That trick using the power steering and a short extension is pretty cool! I haven't seen that one in all my years of building trucks, wrenching, ASE or working in shops! Learn something new every day! lol. I know those hub bearing assemblies can really be a beer to get off of badly salt corroded and rusted trucks. I've had to use a puller before and get straight up native with a long handled sludge to were your changing the shape of it haha. A good wide wheel clean up of the knuckle and some anti seize on the new wheel bearing hub assembly inside flange of the knuckle will Make it easier for the next guy down the road! Some gloss black spray paint on the knuckle to keep it looking factory fresh and prevent rust! I like to replace backing plates! Especially when they start getting crusty and rusty, or they've gotten tweaked and bent up. It makes them look a lot more visually appealing with a nice clean straight fresh backing plate., they are cheap to, $30-$40 at any local parts place is cheap price of mind to replacing a bent up and rusty backing plate. I know some guys like to just remove them and throw the away and that's fine to, but they do help engineering wise with air flow. If the engineers put them on then there's a reason for them! Rember the engineers are 'know all gods' and masters of design (end sarcasm) Removing them and throwing them away on mud trucks , rock crawlers, or anything that they are going to cause debris, mud, snow, ice and rocks to get caught or stuck in there it's a good idea to delete the backing plates for off-road only. That catch can looks really nice! What kind did you previously have? I know there's a lot of different styles and levels of quality catch cans. That vibrant one looks nice! With 4 ports what's the best setup? To have one or two from the tappet cover and one or two from the top valve cover? So it spreads the venting out and Balances the venting out I suppose? Whats the best way to make the AN lines and fittings. I've never played with them before. Our local Napa store here in grand junction CO and it's a big big Napa warehouse, had a whole wall of AN alumn fittings in all Sorts of ano colored, red, black, and blue, purple. I really wanna dress up some stuff on my '02 under the hood and make a turbo oil feed line, and it would be really cool to make power steering lines for the steering gear and ditch the stock rubber hard lines. Heater lines is another one. I guess I need to research a little more and watch a 'how to' tutorial and go see everything they have on the wall at Napa and the speed shop here in town and get an idea. It can't be that hard right? Just expensive like everything else! Haha. I'm kinda in the same boat as you, my trucks lucky to get 5,000 miles a year out on it, the rest the time it's in the garage. I've had it 9 yrs and only have put exactly 30k on it. And I bet I've changed the oil 15 times heh. One time being at the shop at work, I did an oil service and ran 12qts of bulk 15-40 thru it with a fresh filter of course, let it run for 5-10 mins, and dumped it. Drained it out and changed the filter again and filed with the a good synth 15-40 I like to run. Gave it a good 'oil flush' try and get any and all Of that lingering black sooty dirty oil that's hangs around in the nooks and crannies and corners of the internal oil gallies of the block and in the head and oil pump cavity itself, and bottom of the oil pan itself, there's quite a bit that stays behind when you drop the oil plug, and just mixes with the fresh oil you put in to refill. No good! Ya it's minimal, but it's not a 100% fresh fresh oil change! Letting it drip drain helps but a flush and dump is better! Every little bit helps! 6 qts 15-40 bulk and 6 quarts atf is a good concoction for a super clean engine! ATF cleans really really good! It will remove any varnish internally, or any sludge build up, and will soften hard valve seals. One other trick I have found is to park on a bit of a slanted hill or driveway when draining the oil pan. Park nose uphill so it all runs to the lowest part of the drain pan and towards the drain hole. I know some Might say and it seems like a waste of 2.5 gallons of fresh bulk 15-40 and a new filter, especially when some people can't afford to even change their oil.., but where at a huge gravel pit with lots of CAT machinery and yellow iron machinery, it has a huge bulk 15-40 oil tank lol, all that yellow iron uses 15-40, I even have an endless supply of FASS CAT brand filters for the fass fuel system and and oil filters! lol and a 10k gallon red diesel fuel farm (shhhh!) the perks of being in charge 😂 That shifter setup is a really neat setup! You deff put some thought into to, it almost looks like at first glance that it's still a manual trans with the shifter boot still in place. I don't know if I would go from nv5600 to auto. I've had one auto, my '06 mega cab 24v and I'll never go back, after having to spend $9500 on a stage 5+ full billet trans, I didn't think of doing a FMVB, I considered g56 swaping it but was talked out of it by the guys at the shop and some friends. I love my nv5600 in my '02 HO. There countless people out there that would kill to have a nv5600 or any manual. What did you do with your nv5600? I'm sure you were able to get good money out of it hopefully. They are getting really scarce and hard to find. I see compete 'brand new' non remans selling for $9800+ There several internal parts that are no longer mfg anymore and are discontinued! So they can be hard to source until another mfg like TCS or the like picks it up. I don't go around doing burn outs or anything. I've never even done one with this truck heh. Maybe if I was 16 yea old again. You should go over that 'wire tuck'and how you moved the ECM to the firewall. That looks neat and clean. Where do you get the door panel 'arm rest' replacements? Or you saying you'll have to recover the door panel fabric where's it's worn? The vent lines you got coming out of your stock OE valve cover, did you drill and tap the holes or how did you do that? Thats looks like a good idea to do in the mean time until I buy a billet valve cover that have the vents for a catch can. Please let me know about the valve cover vents! I wanna do that for sure. Lemme know if you drilled and taped the holes or how you did that along with some of the other things, the ECM and wire 'tuck' procedure, what you did exactly, maybe make a short vid on that! You're the first and only one I've seen do such a thing, and a few other things you've done! I'd love to show you my truck and some things I've done!
That trick using the power steering and a short extension is pretty cool! I haven't seen that one in all my years of building trucks, wrenching, ASE or working in shops! Learn something new every day! lol. I know those hub bearing assemblies can really be a beer to get off of badly salt corroded and rusted trucks. I've had to use a puller before and get straight up native with a long handled sludge to were your changing the shape of it haha.
A good wide wheel clean up of the knuckle and some anti seize on the new wheel bearing hub assembly inside flange of the knuckle will
Make it easier for the next guy down the road! Some gloss black spray paint on the knuckle to keep it looking factory fresh and prevent rust! I like to replace backing plates! Especially when they start getting crusty and rusty, or they've gotten tweaked and bent up. It makes them look a lot more visually appealing with a nice clean straight fresh backing plate., they are cheap to, $30-$40 at any local parts place is cheap price of mind to replacing a bent up and rusty backing plate. I know some guys like to just remove them and throw the away and that's fine to, but they do help engineering wise with air flow. If the engineers put them on then there's a reason for them! Rember the engineers are 'know all gods' and masters of design (end sarcasm)
Removing them and throwing them away on mud trucks , rock crawlers, or anything that they are going to cause debris, mud, snow, ice and rocks to get caught or stuck in there it's a good idea to delete the backing plates for off-road only.
That catch can looks really nice! What kind did you previously have? I know there's a lot of different styles and levels of quality catch cans. That vibrant one looks nice! With 4 ports what's the best setup? To have one or two from the tappet cover and one or two from the top valve cover?
So it spreads the venting out and Balances the venting out I suppose? Whats the best way to make the AN lines and fittings. I've never played with them before. Our local Napa store here in grand junction CO and it's a big big Napa warehouse, had a whole wall of AN alumn fittings in all
Sorts of ano colored, red, black, and blue, purple.
I really wanna dress up some stuff on my '02 under the hood and make a turbo oil feed line, and it would be really cool to make power steering lines for the steering gear and ditch the stock rubber hard lines. Heater lines is another one.
I guess I need to research a little more and watch a 'how to' tutorial and go see everything they have on the wall at Napa and the speed shop here in town and get an idea.
It can't be that hard right? Just expensive like everything else! Haha.
I'm kinda in the same boat as you, my trucks lucky to get 5,000 miles a year out on it, the rest the time it's in the garage. I've had it 9 yrs and only have put exactly 30k on it. And I bet I've changed the oil 15 times heh. One time being at the shop at work, I did an oil service and ran 12qts of bulk 15-40 thru it with a fresh filter of course, let it run for 5-10 mins, and dumped it. Drained it out and changed the filter again and filed with the a good synth 15-40 I like to run. Gave it a good 'oil flush' try and get any and all
Of that lingering black sooty dirty oil that's hangs around in the nooks and crannies and corners of the internal oil gallies of the block and in the head and oil pump cavity itself, and bottom of the oil pan itself, there's quite a bit that stays behind when you drop the oil plug, and just mixes with the fresh oil you put in to refill. No good! Ya it's minimal, but it's not a 100% fresh fresh oil change! Letting it drip drain helps but a flush and dump is better! Every little bit helps! 6 qts 15-40 bulk and 6 quarts atf is a good concoction for a super clean engine! ATF cleans really really good! It will remove any varnish internally, or any sludge build up, and will soften hard valve seals. One other trick I have found is to park on a bit of a slanted hill or driveway when draining the oil pan. Park nose uphill so it all runs to the lowest part of the drain pan and towards the drain hole. I know some Might say and it seems like a waste of 2.5 gallons of fresh bulk 15-40 and a new filter, especially when some people can't afford to even change their oil.., but where at a huge gravel pit with lots of CAT machinery and yellow iron machinery, it has a huge bulk 15-40 oil tank lol, all that yellow iron uses 15-40, I even have an endless supply of FASS CAT brand filters for the fass fuel system and and oil filters! lol and a 10k gallon red diesel fuel farm (shhhh!) the perks of being in charge 😂
That shifter setup is a really neat setup! You deff put some thought into to, it almost looks like at first glance that it's still a manual trans with the shifter boot still in place. I don't know if I would go from nv5600 to auto. I've had one auto, my '06 mega cab 24v and I'll never go back, after having to spend $9500 on a stage 5+ full billet trans, I didn't think of doing a FMVB, I considered g56 swaping it but was talked out of it by the guys at the shop and some friends. I love my nv5600 in my '02 HO. There countless people out there that would kill to have a nv5600 or any manual. What did you do with your nv5600? I'm sure you were able to get good money out of it hopefully. They are getting really scarce and hard to find. I see compete 'brand new' non remans selling for $9800+
There several internal parts that are no longer mfg anymore and are discontinued! So they can be hard to source until another mfg like TCS or the like picks it up.
I don't go around doing burn outs or anything. I've never even done one with this truck heh. Maybe if I was 16 yea old again.
You should go over that 'wire tuck'and how you moved the ECM to the firewall. That looks neat and clean. Where do you get the door panel 'arm rest' replacements? Or you saying you'll have to recover the door panel fabric where's it's worn?
The vent lines you got coming out of your stock OE valve cover, did you drill and tap the holes or how did you do that? Thats looks like a good idea to do in the mean time until I buy a billet valve cover that have the vents for a catch can. Please let me know about the valve cover vents! I wanna do that for sure. Lemme know if you drilled and taped the holes or how you did that along with some of the other things, the ECM and wire 'tuck' procedure, what you did exactly, maybe make a short vid on that! You're the first and only one I've seen do such a thing, and a few other things you've done! I'd love to show you my truck and some things I've done!
What’s your fuel and air set up?
6x13s and a 467.7