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How to Test the Charging System on a Honda CBR 600 RR | Partzilla.com
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 7 ส.ค. 2016
- Diagnose charging system problems on your CBR600 and then get the parts: bit.ly/CBR-charging-system
Learn how to test the charging system on a Honda CBR 600RR motorcycle. We’ll test the battery, the regulator rectifier, and the stator.
Need a battery tester? Find one here: www.partzilla.com/catalog/aft...
Get a multimeter: www.partzilla.com/product/aft...
Read how to do this job step by step: www.partzilla.com/blog/honda/...
VIDEO HIGHLIGHTS:
Remove the seat - 0:34
Battery voltage test - 0:43
Test the regulator rectifier - 7:43
Test the stator - 8:35
Honda CBR 600 RR parts here: www.partzilla.com/parts/search...
Talk to us:
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In the video we’re working with a 2008 Honda CBR600RR, but you will have similar steps for your Honda motorcycle. If you’re not sure whether these steps apply to your motorcycle, leave a comment and we’ll get back to you.
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Your instructional videos you provide are very easy to understand. It feels like I'm listening to an instructor at a Mechanics School. Thanks for the great videos for the masses of D.I.Y.'ers!
You are welcome!
All the videos this guy makes are great! I'm a mechanical engineer and even though I know what I'm doing i like to double check. He really explains it all well.
I would have moved that connector so the positive battery cover fitted properly though.
Thanks Richard. My OCD did eventually take over and I moved the wire.
Thank you very much I ride a 2006 CBR600RR. I had a good idea of what to do but you explained it much better. Ride safe everyone.
By far the best TH-cam video I've came across for assistance with my motorcycle
thank you for the cbr videos
just got myself an 08 cbr600rr
these things are bulletproof
simple no fancy electronics
There's plenty of electronics on it.
I like all these videos from you on my honda cbr. Simple, clear, and hints along the way.
Thanks for the compliment, MrNursein! Glad you're finding the videos helpful and our style effective. See you around!
Partzilla team, John Thank you for all your posted videos I've learned a lot from you guys, now I am confident to repair most of my bike problems. Once again Thank you
We love getting notes like this, Mohamed! We do what we do so we can help people like you learn to repair their own machines. Why pay for labor when you can do it yourself?? Awesome to hear that our videos have helped you become a better mechanic. As long as you keep watching, we'll keep churning out the videos....! See you around, Mohamed!
@@PartzillaParts I agree and most of the time this do not diagnose the problem fully and will try to get you to buy expensive parts such as a new ecu when it could be an $0.18 part such as a zener diode on ignition switch. Dealer tried getting me to buy a new one after diagnosing which they could not due fully to them not having a good functioning computer to test with. Was the difference between $500 plus and 5.00 and some know how and the $500 wouldn't have fixed my problem in the first place!
Thanks so much for posting this diagnostics info... I just spent $800 getting my valves checked because it was too involved for my taste. But battery keeps dying! Thanks again!
great video that was well explained , thanks a bunch !!
Elo guys thank u for leaving this great video its really gona help us allot. We are trying to build up a bike shop but cannot get any help any greetings god bless from Paul south africa
Super useful video! Thank you
for viewers: these basic tests and numbers are valid for almost all bikes. If you have a defective regulator/rectifier, you need to check the stator, as the two are inter-connected and one failure may cause the other. Also, check all connectors in the harness, they might burn out if the R/R has failed.
Lastly, see if you can replace the OEM R/R with a better after market one, MOSFET type.
Excellent information. Thanks Ray!
@@stickyourface66rectifier
super helpfull. thank you for a great video
Thank you!! this was very helpful!!
Thanks for sharing.
really helpful, thanks
Is it necessary to pull off those green ground wires to perform these tests?
I understand you are using the specific diode setting to test the rectifier, but if a voltmeter does not have this capability, could you test the diodes using ohms/resistance instead?
thanks for this video
Thanks John!
Hi John, just watched your video about the charging system. I've got a 2004 honda fireblade and I'm now on my 6th stator, my bike is completely standard apart from the end can, I don't have heating grips etc, I'm at the end of my tether with this bike, it's a great bike apart from it eats stators between 9 and 14 months, I hope you don't mind me asking but I'm giving up on this bike, many thanks regards John mac.. 🤔👍
Thank you. Hope you are still doing your thing sir
Sir can you please advice I have honda cb 400 aero nc 23 it's start in single self but after 5 min current drop and bike did start till it get completely cool
If all these tests are done and i get the same Pera meters then you, could the battery be the problem.
Idle volts sits at 13.6 does not pick up at all when reves pick up
Getting the same meters on the rectifier and stator as well. Im hopelessly lost
So I have a 08 1000rr an it's got new stator an rectifier in it but battery still dying not charging were do I look next
i took my cbr600rr into a shop to have fluids changed, and just a once over to make sure im ready for next riding season. It over heated 4 miles from the shop. Put a new battery in it and got it home. Started it up today and as it got up to temp. it died out and the fan never came on ? what am i looking at, and do i risk taking it back to a shop that overlooked whatever this issue is?
the rectifier coverts my ac current from stator..to dc current to the batt.. so when i plug up one side (functioning stator) i can test the black and red diodes on other side and they should have 14v DC right? cuz when i test my reg/rec on output side i get 0volts DC is that my chargong problem?
thanks! great video :3
Really appreciate your guidance in every tutorial. Can you start a playlist for Honda honet 250 bikes. I know it's kind of old ones but if you could really appreciate. Thanks
I'll see if we can find one
Thanks for the info!
Thanks
one of the diodes on my rectifier said .3 something another was just.4 and the third was .456. Did the stator all diodes were 1 VAC...the third was .65. Guess i found my issue hahaha, thanks for the awesome video
Hello there is 13.7 or so is it still good charging system
Can you do this on a Ninja 300
"Philips..." Aren't all screws on this bike JIS? I just recently learned about that, but getting the right screwdrivers apparently helps significantly. Since they're not designed to cause the driver to slip out of the screw, like Philips.
Thanks for these videos. I was just have a bad experience working on my cbr. This helps a lot.
You're welcome, Stepheon. Great to hear we were able to help!
What if I change the stator and the regulator and the bike still turns off when I take the battery off?! Like the bike runs only on the battery, once I take it off, the bike shuts down
At 10:20, he says he reconnected to ground after he pulled it off the bracket.
I don’t know what the heck he means. Can I just connect the probe to the negative terminal of the battery and do the same test?
My 2012 cbr 250 is not staying charged , just replaced battery and stator I think it’s the rectifier but not sure any help would be great
When I test the regulator/rectifier, I'm getting .499, .494, and .501, and when I check the stator while the bike is running, I'm getting around 13.70-14 VAC. Does this mean that there's something wrong with my stator?
Hello there.. I'm have a question..my cbr600rr2008 temperature issue go up and down like crazy(95- 150- 95 -210- 00-95F.. I did it replace radiator, coolant and temperature sensor ..🙄 but still the same... little help please.. thanks..
I get 60 VAC with the stator connected and 9 VAC with the stator connected to the rectifier. New battery new stator new rectifier and I cant get DC voltage above 13.4 volts. Is there supposed to be vac while connected to the regulator?
You happend to have a video testing the starter motor while on the bike ?
We don't right now. We will add it to the suggestion list!
Hi. Thank you for this video. I am facing an issue with an '07 Suzuki DL 1000. It starts fine and VDC measures 14 at the battery. when the engine is revved, the volts drop instead of rising. The same was seen on AC check from incoming phase to phase across all 3 phases, reading 12AC and dropping when revved. Any ideas what could be wrong? rare possibility that the mechanic could have placed the magnets in wrongly / polarity reverse or that some loose magnets are causing that ?? Thanks
Sounds like the stator is going bad.
Have a 2003 Honda cbr600rr and have replaced the stator and rectifier and battery and still won’t charge any ideas
On ac voltage on regulator:
Not sure if doing it right, I hooked it up as per the video and getting zero reading on all three. Is that even possible?
I have a 2005 cbr, and every time I ride the bike it loses power. I don’t use it for three days and battery dead. I was wondering if these steps also follow for my 2005 cbr, or only 2008 cbr
So I have a cbr600rr 1997 that has no spark I have no clue what to do I'm think about replacing the rectifier. The web said that the stator is what creates the spark but I dont know I bought the bike for 200 dollars and I want to get it running.
Everything I did matched your video voltage readings except the AC voltage check with the engine running. Checking the stator I had 12.7 13.3 and 12.8. meaning I'd need to change the stator soon since I didn't hit the 15V-15.5V, correct?
Sounds like it's not throwing enough voltage.
Would the battery tester give a good reading on a battery that is at good health but currently discharged?
are short, 5-minute, rides enough to keep the battery topped off?
Hi John,
i have a 07' CBR600RR with an issue where the bike turns off while riding. I check the battery and the R/R is fine. The issue i have is i ran the test at 10:40 and its showing a reading of less than 12V AC on each of the diodes on the stator. So i bought a new OEM stator from partzilla and put it in the bike and the readings are still below 12V AC. Could you please help? I have an 09' CBR600RR thats perfectly running fine and i did the same test and its good at 14V+ AC. I do not know what to do from here... Thank you in advance.
-Waya
what if your stator ohm test reads 000.? as in u get no reading?
Thanks for the video. I get lost in minute 10:25. Do you connect the multimeter ground cable (black) to the ground cable of the stator, then start the bike & then connect the positive to any of the 3 stator connections to see if there is >14V, right? I am asking because it is not easy where you connect the ground cable. Thanks in advance
It's a ground. Connect it to any ground...
hi partszilla i have a 2009 cbr 600 rr and my turn signal lights and horn do not work. i think i blew a fuse since im sure i shorted it, where is the fusebox for turn signal and horn located. Thanks!
it should be in the black box under the middle left fairing. Check the fuses in there, you will most likely find the fried fuse.
hello partzilla team i have a problem on temperature reading on the odo that the temp go up an down 6-9 degrees in one second and i changed the sensor so any electrical prob could do this i have cbr600rr 2004
It will jump around a bit. It should read a fairly constant reading once it's hot. Depending on outside temp, rpms and air flow.
Hey John, i have this same 08 CBR 600rr and my bike hasn't been turning on. It makes a loud buzzing noise from around the battery when i try to start the bike, nothing else. I was then able to jump start the bike and it started. But then when i checked the voltage on the bike today and tried to start it, it did not start despite being at 12.54V. Im confused on what the issue may be. Thank you
Still sounds like the battery. Sometimes it will show enough voltage but once it's under load, the voltage will drop. Do a load test to check overall battery health.
if i have to replace my stator. do i have to replace my rectifier as well. i hear you have to replace both at the same time just in case you don't get up the one you didn't not replace
Just test the rectifier. If it's good, then it doesn't need replacing. Some people choose to replace them at the same time, but it's a personal preference.
I was riding home from work the other night and my lights were dimming on me in and out. the pace of the lights dimming was a little faster when I hit the freeway. Had my battery checked and the battery was still good. What would cause this? Thanks
Possibly the rectifier or stator, I would start by testing those.
My rectifier passed the reverse bias tests as I got OL on my multimeter for both positive and negative wires. But when I did the forward bias test with the positive lead of the multimeter probed into the 3 yellow wires, I got 0.45 ohm for each one of them. But when I did the forward bias test with the negative lead of the multimeter probed into the 3 yellow wires, two of the yellow wires showed 0.1 ohm each and one yellow wire shows 0.09 ohm. Is the rectifier still ok or is it malfunctioning already?
That is all within range. Are you having charging issues?
So you’re saying if voltage drops while starting the bike, The rectifier is working correctly?
Sorry, I need help, please.
I have a sbr cbr 600rr 2012 and I bore the radiator part of the middle would know if it has solution. Or I would have to replace ...
Not sure I understand what you're saying...there is a hole in the middle of your radiator?
Don't know if you're still checking these or not. 2003 600rr, swapped old rec for the 2005 with the heat sheild. New bat. Autocraft. At idle reads 13.56. Got leds that are off. That too low of a charge?
At idle, that should be fine.
I am having a problem with my cbr 1000 it truns on but as soon as I get on it and set it up right it turns off and the tip sensor is already bypassed
if we use jump start to start the engine and we still keep the bad battery. do the bike cut off , stalls @ low RPM ? is that normal? do we still need good battery even when engine is running ?
You should be able to disconnect the battery while the bike is running and it will still run. If it's stalling at low idle, try adjusting your idle up a little.
What if the battery is charging but the yellow cables that comes out of the stator are getting hot? Can someone tell me ?
Hey John, i have a weird issue with my blinker lights. When i turn on the right blinker, it will go on but with a delay. It takes a second or maybe 2 seconds before it starts blinking. Sometimes it blinks once, then a delay and after the delay it will start blinking normally. What could this be?(btw: i have aftermarket LED blinkers on the front, and built-in blinkers in the rear LED brake light)
This is common on a lot of units. LEDs draw less power and sometimes the relays don't know what to do with it. Try searching for an LED relay...I've never used them, but I heard it's an option.
Mr. Tally, what should the AMP reading on a new YTZ10s be?
The YTZ10s is rated at 8.6amps. So new, that's where it should be.
l have a no spark issue on a 2005 yamaha r1. The rectifier regulator and stator checks out fine.
Solenoid...Fuse...if those are good, test the wires all the way to the plugs and see where the power is dropping off. I'm going to guess solenoid.
Ok I'm having issues on my 08 cbr, it has a new battery, I replaced the rectifier bc I thought it was over heating , well now I rode the bike 30 mins hard n now the bike wont start acts like the battery is dead now this is when it's hot, the bikes stator resistance was .9 all across, would my stator be bad the bike has only 3k miles
Hey did you get this fixed? I'm having a similiar problem with my 07 CBR.
partzilla please help me from Colombia a greeting iva walking on the bike normally and suddenly began to fail the electrical system did not turn on, immediately I went to the mechanic and told me to buy the battery also rviso the stator of the motorcycle and said the voltage failed the ignition and the voltage descended my question is change the stator or that you think it is the motorcycle when I leave it quiet it works normally but after going out for a walk in it more than 10 kilometers starts to fail and goes off that is thanks.
From what I can tell, it's something in your charging system. Battery, voltage rectifier or stator. Test these components.
Hi. I am a bit confused as the workshop manual doesn't mention to attach the tester probe to the chassis earth when doing a voltage test, only between stater end connecter on each field windings at the plug terminal?.
It needs to be grounded. Chassis, neg terminal, etc.
+Partzilla ok thank you, you do good instructions videos
Mine cbr600 f4i 2001 gives 12.6v on idle. And 14.4v on 5k rpm. Some bikes are not supposed to charge on idle.
Hi there I have the exact bike and it's not charging I might do this check and see what I come up with,cheers
While doing the ac test on my stator.. my bike shut off and then my fuel pump would no longer prime. Is this just due to my battery having low life or did I just cause my relay on my fuel pump To blow?
Load test your battery to be safe, but that sounds like a relay or fuse blew.
Hi I have a Yamaha wr125r I had charging problems so I changed the stator and the regulator when I rev the bike the battery discharges when I don’t rev up the charge goes up 😩
Test each component, something isn't allowing voltage increase with higher RPMS.
Hi John,
I’ve been having problems with a 2003 honda cbr600rr charging system.
Diode test “forward bias test” gives me around .48 between each pair.
Stator windings are not shorted to ground. I also get about .5 ohms between them.
When I start the engine, I get 10.8 AC Volts from each winding at idle but does go up as I rev the engine.
Lastly I only get 13.1 volts DC at battery terminals.
Thanks In advance, hope you can help.
At idle, when you test the stator wires, you should be getting right around 15 volts. If you are only getting 10.8, there is a good chance your stator is going bad.
Partzilla It “passed” all the diode/continuity test. It was driving me crazy. Did not want to change parts by guessing.
Thanks a Lot, for sharing your knowledge!
Hi! Another great video! Thanks! I am having a problem with my 2006 cbr1000rr. I got a new battery and I charged in a slow charge at night and when I check in the morning is 13 or more volts! Starts amazingly fast and no problems. But If I ride more than 15 minutes and stop, when I tried to start again the battery is almost dead! I used your guidance in this video but I am still in doubt. I'd like to check each one of the parts is bad, before buying it. I am sure is not the battery. And I am praying to be the external one (rectifier). When I did the last test, checking with the engine on, all tree diodes shows nothing. It was supposed to be 15 right? So my rectifier is bad? Can you help me on it please? Thanks in advance and keep your excellent job!!!
Test your stator to confirm, but if the diodes aren't working, it's likely your rectifier.
@@PartzillaParts Yes the diode is not working. I ordered already a new one and I gonna let you know when I install it. Thanks!
Does weak battery causes bike to die?
I suspect my stator is not working properly?!?I was out in the boonies got me all worried my bike almost didn't want to start. I jump it and it start right right up. What the cost of service for checking the stator and replacement?
Battery checked: weak
Julian, sounds like you just need a new battery. If your stator was going bad, once you jump the bike, it wouldn't run properly. Start with a fresh battery and see how it goes. If you still have issues, you can start running tests on your charging system. Always start with the simplest answer first.
it can be more than just your batt..i got new batt..stator putting correct AC volts and batt still not being charged..after my tender gets batt above 12v it will start fine..and run fine..the second you turn it off it wont crank back..and lately after iv been riding for 15 min it will die while running..and then shows 8-11volts on battery..im guessing not enough juice to run fuel pump
Hello Partzilla..i just subscribe to your chanel i like the way that you explain everything...so i have an Honda CBR 600F4 and i have a problem that my motorcycle after running for a little while it power off by itself..could you please give me some advice how to fix it...thanks
he just explained what to do and check for in the video
What should be the voltage of the regulator rectifier when the engine is at 5,000 rpm? For my CBR 1000RR the Haynes manual says the voltage should be 15V but my output is only 13V. I couldn't understand how you're hooking up the meter for the diode test on the rectifier - will watch again.
Great video, thanks
At 5k it should be a little more than 13v. Test the stator and rectifier.
@@PartzillaParts thanks, I'm going to give it another shot tomorrow. Although the output voltage is lower than the Hayne Manual says it's keeping the battery charged now. The chinese stator was trash
Hello! I did the test that you suggested. Start the bike to test the stator by connecting the multimeter red cable, put it on VAC 20V and connect the black cable to the ground. I get a reading from the 3 yellow cables of 7Volts. On your video you get almost 15V. Does it mean that the stator is bad?
Are you testing the rectifier or the stator? Either way, that is low voltage. Might need to be replaced
@@PartzillaParts i was testing the stator. I also checked the stator between the 3 yellows when the engine is on n when i rev it i get 60 VAC at 5k rpm. I will test again the stator running with one yellow n the ground connection of the battery in DC.
Hello! Following my previous question. I disconnected the Rectifier / Regulator and the Stator cables.
To test the stator i do the following, get one of the yellow cables coming from the stator and connect the red led from the multimeter, then take the black led from the multimeter and connect it to the ground in the battery. Then i put the multimeter in VAC. I get a read of 8 volts when the bike is cold at 1.5k rpm / 4 volts when the bike is warm at 1k rpm. This is not even close to what you get on your video in minute 10:25 which is 15 volts VAC.
I also did the resistance check and ground check on the stator and it was correct.
So i guess the stator is not in the best shape as I bought the bike as second hand with 33k km so maybe it is time to change the stator. I guess i can open the stator and see what the status is and check if there are any burn parts.
Anyhow what it is blowing my mind is that when i run the bike with everything connected i see the battery charging at 14.5V with DC. The battery goes flat the day after i drive it for 60km.
Thanks for all your help and time!
Hello John
I changed the battery original one and my problem was fixed. may thanks friend . you rock
Awesome news, Mohamed!! Glad we were able to get you back up and running.
hi!i have some problem with my rectifier and cant understand it working good or not! on yamaha fz6s show me 12.5v on stator !it good or not?
If you follow the steps in the video, you will be able to tell what's causing the issue. The process is the same for most metric motorcycle charging systems. It will help narrow down whether the stator or rectifier is giving you trouble.
I'm a big fan of your videos and I have a Honda CBR F4i in my F1 light be blinking to the point that my bike is running High
02 954rr, gives 14.5 volts testing battery at idle. Did your tests, question is on the stator AC voltage test I only get 10 volts coming out not 15v, which jumps to 20 or so revving it up. I know the R/R is bad because it reads 0.9/0.9/3.4... Do you think that 10 volt reading means the stator is on its way out soon even though it seems to be recharging the system fine still? Also would a faulty R/R overcharge the battery leading to destroying the battery and cause the bike to not start ever? I believe that is what's happening here as the battery reads 13.5 volts right after shutting off the bike, new battery btw. 14k miles on the bike... Your video is awesome too thanks!
Start with the R/R. Did you ohm test the stator? And yes, a faulty R/R will eventually kill a battery over time. If your battery is new, you should be ok once you change the out the R/R.
Partzilla thanks, I did ohm test the stator and it came out fine. So I figure hopefully just the R/R will get me going again.
Just a question. When I charge my battery I have 2 options. 6v and 12v charge. Which one should I use for my bike. Also can I charge my battery while it's still under the seat with cables removed or should I take it completely out of my bike. Thank you
12v. You can leave it in the bike.
@@PartzillaParts thank you!
Really helpful video. Thanks.
Just replaced my rectifier on my honda, as the lights were playing up and the bike died on me last week.
Seems to have worked, until it died again. Have put the battery on charge and will do this check with the wires at the weekend. Maybe I need either a new stator (hopefully not) or replace the battery.
Hello,
just wanna ask, is the Regulator Rectifier supposed to get hot? I recently took my bike to a mechanic to find a burning smell coming from the bike and he found the wires burning by the rectifier so he spliced the wires and did his own connection instead of using the plug and play connector. The bike would cut on and run but was just curious about the heat coming from the rectifier.
Hello Danny. Do you know why the wires were burning? They do get hot, but not so hot that you cant touch it.
Partzilla not sure, maybe something was giving it to much power
I got a brand new battery I replaced the stator and regulator 3 years ago and carbs clean all that my friend said it the stator would u guess that what it is I got a Honda cbr 600 f4 1999
Regulators like to go out on Hondas. If you do the tests, you can narrow it down.
My Haynes Service & Repair manual says that my Regulated Voltage Output must be 15.5v DC @ 5000 RPM. But when I test it, it stays at 14v even though I increase or decrease the RPM. What does this mean? (Honda CBR600RR 2004)
Test your stator and regulator individually.
Hey how you doing... I just bought my first bike... used and as expected has some problems...
One of them is the speedometer stays at zero when I ride.. now I don't know what to look for or what to test first .. if you can please help me out... I'll appreciate very much thank you in advance... btw... my bike is a 2008 Honda cbr 600rr...ty.
I would start with your Speedo sensor. #11 on the diagram.
www.partzilla.com/catalog/honda/motorcycle/2008/cbr600rr-a/crankcase
Partzilla ... thank you very much...
im having a similar issue, honda cbr 1000RR 2005, noticed that the battery wasnt charging, i got told around that the regulator/rectifier was a common problem for this model, after i order the part, i strip the faring off and i noticed that the plug between the stator and the regulator was all malted; some cables already cuted off and others were join together for the heat, well looks like im gonna have to order the stator as well, what would be the reason of the problem ? thank you
Could have been a malfunction with the regulator that torched the wires. Could have been just a short that melted it all together. Inspect the surrounding area and make sure nothing else is damaged.
@@PartzillaParts thank you for your help, lucky that nothing else was damaged, but i decided to change volaje regulator and stator, i just order the stator cover gasket and i will do everything by my self; im going change the battery as well, the battery was new ( only a month old ) but was a cheaper one ( 70 buks ) so i getting now a good battery, do i have to use a torque wrench to tight the stator cover or i should do it normal, i mean tight the screws around the cover by eye? sorry for my english
Hi, I have a cbr600f4i '03 and recently it has some charging issues. I replaced the battery and the rectifier, it was working fine for 2 days and then dead battery. I did the AC voltage test between phases and got 18v, when I plug the ground terminal to the battery it doesn't read anything. What do you think about this? Thank you
Have you tested your regulator?
Partzilla. I installed an aftermarket regulator and it worked fine for a couple of days. I haven't tested the new one. I tested the old one and passed.
Well, there is a disconnect somewhere. If you get 18v at the stator, where does that power drop out? Regulator? Battery? lines inbetween?
I took it to the shop and the problem was the new R/R. Now is working perfect.
There isn't a test for the regulator?
i have a 03 cbr 600rr .. put new bat. but now is half dead. it start normal but after i ride and stop and try to start up again , it wont like bat have no power.. i dont have any tester to see which i should changed. please help... i know now the i have to get a new BAT. but i want to see which 1 i should changed . SORRY I SAID A LOT WITHOUT TESTING IT
You have to test your stator and rectifier. It's not supplying enough power to run the bike so it's just killing your battery
Partzilla im going to buy a tester before i just start changing stuff.. Question.. Wht you thing about a mosfet for my R/R
how often do you need to change batteries
Change as needed. Battery health will vary by type of battery and health of your charging system. If your bike starts, then it's good.
I've had this issue for awhile on mine, dash lights go off and on while idling. While running it or reving it's fine. If I let it idle for a few mins it will die completely. I installed brand knew RM stator and rectifier at the same time, new connectors, made sure of clean wires, no corrosion, everything's tight. Not running any leds or jumping off. Also installed a lithium ion shorai racing battery same day also. But still been having this problem. What could it be? Something is killing my battery. Thanks for any advice
When you installed all the components, did you verify voltage by testing them? Worth a double check.
Partzilla yes I did. It said my battery was charging. I had 13.3 volts. Maybe a parasitic draw somewhere?
I meant, did you test the rectifier and stator independently.
hi, my battery is fully charged (shows about 12.35 volts) but when I connect it back onto my bike ( a GSXR 750 ) and try to start it the battery is making that clicking noise associated with a flat battery, not sure what to do or what to try and diagnose, any suggestions would be greatly appreciated :)
The battery could still be dead. You would need to load test it to confirm.
Partzilla thanks for your advice, sorry for the delay on coming back to you. kind regards from the UK
hello noticed that measuring AC voltage the connector was floating and not connected to the regulator. should it give the same value on AC when its conmected or not
It should give the same readings providing that the regulator rectifier has not been damaged. I test with it disconnected because of that possibility.
Partzilla when i measure ac voltage betwrrn stator wires when disconnected it gives around 18vac and something like 60vac when revving. but when i connect it to the regulator it gives more like 10vac in idle and drops down to 3vac when revving. the battery is 14.5vdc in idle and also when revving. i gues everything is ok?
Seems like it's charging normal. Are you having charging issues or just testing the system because you want to?
Partzilla had problems with charging system both regulator and battery were damaged. now it seems to work fine but had lots of time invested before i found the problems. both regulator and battery were not more than 1 year old. cbr 600f3 the regulator gets too hot
The regulator is a common problem with those bikes. When charging systems on the CBR get weird, it's usually the problem. Good to test all of it when there is an issue though.
Hello John
I have this problem on my motorcycle that I will be grateful if you'd answer, please.
First, my battery died on me so I replace it, with a new one.
Shortly after, my motorcycle died on me on the highway so I had to send it to my mechanic on a tow truck.
A few days later he informed that he had to swap the stator as he found it totally fried, with the new stator, on high RPM, it was only reaching 13,8 Vdc on the battery poles which is a bit low according to my knowledge.
Now the bike is haveing the same symptoms that I felt before the stator went bad for the first time so I decided to measure the components myself exactly as you explained in the above video and found that, there is no link between all three phases on the stator (1&2 ok 2&3 no and 3&1 no) in addition to that on the reg/rec side I'm getting 0.578, 0.578 and 0.436.
Is there a chance that the reg/rec is the route cause for the second stator failure?
I know that is a long story but please try to help.
Thanks in advance
Sounds like you are on the right track, Ian. You can do a diode test to confirm that one or more of the legs will show a short to ground. I would replace both this go around.
Many thanks
Hey John, I have a 98 Honda CBR900 RR and I am having similar problems with my bike not charging. I have bought a new reg/rectifier, stator from "CheapCycleParts.com" and battery from Autozone but it still dies. Also reason why I bought new parts is that the first rectifier burned out and drained my battery completely. Just last night I took another shot at it and jumped the bike and noticed some smoke from the rectifier. What could be the issue?
Hi Danny! Sometimes you need to be careful replacing parts trying to solve an issue. An existing problem on one part of a circuit can damage a brand new part somewhere else down the line. If you replaced the stator, regulator, and battery with OEM parts all at the same time and still had an issue, you need to check two major things. First make sure the grounding point near the Regulator is tight and no wires are broken. Look for a cluster of green wires grounded to the frame. Second, verify continuity point to point on each wire on the harness especially the positive and negative going from the regulator to the battery. Third, make sure you buy all your parts from Partzilla.com from now on. Ok, the last one is optional, but comes highly recommended ... :)
Thank you, I checked the wiring once again and found the problem. The connector from the stator to the wire harness started to burn and fuse two of the wires together. Guess that means it was over charging? But I also looked over everything else and it seems fine no exposed wiring and locked down tight all that is left to do is order a new stator from Partzilla.com :)