Thank you Andy! I bought a refurbished PA9-8 for my mother's 600E and your video made this a 10 minute job. The old motor was stuck, so your trouble shooting made it easy. Now I just need to find someone to rebuild the original motor, since I would like to have the machine all original. I'm sentimental. My mother and I had beautiful experiences involving this machine. Again thank you!
I'm glad you found the video. I see it has 25K views now so lots of folks are interested. I'm happy you are saving your Mom's machine. Happy sewing, and look for my reply to your request.
Mr Andy, this video helped me get my machine running today! She came from Goodwill as “not running”. I removed the motor, cleaned her exterior and put her back in. I think the positive/negative plugins were not connected correctly as it originally would not move or even light up. I’m going to watch more of your videos so that I can refurb my motor. Now I just need to get the feed dog lever moving (a work in patience) and she’ll be as good as new! Thank you so much sir!!
@@andytubesewing1953 Hi and yes sir! It’s a 500A. I also watched your video on the feed dog lever/needle plate. Mine is SUPER stuck under the plastic screw/nut. I can’t get it to push back/in at all. I’m going to keep working on it as the right side is moving fine. Thanks so much for your response and I hope you’re doing well!❤️
@@jodiepotter6029 Oh! The famous Rocketeer model. Congratulations! What prevents the lever from being pushed back so you can turn the plastic nut is the pins that push up the needle plate are stuck with dried or very gooey oil. I turn the machine upside down and use a WD40 spray (or similar, even alcohol) with a little tube down into the pin and tube the pin sits in. If you can raise the needle plate a little you can put it in the top around the pins. This can soften the gunk and allow things to start moving. I have also used a hair dryer to heat the parts from underneath (not too hot on the plastic nut) which can soften the gunk. Here are a couple playlists of videos that can help: th-cam.com/play/PLsCOZgzzaiKJZaZn2zl3LsnV2d7UhrqvX.html th-cam.com/play/PLsCOZgzzaiKLiDl9yFTP6mJgQmz5lj4NO.html I like having the Service Manual for my machines. Singer made the manuals for their service techs and they are worthy documents. If you are interested in the manual you can download it FREE from the sewing dude: sewingdude.wordpress.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/09/singer-500-service-manual.pdf Happy for you have that machine, Jodie, and thanks for watching my channel.
@@andytubesewing1953 Thank you so much sir!! I appreciate the service manual link as well as the playlist links. I feel so empowered!!! I’m going to take my time and work on getting that left post loose. Take care of yourself and thank you again! ❤️
A good video! I bought a 411G a few years ago, so far it is running not too bad, apart from a bad control pedal (a new old stock electronic one is arriving soon). It's good to see how easy it is to remove and replace the motor!
Thanks. I've never seen a 411G but have heard from owners how much they enjoy the machine. You may like this playlist of working on a 401A American-Made Slant-O-Matic: th-cam.com/play/PLsCOZgzzaiKLiDl9yFTP6mJgQmz5lj4NO.html I appreciate your comment and thank you for watching.
Thank You so much for the great video and presentation. I just purchased a Singer 503a. When I was testing to see if it sewed the motor starting smoking. When I tried to remove the motor it would not move. Now I now the proper sequence in removing the motor.
Thanks! It's my specialty, haha. You can do this too!. I have a few videos about it. Here is just one of them: th-cam.com/video/SXn57XzNiRQ/w-d-xo.html Be sure you watch a video about how to oil it right after cleaning before you wash one, OK?
I have wanted to purchase an all-metal machine. During my research, I found a referral to Andy Tube! I made sure you had videos about the Singer 500A Rockateer before I bought it on EBay. I am waiting for its delivery and in the meantime I have watched some of your videos and I love them! I have learned so much.
@@athertonca Thanks very much, and thanks to whoever gave a referral to Andy Tube. How nice of them! So, I am excited for you and your new Rocketeer 500A. YAY, what fun. I have not done any videos of it in great detail, but my 56 video series on the 404, and the series on the 503A should help quite a bit. You can also go here and download a FREE Copy of the Original Singer Service Manual for your machine. 46 pages of instructions for removing, replacing and adjusting all the parts on it. sewingdude.files.wordpress.com/2012/09/singer-500-service-manual.pdf Once you get started it can help to know all the functions and settings on the machine, so you have a good idea of what the machine can do and how it works. Here is a link to a FREE copy of the 50 page (I know!) SInger Instruction Manual. Some light reading while you wait for your baby to arrive. Best of luck.
I just now lucked into a very clean 500A. It was well cared for, just hasn't been lubed in a long time. Runs smooth now. Thank you very much for your work!
Congratulations on your "new" Rocketeer! Thanks for the nice comment. You probably saw the maintenance video for model 503A, the sister to your machine? th-cam.com/video/Sn2XD4EILFM/w-d-xo.html I'm glad you found my channel. Take Care.
Welcome to Any Tube Winifred. I'm glad you liked the video. Im sure you can change a motor now. One step at a time and I usually take some pictures during the removal so Im sure to arrange the wirin correctly when I put it back. You may be interested in my Motor Restoration Series for the type of motor in the video. It show how to dismantle, clean, check/change the brushes and so forth. th-cam.com/play/PLsCOZgzzaiKJSu0T9oeaheTZsrUe91kkZ.html Hope to see you again. Take Care.
Hi Andy, Is it possible to buy a good replacement motor for a 401a? I think it might need a new motor, it makes a lot of noise but doesn’t move, however the fabric will move under the presser foot if I turn the hand wheel. Thank you. I appreciate you, your, videos, and all your knowledge. Marci V
Hi, Marci, Thanks for watching my channel. Used motors can be found on eBay, Etsy, Facebook Marketplace, etc. It is best to buy a model-specific motor to be sure of compatibility. That said, I've never encountered a "failed" motor. There are plenty of slow motors that need cleaning and sometimes carbon replacements. Here is a Playlist of videos for restoring your type of motor: th-cam.com/play/PLsCOZgzzaiKJSu0T9oeaheTZsrUe91kkZ.html EVEN MORE COMMON however is a foot pedal in need of cleaning and adjusting. They are also 60+ years old and seldom get attention. Plenty of folks have replaced the motor only to find it was not the problem. Here is a Playlist for restoring a Button-Style Foot Controller, the most common type used on model 401A th-cam.com/play/PLsCOZgzzaiKL6ePPxLpmnWSzTyxPKTb71.html A simple test to isolate the motor and pedal is to put the machine in bobbin winding mode and run the motor. That mode disengages all the moving parts except the handwheel. If the motor won't turn the handwheel you have narrowed it down to the motor or pedal and can proceed with some cleaning and adjusting for a meager cost other than your time. Best of luck and thanks for keeping the machine in service.
Hi Andy. First of all thank you so much for your videos.. I am learning so much from them. My question is about 431g Singer motor. It is stuck in the machine and cannot be taken out. I have tapped, used penetrating oil and have no results.
Yes, sometimes the motors are very stuck into the support tube. Usually, it is because old oil/grease has worked into the tube and on the outside of the motor casing. It's like they are glued or varnished together now. It is hard to get WD-40 or similar into the space. Remove the handwheel if you know how. You can run the motor for a couple minutes then stop. That heats it up and when you stop it gets about 20 degrees hotter. You are trying to soften the oil to get the motor to move a little. You can also blow hot air, from the bottom, up around the motor to warm things up also. Run the motor and blow air at the same time if possible. I have taken the motor brush covers off while blowing air. See in the beginning of this video for removal if you do not know how: th-cam.com/video/juPaQW3mZ7I/w-d-xo.html Because there is a fan in the motor, blowing hot air with a hairdryer also gets pulled inside the upper part of the motor housing and that is what is stuck in the tube. Not a good idea to hammer down on the top of the motor as it may bend the motor shaft if you hit very hard. So running the motor (it's ok to do that with the brush covers off, the small sparks will not hurt unless you have explosive fumes in the room 👀) while using a hairdryer at the same time is the most effective heating. When you stop the motor, stop the hairdryer and let things sit for a while. I have at times, waiting for the motor to cool down a little, stood the machine in normal position and keeping the bobbin end down on the table/bench, lifted the motor end of the machine about 3 to 5 inches, and dropped it onto the table/bench. That has "jarred" the motor lose a few times and will not hurt the motor/shaft.
Have used a number of your great videos. Now looking & not finding anywhere how to remove the motor from a Singer #778 slant needle Touch & Sew. Is this covered ANYWHERE on the internet?
Touch & Swear. model 778 with the free arm, right? I think the motor is wired to the switch and wire terminal with a small bracket holding in into the tube. I don't know much about them in general, but I know a guy who worked at Singer when they all came out for sale. He has a store and knows more about the T&S models than anyone I know. store.tandtrepair.com/ He has some manuals and so forth about them. I see a $6 motor repair manual but don't know if it shows how to remove it from the machine. store.tandtrepair.com/tosew700se.html You can ask about the motor or if he has a repair guide that could help. If you end up buying something form his site he will give you 20% off with my coupon code of andy-h-yt. Good Luck!
Hi Andy, great videos and channel! Question regarding these motors. I have 2 401's one is kind of ratty and the other is really clean. I serviced both motors but the one on the nice machine is really noisy (high pitch) and I think I may try to change the upper bearing on it. But I tried swapping motors and it seems like they didn't work well in the different machine. On one of the machines, I could not even turn the balance wheel with the motor installed, and on the other machine it did not feel as smooth with a little bit of minor binding. It's as if the respective motor's worm drives/balance wheel fiber gears "wore into each other", but that does not seem right. Seems like only the softer fiber wheel would wear, but on inspection I can't see anything obvious. Any advice? Thanks!
I don't have the machines here but I can suggest things I would look at/for. First, when testing a motor swap always have the machine in bobbin winding mode with the clutch disengaged by having the knob turned to the left. You want the motor to be turning the handwheel only. Always turn the handwheel toward you and not away which stresses the motor carbons. Be sure both motors have the same motor type on the black bottom cover, like PA-8 or similar. The machines are 60+ years old now and people may have swapped out a few parts already. Different motor types can have different pinion gear, longer or shorter motor shafts, etc. Be sure the motor is fully inserted into the tube as far as possible for the best mesh between the pinion and handwheel gears. Yes, the top motor bearing can wear out and start screeching or "jetting" sounds. Some folks put 1 or 2 (only) drops of 30W oil on the bearing to see if it quiets back down a little as proof it is the bearing and not other metal-on-metal sounds. You already have Matt's bearing video in your Favorites File on YT and that may help you change the bearing. th-cam.com/video/R4R377aTOho/w-d-xo.html Do not cheap out on the bearing as it is a lot of labor to replace.
@@andytubesewing1953 Thanks for getting back! Looks like good advice. I'll have to remove the motors again and really compare them side by side. I will attempt the 30w oil trick, I've seen that in a few places. BTW, I've really enjoyed your videos, I've done quite a few maintenance procedures watching your videos, they are very detailed! ATB.
@@andytubesewing1953 Hi Andy. Some info that might help others: I was able to change out the bearing successfuly, and while not a super easy procedure it was much easier than I expected. I pretty much followed Matt's procedure in the video above, except I used a woodworking vice instead of the pipe clamp. To get around Matt's problem when driving the shaft out, I simply used a hole saw to drill out a hole in a block of wood to allow the commutator to fit inside, with the block supporting the aluminum base of the motor housing. The vise worked really good, with excellent control. Matt bought some spacers for the bearing and shaft installation, I was able to find two sockets from a ratchet set that worked perfect.
Hello Andy, really enjoy your videos. I just became a proud owner of a Singer model 431G convertible that came from the UK. Over in that part of the world they use 220v motors (which my machine came with.) When I got it, I switched it over with a Singer 404 110v motor and also replaced the wiring harness. My knowledge of electronics is very low; I just know basic electricity. My question is: I have heard of adopting a transducer to use up or down for 220v to 110v. Is there a gain or loss of power or torch by using such a system (to use the 220v motor) or should I stay with the 110v motor that is now on the machine?
If that 404 motor is working well in your 431G I would keep using it. I've wondered about that, like if the 404 pinion gear would mesh properly with the handwheel gear. I guess it does and thanks for sharing that with us. I have seen devices advertised to convert 220V to 110V, step up step down converter. I don't get how an input of 110V can be made to 220V output. www.amazon.com/Pyle-voltage-converter-Transformer-Charging/dp/B00EEJZRO2/ref=sr_1_3?dchild=1&keywords=Step+Up+and+Down+Converter&qid=1617575451&sr=8-3 They come rated by output in Watts. Watts = Amps X Volts. For example, your 404 motor is rated at 0.7Amp times 110 volts = 77 watts of power, very low. It was recommended to me to buy a converter rated for double the need to handle surges when starting a motor, so a converter that could handle 150 watts would work for your 404 motor if you were using it in the EU. I do not know what the amp rating is on your 220V. My feeling is using the 404 motor is a perfect solution if it works properly in the 431G machine. Why bother with another piece of electronic equipment if not needed. In the Philippines, I use converters to run our Whirlpool refrigerator and sharp microwave oven which were made here in the USA. That converted the local 220-240V to 110-120 for the applianced. It also had a built-in surge protector and it worked very well and the appliances work normally and have not suffered any damage.
wow! That has got to be the cleanest old sewing machine I've ever seen. Is that a new motor & how did you get the inside of that machine so clean or was it just well maintained? Why is there no grease at all on the gears, are they new? Beautiful clean machine!
Hey! Thank you very much. That is the original motor, just rebuilt. See this slide show @ 1:49 for better pictures. th-cam.com/video/RZKDuVM86Jw/w-d-xo.html I watched some of the playlist videos on your channel, and they show some good methods of cleaning. 15 years ago when I did my first restore of a Singer 404, I used hundreds of Q-tips, dozens of pipe cleaners, a quart of 92% Alcohol and some WD-40. Hours of work. Too many hours. I developed my own cleaning compound and just use it. You can use many of the cleaners in the videos you saved. For me it is easier to just partially breakdown the machine, removing the smaller parts and and much of the electrical system as possible, or covering the motor with Ziploc bags. I never remove any gears as they are factory matched and tuned. I set the machine on an empty 5 gallon paint bucket and spray with my cleaner, wait 2 minutes and spray it off with a garden hose. Next is blow dry with a hair dryer or garden leaf blower. I clean the small parts the same way at my utility sink. Reassemble, oil & grease, reset everything, like timing, stitch length, bar heights, etc. then 3 coats of carnauba wax on the outside surfaces. Finally test sew all the stitches and any fine tuning needed. Actually, there is PLENTY of grease on the gears in this video. Most videos I see show to apply WAY TOO MUCH grease. I use a small water color paint brush, cut down the bristles to about 1/4 inch, and apply a LIGHT coat. That is all you need. I only use Tri-flow oil & grease. Amazon or Ebay, but I often find a better price at a local bicycle shop. www.triflowlubricants.com/ You can get a free copy of any Singer Instruction Manual here: www.singerco.com/support/instruction-manuals I'm familiar with many Singer machines now, but I still buy a copy of some Service & Repair manuals from Alex. He has a huge variety and the best prices I have found. They show how to remove & replace parts and make most adjustments to factory specs. manualsoncd.com/product-category/singer-service-manuals/ Some machines I give to charities and some I sell on Craigslist to pay my costs. I'm sure you can do as good a job of cleaning as I do. I don't have any special talents other than following the directions in the manual. Best wishes.
Hi Barbara, The same motor may fit other Singer models too. You may be able to buy new brushes for your motor, or a new motor, from Sue at sew-classic. shop.sew-classic.com/Motors-and-Motor-Parts_c21.htm Also, Connie at thrifty farm girl will try to find one for you. thriftyfarmgirl.com/ Duane in South Dakota has helped me before with hard to find parts. Contact him at his eBay store and tell him what you are looking for. stores.ebay.com/duanesec45bottlesmore/ Good Luck.
Just came in posession of one of these and took it to a repair place to have it looked over, and was told the motor had seized. He pulled that, flushed it and reoiled it, and got it working again. He told me that a gear is worn but not which or where (they're very busy rn tho with the whole Covid thing) and I'm wondering if it's worth going back through and trying to find it? I was told it just has a slight whur noise if anything and it should be fine, and I probably won't have to worry about it, but I plan to get another almost 60 years out of it if I can
"reoiled it" No kidding? I wish I could see that. There is a metal pinion gear outside the motor at the end of the motor shaft. That pinion gear meshes with a type of plastic gear on the handwheel. If a gear was worn, then maybe the handwheel gear, but I've only seen a picture of a broken one once. The motor uses no oil. The pinion gear & handwheel gear should be greased. I wonder what he "flushed" the motor with? I would have enjoyed seeing that also. Where the motor shaft comes out the top of the aluminum housing, and below the pinion gear, is a motor shaft bearing. If he "Flushed" that with something that removes grease he may have washed out the lubricant inside that bearing. You know, little steel ball bearings in a circle around the inside of the bearing. If those are dry now then they will be metal-on-metal and whine is putting it mildly. He may have put some oil on the top of that bearing trying to quiet it down a little bit, IDK. If he but oil on the pinion gear or handwheel gear that is not good and it should be cleaned off completely and replaced with grease like TriFlow Clear Synthetic Grease is what most of us would use. So, I have a 6 part video series about servicing a PA style motor if you want to peek at some of them to understand the motor, gear, etc. the playlist is here: th-cam.com/play/PLsCOZgzzaiKJSu0T9oeaheTZsrUe91kkZ.html I'd be curious to know the going rate for a motor "flushing & reoiling" so I'd know how much I'm missing out on these days. Oh, maybe the worn gear is not on the motor and I misunderstood? Anyway, I hope that gives you a path and good luck.
@@andytubesewing1953 I haven't plugged it into try it yet (though I've seen what it's sewn since being serviced.) I was kinda thinking that myself, it seemed odd a motor like this would take oil. I'm wondering if he was just mixed up and just meant he cleaned off that motor shaft and regreased the whole assembly? It certainly smells like fresh grease, the whole machine. The motor was certainly seized, I'll believe him on that one. Something was seized. I may be a younger chick but I've been around enough mechanical assemblies to know there needs to be grease or oil on points of contact between metal. I was charged $80 to go through it and clean/regrease it, reassemble the motor, and do minor work on the cord to the pedal. I only have $110 in this machine total, and was not quoted up front for the work sadly. They're all backed up with this rn, everyone's machines are down, I'd like to chalk it up to that if it was miscommunication...
@@faultyillustration3197 I've never had a motor seize. It's usually the bearings for the main arm shafts that are stuck in dried up oil. What they did would cost $75 here so no worries at the price. Besides that motor series, there are two playlists for model 301 on my main playlist page: th-cam.com/channels/USPDsHaFtRoz1VA2U1xJ4w.htmlfeatured?view_as=public One is for "Coco" and the other is a technical series. Also a playlist for rehabbing the foot controller. Everything about model 301 for you to do-it-yourself. A free instruction manual can still be downloaded for free directly from Singer at this link: www.singer.com/search/support?title=301 It's been my observation that "younger chics" make some of the best sewing machine mechanics because they have patient attitudes and can follow directions well. That machine is one of the best Singer ever made, by far and with normal care and maintenance you could use it to teach your grandkids to sew someday (should you care too 😉)
@@andytubesewing1953 Honestly? This 500A is the first sewing machine I've ever owned or will use so I've probably just got cold feet on it. I'm hoping what I was told was truly a mixup, and if something is wrong I'll just go for inspecting it myself (seeing you take these things apart sure helps me feel more confident in em haha!) I certainly trust myself to be able to hear metal grinding if worst came to worst. Thank you so much for the resources and responding so timely! If I may just pick your brain once more, how often should these things be greased? And just at the top there where you grease it in this video? I have the original manual with this but you've worked on em so
@@faultyillustration3197 Wait! A 500? Why did I think we were talking a 301? No worries. Here are the videos for model 401A. th-cam.com/play/PLsCOZgzzaiKLiDl9yFTP6mJgQmz5lj4NO.html You're 500 is based on the 401A and has the same mechanics. Only the body shape and bobbin winder are different. The 401A videos will work for your 500. Here are the videos for model 503A: th-cam.com/play/PLsCOZgzzaiKJZaZn2zl3LsnV2d7UhrqvX.html It is the less fancy sister to your 500A and the videos will help you, including this tutorial all about general servicing of it, including oil & grease. th-cam.com/video/Sn2XD4EILFM/w-d-xo.html Finally, here are videos for model 403A, the sister to the 401A, and first version of the 503A. th-cam.com/play/PLsCOZgzzaiKKyqvdDRwS-9MfLuwSNJTcg.html If I missed something in the other two playlists it will be covered in here. Please do get the free instruction manual for model 500: www.singer.com/search/support?title=500 50 pages of info all about your machine and how to use it. Also has oiling & greasing instructions. Since the machine will be in your family the next 80 to 100 years you may as well know all about it, right? Oh, wait, you said you have the manual, so skip that. How often to grease? At least once or maybe a couple times a year for the grease unless you just sew a ton with it. Oiling is different and should happen more often. My wife sews on a 301 3 or 4 times per week and oils it every couple months or so. Sometimes she oils the bobbin case race at the beginning of each new project. one drop of oil. If you use the machine a lot you will know by sound when it needs lubrication. Always wipe off as much of the old oil and grease as you can. The videos will mention the brands that are good. The 500A and 503A are known as Rocketeers because of their body style ( pretty sexy and futuristic for a sewing machine in the 1950s) and in today's dollars it would cost about $2875 new. Lucky you to have one!
Hey Andy, thanks for the detailed instruction! I’m wondering, would you be familiar with converting an electrical machine to manual treadle? I have a Singer model 630
I've never even touched a treadle machine. I will say this though; the model 630 has an internal motor that directly contacts the handwheel gear to make the arm shaft and all parts of the machine move. You can certainly remove the motor, but what about the handwheel? It is made with a gear and not for use with a motor belt (or treadle belt). To use the 630 as a treadle you'd need to also remove the handwheel and replace it with a wheel that can accept a treadle belt. I have no idea of a handwheel like that for a 630. It would certainly take some effort to research handwheels that accept the treadle belts, then measure to see if they have the correct machine diameter of a hole to fit onto the arm shaft bushing of the 630 and be able to attach somehow. Then fit it all into a treadle table or cabinet. Whew!
Wow. Thank you again for such an in depth explanation and I appreciate so much your explaining all that when the end result doesn’t pertain to your area of expertise. Much much much appreciated. Be well 🌞
Debbie, I just returned from overseas where I did not have internet access. Two times that I had a smoking motor I found oil (like Wesson cooking oil) had gotten inside on the brushes of one motor,, and faulty wiring causing voltage spikes and arcing was melting the wires of the other. Was it actually the motor inside that was smoking, or maybe the wiring at the bottom connection? Also, at the top of the motor shaft there are bearings pressed into a circular casing. If they were dried out and the shaft started turning, then maybe the dried grease remnants would smoke. Have you been able to sew on your machine yet? We would like your opinion of this model. Best Wishes.
Hi Mr Andy , My singer 401G sewing machine rotates slowly & when the foot rest is pressed smoke comes out from the machine motor. What is the remedy for this? I live in Colombo,Srilanka. Is it possible to buy a foot Press pedal for this singer 401 G model machine .Expect your reply soon.
It is rare to have smoke from the motor. That is usually caused by oil getting inside the motor. You can dismantle and clean the motor by following the videos in this Playlist: th-cam.com/play/PLsCOZgzzaiKJSu0T9oeaheTZsrUe91kkZ.html I do not know what is available in Srilanka but in the USA you can buy used foot pedals, new carbon stack foot pedals, and new electronic foot pedals. You can also clean and rehab the existing foot pedals by following this Playlist: th-cam.com/play/PLsCOZgzzaiKL6ePPxLpmnWSzTyxPKTb71.html If you'd like to know more about working on your 401G (401A in the USA) you can download a FREE copy of the 401A SERVICE MANUAL from this link: sewingdude.files.wordpress.com/2012/09/singer-401-service-manual1.pdf This is the end of your expected reply. Good Luck.
Hi, I just got back my singer 611g from a sewing machine repair place and they said they couldn't replace the motor (and tried really hard to get me to give it to them for a 20-40€ credit for another machine). I refused as I know the motor can be replaced. But I'm struggling finding replacements, I see ones for other singer machines in the 600 or 700 range that look the same but I don't know if they're interchangeable. Do you know what I should look for? I've tried researching this but there isn't a lot of info. Best I got was the parts list for the 631 that says the part number for the motor is 93115 but that didn't lead to anything.
First off, thank you for not giving away your machine to them. The "g" in your 611g model signifies it was made in Germany. Singer USA never kept any documentation for them in the US. It is almost impossible to find Service Manuals and Parts lists for the G models. I've just never had much luck. What has worked for some of my viewers is to take detailed measurements & pictures of the bad part (if they have it) and contact sellers to see if they will take the time to check a part they may be selling. Many of the PA-style Motors (301, 401, 403, 404, 500, 503, 6xx) have the motor type etched into the bakelite/0plastic motor housing on the very bottom. If you do try the measurement route for the motor watch for the size of the base, the height of the motor shaft, what, if anything, is attached at the very top of the shaft, and the pinion gear measurements at the top of the motor housing on the shaft. If I may ask, why are you replacing the motor anyway?❓ In all the machines I have worked on I only had one bad motor. The windings were totally destroyed after they had plugged a 110V motor into a 240V electrical outlet by mistake. I've rehabbed many Slant Needle Motors with great success. Usually, they only need to have the commutator cleaned of all the carbon deposits. th-cam.com/video/pzq4tv8qn94/w-d-xo.html I have a playlist of videos for a completed rehab of a slant motor: th-cam.com/play/PLsCOZgzzaiKJSu0T9oeaheTZsrUe91kkZ.html Often I had complaints of a very slow motor or barely running motor but usually found the cause was the foot controller. The 60+-year-old foot pedal had never been cleaned and adjusted and power flow through was very poor to non-existent. I made Playlists for restoring foot pedals also. Clamshell style pedal: th-cam.com/play/PLsCOZgzzaiKItPLWcK24FBoMdHK8vTXNi.html Button-style foot pedal: th-cam.com/play/PLsCOZgzzaiKL6ePPxLpmnWSzTyxPKTb71.html So that is why I was asking why you wanted to replace the whole motor. 😉 Thanks again for keeping your 611G, and good luck.
@@andytubesewing1953 I'm replacing the motor because the sewing machine repair place said it's busted and can't be fixed. And there is no replacement parts for it. After I got it back from them the first time (I bought it used and it needed a tune up) it worked well for a few minutes, then got really slow. While trying to figure out what was wrong, it made a loud bang and blew the fuse in my apartment. So I took it back in, and after two weeks they told me it was a goner. He tried really hard to get me to give it up, he even had a guy who spoke english there (he didn't the other times I went in, I live in Finland currently and don't speak finnish very well as of yet). They ignored me saying no a few times. Before they did the hard pressure sell, he asked if I planned to try to replace the motor myself (and I said yes). So yeah, based on what they said I assumed the motor needs replacing. Though when I tried to take it out, the screw holding the overhang that keeps the motor in would not budge and I chipped the screw top a bit when trying to twist it, so I wonder if they even looked at the motor or not. If the motor might not need to be replaced that would be great, but I am not sure what I would need to do. If you want part lists for the 611 and 631, I found some PDF's on reddit (before the person who posted them removed all their comments recently). I can send them to you if you want. Sadly the 611 doesn't seem to list the part for the motor in full, but it's so long I might have missed it.
@@HiddenJumprope OK, got it. It's possible that when you told them you'd try to replace the motor they over-tightened the screw. I live in a metro area of 4+ million people, and there is one repair shop that is truly qualified to repair vintage Singer machines. in 2021 they told me a motor replacement like this, with a used motor, would cost $200. Yikes! I once broke the screw head off of that screw: th-cam.com/video/hp3ACCRqF80/w-d-xo.html Of course, we have no idea what they did to that machine. They could have even damaged the wire to the motor of the cord terminal, who knows? I'd try to at least get the motor out to take a look at it. Thanks for the offer, but I won't need the parts files. I'll never be working on a 4xx model made in Germany; never even seen one in person.
@@andytubesewing1953That would be impressive if they did tighten the screw after I said that, since it was in the case when this conversation happened and then I grabbed it and brought it home. I took the motor out and I think I found a replacement on ebay, though it is untested and a bit expensive. Hopefully it is just the motor that needs replacing.
You are correct. I couldn't even find documents for a Singer Model 317, but there are pictures online and it is similar to a model 327. I have a playlist of videos for the 327 here: th-cam.com/play/PLsCOZgzzaiKKHFzTFVJrwVQT6hMfXxFHt.html One of the videos is about taking out the motor; th-cam.com/video/sDcexZeS0f0/w-d-xo.html I believe you have an SN(K) OPEN Style of motor. You can see more details about it in these two videos; th-cam.com/video/rpTy_Bz3prA/w-d-xo.html and th-cam.com/video/6y1EN5S2sz4/w-d-xo.html Good luck, and thanks for watching my channel.
My 431G acts crazy I thought it was the foot pedal but when I released the top cover I noticed that there was thin smoke from the right side of the machine so I guess it is the engine that is broken. I'm afraid there may have been oil in the engine. Do not know if I can find out what's wrong.
If your machine has been sitting idle for a very long time, the oil in the bushing and in the bearings of the motor can dry up. Oil and grease on the machine can do that. When you first start running the motor and it gets warm/hot it can smoke for awhile. The shafts of the machine can be stuck in the bushings preventing the machine from operating. At the minimum, a good oiling should be done to get things moving. In my reply to your other comment, I gave a link to the instruction manual for your machine which will show where to oil it. You've watched my video for cleaning off oil from the motor, and some of Jebb's very recent videos for cleaning the motor. Cleaning the motor and even the whole machine is sometimes required to put the machine in working order. Here is a playlist I made a few years ago about cleaning the PA style of motor: th-cam.com/play/PLsCOZgzzaiKJSu0T9oeaheTZsrUe91kkZ.html Depending on the condition of your machine you may want to degrease it completely. I'll list some playlists for restoring similar machines to yours ( I don't have a 431) and you can browse thru them and the videos to get an idea of what it takes. Again I will mention that you can put fresh oil/grease on the machine and run it slowly to loosen the old gunky oil and get things moving, then keep adding fresh oil. You don't need to disassemble it and fully degrease it if you're not up to it and just want to get it working. Always wipe off as much of the old stuff as possible as the new lubricants force it out of the bushings and joints. All-in-all these playlists have about 100 videos pertaining to the parts on your machine. th-cam.com/play/PLsCOZgzzaiKLiDl9yFTP6mJgQmz5lj4NO.html th-cam.com/play/PLsCOZgzzaiKKyqvdDRwS-9MfLuwSNJTcg.html th-cam.com/play/PLsCOZgzzaiKIB4kvIHCfHYuyLMUp5A4UI.html There is also a single video about speeding up your style of a motor in 5 minutes with a diamond brush seating stone: th-cam.com/video/pzq4tv8qn94/w-d-xo.html That is an easy way to increase performance on an older motor when you are not doing a complete overhaul. Finally, here is a link where you can download a free copy of the class 401 service manual: sewingdude.files.wordpress.com/2012/09/singer-401-service-manual1.pdf Several viewers who have contacted me about model 401G and 431G have told me they found the manual helpful when doing repairs and adjustments on their German slant needle machines like the 431G as many of the parts are the same. Best of luck, Esther, and take care.
@@andytubesewing1953 Thank you very much for your detailed answer Andy! I did the test with the hand wheel that you asked me to and also emailed a short film what it looks like and what happens. I will try to understand how to fix the engine, if you think it may be the engine that is broken on my machine?
@@andytubesewing1953 I answered your email. It is good news. I watched some of your videos and decided to try to open the engine to clean it with my "electronic cleaner CRC". I did not dare to go into the engine, I just opened the lid and sprayed with a lot of cleaner. It was a lot of black sandy dirt that came out. Afterwards I dried the engine and put it in again and I think it works very well, now the machine spins really fast! So happy! Thank you a lot!!! : D
What about the gear threads, didn't they make different shafts how do you make sure you have the right worm gear ratio so you don't eat up the Textolite gear
So, do you mean if you were replacing a motor say in this 500A with a motor from a 401A, like that? Yes, it would be a different type shaft and possibly a different style of pinion gear on the 401A motor than the 500A motor. I would always try for a replacement motor that came from the same model number. If that was not possible, then at the least I would transfer the pinion gear from the existing motor on to the shaft of the new motor if at all possible, or do a very close comparison of the two gears to be sure it is the same. Some of the parts diagrams for some models invclude the motor parts and there parts numbers. Example: the parts list for the model 404 shows the pinon gear parts nuber to be 197782. The parts diagram for model 401A does noot show the motor at all. The 500A & 503A parts diagrams do show the motor but don't list any part numbers. I would think it's always beeteer to use the same moel of replacement motor when ever possible, as mentioned above. Did I understand your question corectly?
Yes, I bought a 404 motor off ebay, I sent the original from mom's 401A out for service and it was lost so I never got it back, thus I needed a new one, I was concerned about the gear ratio. I know Singer had three different ones for the PA style motors.
Sorry to hear it was lost. If your machine was a model 500A like in this video, then the 404 motor won't run the bobbin winder. Since your machine is a 401A machine a 404 motor works fine as I have swapped motors between all three models, 401A, 403A and 404 with no problems. If you know Singer used three different gear ratio's then you already know more than I do about that! Good Luck.
I was told the 640 I got for free not long ago didn't work. I plugged it in and everything sounded and looked great. But thought I'd take a look at the motor, since I just finished cleaning the motor on my 403. Well, I don't know what I did- it no longer sounds smooth. It sounds like it might not be meshed with the Textolight gear on the handwheel, but it's pushed in all the way and is locked into place. Is there a trick to how this motor goes in? (I've taken it out and put it back in many times now just in case it didn't seat, but it always sounds the same.) Thanks again. Always appreciate your feedback!
Have the machine on its side now and maybe it's the 2 gears that are closest to the motor that are making the noise and not the handwheel area... But I didn't touch anything there to have changed anything. Hard to tell where the noise is coming from, but doesn't sound right!
@@monstermac8124 I think that's why you were told it did not work. Your machine comes with a lot of plastic gears. The two most vulnerable ones are the hook drive gear right below the hook, and the gear on top of the vertical shaft that mates with a gear on the horizontal shaft. When that top gear goes out, the hook stops turning, uh oh. I don't work on T &S models, but here is a video for replacing a top gear on a 457 th-cam.com/video/M3bFtlV1Y6s/w-d-xo.html You can skim thru it and see the type of gear I'm talking about. Changing that gear alone usually costs $200+ if you can even find any shop to do it. Most people give the machine away. It's about 50 Y.O. now and the gears, especially that gear, get brittle and just break apart. The replace gear costs less than $10 and you can buy guides for how to replace it, like Terry's guide on this page store.tandtrepair.com/tosew600se.html (use coupon andy-h-yt for 20% off) I know of some videos on YT about changing the lower gears, but I don't remember seeing one for that top gear. I don't pay much attention to T & S Machines though, so maybe someone did one by now. Adventurous people have figured out about the 2-speed motor and pedal and sometimes use them on the older slant-o-matics to get more torque for sewing thick materials/leather.
It was a quiet purr when I first tried it. It didn't start making noise until I started messing around... It really sounds like it's coming from the motor now (using an old screwdriver trick I used to use on car engines.) It's also starting to smell hot. The plastic gears all look to be in good shape- assuming you can tell the health of them visually. I'll watch the visits you linked to. Thanks again!
@@monstermac8124 Sure. It always works until it breaks, as they say. So, back to the motor now, eh? Did you remove/replace wires on the motor? Did you do any cleaning on the motor gear? if you just hold the motor in your hand and turn the pinion gear how does the motor sound then? The handwheel should turn counter-clockwise when the motor is installed correctly and wired properly. There is a bearing at the top of the motor housing just below the pinion gear.
The motor is the same in models 401A, 403A and 404. That would be the best choice. The motor in models 500 & 503A is similar. The motor shaft is different; it seems a little linger and has threads on the end for the friction ring (rubber tire) of the 500 & 503A bobbin winder. The worm gear maybe different. If a 500 or 503A motor fits with out cutting of the end of the shaft, then I would chage out the worm gear with one from the original motor, unless I could be sure the worm gears were an EXACT match. See my full reply to this question you asked below 9 minutes ago for more information. Thanks for watching Andy Tube.
Hi Lindy. It is frustrating, right? Try using a hair drier from above an below to loosen the old varnished oil inside. You can get it hot; the motor is sturdy. Blow around the side of the motor below and directly down from above. You can use WD-40 sure but keep it away from the black part of the motor base where the carbons are. You can turn the machine up-side-down and spay using the red straw right where the motor goes into the tube. Short bursts of spray so it has time to sink in. When the motor comes out, wipe off the WD-40 right away. No oil on motor carbons. Good Luck, and thank you for watching Andy Tube.
Thank you Andy! I bought a refurbished PA9-8 for my mother's 600E and your video made this a 10 minute job. The old motor was stuck, so your trouble shooting made it easy. Now I just need to find someone to rebuild the original motor, since I would like to have the machine all original. I'm sentimental. My mother and I had beautiful experiences involving this machine. Again thank you!
I'm glad you found the video. I see it has 25K views now so lots of folks are interested. I'm happy you are saving your Mom's machine. Happy sewing, and look for my reply to your request.
Mr Andy, this video helped me get my machine running today! She came from Goodwill as “not running”. I removed the motor, cleaned her exterior and put her back in. I think the positive/negative plugins were not connected correctly as it originally would not move or even light up.
I’m going to watch more of your videos so that I can refurb my motor. Now I just need to get the feed dog lever moving (a work in patience) and she’ll be as good as new! Thank you so much sir!!
Sure, you are wlcome. If you want to share the model number of your machine I may have videos specific to working on it. Good luck.
@@andytubesewing1953 Hi and yes sir! It’s a 500A. I also watched your video on the feed dog lever/needle plate. Mine is SUPER stuck under the plastic screw/nut. I can’t get it to push back/in at all. I’m going to keep working on it as the right side is moving fine. Thanks so much for your response and I hope you’re doing well!❤️
@@jodiepotter6029 Oh! The famous Rocketeer model. Congratulations! What prevents the lever from being pushed back so you can turn the plastic nut is the pins that push up the needle plate are stuck with dried or very gooey oil. I turn the machine upside down and use a WD40 spray (or similar, even alcohol) with a little tube down into the pin and tube the pin sits in. If you can raise the needle plate a little you can put it in the top around the pins. This can soften the gunk and allow things to start moving. I have also used a hair dryer to heat the parts from underneath (not too hot on the plastic nut) which can soften the gunk. Here are a couple playlists of videos that can help: th-cam.com/play/PLsCOZgzzaiKJZaZn2zl3LsnV2d7UhrqvX.html th-cam.com/play/PLsCOZgzzaiKLiDl9yFTP6mJgQmz5lj4NO.html I like having the Service Manual for my machines. Singer made the manuals for their service techs and they are worthy documents. If you are interested in the manual you can download it FREE from the sewing dude: sewingdude.wordpress.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/09/singer-500-service-manual.pdf Happy for you have that machine, Jodie, and thanks for watching my channel.
@@andytubesewing1953 Thank you so much sir!! I appreciate the service manual link as well as the playlist links. I feel so empowered!!! I’m going to take my time and work on getting that left post loose. Take care of yourself and thank you again! ❤️
Just fixed my Singer Touch & Sew 645 thanks to your video! One brush was not connecting right and it was working at a snail's pace. Thank you!
Thanks for commenting, Deborah. Happy if the video helped and thanks for keeping your machine working. Full power is good, right? Take Care.
A good video!
I bought a 411G a few years ago, so far it is running not too bad, apart from a bad control pedal (a new old stock electronic one is arriving soon). It's good to see how easy it is to remove and replace the motor!
Thanks. I've never seen a 411G but have heard from owners how much they enjoy the machine. You may like this playlist of working on a 401A American-Made Slant-O-Matic: th-cam.com/play/PLsCOZgzzaiKLiDl9yFTP6mJgQmz5lj4NO.html I appreciate your comment and thank you for watching.
Thank You so much for the great video and presentation. I just purchased a Singer 503a. When I was testing to see if it sewed the motor starting smoking. When I tried to remove the motor it would not move. Now I now the proper sequence in removing the motor.
Thank you for letting me know! Glad it helped.
I’ve never seen the interior of a sewing machine so clean! Impressive.
Thanks! It's my specialty, haha. You can do this too!. I have a few videos about it. Here is just one of them: th-cam.com/video/SXn57XzNiRQ/w-d-xo.html
Be sure you watch a video about how to oil it right after cleaning before you wash one, OK?
I have wanted to purchase an all-metal machine. During my research, I found a referral to Andy Tube! I made sure you had videos about the Singer 500A Rockateer before I bought it on EBay. I am waiting for its delivery and in the meantime I have watched some of your videos and I love them! I have learned so much.
P.S. I have ordered a tube of the Tri-Flow clear synthetic grease you use.
@@athertonca Thanks very much, and thanks to whoever gave a referral to Andy Tube. How nice of them! So, I am excited for you and your new Rocketeer 500A. YAY, what fun. I have not done any videos of it in great detail, but my 56 video series on the 404, and the series on the 503A should help quite a bit. You can also go here and download a FREE Copy of the Original Singer Service Manual for your machine. 46 pages of instructions for removing, replacing and adjusting all the parts on it.
sewingdude.files.wordpress.com/2012/09/singer-500-service-manual.pdf
Once you get started it can help to know all the functions and settings on the machine, so you have a good idea of what the machine can do and how it works. Here is a link to a FREE copy of the 50 page (I know!) SInger Instruction Manual. Some light reading while you wait for your baby to arrive. Best of luck.
@@athertonca I'm sure you'll be happy with it, and not just for sewing machine gears but a great household grease too.
I just now lucked into a very clean 500A. It was well cared for, just hasn't been lubed in a long time. Runs smooth now. Thank you very much for your work!
Congratulations on your "new" Rocketeer! Thanks for the nice comment. You probably saw the maintenance video for model 503A, the sister to your machine?
th-cam.com/video/Sn2XD4EILFM/w-d-xo.html
I'm glad you found my channel. Take Care.
That was really clear. Think I'd feel comfortable replacing a motor now. Thank you for such a great instruction video.
Welcome to Any Tube Winifred. I'm glad you liked the video. Im sure you can change a motor now. One step at a time and I usually take some pictures during the removal so Im sure to arrange the wirin correctly when I put it back.
You may be interested in my Motor Restoration Series for the type of motor in the video. It show how to dismantle, clean, check/change the brushes and so forth. th-cam.com/play/PLsCOZgzzaiKJSu0T9oeaheTZsrUe91kkZ.html
Hope to see you again. Take Care.
Gracias por sus videos , realmente aprendo mucho de ellos. Thank you 🙏🏽
De nada. Gracias por mirar y aprecio tu agradable comentario.
Hi Andy, Is it possible to buy a good replacement motor for a 401a? I think it might need a new motor, it makes a lot of noise but doesn’t move, however the fabric will move under the presser foot if I turn the hand wheel. Thank you. I appreciate you, your, videos, and all your knowledge. Marci V
Hi, Marci, Thanks for watching my channel. Used motors can be found on eBay, Etsy, Facebook Marketplace, etc. It is best to buy a model-specific motor to be sure of compatibility.
That said, I've never encountered a "failed" motor. There are plenty of slow motors that need cleaning and sometimes carbon replacements. Here is a Playlist of videos for restoring your type of motor: th-cam.com/play/PLsCOZgzzaiKJSu0T9oeaheTZsrUe91kkZ.html
EVEN MORE COMMON however is a foot pedal in need of cleaning and adjusting. They are also 60+ years old and seldom get attention. Plenty of folks have replaced the motor only to find it was not the problem. Here is a Playlist for restoring a Button-Style Foot Controller, the most common type used on model 401A th-cam.com/play/PLsCOZgzzaiKL6ePPxLpmnWSzTyxPKTb71.html
A simple test to isolate the motor and pedal is to put the machine in bobbin winding mode and run the motor. That mode disengages all the moving parts except the handwheel. If the motor won't turn the handwheel you have narrowed it down to the motor or pedal and can proceed with some cleaning and adjusting for a meager cost other than your time. Best of luck and thanks for keeping the machine in service.
Fantastic! Thank you very much for this tutorial.
Hi Andy. First of all thank you so much for your videos.. I am learning so much from them. My question is about 431g Singer motor. It is stuck in the machine and cannot be taken out. I have tapped, used penetrating oil and have no results.
Yes, sometimes the motors are very stuck into the support tube. Usually, it is because old oil/grease has worked into the tube and on the outside of the motor casing. It's like they are glued or varnished together now. It is hard to get WD-40 or similar into the space. Remove the handwheel if you know how. You can run the motor for a couple minutes then stop. That heats it up and when you stop it gets about 20 degrees hotter. You are trying to soften the oil to get the motor to move a little. You can also blow hot air, from the bottom, up around the motor to warm things up also. Run the motor and blow air at the same time if possible.
I have taken the motor brush covers off while blowing air. See in the beginning of this video for removal if you do not know how: th-cam.com/video/juPaQW3mZ7I/w-d-xo.html Because there is a fan in the motor, blowing hot air with a hairdryer also gets pulled inside the upper part of the motor housing and that is what is stuck in the tube. Not a good idea to hammer down on the top of the motor as it may bend the motor shaft if you hit very hard. So running the motor (it's ok to do that with the brush covers off, the small sparks will not hurt unless you have explosive fumes in the room 👀) while using a hairdryer at the same time is the most effective heating. When you stop the motor, stop the hairdryer and let things sit for a while. I have at times, waiting for the motor to cool down a little, stood the machine in normal position and keeping the bobbin end down on the table/bench, lifted the motor end of the machine about 3 to 5 inches, and dropped it onto the table/bench. That has "jarred" the motor lose a few times and will not hurt the motor/shaft.
Have used a number of your great videos. Now looking & not finding anywhere how to remove the motor from a Singer #778 slant needle Touch & Sew. Is this covered ANYWHERE on the internet?
Touch & Swear. model 778 with the free arm, right? I think the motor is wired to the switch and wire terminal with a small bracket holding in into the tube. I don't know much about them in general, but I know a guy who worked at Singer when they all came out for sale. He has a store and knows more about the T&S models than anyone I know. store.tandtrepair.com/
He has some manuals and so forth about them. I see a $6 motor repair manual but don't know if it shows how to remove it from the machine. store.tandtrepair.com/tosew700se.html
You can ask about the motor or if he has a repair guide that could help. If you end up buying something form his site he will give you 20% off with my coupon code of andy-h-yt. Good Luck!
Thanks AndyTube!!!!🥰
I'm glad you found it. Nice of you to comment. Good Luck.
Thank you Andy
You're welcome and I appreciate that you took time to comment. Thank you!
Hi Andy, great videos and channel! Question regarding these motors. I have 2 401's one is kind of ratty and the other is really clean. I serviced both motors but the one on the nice machine is really noisy (high pitch) and I think I may try to change the upper bearing on it. But I tried swapping motors and it seems like they didn't work well in the different machine. On one of the machines, I could not even turn the balance wheel with the motor installed, and on the other machine it did not feel as smooth with a little bit of minor binding. It's as if the respective motor's worm drives/balance wheel fiber gears "wore into each other", but that does not seem right. Seems like only the softer fiber wheel would wear, but on inspection I can't see anything obvious. Any advice? Thanks!
I don't have the machines here but I can suggest things I would look at/for. First, when testing a motor swap always have the machine in bobbin winding mode with the clutch disengaged by having the knob turned to the left. You want the motor to be turning the handwheel only. Always turn the handwheel toward you and not away which stresses the motor carbons. Be sure both motors have the same motor type on the black bottom cover, like PA-8 or similar. The machines are 60+ years old now and people may have swapped out a few parts already. Different motor types can have different pinion gear, longer or shorter motor shafts, etc. Be sure the motor is fully inserted into the tube as far as possible for the best mesh between the pinion and handwheel gears. Yes, the top motor bearing can wear out and start screeching or "jetting" sounds. Some folks put 1 or 2 (only) drops of 30W oil on the bearing to see if it quiets back down a little as proof it is the bearing and not other metal-on-metal sounds. You already have Matt's bearing video in your Favorites File on YT and that may help you change the bearing. th-cam.com/video/R4R377aTOho/w-d-xo.html
Do not cheap out on the bearing as it is a lot of labor to replace.
@@andytubesewing1953 Thanks for getting back! Looks like good advice. I'll have to remove the motors again and really compare them side by side. I will attempt the 30w oil trick, I've seen that in a few places. BTW, I've really enjoyed your videos, I've done quite a few maintenance procedures watching your videos, they are very detailed! ATB.
@@dag4321 Best of luck to you
@@andytubesewing1953 Hi Andy. Some info that might help others: I was able to change out the bearing successfuly, and while not a super easy procedure it was much easier than I expected. I pretty much followed Matt's procedure in the video above, except I used a woodworking vice instead of the pipe clamp. To get around Matt's problem when driving the shaft out, I simply used a hole saw to drill out a hole in a block of wood to allow the commutator to fit inside, with the block supporting the aluminum base of the motor housing. The vise worked really good, with excellent control. Matt bought some spacers for the bearing and shaft installation, I was able to find two sockets from a ratchet set that worked perfect.
Hello Andy, really enjoy your videos. I just became a proud owner of a Singer model 431G convertible that came from the UK. Over in that part of the world they use 220v motors (which my machine came with.) When I got it, I switched it over with a Singer 404 110v motor and also replaced the wiring harness. My knowledge of electronics is very low; I just know basic electricity. My question is: I have heard of adopting a transducer to use up or down for 220v to 110v. Is there a gain or loss of power or torch by using such a system (to use the 220v motor) or should I stay with the 110v motor that is now on the machine?
If that 404 motor is working well in your 431G I would keep using it. I've wondered about that, like if the 404 pinion gear would mesh properly with the handwheel gear. I guess it does and thanks for sharing that with us. I have seen devices advertised to convert 220V to 110V, step up step down converter. I don't get how an input of 110V can be made to 220V output. www.amazon.com/Pyle-voltage-converter-Transformer-Charging/dp/B00EEJZRO2/ref=sr_1_3?dchild=1&keywords=Step+Up+and+Down+Converter&qid=1617575451&sr=8-3 They come rated by output in Watts. Watts = Amps X Volts. For example, your 404 motor is rated at 0.7Amp times 110 volts = 77 watts of power, very low. It was recommended to me to buy a converter rated for double the need to handle surges when starting a motor, so a converter that could handle 150 watts would work for your 404 motor if you were using it in the EU. I do not know what the amp rating is on your 220V. My feeling is using the 404 motor is a perfect solution if it works properly in the 431G machine. Why bother with another piece of electronic equipment if not needed. In the Philippines, I use converters to run our Whirlpool refrigerator and sharp microwave oven which were made here in the USA. That converted the local 220-240V to 110-120 for the applianced. It also had a built-in surge protector and it worked very well and the appliances work normally and have not suffered any damage.
How do you engage the stitch width lever, mine has popped out
model number please
wow! That has got to be the cleanest old sewing machine I've ever seen. Is that a new motor & how did you get the inside of that machine so clean or was it just well maintained? Why is there no grease at all on the gears, are they new? Beautiful clean machine!
Hey! Thank you very much. That is the original motor, just rebuilt. See this slide show @ 1:49 for better pictures. th-cam.com/video/RZKDuVM86Jw/w-d-xo.html
I watched some of the playlist videos on your channel, and they show some good methods of cleaning. 15 years ago when I did my first restore of a Singer 404, I used hundreds of Q-tips, dozens of pipe cleaners, a quart of 92% Alcohol and some WD-40. Hours of work. Too many hours. I developed my own cleaning compound and just use it. You can use many of the cleaners in the videos you saved. For me it is easier to just partially breakdown the machine, removing the smaller parts and and much of the electrical system as possible, or covering the motor with Ziploc bags. I never remove any gears as they are factory matched and tuned. I set the machine on an empty 5 gallon paint bucket and spray with my cleaner, wait 2 minutes and spray it off with a garden hose. Next is blow dry with a hair dryer or garden leaf blower. I clean the small parts the same way at my utility sink. Reassemble, oil & grease, reset everything, like timing, stitch length, bar heights, etc. then 3 coats of carnauba wax on the outside surfaces. Finally test sew all the stitches and any fine tuning needed.
Actually, there is PLENTY of grease on the gears in this video. Most videos I see show to apply WAY TOO MUCH grease. I use a small water color paint brush, cut down the bristles to about 1/4 inch, and apply a LIGHT coat. That is all you need. I only use Tri-flow oil & grease. Amazon or Ebay, but I often find a better price at a local bicycle shop. www.triflowlubricants.com/
You can get a free copy of any Singer Instruction Manual here: www.singerco.com/support/instruction-manuals
I'm familiar with many Singer machines now, but I still buy a copy of some Service & Repair manuals from Alex. He has a huge variety and the best prices I have found. They show how to remove & replace parts and make most adjustments to factory specs. manualsoncd.com/product-category/singer-service-manuals/
Some machines I give to charities and some I sell on Craigslist to pay my costs. I'm sure you can do as good a job of cleaning as I do. I don't have any special talents other than following the directions in the manual. Best wishes.
Where can I get a motor for a 329K machine. I want to repair a favorite machine for an elderly friend who does not want to part this Singer.
Hi Barbara,
The same motor may fit other Singer models too. You may be able to buy new brushes for your motor, or a new motor, from Sue at sew-classic. shop.sew-classic.com/Motors-and-Motor-Parts_c21.htm
Also, Connie at thrifty farm girl will try to find one for you. thriftyfarmgirl.com/
Duane in South Dakota has helped me before with hard to find parts. Contact him at his eBay store and tell him what you are looking for. stores.ebay.com/duanesec45bottlesmore/
Good Luck.
My wife replaced the motor without any problems.
Very nice, and congratulations!
Just came in posession of one of these and took it to a repair place to have it looked over, and was told the motor had seized. He pulled that, flushed it and reoiled it, and got it working again. He told me that a gear is worn but not which or where (they're very busy rn tho with the whole Covid thing) and I'm wondering if it's worth going back through and trying to find it? I was told it just has a slight whur noise if anything and it should be fine, and I probably won't have to worry about it, but I plan to get another almost 60 years out of it if I can
"reoiled it" No kidding? I wish I could see that. There is a metal pinion gear outside the motor at the end of the motor shaft. That pinion gear meshes with a type of plastic gear on the handwheel. If a gear was worn, then maybe the handwheel gear, but I've only seen a picture of a broken one once. The motor uses no oil. The pinion gear & handwheel gear should be greased. I wonder what he "flushed" the motor with? I would have enjoyed seeing that also. Where the motor shaft comes out the top of the aluminum housing, and below the pinion gear, is a motor shaft bearing. If he "Flushed" that with something that removes grease he may have washed out the lubricant inside that bearing. You know, little steel ball bearings in a circle around the inside of the bearing. If those are dry now then they will be metal-on-metal and whine is putting it mildly. He may have put some oil on the top of that bearing trying to quiet it down a little bit, IDK. If he but oil on the pinion gear or handwheel gear that is not good and it should be cleaned off completely and replaced with grease like TriFlow Clear Synthetic Grease is what most of us would use. So, I have a 6 part video series about servicing a PA style motor if you want to peek at some of them to understand the motor, gear, etc. the playlist is here: th-cam.com/play/PLsCOZgzzaiKJSu0T9oeaheTZsrUe91kkZ.html
I'd be curious to know the going rate for a motor "flushing & reoiling" so I'd know how much I'm missing out on these days. Oh, maybe the worn gear is not on the motor and I misunderstood? Anyway, I hope that gives you a path and good luck.
@@andytubesewing1953 I haven't plugged it into try it yet (though I've seen what it's sewn since being serviced.) I was kinda thinking that myself, it seemed odd a motor like this would take oil. I'm wondering if he was just mixed up and just meant he cleaned off that motor shaft and regreased the whole assembly? It certainly smells like fresh grease, the whole machine. The motor was certainly seized, I'll believe him on that one. Something was seized. I may be a younger chick but I've been around enough mechanical assemblies to know there needs to be grease or oil on points of contact between metal. I was charged $80 to go through it and clean/regrease it, reassemble the motor, and do minor work on the cord to the pedal. I only have $110 in this machine total, and was not quoted up front for the work sadly. They're all backed up with this rn, everyone's machines are down, I'd like to chalk it up to that if it was miscommunication...
@@faultyillustration3197 I've never had a motor seize. It's usually the bearings for the main arm shafts that are stuck in dried up oil. What they did would cost $75 here so no worries at the price. Besides that motor series, there are two playlists for model 301 on my main playlist page: th-cam.com/channels/USPDsHaFtRoz1VA2U1xJ4w.htmlfeatured?view_as=public
One is for "Coco" and the other is a technical series. Also a playlist for rehabbing the foot controller. Everything about model 301 for you to do-it-yourself. A free instruction manual can still be downloaded for free directly from Singer at this link:
www.singer.com/search/support?title=301 It's been my observation that "younger chics" make some of the best sewing machine mechanics because they have patient attitudes and can follow directions well. That machine is one of the best Singer ever made, by far and with normal care and maintenance you could use it to teach your grandkids to sew someday (should you care too 😉)
@@andytubesewing1953 Honestly? This 500A is the first sewing machine I've ever owned or will use so I've probably just got cold feet on it. I'm hoping what I was told was truly a mixup, and if something is wrong I'll just go for inspecting it myself (seeing you take these things apart sure helps me feel more confident in em haha!) I certainly trust myself to be able to hear metal grinding if worst came to worst. Thank you so much for the resources and responding so timely! If I may just pick your brain once more, how often should these things be greased? And just at the top there where you grease it in this video? I have the original manual with this but you've worked on em so
@@faultyillustration3197 Wait! A 500? Why did I think we were talking a 301? No worries. Here are the videos for model 401A. th-cam.com/play/PLsCOZgzzaiKLiDl9yFTP6mJgQmz5lj4NO.html You're 500 is based on the 401A and has the same mechanics. Only the body shape and bobbin winder are different. The 401A videos will work for your 500. Here are the videos for model 503A: th-cam.com/play/PLsCOZgzzaiKJZaZn2zl3LsnV2d7UhrqvX.html It is the less fancy sister to your 500A and the videos will help you, including this tutorial all about general servicing of it, including oil & grease.
th-cam.com/video/Sn2XD4EILFM/w-d-xo.html
Finally, here are videos for model 403A, the sister to the 401A, and first version of the 503A. th-cam.com/play/PLsCOZgzzaiKKyqvdDRwS-9MfLuwSNJTcg.html If I missed something in the other two playlists it will be covered in here.
Please do get the free instruction manual for model 500: www.singer.com/search/support?title=500
50 pages of info all about your machine and how to use it. Also has oiling & greasing instructions. Since the machine will be in your family the next 80 to 100 years you may as well know all about it, right? Oh, wait, you said you have the manual, so skip that. How often to grease? At least once or maybe a couple times a year for the grease unless you just sew a ton with it. Oiling is different and should happen more often. My wife sews on a 301 3 or 4 times per week and oils it every couple months or so. Sometimes she oils the bobbin case race at the beginning of each new project. one drop of oil. If you use the machine a lot you will know by sound when it needs lubrication. Always wipe off as much of the old oil and grease as you can. The videos will mention the brands that are good. The 500A and 503A are known as Rocketeers because of their body style ( pretty sexy and futuristic for a sewing machine in the 1950s) and in today's dollars it would cost about $2875 new. Lucky you to have one!
Hey Andy, thanks for the detailed instruction! I’m wondering, would you be familiar with converting an electrical machine to manual treadle? I have a Singer model 630
I've never even touched a treadle machine. I will say this though; the model 630 has an internal motor that directly contacts the handwheel gear to make the arm shaft and all parts of the machine move. You can certainly remove the motor, but what about the handwheel? It is made with a gear and not for use with a motor belt (or treadle belt). To use the 630 as a treadle you'd need to also remove the handwheel and replace it with a wheel that can accept a treadle belt. I have no idea of a handwheel like that for a 630. It would certainly take some effort to research handwheels that accept the treadle belts, then measure to see if they have the correct machine diameter of a hole to fit onto the arm shaft bushing of the 630 and be able to attach somehow. Then fit it all into a treadle table or cabinet. Whew!
Wow. Thank you again for such an in depth explanation and I appreciate so much your explaining all that when the end result doesn’t pertain to your area of expertise. Much much much appreciated. Be well 🌞
@@PSOLDE Ok, sure, but thanks for the question as it was stimulating to try to think of a way to make it work. Take care.
Sure! Glad to have provided that for You! Hehe. Thanks for taking the time to think it through :) take care as well
@@PSOLDE 😀✨
super tutorial
I'm glad if it helps you and thanks for taking the time to comment.
What would cause the motor to start smoking? The brushes looked OK on the motor.
Debbie, I just returned from overseas where I did not have internet access. Two times that I had a smoking motor I found oil (like Wesson cooking oil) had gotten inside on the brushes of one motor,, and faulty wiring causing voltage spikes and arcing was melting the wires of the other. Was it actually the motor inside that was smoking, or maybe the wiring at the bottom connection? Also, at the top of the motor shaft there are bearings pressed into a circular casing. If they were dried out and the shaft started turning, then maybe the dried grease remnants would smoke. Have you been able to sew on your machine yet? We would like your opinion of this model. Best Wishes.
Hi Mr Andy , My singer 401G sewing machine rotates slowly & when the foot rest is pressed smoke comes out from the machine motor. What is the remedy for this? I live in Colombo,Srilanka. Is it possible to buy a foot Press pedal for this singer 401 G model machine .Expect your reply soon.
It is rare to have smoke from the motor. That is usually caused by oil getting inside the motor. You can dismantle and clean the motor by following the videos in this Playlist: th-cam.com/play/PLsCOZgzzaiKJSu0T9oeaheTZsrUe91kkZ.html
I do not know what is available in Srilanka but in the USA you can buy used foot pedals, new carbon stack foot pedals, and new electronic foot pedals. You can also clean and rehab the existing foot pedals by following this Playlist: th-cam.com/play/PLsCOZgzzaiKL6ePPxLpmnWSzTyxPKTb71.html
If you'd like to know more about working on your 401G (401A in the USA) you can download a FREE copy of the 401A SERVICE MANUAL from this link: sewingdude.files.wordpress.com/2012/09/singer-401-service-manual1.pdf
This is the end of your expected reply. Good Luck.
@@andytubesewing1953 Thank you so much Mr Andy. 💖
@@packiyaluxumivivekanandara4606 oba sādarayen piḷiganimu saha obaṭa vāsanāva
Hi, I just got back my singer 611g from a sewing machine repair place and they said they couldn't replace the motor (and tried really hard to get me to give it to them for a 20-40€ credit for another machine). I refused as I know the motor can be replaced. But I'm struggling finding replacements, I see ones for other singer machines in the 600 or 700 range that look the same but I don't know if they're interchangeable. Do you know what I should look for? I've tried researching this but there isn't a lot of info. Best I got was the parts list for the 631 that says the part number for the motor is 93115 but that didn't lead to anything.
First off, thank you for not giving away your machine to them. The "g" in your 611g model signifies it was made in Germany. Singer USA never kept any documentation for them in the US. It is almost impossible to find Service Manuals and Parts lists for the G models. I've just never had much luck.
What has worked for some of my viewers is to take detailed measurements & pictures of the bad part (if they have it) and contact sellers to see if they will take the time to check a part they may be selling. Many of the PA-style Motors (301, 401, 403, 404, 500, 503, 6xx) have the motor type etched into the bakelite/0plastic motor housing on the very bottom.
If you do try the measurement route for the motor watch for the size of the base, the height of the motor shaft, what, if anything, is attached at the very top of the shaft, and the pinion gear measurements at the top of the motor housing on the shaft.
If I may ask, why are you replacing the motor anyway?❓ In all the machines I have worked on I only had one bad motor. The windings were totally destroyed after they had plugged a 110V motor into a 240V electrical outlet by mistake.
I've rehabbed many Slant Needle Motors with great success. Usually, they only need to have the commutator cleaned of all the carbon deposits. th-cam.com/video/pzq4tv8qn94/w-d-xo.html
I have a playlist of videos for a completed rehab of a slant motor: th-cam.com/play/PLsCOZgzzaiKJSu0T9oeaheTZsrUe91kkZ.html
Often I had complaints of a very slow motor or barely running motor but usually found the cause was the foot controller.
The 60+-year-old foot pedal had never been cleaned and adjusted and power flow through was very poor to non-existent.
I made Playlists for restoring foot pedals also.
Clamshell style pedal: th-cam.com/play/PLsCOZgzzaiKItPLWcK24FBoMdHK8vTXNi.html
Button-style foot pedal: th-cam.com/play/PLsCOZgzzaiKL6ePPxLpmnWSzTyxPKTb71.html
So that is why I was asking why you wanted to replace the whole motor. 😉
Thanks again for keeping your 611G, and good luck.
@@andytubesewing1953 I'm replacing the motor because the sewing machine repair place said it's busted and can't be fixed. And there is no replacement parts for it. After I got it back from them the first time (I bought it used and it needed a tune up) it worked well for a few minutes, then got really slow. While trying to figure out what was wrong, it made a loud bang and blew the fuse in my apartment. So I took it back in, and after two weeks they told me it was a goner. He tried really hard to get me to give it up, he even had a guy who spoke english there (he didn't the other times I went in, I live in Finland currently and don't speak finnish very well as of yet). They ignored me saying no a few times. Before they did the hard pressure sell, he asked if I planned to try to replace the motor myself (and I said yes). So yeah, based on what they said I assumed the motor needs replacing. Though when I tried to take it out, the screw holding the overhang that keeps the motor in would not budge and I chipped the screw top a bit when trying to twist it, so I wonder if they even looked at the motor or not. If the motor might not need to be replaced that would be great, but I am not sure what I would need to do.
If you want part lists for the 611 and 631, I found some PDF's on reddit (before the person who posted them removed all their comments recently). I can send them to you if you want. Sadly the 611 doesn't seem to list the part for the motor in full, but it's so long I might have missed it.
@@HiddenJumprope OK, got it. It's possible that when you told them you'd try to replace the motor they over-tightened the screw. I live in a metro area of 4+ million people, and there is one repair shop that is truly qualified to repair vintage Singer machines. in 2021 they told me a motor replacement like this, with a used motor, would cost $200. Yikes! I once broke the screw head off of that screw: th-cam.com/video/hp3ACCRqF80/w-d-xo.html Of course, we have no idea what they did to that machine. They could have even damaged the wire to the motor of the cord terminal, who knows? I'd try to at least get the motor out to take a look at it. Thanks for the offer, but I won't need the parts files. I'll never be working on a 4xx model made in Germany; never even seen one in person.
@@andytubesewing1953That would be impressive if they did tighten the screw after I said that, since it was in the case when this conversation happened and then I grabbed it and brought it home. I took the motor out and I think I found a replacement on ebay, though it is untested and a bit expensive. Hopefully it is just the motor that needs replacing.
@@andytubesewing1953Should I consider getting a new foot peddle as well? It has the original one.
I have a 317 and the motor in it is nothing like this and I can't figure out how to get to it.
You are correct. I couldn't even find documents for a Singer Model 317, but there are pictures online and it is similar to a model 327. I have a playlist of videos for the 327 here: th-cam.com/play/PLsCOZgzzaiKKHFzTFVJrwVQT6hMfXxFHt.html
One of the videos is about taking out the motor; th-cam.com/video/sDcexZeS0f0/w-d-xo.html I believe you have an SN(K) OPEN Style of motor. You can see more details about it in these two videos; th-cam.com/video/rpTy_Bz3prA/w-d-xo.html and th-cam.com/video/6y1EN5S2sz4/w-d-xo.html Good luck, and thanks for watching my channel.
My 431G acts crazy I thought it was the foot pedal but when I released the top cover I noticed that there was thin smoke from the right side of the machine so I guess it is the engine that is broken. I'm afraid there may have been oil in the engine. Do not know if I can find out what's wrong.
If your machine has been sitting idle for a very long time, the oil in the bushing and in the bearings of the motor can dry up. Oil and grease on the machine can do that. When you first start running the motor and it gets warm/hot it can smoke for awhile. The shafts of the machine can be stuck in the bushings preventing the machine from operating. At the minimum, a good oiling should be done to get things moving. In my reply to your other comment, I gave a link to the instruction manual for your machine which will show where to oil it. You've watched my video for cleaning off oil from the motor, and some of Jebb's very recent videos for cleaning the motor. Cleaning the motor and even the whole machine is sometimes required to put the machine in working order. Here is a playlist I made a few years ago about cleaning the PA style of motor: th-cam.com/play/PLsCOZgzzaiKJSu0T9oeaheTZsrUe91kkZ.html
Depending on the condition of your machine you may want to degrease it completely. I'll list some playlists for restoring similar machines to yours ( I don't have a 431) and you can browse thru them and the videos to get an idea of what it takes. Again I will mention that you can put fresh oil/grease on the machine and run it slowly to loosen the old gunky oil and get things moving, then keep adding fresh oil. You don't need to disassemble it and fully degrease it if you're not up to it and just want to get it working. Always wipe off as much of the old stuff as possible as the new lubricants force it out of the bushings and joints. All-in-all these playlists have about 100 videos pertaining to the parts on your machine. th-cam.com/play/PLsCOZgzzaiKLiDl9yFTP6mJgQmz5lj4NO.html th-cam.com/play/PLsCOZgzzaiKKyqvdDRwS-9MfLuwSNJTcg.html th-cam.com/play/PLsCOZgzzaiKIB4kvIHCfHYuyLMUp5A4UI.html
There is also a single video about speeding up your style of a motor in 5 minutes with a diamond brush seating stone: th-cam.com/video/pzq4tv8qn94/w-d-xo.html That is an easy way to increase performance on an older motor when you are not doing a complete overhaul. Finally, here is a link where you can download a free copy of the class 401 service manual: sewingdude.files.wordpress.com/2012/09/singer-401-service-manual1.pdf Several viewers who have contacted me about model 401G and 431G have told me they found the manual helpful when doing repairs and adjustments on their German slant needle machines like the 431G as many of the parts are the same. Best of luck, Esther, and take care.
@@andytubesewing1953 Thank you very much for your detailed answer Andy! I did the test with the hand wheel that you asked me to and also emailed a short film what it looks like and what happens. I will try to understand how to fix the engine, if you think it may be the engine that is broken on my machine?
@@esther8897 I replied to your email.
@@andytubesewing1953 I answered your email. It is good news. I watched some of your videos and decided to try to open the engine to clean it with my "electronic cleaner CRC". I did not dare to go into the engine, I just opened the lid and sprayed with a lot of cleaner. It was a lot of black sandy dirt that came out. Afterwards I dried the engine and put it in again and I think it works very well, now the machine spins really fast! So happy! Thank you a lot!!! : D
@@esther8897 Thanks for sharing the good news with us. You persisted and found a solution 🏆✨👍
What about the gear threads, didn't they make different shafts how do you make sure you have the right worm gear ratio so you don't eat up the Textolite gear
So, do you mean if you were replacing a motor say in this 500A with a motor from a 401A, like that?
Yes, it would be a different type shaft and possibly a different style of pinion gear on the 401A motor than the 500A motor. I would always try for a replacement motor that came from the same model number.
If that was not possible, then at the least I would transfer the pinion gear from the existing motor on to the shaft of the new motor if at all possible, or do a very close comparison of the two gears to be sure it is the same.
Some of the parts diagrams for some models invclude the motor parts and there parts numbers. Example: the parts list for the model 404 shows the pinon gear parts nuber to be 197782. The parts diagram for model 401A does noot show the motor at all. The 500A & 503A parts diagrams do show the motor but don't list any part numbers. I would think it's always beeteer to use the same moel of replacement motor when ever possible, as mentioned above. Did I understand your question corectly?
Yes, I bought a 404 motor off ebay, I sent the original from mom's 401A out for service and it was lost so I never got it back, thus I needed a new one, I was concerned about the gear ratio. I know Singer had three different ones for the PA style motors.
Sorry to hear it was lost. If your machine was a model 500A like in this video, then the 404 motor won't run the bobbin winder. Since your machine is a 401A machine a 404 motor works fine as I have swapped motors between all three models, 401A, 403A and 404 with no problems. If you know Singer used three different gear ratio's then you already know more than I do about that! Good Luck.
I was told the 640 I got for free not long ago didn't work. I plugged it in and everything sounded and looked great. But thought I'd take a look at the motor, since I just finished cleaning the motor on my 403. Well, I don't know what I did- it no longer sounds smooth. It sounds like it might not be meshed with the Textolight gear on the handwheel, but it's pushed in all the way and is locked into place. Is there a trick to how this motor goes in? (I've taken it out and put it back in many times now just in case it didn't seat, but it always sounds the same.) Thanks again. Always appreciate your feedback!
Have the machine on its side now and maybe it's the 2 gears that are closest to the motor that are making the noise and not the handwheel area... But I didn't touch anything there to have changed anything. Hard to tell where the noise is coming from, but doesn't sound right!
@@monstermac8124 I think that's why you were told it did not work. Your machine comes with a lot of plastic gears. The two most vulnerable ones are the hook drive gear right below the hook, and the gear on top of the vertical shaft that mates with a gear on the horizontal shaft. When that top gear goes out, the hook stops turning, uh oh. I don't work on T &S models, but here is a video for replacing a top gear on a 457 th-cam.com/video/M3bFtlV1Y6s/w-d-xo.html You can skim thru it and see the type of gear I'm talking about. Changing that gear alone usually costs $200+ if you can even find any shop to do it. Most people give the machine away. It's about 50 Y.O. now and the gears, especially that gear, get brittle and just break apart. The replace gear costs less than $10 and you can buy guides for how to replace it, like Terry's guide on this page store.tandtrepair.com/tosew600se.html
(use coupon andy-h-yt for 20% off) I know of some videos on YT about changing the lower gears, but I don't remember seeing one for that top gear. I don't pay much attention to T & S Machines though, so maybe someone did one by now.
Adventurous people have figured out about the 2-speed motor and pedal and sometimes use them on the older slant-o-matics to get more torque for sewing thick materials/leather.
I see by your 2nd comment you already figured out the cause of that weird noise.
It was a quiet purr when I first tried it. It didn't start making noise until I started messing around... It really sounds like it's coming from the motor now (using an old screwdriver trick I used to use on car engines.) It's also starting to smell hot.
The plastic gears all look to be in good shape- assuming you can tell the health of them visually.
I'll watch the visits you linked to.
Thanks again!
@@monstermac8124 Sure. It always works until it breaks, as they say. So, back to the motor now, eh? Did you remove/replace wires on the motor? Did you do any cleaning on the motor gear? if you just hold the motor in your hand and turn the pinion gear how does the motor sound then? The handwheel should turn counter-clockwise when the motor is installed correctly and wired properly. There is a bearing at the top of the motor housing just below the pinion gear.
Can I change singer 301 motor and use in asinger 404 machine, will it work, Thanks Jerry G
Please see my reply to your comment about this on another video:
th-cam.com/video/wZFFYVCjH8A/w-d-xo.html
can i replace a 301-503-401-500 motors replace it ia singer 404 machine will it wotk?
The motor is the same in models 401A, 403A and 404. That would be the best choice. The motor in models 500 & 503A is similar. The motor shaft is different; it seems a little linger and has threads on the end for the friction ring (rubber tire) of the 500 & 503A bobbin winder. The worm gear maybe different. If a 500 or 503A motor fits with out cutting of the end of the shaft, then I would chage out the worm gear with one from the original motor, unless I could be sure the worm gears were an EXACT match. See my full reply to this question you asked below 9 minutes ago for more information. Thanks for watching Andy Tube.
My motor is in there so tight, I cannot move it. Is there any other way that I can loosen it. Like using Wd40?
Hi Lindy. It is frustrating, right? Try using a hair drier from above an below to loosen the old varnished oil inside. You can get it hot; the motor is sturdy. Blow around the side of the motor below and directly down from above. You can use WD-40 sure but keep it away from the black part of the motor base where the carbons are. You can turn the machine up-side-down and spay using the red straw right where the motor goes into the tube. Short bursts of spray so it has time to sink in. When the motor comes out, wipe off the WD-40 right away. No oil on motor carbons. Good Luck, and thank you for watching Andy Tube.