THE SECRET of the Old Masters of CARPENTRY | Woodworking Tricks and Tips for Beginners
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 22 ต.ค. 2022
- THE SECRET of the Old Masters of CARPENTRY | Woodworking Tricks and Tips for Beginners
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I realize a lot of people will comment negatively about such things as technic but I think the video is really about showing the potential for using dowels to make a simple 45 joint very strong. I enjoyed the video and the concept. Thank you Sir.
la tecnica es muy buena y queda hermoso , pero cometes un error , al poner cola en los tarugos o varillas, si observas cuando van entrando la cola queda afuera, por lo tanto no queda bien encolado ,la cola la debes poner en los agujeros y de esa manera al ir metiendo las varillas la van arrastrando a lo largo de todo el agujero y asi te queda todo encolado
I use this technique on my speaker boxes that need to be the strongest for very high power applications. It's the best, and easiest while saving money on no ugly metal fasteners. Plus reduces weight and shipping costs too!
Y es mucha mas bella que tornillos de metal tambien, y mas fuerte! Me encanta
I understand the concept of this video as many people do not have the sophisticated tools to achieve such an outcome. Thanks for an informative video. Perfect corner!
Very useful for me. I don't have many tools to use for my project, and have been struggling to find a joining solution for an angle. I'm very happy to know I can use a drill and bandsaw to achieve this.
Before closing the mitered ends together, I apply tape over the tops of the miter so that the two parts are held close together as I close the joint.
Appears to
Me this video was to help the viewers to conceptualize a process to strengthen mitered corners from the days of old, but not to give exacting details as to the process. Great job and easy to understand. Keep in the good work.
Dowels should have been run through a pair of vice grips first to groove them out for better glue retention instead of scraping it off at the beginning of the hole
I agree but the dowels are in tightly enough that they are not dependent on the glue to stay in.
Interesting how a "for beginners" video attracted so many experts willing to share their superior techniques. My bookcase needed a corner tightened. Now I know a better way.
Lol spot on 😄
I am sorry, this is video is borderline BS, and I am extremely noob.
If it's about the concept of miter joint with dowels, then the thumbnail alone is good enough to know what to do.
Anybody who wants to learn mitre joint with dowels from this video, will only be misled.
Video shows mitre cut with a pull saw, but doesn't show how the mitre is matched.
Any inexperienced woodworker will find out that their mitres aren’t aligning if they follow this.
Video shows glue is applied to the miter but doesn't show how they are held together with applied force. No master of woodcraft will ever glue their joint without ever reinforcing it.
Video shows finnish is applied yet mitre gaps aren't sealed with wood powder and glue.
This isn’t for beginners
Put glue into the holes & let it soak in for a couple of minutes before putting in the dowels !
That is surely a strong and beautiful mitre joint.
Thanks for watching 😉👍🙏
I think you should have the dowels a little further from the edge, just missing the inside . Use a sacrifice block clamped over where the drill exit holes will be to cut down on tear out.
Hello. Thanks for watching and leaving your comment. Be always welcome.
I thought I saw him use a block where the drill bit came out (4:20)
@@rosc2022 yeah, but holding it by hand didn't prevent any of the tear out, it needed to be clamped.
Good additional comment to an excellent video I was thinking the same thing.
Disagree on your suggestion for placement. Right through the middle of the 45 cut will make for the all-around strongest joint. If you are mostly worried about stress pushing the joint towards an obtuse angle then yes, your suggestion would be better. But you would be sacrificing strength in the other direction- it would weaken the joint for stresses pushing the joint towards an acute angle. Two pegs toward the edge and two toward the center would be best if strength of the joint was the primary concern
WOW! using a mitre cut block to angle your cuts! GENIUS!! TYTY!
Abgesehen von den stumpfen Sägen und den Ausrissen an den Bohrlöchern sehr schön! 😉
This is a nice video and good techniques - except it looks like a lot of glue got stripped away and didn’t make it into the hole. I think it’d be better to swab some glue into those holes with a toothpick or a straw before the dowel.
thanks for watching and leaving your comment 😉👍🙏🙏
Yeah - thought the same - that's what i would have done!
Nice tear out. Keep practicing.
Thanks for watching 😉👍🙏
I don't know but it looks like most all of the glue is being scraped off of the dowel, while pounding it in. I would have scraped veins in the part that will be in the wood ( not showing ) and have some of the glue stay in these scraped vein.
Wood glue is super strong usually the wood will break first before the glued joint
@@moistfart9569 And how does this apply to what I stated??? Of course the wood will break before the glue line but that is not in any way what I STATED. Read the comment before you reply!!!
I agree. I would have sanded the dowels a bit, just to create a little more room for glue. It does need a little body to gain strength.
@@rhandley1000 any more glue will be visible when sanding down since the purpose of joints like these is to give an illusion it is just wood and nothing else but all of you are clearly woodworking professionals
@@moistfart9569 That is an excellent point, which is why I save my sawdust amigo ;) And yes, I am a professional - Maple Creek Woodworking, Baroda, MI. Didn't know it was that obvious....
Sensacional! Gratidão 🌈🤗.
Nice video
Thanks 😉🙏
@@WillWoodDiywoodworking oke
I saw trimmer processing on the ceiling for the first time,
I could see the goodness of the indirect lighting. Have a nice day.
You should "size" all end grain prior to glue up. Apply a light coat and let it wick in for a few minutes. Then apply your glue for assembly.
@mwc8493:
Make your own video instead of criticizing!
Absolutely brilliant
work
Thanks for watching my friend 😉👍🙏
A trick I learned from a mentor of mine: sprinkle a little sand into the glue, just a couple grains per square inch, then push the two parts together. The sand acts like little grips and keeps the parts from sliding in the slippery glue.
Hey, that makes sense I'm using it today thank you. This will save me time because I nitpick every connection that way w my high demand boxes under the pressure 5k watts puts on them
That saw was as blunt as a cricket bat I could have ridden to London on it.
Magnífico trabalho Will!!!
Skil yang luar biasa,,, sukses selalu kawan👍
Hello. Terima kasih kerana menonton dan meninggalkan komen anda. Sentiasa dialu-alukan.
Th ❤❤u
An excellent informative video, thanks.
That is genius and an art!! Thanks for sharing.
Why no glue in the holes before driving in the dowels?
Beautiful work! Thank you.
Thank you for watching and leaving your comment 😉👍🙏
Great idea Ill keep that in the back of my mind for a futur build
Thank you for this good video😊
😉👍🙏
Gracias es correcto entiendo el mecanismo que el maestro explica excelente técnica acabado muy bien se ve formal y se aprecia lo bonito de ka madera, felicidades gracias por compartir sus videos mis respetos y admiración para los carpinteros, saludos bendiciones desde México,😊
I would never do this, but it was fun to watch.
Thanks for watching 😉👍🙏
That's awesome. Done with the most basic of tools!
Great video, the old methods are still the best!
Belíssimo trabalho, Will! 😃
Qual o nome dessa madeira? É muito bonita!!!
Abraços e se mantenha seguro aí com sua família! 🖖😊
Olá amigo. Angelim. Grande abraço e cuide-se. 😉👍🙏🙏
Loved this video!!! Beautiful wood as well, what type are the boards?
Boa dica meu amigo valeu ganhou mais um inscrito 👍🏻💯💯
😉👍🙏 valeu amigo, obrigado por assistir e deixar seu comentário
No way you actually cut that miter with the dull saw ! Joint does look nice when done however.
Too right. This whole thing is fake. He seriously eyeballed those dowel holes that came out perfectly aligned?
What on earth are you guys talking about?
as evidenced by the circular saw blade burn on the left half
Brilliant idea & some great tips in the comments too
😉👍🙏🙏
Very clever, thanks
Thanks for watching 😉👍🙏
Thank you very much
😉👍🙏🙏
Wenn sich "alte Meister" so angestellt hätten, wären ihre Meisterwerke heute noch nicht fertig ...
Fantastic, super 👍
Beautiful
This technique is useful when using plywood, use bamboo skewers, the glue makes the bamboo swell up creating a tougher joint
Excellent
Thanks for watching my friend 😉👍🙏
Vc é um mestre no serrote! parabéns 🏆🏆🏆🏆🏆
Valeu Carlinhos! Obrigado por assistir e deixar seu comentário 😉👍🙏
Splines are much easier and better looking to reinforce a miter joint. The slots for the splines can be easily and accurately cut on the table saw using a simple jig.
I'm curious if the strength of this method vs doing the same by butt joining them w/dowels is stronger. Certainly it's easier and less time consuming. I'm thinking of building a piece w/dowels and glue holding the drawer corners. Any feedback or suggestions appreciated
Didn't even have to clamp that miter joint... 😄
so for anyone trying to actually use this, here's some tips:
use a sharp saw. if you dont have one, leave a little bit of room and use a chisel to get to your line. dull saws will leave tearout at the fine edge of the miter.
DO NOT handsand the gluing surface of the miter cut. all you're doing is rounding edges that will produce gaps in the glue joint, and it will not flatten the surface (much more likely to dome the surface). use a rigid block to attach the sandpaper to (make sure it's truly flat, and be careful around the edges, dont roll over them), or better yet, use some type of straight, edged tool (chisel, plane - go with the grain rather than cutting across it).
clamp the sacrifice block at the exit of the drilled hole, rather than holding it by hand. this will reduce that awful tearout on the exit hole.
grooving the dowels can help get glue in the joint, but you can also apply a thin layer of glue to both surfaces (inside of the hole, and the dowel). woodglue doesn't like gaps, so i'd go for minimally grooved or not at all, personally. putting glue on both glued surfaces should always be done when woodworking, as wood can absorb some of the glue and starve the joint. rather than slathering on one piece, a nice thin layer on both is much better.
a prettier way to strengthen the joint using dowels is to hide them. you measure and drill the holes on both gluing surfaces of the miter without going thru the wood (so drill the holes in each piece of wood individually, making sure not to go thru the exterior facing surface, rather than gluing them together and then drilling thru the whole corner). glue and hammer in the dowels to one piece, then apply glue to the dowels sticking out, as well as the miter-cut faces, and gently tap the other piece of wood onto the dowels until both pieces of wood are flush. strengthens the joint, and is totally invisible when the piece is done, tho requires more precision and measuring.
Very nice ✌️
😉👍🙏
Parabéns!!
Nice joint. Too bad on the tear out. Try clamping a sacrificial block at tearout side.
Thanks for watching 😉👍🙏
Fantastic!
Good idea
What timber is he using?
I have got some of this and local timber sellers could not identify it
What type of wood were you using? I have some and cannot figure out what it is
Good info.
Which one stronger wood dowels or bamboo dowels ?
I’ve never seen this used in old furniture or building. What old craftsmen do this? I know I will try this.
Nobody does it, and nobody has probably ever done that apart from people on youtube who try to sell it as a genuine skillful woodworking technique. In past, they would have used dovetails or maybe nails or reinforcing splines, in present it would be either the three previous or some hidden dowels, biscuits, dominos, screws, box joints/finger joints or some hardware which allows for disassembly. Given it looks ugly as hell, there is no reason to use this type of joint other than a lack of skill or laziness.
@@janbernad4729 I think it looks very nice. Many other people do also. It is a fairly inexpensive way to make a strong joint. It is stronger than most of these other joints. Dominos, LOL. $1500 dollars for a Festool Domino tool. This joint would take a fraction of the time compared to either of the mortice and tenon or finger joint, and they make jigs for it that you can use a regular drill with. And it requires considerable less skill than others which is an advantage. As far as laziness goes, one might say if you are short on time, this joint would be helpful. So your estimation of it is lacking and due to your own ignorance and subjective sense of ugly.
@@adrianalanbennett
"I think it looks very nice. Many other people do also."
This is just as subjective claim.
"It is a fairly inexpensive way to make a strong joint. It is stronger than most of these other joints."
Can you provide any arguments for this? If you look at common practice, if done properly, any of the joints I mentioned is strong enough for most applications.
"Dominos, LOL. $1500 dollars for a Festool Domino tool."
I know that it is expensive and provides not much advantage over dowels, I only included it just to have the list more complete.
"This joint would take a fraction of the time compared to either of the mortice and tenon or finger joint, and they make jigs for it that you can use a regular drill with."
Hidden dowels take even less time and they equivalent tools.
"And it requires considerable less skill than others which is an advantage."
Same goes for the hidden dowels.
"As far as laziness goes, one might say if you are short on time, this joint would be helpful."
If you're short on time, why not use the hidden dowels? If the time is your significant concern, the very dubious aesthetics of this joint are hardly worth the extra time and effort.
"So your estimation of it is lacking and due to your own ignorance and subjective sense of ugly."
I believe that ignorant would be to hold this joint as something genuinely useful and worth the effort, while there are many other solutions which are objectively better. As for the subjective sense of ugly, I can't claim that noone would ever find the supposed look of this joint ugly, but I can claim that majority of people would prefer some of the other options which i have listed, if they could choose. However, we can objectively judge the craftsmanship involved in making this joint, which does influence the actual look just as much as the construction of the join. Objectively speaking, the work isn't very good - there are gaps along the miter and the dowels, there is also quite a significant amount of tear out at the same places, which is something that could be in this case quite easily avoided with proper work procedures.
Man that lil saw was trying its best
Pretty, what can this be used for?
Should I be drilling the hole slightly larger than the dowl so it doesn't scrape the glue off as I hammer it in?
Master, your handsaw is dull, sharp it.
How very rude keyboard warrior, get a life.
‘Sharpen’, not ‘sharp’.
@@johnstarkie9948ooh watch out the grammar nazi is out. There their they're now, your gonna be aite kid
Tell us you've never handsawn seasoned and quartersawn oak without telling us 🤦♂️
Also, why not just run the pieces through a table saw set to 45°?
Agree that the dowels should have been grooved: all the glue just lost the reason for using it. The grooves would have held the glue in place much more strongly. Nevertheless, I appreciate the excellent video. Kudos.
Why didn't you spread some glue in the holes before pounding in the dowels? You can see how dry the sides of the dowels are when they emerge on the other side.
Surprised the glue joint held hammering in the dowels. I might have sanded the dowels a little.
Look at all the tear out on that would be unacceptable for me.
I can't cut 45 with a sharp saw.
Don't like the tear out. But I like the design, tho!!
I think you should have driven in two dowells in each joint from opposite directions.
I don't know why I feel this way but I do.
I also can't beleive you hand cut 45's in hardwood 2 by's freehand with no vice. //ji
This looks like a time waste compared to dove tail methods. Not to mention a jig to clamp and drill before glue would save time. This looks cool and would strengthen a corner. I do not believe I have seen any old furniture doing this.
Pretty sure your saw is dull.
I don't think the saw is necessarily dull. Could be wrong but that wood looked like hickory. Hickory is one of the hardest and most dense woods to work with.
👍
😉👍🙏🙏
Weakens the joint more so it turns out. & PF gave them all hell.
The idea is good but the application could be better.
Thanks for watching 😉👍🙏
Starts cut on camera will dull ass saw. Finishes off camera with mitre saw. Hand tool wood working y’all!
I don't think an old "master" would have tear out like that. Could have just clamped wood on the other side before drilling...
All you people claiming the hand saw is dull without actually knowing, ever think maybe this is a fine tooth cut saw? Can't really tell the TPI but a fine tooth cut saw will take a lot longer to complete the cut. Also, am I the only one who thinks he is working with hickory? If you have not ever worked with hickory, I challenge you to pickup a scrap piece and make a cut or notch it with your chisel. Then you'll understand.
😱😱
Thanks for watching my friend 😉👍🙏
My question is, did you clamp the miter joint and let it dry?
Oh my god the blowout from that drill. Which hack job then remains entirely visible in the finished product. Why are you giving tips to beginners??
Looks good, but why not just do a dovetail for that level of effort?
Because the article is titled, For beginners. It’s just a quick and simple alternative to make a 45 very strong. Most beginners have no idea how to cut or layout dovetails. It’s to help beginners get into wood working , to build their confidence then they can move on to the more complex joinery. At least that’s my take on it, for what it’s worth.
@@hawkenman.549 fair enough. No doubt it is a strong joint. Although my first project outside of framing and screwing plywood together was a dovetail box many years ago!
@@Skiiiiiifreeeeeee I read you loud and clear. Thank you my brother.
Very tidy work
😉👍🙏🙏
Glue the holes not the dowels!
Pro tip….buy a chop saw….
Whats the angle please?
thanks for watching and leaving your comment 😉👍🙏🙏
The bored holes HAVE to be soaked with glue, otherwise this is a nothing video. Dowels coated into coated holes makes perfect sense.
thanks for watching and leaving your comment 😉👍🙏🙏
Hand saw seems not working properly.
*Incluso con la economía fluctuante, estoy muy emocionado de haber ganado $45,000 en mi inversión de $10,000 cada 10 días con la Sra. María Caldera.*
Obrigado por assistir e deixar seu comentário 😉👍🙏
Finish nails would be a lot less obvious and less work while also being stronger. Just saying.
The hand saw "work"....very bad burn you left on that wood stud. Lol.
So, you won't use a powered miter saw because you're old school or something but an orbital electric sander is OK? After watching this video I am convinced that buying a Festool Domino is absolutely the right thing to do.
You can add some more glue 🙄😂
Nice..thanks for NO chat.!
Interesting, but dovetails any day
thanks for watching and leaving your comment 😉👍🙏🙏
🔔🔔🔔🎶🎶🎶
извините что это за дерево?
Drilling on the 45, and well executed. Nice work and thanks for sharing!
two dowels is enuf.