I remember blowing the needle right off my dad's Simpson 260 series 3. I was always destroying his tools. I don't know why he never killed me. I still have the meter, with the needle in pieces, bouncing around inside. I miss him.
I broke a lot of my father's tools also. Just one of many of the reasons that I never had kids of my own. And yes, he loved his Simpson 260s, used one at his job (R&M electrician) almost until the day he retired.
I work in telecom and carry both a Fluke 177, which gets used the most, and a trusty old Simpson 260. The Fluke DMM is utterly useless when trying to look for cable faults, specifically grounds, on copper cable that has AC power influence on it. The Simpson will show the fault no problem but the Fluke will not due to the interference of the induced AC. Good analog meters still due have a place in this day and age.
I also have to use it to catch quick high voltage pulses when working on an HDSL circuit because the DMM doesn't seem to update quick enough to see them most of the time. Seeing the needle jump to 180VDC is much easier. Accuracy is not part of the equation, visualization is.
One of the best reasons I've heard to use an analog multimeter is when measurements are being made in an extremely cold environment (like outdoors during Canadian winters ;) ). When it's very cold that's when LCD displays start slowing down making it difficult to take measurements and analog displays continue without any noticeable problems. At least that's been my experience.
The exact reason I have one. It is much easier to peak something when you watch a needle peak and not numbers counting. A digital one that shows you some sort of graph will work but a simple analog multimeter is much easier. Same with RF power. Use whatever meter you want but at the end of the day an analog Bird 43 meter is the standard and what you will be judged with.
We were forced in the school to use analog multimeters, although the digital at that era existed... the reason (according to teacher) - to understand, how it works. I hated it.
I have 6 meters in my workshop but I still use the analog one when testing transistors in audio work. The reason it makes life easier for me just taking a glance at the pointer and see the angle instead of reading the digits in a digital multi meter. Testing resistance with a DMM sometimes will give erratic readings to a pre energized circuit. Even the slightest voltage will disturb the readings and I have to disconnect the particular resistor to get the true reading. Electrolytic capacitors will hold a small voltage even when switched off for a long time.
analog meters are irreplaceable for audio measurement and adjustment, as the needle 'moves less' than a typical digital meter. I use an analog AC millivolt meter when I calibrate tape decks, near impossible to do with a digital meter. Having said that though, for most other measurements, digital is the way to go. But, analog meters do have their preferred uses in certain applications.
My dad had a Simpson 260 and I would use it all the time. I got excited when digital meters came out, but my dad liked the Simpsons because if you have an intermittent circuit, the needle on the Simpson will respond and give you an instant result.
I find analog meters useful for checking pots for dead spots. I'll have to try a digital on one again and see if the bargraph can show a deadspot. Thanks for the video Dave.
Its a very useful tool to have. I find there is nothing faster when doing troubleshooting. I set the meter where I can have it in my peripheral vision when I'm poking around taking rough measurements. Obviously a DMM will be more accurate and have better resolution, I have lots of Flukes. It's not a matter of which is a better meter, its using the right tool for the job.
I think one of the huge benefit of starting with an analogue multimeter - I got my first in 1982 - was it gave you a good grip on measurement error early on: as Dave pointed out, these things are less accurate than their digital counterparts, the resolution was quite low and you'd better be sure you were dead in front of the thing to read it correctly.
Friend of mine found one use for an analog meter, he had an issue where his car battery kept running flat (some years ago now). He tested with a DMM to see how much current was being drawn when the car was off, saw a lot of bugger all. Connected an analog meter, saw it kicking about once a second, of all things it was the clock.
Dave, I just love your videos the most. The rhyme or reason being your ability to HIGHLIGHT and speak boldly on the loopholes even on the greatest brands like Fluke or Simpson in that matter. Thanks for highlighting all the points of pros & cons. I was about to loss handsome amount on a particular analog meter. I will drop the idea of purchasing now. Loved it!
Sure I use DMMs now, but I miss analogs for one reason : when checking an expected voltage, I could register the needle position within a corner of my eye, not having to directly look at the meter, thus knowing whether I've found, say, 12V or not. With DMMs, even with bar graph - you have to look into the display. I find DMMs to be measurement instruments, while analogs are representation instruments.
Exactly the same reason why many cockpit instruments, pressure indicators, etc. use an analog style display. I say analog style, because the displays are purely digital. A lot of the "analog multimeters are better because..." reasons - other than the ones about very niche applications (GHz AC?) for which I'm sure there are niche DMMs available - are similarly not actually about how the multimeter fundamentally functions, but about how the information gets displayed. Swap out the fixed-segment LCDs for a matrix one (given prices, just go full graphical TFT LCD) and now you can display accurate values as well as graphical presentations however you design it - from a classic analog meter look through to a basic and dirty 'oscilloscope' view.
If you try to measure 10V and the meter rapidly jumps between 9.xx and 10.00 V, makes it look like you have almost 20 V if you don't think hard enough. What could be better than if your altitude appears to be twice as high as it really is? (:
True you need to interpret digits, but reading analog you just look. My Fluke has a bar graph at bottom of the display and is very handy sometimes. Look at aircraft instruments important (spatial) ones are always analog. Who wants a digital clock? not me.
I remember an upright video game, 3 other techs in shop thought roms were bad. 2nd player score was between 1st player and centered high score. Digital meters showed a bang on 12v supply. My analog swung from 12 down to 8v. Confused, i used a scope and saw the short dip to 8v. One leg of brute force power supply filter cap had broken. Currently i see a fluke meter blackout a 4 micro amp signal, and a couple of other digital meters require a little swag to filter out the effects of non 60 hertz signals. But ohms, i still prefer digital.
I get this, so true! The better DMM for automotive use have those functions built into them though, so you can hear or see lights for + or - 12 volts and much more.
I still use an analog meter (and a VTVM at that) when doing RF alignments. Much easier to tune for a peak or dip using an analog meter, even compared to the bargraph on my Fluke DMMs. The "output" jack on a VOM was intended to be fed out to an oscilloscope, typically used for looking at ripple on power supply rails.
I agree, even with a Fluke and the graphing indicator it still isn't as easy to do RF alignments, as it is with a VTVM. RF alignments is the only use now days I have for my VTVM.
Testing pots/varistors/switches for dead (open/short) spots can't really be done with a digital. My most common use is testing throttle position sensors on vehicles. Analog meters make that test stupid easy. Digital meters miss at least 15% due to refresh rate. All I need to see is the needle jump reliably at the same place 3 tests in a row and you're never going to find that with a digital. That's pretty much the only thing I use my old analogs for. Or if the batteries are dead in the digitals and I need a voltage measurement now.
It is hard to beat a cluster of analog meters to quickly give you a quick idea that the process you are monitoring is working or something is going amuck. They will always have their place. They aren't better nor worse, they are simply different.
Exactly, perfect for e.g. showing that a bunch of temperatures in your process are close to perfect (needle vertical), a bit below/above, a lot below/above, ... All by having even only a swift glance at the panel. Even led vu-meters aren't as good for that. Of course, these aren't multimeters anymore.
No one uses analog meters anymore? Be sure to tell Simpson and Triplett and Sanwa and Gossen and all the rest of the manufacturers that still make them.
Being competent in using an AMM is a valuable skill that any field-tech or engineer should have. They might not be as convenient as a DMM but sometimes AMMs are all you've got to work with.
they are still used on the american railroad for checking for grounds in the non grounded dc system. I used them when I worked for Norfolk southern railway and we had a digital meter but all track and grounds checks were done with simpson 113. here is the meter we used www.simpsonelectric.com/products/test-equipment/special-test-equipment/ts113-multimeter-for-railroad
It's not because it's better, it's just not cost effective, practical to change the procedures and equipment out and have to retrain and document. You can still buy some really old meters new and their whole market is because procedures and procurement are too hard to change. The above could be a life or death situation, changing everything is risky unless they get something out of it.
Analogue meters still have their place, all the workshops I worked in had one somewhere. I still have my first meter, a Maplin analogue multimeter from 1988 - with transistor tester!! (Sadly Maplin Electronics in the UK has just shut down)
Maplin was a shadow of its former self. I still have a section of the catalog I tore out which showed the pinouts for all the ICs they sold. Why do all technical stores end up going that way?
both are the best in their own way, you can't beat the instant beeping and hight input impedance of a digital multimeter, but you can't deny how robust the analog is if you mess things up
We still love our old 8-bit computers and videogames, old cars, LP records, tube radios .. yes, the modern digital multimeter is better in just about every way, but sometimes you just want to enjoy something old that still works.
I used to use analog meters to find resonant peaks and dips of loudspeaker response by monitoring current drawn from the supply of a small amplifier. Much easier to see than the changing digits. The bar graph was useless for this too (not enough resolution).
One thing I noticed with the analog meters is that they help illustrate conceptualized and applied electrical theory, so they might still be rather useful for educational purposes.
Last time I used a analog meter was to get diagnostic output codes from ODBII diagnostic port on a car. Keep track of the LONG and SHORT needle movement. Worked back in the 90's when I needed it. :)
OMG! That Tandy-bought Micronta was my first multimeter model when i was a kid too. Cool to see it again. Mine only lasted couple of years, and died after I discovered that you shouldn’t accidentally leave it on ohms when you test a live 240v socket. Whoops!
For my hobby I have a 100k, 60k and 10k DMM, but in my boat I still have this 60 year old AMM from my dad which is perfect there: - Never empty battery (biggest advantage for a meter hardly used) - Excellent to see if there's a voltage or if the battery is full or empty - Very short touch to see if there are big amps without blowing a fuse
I have the same Micronta multimeter that Dave had as his first meter. My first meter too ! They were sold well into the 1980s by Tandy. Still works, although it's had new probes a few times!
Ultimately i think you need to have both types of meters, a DMM thats at 5 1/2 digits or 6 1/2 digits resolution for the quantitative work and an analog meter for troubleshooting circuits and field service. Same with Digital vs Analog o-scopes, there are certain things that each type will do better. Nothing better than an old Tek 2467 for a fast capture or looking at RF. But just the same I love having a digital o-scope with its serial decode and signal analysis functionality
It's a matter of preference. I love my analog meters, which are excellent in 'Yep, the anode voltage is right around 170v' in circuits where it doesn't matter if it's 5% lower or higher. Or in high frequency environments that interfere with the digital electronics. I use a digital meter too, in high impedance circuits.
Hey Dave? I just completed performing Electrical measurements at tafe as part of my diesel fitting apprenticeship. This video, if it was shortened would be super useful for the teachers to explain the differences between the tools. If you make a shorter version i would link it to my teachers.
This takes me back to my days at college (Early 80's) when we used AVO8's, nice one Dave. You showed the very same meter I bought from Tandy back in the day at 1:10. It's important to make sure the analog meter is in the off position during transit as the switch shorts out the meter to stop it from moving too much...this can be seen 24:44.
I tend to agree that the old technology and ways should not be completely discarded and forgotten just because they have been displaced. At a minimum it would be useful if they were still documented, new better might come from these older things. On a side note, I did petition the FCC to keep the Morse code requirement in the highest amateur radio license, but the Morse code requirement has been removed. I guess it is OK, there is still Morse on the air, but, as Dave might say, I wonder if it is only gray hairs using it.
I am a HVAC contractor and for measuring starting amperage for a compressor an analog amprobe is superior, digital does not react quick enough. Although some of the newer digital amprobe (clamp meters) do record inrush amperage.
2 main advantages of VOMs: Low Z for eliminating Ghost Voltages and AC Bandwidth of 2+MHz, the DMMs barely can go measure above 1k (Chinese), 20k (good brands) 100k (high end).
The only thing that was better for me was when I repaired TVs and other electronics. The low input impedance often helped me find errors because a fault in the circuit usually made it react in a non-normal way when I measured at that point. It was also easier to just fast glance over and see that "something" is measured. A digital could sometimes be hopeless with the numbers jumping around. Sometimes you dont know if you got contact or not because of the high impedance. The fact that it works without batteries is also a plus as mentioned. Especially if you want to have a multimeter in a place you seldom need it.
I used until yesterday a old chap analog multimeter of my dad. Now I moved to a an8008. All looks simpler with a digital meter. (I switched mainly for the diode mode and the ohm meter easier to read)
My dad still swears by old school analog meters. He says it's a user interface issue, and claims a digital readout will never be able to replace a needle/gauge type display. I have to admit, in some applications he makes a good point. Seeing the needle bounce in relation to fluctuations is a much better indicator than some digital segmented numbers flippin all around.
A few days ago i tried to measure supply current of Z-scale train model, and cheap DMM (I realise that advanced models can do that better, but I have only 830-clone, without bargraph) gave something reliable only for stalled motor. While running, an old analog meter gave me not precise, but more adequate information about current. So, one of analog meter advantages - working with noisy signals (If you need an easy averaging, NOT the noise and short spikes detection). But you still have to check everything with scope while troubleshooting power supply issues. And there were combined models, with digital display and analog needle, for those who have not decided yet. :) (Sorry for mistakes, english is not my native language)
At 12:44 your point about DC input resistance, re circuit loading is well taken & understood. No debate. HOWEVER I have a Triplett 603 analog multimeter that specs out at 11 Meg Ohms DC input resistance and 10 Meg Ohms AC. Yes I also own several DMM too.
You cannot beat an analog multimeter for checking small DC motors. Using the ohm Rx1 scale, you can immediately see if the motor has dead spots (shorts and opens) at various angles by how much the meter jumps around. Shoot, you don't even need to turn the motor shaft by hand to check it too as most analog VOMs will spin the motor. Even will tell you if the bearings are binding. To a less extent, peaking or adjusting for a null is a little better on an analog meter. But yes, for every thing else, you cannot beat modern DVM.
I have the Micronta on the left, almost. It's Not labeled "FET Analog" and where the DC10A jack is is an "Output" jack is. I keep it around because it has the fastest most sensitive continuity latching of any of my multimeters. It will detect continuity through 3lbs blocks of steel with oxidized surfaces and it's instant.
i had one this analog suckers laying around, and i gotta say. Best thing is no battery power, can be used permanently on battery terminal to measure volts for days, reliability, extreme temps, low cost, and REPAIRABILITY...
I used the Simpson 260 in the Navy in the early 1970's and the case style and the meter markings font were different. We were trained about to compensate for the meter impedance, if need be. I have the RS 22-201 version since the 1970's and I still use it! I also used a VTVM, the forerunner of the FET meter.
Same here, analog meters still rules when it comes to setting a peak voltage, or when measuring a null voltage. It is a lot easier to glance at a needle verses trying to figure out what the digital meter is showing.
Each and evry magnetic measuring head is most accurate at 2/3 traveling distanse of the needle. So even with the most accurate measuring head, your instrument is as good as there are many overlaping ranges, so that you can put measured value around these 2/3-rds. Still, for max-ing and tunning something you have to turn with screwdriver or turn-knob it is the best.
IF you want to quickly see , yes there is some voltage there very quickly , analoug is better ( look at the clare PAT gear , analoug meter is super quick and nice and easy to see)
I use an analog meter mostly for checking transistors for any leakage between the pins in the reverse mode using x1k and sometimes x10k scale. Something you cannot measure with a digital meter on the ohms range and diode test as the voltage is too low.
1) No batteries except for resistance. 2) Needle deflection is very intuitive. A quick glance and you know whether you are in the ball park. There is no need to distract your intellect with abstract numbers. This is another reason DMMs emulate needle deflection with bar graphs. 3) Lower input impedance actually is useful for detecting open alternating circuits with substantial capacitive coupling such as electricians might need.
I remember one trick we used to do with an analog meter is to estimate current/voltage in situations where they are over-range. Experienced person can roughly estimate the voltage/current by looking at how fast the needle is moving. Basically you just touch the probe very quickly so that the needle does not hit the limiter on the other end. You are pretty much out of luck when using a digital meter if the measurement is out of range.
Yes I used to do that a lot and it is unlikely you will burn out the movement as they are generally protected. There is no doubt that DMM's are generally better but anyone that dismisses analog meters out of hand does not understand how to use them.
Analog meters are quite robust indeed. As long as the needle does not bang pass the limit, it can take quite a bit of overload. One thing I forgot to mention is that Analog meters are not vulnerable from EM interference and can usually operate within a much higher temperature range.
Kerry Wong Even analog meters are subject to the effects of electromagnetism. Their probe leads still pickup RF, particularly when you have AM modulated at a rather low frequency, and the meter movement is indeed influenced by strong magnetic fields. Not sure why you would assume they are unaffected.
Nice to see the 121GW getting used in your videos. Enjoyed the video. I figured you would really drive the point home by showing some of the higher end features a meter like the 121GW can do that the analog meters can not.
They can also be useful for the education market, i.e. being able to demonstrate the decay factor in a capacitor in front of a classroom etc. So niche not really a big plus, but I still remember that from some university lectures.
The thing that bugs me most about digital meters is the damn things turn them selves off after a few idle minutes. Ok, it may save battery life but it annoys the crap out of me!
Peaking circuits in old radios it is easier to make with analogs. Other than that I just go for my DMM's, there so comvenient and accurate. It is great to have both :-)
Analog meters are a really quick way to test a large capacitor, set on ohms hook up the leads. Meter will show a low ohms reading then as the capacitor charges reading will show up as an increase in ohms, just watch the needle. Works great with the larger capacitors used in the automotive industry, or in heavy equipment
In transistor testing digital multimeter can only identify the base the collector and emitter cannot be identified even if its in diode testing or ohms function. The Analog Multimeter can identify the emitter, collector and base respectively. Also Analog multimeter even without batteries you can test voltage AC and DC if you ran out of battery. So its handy to have both analog and digital if you are a hobbyist. Of course nothing beats the digital multimeter nowadays because of functions are being squeezed in these multimeters. Like the Fluke you can have a full featured multimeter. With accessories you can have temperature and the clamp accessory you can have the non contact clamp function.
The nice thing about analogue meters is the ability to become acustomed to using periphery vision. This is the main advantage over a digital display which requires you to stop look, focus and think. The analogue meter in many instances allows much faster and more productive results. The 'bar graph' is not comparable in most meters.. Though it it what you are used to and get accustomed to which is best in the end.
My first meter was a Micronta 22-212, I think it was an 11th or 12th birthday gift, I loved that thing, no idea what happened to it though, I've been digital for years...
another application where an analog would work better is if you have a circuit that moves the analog scale in a specific, unique pattern (like slowly up half scale, a little down, then up all the way, and then slowly back down), that is easy to visually remember. And then it becomes very easy to test another circuit of that kind, because human visual memory is very good.
Peaking RF circuits in older radio gear and VTVMs for circuits sensitive to loading. Also quite a few digital meters produce RF noise. That's about it ...
Remember too that the 2% or 1.5% was of the full scale for that range. So care had to be taken to assure that readings were in the upper part of the range to achieve better accuracy. I had forgotten what a pain in the behind analog multimeters were. I was a bigger fan of the VTVM because of input impedance problem
It sounds like the no energy requirement for volts/amps could be useful till this day. Also, maybe if you were planning for the end of the world you would want one of these instead of a DMM? For me though, just having a digital display is so much easier and quicker than having to read it and pay attention to which scale you're on and where you are supposed to be relative to that scale. Similar to a mechanical watch vs a digital display watch. It's just quicker and easier to read out the numbers as they appear rather than calculating it based on distance traveled.
For my first 10 years I used analog meters and I did feel a little 'detached' from circuits when I started switching to digital meters. The feel you get when using an analog meter is not available on digital meters. A bit like getting a car with power steering. Yes digital meters are mostly more accurate but how many people need the 7th digit of their 7 digit meter (or even the 3rd digit)? A great deal of meter work does not need high degrees of accuracy and analog meter 'feedback' is much better and can be an advantage for some uses. Simply focusing on accuracy may be a little misleading. I have to confess that I now only use analog meters when repairing old valve equipment but they are better for some limited purposes.
A basic 5V supply spec is 4.75V to 5.25V. You can't even verify such a basic thing with an analog meter with an accuracy of 2% and barely a 3rd digit. I said they are still useful for niche purposes.
Definitely know what you mean about the feeling you get from an analog meter, they do have a fun factor. Having that needle move makes you feel that much closer to the circuit since it's directly powered by the circuit. Who doesn't love a nice analog display on a power supply or radio, makes you feel like you're in a mad scientist lab! I don't use them myself for everyday measurements but they can have their use on things such as Variacs and panel mounted stuff so that you don't always need to be down another meter.
I used them for that very purpose for many years and could even see if there was excess ripple. I did say they were not as accurate as many digital meters but even a digital meter needs to be used with caution with regards to accuracy. Just because a meter reads 5.25237856 volts does not mean that the voltage is 5.25237856 volts. Digital meters have a 'needle width'. However, as I said in my original comment I rarely use analog meters any more but I would still recommend anyone wanting to get into electronics to get one and use it for a while for the same reason I would also recommend getting an analog scope. Build a ramp generator circuit at 0.5Hz and watch a digital meter compared to an analog one. This is not really what I would describe as a niche purpose so much as a useful visual aid to learning electronics.
All my mcu DC designs work at let say 5.003 or 5.1 using several DMMs the same way as if the needle on my taylor 100a settles at that "5" ;) And we don´t speak tubes Amps here....they don´t even care about whenever it´s 480 or 520Volts on their plates...;) Dave..? what´s that thing with the resolution for, we cried about it in the old days, now that we have it...nobody cares much...;)
TubiCal, I have been an embedded systems designer for 35 years and my company develops high precision instrumentation and RF equipment and as I said I mostly use DMM's and in fact I need 7 digits for our precision designs but my point is that for a huge amount of work an analog meter will work but my main point is that they are a very useful learning tool. Actually many MCU's don't care if they are running at 3.5 or 5V. It is only when you start getting into the lower voltage units that it becomes more important. I have even pointed out in previous video's that when taking accurate measurements there are other things to be taken into account such as thermocouple contact errors etc and as many people do not take this into account you can assume that they are not reaching the full potential of highly accurate DMM's. If I saw a 40v error on tube plates then I would look for the fault. Why not have a go at aligning an FM discriminator using a DMM compared to an analog meter and you will see the point.
The 'fluctuation' thing isn't, or isn't in my opinion, what is demonstrated here. It's actually the analogue meters ability to show readings quickly out of the corner of your eye. As in, when you are quickly dabbing circuits to trace voltage paths, you can concentrate on the test points without having to really look at the meter reading, as experience tells you where abouts the needle should be on the scale. On a digital readout you need to pointedly look at the display to see the reading. Although I do concede this is just about the only advantage analogues have, but then generally it's only relevant for service work on old TV's and radio's. Back then the veteran service hack would have all the readings for the typical sets arriving on the bench, stored in his head, so as long as his AVO had the needle in the general vicinity thats all that was needed. Which brings me to the MAJOR point here, Dave, you haven't lived until you've seen and used an AVO 8. Someone send him one please, for a strip and tell vid! The AVO was a system meter with a huge array of accessories, like range extenders (upto 1000 amps I believe!!) for amps, volts and resistance, even a 25KV probe! Overload protection was provided by an inertia cutout, which basically isolated the meter when the needle hit the end stop with more than a preset force! They are wonderful things, I have quite a collection of them with accessories, leather cases etc. Still use one to work on vintage stuff.
But Dave I still use my analog insulation resistance meter everyday, much easier to find electrical faults over a slow digital type. Especially if the fault is random, you can see the needle fluctuate as the digital types tend to dick around.
What about reading possible defective potentiometers and rheostat's. In the Navy we had to keep old Simpson 260s analog meters on hand just for those test. They would help detect burn spots/worn carbon traces as the contacts would slide over the range of the potentiometer/Rheostats. On a digital meter it just looks like the meter is normally searching for a value.
That exactly the point ... most of the time precision does not matter but have ability to "see" what is going on is priceless ... Also people more easily remember angle of needle of "safe value" than read value and think if it is OK or not ...
One great use for the analog meters is tuning filters, watching for a 'dip' or a 'peak' is much easier on an analog. The other time it is useful is when repairing old equipment where the manufacturer specified a 10KOhm/Volt meter was used in the adjustment and alignment of the equipment. There are some analog meters that have a 5KV input range, I don't think there are many digital meters that do. My Kamoden HT-100B4 for example has a 1KV range, 100MOhm input to 1KV DC, DC100KOhm /V AC12.5KOhm/V, and 10uA, 0.25mA, 2.5mA, 25mA , 250mA and 10A ranges.
When you discuss the input impedance of the analog meters, you're ignoring VTVMs, which were always preferred for sensitive circuits. VOMs were for electricians or very simple troubleshooting. The FET meters you briefly alluded to at the beginning were a replacement for VTVMs, and effectively a DVM frontend tired to a analog meter movement.
There is one exception where you might need analog MMs; when the service manual says the measurements was taken with a 20k or 5k input impedance voltmeter, digital ones will read higher values.
When I worked for my Uncle I did handle the Simpson 260 meter ! Thank you for the video ! tjl P.S. Also liked the Frequency Selective Volt Meter... Had a loose wire for the input and a Speaker on the output... !
Analog meters are great for schools. Their "bigger problems" make nice teaching subjects like for example their influence on a circuit when probing. In some occasion a analog meter can be very handy (slowly moving signals for example).
With my comment on AC measurements I was referring to the low accuracy at lower ranges because of the voltage drop over the rectifier diodes. Even if the digital meter doesn't have true RMS, it is still superior.
This reminds me of having to learn how to use one of these old fashioned slide rules in Mathematics at school back in the day when I was a boy! And me and my classmates all had an electronic calculator in our rucksacks. Jeeeess! Rolleyes!
I have both and use both. When I need 3+ places of accuracy, I opt for the digital. When I need absolute reliability, I opt for analog V-O-M. Battery only used for resistance readings. When I need superior sensitivity, I opt for either an FET VOM or a VTVM. They are less prone to give erratic readings if noise in presents that a DVM. I very rarely need such accuracy, however. So when i choose a DVM t'generally for the smaller size, portability and lower cost. Expensive test gear is for RF use where I'm concerned. I never had any problem with multiplication of division by 10. I would NEVER try to see an AC component supered on DC wit ANY meter. What's the point? When I want to see a rapidly fluctuating voltage, it's "audio", which should ALWAYS be measured with a VU meter, whether analog or digilog.
I'd like to add another huge unexpected con of most digital meters: aliasing For example, we use a Fluke 8840A (bench meter) in the lab where we design power converters among other stuff. When measuring a DC voltage in a DC-AC inverter, it often has a superimposed 50Hz ripple. It's not unusual to have some 200mV of ripple while measuring a 1.5V thing. And I've seen the Fluke give a very repeatable reading a dozen times a second, but it sllloowly drifts around the correct value. I guess that it samples in sync with the AC grid, and as the inverter's frequency might be 50.05Hz vs the grid's 50Hz, the aliasing produces a DC error that drifts in 0.05Hz intervals. Which also means that you can have a quite ripply DC supply , and when you check the stability using a good bench meter, you get a deceptively satisfying stable digital reading at a very wrong DC level. I rarely use analog meters, they are inaccurate, but they double as a low-freq oscilloscope when you don't think you need one. Otherwise, it's always better to use a digital meter with an analog readout, but it's very important to have an in-depth understanding of the possible quirks of the equipment you're using.
I bought my first meter in the 60's. I was 10 or 11 at the time and 'messed' around with both valve and transistor equipment. Had to learn how to use the meter properly as I really didn't want to damage it or me. Getting the tongue at the right angle came out of the invaluable lessons learn't then. Now, as a 'greybeard' amongst other meters I have, in pride of place is my Brymark BM869S. It is accurate enough for my needs and has more functions than I need (or understand). Nevertheless I won't get rid of my analogue meters as for a few purposes they are better suited than digital. Use the right tool for the job!
Still use an old cheap analog mm as a spare meter. Accuracy is plenty good for quick checks of circuit functionality, like mains or power supplies. And no 4.9999 display for 5V minus insignificant error.
They are definitely regulated to special use case situations now... I only ever use them for one thing. They put out enough voltage in resistance mode to deflect the course and fault flags of older analog avionics indicators. Makes for an easy check if there is a problem with the indicator or the signal source. Some guys like to claim they are better for continuity checks, as you can see if a wire has a bit of resistance, from a bad splice... But continuity checks on a DMM gives a readout in ohms. As long as you are not going strictly by the beep, and looking at the meter reading, you will catch anything like that with a DMM as well. Now some of the older Fluke DMMs and maybe others, combined continuity and diode as a single function, and while you may see something of you have a bit of voltage drop, it's not as straight forward as a seeing an Ohm readout... Seeing as most new DMMs have a separate continuity function, that advantage is removed as well.
I've got many digital meters, but my go to troubleshooting device is the good old Simpson 260. It has been for 35 years and always will be. The analog meter gives at a glance indications of capacitor charge ability, speaker resistance, transients, and transistor/capacitor leakage. I guess if you're an engineer the digital meter would be all you'd need. Techs have to fix things quickly in order to make any money at all. None of this spend days and weeks determining you've got a leaky part rubbish. You have to fix the product yesterday. And who can read the tiny symbols on those meters. My Fluke has the k and ohm symbols so small I have to put magnifiers on and point a flashlight at it to tell the difference.
Another disadvantage of the analog VOM is lack of durability. As many of us greybeards can attest to they don't hold up very well to the drop from the workbench to the floor. The black Bakelite shatters and the meter movement is whacked. An advantage to the loading effect comes into play when checking for A.C. voltages out in the field. A high impedance DMM may indicate voltages are present when they are simply EMI voltages from adjacent wires. Besides nostalgia, and inheritance, there is the fun factor. Walk onto a job site these days with your trusty old Simpson 260 or Triplett 630. First question is, "Does it work?" and second question is, "Do you know how to use it?"
I remember blowing the needle right off my dad's Simpson 260 series 3. I was always destroying his tools. I don't know why he never killed me. I still have the meter, with the needle in pieces, bouncing around inside. I miss him.
The last part. So sweet. Seriously.
I broke a lot of my father's tools also. Just one of many of the reasons that I never had kids of my own. And yes, he loved his Simpson 260s, used one at his job (R&M electrician) almost until the day he retired.
becuase in some cases to left a victim alive is a greater punishment
i was like that w my granddad good times. But i usually fixed things. I miss him too man.
He is in our heart.
I work in telecom and carry both a Fluke 177, which gets used the most, and a trusty old Simpson 260. The Fluke DMM is utterly useless when trying to look for cable faults, specifically grounds, on copper cable that has AC power influence on it. The Simpson will show the fault no problem but the Fluke will not due to the interference of the induced AC. Good analog meters still due have a place in this day and age.
I also have to use it to catch quick high voltage pulses when working on an HDSL circuit because the DMM doesn't seem to update quick enough to see them most of the time. Seeing the needle jump to 180VDC is much easier. Accuracy is not part of the equation, visualization is.
YEEEEEESSSSSSSSSSSSSS.
@@suzukiman650 The peak min max function on a DMM would capture that transient.
exactly
do you think to make an informative video?
One of the best reasons I've heard to use an analog multimeter is when measurements are being made in an extremely cold environment (like outdoors during Canadian winters ;) ). When it's very cold that's when LCD displays start slowing down making it difficult to take measurements and analog displays continue without any noticeable problems. At least that's been my experience.
I live in Houston Texas, so that's never been a problem for me!
I disagree with you
I love analog stuff and collect them. But oh god people come up with all sorts of excuse to say analogs meters are still relevant.
The analog db scale comes in handy when you want to calibrate audio equipment. That and RF alignments are the reason I keep the Simpson 260 around.
The exact reason I have one. It is much easier to peak something when you watch a needle peak and not numbers counting. A digital one that shows you some sort of graph will work but a simple analog multimeter is much easier. Same with RF power. Use whatever meter you want but at the end of the day an analog Bird 43 meter is the standard and what you will be judged with.
We were forced in the school to use analog multimeters, although the digital at that era existed... the reason (according to teacher) - to understand, how it works.
I hated it.
But, he is right.
The instructor is right.. still using analog for troubleshooting electronics
Main advantage of analog IMO: no batteries required for volts and amps. Handy if you just want to wire the meter(s) in and forget about it.
or if your batteries are always flat lol
Very useful in 'peaking' some rf stages when you just want to see the peak rather than digits going up and down.
Don't basically all DMMs have a max function?
@@flybackrs but they don’t measure RF voltages worth a darn!
Thats what the bar graph’s for fam
@@flybackrs Yes they do and some better bench DMM even better functions for doing RF stages, but I don't thing most people know.
I have 6 meters in my workshop but I still use the analog one when testing transistors in audio work. The reason it makes life easier for me just taking a glance at the pointer and see the angle instead of reading the digits in a digital multi meter. Testing resistance with a DMM sometimes will give erratic readings to a pre energized circuit. Even the slightest voltage will disturb the readings and I have to disconnect the particular resistor to get the true reading. Electrolytic capacitors will hold a small voltage even when switched off for a long time.
I still remember being disappointed when I found out that the "output" function wasn't a voltage source
Me too. Some people think it's good for coupling to a scope, but scopes have AC coupling anyway so it's kinda moot.
I thought I was the only one.
It's called OUTPUT because you can connect it to the anode of an audio valve and measure the output audio signal.
I wonder what is that reset button for!? Schematic didn't show it...
@@gianlucalocri You clearly didn't pay attention
analog meters are irreplaceable for audio measurement and adjustment, as the needle 'moves less' than a typical digital meter. I use an analog AC millivolt meter when I calibrate tape decks, near impossible to do with a digital meter. Having said that though, for most other measurements, digital is the way to go. But, analog meters do have their preferred uses in certain applications.
My dad had a Simpson 260 and I would use it all the time. I got excited when digital meters came out, but my dad liked the Simpsons because if you have an intermittent circuit, the needle on the Simpson will respond and give you an instant result.
I find analog meters useful for checking pots for dead spots. I'll have to try a digital on one again and see if the bargraph can show a deadspot. Thanks for the video Dave.
Its a very useful tool to have. I find there is nothing faster when doing troubleshooting. I set the meter where I can have it in my peripheral vision when I'm poking around taking rough measurements. Obviously a DMM will be more accurate and have better resolution, I have lots of Flukes. It's not a matter of which is a better meter, its using the right tool for the job.
Exactly
I think one of the huge benefit of starting with an analogue multimeter - I got my first in 1982 - was it gave you a good grip on measurement error early on: as Dave pointed out, these things are less accurate than their digital counterparts, the resolution was quite low and you'd better be sure you were dead in front of the thing to read it correctly.
Friend of mine found one use for an analog meter, he had an issue where his car battery kept running flat (some years ago now).
He tested with a DMM to see how much current was being drawn when the car was off, saw a lot of bugger all. Connected an analog meter, saw it kicking about once a second, of all things it was the clock.
@Bilde Rothchild he didnt have a pulse meter but had an analog meter on hand
I can find that problem with a DMM as well. I always do it.
Dave, I just love your videos the most. The rhyme or reason being your ability to HIGHLIGHT and speak boldly on the loopholes even on the greatest brands like Fluke or Simpson in that matter. Thanks for highlighting all the points of pros & cons. I was about to loss handsome amount on a particular analog meter. I will drop the idea of purchasing now. Loved it!
Same here
Sure I use DMMs now, but I miss analogs for one reason : when checking an expected voltage, I could register the needle position within a corner of my eye, not having to directly look at the meter, thus knowing whether I've found, say, 12V or not.
With DMMs, even with bar graph - you have to look into the display.
I find DMMs to be measurement instruments, while analogs are representation instruments.
Exactly the same reason why many cockpit instruments, pressure indicators, etc. use an analog style display. I say analog style, because the displays are purely digital.
A lot of the "analog multimeters are better because..." reasons - other than the ones about very niche applications (GHz AC?) for which I'm sure there are niche DMMs available - are similarly not actually about how the multimeter fundamentally functions, but about how the information gets displayed. Swap out the fixed-segment LCDs for a matrix one (given prices, just go full graphical TFT LCD) and now you can display accurate values as well as graphical presentations however you design it - from a classic analog meter look through to a basic and dirty 'oscilloscope' view.
If you try to measure 10V and the meter rapidly jumps between 9.xx and 10.00 V, makes it look like you have almost 20 V if you don't think hard enough. What could be better than if your altitude appears to be twice as high as it really is? (:
True you need to interpret digits, but reading analog you just look. My Fluke has a bar graph at bottom of the display and is very handy sometimes. Look at aircraft instruments important (spatial) ones are always analog. Who wants a digital clock? not me.
I remember an upright video game, 3 other techs in shop thought roms were bad. 2nd player score was between 1st player and centered high score. Digital meters showed a bang on 12v supply. My analog swung from 12 down to 8v. Confused, i used a scope and saw the short dip to 8v. One leg of brute force power supply filter cap had broken.
Currently i see a fluke meter blackout a 4 micro amp signal, and a couple of other digital meters require a little swag to filter out the effects of non 60 hertz signals.
But ohms, i still prefer digital.
I get this, so true! The better DMM for automotive use have those functions built into them though, so you can hear or see lights for + or - 12 volts and much more.
I still use an analog meter (and a VTVM at that) when doing RF alignments. Much easier to tune for a peak or dip using an analog meter, even compared to the bargraph on my Fluke DMMs.
The "output" jack on a VOM was intended to be fed out to an oscilloscope, typically used for looking at ripple on power supply rails.
I assumed they were all DC coupled and without the cap, there is no way to strip the DC from a biased signal.
I agree, even with a Fluke and the graphing indicator it still isn't as easy to do RF alignments, as it is with a VTVM.
RF alignments is the only use now days I have for my VTVM.
And it probably has a true jeweled d'arsonval movement. I once had some heathkit and rca vtvm's...a "voltohmyst" i think i remember as well.
Testing pots/varistors/switches for dead (open/short) spots can't really be done with a digital. My most common use is testing throttle position sensors on vehicles. Analog meters make that test stupid easy. Digital meters miss at least 15% due to refresh rate. All I need to see is the needle jump reliably at the same place 3 tests in a row and you're never going to find that with a digital. That's pretty much the only thing I use my old analogs for. Or if the batteries are dead in the digitals and I need a voltage measurement now.
Is just a meter of interpretation
It is hard to beat a cluster of analog meters to quickly give you a quick idea that the process you are monitoring is working or something is going amuck. They will always have their place. They aren't better nor worse, they are simply different.
Exactly, perfect for e.g. showing that a bunch of temperatures in your process are close to perfect (needle vertical), a bit below/above, a lot below/above, ... All by having even only a swift glance at the panel. Even led vu-meters aren't as good for that.
Of course, these aren't multimeters anymore.
No one uses analog meters anymore? Be sure to tell Simpson and Triplett and Sanwa and Gossen and all the rest of the manufacturers that still make them.
I disagree. Analog are much better at seeing trends. Plus they don’t need batteries for amps and voltage.
@@ronvaliant9337 i bet my pc notifying me when some value changes is superior over checking a multimeter every 5 secs...
@@jonny393 LOL Yeah and it's real convenient to carry a pc with you everywhere you want to make a measurement like on a boat or an rv.
@@ronvaliant9337 then i would maybe just take an oscilloscope with me instead of an oscilloscope sized Analog Multimeter
@@jonny393 Then you also have to plug it in so don't forget a generator. lol
Being competent in using an AMM is a valuable skill that any field-tech or engineer should have. They might not be as convenient as a DMM but sometimes AMMs are all you've got to work with.
analog meters keep your brain alive...you need to know what you´re doing....:)
they are still used on the american railroad for checking for grounds in the non grounded dc system. I used them when I worked for Norfolk southern railway and we had a digital meter but all track and grounds checks were done with simpson 113. here is the meter we used www.simpsonelectric.com/products/test-equipment/special-test-equipment/ts113-multimeter-for-railroad
It's not because it's better, it's just not cost effective, practical to change the procedures and equipment out and have to retrain and document. You can still buy some really old meters new and their whole market is because procedures and procurement are too hard to change. The above could be a life or death situation, changing everything is risky unless they get something out of it.
Analogue meters still have their place, all the workshops I worked in had one somewhere. I still have my first meter, a Maplin analogue multimeter from 1988 - with transistor tester!! (Sadly Maplin Electronics in the UK has just shut down)
Maplin was a shadow of its former self. I still have a section of the catalog I tore out which showed the pinouts for all the ICs they sold. Why do all technical stores end up going that way?
both are the best in their own way, you can't beat the instant beeping and hight input impedance of a digital multimeter, but you can't deny how robust the analog is if you mess things up
We still love our old 8-bit computers and videogames, old cars, LP records, tube radios .. yes, the modern digital multimeter is better in just about every way, but sometimes you just want to enjoy something old that still works.
I miss the Simpson 260. That was our standard issue model when I was an electronics technician in the Navy back in the 90s.
I used to use analog meters to find resonant peaks and dips of loudspeaker response by monitoring current drawn from the supply of a small amplifier. Much easier to see than the changing digits. The bar graph was useless for this too (not enough resolution).
They now have pretty decent handheld oscilloscopes.
One thing I noticed with the analog meters is that they help illustrate conceptualized and applied electrical theory, so they might still be rather useful for educational purposes.
Last time I used a analog meter was to get diagnostic output codes from ODBII diagnostic port on a car. Keep track of the LONG and SHORT needle movement. Worked back in the 90's when I needed it. :)
Analog meters do a great job of averaging the reading. On some digitals the display is just random numbers making it difficult to see the average.
OMG! That Tandy-bought Micronta was my first multimeter model when i was a kid too. Cool to see it again. Mine only lasted couple of years, and died after I discovered that you shouldn’t accidentally leave it on ohms when you test a live 240v socket. Whoops!
For my hobby I have a 100k, 60k and 10k DMM, but in my boat I still have this 60 year old AMM from my dad which is perfect there:
- Never empty battery (biggest advantage for a meter hardly used)
- Excellent to see if there's a voltage or if the battery is full or empty
- Very short touch to see if there are big amps without blowing a fuse
As a telephone tech working outside in the field I used an analog meter every day, I found it very useful.
I have the same Micronta multimeter that Dave had as his first meter. My first meter too ! They were sold well into the 1980s by Tandy. Still works, although it's had new probes a few times!
Ultimately i think you need to have both types of meters, a DMM thats at 5 1/2 digits or 6 1/2 digits resolution for the quantitative work and an analog meter for troubleshooting circuits and field service.
Same with Digital vs Analog o-scopes, there are certain things that each type will do better. Nothing better than an old Tek 2467 for a fast capture or looking at RF. But just the same I love having a digital o-scope with its serial decode and signal analysis functionality
It's a matter of preference. I love my analog meters, which are excellent in 'Yep, the anode voltage is right around 170v' in circuits where it doesn't matter if it's 5% lower or higher. Or in high frequency environments that interfere with the digital electronics.
I use a digital meter too, in high impedance circuits.
A definite improvement in digital multimeters is NO auto-ranging!
That's the RANGE button is for.
Hey Dave? I just completed performing Electrical measurements at tafe as part of my diesel fitting apprenticeship. This video, if it was shortened would be super useful for the teachers to explain the differences between the tools. If you make a shorter version i would link it to my teachers.
This takes me back to my days at college (Early 80's) when we used AVO8's, nice one Dave.
You showed the very same meter I bought from Tandy back in the day at 1:10.
It's important to make sure the analog meter is in the off position during transit as the switch shorts out the meter to stop it from moving too much...this can be seen 24:44.
I still have my dad's Simpson 260 Series 7P analog meter, in the 7PRT roll top case! Fantastic!
Well yes analog meters aren't that common now but we just can't forget the workhorse of the thing that basically propelled us into the digital age.
I tend to agree that the old technology and ways should not be completely discarded and forgotten just because they have been displaced. At a minimum it would be useful if they were still documented, new better might come from these older things.
On a side note, I did petition the FCC to keep the Morse code requirement in the highest amateur radio license, but the Morse code requirement has been removed. I guess it is OK, there is still Morse on the air, but, as Dave might say, I wonder if it is only gray hairs using it.
I never said forget them. I said there are still niche uses for them, and that's why you can still buy them.
EEVblog oh I didn't mean you said to forget them. Generally people don't really know now.
I am a HVAC contractor and for measuring starting amperage for a compressor an analog amprobe is superior, digital does not react quick enough. Although some of the newer digital amprobe (clamp meters) do record inrush amperage.
I still use a couple of old AVO MK 8's for old valve radios.
It's really good to know how it was done back in the day. Makes you appreciate the lack of hassle you don't have to go through now.
2 main advantages of VOMs: Low Z for eliminating Ghost Voltages and AC Bandwidth of 2+MHz, the DMMs barely can go measure above 1k (Chinese), 20k (good brands) 100k (high end).
The only thing that was better for me was when I repaired TVs and other electronics. The low input impedance often helped me find errors because a fault in the circuit usually made it react in a non-normal way when I measured at that point. It was also easier to just fast glance over and see that "something" is measured. A digital could sometimes be hopeless with the numbers jumping around. Sometimes you dont know if you got contact or not because of the high impedance.
The fact that it works without batteries is also a plus as mentioned. Especially if you want to have a multimeter in a place you seldom need it.
I used until yesterday a old chap analog multimeter of my dad. Now I moved to a an8008.
All looks simpler with a digital meter. (I switched mainly for the diode mode and the ohm meter easier to read)
My dad still swears by old school analog meters. He says it's a user interface issue, and claims a digital readout will never be able to replace a needle/gauge type display. I have to admit, in some applications he makes a good point. Seeing the needle bounce in relation to fluctuations is a much better indicator than some digital segmented numbers flippin all around.
A few days ago i tried to measure supply current of Z-scale train model, and cheap DMM (I realise that advanced models can do that better, but I have only 830-clone, without bargraph) gave something reliable only for stalled motor. While running, an old analog meter gave me not precise, but more adequate information about current.
So, one of analog meter advantages - working with noisy signals (If you need an easy averaging, NOT the noise and short spikes detection).
But you still have to check everything with scope while troubleshooting power supply issues.
And there were combined models, with digital display and analog needle, for those who have not decided yet. :)
(Sorry for mistakes, english is not my native language)
At 12:44 your point about DC input resistance, re circuit loading is well taken & understood. No debate. HOWEVER I have a Triplett 603 analog multimeter that specs out at 11 Meg Ohms DC input resistance and 10 Meg Ohms AC. Yes I also own several DMM too.
You cannot beat an analog multimeter for checking small DC motors. Using the ohm Rx1 scale, you can immediately see if the motor has dead spots (shorts and opens) at various angles by how much the meter jumps around. Shoot, you don't even need to turn the motor shaft by hand to check it too as most analog VOMs will spin the motor. Even will tell you if the bearings are binding. To a less extent, peaking or adjusting for a null is a little better on an analog meter. But yes, for every thing else, you cannot beat modern DVM.
I have the Micronta on the left, almost. It's Not labeled "FET Analog" and where the DC10A jack is is an "Output" jack is.
I keep it around because it has the fastest most sensitive continuity latching of any of my multimeters. It will detect continuity through 3lbs blocks of steel with oxidized surfaces and it's instant.
I still have my Taylor 88B, a cousin of the Avo 8 when both were owned by Thorn. It still has it's uses and I still love it.
You can hear the needle tick when you overload it.
The "oh shit" twang!
Also Known as ping "fuckit"
I don't know what you're talking abou....OK I do. One never forgets the sound of "you've bleeped up."
My Philips has a relay protecting the circuit. It does CLACK - oh fuck .
Especially when the boss is looking over your shoulder. All you can do is say, "Oops."
i had one this analog suckers laying around, and i gotta say. Best thing is no battery power, can be used permanently on battery terminal to measure volts for days, reliability, extreme temps, low cost, and REPAIRABILITY...
I used the Simpson 260 in the Navy in the early 1970's and the case style and the meter markings font were different. We were trained about to compensate for the meter impedance, if need be. I have the RS 22-201 version since the 1970's and I still use it! I also used a VTVM, the forerunner of the FET meter.
Dave put up a half hour video comparing digital vs analog meters? Oh yeah! Good on ya Dave!
Same here, analog meters still rules when it comes to setting a peak voltage, or when measuring a null voltage. It is a lot easier to glance at a needle verses trying to figure out what the digital meter is showing.
I disagree with you.
Let’s just call analog meters a “Trap for old players...”
You have much to learn grasshopper.
How do you think they got to make your 6 1/2 digit Keysight... using the crap analog meters.
TBF, damn near any meter is crap compared to that (expensive, but got what you paid for) meter.
Each and evry magnetic measuring head is most accurate at 2/3 traveling distanse of the needle. So even with the most accurate measuring head, your instrument is as good as there are many overlaping ranges, so that you can put measured value around these 2/3-rds. Still, for max-ing and tunning something you have to turn with screwdriver or turn-knob it is the best.
IF you want to quickly see , yes there is some voltage there very quickly , analoug is better ( look at the clare PAT gear , analoug meter is super quick and nice and easy to see)
I use an analog meter mostly for checking transistors for any leakage between the pins in the reverse mode using x1k and sometimes x10k scale. Something you cannot measure with a digital meter on the ohms range and diode test as the voltage is too low.
1) No batteries except for resistance.
2) Needle deflection is very intuitive. A quick glance and you know whether you are in the ball park. There is no need to distract your intellect with abstract numbers. This is another reason DMMs emulate needle deflection with bar graphs.
3) Lower input impedance actually is useful for detecting open alternating circuits with substantial capacitive coupling such as electricians might need.
I remember one trick we used to do with an analog meter is to estimate current/voltage in situations where they are over-range. Experienced person can roughly estimate the voltage/current by looking at how fast the needle is moving. Basically you just touch the probe very quickly so that the needle does not hit the limiter on the other end. You are pretty much out of luck when using a digital meter if the measurement is out of range.
yes this is possible if you know the exact inertia of your instrument and some physics you can calculate the measured value
Sounds like a easy way to burn out the movement, or bend the crapp out of the needle. Which I seen happen.
Yes I used to do that a lot and it is unlikely you will burn out the movement as they are generally protected. There is no doubt that DMM's are generally better but anyone that dismisses analog meters out of hand does not understand how to use them.
Analog meters are quite robust indeed. As long as the needle does not bang pass the limit, it can take quite a bit of overload. One thing I forgot to mention is that Analog meters are not vulnerable from EM interference and can usually operate within a much higher temperature range.
Kerry Wong Even analog meters are subject to the effects of electromagnetism. Their probe leads still pickup RF, particularly when you have AM modulated at a rather low frequency, and the meter movement is indeed influenced by strong magnetic fields. Not sure why you would assume they are unaffected.
Nice to see the 121GW getting used in your videos. Enjoyed the video. I figured you would really drive the point home by showing some of the higher end features a meter like the 121GW can do that the analog meters can not.
They can also be useful for the education market, i.e. being able to demonstrate the decay factor in a capacitor in front of a classroom etc. So niche not really a big plus, but I still remember that from some university lectures.
The thing that bugs me most about digital meters is the damn things turn them selves off after a few idle minutes. Ok, it may save battery life but it annoys the crap out of me!
Yeah, an analog meter doesnt even need any batteries to measure voltage/current.
@@dickcheney6 Reason, why I still have one around.
Peaking circuits in old radios it is easier to make with analogs. Other than that I just go for my DMM's, there so comvenient and accurate. It is great to have both :-)
I don’l like that the digital meter jumps everywhere as it autoranges, the analog meter shows meter movement.
Analog meters are a really quick way to test a large capacitor, set on ohms hook up the leads. Meter will show a low ohms reading then as the capacitor charges reading will show up as an increase in ohms, just watch the needle. Works great with the larger capacitors used in the automotive industry, or in heavy equipment
In transistor testing digital multimeter can only identify the base the collector and emitter cannot be identified even if its in diode testing or ohms function. The Analog Multimeter can identify the emitter, collector and base respectively. Also Analog multimeter even without batteries you can test voltage AC and DC if you ran out of battery. So its handy to have both analog and digital if you are a hobbyist. Of course nothing beats the digital multimeter nowadays because of functions are being squeezed in these multimeters. Like the Fluke you can have a full featured multimeter. With accessories you can have temperature and the clamp accessory you can have the non contact clamp function.
The old analog technology. My brother actually has an analog multimeter from the soviet era, very precise and well calibrated.
The nice thing about analogue meters is the ability to become acustomed to using periphery vision. This is the main advantage over a digital display which requires you to stop look, focus and think. The analogue meter in many instances allows much faster and more productive results. The 'bar graph' is not comparable in most meters.. Though it it what you are used to and get accustomed to which is best in the end.
My first meter was a Micronta 22-212, I think it was an 11th or 12th birthday gift, I loved that thing, no idea what happened to it though, I've been digital for years...
another application where an analog would work better is if you have a circuit that moves the analog scale in a specific, unique pattern (like slowly up half scale, a little down, then up all the way, and then slowly back down), that is easy to visually remember. And then it becomes very easy to test another circuit of that kind, because human visual memory is very good.
Peaking RF circuits in older radio gear and VTVMs for circuits sensitive to loading. Also quite a few digital meters produce RF noise. That's about it ...
Yes, peaking is probably one of the few remaining uses.
Remember too that the 2% or 1.5% was of the full scale for that range. So care had to be taken to assure that readings were in the upper part of the range to achieve better accuracy. I had forgotten what a pain in the behind analog multimeters were. I was a bigger fan of the VTVM because of input impedance problem
It sounds like the no energy requirement for volts/amps could be useful till this day. Also, maybe if you were planning for the end of the world you would want one of these instead of a DMM?
For me though, just having a digital display is so much easier and quicker than having to read it and pay attention to which scale you're on and where you are supposed to be relative to that scale. Similar to a mechanical watch vs a digital display watch. It's just quicker and easier to read out the numbers as they appear rather than calculating it based on distance traveled.
For my first 10 years I used analog meters and I did feel a little 'detached' from circuits when I started switching to digital meters. The feel you get when using an analog meter is not available on digital meters. A bit like getting a car with power steering. Yes digital meters are mostly more accurate but how many people need the 7th digit of their 7 digit meter (or even the 3rd digit)? A great deal of meter work does not need high degrees of accuracy and analog meter 'feedback' is much better and can be an advantage for some uses. Simply focusing on accuracy may be a little misleading. I have to confess that I now only use analog meters when repairing old valve equipment but they are better for some limited purposes.
A basic 5V supply spec is 4.75V to 5.25V. You can't even verify such a basic thing with an analog meter with an accuracy of 2% and barely a 3rd digit.
I said they are still useful for niche purposes.
Definitely know what you mean about the feeling you get from an analog meter, they do have a fun factor. Having that needle move makes you feel that much closer to the circuit since it's directly powered by the circuit. Who doesn't love a nice analog display on a power supply or radio, makes you feel like you're in a mad scientist lab! I don't use them myself for everyday measurements but they can have their use on things such as Variacs and panel mounted stuff so that you don't always need to be down another meter.
I used them for that very purpose for many years and could even see if there was excess ripple. I did say they were not as accurate as many digital meters but even a digital meter needs to be used with caution with regards to accuracy. Just because a meter reads 5.25237856 volts does not mean that the voltage is 5.25237856 volts. Digital meters have a 'needle width'. However, as I said in my original comment I rarely use analog meters any more but I would still recommend anyone wanting to get into electronics to get one and use it for a while for the same reason I would also recommend getting an analog scope. Build a ramp generator circuit at 0.5Hz and watch a digital meter compared to an analog one. This is not really what I would describe as a niche purpose so much as a useful visual aid to learning electronics.
All my mcu DC designs work at let say 5.003 or 5.1 using several DMMs the same way as if the needle on my taylor 100a settles at that "5" ;)
And we don´t speak tubes Amps here....they don´t even care about whenever it´s 480 or 520Volts on their plates...;)
Dave..? what´s that thing with the resolution for, we cried about it in the old days, now that we have it...nobody cares much...;)
TubiCal, I have been an embedded systems designer for 35 years and my company develops high precision instrumentation and RF equipment and as I said I mostly use DMM's and in fact I need 7 digits for our precision designs but my point is that for a huge amount of work an analog meter will work but my main point is that they are a very useful learning tool. Actually many MCU's don't care if they are running at 3.5 or 5V. It is only when you start getting into the lower voltage units that it becomes more important. I have even pointed out in previous video's that when taking accurate measurements there are other things to be taken into account such as thermocouple contact errors etc and as many people do not take this into account you can assume that they are not reaching the full potential of highly accurate DMM's. If I saw a 40v error on tube plates then I would look for the fault. Why not have a go at aligning an FM discriminator using a DMM compared to an analog meter and you will see the point.
The 'fluctuation' thing isn't, or isn't in my opinion, what is demonstrated here. It's actually the analogue meters ability to show readings quickly out of the corner of your eye. As in, when you are quickly dabbing circuits to trace voltage paths, you can concentrate on the test points without having to really look at the meter reading, as experience tells you where abouts the needle should be on the scale. On a digital readout you need to pointedly look at the display to see the reading. Although I do concede this is just about the only advantage analogues have, but then generally it's only relevant for service work on old TV's and radio's. Back then the veteran service hack would have all the readings for the typical sets arriving on the bench, stored in his head, so as long as his AVO had the needle in the general vicinity thats all that was needed.
Which brings me to the MAJOR point here, Dave, you haven't lived until you've seen and used an AVO 8. Someone send him one please, for a strip and tell vid! The AVO was a system meter with a huge array of accessories, like range extenders (upto 1000 amps I believe!!) for amps, volts and resistance, even a 25KV probe! Overload protection was provided by an inertia cutout, which basically isolated the meter when the needle hit the end stop with more than a preset force!
They are wonderful things, I have quite a collection of them with accessories, leather cases etc. Still use one to work on vintage stuff.
But Dave I still use my analog insulation resistance meter everyday, much easier to find electrical faults over a slow digital type. Especially if the fault is random, you can see the needle fluctuate as the digital types tend to dick around.
What about reading possible defective potentiometers and rheostat's. In the Navy we had to keep old Simpson 260s analog meters on hand just for those test. They would help detect burn spots/worn carbon traces as the contacts would slide over the range of the potentiometer/Rheostats. On a digital meter it just looks like the meter is normally searching for a value.
That exactly the point ... most of the time precision does not matter but have ability to "see" what is going on is priceless ... Also people more easily remember angle of needle of "safe value" than read value and think if it is OK or not ...
One great use for the analog meters is tuning filters, watching for a 'dip' or a 'peak' is much easier on an analog. The other time it is useful is when repairing old equipment where the manufacturer specified a 10KOhm/Volt meter was used in the adjustment and alignment of the equipment. There are some analog meters that have a 5KV input range, I don't think there are many digital meters that do. My Kamoden HT-100B4 for example has a 1KV range, 100MOhm input to 1KV DC, DC100KOhm /V AC12.5KOhm/V, and 10uA, 0.25mA, 2.5mA, 25mA , 250mA and 10A ranges.
When you discuss the input impedance of the analog meters, you're ignoring VTVMs, which were always preferred for sensitive circuits. VOMs were for electricians or very simple troubleshooting.
The FET meters you briefly alluded to at the beginning were a replacement for VTVMs, and effectively a DVM frontend tired to a analog meter movement.
Of course I ignored VTVM because FET VOM's long since replaced them, so why mention them?
There is one exception where you might need analog MMs; when the service manual says the measurements was taken with a 20k or 5k input impedance voltmeter, digital ones will read higher values.
for DC voltage you should read on the black scale (DC V) not red scale (AC V). It still look pretty accurate,
When I worked for my Uncle I did handle the Simpson 260 meter ! Thank you for the video ! tjl P.S. Also liked the Frequency Selective Volt Meter... Had a loose wire for the input and a Speaker on the output... !
My college still teaches how to use analog meters.... With Simpson 260s. :$
Analog meters are great for schools. Their "bigger problems" make nice teaching subjects like for example their influence on a circuit when probing.
In some occasion a analog meter can be very handy (slowly moving signals for example).
With my comment on AC measurements I was referring to the low accuracy at lower ranges because of the voltage drop over the rectifier diodes. Even if the digital meter doesn't have true RMS, it is still superior.
"Traditional modern one"... I howled with laughter.
This reminds me of having to learn how to use one of these old fashioned slide rules in Mathematics at school back in the day when I was a boy! And me and my classmates all had an electronic calculator in our rucksacks. Jeeeess! Rolleyes!
I have both and use both.
When I need 3+ places of accuracy, I opt for the digital. When I need absolute reliability, I opt for analog V-O-M. Battery only used for resistance readings.
When I need superior sensitivity, I opt for either an FET VOM or a VTVM. They are less prone to give erratic readings if noise in presents that a DVM.
I very rarely need such accuracy, however. So when i choose a DVM t'generally for the smaller size, portability and lower cost. Expensive test gear is for RF use where I'm concerned.
I never had any problem with multiplication of division by 10.
I would NEVER try to see an AC component supered on DC wit ANY meter. What's the point?
When I want to see a rapidly fluctuating voltage, it's "audio", which should ALWAYS be measured with a VU meter, whether analog or digilog.
I'd like to add another huge unexpected con of most digital meters: aliasing
For example, we use a Fluke 8840A (bench meter) in the lab where we design power converters among other stuff.
When measuring a DC voltage in a DC-AC inverter, it often has a superimposed 50Hz ripple.
It's not unusual to have some 200mV of ripple while measuring a 1.5V thing.
And I've seen the Fluke give a very repeatable reading a dozen times a second, but it sllloowly drifts around the correct value.
I guess that it samples in sync with the AC grid, and as the inverter's frequency might be 50.05Hz vs the grid's 50Hz, the aliasing produces a DC error that drifts in 0.05Hz intervals.
Which also means that you can have a quite ripply DC supply , and when you check the stability using a good bench meter, you get a deceptively satisfying stable digital reading at a very wrong DC level.
I rarely use analog meters, they are inaccurate, but they double as a low-freq oscilloscope when you don't think you need one.
Otherwise, it's always better to use a digital meter with an analog readout, but it's very important to have an in-depth understanding of the possible quirks of the equipment you're using.
I bought my first meter in the 60's. I was 10 or 11 at the time and 'messed' around with both valve and transistor equipment. Had to learn how to use the meter properly as I really didn't want to damage it or me. Getting the tongue at the right angle came out of the invaluable lessons learn't then. Now, as a 'greybeard' amongst other meters I have, in pride of place is my Brymark BM869S. It is accurate enough for my needs and has more functions than I need (or understand). Nevertheless I won't get rid of my analogue meters as for a few purposes they are better suited than digital.
Use the right tool for the job!
Still use an old cheap analog mm as a spare meter. Accuracy is plenty good for quick checks of circuit functionality, like mains or power supplies. And no 4.9999 display for 5V minus insignificant error.
They are definitely regulated to special use case situations now... I only ever use them for one thing. They put out enough voltage in resistance mode to deflect the course and fault flags of older analog avionics indicators. Makes for an easy check if there is a problem with the indicator or the signal source.
Some guys like to claim they are better for continuity checks, as you can see if a wire has a bit of resistance, from a bad splice... But continuity checks on a DMM gives a readout in ohms. As long as you are not going strictly by the beep, and looking at the meter reading, you will catch anything like that with a DMM as well.
Now some of the older Fluke DMMs and maybe others, combined continuity and diode as a single function, and while you may see something of you have a bit of voltage drop, it's not as straight forward as a seeing an Ohm readout... Seeing as most new DMMs have a separate continuity function, that advantage is removed as well.
I've got many digital meters, but my go to troubleshooting device is the good old Simpson 260. It has been for 35 years and always will be. The analog meter gives at a glance indications of capacitor charge ability, speaker resistance, transients, and transistor/capacitor leakage. I guess if you're an engineer the digital meter would be all you'd need. Techs have to fix things quickly in order to make any money at all. None of this spend days and weeks determining you've got a leaky part rubbish. You have to fix the product yesterday. And who can read the tiny symbols on those meters. My Fluke has the k and ohm symbols so small I have to put magnifiers on and point a flashlight at it to tell the difference.
Another disadvantage of the analog VOM is lack of durability. As many of us greybeards can attest to they don't hold up very well to the drop from the workbench to the floor. The black Bakelite shatters and the meter movement is whacked. An advantage to the loading effect comes into play when checking for A.C. voltages out in the field. A high impedance DMM may indicate voltages are present when they are simply EMI voltages from adjacent wires. Besides nostalgia, and inheritance, there is the fun factor. Walk onto a job site these days with your trusty old Simpson 260 or Triplett 630. First question is, "Does it work?" and second question is, "Do you know how to use it?"