You made it look so easy! I'm gonna give this a go, my layout is supposed to represent east Sussex in 1943 so I'd like everything to be a bit grubby! I've experimented with weathering chalks, but this looks much easier and less messy! I have an old E2 & Terrier both painted black and re-numbered to sunshine lettering that I've been experimenting on. Although repainting the Terrier has made it very jolty, I think I got paint somewhere I shouldn't have >.
It was simply a case of resting the live rails on the coal tender as this has pickups and no moving parts on the wheels. The notched part of the wheels holds the rail so you're hands free to do the clean-up. If you've not got a coal tender you could always rest it on the wheels gently.
Excellent video, will definitely have a go at doing some Rolling Stock first, perhaps some open wagons. Many thanks for the inspiration. Kind regards. John.
Here's a thing -- track weathering. Humbrol should introduce a new line in electrically conductive weathering material that can be applied to bright steel track to make it look more realistic. Real rail sides always rust, and real rail tops will dull down in a matter of days when not run over, so you can keep your main lines bright and your seldom-used sidings appropriately rusty.
universalsailor Add iron oxide to your paint mix, test it on a few bits of track first, till you get the quantity correct and it will be conductive. FE203/4 and some Cu0. Which isnt just matching a rust coating - it is RUST lol. 203 is rust, 204 is dark rust, Cu0 is copper - all 3 are conductive, so great care should be made not to overspill to create a short of course. And if you wanted your main lines to look even more realistic, add in a higher quantity of aluminium powder, as the trains run over it, it will create the exact same as the real rails, only the places where the wheels contact the rail will become silver and shiny, the rest will look rusted. And yes humbrol should mix them.
universalsailor just paint the rail sides a rust metal, the sleepers wood or concrete, leave the top since wheels wouldve cleaned the tracks anyway (irl)
These videos are awesome and i agree it does make the engines look better. However the irony of course is that NO engine on the UK mainlines would ever have been allowed out dirty. Drivers being proud, the companies being proud and the engines being steam - they got steam cleaned all the time, and there was always someone cleaning and touching up their paintwork lol. It was only when they introduced electric / diesel did the older steam engines end up neglected.
+36c Studios Even the A4s accumulated grime over the course of a run. I've seen photos of those lovely silver-grey A4s where the panels are clearly outlined with soot.
There are a few videos on you tube lasting just under an hour featuring steam locos in the early 1960s, most of which were pretty grimy. As has already been said, only the express trains were kept in a polished condition.
You should be able to use enamel varnish over weathering powders, but make sure to test first. it will also depend on what type of pigment fixer you are using?
just wondered what brushes u were using and how u dont seem to have any over spill or very little mess when I have finished tbe powders seem to have got everywere ! many thanks
Hi. Really Useful tutorial. However when i was using the Matt varnish it left a white finish on my model which doesn't look good. How can i prevent this and what should i do to remove it?
how did you guys get the locomotive to work upside down as im wetheing my locos with powders find that even though used thinners they still some there your technuque look better
I used the spray on my coaches and found it glazed up the windows on the coach. Is there a way to get it off the windows and prevent it happening again?
Take a look at the Sam's Trains channel. He often posts servicing videos where he connects straight to the motors or DCC chip to power them. It does usually involve removing the body of the loco though, so not quite sure what they did in this video.
What you don’t tell customers is that the Humbrol acrylic varnish Matt spray is an awful product because it leaves a grey fog residue left on your model because of the matting agent inside ! ! I’ve now ruined my midland 4F 😡🤬🤬
You made it look so easy! I'm gonna give this a go, my layout is supposed to represent east Sussex in 1943 so I'd like everything to be a bit grubby! I've experimented with weathering chalks, but this looks much easier and less messy! I have an old E2 & Terrier both painted black and re-numbered to sunshine lettering that I've been experimenting on. Although repainting the Terrier has made it very jolty, I think I got paint somewhere I shouldn't have >.
It was simply a case of resting the live rails on the coal tender as this has pickups and no moving parts on the wheels. The notched part of the wheels holds the rail so you're hands free to do the clean-up. If you've not got a coal tender you could always rest it on the wheels gently.
We were using Humbrol Coloro brushes, this is a relatively soft brush which reduces the risk of powder overspill/splatter.
Very interesting effect on a good looking loco. I have got to give this a try Great video
Great video. Thanks Jon and Humbrol.
Excellent video, will definitely have a go at doing some Rolling Stock first, perhaps some open wagons.
Many thanks for the inspiration.
Kind regards. John.
Here's a thing -- track weathering. Humbrol should introduce a new line in electrically conductive weathering material that can be applied to bright steel track to make it look more realistic. Real rail sides always rust, and real rail tops will dull down in a matter of days when not run over, so you can keep your main lines bright and your seldom-used sidings appropriately rusty.
universalsailor Add iron oxide to your paint mix, test it on a few bits of track first, till you get the quantity correct and it will be conductive. FE203/4 and some Cu0. Which isnt just matching a rust coating - it is RUST lol. 203 is rust, 204 is dark rust, Cu0 is copper - all 3 are conductive, so great care should be made not to overspill to create a short of course.
And if you wanted your main lines to look even more realistic, add in a higher quantity of aluminium powder, as the trains run over it, it will create the exact same as the real rails, only the places where the wheels contact the rail will become silver and shiny, the rest will look rusted.
And yes humbrol should mix them.
universalsailor just paint the rail sides a rust metal, the sleepers wood or concrete, leave the top since wheels wouldve cleaned the tracks anyway (irl)
buy steel track and a humidifier for your layout
humbrolis No.1 in weathering.
We'll add it to the plan. The Airfix Team did a Weathered build in this month’s Club magazine.
Very nice.
Another way is to use a PP3 battery, it's just the right size to fit across the wheels.
Great video BTW!
Excellent! what a difference! think ill try doing some rolling stock before i tackle my loco's though lol
great explanation !
These videos are awesome and i agree it does make the engines look better.
However the irony of course is that NO engine on the UK mainlines would ever have been allowed out dirty. Drivers being proud, the companies being proud and the engines being steam - they got steam cleaned all the time, and there was always someone cleaning and touching up their paintwork lol.
It was only when they introduced electric / diesel did the older steam engines end up neglected.
+36c Studios Even the A4s accumulated grime over the course of a run. I've seen photos of those lovely silver-grey A4s where the panels are clearly outlined with soot.
CK Wunch youve popped up in a few weathering videos and you clearly have no idea what you're talking about......
You need to look at some pictures mate. Those locos were filthy, only the prime express trains weren't
There are a few videos on you tube lasting just under an hour featuring steam locos in the early 1960s, most of which were pretty grimy. As has already been said, only the express trains were kept in a polished condition.
You should be able to use enamel varnish over weathering powders, but make sure to test first. it will also depend on what type of pigment fixer you are using?
Yes, but you still need to take extra care not to get any powder on the contact areas.
Unfortunately it was lost during filming.
just wondered what brushes u were using and how u dont seem to have any over spill or very little mess when I have finished tbe powders seem to have got everywere !
many thanks
Yes it can, but please take extra care when applying Weathering Powder and any Varnish to your locomotive.
Thanks for sharing
Can you advise which powders/colours you're using.
What is the back ground music I Love it
Does the varnish work on airfix weathering powders
I would really appreciate it if you would show us how to weather the airfix Ford Fiesta WRC.
Could someone please tell me how to run the loco upside-down
Hello i have seen a 9 volt battery on h.o touching the wheels .
Hi. Really Useful tutorial. However when i was using the Matt varnish it left a white finish on my model which doesn't look good. How can i prevent this and what should i do to remove it?
Where can I find the varnish for it
If it has a gloss finish then you will need to matt it down first.
how did you guys get the locomotive to work upside down as im wetheing my locos with powders find that even though used thinners they still some there your technuque look better
Can't help but notice she doesn't have a front buffer
Can you use Humbrol Matt enamel spray varnish over weathering powders or does it have to be acrylic spray varnish?
Does the application of the varnish spray change the colour of the weathering powders? Ie take away the "dusty ness".
How long should you wait for the varnish to dry
Hi,
Zac Skak posed a question 2 months ago, could you respond please....... which weathering powders are you using in this tutorial?
Thanks.
martinallen6 Google "Humbrol Weathering Powder". There are only 8 types. The first one used in the video is "rust".
I used the spray on my coaches and found it glazed up the windows on the coach. Is there a way to get it off the windows and prevent it happening again?
Two years later did you ever find out?
@@Lamo679. Unfortunately no one replied to my comment.
How will I do this if the loco has a pristine finish?
sorry novice here great video but how do you run your engine upside down? thanks
reakingringpiece
I’d like to know that too.
Take a look at the Sam's Trains channel. He often posts servicing videos where he connects straight to the motors or DCC chip to power them. It does usually involve removing the body of the loco though, so not quite sure what they did in this video.
How do you run it upside down
Callum Nicolson Thats the australian model for illustration only.
+CK Wunch I realise im quite late to reply but you deserve a medal for your comment here XD *literally crying*
I have seen a 9 volt battery on the wheels. On h.o. scale
What brush are you using ?
one of the front buffers fell off.
What were the powders used for this demo?
Hi dos hornby put finish on all loco or just black once ?
What you don’t tell customers is that the Humbrol acrylic varnish Matt spray is an awful product because it leaves a grey fog residue left on your model because of the matting agent inside ! ! I’ve now ruined my midland 4F 😡🤬🤬
WOE-tuh
Matt varnish on pigments? Thx totally destroyed my model that I´d spent 20+ hours on... wonderful. Dont take his advice.
Søren Kepler u took the risk boi
Where can I get the spray sealer From?
Could someone please tell me how to run a loco upside-down.
Hello i have seen a 9 volt battery touching the wheels on h.o scale.
Hello i have seen a 9 volt battery on the wheels on h.o