WHAT OIL PAINTING SURFACE SHOULD YOU USE | How to Prepare Painting Panels
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 25 ก.ค. 2024
- What oil painting surface should you use, and how do you prepare it? In this video I'm talking about ACM (aluminum composite panels or Dibond), why it's the best surface you should be using, and how to prepare painting panels made out of this material.
As promised, here's more info on the Lead Alkyd Ground I used from Rublev: www.naturalpigments.com/lead-...
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Thank you for this!!! I’m so excited to try these as a new method.
How did you hang those ACM panels? Thank you.
My guess is she used the command strips that she applies when she places on the metal sheet for her easel.
Great info! Thank you.
This video is perfect timing for me. I've been looking for alternatives to the stretched linen canvas. I've recently tried wood; both birch and MDF, but I didn't know about ACM. I will start looking for a local supplier and give it a try.
That makes me so happy! Thank you for saying so, Eric. I hope you really love it, and you can always apply linen to it if you'd prefer it to a custom ground. :) It's truly a remarkable surface.
Love it! I want to try now.
You should! :D Let me know how it goes!
Hi, Great video! Can you provide the brand and specifications of the ACM you are using? You mentioned DiBond, but that has a lot of variation in coating and thickness. I also notice the name Omega-Bond on the film you peel from the panel in this video. Thanks.
Hi thank you very much for this video 🙏 I was just wondering if you could tell me the difference between the ACM panels and anodised aluminium panel which I’ve seen some Oil painters use what is the difference and which is better I’m getting quite confused with all the different materials that are available
I take 4mm thick solid clear transparent polycarbonate sheet (lexan), then using electric sander thoroughly rough up one side, then apply 4 coats of acrylic gesso, then one coat of oil primer, and then oil painting. Please try this too, compare it with your ACM, and give your expert advice. Which would be better likely after few hundred years? Polycarbonate is 200 times stronger than glass, and dozens of times stronger than acrylic sheet. Does not dent or break. Even if you hit backside of 4mm thick polycarbonate with hammer, there is no dent in front of painting! I have such painting on polycarbonate of last 10 years, absolutely like new. No warp, or problem with painting. Damaging 4mm thick polycarbonate is very difficult, but damaging 4mm thick ACM is easy.
I have painted only one painting on ACM and I primed it pretty much just like you did. I didn't know that they were so easy to cut, though. I will take it into account for the remaining panels I have. :)
I'm so glad! Yes, I have friends who have their sign supply stores cut them, or use power tools, but with them being *so* easy to cut with an x-acto knife it's so hardy!! I usually have the sign supply shop cut big panels for me just to save time, but when I just want to have a cache of ACM I can cut down to size as I need it, it's so handy. I'm glad this was helpful! :D
When applying larger areas of primer, I use a "weeny roller" or "mini roller" using a foam or regular short hair nap roller head. You can get great spread of coverage with little or no mess, and also it is easy to spread the paint thinly and uniformly over the smooth surface. Using a 4" nap, you can leave the nap inside the can, (do not attempt this using a foam roller head) and this makes clean up so very easy. The naps are cheap so if you like you can just throw them away. Then go back and brush out any stipple roller marks using a large soft hair brush.
This is a fantastically useful video, I've been wanting to start using these panels and the info you share is incredible helpful. Thank you! Question, Why is it necessary to sand the enamel off? I understand you need the tooth for the ground to stick, but would the enamel coating not be a good base surface for applying paint directly? Also, looks like someone has a fluffy white cat / dog ;)
Chelsea, most hardware and craft stores sell rolls of paper that are perfect for covering surfaces. I bought a roll for around $10-$15 and it has lasted me years. I've seen some artists attach a spool at the end of their work surface, similar to the patient beds in a clinic with the paper barrier. I get several projects done on the paper and then dispose when it's not longer needed. I'm using a heavy brown paper I got at the hardware store that has something like 300 feet by 36 inches.
Good idea! I could certainly use this for my work surface as is pretty clear here. 😂 I'll have to try this out. Thank you for the suggestion!
how do you fix some hanging system behind them (or other panels ) ? thanks :D
Hi Chelsea! Can you apply Rublev Lead Alkyd Ground to a Oil Primed Centurion panel? Thanks! I may post this on bootcamp as well.
indeed chelsea,i could use it too on my future project after my season 1video in my channel...i already used it wood panel boatd so easily to used and less workload...
**Max E.C. art...
You are super awesome! I've been painting for about 24 years and though I know everything you talk about I love the way you explain it. 🤗🤗😁
Thank you so much, Tiffany! I find it's so helpful even to hear me repeat it to myself, weirdly enough. I think it helps it to sink in even deeper. :D
KEY POINT: Great video BTW...when sanding place the ACM on stiff plywood or table to support it to ovoid bending of the ACM when sanding it. That's why you took too much off, only the edges of the sandpaper were in contact with the ACM, not the whole sanding surface.
I tried stretched canvas when I started with oils and soon found that the canvasses I could afford were not really good enough. Rigid supports appealed straight away so that 's where I have gone.
I have heard great things about ACM but, at least where I live, it's not really affordable. The only way I could even dream of affording it is by buying huge sheets in bulk- and an xacto knife isn't really much use there. It remains something that I aspire to painting on. For now. I intend to buy a few small panels to try at some point.
In the meantime I've opted for mdf. I buy 2 boxes of 30 mdf panels at a time, seal them completely with PVA and then prime them. It works well so far. I am hopeful that fully sealing the mdf (why is already treated to make its surface neutral though I don't know how much I trust that claim) should stop any issues with acidity or rot.
My primer is an oil based primer that I created myself with a household stain-cover primer and marble dust (I thoroughly researched this and it should meet conservators' approval). Although sometimes I use acrylic gesso if I am in a rush.
Fortunately, I don't have to worry about the customer getting a quality product as I am not currently producing paintings to sell, but rather to improve. I have sold a few despite this but I don't think I'm ready to take the leap into full time for some time yet.
Reading that back makes it sound a bit negative. I didn't mean it to sound that way, I have found a solution that suits me for the moment and wanted to share. :)
Not at all! I'm glad you have found rigid supports really helpful. On Wednesday I'll be sharing a video of mounting linen on ACM -- you can use the same method to mount on MDF and down the line if you ever want to upgrade the support you could remove the linen from the original support and remount it on something like ACM. :)
Also, though, i do highly recommend getting the huge sheet and cutting it down! You'll be set on panels for a very long time. :D
@@ChelseaLang The video inspired me to look again at getting ACM and I found that several stockists that I had thought had minimum order sizes beyond what was reasonable actually don't. Or rather they do, but only for the Fire Retardant version of DiBond! I should have looked closer! Anyway, it seems I can get pre-cut panels in a reasonable number. It's still far more expensive than MDF but more affordable than I had hoped.
Alas, I have just spent a small fortune on other painting supplies so I won't be buying them any time soon but they're there and attainable. I will buy them as soon as I am able, though I will probably have to reserve them for paintings I intend to sell or show.
I wouldn't have found these without today's video, so thank you very much, Chelsea!
sadly in my area the many sign supply stores have high prices, prob from the covid effect, a 4x8 acm is well over $200-300 now
I think the oil on top of the Lead Paint is to keep the paint from being exposed to air in the gap. Pour it off into a cup. Use the paint. Pour it back in on top when finished then seal it up. Not necessary to mix into the paint. Either way, it should separate back out when storing the paint. Might save some mess, though.
What thickness do you get?
For small panels I always get the 3mm sheets, but I have used the 6mm for big panels (3' on the longest side or larger).
@@ChelseaLang ty vm!
Where to buy ACM?
amazon or home depot.
The only issue is theyre actually expensive and limited sizes
How about ABS panels? Have any artists here tried those? Here is an interesting take on surfaces, including ACH aluminum panels, from this TH-camr ( th-cam.com/video/h2u8VmtC-UM/w-d-xo.html ). Let me know what you think, Chelsea or anyone. Thanks for the conversation, as it is an important issue, including matters of cost, archival, easy-to-work-with material, etc.
Couple of queries....How do these panels compare environmentally to canvas, linen and board? Surely, the production of the aluminium and the plastic are things we artists should be taking great care to consider in this day and age?
What is the future for art restoration and conservators, if there is nothing to restore?
Should we, as individual creative artists, be responsible for the next 100; 200; or 500 years? Is it our responsibility to the buyer; or is it arrogance on our part to want our works to last in perpetuity? Perhaps our responsibility is to the here and now? Do we want our names linked in perpetuity to products or processes that have, or do, or can, damage our environs? How will future generations view our works from this standpoint?
Is plastic paint better or worse for the future of the world, or is the trade off equal to that of oil (and associated thinners and mediums) and other traditional paints?
I do not know the answers to any of these questions, but I do think we, as artists, should start asking them, discussing them and thinking very seriously about them.
PS. Do you have a reason for using a round brush end to stir your lead white ground, instead of a traditionally recommended flat stirrer?
you cannot possibly stress yourself in any capacity for the environmental effects of your painting surfaces. unless you're literally dumping gallons of paint into the local river or cutting down a forest, its virtually harmless on your part.
@@safir2241 Multiplied by how many artists in the world? Also the production methods of the said materials?
It needs to become second nature to every individual to consider how they impact daily on their surrounds, then mentally calculate to times by roughly 8 billion....
@@payntpot7623 it needs to, but it wont. us who care about our environment must eventually force our worst polluters to change
Yeah, that Dibond is $400 for 7.5 feet x 3,5 feet. So everything else is cheap.