Thank you for the feedback! I am currently creating new content and it will not contain background music. If there are any topics you would like to see us cover shoot me an email at Raymond@saharacoins.net
and the ENTIRE TIME its like PULSING this insanely high pitched brutal alarm sounding B.S. ... I couldn't take it , had to shut the video off half way.
well there is a simple way to fix that how about you just actually listen to what he is saying as per the reason of visiting the video instead of wondering of topic and nit picking at some stupid little detail
I personally think new collectors should start in Jefferson nickels or rosevelt dimes, reason being they are all attainable at reasonable costs and can be completed while also giving the collector practice on searching for quality and learning grading and errors, and handling. I think the worst thing is for someone to start in like Morgan dollars or wheat pennies where the key dates are prohibitive to completion. Plenty of collectors start in these areas and wind up overpaying for coins because they don't know what to look for besides "shiny" or they buy the cheaper ones and when they get to the tougher more expensive coins they put off buying them and lose interest and never complete the set and stop collection. I like coins that can be pulled from circulation for beginners for that sense of completion and they can always upgrade their examples which keeps the hobby as a hobby plus every year there new ones to add to the collection. Morgan dollars are kind of advanced in my opinion for beginners, there's a lot to learn and then when you get the basic set done then there's VAMs next for the die varieties. It gets expensive. While they are collecting the cheaper coins from circulation and learning and enjoying they can also be saving up for the key date coins for a tougher set. If you can manage to get the keys and semi keys early the rest comes easy. From what I've noticed people run through "the rest" then when they hit the expensive tough ones, they give up on collecting altogether. Just my 2 cents on it. Also gloves are a good thing, not only to protect the nice coins, but to protect your hands from filthy coins. You be surprised how dirty coins are after searching tools of coins to fill collection books, DON'T RUB YOUR EYE AFTER GOING THROUGH THOUSANDS OF PENNIES! HAHA HAHA I made that mistake once. Also you are looking at the guy who left a thumb print on a brand new shiny silver eagle when I was new to the hobby. I never got it off the damn coin.
@@Notkeiran powder free latex gloves are fine, probably better than lint free cotton gloves because there is still a minute bit of lint. Lint or powder will kill your coins. You don't really need glove if roll searching coins though the coins are generally circulated and dirty to begin with but with mint state and proof coins in perfect condition the slightest contaminant like a piece of lint or particle of powder can hurt the coins perfectness. Biggest mistake I hear a lot of new collectors make is breaking out the coins from the mints proof set holders to then put them in airtight capsules to try to stop toning from happening due to the mint packaging materials. Beginners end up dropping or touching or coughing or getting dust on the coins surface and it winds up worse than if they just left it alone to do its thing naturally. Toning is a natural occurrence with metals over time. It can be slowed but not completely stopped. I can't tell you how many proof coins I've heard ruined by new collectors trying to protect them better. We all make our mistakes when learning.
Great information here.. You are correct in that starting with coins that can be found easily in circulation can definitely help to give a love to collecting and hopefully fuel a life long adventure of collecting other coins!
@@supg66 Unless it's an inexpensive coin that you pulled from circulation. If you want to shine up a 20-cent wheat penny or a $2.00 Roosevelt dime, go ahead. It's your coin.
Great video, thanks. I recently experienced the "busy" shop owner... I left. Funny, I was there to purchase several items, ready to buy, he was too busy...
Thank you... I have retired an just starting out .. I am doing it fun and may be make some money down the line.. I liked you what you had to say an fell that you are up front. Thank you ,
Thank you for the feedback! I try my hardest to keep our store running in that manner, we want all of the information up front so we can be 100% transparent with out clients and help them to become educated so they can ensure they are being treated right no matter where they shop.
Metals have a tendancy to turn colors depending on the storage conditions, without seeing it I can't tell you for sure but if you would like to send a photo of it I can give you some info on it.
Cheryl Javadi I have heard something about two larger numbers on pennies. I'm pretty sure those are worth loads of money and I would suggest keeping it.
Seriously now and here's the truth. Both mints Philadelphia and Denver had 2 die varieties in 1960. The 1960 without a mint mark is Philadelphia, the 1960D is Denver. Now both mints made small date and large date varieties. None of them will make you rich. The most expensive is the 1960 Philadelphia small date and worth about $7-$10 in MS-65. The rest at MS-65 are worth .30 to $1.00 each. BUT there are proof coin version from that vear also with small and large dates. Again in proof the Philadelphia small date is the more expensive one. And worth $22-25 at PR-65. The really rare one and most expensive is a double die 1960D small over large date coin and that's worth about $500-$550 in MS-65. It's pretty rare though, and none of the 1960s are gonna make you rich but they are fun to look for and try to complete a set of 4 and hopefully find that elusive 1960D small date over large date double die.
I would be curious both from a personal stand point as well as a business stand point how one “values” or should value their collection. Melt value / paid price / market value Of course the standards are applied; condition/grade, mint, mintage, etc. Any feedback is greatly appreciated.
Get a Blue Book for prices a Local Coin Store (LCS) might offer you if you want to sell a coin. Get a Red Book for prices you might have to pay to buy a coin at an LCS. Private sales often fall somewhere in between. For insurance value, use the Red Book because that is what you will have to pay to replace your collection if it is stolen or lost in a fire. But if your heirs wish to sell your coins after you are gone, they are only going to get close to Blue Book.
A computer microscope is not bad but you need to make sure you are viewing at around 10x-20x max anything more than that and you start seeing the metal surface in such a high magnification that is hard to tell the difference between a scratch and the metal imperfections.
im in canada my question is i have a few rolls of canadian pennies from the last year that they were minted in 2012 before they were taken out of production how can you put a price on something like that ... thanks for replying
@@GorgonnogroG Yeah in most cases it takes some time for them to gain value... I looked on ebay and few other auctions sites and it looks like full BU Rolls are going for anywhere between $1.25 and $3 so I would definitely hang onto them and see if they continue to increase. I am also not sure what the total mintage was for the last year so that could be playing a roll in the price staying relatively low
He just did. Watch the video. Buy a Whitman coin folder for nickels. It will cost about $3.50. Buy a magnifying glass. Start looking through the nickels in your coin jar and put them in the folder. (This assumes you are in the USA but from your grammar, English might not be your first language. If you are not in the USA, start collecting low value coins of your home country, saving one of each date).
@@libertybelonges1542 You don't need to start collecting special coins or old ones. Start with common coins and new ones. Google "coin collecting supplies" in your language and get started. Good luck.
I know you said there will no longer be background music in future videos but theres a high pitch part of this music that makes the video almost unbearable for headphone users, I would recommend reuploading this with no music, I feel more people will watch.
Very Informative, Bravo !
The background music is annoying. You don’t need the distraction. You have a great voice.
Thank you for the feedback! I am currently creating new content and it will not contain background music. If there are any topics you would like to see us cover shoot me an email at Raymond@saharacoins.net
Yeah but if that was him playing guitar you just dissed his whole music career aspirations.
and the ENTIRE TIME its like PULSING this insanely high pitched brutal alarm sounding B.S. ... I couldn't take it , had to shut the video off half way.
I'm discontinuing watching now because of this
well there is a simple way to fix that how about you just actually listen to what he is saying as per the reason of visiting the video instead of wondering of topic and nit picking at some stupid little detail
New to coin collecting, you helped me out, and gave me great advice, thanks!
Thanks Ray I enjoyed your video for new collectors.
Great video. A Knew it was gonna be one in the first min. Lots of good info.
I personally think new collectors should start in Jefferson nickels or rosevelt dimes, reason being they are all attainable at reasonable costs and can be completed while also giving the collector practice on searching for quality and learning grading and errors, and handling.
I think the worst thing is for someone to start in like Morgan dollars or wheat pennies where the key dates are prohibitive to completion. Plenty of collectors start in these areas and wind up overpaying for coins because they don't know what to look for besides "shiny" or they buy the cheaper ones and when they get to the tougher more expensive coins they put off buying them and lose interest and never complete the set and stop collection.
I like coins that can be pulled from circulation for beginners for that sense of completion and they can always upgrade their examples which keeps the hobby as a hobby plus every year there new ones to add to the collection.
Morgan dollars are kind of advanced in my opinion for beginners, there's a lot to learn and then when you get the basic set done then there's VAMs next for the die varieties. It gets expensive.
While they are collecting the cheaper coins from circulation and learning and enjoying they can also be saving up for the key date coins for a tougher set. If you can manage to get the keys and semi keys early the rest comes easy.
From what I've noticed people run through "the rest" then when they hit the expensive tough ones, they give up on collecting altogether.
Just my 2 cents on it.
Also gloves are a good thing, not only to protect the nice coins, but to protect your hands from filthy coins. You be surprised how dirty coins are after searching tools of coins to fill collection books, DON'T RUB YOUR EYE AFTER GOING THROUGH THOUSANDS OF PENNIES! HAHA HAHA I made that mistake once.
Also you are looking at the guy who left a thumb print on a brand new shiny silver eagle when I was new to the hobby. I never got it off the damn coin.
Does it matter what kind of gloves? Latex? Also, what can you clean the coins with or should I never clean them?
@@Notkeiran powder free latex gloves are fine, probably better than lint free cotton gloves because there is still a minute bit of lint.
Lint or powder will kill your coins. You don't really need glove if roll searching coins though the coins are generally circulated and dirty to begin with but with mint state and proof coins in perfect condition the slightest contaminant like a piece of lint or particle of powder can hurt the coins perfectness.
Biggest mistake I hear a lot of new collectors make is breaking out the coins from the mints proof set holders to then put them in airtight capsules to try to stop toning from happening due to the mint packaging materials. Beginners end up dropping or touching or coughing or getting dust on the coins surface and it winds up worse than if they just left it alone to do its thing naturally. Toning is a natural occurrence with metals over time. It can be slowed but not completely stopped. I can't tell you how many proof coins I've heard ruined by new collectors trying to protect them better. We all make our mistakes when learning.
Great information here.. You are correct in that starting with coins that can be found easily in circulation can definitely help to give a love to collecting and hopefully fuel a life long adventure of collecting other coins!
@@Notkeiran never clean ever
@@supg66 Unless it's an inexpensive coin that you pulled from circulation. If you want to shine up a 20-cent wheat penny or a $2.00 Roosevelt dime, go ahead. It's your coin.
What great information. Thank you very much for sharing.
Thanks for the good information I learned some important information
Anytime! Thanks for the feedback!
Great video, thanks. I recently experienced the "busy" shop owner... I left. Funny, I was there to purchase several items, ready to buy, he was too busy...
Thank you... I have retired an just starting out .. I am doing it fun and may be make some money down the line.. I liked you what you had to say an fell that you are up front. Thank you ,
Thank you for the feedback! I try my hardest to keep our store running in that manner, we want all of the information up front so we can be 100% transparent with out clients and help them to become educated so they can ensure they are being treated right no matter where they shop.
You explained the grading companies before the grading systematic. Lol!
Yup. Knowing what grading companies are is pointless if you don't know what grades are.
I like all types of coins
RED HOT TIPS HERE: 10x Loupe, PCGS / NGC top 2, no PVC holders and showing the SHELDON COIN GRADING SCALE; great info for a limited overview, TYVM.
Thank you for your information
Great vid!
Awesome tips
Very nice introductory video!
thank you good info I have 1976 kennedy halfs they all have a yellow hue to them does that mean anything
Metals have a tendancy to turn colors depending on the storage conditions, without seeing it I can't tell you for sure but if you would like to send a photo of it I can give you some info on it.
Thank u for your help
Awesome tips:)
Well said .!!
can you tell something about world paper money collecting, how identifying correct notes and evaluate currency like that.
Elnestro??
Thank you for the idea, I will definitely dig into this a bit and see about getting a video put together on the topic
@@Saharacoins Thank you so much. It was a great job.
I have a penny 1960, but the '0' is a 'o'. Is this important?
Cheryl Javadi yes that is worth about 2,663 dollars! I would sell that now! Good find.
i got one too 196o with D
Cheryl Javadi I have heard something about two larger numbers on pennies. I'm pretty sure those are worth loads of money and I would suggest keeping it.
Seriously now and here's the truth.
Both mints Philadelphia and Denver had 2 die varieties in 1960.
The 1960 without a mint mark is Philadelphia, the 1960D is Denver.
Now both mints made small date and large date varieties. None of them will make you rich.
The most expensive is the 1960 Philadelphia small date and worth about $7-$10 in MS-65. The rest at MS-65 are worth .30 to $1.00 each.
BUT there are proof coin version from that vear also with small and large dates. Again in proof the Philadelphia small date is the more expensive one. And worth $22-25 at PR-65.
The really rare one and most expensive is a double die 1960D small over large date coin and that's worth about $500-$550 in MS-65. It's pretty rare though, and none of the 1960s are gonna make you rich but they are fun to look for and try to complete a set of 4 and hopefully find that elusive 1960D small date over large date double die.
I would be curious both from a personal stand point as well as a business stand point how one “values” or should value their collection.
Melt value / paid price / market value
Of course the standards are applied; condition/grade, mint, mintage, etc.
Any feedback is greatly appreciated.
Get a Blue Book for prices a Local Coin Store (LCS) might offer you if you want to sell a coin. Get a Red Book for prices you might have to pay to buy a coin at an LCS. Private sales often fall somewhere in between. For insurance value, use the Red Book because that is what you will have to pay to replace your collection if it is stolen or lost in a fire. But if your heirs wish to sell your coins after you are gone, they are only going to get close to Blue Book.
Good video! Thanks.
Thank you
How to proceed Sahara coin buy
I can’t find you guys on eBay I want order some but no match in the search bar ? If your going by the company name
Is a computer microscope OK com paired to a loop.
A computer microscope is not bad but you need to make sure you are viewing at around 10x-20x max anything more than that and you start seeing the metal surface in such a high magnification that is hard to tell the difference between a scratch and the metal imperfections.
Dear sir. I have two. 1932. D. & S. Quarters and i like coins. Thanks.
im in canada my question is i have a few rolls of canadian pennies from the last year that they were minted in 2012 before they were taken out of production how can you put a price on something like that ... thanks for replying
For something that modern it is hard to put a price on it currently, I would say hang onto them and later on in the future they may demand a premium.
@@Saharacoins even if they dont make them anymore ??? even after 7 years there still worth face value ? ok ill hang on to them
@@GorgonnogroG Yeah in most cases it takes some time for them to gain value... I looked on ebay and few other auctions sites and it looks like full BU Rolls are going for anywhere between $1.25 and $3 so I would definitely hang onto them and see if they continue to increase. I am also not sure what the total mintage was for the last year so that could be playing a roll in the price staying relatively low
Excellent collection 👍
Check this coins th-cam.com/video/xmn0YBMIALM/w-d-xo.html
I have a shit load of tin coins from melaka from the mud of the Melaka river. What are they worth?
A shit load of coins x a little bit each = $3.17 USD.
No 1 rule for starting out never buy a coin with a hole in 🤔
Thankyou
I want a 1914-d penny how much ?
I got a 1922 corn dollar bill I would like to sell it but how do I go about it
I saw a shiny once.
You probably didn’t hear, I don’t shine shoes no more
How to grade my coin. Sir.how much it cost. 1925 Lincoln cent error .send message to know me.thanks from phillipines
can you to help me to start a coin collecting
He just did. Watch the video. Buy a Whitman coin folder for nickels. It will cost about $3.50. Buy a magnifying glass. Start looking through the nickels in your coin jar and put them in the folder. (This assumes you are in the USA but from your grammar, English might not be your first language. If you are not in the USA, start collecting low value coins of your home country, saving one of each date).
@@jamesdarnell8568 but i am from europ. That is different. We have hear not a lot of special coins in our money. Or old wone s
@@libertybelonges1542 You don't need to start collecting special coins or old ones. Start with common coins and new ones. Google "coin collecting supplies" in your language and get started. Good luck.
@@jamesdarnell8568 thanks
Omg what's that ticking?
Can i buy silver coins from you..i am a newBie in coin collecting here in PH😊
Yes we do sell silver. We have an ebay store as well as a retail store but we are located in Las Vegas, NV
Sahara Coins & Precious Metals i mean do you ship orders to the PHILs.? Direct from your store? Maybe i can avail a discount😊
I have 3 lincolin penny 1974d 1967 1966 and I have more rare coins like a Sacagawea 2000p coin I have one how to sell it coins
Novie Rivera all of those coins aren’t worth anything
@@polqrgraal-mounts2403 *dreams crushed, goes back to Xbox
@@polqrgraal-mounts2403 Incorrect. They are worth $1.03, which will get you a small chocolate frosty at Wendy's. And that ain't nothing.
Who Byers take the rare coin I want to sell my old coin
I want to sell my entire collection
I know you said there will no longer be background music in future videos but theres a high pitch part of this music that makes the video almost unbearable for headphone users, I would recommend reuploading this with no music, I feel more people will watch.
Hello I have a 1890 penny
I have 1pound 1983
I was enjoying it but then couldn't handle the squeeking
Can you rid the background music, it’s distracting
Sounds like someone is filming a porno
You should check out my websit i have old coins. April mobbley.
1940 s
Great video with annoying music