How To Make A Headset Cup Press/Install Tool
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 5 ก.ย. 2024
- This is my homemade bearing cup press. It works similar to the Park Tool HHP-3 to install the bearing cups into the head tube of a bike frame. It cost less than $8 to make. So relatively cheap to build. It was made from a 12 inch piece of 1/2" threaded rod, 4-6 fender washers, 2 nylon washers, 2 flat washers and 2 flange nuts. I also demonstrate how to use the tool.
Here is the tool made by Park Tool:
www.amazon.com/...
Of course, if you want the really nice shop grade version:
www.amazon.com/...
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Hi thx for the vid
Should i removed the bearing inside the cups before adding pressure to the cups?
@@MrDeceptacon88 Yes.
@@RJTheBikeGuy thx
@@RJTheBikeGuy but why do you need a nylon washer? Cant you just tighten the large washers with the flange nut?
@@MrDeceptacon88 Slides smoother.
Thanks, RJ, you have saved me so much money on my bike build, I really appreciate what you do for us, Much respect sir.
I made close to the same tool. I just used a 1/2 inch bolt, the other side is the same. I found using the opposite side without a lock nut made threading the bolts together more difficult. I also used a smaller washer in the cup as a locator, or else the bolt wants to wander a bit, which will put the cups in slanted.
Kudos to putting this out there just the same.
$8.00 worth of hardware at the store bought me what I needed to make this DYI tool. Saved lots of $$$ on a specialized Park tool or having a store mechanic do it for me. Works like a charm! I had my upgrade headset installed very quickly. Thanks for posting this how-to shyflirt1!
Check out Oz cycle he uses plastic hose outlets to centre the bearings.
10 years on and still educating and helping. Thank you so much for this!🤩🤩
I tried this tonight on a vintage frame with a new Cane Creek headset and it worked great! HD was low on inventory, so I used a 5/8" rod with just a couple fender washers on each end and no nylon washers. The only downside is that I'm guessing I'll never need the tool again, so I'll pass it along to someone else. Not bad for an 8 year old video, Thanks!!!
Awesome, RJ. Between the cup remover, the press tool and the crown race tool I got a completely new headset installed on my 35-year-old Miyata. Thanks a million. Next is cold-setting the frame.
For the remover tool I just used a shop rag on a blunt large screw driver and gradually tapped the end of the screw driver with a hammer evenly around the back of the cup...Although that flared remover tool looks great!
I hope you don't mind a suggestion to improve the tool. I would switch on of the regular nuts with an acorn nut at the end of the threaded rod. It is much easier to get the tool into position and if you have the closed end of the tool with the acorn nut at the top of the headtube, it is much easier to turn because you can swing the handle of the wrench or the ratchet in a complete circle.
Thank you so much:). I just spent the best $14USD during COVID19 whilst I work on my bikes at home:)! THANK YOU! Subbed.
Hey Thanks RJ
I'm building a aluminum touring bike. This has saved me some big money thank you thank you thank you.
And I'm learning some great helpful stuff.
Thanks!!! I just used on my BB30 PF 30. Quick and easy. Beats trying to eyeball it in then lightly tapping. Looking forward to looking at other DIY items you have.
Just brainstorming here. A handfull of 1 1/8" (or whatever steer tube diameter) washers and some nuts should keep things easily centered on the first cup. Park Tool's tool has a couple of metal wedding cakes at either end that keep it easily centered. So for the second cup I'm sure a stack of the properly sized washer to fit in the cup should work, though there may be reason to worry about damaging the cup with the washer.
Pretty nifty. I've used this method but with a couple of wood disks cut with a hole saw from plywood that act as my pressing surface. Couple of nuts and washers top them off. :) I also have a small hydraulic press in my shop if I get real lazy. Just requires and extra set of hands to hold the frame.
Thank you so much! This is a genius homemade tool and has saved me so much cash and any damage to my new paint job. I'm restoring a 1970s Road bike. Your videos are great. Thanks again
My 06 cbf1000 will recieve this treatment ! Thankyou 👍
RJ whenever I run in to trouble with my bikes you always have the answer. Your the man!
Very useful tool!
You can use it for other puproses such as pressing one-piece crank bottom bracket cups in the frame or putting back sealed bearing in the hub (using the fender washers you have with this tool along with the wheel axle and nuts). I think there's another use to this tool but I can't remember...
Great video, as usual :)
Hey just wanted to say thank you for posting these videos! I’m currently building up my bare steel frame fixed gear and your videos on diy tools saved me a lot of money and time! Both the cup removal tool and this tool worked perfectly. Keep these videos coming!
you are professional :) i always like to see home made tools,, definately i will try build that one in next week when i buy material for that project,, and in Finland professional tools are way too expensive :) have a nice day RJ +1
Very helpful. Made this for like $6 from Home Depot and stuff I had laying around the garage.
Thanks for sharing! I would use a 3/8" instead of a 1/2" threaded rod, so that you can re-use the rod for your home-made rear hanger alignment tool or the rear hanger cold setting tool.
Thank you! I was thinking about making one myself and that was the plan I had… your video just made it so much easier to put from idea to a visual.
Just did this tonight! Total parts were $3.97. Thanks!!!
To center the tool and to prevent it from shifting like in the video, I used a 1 1/4" washer on the inside with a nut holding it so the threaded rod didn't shift. So it would be nut, 1 1/4" washer, large washer to span the cup, small washer, nut.
Head Set is on and I am bike to Riding! Installed a Crane Creek Forty Headset on my 2010 Trek 3500! Thank you!!
Thanks, Watching a few of your videos recently and they've helped me save time and money. Currently restoring a 1994 Cannodale R900.
Thank you, thank you, thank you. You are my home mechanic savior.
Thanks from CT! You have once again saved my wallet, time and sanity! Thanks for helping me keep riding - I'm an essential worker and I bike to work.
elegant contraption, i like it.
Thanks, RJ! This will save me some money on my bike build.
I saw your video on the cup remover and made me one and just tried it for the first time today and man it works great
thank for the tip, did this today and the tool worked great - $7 in materials
Could you do both cups at the same time? Great tool!
One at a time is better, then you have one flat surface (the one with no cup in) to guide the other.
If you tried two at once and they both got a bit wonky it gets more complicated saving it
Very useful indeed RJ. Thanks. A lot . I absolutely like the pace & how clear your explanations are.
Great video. Saved me a bunch of $$$. Thanks.
Just got the tools from Home Depot today. Less 15 dollars total with the pvc pipe and cap I need to press my crown race on. Doing this tonight!
Wow! I just easily installed a threadless headset on my old schwinn thanks to this. Great little piece!
This is awesome. I plan on making one tomorrow. Great idea using the nylon washers to minimize friction!!!
RJ the Best Bike guy in Town! :D
Nice clear and concise video!
I made the same removal tool earlier this year. Except, I rounded the sharp edges off so they didn't dig into my aluminum frame.
And I used a rubber automotive bushing i had lying around to hammer in the new cups. I have Internal bearings btw. Yours I would not hammer.
BRILLIANT!!! ABSOLUTELY BRILLIANT!!!
Thanks PJ.
I was about to purchase the Park Tool HHP 3 today, when I happened to come across your video. What luck!
Thx. You've saved me quite a bit of cash. I have subbed & 👍 this video. I'm sure I'll be doing the same to the rest of your work you share with us.
Much appreciated.
-Peace,
Jerry ✌️😉🙏
managed to fit my headset into new frame using this method and some knocking for leveling it
Thanks for sharing!
Thanks rj. You’re always coming through
Hats off you you sir 🎩 This surely is VALUABLE tips and tricks your handing out for free. I'm now subscribed and have liked all your videos as a small thank you 🙏
This video was extremely useful. Thank you.
this can be used for press fit bb installation just the same eh?
Great Job!
Thanks
Is a special kind of grease preferred for this?
Cool I use 2 blockc of wood and a hammer
Genuine genius mate 👍
Brilliant, thanks RJ!
Just made mine and it worked perfectly 😁
beats using a hammer! great stuff
Very clever and so simple. Thanks for your ideas.
I will be using this idea this weekend on my resto mod build
Made mine for $3.30. Thanks RJ
All great content! Your ideas have saved me money. Thank you!
Great video, very useful. Thanks for sharing. Regards from Spain.
Wow you saved me over $100, God bless
I didn't did this part and place the new bearings on the old pieces because I thought they look well. The bike is holland granny bicycle type. The fork and special the handlebar holder is very long and also is the state very oblique. I think I need to do this job again cause there is still little vibration. Maybe is it the steerer tube that can not attach properly. I will check this first and if this not help than I do it all over with the tools seen on the video.
Thanks
Not sure what you mean by vibration. Is the headset just loose? th-cam.com/video/mkCC2lz540E/w-d-xo.html
Hi Guy, I send you a video on your personally account. I buy the pieces today in the metal shop and I will it do over again but first I have other bikes were I need to work on. If you have an idea were I can do something more to stop the little vibration than I like to hear that. The video you see: i want it to share with youtube but I smoke there and the explanation is not something as giving knowledge... So I do not uploaded this video, only for you. Give me some minutes because I will share it with OnDrive link.Thanks... Luc
THANK YOU!
Hi should i remove the inner bearing before putting pressure onto the cup or leave the bearing inside the cup?
Remove the bearings.
This worked perfectly.
what is keeping the frame head from cracking or splitting, same with cups of headset,etc? I've always wondered this. thanks!
Super useful video! Thanks for this
many thanks for this video...I fix my MTB with this diy tool...👍👍👍👍
Cool!
Thanks for the video RJ, very helpful with the ideas.
Why not a thicker rod if most headsets are anywhere between 1-1.5in? Would it not be more stable?
What type and brand of grease do you recommend for the bearings, threads etc? Thanks
I use marine grease for most bearing stuff.
Question: why the nylon washers? What purpose do they serve? This is super helpful.
+Michael Alderman Allows the stuff to turn smoother.
Two questions:
1) What if the cup isn't going in 100% straight?
2) Can you please do a video on a pressfit bottom bracket?
Excellent video as always!
Ric Liang Try to get them in as straight as possible. If they are really tight, this can be tough. You might need to loosen the tool and move it over to press in the part that isn't going in, to try to straighten it up. I sometimes have to move the tool a lot. Once it gets in so far, then it will often start going in straight.
I will probably do a video on press fit BBs at somepoint.
+Ric Liang Not necessary, it works the same way. If the bearing isn't square remove and start again.
What is the nylon washer for?
I always love RJ video's, and I start doing these things thinking I'm RJ, but I'm not, and the cups always go in crooked. Now I need the tool to get it out. But this time I'm smarter, I'm not RJ, I'm taking the frame to my lbs to press them in
Use grease, and take your time. Try freezing the cups.
Big help for me thanks.
Another thing i need yay :)
if available, will cooling or freezing the cup with LN help seat the cup ?
Maybe. I have not tried that. I don't have LN lying around.
Thank you! Would it be ok to use rubber between the washer and headset/ bottom bracket cup to protect it?
Not necessary.
Mine always goes crooked as soon as I start pressing it. Does the head tube need to be reamed?
Works well thank you!
i just want to say after watching this videos: my headset press cost was 4 euros. Thanks a lot!
thank you RJ
Ok... this is very cool but for me as someone who doesn´t have a toolshed with washers and some steelrods with threads... I feel like I can just buy the tool (not the park one... can buy a bike for that price.)
Certainly inspired me to start up a serious work-space, though.
Great video, thank you for sharing!
The only mod that I could think of would be to add a thrust bearing between the top washer and fender washer in place of the nylon washer. Great idea - simple video for the DIY home mechanic!
Hi RJ, Just made one of these tools, shopping from memory at the hardware store, then checked back here to see if I missed anything. Haven't used my tool yet. Are the nylon washers really necessary? Have you found that the metal washers bind up against each other and make it hard to tighten otherwise? Also, why the need to stack 2-3 fender washers on either side? I just bought a single smaller washer (against the nut) and larger/fender washer (against the headset cup) for each side. The larger/fender washers I picked up are 3mm thick and I can't imagine this flexing (if extra stiffness is the purpose of stacking multiple). Thanks. Love your simple tools - going to make the headset removal tool (making these in the wrong order!) and fork alignment gauge next.
They are not necessary, but help it turn smoother.
Nice Job buddy
are the washers the same diameter as the rod ?
If you have one or know someone with a hydraulic press. DAT WORKS BEST
HI RJ
Dose this tool can also use in install the Press Fit bottom bracket ?
I haven't done a pressed fit BB so I don't know.
Nice!!
excellent video.............
Could a similar tool be used to pressfit cartridge bearings into my hubs?
Edit: thank you so much for your videos, they've helped me every step of the way on my first build :)
Probably. I haven't mess with those.
What if I just put it and hit it with the wood hammer?
I had a really interesting idea of dipping the cups into liquid nitrogen so that they would get really cold, shrink down temporarily and slide right into the steer tube???
It is an interesting idea. Unfortunately exposing metal to extreme temperatures like that sometimes causes embrittlement, which can lead to early failure of the component.
Fantastic I will be making this tomorrow to fit my new nuke proof head set
what about the diameters for the washers?
Nice big fender washers.
RJ... Would there be any disadvantage to using a thinner threaded rod? I have one handy, think it's 1/4", and would like to use that so this rod doesn't go to waste.
Thanks for all the great videos!
Will probably work okay.
I'm a bit late to this party (as usual) - have you made a video on how to make a frame bearing press at all? I can't find one. Thanks.
Probably the same thing.
Question:
What if I were to use a slightly shorter rod (8" ) and locked a flange nut with a regular locknut on one end and tightened only the other end? I imagine that this would work just as well, no?
Also...what if I were to use a cordless drill with adjustable torque settings to tighten the top nut instead of doing it by hand??
+mtlnascarfan As long as it's long enough to reach the length of the head tube. And do not use the drill. There can be a lot of adjusting while pressing the cups in to keep them straight.
Gotcha! Thanks, RJ!