Thank you for watching! Luckily, the graphite is very stable in water. If they had been made with different kinds of ink, I would have been in trouble :-)
Wow! The conservation process for such delicate paper was giving me anxiety! It seems counter intuitive to put them in a water bath, I just imagined the paper completely breaking down. You did such a wonderful job!
Hmm, it depends a bit on how thick your paper is. If the paper isn’t too thick, up to about 300-400 gsm, you can use hinges like I do in the video here. Essentially, a hinge is a small piece of paper folded in the middle, with one half adhered to the object and the other half to the backing. If it’s a large object, it might be necessary to use several hinges along the top edge. It’s better to use multiple small hinges rather than a few large ones. If the paper is too thick, you can also use photo corners, either made of clear polyester or paper. For each corner, you create a small strip that attaches to the backing to form a loop where the object’s corners can be inserted. Unfortunately, I don’t have a video demonstrating this technique. The downside of this method is that if you want to see the object’s corners, the mounting will also be visible. The advantage is that you don’t touch the object itself, allowing you to make multiple attempts without risking damage. You can also buy pre-made photo corners; they’re not always archival, but if they’re made of polyester, they can be an excellent option for home use. Just be mindful of their size-they’re typically designed for photographs and may be too small for larger objects. Regarding adhesives, the most important thing is that they are either reversible or don’t come into direct contact with the object. If you use the hinge method, I highly recommend either wheat starch paste or methylcellulose, as they are water-based and can be removed with water. However, these are products you have to mix yourself, and they can be a bit tricky to source. If your paper is very thin, around 150 gsm or less, you should be cautious with water-based adhesives, as they might reactivate your watercolours and ruin your painting. I’m not a big fan of liquid glue from stores, but it might work for photo corners since it doesn’t come into direct contact with the object. Just promise me you won’t use tape! I hope that makes sense; otherwise, feel free to ask again :-)
Thank you! :-) I use paper made from kozo fibres, for these objects with a grammage at approx. 16 g/m^2. It can be purchased at places like gmw-shop.de and preservationequipment.com , but sometimes it can be found in stores with art supplies as well.
Beautiful work! I always wanted to understand the process to restore paper. Really nice. Are the retouching materials reversible? I could never understand how it’s possible to retouch paper in a reversible way. I don’t know vem know if it’s possible. Thanks for your work and for sharing it.
Thank you for your question! The reversibility of retouchings on paper is always a bit of a dilemma. In this case, they are reversible to a certain extent, but it depends on the medium used. Here, the retouchings were done with dry pastel, which contains only very small amounts of binder and therefore doesn’t adhere very well to the paper - it’s best not to touch it with your fingers, as it will smudge everywhere. Moreover, the retouchings, at least in this case, were only done on the mounting material, meaning the retouchings could be completely removed if the mounting was also removed. That would be a risky process, but it’s not impossible.
Thank you Finally a conservator that has the same morals, values as Baumgartner. My sincere thanks and appreciation. 😊
Thank you for watching - it is very much appreciated!
Beautiful work, both the original, and your conservation. Fascinating every step of the way. Thanks !
Thank you for watching!
Superb work and video presentation! Thank you.😊
Thank you for watching!
it's so fascinating that the image doesn't get lost during wet cleaning... it looks so fragile...
Thank you for watching! Luckily, the graphite is very stable in water. If they had been made with different kinds of ink, I would have been in trouble :-)
A heroic effort! They look like a breath could shatter them!
Thank you for watching!
Wow! The conservation process for such delicate paper was giving me anxiety! It seems counter intuitive to put them in a water bath, I just imagined the paper completely breaking down. You did such a wonderful job!
Thank you! :-) The first couple of times I performed the wet cleaning processes made me anxious as well.
FASCINATING ❤ THANK YOU ❣️
Thank you for watching!
@@leaconservation, I am fairly new to watercolor painting. What adhesive or method would you recommend to mount my paintings for framing?
Hmm, it depends a bit on how thick your paper is.
If the paper isn’t too thick, up to about 300-400 gsm, you can use hinges like I do in the video here. Essentially, a hinge is a small piece of paper folded in the middle, with one half adhered to the object and the other half to the backing. If it’s a large object, it might be necessary to use several hinges along the top edge. It’s better to use multiple small hinges rather than a few large ones.
If the paper is too thick, you can also use photo corners, either made of clear polyester or paper. For each corner, you create a small strip that attaches to the backing to form a loop where the object’s corners can be inserted. Unfortunately, I don’t have a video demonstrating this technique. The downside of this method is that if you want to see the object’s corners, the mounting will also be visible. The advantage is that you don’t touch the object itself, allowing you to make multiple attempts without risking damage. You can also buy pre-made photo corners; they’re not always archival, but if they’re made of polyester, they can be an excellent option for home use. Just be mindful of their size-they’re typically designed for photographs and may be too small for larger objects.
Regarding adhesives, the most important thing is that they are either reversible or don’t come into direct contact with the object.
If you use the hinge method, I highly recommend either wheat starch paste or methylcellulose, as they are water-based and can be removed with water. However, these are products you have to mix yourself, and they can be a bit tricky to source.
If your paper is very thin, around 150 gsm or less, you should be cautious with water-based adhesives, as they might reactivate your watercolours and ruin your painting.
I’m not a big fan of liquid glue from stores, but it might work for photo corners since it doesn’t come into direct contact with the object. Just promise me you won’t use tape!
I hope that makes sense; otherwise, feel free to ask again :-)
@ , thank you so very much for the useful information! I appreciate you answering g me so thoroughly ❣️
Well Done!
Thank you and thank you for watching!
Nicely preserved. 😊
Vil du dele hvor du finder det japansk papir?
Thank you! :-)
I use paper made from kozo fibres, for these objects with a grammage at approx. 16 g/m^2. It can be purchased at places like gmw-shop.de and preservationequipment.com , but sometimes it can be found in stores with art supplies as well.
Beautiful work!
I always wanted to understand the process to restore paper. Really nice.
Are the retouching materials reversible? I could never understand how it’s possible to retouch paper in a reversible way. I don’t know vem know if it’s possible.
Thanks for your work and for sharing it.
Thank you for your question!
The reversibility of retouchings on paper is always a bit of a dilemma. In this case, they are reversible to a certain extent, but it depends on the medium used. Here, the retouchings were done with dry pastel, which contains only very small amounts of binder and therefore doesn’t adhere very well to the paper - it’s best not to touch it with your fingers, as it will smudge everywhere. Moreover, the retouchings, at least in this case, were only done on the mounting material, meaning the retouchings could be completely removed if the mounting was also removed. That would be a risky process, but it’s not impossible.
@@leaconservation thank you so much for answering! I really appreciate it!