I carry a SAK Compact and a Gerber Dime. For me the advantage, in additional to overall size, is pliers and screw driver in separate tools where I can use both at the same time, to hold a nut while tightening or loosening a bolt.
The way i describe toughness vs strength in the context of steel would be, toughness is how much a steel can deform before failure and strength would be how much does it take the steel to deform.
The way I tend to think of steel qualities is in terms of resistance - corrosion resistance (stainlessness) wear resistance (edge retention) and impact resistance (toughness). That helps me get to the issues that matter most to me, and to avoid the semantics.
@@Kevin-qj7fp Your point is correct. Toughness is not just about impact (chopping, batoning, etc.) although that is an important factor. Toughness also applies to sheering ('shearing' is for sheep!!) & torsion (ie. twisting) forces. For example. your knife is embedded in some wood so you wiggle/twist it to get it out. A 'tough' blade would either resist damage or would be inclined to bend/roll rather than crack/break off. Have a great day.
@@realbroggo Yes, quite a good description regarding shearing (which applies in physics and engineering as well as in tending of sheep 🙂). It's an aspect of toughness that would definitely matter more to me if I were in a different environment.
@@Kevin-qj7fp this involves engineering strength of materials concepts- shear stress from shear forces and shear stress from torsion are both ways of inducing tension stress in the steel, and fracture comes from tension stress.
@@realbroggo i also look at sheering as directional force imagine a rod half of it is being pushed away the other half is being pushed towards you with this said where in the list of qualities would sheer resistance land if you listed them from 1 to 10 (you can also imagine instances when you replace the rod with a knife where you push on the knife on the handle and the blade is withstanding and has some sheer resistance)
While always pains me to suggest the use of a pull-through sharpener as they can wreak havoc on your blade edge, I carry a Lanky Blade Medic in my hiking pack or hiking pants for emergencies only. Lansky have a couple of pull through sharpeners that you can look at. The reason I use the Blade Medic is that it a) has a ceramic sharpening rod which you can use instead of the pull through - great for touch-ups and b) it has a tapered diamond rod which you can use to sharpen serrations or again use instead of the pull through to do touch-ups. If you don't need pull through then Lansky also make some double sided folding sharpening paddles which work well - although you only get 2 x grit options. Hope it helps. Have a great day.
Thank you for the clarification. I carry one every day at work that I must have bought at least 10 years ago and I couldn’t find the model. It must be the one you’re referring to because it’s not a thick knife like the champ or the (other one). Personally I’d love to see one with a main blade, pliers, a saw, a Philips screwdriver and a magnifying glass. Good lineup and the knife could still be thin enough to not bother me, carrying it 40 hours a week.
Fascinating discussion on Shun Classic and Japanese steels. I just finished sharpening a Shun Nakiri on my new Ken Onion belt sharpener and I noticed that the knife was catching on the paper when I tried to cut it. Under an 8x magnifier, I could see 2 places where there were tiny chips out of the blade. I have had a set of Henckels for over 30 years and I've never seen any of them chipped like the Shun.
The best knife to make a peanut butter and jam sandwich is the Victorinox Swiss Classic Foldable Paring Knife with Wavy Edge, which I've used many many times to make PBJs and other types of sandwiches.
Hey, DCA (and team), thanks for the great content. I understand (though I’m not convinced by) asymmetric edges on kitchen knives. I’ve seen quite a few rescue knives with chisel grinds - what advantages does a single sided bevel offer in this application, please?
I'm far from an expert but here's a couple of points. Single bevel/chisel grinds change the way the edge interacts with a surface. For example, if you need to scrape/peel something, a chisel grind (flat side) will allow you to get a really low angle while maintaining edge contact. With a standard double bevel grind often when you get to a low angle the blade edge will lift off. Also if you want a very straight flat cut a chisel grind (flat side) will offer this - one of the reasons the Japanese love them. I have also heard a number of chefs state they find chisel grinds easier to sharpen. Hope this helps.
Having worked thousands of hours with various chef knives, I will say that the Shun Classic's VG-10 is more brittle than anything Wusthoff uses. Having said that I used the same Shun Classic *" Chef's knife for thirteen years straight. The cutting and agility and light weight just make it better for long hours of processing ingredients, IMO.
Great video! I do have even more questions about toughness and strength... and edge retention, but that is ok. I enjoyed the jokes, and learning is fun with you guys.
Hey DCA and crew. I've been collecting for a while now and realized in don't have enough fixed blades. I want to get something good for bushcraft and something for EDC. What would you recommend anywhere up to $200 each? Also I want to thank you and everyone there for all the excellent content, education and enjoyment I get from the channel. Keep up the great work
Hi DCA, Thomas and Knife Center. Unless it’s Armageddon I won’t use my fixed blade to baton wood, I’ll use an axe or something else. I always enjoy the content from Knife Center. Rick in SD.
Not a question, just general information about a fan - me! I worked in a scene shop and as a stage hand/stage manager from high school, through college, and out into the working world (1971-1991). My knife during all that time was a Sears (Craftsman) knife, which was essentially the 1961 version of the Swiss Army Soldier knife, same size, but with plastic, ’fake wood’ scales - with the old, claw-style can opener, not the Victorinox upgrade with the small screwdriver. It served me very well, and with it, I could handle pretty much everything I encountered. Today, I carry the Victorinox Evogrip 14, which has the same tool set (with the Victorinox can opener upgrade) plus the corkscrew, nail file, scissors, and the in-corkscrew screwdriver. I intentionally do NOT have the locking main blade. In these modern times, any locking blade, no matter how small, tends to be classed as a ‘weapon’. It’s easier to defend it as a ‘tool’ if that blade doesn’t lock. I also have several other knives (including Victorinox Huntsman and others, Buck 110, Buck 119, Morakniv Garberg, etc.). I enjoy watching all of your videos. Thank you.
Wow, sounds like a Scandivex edge might be the solution You are correct "favourite " does give away my UK location For those wondering, the channels are Rob Evans Woodsman and Dutch Bushcraft knives Thanks for the answer Take care Graham
Could you do a video on survival with this scenario? 7-10 knives and tools for 7 years of survival in the woods under $2000 one has to be an EDC. It can have additional tools in one knife or sheath and an axe, saw or another tool could be included in the kit.
Hey DCA, why is there no love out there for the SAK Cybertool? I've carried one in my pocket since I first started work in IT 20+ years ago. It has a wide range of tools, has held up great, and imo has the most useful bit driver on a multi-tool. When my kids come asking to swap batteries on their toys with deep/hard to reach screws, I don't bust out my Leatherman...I reach for the cybertool! Keep up the great work you two!
Hey DCA, Thomas, and crew. I'm sure this has been asked before, but I'm going to ask anyway. My son doesn't own any safe queen knives, he uses them. I want to get him a hard use knife, that holds a edge for a long time. No Tanto blades. But all other blade styles are fine. Must be a folder. $200-300 price range. Thanks guys. Shout out to another Virginia company
Heres a question for DCA & Seth. In each of the categories, slipjoint, locking folder and fixed blade, if you could have 1 knife from each category what would it be?
Toughness of steel is its resistance to fracture- some steel gets to a certain point and breaks, another steel can get to that point but instead of immediately breaking it starts to deform. This is a tougher steel. You do something with your knife that you shouldn't do and you end up with a bent blade instead of a broken blade. In other terminology a tough steel would be considered a more ductile steel. Toughness of a blade depends on the steel but probably more on the shape of the blade. A thin blade will be less tough, a blade with holes will be less tough, a blade with notches in the wrong place will be less tough. Some steels are more sensitive to stress concentratches at notches and holes than other steels and these irregularities in the blade will prevent the steel from achieving its full strength, it will break first.
Hi DCA and Thomas, question for you: my new CJRB Scoria has Pakkawood scales which help make this knife so beautiful. Does Pakkawood need any maintenance? Most wood needs some love every so often, but treated wood may be different. I don't want to do something that might change the bright color of my Scoria. Thanks!
Hardness: resisting abrasion - e.g. scraping a knife on a rock and scratching the edge Toughness: absorbing energy (shock and impact, also exhibited indirectly thru concentrated forces) without breaking - e.g. batoning or dropping a knife on its tip/edge and chipping it Strength: resisting load before permanently deforming (yield strength) or breaking (ultimate strength) - e.g. hanging weight from a Triad lock until the blade/pin/lockbar/handle breaks
I can’t remember what knife it was, but I saw Knife. I think it was from the Ontario knife company and they put out a couple of amazingly inexpensive knives that were geared toward cooking while you were camping and one of them look like a serrated butter knife. I think they were like nine dollars and that knife came to mind in relationship to the peanut butter sandwich.
Greetings from a crazed UK pensioner. I really enjoy your videos. My EDC is a little Gerber Shuffle. As you know it has a small blade, and the body carries a bottle opener and a screwdriver. Can you recommend something similar but slightly up market?
Some of the larger Victorinox knives might suit. Some have locking blades if that's a requirement. Some come with nice handle treatments/colours if that's an issue. So many combinations available you'll find a model that suits. Not sure what pricing is like in the UK but Victorinox usually aren't too expensive. DCA might be able to offer up some other options. Have a great day.
DCA in the spirit of this topic I'm hoping you can share some insight into how 1095 became the standard for "survival knives" and bushcraft beaters when it's not a particularly tough steel. Why is that the preferred stock over something like a basic 420 that's substantially tougher, stainless, and just as easy to sharpen in the field?
I must question the assertion that 420 stainless is tougher than 1095 HC. I've been into knives for 35+ years and this has never been my experience. It's 1095's reasonably high toughness and moderate edge retention that keeps it in use even today. That aside ...... It's been around forever and was the best steel we had for some time. 1095 is a simple steel. ie. pretty much just iron + carbon (although some alloying is permitted). Simple steels contain between approx. 0.10% to 1.00% carbon (steel can have more carbon that this but over 1% tends to be alloyed and hence no longer 'simple'.). It was the discovery of simple steel that led to a massive jump in knife quality & production. (Steel holds an edge much better than all that came before it and has other benefits such as high melting point and more .....) Simple steels are cheap to produce and easy to work with. Lower % have low hardness but high toughness while higher % have higher hardness but lower toughness. Sometime ago makers seem to have agreed that 1095 (0.95% carbon) has the best balance between toughness & hardness (for a simple carbon steel). If you need more toughness you can certainly consider 1080 (0.80%) or 1075 (0.75%) carbon steels with only minimal loss of edge retention. Don't forget that when discussing steel you must also consider heat treatment. I would take a properly heat treated 1905 blade over 420 stainless any day (unless corrosion resistance was primary factor in which case I would still not use 420 and would find myself a better stainless steel).
@@realbroggo it's an important discussion thank you! I do think it's something worth exploring. using knife steel nerds' simplified rating system 420 is a 10/10 for toughness vs. 3.5/10 for 1095. this bears out with my own personal experience (only 10 years though), where a little backpacker's knife in 420 takes a real beating but has garbage edge retention and my BK14 in 1095 strops up screaming sharp, but light prying (I know, I know) led to a bent tip. it also squares with manufacturer spec sheets for the different steels. by the numbers, 420 is tougher than 3V, but this may be a situation where real world usage is different than engineers tests. I was hoping that david, since he has knowledge of both retail knife history and manufacturing could shed some light! I think that it's likely the cost of manufacturing for 1095 that make it popular since it can be cheap to make in thick stock and heat treats are much simpler. based on my limited checks at NJ Steel Baron and Alpha Knife Supply sheet costs for the two steels are similar, but I don't know what the wholesale pricing would look like for manufacturers. I also wonder how much of the affect of the choice is based on the retail markets' collective belief that 1095 is a "tough steel" and the negative perception of 420. maybe it just comes down to balance of properties, although the mild increase in edge retention doesn't seem like it's worth the tradeoff to me
Convex grinds are hard to find. I only own one rare Bowie knife that features a convex grinds on 52-100 steel. I have a large knife collection, been collecting for years...they are rare and pricey
If you want US or China made - very true. Convex grinds are more popular in Europe. Spanish made knives - often have convex grinds and are usually not too expensive. I have a couple of Joker knives with convex grinds that work really well. Some affordable Scandinavian & Italian blades with convex grinds are also out there. But you're right - compared to other grinds there's definitely much less choice. Have a great day.
Strength is a measure of how much stress a material can handle before fracturing. Ductility is a measure of how much a material can deform before it fractures. Toughness is generally considered to be a combination of strength and ductility and can be thought of as how much energy or damage a material can absorb before it fractures.
Strength is, in a simplified sense, the ability of the material to withstand a constant force. Think of a structural I-beam, a steel beam can hold larger loads than an aluminum one. Design/shape and amount of material and we’re, can affect strength of a particular piece, but materials can have different strength ratings when tested in a like for like manner. Toughness is related to impact resistance and the ability to withstand chips and cracks. It is basically the opposite of brittleness. Stronger materials tend to be more stiff/less mailable and more brittle. Tough materials tend to be less brittle and have more flex/malleability. Real world examples… A baseball bat would prioritize toughness, a pry bar would prioritize strength. TLDR: in a like for like comparison… Strength is how well a material withstands forces/loads. Toughness is how well a material handles impacts and resistance to breaking. It is the opposite of brittleness in basic terms.
Lots of solid makers these days. You will get what you pay for. A solid fixed blade with proper care will last a lifetime. Steel and design make all the difference.
could you do a video on survival with this scenario? 7 knives and tools for 7 years of survival in the woods under $1000 one has to be an EDC. It can have addition tools in one knife and an axe or other tool could be included.
Saw the TOPS knife I want most and boom, here I am. They to 1095 so we’ll you forget it’s a high carbon kinda cheap steel. And that traction coating is beast.
4:00 Best description of toughness/strength I've yet heard! Legionaires? Seriously? ;-) Romans were legionaries! Legionaires arose from the French Foreign Legion, and is a French term. These days (due to massive verbal contamination) the two terms have become synonymous! Yuch! 12:00 Scandi vs other grinds for feathersticking? Wow! serious topic. Also what is a featherstick? How fine? Do curls have to be ultra-fine, and have multiple curls? Depends who you speak to or read or view! The bushcrafting world seems to have adopted the fine curl mantra and applies that to all bushcrafting - that is my impression only, and I could be wrong! The fact that there are dozens, if not hundreds, of contrary viewpoints on the issue does not help. I tend to agree with you though - particular skill, for a particular type of featherstick of a particular type of wood, in a particular condition, with a particular grind, ...........well I could go on, but that would not be constructive. Too many variables! To quote: "...... what works for you!". 15:18 Kitchen knives: I'm back to my hobby-horse - use knives for the purpose for which they were designed and constructed. Fine edge, thin blades are designed for slicing and cutting soft material like most vegetables, while for robust work like separating bones, or chopping through them, one needs a more robust tool, like a thicker blade or even a cleaver. That is why kitchen knife rails have so many different knives on them. A lemon tree Dear commenter! Peanut butter sandwich - LOL!!!
Hey DCA and crew. I agree that convex edges are better at feathering wood over true scandi. Scandi grinds bite to much, and have less control in the cut by nature. I say a flat grind with convex edge rules. But my question is, are there any knives with titanium cheeks and steel core? I have a knife of a well known Swedish brand with a VG10 core and 420 sides. Is Titanium hard to bond with steel? Obvious you cannot really sharpen the spine. But the Titanium will need no care at all. Less care is more fun in my opinion.
Hey DCA! Im looking for a blade that could be carried while snowboarding. Stainless steel, orange/easy to see scales, lightweight, easy to use with gloves on, low price in the case it is lost, preferably a fixed blade, etc. I would appreciate your feedback!
This is re the kitchen knives toughness issue. How does hardness/heat treat factor in? I’ve found that the European-style chef knives have both a less acute angle and softer steel on the Rockwell scale than Japanese knives. Which contributes to the Japanese knives being more prone to chipping if handled roughly. How does “hardness” relate to toughness?
Hi DCA ! A serious (very?) question: Find me the perfect fidget knife, one with front and back flipper tabs, a cutout for thumb and middle finger flicks and a finger safe lock so it can also wrist flick! Preferably a gents knife (With all the demands, it will be nice if it will also have an edge..) Thanks! Love your videos!
Hey! I know I'm not DCA, but a recommendation that comes to mind is the Kizer Cormorant. Front flipper + back flipper + opening hole + button lock. Its looks might be a bit polarizing so I don't know if you'd consider quite "gentlemanly," but I'd argue the titanium version is pretty clean looking.
Kitchen knife steel answer as a professional cook. A $45 Victorinox scores about 92/100 for me and you can beat the dickens out of them. They cut beautifully and are easy to maintain. Meanwhile, an R2/SG2 Japanese knife cuts better and is finished better but I'd only rate it as 95/100 with an asterisk about how it's not for cutting bones or chopping open a can.
strength is how much does it take to damage toughness is when damaged, how the deformation is forming. bending or breaking more though more bending less toughness more chipping hard to put into words give you that
Dearest DCA and KC crew: I am a guy that carries my folders tip down. Over the past few years, I have noticed that tip down options are becoming less and less common. This includes the aftermarket for scales, as well as reversible configurations such as Spyderco's 4 position folders. Is tip down carry being phased out? Have the knife gods forsaken me?
One thing I've wondered, are double detent slipjoints called that because they use a detent ball for both open and closed position, or because they use two detent balls, or is it both? I've heard both explanations and I don't know which is more accurate. Do most double detent slipjoints even use two detent balls? That sort of info doesn't get listed
Hi there.. i love my only one knife bugout so much , but i lost it .. Can you recomend a really slicy knife that affordable .. my money condition is not that good for this moment.. Thank you
Good day DCA and co. I recently lost my esee 5 canoe. Mainly used for heavy camp tasks ie. Splitting wood, etc. I was looking at getting another, but was thinking of something else. Such as the Joker Nomad. Tops operator 7, such a awesome looker. Another Esee. Lion steel 6. Zt 0006. Any other recomendation? What would you suggest? Thanks!
I have the Joker Nomad, TOPS Operator 7 & ESEE 6 (not 5). Forget the Operator as a dedicated hard use camp/woods knife. Looks cool but really is a do-all tactical blade - look up 'sharpened pry bar' in the dictionary and you'll see a photo of an Operator 7!! It's very thick and heavy - good for forcing open a locked door but poor at wood processing. Both the Nomad & ESEE 6 are great hard use do all camp/woods knives & priced about the same. Both can easily transition to survival knives if you end up in a situation. Differences come down to ergos, the steels and sheaths. The Nomad has better ergonomics - more sculpted handle. As for steel, Nomad uses N965 stainless where as ESEE 6 uses 1095 high-carbon. ie. Nomad has better corrosion resistance - if you're into canoeing then this is a real issue. Nomad holds an edge longer whereas ESEE has better toughness. As for sheaths, Nomad is leather and ESEE is plastic. I really love the Nomad's leather sheath but if canoeing this may be an issue. Personally, I would go for the Nomad (stainless & more comfortable to use) but you might just need to consider getting a kydex sheath made. I'm sure DCA will throw some others on the table to consider. Have a great day.
Are there design features or trends of folders or fixed knives of "old" that you feel would be nice if they were modernized? I recently found all of my 1990s knives, and every knife tried to have some type of rubber handle. I find many of them significantly more comfortable than my modern knives. I also miss the comfort of Spyderco's integrated pocket clips on the lightweight models. Lefties be damned.
In my opinion the strenght of a knife has more to do with its construction (and if it's a folder with the type of lock too) than with the steel. Toughness instead is referred to steel.
Fellas, I have a "find me a knife" question. I have a Bugout and love it. I also have a CRKT Overland and love it too. Can you find me something that is the combination of the best of both? $150 a fair budget?
I have just recently purchased the Kubey Drake and really like the style of the blade. What other companies have the same style or closely related to the Kubey Drake?
All S35VN is made by Crucible in the USA. But many knives made of that steel are made elsewhere, Crucible will just supply those foreign companies with the raw materials. CPM stands for Crucible Particle Metallurgy. It is a prefix for the particle steels made by the company Crucible CTS is the company Carpenter Technology's prefix for some of their steels. They also use the prefix CTS Micro Melt for their particle steels.
As with many terms in the knife industry there are no strict definitions. OMHO the primary criteria for an EDC fixed blade is discreteness/ease of carry. If you're carrying a fixed blade on your belt or around your neck or in your pocket all day then it just has to be out of the way and easy to carry - almost like it's not there. Too bulky and it just becomes too annoying. This will obviously vary between users but, I find 3.5 inches with a slim handle about the max I can EDC with 3 inches probably the sweet spot. Sheath is a big contributor here so that must also be considered. DCA - comments??
Question for DCA and crew: I like a big knife and I like Rambo. Are the Rambo replica knives just for show or are they actually usable? Love your videos, thank you for all you do.
Hey David, can you recommend a fixed blade knife for a rafting guide buddy of mine? Hopefully something very rust resistant and not so large that it intimidates guests.
Mora floating knife. Just 3.75", brightly colored so not very intimidating, floats so if it is dropped in the water it can be recovered easily. Stainless steel, and only 25-30 bucks.
Shark week is here!!! What is ur favorite shark theme knife maybe do a top 5 short. Also what knife would you carry to defend urself against a shark attack?
You should only be using proper 'Knife Terminology' when disccusing knives. That will eliminate all misunderstanding. Larren Thomas is THE geru on knives. Get his book 'Knife Engineering' to learn everything about knife steels. Great book.
Hey DCA, i'm throwing together a bugout bag and currently have a BK9 as a primary blade. I'm looking for a small to medium fixed blade as a companion knife for finer tasks, what would you recommend?
I have a BK14 (no handle scales) as a companion to my BK7. I had a piggyback kydex sheath made up so I can carry them together. I find the BK14 very versatile and nimble. I use it for food prep when hiking (admittedly usually only for 1-3 people) and pretty much anything that I don't need a big knife for. Although not stainless, the 1095 is easy to maintain in the field and holds an edge quite well for a high-carbon steel. Of course there are many many other options out there. DCA - over to you!! Have a great day.
Hello there DCA and Thomas behind the camera. Certain TOPS knives and collabs by TOPS, for instance their night hawk collaboration with Buck, have cut outs near the spine used as an "oxygen tank wrench". I have heard people complain that this will effect the overall toughness of the blade because it causes a fracture point. Does it really matter?
Not really. They're no more a fracture point than the holes drilled in the handle for the scales. The blade may be slightly weaker than if it didn't have them, but it's not really enough to make a difference, and looking at all of the TOPS knives that have them, they're usually placed in widest portion of the blade, so there's plenty of structural support. What you have to look out for are sharp corners/angles with no radius, as those can create an area where stress concentrates, which can lead to cracks and fracturing. All of the holes for the "oxygen tank wrench" are either completely round or are oval, so I don't think they'd be an issue.
For the love of god, please make your site capable of searching/sorting for washers vs. bearings!
Yeah and plain vs peanut!
@@jaysgood10hahahah oh that's good.
Bump
For the love of God, stop being so lazy.
Take your time, and look through the lists of both.
Bronze washers > all
I carry a SAK Compact and a Gerber Dime. For me the advantage, in additional to overall size, is pliers and screw driver in separate tools where I can use both at the same time, to hold a nut while tightening or loosening a bolt.
hadn’t thought of that, nice setup
The SAK Compact is a big favorite among collectors.
@@Ericstraordinary Hard to beat the Compact as a useful everyday tool set in an easily carried package.
Thats why I edc a Knipex Cobra 150 and a Spirit X.
The way i describe toughness vs strength in the context of steel would be, toughness is how much a steel can deform before failure and strength would be how much does it take the steel to deform.
The way I tend to think of steel qualities is in terms of resistance - corrosion resistance (stainlessness) wear resistance (edge retention) and impact resistance (toughness). That helps me get to the issues that matter most to me, and to avoid the semantics.
where does shear resistance come in?
(is it spelled sheer or shear i always get that mixed up)
@@Kevin-qj7fp Your point is correct. Toughness is not just about impact (chopping, batoning, etc.) although that is an important factor. Toughness also applies to sheering ('shearing' is for sheep!!) & torsion (ie. twisting) forces. For example. your knife is embedded in some wood so you wiggle/twist it to get it out. A 'tough' blade would either resist damage or would be inclined to bend/roll rather than crack/break off. Have a great day.
@@realbroggo Yes, quite a good description regarding shearing (which applies in physics and engineering as well as in tending of sheep 🙂). It's an aspect of toughness that would definitely matter more to me if I were in a different environment.
@@Kevin-qj7fp this involves engineering strength of materials concepts- shear stress from shear forces and shear stress from torsion are both ways of inducing tension stress in the steel, and fracture comes from tension stress.
@@realbroggo i also look at sheering as directional force
imagine a rod half of it is being pushed away
the other half is being pushed towards you
with this said where in the list of qualities would sheer resistance land if you listed them from 1 to 10
(you can also imagine instances when you replace the rod with a knife where you push on the knife on the handle and the blade is withstanding and has some sheer resistance)
Best knife Channel, period!
I’m looking for a pocketable knife sharpener with “Hard, Medium, and Soft” sharpeners.
Thank you all.
While always pains me to suggest the use of a pull-through sharpener as they can wreak havoc on your blade edge, I carry a Lanky Blade Medic in my hiking pack or hiking pants for emergencies only. Lansky have a couple of pull through sharpeners that you can look at. The reason I use the Blade Medic is that it a) has a ceramic sharpening rod which you can use instead of the pull through - great for touch-ups and b) it has a tapered diamond rod which you can use to sharpen serrations or again use instead of the pull through to do touch-ups. If you don't need pull through then Lansky also make some double sided folding sharpening paddles which work well - although you only get 2 x grit options. Hope it helps. Have a great day.
Have a look at the Work Sharp Guided Field Sharpener.
Strength applies to the knife; toughness applies to the steel.
Victorinox also makes the Deluxe Tinker with the pliers. Being part of the Tinker series means it also has the nice 3D Phillips head screwdriver.
Thank you for the clarification. I carry one every day at work that I must have bought at least 10 years ago and I couldn’t find the model. It must be the one you’re referring to because it’s not a thick knife like the champ or the (other one). Personally I’d love to see one with a main blade, pliers, a saw, a Philips screwdriver and a magnifying glass. Good lineup and the knife could still be thin enough to not bother me, carrying it 40 hours a week.
Fascinating discussion on Shun Classic and Japanese steels.
I just finished sharpening a Shun Nakiri on my new Ken Onion belt sharpener and I noticed that the knife was catching on the paper when I tried to cut it.
Under an 8x magnifier, I could see 2 places where there were tiny chips out of the blade.
I have had a set of Henckels for over 30 years and I've never seen any of them chipped like the Shun.
Thank you, my friend. Instructional and friendly.
Question: With OKC unfortunately going out of business, what knife will fill the vacancy left by the venerable RAT1 ? How do you beat that icon?
nothing bc the rat 1 is still in production
Nothing beats the Ka-Bar BK2 for sandwich making...or hand to hand combat with a Ford 150.
The best knife to make a peanut butter and jam sandwich is the Victorinox Swiss Classic Foldable Paring Knife with Wavy Edge, which I've used many many times to make PBJs and other types of sandwiches.
Tough is a quality of the steel.
Strength, is a quality of the blade.
Finally a simple definition I can agree with!! Have a great day.
Hey, DCA (and team), thanks for the great content. I understand (though I’m not convinced by) asymmetric edges on kitchen knives. I’ve seen quite a few rescue knives with chisel grinds - what advantages does a single sided bevel offer in this application, please?
I'm far from an expert but here's a couple of points. Single bevel/chisel grinds change the way the edge interacts with a surface. For example, if you need to scrape/peel something, a chisel grind (flat side) will allow you to get a really low angle while maintaining edge contact. With a standard double bevel grind often when you get to a low angle the blade edge will lift off. Also if you want a very straight flat cut a chisel grind (flat side) will offer this - one of the reasons the Japanese love them. I have also heard a number of chefs state they find chisel grinds easier to sharpen. Hope this helps.
Having worked thousands of hours with various chef knives, I will say that the Shun Classic's VG-10 is more brittle than anything Wusthoff uses. Having said that I used the same Shun Classic *" Chef's knife for thirteen years straight. The cutting and agility and light weight just make it better for long hours of processing ingredients, IMO.
The link for the Fallkniven link goes to the Brisa page. Love the videos and appreciate the work going into them, thank you very much.
Scandivex grind is an amazing overall go to
Great video! I do have even more questions about toughness and strength... and edge retention, but that is ok. I enjoyed the jokes, and learning is fun with you guys.
Hey DCA and crew. I've been collecting for a while now and realized in don't have enough fixed blades. I want to get something good for bushcraft and something for EDC. What would you recommend anywhere up to $200 each? Also I want to thank you and everyone there for all the excellent content, education and enjoyment I get from the channel. Keep up the great work
Hi DCA, Thomas and Knife Center. Unless it’s Armageddon I won’t use my fixed blade to baton wood, I’ll use an axe or something else. I always enjoy the content from Knife Center. Rick in SD.
Not a question, just general information about a fan - me!
I worked in a scene shop and as a stage hand/stage manager from high school, through college, and out into the working world (1971-1991). My knife during all that time was a Sears (Craftsman) knife, which was essentially the 1961 version of the Swiss Army Soldier knife, same size, but with plastic, ’fake wood’ scales - with the old, claw-style can opener, not the Victorinox upgrade with the small screwdriver. It served me very well, and with it, I could handle pretty much everything I encountered. Today, I carry the Victorinox Evogrip 14, which has the same tool set (with the Victorinox can opener upgrade) plus the corkscrew, nail file, scissors, and the in-corkscrew screwdriver. I intentionally do NOT have the locking main blade. In these modern times, any locking blade, no matter how small, tends to be classed as a ‘weapon’. It’s easier to defend it as a ‘tool’ if that blade doesn’t lock. I also have several other knives (including Victorinox Huntsman and others, Buck 110, Buck 119, Morakniv Garberg, etc.). I enjoy watching all of your videos. Thank you.
Great show DCA & Thomas. Almost thought you were going to make a peanut butter sandwich.! Cheers from Australia.
Can you do a review of the 10 most recommended folding knives that open straight away when you take them out of your pocket?
Victorinox cyber tool the larger version with the 4-bit holder built in thing with my absolute favorite for working on electronics
Wow, sounds like a Scandivex edge might be the solution
You are correct "favourite " does give away my UK location
For those wondering, the channels are Rob Evans Woodsman and Dutch Bushcraft knives
Thanks for the answer
Take care
Graham
Could you do a video on survival with this scenario? 7-10 knives and tools for 7 years of survival in the woods under $2000 one has to be an EDC. It can have additional tools in one knife or sheath and an axe, saw or another tool could be included in the kit.
Hey DCA, why is there no love out there for the SAK Cybertool? I've carried one in my pocket since I first started work in IT 20+ years ago. It has a wide range of tools, has held up great, and imo has the most useful bit driver on a multi-tool. When my kids come asking to swap batteries on their toys with deep/hard to reach screws, I don't bust out my Leatherman...I reach for the cybertool!
Keep up the great work you two!
Omg that straight razor is beautiful
Hey DCA, Thomas, and crew. I'm sure this has been asked before, but I'm going to ask anyway. My son doesn't own any safe queen knives, he uses them. I want to get him a hard use knife, that holds a edge for a long time. No Tanto blades. But all other blade styles are fine. Must be a folder. $200-300 price range. Thanks guys. Shout out to another Virginia company
Heres a question for DCA & Seth. In each of the categories, slipjoint, locking folder and fixed blade, if you could have 1 knife from each category what would it be?
Toughness of steel is its resistance to fracture- some steel gets to a certain point and breaks, another steel can get to that point but instead of immediately breaking it starts to deform. This is a tougher steel. You do something with your knife that you shouldn't do and you end up with a bent blade instead of a broken blade. In other terminology a tough steel would be considered a more ductile steel.
Toughness of a blade depends on the steel but probably more on the shape of the blade. A thin blade will be less tough, a blade with holes will be less tough, a blade with notches in the wrong place will be less tough. Some steels are more sensitive to stress concentratches at notches and holes than other steels and these irregularities in the blade will prevent the steel from achieving its full strength, it will break first.
Hi DCA and Thomas, question for you: my new CJRB Scoria has Pakkawood scales which help make this knife so beautiful. Does Pakkawood need any maintenance? Most wood needs some love every so often, but treated wood may be different. I don't want to do something that might change the bright color of my Scoria. Thanks!
Hardness: resisting abrasion - e.g. scraping a knife on a rock and scratching the edge
Toughness: absorbing energy (shock and impact, also exhibited indirectly thru concentrated forces) without breaking - e.g. batoning or dropping a knife on its tip/edge and chipping it
Strength: resisting load before permanently deforming (yield strength) or breaking (ultimate strength) - e.g. hanging weight from a Triad lock until the blade/pin/lockbar/handle breaks
That sandwich was epic!
I can’t remember what knife it was, but I saw Knife. I think it was from the Ontario knife company and they put out a couple of amazingly inexpensive knives that were geared toward cooking while you were camping and one of them look like a serrated butter knife. I think they were like nine dollars and that knife came to mind in relationship to the peanut butter sandwich.
Greetings from a crazed UK pensioner. I really enjoy your videos. My EDC is a little Gerber Shuffle. As you know it has a small blade, and the body carries a bottle opener and a screwdriver. Can you recommend something similar but slightly up market?
Some of the larger Victorinox knives might suit. Some have locking blades if that's a requirement. Some come with nice handle treatments/colours if that's an issue. So many combinations available you'll find a model that suits. Not sure what pricing is like in the UK but Victorinox usually aren't too expensive. DCA might be able to offer up some other options. Have a great day.
DCA in the spirit of this topic I'm hoping you can share some insight into how 1095 became the standard for "survival knives" and bushcraft beaters when it's not a particularly tough steel. Why is that the preferred stock over something like a basic 420 that's substantially tougher, stainless, and just as easy to sharpen in the field?
I must question the assertion that 420 stainless is tougher than 1095 HC. I've been into knives for 35+ years and this has never been my experience. It's 1095's reasonably high toughness and moderate edge retention that keeps it in use even today. That aside ...... It's been around forever and was the best steel we had for some time. 1095 is a simple steel. ie. pretty much just iron + carbon (although some alloying is permitted). Simple steels contain between approx. 0.10% to 1.00% carbon (steel can have more carbon that this but over 1% tends to be alloyed and hence no longer 'simple'.). It was the discovery of simple steel that led to a massive jump in knife quality & production. (Steel holds an edge much better than all that came before it and has other benefits such as high melting point and more .....) Simple steels are cheap to produce and easy to work with. Lower % have low hardness but high toughness while higher % have higher hardness but lower toughness. Sometime ago makers seem to have agreed that 1095 (0.95% carbon) has the best balance between toughness & hardness (for a simple carbon steel). If you need more toughness you can certainly consider 1080 (0.80%) or 1075 (0.75%) carbon steels with only minimal loss of edge retention. Don't forget that when discussing steel you must also consider heat treatment. I would take a properly heat treated 1905 blade over 420 stainless any day (unless corrosion resistance was primary factor in which case I would still not use 420 and would find myself a better stainless steel).
@@realbroggo it's an important discussion thank you! I do think it's something worth exploring. using knife steel nerds' simplified rating system 420 is a 10/10 for toughness vs. 3.5/10 for 1095. this bears out with my own personal experience (only 10 years though), where a little backpacker's knife in 420 takes a real beating but has garbage edge retention and my BK14 in 1095 strops up screaming sharp, but light prying (I know, I know) led to a bent tip. it also squares with manufacturer spec sheets for the different steels. by the numbers, 420 is tougher than 3V, but this may be a situation where real world usage is different than engineers tests.
I was hoping that david, since he has knowledge of both retail knife history and manufacturing could shed some light! I think that it's likely the cost of manufacturing for 1095 that make it popular since it can be cheap to make in thick stock and heat treats are much simpler. based on my limited checks at NJ Steel Baron and Alpha Knife Supply sheet costs for the two steels are similar, but I don't know what the wholesale pricing would look like for manufacturers. I also wonder how much of the affect of the choice is based on the retail markets' collective belief that 1095 is a "tough steel" and the negative perception of 420. maybe it just comes down to balance of properties, although the mild increase in edge retention doesn't seem like it's worth the tradeoff to me
Convex grinds are hard to find. I only own one rare Bowie knife that features a convex grinds on 52-100 steel. I have a large knife collection, been collecting for years...they are rare and pricey
If you want US or China made - very true. Convex grinds are more popular in Europe. Spanish made knives - often have convex grinds and are usually not too expensive. I have a couple of Joker knives with convex grinds that work really well. Some affordable Scandinavian & Italian blades with convex grinds are also out there. But you're right - compared to other grinds there's definitely much less choice. Have a great day.
Strength is a measure of how much stress a material can handle before fracturing. Ductility is a measure of how much a material can deform before it fractures. Toughness is generally considered to be a combination of strength and ductility and can be thought of as how much energy or damage a material can absorb before it fractures.
FINALLY! TOPS KNIVES ONE LIFE ONE KNIFE
Leaning towards more tools steels after using some m4 👍.
Strength is, in a simplified sense, the ability of the material to withstand a constant force. Think of a structural I-beam, a steel beam can hold larger loads than an aluminum one. Design/shape and amount of material and we’re, can affect strength of a particular piece, but materials can have different strength ratings when tested in a like for like manner.
Toughness is related to impact resistance and the ability to withstand chips and cracks. It is basically the opposite of brittleness.
Stronger materials tend to be more stiff/less mailable and more brittle. Tough materials tend to be less brittle and have more flex/malleability.
Real world examples… A baseball bat would prioritize toughness, a pry bar would prioritize strength.
TLDR: in a like for like comparison… Strength is how well a material withstands forces/loads. Toughness is how well a material handles impacts and resistance to breaking. It is the opposite of brittleness in basic terms.
Lots of solid makers these days. You will get what you pay for. A solid fixed blade with proper care will last a lifetime. Steel and design make all the difference.
could you do a video on survival with this scenario? 7 knives and tools for 7 years of survival in the woods under $1000 one has to be an EDC. It can have addition tools in one knife and an axe or other tool could be included.
I had thought a partial serrated would be perfect for sandwich making, until I handled an Opinel.
Saw the TOPS knife I want most and boom, here I am.
They to 1095 so we’ll you forget it’s a high carbon kinda cheap steel. And that traction coating is beast.
4:00 Best description of toughness/strength I've yet heard!
Legionaires? Seriously? ;-) Romans were legionaries! Legionaires arose from the French Foreign Legion, and is a French term. These days (due to massive verbal contamination) the two terms have become synonymous! Yuch!
12:00 Scandi vs other grinds for feathersticking? Wow! serious topic. Also what is a featherstick? How fine? Do curls have to be ultra-fine, and have multiple curls? Depends who you speak to or read or view! The bushcrafting world seems to have adopted the fine curl mantra and applies that to all bushcrafting - that is my impression only, and I could be wrong! The fact that there are dozens, if not hundreds, of contrary viewpoints on the issue does not help. I tend to agree with you though - particular skill, for a particular type of featherstick of a particular type of wood, in a particular condition, with a particular grind, ...........well I could go on, but that would not be constructive. Too many variables! To quote: "...... what works for you!".
15:18 Kitchen knives: I'm back to my hobby-horse - use knives for the purpose for which they were designed and constructed. Fine edge, thin blades are designed for slicing and cutting soft material like most vegetables, while for robust work like separating bones, or chopping through them, one needs a more robust tool, like a thicker blade or even a cleaver. That is why kitchen knife rails have so many different knives on them. A lemon tree Dear commenter!
Peanut butter sandwich - LOL!!!
Hey DCA and crew. I agree that convex edges are better at feathering wood over true scandi. Scandi grinds bite to much, and have less control in the cut by nature. I say a flat grind with convex edge rules. But my question is, are there any knives with titanium cheeks and steel core? I have a knife of a well known Swedish brand with a VG10 core and 420 sides. Is Titanium hard to bond with steel? Obvious you cannot really sharpen the spine. But the Titanium will need no care at all. Less care is more fun in my opinion.
Hey DCA! Im looking for a blade that could be carried while snowboarding. Stainless steel, orange/easy to see scales, lightweight, easy to use with gloves on, low price in the case it is lost, preferably a fixed blade, etc. I would appreciate your feedback!
Mora Eldris? Neck carry
Mora or Hultafors
Morakniv Bushcraft in orange or Morakniv craftline 546 orange handle
also, that Peanut butter sandwich was brilliant
This is re the kitchen knives toughness issue. How does hardness/heat treat factor in? I’ve found that the European-style chef knives have both a less acute angle and softer steel on the Rockwell scale than Japanese knives. Which contributes to the Japanese knives being more prone to chipping if handled roughly. How does “hardness” relate to toughness?
Hi DCA ! A serious (very?) question:
Find me the perfect fidget knife, one with front and back flipper tabs, a cutout for thumb and middle finger flicks and a finger safe lock so it can also wrist flick!
Preferably a gents knife
(With all the demands, it will be nice if it will also have an edge..)
Thanks! Love your videos!
Hey! I know I'm not DCA, but a recommendation that comes to mind is the Kizer Cormorant. Front flipper + back flipper + opening hole + button lock. Its looks might be a bit polarizing so I don't know if you'd consider quite "gentlemanly," but I'd argue the titanium version is pretty clean looking.
Vosteed Corgi.
Can we get a list of traditional pocket knives with locks and/ or upgraded blade steel?
Kitchen knife steel answer as a professional cook.
A $45 Victorinox scores about 92/100 for me and you can beat the dickens out of them. They cut beautifully and are easy to maintain.
Meanwhile, an R2/SG2 Japanese knife cuts better and is finished better but I'd only rate it as 95/100 with an asterisk about how it's not for cutting bones or chopping open a can.
That PB sando is 🔥
I would love a show and tell of the ball bearings and washers. Please.
Do a video covering knives in different price ranges. The $10 video. The $20 video; etc.
strength is how much does it take to damage
toughness is when damaged, how the deformation is forming. bending or breaking
more though more bending less toughness more chipping
hard to put into words give you that
Interesting fact the Romans had many versions of the multi tool pocket knives!
Seriously, what would be the best, most butter knife like folder for PB&J?
Dearest DCA and KC crew: I am a guy that carries my folders tip down. Over the past few years, I have noticed that tip down options are becoming less and less common. This includes the aftermarket for scales, as well as reversible configurations such as Spyderco's 4 position folders. Is tip down carry being phased out? Have the knife gods forsaken me?
Do a video on your current best sellers.
Hello to all. Please enlighten me on the reason behind multiple types of grinds on the same blade ( Like Civi's Thug ) advantages ? Thanks.
One thing I've wondered, are double detent slipjoints called that because they use a detent ball for both open and closed position, or because they use two detent balls, or is it both? I've heard both explanations and I don't know which is more accurate. Do most double detent slipjoints even use two detent balls? That sort of info doesn't get listed
Hi there.. i love my only one knife bugout so much , but i lost it ..
Can you recomend a really slicy knife that affordable .. my money condition is not that good for this moment..
Thank you
Swiss army knives are really slicy, as well as affordable. Plus, you can get different sizes, blade shapes, and tool sets.
I would suggest the cjrb pyrite, cjrb feldspar large or small, knafs lander, buck 112 slim, or a sog terminus xr if you want a crossbar.
The Civivi Qubit has a thin, slicy blade.
Let’s talk CPM Magnacut. Is it better as a thin slicer or a thick chopper?
Question for you, why don’t they make a cork micarta scales? Can it be done? What do you think David?
Thank you, DCA
Good day DCA and co. I recently lost my esee 5 canoe. Mainly used for heavy camp tasks ie. Splitting wood, etc. I was looking at getting another, but was thinking of something else. Such as the Joker Nomad. Tops operator 7, such a awesome looker. Another Esee. Lion steel 6. Zt 0006. Any other recomendation? What would you suggest? Thanks!
I have the Joker Nomad, TOPS Operator 7 & ESEE 6 (not 5). Forget the Operator as a dedicated hard use camp/woods knife. Looks cool but really is a do-all tactical blade - look up 'sharpened pry bar' in the dictionary and you'll see a photo of an Operator 7!! It's very thick and heavy - good for forcing open a locked door but poor at wood processing. Both the Nomad & ESEE 6 are great hard use do all camp/woods knives & priced about the same. Both can easily transition to survival knives if you end up in a situation. Differences come down to ergos, the steels and sheaths. The Nomad has better ergonomics - more sculpted handle. As for steel, Nomad uses N965 stainless where as ESEE 6 uses 1095 high-carbon. ie. Nomad has better corrosion resistance - if you're into canoeing then this is a real issue. Nomad holds an edge longer whereas ESEE has better toughness. As for sheaths, Nomad is leather and ESEE is plastic. I really love the Nomad's leather sheath but if canoeing this may be an issue. Personally, I would go for the Nomad (stainless & more comfortable to use) but you might just need to consider getting a kydex sheath made. I'm sure DCA will throw some others on the table to consider. Have a great day.
Are there design features or trends of folders or fixed knives of "old" that you feel would be nice if they were modernized?
I recently found all of my 1990s knives, and every knife tried to have some type of rubber handle. I find many of them significantly more comfortable than my modern knives.
I also miss the comfort of Spyderco's integrated pocket clips on the lightweight models. Lefties be damned.
Hey DCA, what is your favorite niche knife pattern? Mine is a marlin spike knife. Thomas, any thoughts?
In my opinion the strenght of a knife has more to do with its construction (and if it's a folder with the type of lock too) than with the steel. Toughness instead is referred to steel.
Fellas, I have a "find me a knife" question. I have a Bugout and love it. I also have a CRKT Overland and love it too. Can you find me something that is the combination of the best of both? $150 a fair budget?
15:59 how about a Leathernan, which has a much bigger set of pliers and good saw, and not much bigger? (Just as another alternative)
I have just recently purchased the Kubey Drake and really like the style of the blade. What other companies have the same style or closely related to the Kubey Drake?
Check out the Kizer Cormorant. I have one and think it's a fantastic daily carry.
I think the best knife brand for making PB sandwiches is CRK because the bushings feel buttery smooth. 😅 Sorry
What's your thoughts on Ontario knives closing their USA plant?
I was hoping DCA would cut the crust off a PB&J with the carcass splitter.
I see a lot of S35VN. Does that mean it’s not USA made. Are steels only USA made if they are precluded by CPM or CTS?
All S35VN is made by Crucible in the USA. But many knives made of that steel are made elsewhere, Crucible will just supply those foreign companies with the raw materials.
CPM stands for Crucible Particle Metallurgy. It is a prefix for the particle steels made by the company Crucible
CTS is the company Carpenter Technology's prefix for some of their steels. They also use the prefix CTS Micro Melt for their particle steels.
thank u gentlemen
What’s the line between edc and regular duty or not convenient edc for a fixed blade? Thanks DCA or Thomas!
As with many terms in the knife industry there are no strict definitions. OMHO the primary criteria for an EDC fixed blade is discreteness/ease of carry. If you're carrying a fixed blade on your belt or around your neck or in your pocket all day then it just has to be out of the way and easy to carry - almost like it's not there. Too bulky and it just becomes too annoying. This will obviously vary between users but, I find 3.5 inches with a slim handle about the max I can EDC with 3 inches probably the sweet spot. Sheath is a big contributor here so that must also be considered. DCA - comments??
Question for DCA and crew: I like a big knife and I like Rambo. Are the Rambo replica knives just for show or are they actually usable? Love your videos, thank you for all you do.
I absolutely love my shun sora 8"
I hear lots of good things about Mac knives. Any experience with them ?
Hey David, can you recommend a fixed blade knife for a rafting guide buddy of mine? Hopefully something very rust resistant and not so large that it intimidates guests.
Mora floating knife. Just 3.75", brightly colored so not very intimidating, floats so if it is dropped in the water it can be recovered easily. Stainless steel, and only 25-30 bucks.
A friend of mine used to carry the Mora Eldris
@@andrewdarowski1975 I wish they made the eldris in a floating configuration.
Ontario camp plus Chef for peanut butter sandwhiches!!
Howdy, just wondering, if you need a knife to cut away the weeds that DCA gets into, what knife would be best for the task???
Actually i have a SAK that has both the pliers and the saw, but dont know the name and it is 20 years old.
Shark week is here!!! What is ur favorite shark theme knife maybe do a top 5 short. Also what knife would you carry to defend urself against a shark attack?
Re: scan vs convex, Featherstick Around and Find Out!
Have you ever considered doing an episode on sword canes?
Did anyone else think DCA was going to pull out that bloody Carcass Splitter to make a PB sandwich?
Yep. I was hoping for it. Nothing makes me smile more than when the Carcass Splitter makes an appearance.
Less is more :) -DCA
You should only be using proper 'Knife Terminology' when disccusing knives. That will eliminate all misunderstanding. Larren Thomas is THE geru on knives. Get his book 'Knife Engineering' to learn everything about knife steels. Great book.
Ohhh, peanut (knife) and butter, took me a second .
Hey DCA, i'm throwing together a bugout bag and currently have a BK9 as a primary blade. I'm looking for a small to medium fixed blade as a companion knife for finer tasks, what would you recommend?
I have a BK14 (no handle scales) as a companion to my BK7. I had a piggyback kydex sheath made up so I can carry them together. I find the BK14 very versatile and nimble. I use it for food prep when hiking (admittedly usually only for 1-3 people) and pretty much anything that I don't need a big knife for. Although not stainless, the 1095 is easy to maintain in the field and holds an edge quite well for a high-carbon steel. Of course there are many many other options out there. DCA - over to you!! Have a great day.
Hello there DCA and Thomas behind the camera. Certain TOPS knives and collabs by TOPS, for instance their night hawk collaboration with Buck, have cut outs near the spine used as an "oxygen tank wrench". I have heard people complain that this will effect the overall toughness of the blade because it causes a fracture point. Does it really matter?
Not really. They're no more a fracture point than the holes drilled in the handle for the scales. The blade may be slightly weaker than if it didn't have them, but it's not really enough to make a difference, and looking at all of the TOPS knives that have them, they're usually placed in widest portion of the blade, so there's plenty of structural support.
What you have to look out for are sharp corners/angles with no radius, as those can create an area where stress concentrates, which can lead to cracks and fracturing. All of the holes for the "oxygen tank wrench" are either completely round or are oval, so I don't think they'd be an issue.
Need a shaving razor in magnacut.
When can we expect the Victorinox Venture Pro to be available?
They went live on our site yesterday and our initial batch has already sold through. We are trying to get more. -DCA
If you're cracking an edge while using a knife, it means one of two things; either you're using the knife poorly, or the knife isn't fit to task.
Hey DCA, I am looking for a front flipper only knife to recommend to DCA so he is forced to practice. What front flipper would DCA recommend for DCA?
What is making the knife tough? Life... Experiences.... Bad choices.... Fights with other knives