Great job on the servicing of this unit. Enjoyed both your vids 'coz I got mine back from soome work and it's sounding really good.. Am in need of a pair of speaker plugs/jacks for set C.. Seen the knock offs on the bay buy looking for the OEM ones that sit flat agains the plate.. Great job of your work there. Thanks
I guess YES doesn’t block TH-cam videos, huh? lol. I’m working on one of these receivers too… swapped out the caps and transistors/diodes on the power and protection boards.. took it all apart to clean the front panel and then realized the balance pot Grenaded internally after pushing its knob back on 😢
On the note regarding capacitors, I fully understand that customers make requests based on their budget. But customers don't understand that capacitors have multiple ways to fail and in their transition to failure they can and usually affect the next component in line which is usually a transistor but not limited to. Naturally the customer always needs to be educated on the humble capacitor and the fact that even though it shows up good with a quick in circuit ESR test, it doesn't say anything about DC leakage which is probably the reason why that particular capacitor was actually used in that part of the circuit. I personally love capacitors! They come in all sorts of shapes, sizes and colours but I have found that they have a multitude of failure options! My first capacitor tester seemed to be great, it was one of those cheap eBay tester's that also did transistor's, inductors, resistors and diodes but I had to remove any device to test, lazy as I can get, I opted for an in circuit ESR tester. It seemed to save a lot of time being able to pick out capacitors which had really bad ESR! The rest should be apples I thought, well lucky all the equipment that I was working on at the time was my own and it was put into use as soon as it was ready to rock and roll. It didn't take long before things started to fail again. Clearly I was missing something! So I did what anyone else would probably do, I hit TH-cam to see what everyone else is doing to see if I'm doing anything wrong, which explains why I'm here in the first place and in the second place I kinda like to watch ( yeah that sounds creepy I know lol) but it didn't take long before I realized that capacitors are nasty little things. I have since got my hands on an LCR Bridge which not only checks for ESR, but disapation and a whole range of measurement's but of course the capacitor needs to be taken out of circuit. There's an excellent video on this device over on XRayTonyB's channel, it's a silver aluminium case with a lime green LCD screen which displays a lot of information... Well worth watching it if you or anyone else haven't seen it yet, there might be something about capacitors that you either didn't know about or didn't hold high enough priority over, but you can't always change a customer's mind but I feel that it's my duty to let them know that even though I can get it working fast and cheap, I can't guarantee how long for! While the in circuit ESR test is a pass, it's disapation factor could be terrible and thus causing the transistor next in line to run hot and eventually die! So it's back to the repair shop again for more money to be spent or the landfill! But if the device has some sentiment value and needs to be working but the now failed TO66 output transistor is no longer available and hasn't been for a long time, it's going to have to be modified while loosing it's originality... That's another can of worms, I'm sure that you understand... That being said, you have some interesting stuff show up on your bench, I love the vintage car audio stuff that you have been working on which isn't really covered by anyone else... Keep that good stuff coming..
Peter, while I do agree with you mostly I will say this: I have been working on these old Pioneer’s for 30 years and have yet to have one come across my bench with a shorted capacitor in it, open capacitor? Most definitely! but not shorted, that’s not to say it couldn’t (and hasn’t) happened but it’s been my experience with these receivers that depending on the way in which they were used back in the day will determine what problems they develop years later and ultimately what will need to be done in the present but this subject is wide and deep with opinions so I let the customers budget decide the treatment plan, as a buinesss owner I would rather have made some money than none and when you start giving customers ultimatum’s like “it’s all or nothing” they will tell you to GFY lol. Thanks for watching and the great info!
@@luvradios I understand you, but it's not about telling your customers that it's all or nothing, it's about getting them informed so that they make the right choice! You see, if you aren't doing that, you will eventually get someone who returns their equipment that you worked on last week because it's now totally dead and you must have done something to it while you were working on it... Before I got into repairs, I was a customer to someone! Many times in fact, I wish that someone actually gave me a rundown of what can be done and what to expect from it. For example, it can be fixed just enough to get it working which is always the cheapest but it's anyone's guess how soon it's going to die again, if you are fine with that, no problems. Or we can possibly spend some more money and make sure that it's going to run for another 40 year's... Honestly, I will never forget a Denon cassette deck that I had sent in for repair, I got a call to inform me that it's going to cost $90, then a week later I get a call that it's actually going to cost $120 because something else showed up... I said that's fine and that was all that I had got from him! One month later after receiving my cassette deck it died again! Same problem as before, it fired up and everything seems to work except no sound in or out! I didn't go back to him, I had a lot of equipment that needed work and as a customer! I felt like I have been burnt. I had always been interested in electronics since I was a child! I had basic knowledge of electronics but not enough to make repairs but that all changed when I stumbled across "steel wheels down" channel, he explained the operation of a transistor like no one else, sadly he is no longer with us and towards the last videos, you can see that he knew his time was up! Anyway, that was only the beginning for me, it didn't take long to work out everything else, before long I had oscilloscope's in three different sizes, component testers, electronic load's, passive load's and so on! I believe that I have learned from some of the best possible people in the world regarding electronics! All in one place, all on TH-cam! I can see a future without schools already! Here on TH-cam you don't learn something because you have to, you learn it because you enjoy being taught by the people who are doing the teaching! Now here's something that I have learned from my travels on TH-cam which you might find useful, there's a very good reason why vacuum tube amplifiers have and need extremely large output stage transformers! 99.9% of any vacuum tube amplifier schematic diagram that you look at have the same setup! (I also learned how to read and understand amplifier schematics), they all bar a very rare two amplifiers have the B+ high voltage rail's run right through the output stage transformers... So why am I telling you this? Well back in the 60's I think it was, here in Australia... A new trend was taking off, transformerless TV's! They were cheaper and lighter and it was what the world wanted except that Australia didn't, well not it's people but the board of works which was responsible for all the state owned waterworks at the time, back then, the ground wire was tied to the galvanized plumbing and since these new TV's had no transformer, they were being half wave rectified and sending DC back down the plumbing and causing a brand new galvanized pipe to dissolve into the ground via electrolysis and causing the local Stepdown transformer mounted on the power poles to overheat and explode! This effect was published and the rest of the world reacted badly to the news, apparently we were just overreacting but later found it to be true and correct, that when you have an AC system and you imposed DC onto it which is what's going on in the output transformers on a vacuum tube amplifier, you essentially reach the saturation point a huge amount sooner even with milliamps of DC current on top of AC, if you could get rid of the DC from the output transformer (and there's two amplifiers that have achieved this) then you can either obtain much more output with the same transformer or use much smaller and cheaper transformers... So basically the same thing ring's true with modern equipment, it's the reason why there's a capacitor right at the input! It's there to block any DC that might be coming from the source! Being an input, it only takes uA's of DC on top of the AC signal to cause a small signal transistor to heat or become noisy, eventually the capacitor will get worse and kill the transistor or whatever is the weakest link, if there's no decoupling between the buffer stage and the voltage gain stage, or the driver stage before the output power stage then it can go right towards the top! But not all amplifiers are built this bad, the majority with have capacitor decoupling between the different stages and all with varying degrees of DC current leakage... As I said earlier, I love capacitors, they have a lot of different uses but they also have a lot of failure modes.... It saddens me to see you working hard on something like those alpine car equalisers and not check the capacitors for leakage, besides, the existing capacitors have had a hard life inside the hot car interior and it's only a matter of time before another capacitor dies and takes out one of those custom ic's and turns it into landfill... Whoa! Especially that high end Kenwood cassette deck! What a beautiful machine! I have the Kenwood KRC950, it was the first one from the brand to come out with the detachable face! It was reatailing here for $1200 back when I got it new in the 90's, it had 3 pre out's for front, rear and sub. No built in amplifier! But man could this thing play tapes! I might have to make a restoration video on it! Even when the tape had been chewed and it looked like it had been crimped, it played like the tape was new, my home Hifi cassette deck couldn't do that LoL... Anyway I'm getting off topic, I do apologize for the length of this post, I just felt that a little bit of a back story would help get across what and why I'm saying what I do, and besides, restoration videos are a lot more popular than quick fix videos especially when it comes to vintage equipment, the fact that you also do car audio is a bonus, there's another guy from the UK that does car amplifiers, but it's always new high powered stuff, he knows those things like no one else! He is thorough and super fast! I bet that he could do it with his girlfriend's eyes closed! But that's just the problem, it's to efficient, to fast and there's not much talking about anything and it eventually gets monotonous, I've stopped watching, I just can't do it anymore... Having people work on Electronic equipment on TH-cam is a good thing, so far the best channels are coming from the people who will still do it regardless if anyone's watching or not! They are the ones who actually make money from TH-cam funny enough. But they love what they do and they are good at it because of that... I think that what they make financially from TH-cam makes it affordable to put in that extra time and energy to every video that they post, I know how I feel! If they were in my country! I want them to work on everything that I have! And that's the effect that doing a restoration has on people! Hell I can fix my own stuff but I would rather say well, so and so has been over this! It's on his channel! He's like the amplifier whisperer... XRayTonyB had to put a note right at the beginning of each video that it's just a hobby and he's not taking any outside work, he is literally beating people away with a stick! So if you're videos are good, you get lots of views, add revenue and off course lots of work, winner winner chicken dinner 🍴..
I use Goo-Gone for sticky stuff. A few drops on those things, let them soak for about 10 minutes, and they'll practically fall right off. And it won't hurt the finish one bit.
W/ respect to the letters on the front: I find that heat softens adhesives like that used on the letters, and seized lubricants as well for that matter. Try it some time.
Mark, you’re right on the money! I use a pyropen to liquify hardened grease on levers or other mechanical (metal on metal) things, I suppose I could’ve used the spot heater on the letters but they weren’t too bad. Thanks for watching as always!
another great video thank you... I just picked up a Sanyo JCX2900KR receiver real cheap. The left channel was cooked. It had the same problem as this Pioneer. after changing the power IC'S. the left channel was crackling and popping just like yours. I checked all the Transistors like you did with heat and cold spray and then it just stopped and now I cant get it to make noise again. I know its not fixed and I just know it will come back. I was wondering if i could pick your brain a little? Wile I was testing the transistors my hand brushed up against the top of some electrolytic caps. is it normal for a buzzing noise in the speakers when touching the top of the caps with my finger? the caps are 1uf and are pink in color, also they are non polarized but the pcb is labeled for and the schematic calls for polarized ones. they look original is that normal? Any info would be great , thank you.
Yea, it wouldn’t be uncommon for the board and manual to have a printing error , leave the factory non polorized caps in place, touching them with your finger and getting some hum in the amp circuit is normal, the popping will indeed return, leave it off for a day or two and it will more than likely start doing it again. Old Hitachi transistors are notorious for intermittent noise as well as other brands.
@@luvradiosIts been a couple of weeks now and I have tried different ways with it, turned on for a day, turned off for a day or two or three. I plan on replacing all the old transistors but I'm going to wait a little bit I would rather get my hand on the bad part. I wasn't sure about the caps, on two of them if you touch them frim it will blow headphones off your head. thanks for the info, didn't know if I had a grounding problem or not. I really appreciate your help and taking the time to answer questions. thank you very much...
I just bought a SX-737 so this video will be helpful. Would you recommend a full recap of these units? In your opinion, what are the top items that should be done for these units? (other then cleaning) TIA
You probably haven’t watched a lot of my videos or else you would know my opinion on changing every cap in a piece of equipment lol, I’m not a fan of changing parts in a receiver that aren’t bad, if you check all the caps in that 737 with a reputable ESR meter, doubtful you would find more than 15% that are truly bad. If your receiver is working correctly then clean the controls, change any lamps that are bad and leave it alone.
@@luvradios Thanks for the reply. I'm just a newbie and it seems there are two trains of thought. Replace every cap even though some are super high quality and have an "easy life". (Replacing may inject new errors/risk into the system.) The other path is do noting and replace when components fail or are weak. I'd really like to take the path to proactively replace the most vulnerable components but leave the least vulnerable components in tact. I'm not sure how to accomplish that. Yes I can test with an ESR. Thanks again!!
Bob, I do have a reverse cross reference I use but honestly, on these old Pioneer’s there’s tons of information online about the transistors and every other part so if you need info just run it through google and you’ll find what you’re looking for most likely.
@@luvradios problem with the internet searches, there is a ton of bad information out there. I ran into this when I was trying to get the corvette C6 fan controllers to work with an E38 ECM. I finally was able to track the right information down and posted those part numbers on the forums to rid the bad data from continuing to confuse people.
If the switch exhibited any signs of intermittent operation after cleaning then I agree but thoroughly cleaning these switches with a good deoxit provides excellent longevity in my experience.
Great job on the servicing of this unit. Enjoyed both your vids 'coz I got mine back from soome work and it's sounding really good.. Am in need of a pair of speaker plugs/jacks for set C.. Seen the knock offs on the bay buy looking for the OEM ones that sit flat agains the plate.. Great job of your work there. Thanks
jatco, Thanks for checking out the video man!
Thanks for these two videos and your suggestions! I feel much more familiar with the 727 now. 👍🏼
2tall, thanks for checking out the video!
Just picked up this same receiver. This is a very helpful video. And Starship Trooper is also one of my favorites from Yes.
Glenn, thanks for checking out the video!
@@luvradios Is low ESR preferred on capacitors?
Thank you
@@luvradios What subs2sctitute did you use to replace the 2sc2274?
Thank you, very interesting and informative video and excellent background music!
@@SDsailor7 Yes
@@SDsailor7 did I change a 2274 in this receiver?
Excellent work on that Pioneer!
Thank You Rob & thanks for checking out the video!
I guess YES doesn’t block TH-cam videos, huh? lol.
I’m working on one of these receivers too… swapped out the caps and transistors/diodes on the power and protection boards.. took it all apart to clean the front panel and then realized the balance pot Grenaded internally after pushing its knob back on 😢
On the note regarding capacitors, I fully understand that customers make requests based on their budget. But customers don't understand that capacitors have multiple ways to fail and in their transition to failure they can and usually affect the next component in line which is usually a transistor but not limited to. Naturally the customer always needs to be educated on the humble capacitor and the fact that even though it shows up good with a quick in circuit ESR test, it doesn't say anything about DC leakage which is probably the reason why that particular capacitor was actually used in that part of the circuit. I personally love capacitors! They come in all sorts of shapes, sizes and colours but I have found that they have a multitude of failure options! My first capacitor tester seemed to be great, it was one of those cheap eBay tester's that also did transistor's, inductors, resistors and diodes but I had to remove any device to test, lazy as I can get, I opted for an in circuit ESR tester. It seemed to save a lot of time being able to pick out capacitors which had really bad ESR! The rest should be apples I thought, well lucky all the equipment that I was working on at the time was my own and it was put into use as soon as it was ready to rock and roll. It didn't take long before things started to fail again. Clearly I was missing something! So I did what anyone else would probably do, I hit TH-cam to see what everyone else is doing to see if I'm doing anything wrong, which explains why I'm here in the first place and in the second place I kinda like to watch ( yeah that sounds creepy I know lol) but it didn't take long before I realized that capacitors are nasty little things. I have since got my hands on an LCR Bridge which not only checks for ESR, but disapation and a whole range of measurement's but of course the capacitor needs to be taken out of circuit. There's an excellent video on this device over on XRayTonyB's channel, it's a silver aluminium case with a lime green LCD screen which displays a lot of information... Well worth watching it if you or anyone else haven't seen it yet, there might be something about capacitors that you either didn't know about or didn't hold high enough priority over, but you can't always change a customer's mind but I feel that it's my duty to let them know that even though I can get it working fast and cheap, I can't guarantee how long for! While the in circuit ESR test is a pass, it's disapation factor could be terrible and thus causing the transistor next in line to run hot and eventually die! So it's back to the repair shop again for more money to be spent or the landfill! But if the device has some sentiment value and needs to be working but the now failed TO66 output transistor is no longer available and hasn't been for a long time, it's going to have to be modified while loosing it's originality... That's another can of worms, I'm sure that you understand...
That being said, you have some interesting stuff show up on your bench, I love the vintage car audio stuff that you have been working on which isn't really covered by anyone else... Keep that good stuff coming..
Peter, while I do agree with you mostly I will say this: I have been working on these old Pioneer’s for 30 years and have yet to have one come across my bench with a shorted capacitor in it, open capacitor? Most definitely! but not shorted, that’s not to say it couldn’t (and hasn’t) happened but it’s been my experience with these receivers that depending on the way in which they were used back in the day will determine what problems they develop years later and ultimately what will need to be done in the present but this subject is wide and deep with opinions so I let the customers budget decide the treatment plan, as a buinesss owner I would rather have made some money than none and when you start giving customers ultimatum’s like “it’s all or nothing” they will tell you to GFY lol. Thanks for watching and the great info!
@@luvradios I understand you, but it's not about telling your customers that it's all or nothing, it's about getting them informed so that they make the right choice! You see, if you aren't doing that, you will eventually get someone who returns their equipment that you worked on last week because it's now totally dead and you must have done something to it while you were working on it...
Before I got into repairs, I was a customer to someone! Many times in fact, I wish that someone actually gave me a rundown of what can be done and what to expect from it. For example, it can be fixed just enough to get it working which is always the cheapest but it's anyone's guess how soon it's going to die again, if you are fine with that, no problems. Or we can possibly spend some more money and make sure that it's going to run for another 40 year's...
Honestly, I will never forget a Denon cassette deck that I had sent in for repair, I got a call to inform me that it's going to cost $90, then a week later I get a call that it's actually going to cost $120 because something else showed up... I said that's fine and that was all that I had got from him! One month later after receiving my cassette deck it died again! Same problem as before, it fired up and everything seems to work except no sound in or out! I didn't go back to him, I had a lot of equipment that needed work and as a customer! I felt like I have been burnt. I had always been interested in electronics since I was a child! I had basic knowledge of electronics but not enough to make repairs but that all changed when I stumbled across "steel wheels down" channel, he explained the operation of a transistor like no one else, sadly he is no longer with us and towards the last videos, you can see that he knew his time was up! Anyway, that was only the beginning for me, it didn't take long to work out everything else, before long I had oscilloscope's in three different sizes, component testers, electronic load's, passive load's and so on! I believe that I have learned from some of the best possible people in the world regarding electronics! All in one place, all on TH-cam! I can see a future without schools already! Here on TH-cam you don't learn something because you have to, you learn it because you enjoy being taught by the people who are doing the teaching!
Now here's something that I have learned from my travels on TH-cam which you might find useful, there's a very good reason why vacuum tube amplifiers have and need extremely large output stage transformers!
99.9% of any vacuum tube amplifier schematic diagram that you look at have the same setup! (I also learned how to read and understand amplifier schematics), they all bar a very rare two amplifiers have the B+ high voltage rail's run right through the output stage transformers...
So why am I telling you this? Well back in the 60's I think it was, here in Australia... A new trend was taking off, transformerless TV's! They were cheaper and lighter and it was what the world wanted except that Australia didn't, well not it's people but the board of works which was responsible for all the state owned waterworks at the time, back then, the ground wire was tied to the galvanized plumbing and since these new TV's had no transformer, they were being half wave rectified and sending DC back down the plumbing and causing a brand new galvanized pipe to dissolve into the ground via electrolysis and causing the local Stepdown transformer mounted on the power poles to overheat and explode! This effect was published and the rest of the world reacted badly to the news, apparently we were just overreacting but later found it to be true and correct, that when you have an AC system and you imposed DC onto it which is what's going on in the output transformers on a vacuum tube amplifier, you essentially reach the saturation point a huge amount sooner even with milliamps of DC current on top of AC, if you could get rid of the DC from the output transformer (and there's two amplifiers that have achieved this) then you can either obtain much more output with the same transformer or use much smaller and cheaper transformers...
So basically the same thing ring's true with modern equipment, it's the reason why there's a capacitor right at the input! It's there to block any DC that might be coming from the source! Being an input, it only takes uA's of DC on top of the AC signal to cause a small signal transistor to heat or become noisy, eventually the capacitor will get worse and kill the transistor or whatever is the weakest link, if there's no decoupling between the buffer stage and the voltage gain stage, or the driver stage before the output power stage then it can go right towards the top! But not all amplifiers are built this bad, the majority with have capacitor decoupling between the different stages and all with varying degrees of DC current leakage...
As I said earlier, I love capacitors, they have a lot of different uses but they also have a lot of failure modes.... It saddens me to see you working hard on something like those alpine car equalisers and not check the capacitors for leakage, besides, the existing capacitors have had a hard life inside the hot car interior and it's only a matter of time before another capacitor dies and takes out one of those custom ic's and turns it into landfill... Whoa! Especially that high end Kenwood cassette deck! What a beautiful machine! I have the Kenwood KRC950, it was the first one from the brand to come out with the detachable face! It was reatailing here for $1200 back when I got it new in the 90's, it had 3 pre out's for front, rear and sub. No built in amplifier! But man could this thing play tapes! I might have to make a restoration video on it! Even when the tape had been chewed and it looked like it had been crimped, it played like the tape was new, my home Hifi cassette deck couldn't do that LoL... Anyway I'm getting off topic, I do apologize for the length of this post, I just felt that a little bit of a back story would help get across what and why I'm saying what I do, and besides, restoration videos are a lot more popular than quick fix videos especially when it comes to vintage equipment, the fact that you also do car audio is a bonus, there's another guy from the UK that does car amplifiers, but it's always new high powered stuff, he knows those things like no one else! He is thorough and super fast! I bet that he could do it with his girlfriend's eyes closed! But that's just the problem, it's to efficient, to fast and there's not much talking about anything and it eventually gets monotonous, I've stopped watching, I just can't do it anymore... Having people work on Electronic equipment on TH-cam is a good thing, so far the best channels are coming from the people who will still do it regardless if anyone's watching or not! They are the ones who actually make money from TH-cam funny enough. But they love what they do and they are good at it because of that... I think that what they make financially from TH-cam makes it affordable to put in that extra time and energy to every video that they post, I know how I feel! If they were in my country! I want them to work on everything that I have! And that's the effect that doing a restoration has on people! Hell I can fix my own stuff but I would rather say well, so and so has been over this! It's on his channel! He's like the amplifier whisperer... XRayTonyB had to put a note right at the beginning of each video that it's just a hobby and he's not taking any outside work, he is literally beating people away with a stick! So if you're videos are good, you get lots of views, add revenue and off course lots of work, winner winner chicken dinner 🍴..
Excuse me, Doctor, are you self-medicating?
@@2tallB no! Are you?
I use a spray release agent to take off items
I use Goo-Gone for sticky stuff. A few drops on those things, let them soak for about 10 minutes, and they'll practically fall right off. And it won't hurt the finish one bit.
W/ respect to the letters on the front: I find that heat softens adhesives like that used on the letters, and seized lubricants as well for that matter. Try it some time.
Mark, you’re right on the money! I use a pyropen to liquify hardened grease on levers or other mechanical (metal on metal) things, I suppose I could’ve used the spot heater on the letters but they weren’t too bad. Thanks for watching as always!
another great video thank you... I just picked up a Sanyo JCX2900KR receiver real cheap. The left channel was cooked. It had the same problem as this Pioneer. after changing the power IC'S. the left channel was crackling and popping just like yours. I checked all the Transistors like you did with heat and cold spray and then it just stopped and now I cant get it to make noise again. I know its not fixed and I just know it will come back. I was wondering if i could pick your brain a little? Wile I was testing the transistors my hand brushed up against the top of some electrolytic caps. is it normal for a buzzing noise in the speakers when touching the top of the caps with my finger? the caps are 1uf and are pink in color, also they are non polarized but the pcb is labeled for and the schematic calls for polarized ones. they look original is that normal? Any info would be great , thank you.
Yea, it wouldn’t be uncommon for the board and manual to have a printing error , leave the factory non polorized caps in place, touching them with your finger and getting some hum in the amp circuit is normal, the popping will indeed return, leave it off for a day or two and it will more than likely start doing it again. Old Hitachi transistors are notorious for intermittent noise as well as other brands.
@@luvradiosIts been a couple of weeks now and I have tried different ways with it, turned on for a day, turned off for a day or two or three. I plan on replacing all the old transistors but I'm going to wait a little bit I would rather get my hand on the bad part. I wasn't sure about the caps, on two of them if you touch them frim it will blow headphones off your head. thanks for the info, didn't know if I had a grounding problem or not. I really appreciate your help and taking the time to answer questions. thank you very much...
I just bought a SX-737 so this video will be helpful. Would you recommend a full recap of these units? In your opinion, what are the top items that should be done for these units? (other then cleaning) TIA
You probably haven’t watched a lot of my videos or else you would know my opinion on changing every cap in a piece of equipment lol, I’m not a fan of changing parts in a receiver that aren’t bad, if you check all the caps in that 737 with a reputable ESR meter, doubtful you would find more than 15% that are truly bad. If your receiver is working correctly then clean the controls, change any lamps that are bad and leave it alone.
@@luvradios Thanks for the reply. I'm just a newbie and it seems there are two trains of thought. Replace every cap even though some are super high quality and have an "easy life". (Replacing may inject new errors/risk into the system.) The other path is do noting and replace when components fail or are weak. I'd really like to take the path to proactively replace the most vulnerable components but leave the least vulnerable components in tact. I'm not sure how to accomplish that. Yes I can test with an ESR. Thanks again!!
Thanks for doing the video. Do you have a handy cross reference on vintage Pioneer transistor cross reference to new part numbers?
Bob, I do have a reverse cross reference I use but honestly, on these old Pioneer’s there’s tons of information online about the transistors and every other part so if you need info just run it through google and you’ll find what you’re looking for most likely.
@@luvradios problem with the internet searches, there is a ton of bad information out there. I ran into this when I was trying to get the corvette C6 fan controllers to work with an E38 ECM. I finally was able to track the right information down and posted those part numbers on the forums to rid the bad data from continuing to confuse people.
Bob, excellent point! There is a ton of shyt info on the internet about all subjects lol.
not entirely professional repair. The switch needs to be disassembled and cleaned, such repair is only for a short time.
If the switch exhibited any signs of intermittent operation after cleaning then I agree but thoroughly cleaning these switches with a good deoxit provides excellent longevity in my experience.