle. Instead I dialled in a height of ~12.75mm (and a drop of 30mm) for an almost perfect fuel curve (44 IDFs on a 2270 CC type 4)
Good explanation thats the way the Weber works in idle about 1/2 turn max throttle screw ! Rest is other setting LLD jet e.g.55 and CO screw set and very clean Bypass allthe way is needed for good Idle and 4 or 5 transver-holes work and function.
Thanks for all that info, it’s great that you do and show (proof) your findings, you are valued on this end. I am assuming your exhaust is 1 1/2” ID?
Your good no excess babel well done .thank you for not irritating me with excessive babel .your the best.
Thanks for yours tips, I just bougth a pair of chinese 40 IDF for my 2110 Project on a Variant II , 1980 brasilian station wagon, I am sure it will save me precius time.
Buen trabajo, felicidades
Por favor 🙏, me puede decir en milímetros, las medidas de los cojinetes de los ejes? Para pedirlo por Amazon?
Thanks for all your experience
Your welcome 😊
Where's the link for the bearings
I just ordered 2 of these to replace my empi 40s. I tried to calibrate my throttle plates on the empi 40 like this and now the one barrel let's in double the air of the other barrel on that carb, which is why I'm going to try these out. I can see how the one plate reveals the first progression port about 1mm earlier before the other plate reveals it. But when fully open, they're perfectly aligned, so not bent or anything. Why would trying to calibrate the throttle plates like this cause that since it's supposed to fix it?
My testing has shown me (I could be wrong) that the idle jets are not there for idle, but rather for low load operation. I change my idle jets to give me good operation up to the point of tip-in / progression and then adjust the idle mixture screw to get the idle right. Then I take it one step further and use the idle mixture screw to adjust the very low load drivability (rich or lean). I"m not really concerned about AFR at idle. As long as it idles fine, I'm happy, I'm more concerned about the way the car drives.
Good video though. I'm going to pull my EMPI 44s and ensure the throttle plates are set right.
I've got a flat spot just off idle at very low load, AFR shows its good but I'm thinking its timing.
Good advise about the accelerator pump check valves. I think you would get the same results with using a "0" check valve. Thanks for sharing!
I think you're right 👍
This can help everyone who is on a budget plus it makes them think outside the box. Which is one of the goals of this channel.
Sera
@@Motor7710 Also there is an option of soldering up the hole on the side too.
Buenos tus videos tengo una maquina 1600 y le quiero poner un single weber que marca me recomiendas saludos desde atlanta ga
Great info. Q; do all of the principles apply it a real IDF Weber?
I'm going to say that most of the tech tips for the Chinese IDFs also would definitely apply to the Weber if you're doing a rebuild. Most of these adjustments only take a few minutes to do.
Thanks for making the video. It has a lot of great info. 👍👍
Muy buenos consejos, lo hare
What about accelerator pump tuning?
What kind of exhaust do you run? Did you say sidewinder with 1 1/2 tube? My exhaust is to load and it has 1 5/8 but I lost bottom end power. I have 1 1/2 tube gives bottom end power but I would like to be able to talk to my wife while I drive.. I can't hear in the car with that exhaust. C I run a quite muffler or will that Kill the performance ? I have a 2054 but not real impressed with performance.
I'm running 1 1/2" which is perfect for my 2L bone stock Porsche engine. The engine Dino was 109hp at the flywheel.
what kind of muffler? My car is so load I can't talk to my wife or anyone riding with me. Do you have the tar boards installed between the engine and engine bay? I don't and wondering if that will make a big difference.
Yes I do have the rear very well insulated. The problem is that being in a bug requires you to roll down your windows to get good air circulation in the heat. As Soon as you do that, the noise of the exhaust will drown inside the cabin. I've tried several ways of quieting the drone. The best that I've done is using a turbo muffler that you can get at your local auto parts store for cheap. Now it's extremely quiet even with my windows rolled down. So my advice is you're probably going to have to make your own. I have some videos on how I did that. They might help you with ideas.
Good luck
By the way I'm actually building a Harley-Davidson exhaust system for The sidewinder on the green bug right now just waiting for some brackets. Video will be up soon.
Thank you for replying to me. I really appreciate it and I love your videos
How do I calibrate or tune the mains on my IDF. It has a nasty flat spot and doesn’t rev out on one stomp.
My engine is :
1641 cc
High compression pistons
Bugpak 4062
Port and polished heads with std valves
I use 90 grade fuel.
I would ask the samba for main jet and air corrector size. But It sounds like you're too lean. Also a good wideband makes jetting much easier.
@@Motor7710 gr8ly appreciated. Given that i run the single / center arb configuration gonna try going back to the 47 primary, the switch the 215 air correction on the main back to a 200, see how that responds. Based on the results, i borrow a 145 from a friend and see what happens. If the results improve, then ill know what to order form Samba.
However. Whatever the outcome, i'm gr8ful for ur expalnations, as it has given me more knowledge and confidence to resolve my issues. 🙂
I have the empi knock offs two. I was wondering about taking the dual carbs of and just running one. At the price of gas now I'm thinking Gas milage vs performance but I love the power too.
Other than drilling a 2mm hole jetting will be very different. I definitely see why you would want to go single though. Gas situation is ridiculous.
Good luck
Thank you for your help. Keep up the good work.
Very interesting. I was wondering what was the mesurement of the exhaust pump (the difference between ..,45, 50, 55,...). I understand that is the distance the small ball can go through. Am I correct ? And if that so, the better is to reduce "the value" of this part, right ? To have the system going on earlier.
Finally the pump jet will decrease in size, won't it ?
I don't think so. The 55 doesn't mean the distance to the top because you can push the keeper more than 1.00mm and still have plenty of ball rattle when you shake it. In essence the smaller the number de shorter the number the faster it plugs up to get a squirt. My theory is that it's how big or smaller the inner diameter hole of the valve is. The ball will travel quicker and deliver fuel quickly if the hole diameter is smaller versus a bigger hole will have a longer delay.
Would your mod to a zero bypass valve be preferred over ordering say a 55 bypass from European vendors. Do they accomplish the same? Seen a few on eBay.
@@Motor7710 Understood. Thanks for your reply.
This make me wondering something else. I'm thinking in a road application context but with high rpm. I observed with higher venturi I get more powerfull high rpm. With my transmission, I down sized this part to get more couple. So now I can use the 4th as a real gear. My bet is : if I go 32->33(34?) on venturi and lower on the exhaust pump, I get 500 rpm more (1000 rpm with 34) and still have "confortable" low rpm, what do you think ? I mean, does the pumps could help to reach the "venturi's rpm" ?
Just a question cn those shaft bearings be used on a 48mm delorto trijet carb?
I think they can. My friend John said that they fit perfectly on the Delortor. But I can't be 100% sure. But it only $10 bucks.
Good luck
Srea
OK thanks for the reply.
Nice thanks brother
So, how fast is 2800 rpm in your car, 55-58 mph?
About 65mph
I've got a 82 4th gear and 185 /65 R15 rear tires. The funny thing is the type 4 engine runs so cool even in 110f weather. My old type 1 2234cc I had to pay attention to the oil temperature because it didn't like it.
@@Motor7710 so it cruises on rhe idle circuit even higher than I predicted.
Yes, that is o e of the advantageges with a type 4
how did you fix the drip?? I think I have the same problem. I have Spanish Webber IDFs. there is a fuel leak from somewhere, I can't find it. Where was yours leaking from?
Either excessive fuel pressure or the float is set too high. When setting the float height it should be 10-11.5mm with the gasket in place and ball NOT depressed (btwn float & carb top).
Thanks for a great video! What jets would you run on a single hpmx 40 on a 1776 engine ?
Your best bet is to ask a member on the samba for that particular engine.
Good luck
the BIGGEST con-spiracy is to trivialize "conspiracy theories"