E-Bike Motor Repair - Damaged Cable Bafang Hub Drive
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 21 ก.ย. 2024
- !!! Make sure to read the pinned comment from Mels van Hoolwerff below !!!
This video gives an overview of how to fix a Bafang rear hub motor when you’ve got damage where cable enters the hub.
Before we get into the repair itself, let’s see how the problem shows up. The first sign of trouble on this e-bike was that the information display stopped showing the speed and started reporting error code 21. The manual for the C961 display tells us that error code 21 is for “Speed sensor abnormality”. Over the following weeks, another problem emerged - the power would cut off regularly and the e-bike would not work until the bike was turned off and on again. It seemed that the bike was particularly prone to losing power after going over bumps in the road. Finally, as you can see in this picture, the wire bundle coming out of the motor appears to show some damage. Putting all of these clues together, we can be pretty certain that damage to the wire coming out of the motor was causing problems.
Now for the fix. Make sure to take lots of photographs as you go along so that you’ll know how the motor goes back together. Remove the wheel from the bike, and take off the cassette. You’ll need a cassette lockring tool with a decent-sized hole in the middle so that it can slip over the cable coming out from the hub. Next, remove the six screws around the outside of the hub. These screws have strange heads, a bit like a Torqx head but with a little pin in the middle. Once the screws are loose, the motor should slide out of the hub. You will also need to remove three large screws and the circlip that hold the metal gear wheel onto the motor. I made the mistake of also removing the six screws that attach the freehub body to the end plate. These screws were so tight that I stripped the heads of three of them and had to drill them out. I should have allowed the penetrating oil to soak in for longer. As it turned out, removing the screws was an unnecessary step anyway. Learn from my mistake and leave the six screws around the freehub body in place.
Instead, unscrew the two axle nuts and simply slide the freehub body off the motor. With the freehub body removed, three more screw heads become visible. Remove these and pull the cable through the axle to reveal the point where the cable was damaged. Cut the cable below this point with a wire cutter. The cable contains nine wires. The three large wires (green, blue and yellow) carry three phase electricity to make the motor turn. The other six wires are for the various sensors inside the motor. The red wire is +5V, the black wire is 0V, and the other four wires carry signals.
De-solder the six old signal wire ends. Next, with the old wire ends out of the way, strip the new ends and solder them into position. Originally, the signal wires were soldered in from the bottom of the circuit board. However, it is not easily possible to remove the circuit board so it’s probably best to solder the wires in from above as shown here. Be as neat as possible because there isn’t much space to work with here. Next, join the three main power wires. Use some heat shrink to protect against short circuits. And there it is, the cable is fixed. And now with some new screws to replace the ones that I had to drill out, the repair is complete and everything is ready to go back together. But before you do put your motor back together, it’s worth taking the opportunity to clean and lubricate the moving parts. And, with everything re-assembled, the is e-bike back in action.
One more thing to note is the way that you position the cable when you put the wheel back on the bike. Make sure to route the cable out of the axle in so that it passes through the notch in the side of the axle. This way the cable is less likely to get damaged if the bike falls or gets hit from the side. This motor might not have needed to be repaired in the first place if the cable had been installed this way from the beginning. And be careful about using panniers because the weight of a pannier resting on the cable could damage it over time.
Thank you for watching.
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They way you installed it will cause rain to drip into the motor and then everything will rust inside and probably the clutch will brake at first. I can tell you from experience. Better to use a longer cable and put the axle upside down.
That's a pity :( but thank you for this important info. I've pinned your comment to the top so people will know your tip.
I was about to post something similar, with the axle upside down and the cable going up as you say rain will wick along that cable into the motor ether shorting connections or causing rust, for this reason I always install with the cut in the axle facing down I also make sure the wire goes directly down about an inch and then loops back up to the frame where it is secured / zip-tied this means that any rain on the wire will travel down and drip off at the loop and not wick up into the motor
Get some silicone pumped in, not ideal but will buy you time
Hi Mels. The cable at the inner end of the hollow axle is blathered in black silicone at manufacturing from my experience, having had to dig this out to release the cable. I guess it’s a good idea to reseal this before putting the whole thing back together. 😉
Try to run cable Low along frame. So gravity helps u out
I've gone to 3 bike shops and they all said it was unfixable... Thankyou my man
Brother, I’m so glad I found you.
I bought my first conversion lite bike a year ago, and have had nothing but hassle since.
Hi Dominic! Very good video for me; I’ve just broke by accident, that cable containing the smaller filaments providing electricity and instructions to my ebike; I cannot find someone who wants or be able to repair my folding SAMEBIKE 20” and your video is really helpful in this moment as I learnt to love my bike; I’ll try my best to repair it properly; if everything goes fine, you will be my hero! 🤗
This is exactly what I needed prior to open the engine of my cargo bike to fix cables inside! Great work man!
There is a serious lack of ebike repair knowledge here in Ireland but like every new technology l'm sure this will improve. I went to a repair shop in Tallaght Dublin ( inner city scooters) with a damaged cable on my Engwe Engine Pro. They put in a new set of sensors for me and I highly recommend them. Big shout out to Dan the Man👍
Great video Dominic. My spindle came loose and knotted up the cable. I was going to solder joint all 9 wire externally, but was never comfortable with what would be the end result for a fixed wiring back to the controller. I've now found a new 9 pin extension lead 1.5 metres long. So I can cut off the plug end about 30cm or so and rewire wire this through the spindle as you show. Once I rewire the other piece of cable back to the controller I'll then have a convenient 9 pin connector joint to ease wheel and tyre service
Thank you for posting! I'm wondering about opening mine. It will, for sure, help me a lot.
Good luck!
This was great. But it was so hard to find on TH-cam. Maybe change or add more key words for others. Thanks again !!
Interesting. What keywords did you search for before finding this video? I will add them to the description
Great informative video. About to do the same job. The soldering part is fiddly, tiny wires.
Thans so much for your video I have the same problem my is the pedal error 3 I did what other video said but nothing I end up soldered wires because I thought was not making good contact. Now my next step is taking apart I may do a video to help other thanks again
Good luck! One thing I would say is pedal error could be to do with the pedalling sensor rather than the motor
Very well documented, thank you Dominic.
Glad you enjoyed it Ben, you're very welcome
Not bad, not bad....only thing I can say is make sure to use "high temperature" grease in the motor when re lubing....but otherwise a pretty good breakdown video....
Good tip, thank you
Came looking for the tip about not removing the free hub screws! I'm trying to take them out right now not sure if I needed to. And boom one is stripped. Then some penetrating oil. A few minutes. One screw out. The other 4 not turning, feel like they're stripping. I'll quit now and put the one back in.
I'll get the three screws and clip on the other side. And do it properly. Thanks
I agree with you about using rear panniers. They're a pannier ass.
I damaged my front hub motor slightly (it sometimes turns off when riding and I have to reboot) due to the shaft rotating in the fork, very dangerous when the wire wraps and the wheel stops! The u shaped tabs spread apart over time (they were thin and weak), and the shaft was not restrained. I fixed by welding reinforcing plates to the outside of the fork. I would recommend rear wheel drive now, ha ha. I may have to take the hub apart if it gets any worse, thanks for a video to describe what to expect, it would be easier on front hub, and no gears to deal with.
I think part of your issue was using a front motor and the second was not using torque arms, front motors work well but forks are not really designed to take the load so can fail in one way or another and the usual point is the u shaped tabs as you call them as they can spread or round out if there the nuts are not sufficiently tight, this is why a torque arms are very important as it as an extra way to secure the axle in relation to the fork or frame and stop fork or frame damage in the event the nuts loosen or a large amount of torque tried to twist the axle in the U shaped tabs, even on the rear i would and still do use torque arms .
I've got the exact same problem right now and I can't find anyone to help fix it for me. I'm in London and run a small unfunded, nonprofit homeless outreach group delivering food and other much needed essentials to our friends on the streets, I do this on an electric cargo bike. But as you mentioned 1 of the forks cracked at the front and has in turn twisted the wires, I've managed to get the forks welded thankfully, however I still need to fix the motor if anyone can possibly point me in the direction of someone who can help please, as I can't do the outreaches as efficiently without the bike.
@@ads2829 did you manage to find anyone in London?
@@urbanpuma9136 yes, I found someone to help, he's fixed 2 motors with wires that had snapped.
Thank you, Dominic. Great Tutorial!
Glad you enjoyed it!
Great video thanks for sharing! Also great tip about the panniers!
I'm glad it was helpful :)
Very clear and nice video. Will the hall sensors with different series numbers will match all different brushless motor controller or there must be a mentioned hell sensors inside the brushless hub motor that can match a specific motor controller. Please advise.
Thank you :) I don't have any experience with mixing and matching hall sensors unfortunately. So I can't tell you if they'll be compatible.
This is very Help full but if make a full video during work
That will be very helpful
I have same issue but can’t understand how to start and Fix
My bike Cable is Damage
Thanks Anyway
Excellent video. Thank you!
Great vid Dominic...I just bought an e bike with power failure at back wheel it sorta kicks in when left leg is on downstroke then off when coming up if that makes sense...I'm hoping I find a broken wire as mine looks identical to yours
Hi Tom, it sounds like an issue with the cadence (pedalling) sensor. Check if there's a little disk near your bottom bracket with magnets embedded in it. I've a feeling the disk is a bit wonky, so the magnets are moving too far from the sensor at certain parts of the pedal stroke, causing the motor controller to think you've stopped pedalling and the motor to cut out. Try to move the whole magnet disk as close to the sensor as possible, without rubbing. And as straight as possible.
Yes you are right ...a piece had broke off ...eBay to the rescue 😁 just learning the ropes on ebikes but as a mechanic for over 30 years it's pretty easy to pick up as long as you realise you don't need fuel 😂 cheers 👍
The bolts that are like Torx with the pin in the middle are called Security Torx.
I learned something new today. Thank you!
Hi. Are you based in the U.S.?
Do you have a bike shop?
I have the same problem. My hub motor cables are ruined primarily because I have been riding without a torque arm.
The rear hub motor twisted sometimes while I was riding and ruined the hub motor wires
I had a very hard time finding a torque arm in bike stores
No, not in the US. I would say you need to look at specialised e-bike websites like Luna Cycle for your torque arm. Or if you can't find a torque arm to buy, then maybe ask around machine shops? Could be a bit expensive, but they should be able to rig something up for you.
Thank you so much for this wonderful video!
Exactly what i needed!!!! Thanks
You're welcome! Good luck with the repair
Great video thanks, I have a similar hub motor on a swagtron eb5...
Wires are all messed up... To you know if I can power this motor with just the three large wires? Do you need the sensor wires? I've seen some hub motors with only 3 wires coming out. Thanks again
Thank You!
Hello, I just came across your video, I have a hub bafang motor G062 1000W and it's spinning inside but there is no traction on the wheel, any idea of what i could be? By the way are you from Ireland?
The teeth could be stripped off the gears, but that's only a guess. Yes, I'm from Ireland
@@dominicogallachoir4554 the gears and the teeth all over are fine, nice one I live in Limerick, do you think I could send you the motor to have a look?
@@danieltapia6200 No, I can't take that project on right now unfortunately. But I will ask around to see if I can get someone who can help you.
Hello sir nice video explained well.
I have a question that is if i remove the white wire does it increase speed because it faces the cap magnet i.e. it counts the rpm
It might remove the 25km/h speed limit. However, it will also give you "speed sensor abnormality" and stop the odometer from working so I would not recommend.
There are other ways to remove the 25km/h limit if that's what you want - See page 10 of the Bafang C961 manual.
@@dominicogallachoir4554 i got my answer thankyou for your answer i just did it and my ebikes speed increased from 30km/h to 31.5km/h 😂😂😂😂😂 so much so i soldered the wire again. Thanks for your reply
Sir ,, I damaged the head of the screws ...3 of them ...how do I remove them now ... please advise
please can someone tell me what is that hall sensor sitting on the top of the circuit board ?
Not sure I understand - are you looking for the part number?
Hello Dominic, could you please make a video on how to make the connections in the motor cable
I won't be able to make a video. But what you need to do is to learn to solder. Get a cheap soldering iron, some solder, some old bits of wire, and do lots of practice. There are plenty tutorials on the web to show you how. Also look up how to use "heat-shrink". That part is super easy.
Can someone please help me the issue with mine is , in this video he shows a picture of the wireing going into the hub and is encased by a silver metal spring for me that part keeps twisting every time the bike starts to turn and stops , and is causing it to tear , how do I stop that?
Hello, nice video but I have a question. When you mention that you need cassete lock ring tool with decent size in the middle, how did you remove the original nut that is on the axle and holds it to the bike frame? When I unscrew mine it is still stuck on the power cable and can not be forced over the connector.
Oh that's awkward. For me the axle nut passed over the power connector easily enough if I remember correctly. I don't know what to do in your case :/
just bought a new bafang 1000watt rear hub motor bc i scuffed the wire harness up pretty good and it short circuited the system. freesky also said i needed a new motor and so i bought one not knowing about this video. the original motor has 500 miles and new cost me $450 !!
smh 🤦♂️
Thanks for the video..Where do I get an electronic board like the one in the motor on which the six wires are attached. Can you provide me with a specific site link?
Unfortunately I have no idea where to buy a replacement board. Please let us know if you do find a source
Are the three thick wires connected together somewhere. When I use my multimeter to test for shortages they all buzz if I test in between them. Is that normal or are they shorted somewhere?
Yes that's normal. The three thick wires are connected to each other via the coils in the motor
Great video - do you have to remove the cassette? I have been looking for a socket that can get over the connector but can't find one. Any help is appreciated.
I can't remember if you have to remove the cassette. But you should be able to find the tool in most bike shops. Ask for a "cassette lockring removal tool". If you don't want to buy the tool, most bike shops will even remove the cassette for you on the spot if you ask nicely.
Wow. Well done!
Thanks!
My 1000w rear hub motor has 10 wires. A brown one along with the white speed sensor. I don't know what it does or is supposed to do as I don't use the bafang controller and display. I wire directly to a generic controller no display.
Good job
what is that 6th wire ? on hall harness and its white.
How can I get a hold of a replacement cable?
I don't have a source for a cable unfortunately
Nice video. V useful. What Is the purpose of undoing the 3 screws at 2:09 on the video please ?
I can't remember. It's possible that taking the screws out was unnecessary because I was figuring things out as I went along
@@dominicogallachoir4554 Yes. I was doing one yesterday. Removing these three doesn’t seem to release anything or make anything easier.
I have done the strip down and broken cable removal. Soldering I have saved for another session. 👍
Im curious what a repair like this would cost from a shop?
Thanks Dominic, your accent sounded a bit Ireland. ?
yes indeed
Thanks for video -- I have broken white wire where it comes out of axel. what does white wire control? Where can i get a new harness from connection back to hub? Also, can I get to location where you cut the harness and just slice in a new piece to old wire and not solder to board??
Hi Dan. It's a long while, so I can't really remember all the details, but I do think the white wire is some sort of sensor - maybe for hub speed or temperature or something. Maybe try eBay for a harness. And yes, I think you could just solder in a new piece for the white wire instead of cutting the harness and re-soldering to the board.
Do you know where you bought your new cable from mate. Got a mate500 bike where the same problem has happened
I didn't buy the cable - I took the original one and shortened it by cutting out the damaged section. Don't know where you can buy, unfortunately.
I need help!
My magnum premium. Has the same broken area like yours but my screen works good with no error codes . The ebike turns on but doesnt drive
awesome video, very helpfull
How did you connect the 3 main power wires besides having the heat shrink wrap?
Solder
Which gear lube did you use?
Grease, the petrochemical kind
Good video, thanks.
But do you have a video of how to change the motor thread?
So, was it the power cable fault or hall sensor?
If power cable as you did changed full cable, why not to cut the plug and solder new plug in.
The 6 screws MUST be removed on my Bafang model: they do not hold in the Place the freehub body, but the plates.
I would like to know what is the property of the 8 pins with the colors of the wires please..diagrame
my fat bike no longer works I have to fix my bike it's the only means of transport to go to work
snif
Hi. How does the rotor not scratch the stator, under the weight of the rider and bumps?
There are two cartridge bearings that support the axle and rotor as they sit within the stator. You can see one of the bearings at 3:21. The other bearing is visible at 3:27 (in the very centre of the hub shell).
Good repair 👍
Thanks Tony!
Dominic Ó Gallachóir wou are welcome. I see that you can get a new full length cable on eBay for around £10. Might be worth it if you ever have to do the job again.
hi hello I want to recover the motor please answer
Hey man I got a problem where my motor doesn’t fully give a power. I went to a bike shop they told me to replace whole motor. Is it same problem as yours.
Can you tell me where you bought replacement cable from? Link? Thanks!!
There is no replacement cable. I shortened the one I had.
Hey! Great video.
I have a question about the motor conditions before the repair as I am going through something similar.
Was there any clicking in the motor if you tried to apply some sort of motions to the motor? Thanks!
Hi Roy! No, I don't remember any clicking
@@dominicogallachoir4554 hmm mine twitches a little when I try to use the motor.. does it seem like a hall sensor problem?
@@royendo5910 I really have no way to know unfortunately
Great stuff.
Glad you enjoyed it
You missed a bit, a new cable, the old one you cut will be useless as it's no longer going to reach.
You can buy an extension wire
hi Dominic great video you know your stuff i am in ireland too and was wondering if you can help i converted a ninebot mini pro to a wheelchair[ as you do] i had bad heart attack but something went wrong it showed error code 39 motor problem so tested both motor hall sensors one was testing perfect 5 volts dc to zero volts dc when wheel was turned but the other wheel was showing a dead short between the red and black testing down the cable into the motor , on opening it up two sensors where completely burned out so replaced all three with ss 41 , couldnt read what was on the old sensors they were too badly burned. the middle sensor has reversed live with the sensor output so looking at all three sensors the left and right one had the live on the right hand side and the sensor out put green and blue on the left , the yellow middle sensor was on the right and the positive on the left so I read that what people do is then turn the middle sensor around so as to make the writing ss41 face away from the stator to be just like the other two, built it back up now its bleeping error code 18 and the motor not sure if its both or one is shaking and on the app its saying motor shake ride with caution so was wondering could there be something else wrong , I did fit a second hand supposed to be working ok mother board , any help greatly appreciated thanks
No, I don't have any tips for you
How did you fix the wire that looked damaged at the beginning of the video? I have the same problem with my wire looking like that but I’m not sure if it’s external or internal unless I take a look inside
You have to cut out the damaged part of the wire and solder the fresh new wire ends into the motor circuitry.
My cable does not come through the gears and its a bafang it cones out the right side if you face the bike head on anyone know what are the difference
The same for me.....thank's a lot.
Can anyone tell me where can I buy those wires? I am using bafang 500W motor. Thank you.
can a motor trigger a 30 error ? i replaced harness , controler and display on a radpowerbike and still have 30 error ...
My hub motor goes to error 8 or 9, disconnect then connect again, power from the motor will sometime jump then quit, can you please tell me what is going on?
Hi Greg, I don't know unfortunately. But kind sounds like a dogey wire or connection
Is it possible to replace the parts with the threads
Do you mean the axle? It's a long time since I did this repair, so I can't recall from memory. But I assume it is possible to replace the axle if you can find a replacement part (I have no idea where to buy replacement axles).
@@dominicogallachoir4554 ah ok thanks
Great clip, thx
Can you provide links to amazon for the tools
How can I remove the speed limeter?
I stopped at about 3 minutes and 7 seconds into the video I'm sorry but I'm a mechanic and a bike shop and if you're going to change the cable you might as well change the halt sensors as well all you have to do is unscrew the two Phillips screws that are holding down the circuit board and you can access everything as long as you have some of the insulating paper that was originally there you can still reconnect the wires from underneath if you're going to reconnect the wires or resolder them on the top of the board you should cover it with a little bit of hot glue or some sort of silicone sealant and make sure that the top cover is not rub against any of the contact points of the wiring mind you but it's also necessary to use some silicone at the point where the motor cable enters the inside of the motor body and possibly a little bit on the outside of the axle where the motor cable enters the Axel from outside to protect from any water Ingress
forgot to say both motors are now testing the same 5vdc -0vdc no shorts on any wires at all with each other or ground
Hi I have a new ebike kit wheel wont turn when any phase wires touch each other when not o bike or power connected when all set up wheel wont turn feels jammed thanks if you can help
Hi dave john. It's normal for the motor to be difficult to turn when you touch some of the phase wires together. That's because it's effectively behaving as a short-circuited generator (very stiff).
On the other hand, if you connected the electronics properly and the wheel is jammed then it could be mounted incorrectly into the frame of the bike.
hey... i have 36 volt 500 watt hub engine front wheel kit that i bought for 6 years ago...it started to cut and stop when im climing...never done that before..so i thought my batteri was finished..so i bought a new 36 volt 10.4 amp..but it still keep stopping when it get to a hill/climing..so im woundring what is wrong..? can some body help me..:)
My guess would be the motor controller. Some power electronics inside it could be coming near the end of their lives and overheating under the strain of a big hill. But I can't rule out other issues like the motor/sensors etc.
@@dominicogallachoir4554 okey...thanks..would any controller 36 volt fit to my 500watt engine?
yeah ..and i gets abit hot to...so i think thats the answer..:)
@@1379kalel I don't think so. It needs to be at least generally the same technology, if not the same model. Also, the connector needs to be compatible.
Hey man i have the same problem with my wires getting cut in the axle..Does anyone know what the wire is called...I know its a phase cable but I can't find a replacement phase wire anywhere..
I don't know. All I can advise is check places that sell various spare parts for Bafang motors (assuming that's your brand). You will probably have to do some trawling of the internet. That's assuming you don't have enough slack to just shorten the cable as shown in the video here.
Where did you buy the motor thread?
Is problem motor hub power is gone and work. how is repair?
This all depends on what's causing the problem. Is there damage on any of the parts? Are you getting any errors? Is the battery charging okay? You may need to do some experiments to figure out what's causing the problem.
do you think if you disconnected the speed wire it would disable it
If you disconnect the speed sensor wire you will definitely get the Error 21 warning which will be annoying at least and causes some other issues with the system. If I remember right, I wasn't able to change the power setting once Error 21 appeared (only exception was by turning the bike off and on again). The motor may kind of work otherwise but this would be a very poor user experience
@@dominicogallachoir4554 no the controller doesn't have much. just 3 power settings
🗽Nice work👍
thanks Peter :)
What is the nomber of hall senser
Where did you get the wire? You can't repair these motors because no one knows where to get the wire?
I just cut away the damaged bit and shortened the original wire in the motor
Where did you buy the cable ? Or the name of the cable . Thanks
Type in 9 pin ebike cable
I didn't need to buy a cable - I just shortened the one I had
hello DOM I BOUGHT A BAFANG 8FUN 250W HUB OF A GERMAN COMPANy THEY HAVE NOT BEEN HELPFULL AS IN TAKE THE MONEY AND RUN IT HAS 6 PINS ON IT 3 THICK 3 THIN ITS SOMETHING I HAVE NEVER SEEN BEFORE I CANT SEEM TO GET A SPEED CONTROLLER ANYWHERE FOR IT AS I HAVE NO IDEA IF ITS SENSOR OR SENSORLESS CAN YOU HELP OR ADVISE MY FRIEND PLEASE ?? PICS AVAILABLE
Unfortunately, Bafang parts distribution is patchy. There are some sellers on Aliexpress that do a lot of Bafang/8fun parts, might be worth a try. I suspect your motor is sensor-less but can't promise.
@@dominicogallachoir4554 thankyou my friend after weeks of research high n low i believe it is also sensorless as the 3 heavy pins is what seem to matter il keep you posted from what im told the 6 pin male connector goes into a 9 pin female
при 100 градусов стяжки не расплавит ?) лучше на силиконовый герметик тогда
New subscriber here.
Thanks and welcome aboard :)
is the hub speed sensor inside this one?
Yes, it must be. I strongly suspect that the "sp" pad on the PCB connects to the speed sensor. See the white wire connection at 3:03
Where's my lucky charms 😆😂
Any body fund the wire yet
Can you fly to New York and repair mine? The border is open 😁
If you buy me the tickets then no problem ;)
@@dominicogallachoir4554 I think I can repair but I can't get it open with a screwdriver I think I need an electric tool , bike stores that repair are too lazy to fix it they say they just replace parts ...I mean if that's how they fix then even I can open a bike shop
Yeah i'ma just pay them the money fuck that
hahaha
This moter hall senser nomber
hi hello I want to recover the motor please answer
hi hello I want to recover the motor please answer