Allegedly, making a victory sign of your fingers and then snapping them over the live and neutral at the same time is a reliable and somewhat safe way to test 220V. At least my teacher said so - wouldn't recommend tho! :D
Lol i knew an old baymen who would touch 110-220 wires if he wasent sure what it was. Dude is burnt out. Lol By the way just because he can do it doesent mean you can! LOL
Hey Dave, and all the DIY-PSA-aficionados; you won't cross-thread self-tapping screws during reassembly, when you insert them, but then turn them left (counter-clockwise) until you feel the thread registering, then you turn them right; reuse the existing thread! Works every time, no worries! :D
The UNI-T UT10A design is clearly "inspired" from the Sanwa PM3! Identical exterior, interface and features. Similar general internal layout… Hum, do I get the original or 2 copies for the same price? Decisions.
My favourite was the ol' tandy/radioshack one with the integrated cable wind in the top cover, it was not much larger than a mobile phone. Not a smartphone, an older smaller phone.
please add columns that indicate the diode test voltage and the lead voltage when on continuity.. just got a new Fluke 179 only to find the continuity test has the leads at 7volts !. thanks for your time Dave.
Alistair Sharp it is not ideal because if you check the continuity between some points on a low voltage circuit and the test does not current limit fast enough then the components on the circuit can see more voltage then they where designed for causing possible damage. Ideally the test would be quite low voltage (3v or less)
Low voltage tests however annoy some people in Diode mode because you can't measure higher voltage junction. I prefer the higher voltages personally, especially in electricians work. Considering those pocket meter live off a 3V coin cell or 2x1.5V AAA and not a 9V block, they will have fairly low voltage.
I have the little Sanwa. Didn't know about this 'shootout' (bought it several years ago), just went to Akihabara and got one with the functions I wanted at a price I was willing to pay. Glad to hear it is really good.
8:16 that's why there is a screw on the battery cover they are using it to keep the case from popping apart since it's only secured by clips a bit dodgy but it works.
BOTH Sanwa's you demo are made in China. The Sanwa PM3 says Tokyo Japan. It does not say Made in Japan, there is a big difference. Sanwa outsources many of it's Meters. Only a handful are actually made on the island! Cheers!
Dave, thanks for this - your expert opinion on these DMMs is really appreciated. Speaking as someone who wouldn't know a PTC from a hole in the head, it's good to know when I'd be throwing my money away or spending it wisely.
The probe covers are required for the CAT ratings that they are shooting for. They are rarely needed for electronics but required for high voltage electrical power stuff.
9:58 "But it should have auto power off anyway" while actually looking at case which says AUTO POWER OFF. 30:20 Not much room for that crystal to flap around when the case is closed. 40:12 No it's not downhill. The battery compartment screw does have a metal thread. How often do you need to open the entire case then? 57:00 Only seems smaller because the probes are on top of it (which is also why it's so thick) instead of on the side.
I think several of the cheap multimeters had issues with the probe wire, that could explain the quiet continuity beeps and weird capacitance. I got a pocket device from Tenma, which is identical to Uni-T UT10A, but the wires had gone bad and make the readings unreliable.
UNI-T are just awesome, i have been using the 120C for 3 years now, only problem - the probes cables frequently break on the strain relief. Otherwise the 10nf is an internal fix cap after firmware load. The zero function clears that error quickly and reliably. Measures up to 470mf caps :)
The Sanwa PM300 doesn't seem to have anything extra or special in terms of protection when compared to the Brymen BM22(in fact you could say the Brymen has more protection devices and slots) and yet the PM300 has CAT IV rating while the Brymen doesn't. I wonder what would be the reason for that, is Brymen just holding back on the ratings out of marketing reasons? Or playing it safe?
With the DER EE DE-19S, looks like you could get better wraparound with it if you tightened the strain releaf a tad as it is a big loop. Could get the SANWA PM300, and put it in a wallet.
HELL.YES!!! This is perfect timing for a Sunday night before bed!!! Gonna really love this!! And 10min in and I see the Aneng AN8008 is not allowed into the running. Good thing too, it would win hands down for value, quality and performance per dollar. Absolutely love mine. Will be looking to get a pocket version though after this shootout is over with! Man, this is gonna be good! Thanks Dave!!!
excellent review, most of all liked uni-t ut10a and Sanwa PM3, I would take such a uni-t in a book case, it's a pity that now it's nowhere to be found on sale
Hi Dave! :) Great video. I've waited for it. Some remarks: Brymen BM22 instead of BM27 - hmmm - a little disappointed with that. I've been using BM27 for 3 years now. It have more functions than any of presented ones, e.g. EF detection, LoZ, AutoCheck. No problems showed in shootout. It's lacking of REL button to be fair. You can buy the case separetly, but it takes less space if you use a bit of velcro tape. Hioki 3244-50 CARD Tester is discontinued, and the new 3244-60 it is not CAT rated. Hioki 3245-60 is another one CAT IV 300V pocket multimeter on the market. I love your videos. Keep up the good work :)
20:24 I have UT120C and it also shows 10nF with nothing connected, so it's probably normal with these. Fortunately there is the REL button. I don't know how they can do this properly on some multimeters (like UT213C, it shows 0, with probes connected or not) but not on the others (UT60E shows 1.2nF, UT120C 10nF, UT206 0,9nF).
A pocket meter needs to be small, protected and low cost. The Aneng AN8203 would be my choice. AAA batteries, 4000 count, true RMS, best rotary switch (one handed), good buzzer, and no current meter which is good. And the case will actually stand up while in use. And it is a fraction of the cost of the higher priced models. If I need to read current, need more accuracy, or a higher CAT rating then I will use a "bigger" meter.
I agree. While I have a bunch of Flukes I needed a cheap meter to keep in my toolbox you know with my tools :-). Any of those soft cases would provide ZERO protection in that harsh environment and I'm not putting a Fluke in there to get its display all scratched up. I settled on the Victor VC921 it's like the Aneng but with a larger LCD display it's also True RMS but I mostly use it for low voltage DC.
I knew it wouldn't be robust from the start. I purchased it with the strict conditions that it was for low voltage DC and unpowered circuits only (resistance, continuity, and diode checks). (Edit) I looked at the manual and it says NOT to apply voltage when on the ohms range or damage may occur. So this is a case of RTFM :-). I have a Fluke 87-5 and 115 that I use for high voltage measurements and would never trust ANY pocket meter for this purpose. There simply isn't enough room inside the tiny case to provide robust fault protection.
@Bushougoma: When did you buy your Victor? IIRC the Victor VC921 and the AN8203 only look very similar (buttons are a bit different) but are totally different meters internally. I think the Victor uses the DTM0660L chipset, which can easily be hacked via the EEPROM. I would love to get a original Victor VC921, but most ebay offerings include also pictures of the Aneng clone, so that i don't know which one i would get. And then there is the Zotek VC921, which seems to be a rebadged AN8203 (or vice versa, i believe Zotek is the OEM for most Aneng meters). **confused**
I throw my an8008 in the bag that comes with it in my suitcase or whatever when I go (I just use different probes) and its fine so far, I don think that protective cover is really needed that much for just the travel purposes.
Nice walkthrough and kudos for actually pointing out you where highly bias with the last one, as your selling it and having a profit in mind.. -as it was hilarious how many "but" there was taken center' when talking about the cons on the last meter and even trying to help the meter on its flaws, by taking it out of its casing to help the buzzer to be louder.. going to the extent was certainly not in play on any of the other meters. 59:45
@@joshuanorris5860 Totally agree with you. If you want a small thin DMM case for shirt pocket, the PM3 is a great choice. For me personally, I prefer the more protective case of the PM300 (and that the DMM is True RMS).
do you guys think sanwa's pocket meters can survive an accidental voltage test between 120-240v in wrong position/mode? since in bought the sanwa pm33a a 170$ CAD it is quite very expensive... it only has 1 ptc and 4-5 big high voltage smd resistor
PM300 is hard to find to. A topping $120 a don’t even come with the case. But they can be had by a couple for an extra $50ish making that thing getting close to a $180ish buck meter
The QM 1544 looks like an IPod with that dot in the middle of tthe knob. It is manufacturedby "apa"? sounds like apple... LOL Really nice colection you've got there Dave!
They have a wide range of meters too, right down to super death ones he he :-D I have an old micronta digital from 4000 years ago, it has no input protection, i've never been dead from it ha ha :-D. I'ts not what you've got, i'ts the way that you use it, wink wink :-D.
Aww! Was hoping you'd open the Tenma for comparison. It's the pocket meter I have, got it off ebay a couple of years ago for next to nothing, looking like it was hardly used
The weird cover of the Der-ee one is for the current probe in their other pocket DMM call DE-19, it's listed on there web site and I think it should not be hard to take a look of their website before leaving any comments.
The KEW 1018 meter had a plastic hinge which you tried to fatigue break. Reminds me of a slide rule from the 1960's which had a polypropylene hinge, brand new technology at the time. Their selling point was that it had been flexed 2 million times without failure.
The best of it is UT-10A multimeter. I bought one in 2005 and lost it in 2016 in Mongolia deserts during motorbike trip :)) This meter has not just been sitting on a shelf in my garage all this time, but has been constantly used in my toolbox for 12 years, from my days as a military engineer to many kilometers with me on many bike trips. Then i bought an UT-120C and it works well... But guts of UT-120 looks cheaper and it have a shitty fragile plastic box instead an UT-10 soft cover, you know..
Aneng does not develop its own multimeters, it's just a reseller. The main line ones are made by Zotek, and the rest of the lineup might be filled up by other manufacturers. Apropos Der EE, could it be that the wire goes the other way around the holder and there's ample room for it?
My favourite pocket DMM of choice at the moment is the Sanwa PM300 but its about 120AUD... Sanwa also make a credit-card sized PM7A that lacks the capacitance test and what nto of the PM300 but is pretty awesome considering the size and its half the price of the PM300.
Maybe from Dave it is, I bought mine in Japan for 10,000yen which is about 120aud. It wouldn't be the first time I've seen products made in Japan sold overseas cheaper than they are in Japan.
@@n2n8sda I bought the PM300 for about 6650 yen from Amazon Japan, which is about 74 AUD (www.amazon.co.jp/-/en/Electric-Instrument-dezitarumarutime-ta-62-%E2%80%93-3805-%E2%80%93-05-PM300/dp/B076ZYL2T1/). Great price for such a lovely pocket meter!
@@KarlBaronwish it was anything close to that these days. I’m not sure what that is in USD. But looking from the states it can only really be found on eBay for $120+ last I looked. An don’t even come with that case anymore. But theirs ones selling the case for it for another $50ish bucks so whatever it used to be a number of years back is knocking on it being $180ish dollar meter now. Wish I had got one than. Got a number of fluke though. An just can’t see spent that much for that meter an extra for the case for it now
In terms of the frequency measurement by these meters which one is the best? With Victor 921 there were no problems up to 10MHz. With APPA iMeter3 yellow clone from Digitech the frequency range is much lower than the spec of 5MHz. Have you tried to compare all units for that parameter? IMeter5 from APPA for e.g. has max 40kHz frequency range. Which could be sufficient for VFDs? But for electronics Victor 921 beats them all hands down and it is also fast. Both Sanwa and Digitech or APPA are better suited for electricians and technicians.
FYI. I went through 2 uni-t multimeters and the dial failed on both. The amprobe I've had for 5 years and it's done great. The only issue is the switch is easily activated, filed it off and less of an issue. But it does have an auto off which helps. Definitely go for the amprobe
Thanks for doing these comparisons. I've got the UNI-T120B and thought the capacitance was broken on mine. Looks like they all have it, weird. Other than that, it's been good to me.
Dave, any plans to review probe-style pocket DMMs and/or "smart tweezers"? I have a Triplett pocket DMM from 1984 or so, same form factor as a logic probe and fits in an eyeglass case, runs on two watch batteries.
Thanks for a really informative review! I`ve been using Sanwa-s, including PM3, for more than a decade now. I do trust it, and still havent destroyed it. Tough little thing. I do miss the backlight though. Added two alligator clips and a magnetic strap (stick on magnet for mobile phone use, works great) and that was it. Best of luck. :D
Great! Bought the UNI-T UT120B based on your shootout. Question: In capacitance mode, it jumps straight to 10nF and starts upwards from there. Yours seems to do the same (19:42). Is this expected behavior? Seems too much to represent the stray capacitance of the probes?
It's great how most of these have permanent test leads and they recomending to remove leads before opening case or battery compartment... A little too mutch copypasting from their "full-scale" counterparts? (",)
That Wavetek DM78A and TEBNA DMM 72-4040 , well I have PD-338 from Conrad in Germany, which seems to be the same probably and is over 20 years old. I love it despite the slowness.
The UT10A is getting harder to find. The cheaper listings are being replaced by the UT120A, or say they are out of stock, or let you order and then contact you to offer a UT120A instead.
I got the Hioki meter for $15. I only cared about one functionality on it and that’s how loud the continuity buzzer was and based on the video it sounded the most distinctive. Got tired of always carrying my Fluke around!
![How to Get a Developer Job - Even in This Economy [Full Course]](/img/n.gif)
Best portable multimeter:
1-12v: Tonge
12-32: Wet fingers
32-64: Dry fingers
64-110: Fast moving touch action
110+ :Don't recomend trying
124v here (Toronto, Canada), sure I can't try?
There is a slight margin for diferences betwen batches, you could try but it is't covered by warranty.
Allegedly, making a victory sign of your fingers and then snapping them over the live and neutral at the same time is a reliable and somewhat safe way to test 220V. At least my teacher said so - wouldn't recommend tho! :D
Lol i knew an old baymen who would touch 110-220 wires if he wasent sure what it was.
Dude is burnt out. Lol
By the way just because he can do it doesent mean you can! LOL
Unless you're Mehdi from ElectroBOOM, in which case, the limit is much higher.
Hey Dave, and all the DIY-PSA-aficionados; you won't cross-thread self-tapping screws during reassembly, when you insert them, but then turn them left (counter-clockwise) until you feel the thread registering, then you turn them right; reuse the existing thread! Works every time, no worries! :D
Fluffy Floofer
It's what I do, too!
sucking eggs are we?
@@groovejet33 Dr up
Pp
The UNI-T UT10A design is clearly "inspired" from the Sanwa PM3! Identical exterior, interface and features. Similar general internal layout…
Hum, do I get the original or 2 copies for the same price? Decisions.
I use a Sanwa PM11 it's a great meter has never let me down, another great video Dave keep erm coming and be careful when probing ones self.
I can't thiank you enough for taking your time to do this. Fascinating!
My favourite was the ol' tandy/radioshack one with the integrated cable wind in the top cover, it was not much larger than a mobile phone. Not a smartphone, an older smaller phone.
please add columns that indicate the diode test voltage and the lead voltage when on continuity.. just got a new Fluke 179 only to find the continuity test has the leads at 7volts !. thanks for your time Dave.
Excuse the possibly stupid question, is there a problem with the continuity test being at 7v? or is this a good thing?
Alistair Sharp it is not ideal because if you check the continuity between some points on a low voltage circuit and the test does not current limit fast enough then the components on the circuit can see more voltage then they where designed for causing possible damage. Ideally the test would be quite low voltage (3v or less)
Low voltage tests however annoy some people in Diode mode because you can't measure higher voltage junction. I prefer the higher voltages personally, especially in electricians work. Considering those pocket meter live off a 3V coin cell or 2x1.5V AAA and not a 9V block, they will have fairly low voltage.
The PM300 uses approximately 3.2V in diode test from it's 2032 battery... That's my winner, I bought it from Dave.
Such a great video, been hoping you'd do a pocket multimeter video. Looking forward to Part 2!
Got the footage today, need to edit. Just some extra tests and stuff.
I have the little Sanwa. Didn't know about this 'shootout' (bought it several years ago), just went to Akihabara and got one with the functions I wanted at a price I was willing to pay. Glad to hear it is really good.
I have the UNI-T and i am very happy with it.
20:27 - Isn't there a 'RELATIVE' mode to null out the lead-capacitance? ('REL it out , as you said for the SANWA model at 28:58)
Ty for addressing the AN80008, that was my first question. Mine is currently in my pocket.
8:16 that's why there is a screw on the battery cover they are using it to keep the case from popping apart since it's only secured by clips a bit dodgy but it works.
Dodgy!
BOTH Sanwa's you demo are made in China. The Sanwa PM3 says Tokyo Japan. It does not say Made in Japan, there is a big difference.
Sanwa outsources many of it's Meters. Only a handful are actually made on the island! Cheers!
I bought one: it says made in china in the package ...
I think that transistor in the Kyoritsu KEW1018 is using the Base / Emitter junction zener property as a reference
Dave, thanks for this - your expert opinion on these DMMs is really appreciated. Speaking as someone who wouldn't know a PTC from a hole in the head, it's good to know when I'd be throwing my money away or spending it wisely.
DER EE has a model with a current probe included (DE-19A), thats what the compartment in the back is for.
Ah, thanks!
DER EE also has the slim DE-10/DE-11 models in their product lineup that look almost like the Sanwa PM3. Could be rebadged models.
What about the UNI-T UT10A? Was it discontinued? I can't find it anywhere
The DER has 2 models in that case format the B model has a probe that slots in the area thats covered in the one you reviewed .
I've had a Uni-T UT10A for several years, it has been fantastic for a throw around quickie meter. Also cheap to replace if you fry it!
Yes, cheap as chips.
I have one since 2010, still works great with the original battery.
The probe covers are required for the CAT ratings that they are shooting for. They are rarely needed for electronics but required for high voltage electrical power stuff.
9:58 "But it should have auto power off anyway" while actually looking at case which says AUTO POWER OFF.
30:20 Not much room for that crystal to flap around when the case is closed.
40:12 No it's not downhill. The battery compartment screw does have a metal thread. How often do you need to open the entire case then?
57:00 Only seems smaller because the probes are on top of it (which is also why it's so thick) instead of on the side.
Thanks Dave! It's good to see what I can get for a $20 pocket MM. I just went and purchased that UNI-T UT10A!
I think several of the cheap multimeters had issues with the probe wire, that could explain the quiet continuity beeps and weird capacitance.
I got a pocket device from Tenma, which is identical to Uni-T UT10A, but the wires had gone bad and make the readings unreliable.
the best video of this kind.thank's four your dedicated time.i will by ut120c or ut133a.
the great video ever.
12:24 - Select and Hold... why hold is upside down is just weird.
No, just the 'L' and the 'D' are upside-down. Regardless, the letters are in reverse-order
UNI-T are just awesome, i have been using the 120C for 3 years now, only problem - the probes cables frequently break on the strain relief. Otherwise the 10nf is an internal fix cap after firmware load. The zero function clears that error quickly and reliably. Measures up to 470mf caps :)
The Sanwa PM300 doesn't seem to have anything extra or special in terms of protection when compared to the Brymen BM22(in fact you could say the Brymen has more protection devices and slots) and yet the PM300 has CAT IV rating while the Brymen doesn't. I wonder what would be the reason for that, is Brymen just holding back on the ratings out of marketing reasons? Or playing it safe?
Oh Jesus Christ.. Dave Jones with a transillion of multimeters.. again! This Aussie is obsessed!!! :P
With the DER EE DE-19S, looks like you could get better wraparound with it if you tightened the strain releaf a tad as it is a big loop.
Could get the SANWA PM300, and put it in a wallet.
It's actually incredible how cheap they can make these.
HELL.YES!!!
This is perfect timing for a Sunday night before bed!!! Gonna really love this!!
And 10min in and I see the Aneng AN8008 is not allowed into the running. Good thing too, it would win hands down for value, quality and performance per dollar. Absolutely love mine. Will be looking to get a pocket version though after this shootout is over with! Man, this is gonna be good!
Thanks Dave!!!
Would you like some tissues? :->
Already havin a second go!
so when can we expect an EEV pocket multimeter designed by yourself?
Great video!
Dave missed the probe sharpness test on one of the units!
excellent review, most of all liked uni-t ut10a and Sanwa PM3, I would take such a uni-t in a book case, it's a pity that now it's nowhere to be found on sale
Hi Dave! :) Great video. I've waited for it.
Some remarks:
Brymen BM22 instead of BM27 - hmmm - a little disappointed with that. I've been using BM27 for 3 years now. It have more functions than any of presented ones, e.g. EF detection, LoZ, AutoCheck. No problems showed in shootout. It's lacking of REL button to be fair. You can buy the case separetly, but it takes less space if you use a bit of velcro tape.
Hioki 3244-50 CARD Tester is discontinued, and the new 3244-60 it is not CAT rated.
Hioki 3245-60 is another one CAT IV 300V pocket multimeter on the market.
I love your videos. Keep up the good work :)
I wonder if you can tweak the buzzer to make it a little louder, at least.
20:24 I have UT120C and it also shows 10nF with nothing connected, so it's probably normal with these. Fortunately there is the REL button. I don't know how they can do this properly on some multimeters (like UT213C, it shows 0, with probes connected or not) but not on the others (UT60E shows 1.2nF, UT120C 10nF, UT206 0,9nF).
A pocket meter needs to be small, protected and low cost. The Aneng AN8203 would be my choice. AAA batteries, 4000 count, true RMS, best rotary switch (one handed), good buzzer, and no current meter which is good. And the case will actually stand up while in use. And it is a fraction of the cost of the higher priced models. If I need to read current, need more accuracy, or a higher CAT rating then I will use a "bigger" meter.
I agree. While I have a bunch of Flukes I needed a cheap meter to keep in my toolbox you know with my tools :-).
Any of those soft cases would provide ZERO protection in that harsh environment and I'm not putting a Fluke in there to get its display all scratched up. I settled on the Victor VC921 it's like the Aneng but with a larger LCD display it's also True RMS but I mostly use it for low voltage DC.
Watch my next video, it was the only meter to die with 240V on the ohms.
Or use a Uni-T 210e.
Because on the go you probably don't have the tools to open a circuit anyway.
So a small current clamp is king.
I knew it wouldn't be robust from the start. I purchased it with the strict conditions that it was for low voltage DC and unpowered circuits only (resistance, continuity, and diode checks). (Edit) I looked at the manual and it says NOT to apply voltage when on the ohms range or damage may occur. So this is a case of RTFM :-).
I have a Fluke 87-5 and 115 that I use for high voltage measurements and would never trust ANY pocket meter for this purpose. There simply isn't enough room inside the tiny case to provide robust fault protection.
@Bushougoma: When did you buy your Victor?
IIRC the Victor VC921 and the AN8203 only look very similar (buttons are a bit different) but are totally different meters internally. I think the Victor uses the DTM0660L chipset, which can easily be hacked via the EEPROM. I would love to get a original Victor VC921, but most ebay offerings include also pictures of the Aneng clone, so that i don't know which one i would get. And then there is the Zotek VC921, which seems to be a rebadged AN8203 (or vice versa, i believe Zotek is the OEM for most Aneng meters). **confused**
I throw my an8008 in the bag that comes with it in my suitcase or whatever when I go (I just use different probes) and its fine so far, I don think that protective cover is really needed that much for just the travel purposes.
Are there any made without the radial dial? Seems like it makes it twice as big for no reason.
Nice walkthrough and kudos for actually pointing out you where highly bias with the last one, as your selling it and having a profit in mind..
-as it was hilarious how many "but" there was taken center' when talking about the cons on the last meter and even trying to help the meter on its flaws, by taking it out of its casing to help the buzzer to be louder.. going to the extent was certainly not in play on any of the other meters. 59:45
Sanwa PM3 is a clear winner out of all of these for sure.
But it also costs a lot more than most of them....
I agree. Best for your pocket.
Meh its the winner if you like the wallet with it.
I like the 300 more, the one he is selling.
I wish they both had backlights tho :/
@@joshuanorris5860 Totally agree with you. If you want a small thin DMM case for shirt pocket, the PM3 is a great choice. For me personally, I prefer the more protective case of the PM300 (and that the DMM is True RMS).
@@martin-ot very weird that you message me now because i started looking for a clamp meter a few minutes ago lol
I missed that kind of videos... keep it up Dave
Great run through, thanks Dave
do you guys think sanwa's pocket meters can survive an accidental voltage test between 120-240v in wrong position/mode? since in bought the sanwa pm33a a 170$ CAD it is quite very expensive... it only has 1 ptc and 4-5 big high voltage smd resistor
Was going to order a Uni-T 10A but it looks like they're no longer making pocket meters :(
PM300 is hard to find to. A topping $120 a don’t even come with the case. But they can be had by a couple for an extra $50ish making that thing getting close to a $180ish buck meter
The QM 1544 looks like an IPod with that dot in the middle of tthe knob. It is manufacturedby "apa"? sounds like apple... LOL Really nice colection you've got there Dave!
Appa, not apa. They make some solid meters, though normally Brymen is markedly better.
I’m glad I’m not the only one who thought “that yellow one looks like a big iPod nano”
23:10 It is even sold as the Imeter3
Most to the point multimeter video on youtube.
I like my Sanwas, have an older PC510a and this little PM3. Great meters for the price, but kinda hard to get. Use them more than my Metrawatt..
I have a BENNING MM P3 since several years and it looks like the Jaycar QM1544, BENNING still sell this DMM for about 35€.
The OEM is APPA from Taiwan: www.appatech.com/en/product-c137762/APPA-iMeter-Series.html
Yeah it's great and quite accurate for a non true rms pocket meter
Dave, awesome. Really good review. :)
Thanks.
Streets ahead!
I had a TENMA model before but to bad it stop working in the display :( but it was fine to have in the car. I don't know where you can buy it now.
The Ut10 looks good enough for ordinary L.v use, and you won't cry if it gets damaged.
confirmed, i have one, nicely made,
They have a wide range of meters too, right down to super death ones he he :-D
I have an old micronta digital from 4000 years ago, it has no input protection, i've never been dead from it ha ha :-D.
I'ts not what you've got, i'ts the way that you use it, wink wink :-D.
Aww! Was hoping you'd open the Tenma for comparison. It's the pocket meter I have, got it off ebay a couple of years ago for next to nothing, looking like it was hardly used
10:20 - That extra OFF position on the rotary switch is a bit 'how ya' doin''!
The weird cover of the Der-ee one is for the current probe in their other pocket DMM call DE-19, it's listed on there web site and I think it should not be hard to take a look of their website before leaving any comments.
The KEW 1018 meter had a plastic hinge which you tried to fatigue break. Reminds me of a slide rule from the 1960's which had a polypropylene hinge, brand new technology at the time. Their selling point was that it had been flexed 2 million times without failure.
Planing a Multimeter museum any time in the future?
32:11 - Does the BM22 have a cracked screen? It looks like there is a vertical crack going down the middle.
The best of it is UT-10A multimeter. I bought one in 2005 and lost it in 2016 in Mongolia deserts during motorbike trip :)) This meter has not just been sitting on a shelf in my garage all this time, but has been constantly used in my toolbox for 12 years, from my days as a military engineer to many kilometers with me on many bike trips. Then i bought an UT-120C and it works well... But guts of UT-120 looks cheaper and it have a shitty fragile plastic box instead an UT-10 soft cover, you know..
Got a Hioki full-size DMM and it beeps on each step when autoranging, so I pretty much always put it in silent mode when using it.
just bought 2 uni-t multimeters, very happy with them
the QM1544 is a very common meter in Germany. It is sold as the BENNING MM P3 in basically every hardware store.
Not a bad meter. It is APPA of Taiwan that is the OEM of them all. www.appatech.com/en/product-c137762/APPA-iMeter-Series.html
Your teardown videos are awesome as usual ;-)
Love the MultiMeter reviews!!! 👍😁👊
Aneng does not develop its own multimeters, it's just a reseller. The main line ones are made by Zotek, and the rest of the lineup might be filled up by other manufacturers.
Apropos Der EE, could it be that the wire goes the other way around the holder and there's ample room for it?
It is for storing the clamp meter in the versions that has it. For example this one: www.deree.com.tw/de-19a-pocket-size-digital-multimeter.html
My favourite pocket DMM of choice at the moment is the Sanwa PM300 but its about 120AUD... Sanwa also make a credit-card sized PM7A that lacks the capacitance test and what nto of the PM300 but is pretty awesome considering the size and its half the price of the PM300.
The PM300 is not AU$120 but AU$63 on Dave's store if you check the video description...
Maybe from Dave it is, I bought mine in Japan for 10,000yen which is about 120aud. It wouldn't be the first time I've seen products made in Japan sold overseas cheaper than they are in Japan.
@@n2n8sda I bought the PM300 for about 6650 yen from Amazon Japan, which is about 74 AUD (www.amazon.co.jp/-/en/Electric-Instrument-dezitarumarutime-ta-62-%E2%80%93-3805-%E2%80%93-05-PM300/dp/B076ZYL2T1/). Great price for such a lovely pocket meter!
@@KarlBaronwish it was anything close to that these days. I’m not sure what that is in USD. But looking from the states it can only really be found on eBay for $120+ last I looked. An don’t even come with that case anymore. But theirs ones selling the case for it for another $50ish bucks so whatever it used to be a number of years back is knocking on it being $180ish dollar meter now. Wish I had got one than.
Got a number of fluke though. An just can’t see spent that much for that meter an extra for the case for it now
In terms of the frequency measurement by these meters which one is the best? With Victor 921 there were no problems up to 10MHz. With APPA iMeter3 yellow clone from Digitech the frequency range is much lower than the spec of 5MHz. Have you tried to compare all units for that parameter? IMeter5 from APPA for e.g. has max 40kHz frequency range. Which could be sufficient for VFDs? But for electronics Victor 921 beats them all hands down and it is also fast. Both Sanwa and Digitech or APPA are better suited for electricians and technicians.
Hi. Great channel. What do you think of Fluke 106? Is it good enough for a basic lab?
Wow, thanks for putting in all that effort. How long did it take you to shoot and edit that lot?
53:53 DER EE DE-19S has plenty of spare length for those 'stretched’ probe cords inside the case so this is not a biggy.
FYI. I went through 2 uni-t multimeters and the dial failed on both. The amprobe I've had for 5 years and it's done great. The only issue is the switch is easily activated, filed it off and less of an issue. But it does have an auto off which helps.
Definitely go for the amprobe
Now you need a jacket with 14 pockets
Thanks for doing these comparisons. I've got the UNI-T120B and thought the capacitance was broken on mine. Looks like they all have it, weird. Other than that, it's been good to me.
Is the black wire of the Hioki connected to the Ground Plane of the Meter/Battery??? Looks weird...
I have a question about Amprobe is their multimeters Brymen ones or the other way around ?
Dave, any plans to review probe-style pocket DMMs and/or "smart tweezers"? I have a Triplett pocket DMM from 1984 or so, same form factor as a logic probe and fits in an eyeglass case, runs on two watch batteries.
Just tried my UTC120C and it's showing about 10nF too! (22:00) Never realised....
So definitely a design thing. Why?
same here for my UT120B :-)
Which one is the best multimeter for everything (professional, indesrtrial, home, electrical and electrician)
Thanks for a really informative review!
I`ve been using Sanwa-s, including PM3, for more than a decade now. I do trust it, and still havent destroyed it. Tough little thing.
I do miss the backlight though.
Added two alligator clips and a magnetic strap (stick on magnet for mobile phone use, works great) and that was it.
Best of luck. :D
I would love to see an in depth review.... Keep up the good work.
Great! Bought the UNI-T UT120B based on your shootout. Question: In capacitance mode, it jumps straight to 10nF and starts upwards from there. Yours seems to do the same (19:42). Is this expected behavior? Seems too much to represent the stray capacitance of the probes?
Do I see a crack in the BM22 PCB near the center spark-gap?
Hmmm... Sanwa PM300 492 SEK from Dave / 871 SEK from AliExpress
_(incl. shipping)_
hey bud, Great job! 1 question, What is the input restance on the DC and AC volts, 10 meg??, 1 meg,?? etc....
Thank you for this video! In which way i can measure caps with my UT120C? It measures 10.5 nF unloaded.
It's great how most of these have permanent test leads and they recomending to remove leads before opening case or battery compartment... A little too mutch copypasting from their "full-scale" counterparts? (",)
thank you for the awesome video!
That Wavetek DM78A and TEBNA DMM 72-4040 , well I have PD-338 from Conrad in Germany, which seems to be the same probably and is over 20 years old. I love it despite the slowness.
The UT10A is getting harder to find. The cheaper listings are being replaced by the UT120A, or say they are out of stock, or let you order and then contact you to offer a UT120A instead.
My daily carry is the Sanwa PS8a
Interesting form factor that one.
i really like the form factor of this meter. it kind of brings the best of both styles of hard cases seen in this video.
Is that... solar powered? Awesome!
Karl Baron yep. Not that feature-rich but does the job you would expect. Probes are a bit small, but gold platet.
What about OWON B35T+ or newer B41T+, they're sub $65 on Amazon with Bluetooth and data logging?
Still own and use a DickSmith Q1473 which to the best as i can tell is identical to the UNI-T 10A. Good to know if I need to replace it.
We're in like Flynn at 41:05 ? I am shocked.
Could the DM78C pick up noise from fluorescent lights on mV auto-range>
Could the uni t ones be having capacitance testing problems from a low(ish) battery?
Damn .. this is few good plot points away from a feature film.
Noice, was hoping after dissembling all them meters you were going to reassembly the " perfect " inexpensive meter . . like Tuco!!
I got the Hioki meter for $15. I only cared about one functionality on it and that’s how loud the continuity buzzer was and based on the video it sounded the most distinctive. Got tired of always carrying my Fluke around!