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I realize a lot of people will comment negatively about such things as technic but I think the video is really about showing the potential for using dowels to make a simple 45 joint very strong. I enjoyed the video and the concept. Thank you Sir.
la tecnica es muy buena y queda hermoso , pero cometes un error , al poner cola en los tarugos o varillas, si observas cuando van entrando la cola queda afuera, por lo tanto no queda bien encolado ,la cola la debes poner en los agujeros y de esa manera al ir metiendo las varillas la van arrastrando a lo largo de todo el agujero y asi te queda todo encolado
I use this technique on my speaker boxes that need to be the strongest for very high power applications. It's the best, and easiest while saving money on no ugly metal fasteners. Plus reduces weight and shipping costs too!
I understand the concept of this video as many people do not have the sophisticated tools to achieve such an outcome. Thanks for an informative video. Perfect corner!
Actually a 45° glued joint is effectively end-grain to end-grain. So very strong anyway. If you're that worried you should probably be using something else such as dovetail.
A trick I learned from a mentor of mine: sprinkle a little sand into the glue, just a couple grains per square inch, then push the two parts together. The sand acts like little grips and keeps the parts from sliding in the slippery glue.
Hey, that makes sense I'm using it today thank you. This will save me time because I nitpick every connection that way w my high demand boxes under the pressure 5k watts puts on them
Appears to Me this video was to help the viewers to conceptualize a process to strengthen mitered corners from the days of old, but not to give exacting details as to the process. Great job and easy to understand. Keep in the good work.
Dowels should have been run through a pair of vice grips first to groove them out for better glue retention instead of scraping it off at the beginning of the hole
Both good comments; OP , and David. I'm certainly no where near an expert at this stuff, but have used dowels too many times to count. I always consider that fact that 90% of the glue I apply, it just scrapped off when driving the dowel in, I try adding sawdust etc , and on the other hand, wonder how much glue does that joint really need. 😄 I like the idea of 'running the dowel' through vise grips, presumably to give the dowel a spline effect where glue can be stored while driving dowel in.
I personally would have sanded those dowels a bit to make them less tight going in. Need to know that as soon as glue is applied, the wood starts to swell.
Interesting how a "for beginners" video attracted so many experts willing to share their superior techniques. My bookcase needed a corner tightened. Now I know a better way.
I am sorry, this is video is borderline BS, and I am extremely noob. If it's about the concept of miter joint with dowels, then the thumbnail alone is good enough to know what to do. Anybody who wants to learn mitre joint with dowels from this video, will only be misled. Video shows mitre cut with a pull saw, but doesn't show how the mitre is matched. Any inexperienced woodworker will find out that their mitres aren’t aligning if they follow this. Video shows glue is applied to the miter but doesn't show how they are held together with applied force. No master of woodcraft will ever glue their joint without ever reinforcing it. Video shows finnish is applied yet mitre gaps aren't sealed with wood powder and glue.
Very useful for me. I don't have many tools to use for my project, and have been struggling to find a joining solution for an angle. I'm very happy to know I can use a drill and bandsaw to achieve this.
Gracias es correcto entiendo el mecanismo que el maestro explica excelente técnica acabado muy bien se ve formal y se aprecia lo bonito de ka madera, felicidades gracias por compartir sus videos mis respetos y admiración para los carpinteros, saludos bendiciones desde México,😊
so for anyone trying to actually use this, here's some tips: use a sharp saw. if you dont have one, leave a little bit of room and use a chisel to get to your line. dull saws will leave tearout at the fine edge of the miter. DO NOT handsand the gluing surface of the miter cut. all you're doing is rounding edges that will produce gaps in the glue joint, and it will not flatten the surface (much more likely to dome the surface). use a rigid block to attach the sandpaper to (make sure it's truly flat, and be careful around the edges, dont roll over them), or better yet, use some type of straight, edged tool (chisel, plane - go with the grain rather than cutting across it). clamp the sacrifice block at the exit of the drilled hole, rather than holding it by hand. this will reduce that awful tearout on the exit hole. grooving the dowels can help get glue in the joint, but you can also apply a thin layer of glue to both surfaces (inside of the hole, and the dowel). woodglue doesn't like gaps, so i'd go for minimally grooved or not at all, personally. putting glue on both glued surfaces should always be done when woodworking, as wood can absorb some of the glue and starve the joint. rather than slathering on one piece, a nice thin layer on both is much better. a prettier way to strengthen the joint using dowels is to hide them. you measure and drill the holes on both gluing surfaces of the miter without going thru the wood (so drill the holes in each piece of wood individually, making sure not to go thru the exterior facing surface, rather than gluing them together and then drilling thru the whole corner). glue and hammer in the dowels to one piece, then apply glue to the dowels sticking out, as well as the miter-cut faces, and gently tap the other piece of wood onto the dowels until both pieces of wood are flush. strengthens the joint, and is totally invisible when the piece is done, tho requires more precision and measuring.
haha, I bet he has every tool ever made, probably wants to appeal to those that have nothing to work with, which is probably useful to them. I like how he set that board at the long side of the miter, as a stop/guide for the saw, I wondered why he didn't clamp the block to the 'project' piece. Which circles back to the reason he probably skips using lots of cool tools and clamps. shrugs. 😄
I think you should have the dowels a little further from the edge, just missing the inside . Use a sacrifice block clamped over where the drill exit holes will be to cut down on tear out.
Agree that the dowels should have been grooved: all the glue just lost the reason for using it. The grooves would have held the glue in place much more strongly. Nevertheless, I appreciate the excellent video. Kudos.
In my limited experience of using dowels I do believe they are deceptively strong, especially in the type of application shown in this video - virtually bullet-proof.
I don't know but it looks like most all of the glue is being scraped off of the dowel, while pounding it in. I would have scraped veins in the part that will be in the wood ( not showing ) and have some of the glue stay in these scraped vein.
@@moistfart9569 And how does this apply to what I stated??? Of course the wood will break before the glue line but that is not in any way what I STATED. Read the comment before you reply!!!
@@rhandley1000 any more glue will be visible when sanding down since the purpose of joints like these is to give an illusion it is just wood and nothing else but all of you are clearly woodworking professionals
@@moistfart9569 That is an excellent point, which is why I save my sawdust amigo ;) And yes, I am a professional - Maple Creek Woodworking, Baroda, MI. Didn't know it was that obvious....
good content. could be edited to 60 seconds. use painters tape on the outside when glueing the miter - more accurate. use tape on inside edge to make glue cleanup easier
Splines are much easier and better looking to reinforce a miter joint. The slots for the splines can be easily and accurately cut on the table saw using a simple jig.
OK, but dowels add mechanical bond. I don’t know if Splines plus gluing area is stronger than dowels, which have less gluing area, but more mechanical strength.
This makes it stronger, but... as a woodworker beginner I would NOT glue a miter together like shown. Ideally you either have something like 90 degree clamps or lacking that have a board and with screws and more wood create a shell of some sort, so you can make sure it is 90 degree and stays that way. If you had a good standing drill, you can set it up to 45 degree and drill the holes before the glue up, that would be even better.
I love the old methods. The old masters wouldn't have left any tear-out. You might be able to avoid the tear-out by drilling in part of way from the side that the drill bit comes out of. Nice joint!
I'm curious if the strength of this method vs doing the same by butt joining them w/dowels is stronger. Certainly it's easier and less time consuming. I'm thinking of building a piece w/dowels and glue holding the drawer corners. Any feedback or suggestions appreciated
Dowel Max makes dowels ridiculously easy and accurate. I love using dowels because your work assembles and the clamps are just to provide pressure not to hold the whole piece together and square.
Is that mineral oil you use at the end? I am trying to figure out finishes for wood that I like to use. I tried Renaissance wax, but it smells like an automotive shop. I’ve also done shellac. That’s fine but a lot of work.
Nobody does it, and nobody has probably ever done that apart from people on youtube who try to sell it as a genuine skillful woodworking technique. In past, they would have used dovetails or maybe nails or reinforcing splines, in present it would be either the three previous or some hidden dowels, biscuits, dominos, screws, box joints/finger joints or some hardware which allows for disassembly. Given it looks ugly as hell, there is no reason to use this type of joint other than a lack of skill or laziness.
@@janbernad4729 I think it looks very nice. Many other people do also. It is a fairly inexpensive way to make a strong joint. It is stronger than most of these other joints. Dominos, LOL. $1500 dollars for a Festool Domino tool. This joint would take a fraction of the time compared to either of the mortice and tenon or finger joint, and they make jigs for it that you can use a regular drill with. And it requires considerable less skill than others which is an advantage. As far as laziness goes, one might say if you are short on time, this joint would be helpful. So your estimation of it is lacking and due to your own ignorance and subjective sense of ugly.
@@adrianalanbennett "I think it looks very nice. Many other people do also." This is just as subjective claim. "It is a fairly inexpensive way to make a strong joint. It is stronger than most of these other joints." Can you provide any arguments for this? If you look at common practice, if done properly, any of the joints I mentioned is strong enough for most applications. "Dominos, LOL. $1500 dollars for a Festool Domino tool." I know that it is expensive and provides not much advantage over dowels, I only included it just to have the list more complete. "This joint would take a fraction of the time compared to either of the mortice and tenon or finger joint, and they make jigs for it that you can use a regular drill with." Hidden dowels take even less time and they equivalent tools. "And it requires considerable less skill than others which is an advantage." Same goes for the hidden dowels. "As far as laziness goes, one might say if you are short on time, this joint would be helpful." If you're short on time, why not use the hidden dowels? If the time is your significant concern, the very dubious aesthetics of this joint are hardly worth the extra time and effort. "So your estimation of it is lacking and due to your own ignorance and subjective sense of ugly." I believe that ignorant would be to hold this joint as something genuinely useful and worth the effort, while there are many other solutions which are objectively better. As for the subjective sense of ugly, I can't claim that noone would ever find the supposed look of this joint ugly, but I can claim that majority of people would prefer some of the other options which i have listed, if they could choose. However, we can objectively judge the craftsmanship involved in making this joint, which does influence the actual look just as much as the construction of the join. Objectively speaking, the work isn't very good - there are gaps along the miter and the dowels, there is also quite a significant amount of tear out at the same places, which is something that could be in this case quite easily avoided with proper work procedures.
Question? You use what looks like could be Mahogany wood for the frame, unless it is unseen I can then understand but if you had a little waste why didn't you make your dowells from the same material so the white Pine or Fir dowell would blend?
Why didn't you spread some glue in the holes before pounding in the dowels? You can see how dry the sides of the dowels are when they emerge on the other side.
✅✅ Curso Marcenaria para Iniciantes em Casa: 100% Vídeos Aulas.
Com aulas divididas em módulos para facilitar seu aprendizado!
Descubra como Ganhar DINHEIRO em casa!
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😅'
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I realize a lot of people will comment negatively about such things as technic but I think the video is really about showing the potential for using dowels to make a simple 45 joint very strong. I enjoyed the video and the concept. Thank you Sir.
la tecnica es muy buena y queda hermoso , pero cometes un error , al poner cola en los tarugos o varillas, si observas cuando van entrando la cola queda afuera, por lo tanto no queda bien encolado ,la cola la debes poner en los agujeros y de esa manera al ir metiendo las varillas la van arrastrando a lo largo de todo el agujero y asi te queda todo encolado
I use this technique on my speaker boxes that need to be the strongest for very high power applications. It's the best, and easiest while saving money on no ugly metal fasteners. Plus reduces weight and shipping costs too!
Y es mucha mas bella que tornillos de metal tambien, y mas fuerte! Me encanta
I understand the concept of this video as many people do not have the sophisticated tools to achieve such an outcome. Thanks for an informative video. Perfect corner!
Actually a 45° glued joint is effectively end-grain to end-grain. So very strong anyway. If you're that worried you should probably be using something else such as dovetail.
A trick I learned from a mentor of mine: sprinkle a little sand into the glue, just a couple grains per square inch, then push the two parts together. The sand acts like little grips and keeps the parts from sliding in the slippery glue.
Hey, that makes sense I'm using it today thank you. This will save me time because I nitpick every connection that way w my high demand boxes under the pressure 5k watts puts on them
My shop teacher taught me that
Salt works too
How about some graphite?
Before closing the mitered ends together, I apply tape over the tops of the miter so that the two parts are held close together as I close the joint.
Appears to
Me this video was to help the viewers to conceptualize a process to strengthen mitered corners from the days of old, but not to give exacting details as to the process. Great job and easy to understand. Keep in the good work.
Dowels should have been run through a pair of vice grips first to groove them out for better glue retention instead of scraping it off at the beginning of the hole
I agree but the dowels are in tightly enough that they are not dependent on the glue to stay in.
Both good comments; OP , and David.
I'm certainly no where near an expert
at this stuff, but have used dowels
too many times to count. I always
consider that fact that 90% of the
glue I apply, it just scrapped off
when driving the dowel in, I try
adding sawdust etc , and on
the other hand, wonder how
much glue does that joint
really need. 😄
I like the idea of 'running the
dowel' through vise grips,
presumably to give the dowel
a spline effect where glue
can be stored while driving
dowel in.
Yeah grooves for glue would be the best, even the only functional option.
This is hardly master work!
I personally would have sanded those dowels a bit to make them less tight going in. Need to know that as soon as glue is applied, the wood starts to swell.
That is surely a strong and beautiful mitre joint.
Thanks for watching 😉👍🙏
Abgesehen von den stumpfen Sägen und den Ausrissen an den Bohrlöchern sehr schön! 😉
Interesting how a "for beginners" video attracted so many experts willing to share their superior techniques. My bookcase needed a corner tightened. Now I know a better way.
Lol spot on 😄
I am sorry, this is video is borderline BS, and I am extremely noob.
If it's about the concept of miter joint with dowels, then the thumbnail alone is good enough to know what to do.
Anybody who wants to learn mitre joint with dowels from this video, will only be misled.
Video shows mitre cut with a pull saw, but doesn't show how the mitre is matched.
Any inexperienced woodworker will find out that their mitres aren’t aligning if they follow this.
Video shows glue is applied to the miter but doesn't show how they are held together with applied force. No master of woodcraft will ever glue their joint without ever reinforcing it.
Video shows finnish is applied yet mitre gaps aren't sealed with wood powder and glue.
This isn’t for beginners
Very useful for me. I don't have many tools to use for my project, and have been struggling to find a joining solution for an angle. I'm very happy to know I can use a drill and bandsaw to achieve this.
Gracias es correcto entiendo el mecanismo que el maestro explica excelente técnica acabado muy bien se ve formal y se aprecia lo bonito de ka madera, felicidades gracias por compartir sus videos mis respetos y admiración para los carpinteros, saludos bendiciones desde México,😊
so for anyone trying to actually use this, here's some tips:
use a sharp saw. if you dont have one, leave a little bit of room and use a chisel to get to your line. dull saws will leave tearout at the fine edge of the miter.
DO NOT handsand the gluing surface of the miter cut. all you're doing is rounding edges that will produce gaps in the glue joint, and it will not flatten the surface (much more likely to dome the surface). use a rigid block to attach the sandpaper to (make sure it's truly flat, and be careful around the edges, dont roll over them), or better yet, use some type of straight, edged tool (chisel, plane - go with the grain rather than cutting across it).
clamp the sacrifice block at the exit of the drilled hole, rather than holding it by hand. this will reduce that awful tearout on the exit hole.
grooving the dowels can help get glue in the joint, but you can also apply a thin layer of glue to both surfaces (inside of the hole, and the dowel). woodglue doesn't like gaps, so i'd go for minimally grooved or not at all, personally. putting glue on both glued surfaces should always be done when woodworking, as wood can absorb some of the glue and starve the joint. rather than slathering on one piece, a nice thin layer on both is much better.
a prettier way to strengthen the joint using dowels is to hide them. you measure and drill the holes on both gluing surfaces of the miter without going thru the wood (so drill the holes in each piece of wood individually, making sure not to go thru the exterior facing surface, rather than gluing them together and then drilling thru the whole corner). glue and hammer in the dowels to one piece, then apply glue to the dowels sticking out, as well as the miter-cut faces, and gently tap the other piece of wood onto the dowels until both pieces of wood are flush. strengthens the joint, and is totally invisible when the piece is done, tho requires more precision and measuring.
That is genius and an art!! Thanks for sharing.
Skil yang luar biasa,,, sukses selalu kawan👍
Hello. Terima kasih kerana menonton dan meninggalkan komen anda. Sentiasa dialu-alukan.
Good to see hand tools used!~~
Thanks for watching and leaving your comment 😉👍🙏
Did the guy really just hand saw a miter... Twice... Then bust out an orbital sander?
haha, I bet he has every tool
ever made, probably wants to
appeal to those that have
nothing to work with, which
is probably useful to them.
I like how he set that board
at the long side of the miter,
as a stop/guide for the saw,
I wondered why he didn't clamp
the block to the 'project' piece.
Which circles back to the reason he
probably skips using lots of
cool tools and clamps. shrugs.
😄
Ahaha that stood out to me too. I guess it shows that nobody likes sanding 😂
Every one has a line, that’s his 😂
Great idea Ill keep that in the back of my mind for a futur build
Great video, the old methods are still the best!
I would never do this, but it was fun to watch.
Thanks for watching 😉👍🙏
Nice video
Thanks 😉🙏
@@WillWoodDiywoodworking oke
Put glue into the holes & let it soak in for a couple of minutes before putting in the dowels !
Absolutely brilliant
work
Thanks for watching my friend 😉👍🙏
Thank you very much
😉👍🙏🙏
I think you should have the dowels a little further from the edge, just missing the inside . Use a sacrifice block clamped over where the drill exit holes will be to cut down on tear out.
Yes agreed. Or pilot through the last bit and then drill back from the other side
Yes I noticed the chip out as well . A block on the backside would fix that from happening . But I do like the look of the dowels !! Good job
And does he really need FOUR?
@@jamespyacek2691 why NOT? His project.
45° holes and mitre, just what i was looking for... Great stuff. 👍
😉👍
Agree that the dowels should have been grooved: all the glue just lost the reason for using it. The grooves would have held the glue in place much more strongly. Nevertheless, I appreciate the excellent video. Kudos.
Thank you, I'm starting to get into woodworking. Your tips are helping me
Very clever, thanks
Thanks for watching 😉👍🙏
Thank you for this good video😊
😉👍🙏
You should "size" all end grain prior to glue up. Apply a light coat and let it wick in for a few minutes. Then apply your glue for assembly.
@mwc8493:
Make your own video instead of criticizing!
That's awesome. Done with the most basic of tools!
In my limited experience of using dowels I do believe they are deceptively strong, especially in the type of application shown in this video - virtually bullet-proof.
That saw was as blunt as a cricket bat I could have ridden to London on it.
Parabéns!!
Why no glue in the holes before driving in the dowels?
I don't know but it looks like most all of the glue is being scraped off of the dowel, while pounding it in. I would have scraped veins in the part that will be in the wood ( not showing ) and have some of the glue stay in these scraped vein.
Wood glue is super strong usually the wood will break first before the glued joint
@@moistfart9569 And how does this apply to what I stated??? Of course the wood will break before the glue line but that is not in any way what I STATED. Read the comment before you reply!!!
I agree. I would have sanded the dowels a bit, just to create a little more room for glue. It does need a little body to gain strength.
@@rhandley1000 any more glue will be visible when sanding down since the purpose of joints like these is to give an illusion it is just wood and nothing else but all of you are clearly woodworking professionals
@@moistfart9569 That is an excellent point, which is why I save my sawdust amigo ;) And yes, I am a professional - Maple Creek Woodworking, Baroda, MI. Didn't know it was that obvious....
Very nice ✌️
😉👍🙏
Magnífico trabalho Will!!!
Olá amigo! Obrigado por assistir e deixar seu comentário. Seja sempre bem vindo ao nosso canal. 😉👍🙏
Beautiful work! Thank you.
Thank you for watching and leaving your comment 😉👍🙏
Im sorry you have so many negative comment's to this. I just subbed you because i was mesmerised watching😊 Well done
I like it!
Thanks for watching and leaving your comment 😉👍🙏
I saw trimmer processing on the ceiling for the first time,
I could see the goodness of the indirect lighting. Have a nice day.
good content. could be edited to 60 seconds. use painters tape on the outside when glueing the miter - more accurate. use tape on inside edge to make glue cleanup easier
Great idea thanks.
What kind of oil was put on top ?
Snake oil.
Looks good
Excellent
Thanks for watching my friend 😉👍🙏
Yes, to everything said by the carpenter's in these comments.
Splines are much easier and better looking to reinforce a miter joint. The slots for the splines can be easily and accurately cut on the table saw using a simple jig.
OK, but dowels add mechanical bond. I don’t know if Splines plus gluing area is stronger than dowels, which have less gluing area, but more mechanical strength.
I used to use splines but I think I’ll switch to dowels. Seems easier.
Good idea
This makes it stronger, but... as a woodworker beginner I would NOT glue a miter together like shown. Ideally you either have something like 90 degree clamps or lacking that have a board and with screws and more wood create a shell of some sort, so you can make sure it is 90 degree and stays that way.
If you had a good standing drill, you can set it up to 45 degree and drill the holes before the glue up, that would be even better.
I love the old methods. The old masters wouldn't have left any tear-out. You might be able to avoid the tear-out by drilling in part of way from the side that the drill bit comes out of. Nice joint!
Fantastic!
Good info.
Belíssimo trabalho, Will! 😃
Qual o nome dessa madeira? É muito bonita!!!
Abraços e se mantenha seguro aí com sua família! 🖖😊
Olá amigo. Angelim. Grande abraço e cuide-se. 😉👍🙏🙏
It's look good and working...tks for your sharing ! 😍
Wenn sich "alte Meister" so angestellt hätten, wären ihre Meisterwerke heute noch nicht fertig ...
Good job
That was pretty rad
Loved this video!!! Beautiful wood as well, what type are the boards?
Great stuff! Ty
Great video
ThankYou for sharing. Question please.
Is this joint as strong as Kreg screws or even dovetail?
And what degree is the guide
Thanks for watching my friend 😉👍🙏
Fantastic, super 👍
Beautiful
Hay que hacerle filo al serrucho joven saludos desde Guatemala
Nice joint. Too bad on the tear out. Try clamping a sacrificial block at tearout side.
Thanks for watching 😉👍🙏
What's that stuff he pours on at the end got to do with it?
Sensacional! Gratidão 🌈🤗.
I'm curious if the strength of this method vs doing the same by butt joining them w/dowels is stronger. Certainly it's easier and less time consuming. I'm thinking of building a piece w/dowels and glue holding the drawer corners. Any feedback or suggestions appreciated
Dowel Max makes dowels ridiculously easy and accurate. I love using dowels because your work assembles and the clamps are just to provide pressure not to hold the whole piece together and square.
Boa dica meu amigo valeu ganhou mais um inscrito 👍🏻💯💯
😉👍🙏 valeu amigo, obrigado por assistir e deixar seu comentário
Ether must put groves in the dowels or put the glue into the hole. Between the tight fit and friction there is no glue halway to through the hole.
Great vid
Is that mineral oil you use at the end? I am trying to figure out finishes for wood that I like to use. I tried Renaissance wax, but it smells like an automotive shop. I’ve also done shellac. That’s fine but a lot of work.
I’ve never seen this used in old furniture or building. What old craftsmen do this? I know I will try this.
Nobody does it, and nobody has probably ever done that apart from people on youtube who try to sell it as a genuine skillful woodworking technique. In past, they would have used dovetails or maybe nails or reinforcing splines, in present it would be either the three previous or some hidden dowels, biscuits, dominos, screws, box joints/finger joints or some hardware which allows for disassembly. Given it looks ugly as hell, there is no reason to use this type of joint other than a lack of skill or laziness.
@@janbernad4729 I think it looks very nice. Many other people do also. It is a fairly inexpensive way to make a strong joint. It is stronger than most of these other joints. Dominos, LOL. $1500 dollars for a Festool Domino tool. This joint would take a fraction of the time compared to either of the mortice and tenon or finger joint, and they make jigs for it that you can use a regular drill with. And it requires considerable less skill than others which is an advantage. As far as laziness goes, one might say if you are short on time, this joint would be helpful. So your estimation of it is lacking and due to your own ignorance and subjective sense of ugly.
@@adrianalanbennett
"I think it looks very nice. Many other people do also."
This is just as subjective claim.
"It is a fairly inexpensive way to make a strong joint. It is stronger than most of these other joints."
Can you provide any arguments for this? If you look at common practice, if done properly, any of the joints I mentioned is strong enough for most applications.
"Dominos, LOL. $1500 dollars for a Festool Domino tool."
I know that it is expensive and provides not much advantage over dowels, I only included it just to have the list more complete.
"This joint would take a fraction of the time compared to either of the mortice and tenon or finger joint, and they make jigs for it that you can use a regular drill with."
Hidden dowels take even less time and they equivalent tools.
"And it requires considerable less skill than others which is an advantage."
Same goes for the hidden dowels.
"As far as laziness goes, one might say if you are short on time, this joint would be helpful."
If you're short on time, why not use the hidden dowels? If the time is your significant concern, the very dubious aesthetics of this joint are hardly worth the extra time and effort.
"So your estimation of it is lacking and due to your own ignorance and subjective sense of ugly."
I believe that ignorant would be to hold this joint as something genuinely useful and worth the effort, while there are many other solutions which are objectively better. As for the subjective sense of ugly, I can't claim that noone would ever find the supposed look of this joint ugly, but I can claim that majority of people would prefer some of the other options which i have listed, if they could choose. However, we can objectively judge the craftsmanship involved in making this joint, which does influence the actual look just as much as the construction of the join. Objectively speaking, the work isn't very good - there are gaps along the miter and the dowels, there is also quite a significant amount of tear out at the same places, which is something that could be in this case quite easily avoided with proper work procedures.
Vc é um mestre no serrote! parabéns 🏆🏆🏆🏆🏆
Valeu Carlinhos! Obrigado por assistir e deixar seu comentário 😉👍🙏
Great idea !
Fica a marca dos pinos de madeira.
Faço de um jeito que fica invisível
tna ALL TNE WAY FROM MALTA
Is it all about surface area then? I'm very new and trying to understand the why as much as the how in my journey
It’s also joinery the dowels provide a mechanical bond.
Don't like the tear out. But I like the design, tho!!
No way you actually cut that miter with the dull saw ! Joint does look nice when done however.
Too right. This whole thing is fake. He seriously eyeballed those dowel holes that came out perfectly aligned?
What on earth are you guys talking about?
as evidenced by the circular saw blade burn on the left half
Very nice!!!
Question
Is this a strong joint if you make children play house with the roof as a triangle?
Very nice
Greets from Netherlands💪🏿
Th ❤❤u
Question? You use what looks like could be Mahogany wood for the frame, unless it is unseen I can then understand but if you had a little waste why didn't you make your dowells from the same material so the white Pine or Fir dowell would blend?
Handsaw then power sander
Which one stronger wood dowels or bamboo dowels ?
🎉🎉
Thanks for watching
Master, your handsaw is dull, sharp it.
How very rude keyboard warrior, get a life.
‘Sharpen’, not ‘sharp’.
@@johnstarkie9948ooh watch out the grammar nazi is out. There their they're now, your gonna be aite kid
Tell us you've never handsawn seasoned and quartersawn oak without telling us 🤦♂️
Also, why not just run the pieces through a table saw set to 45°?
Man that lil saw was trying its best
Clearly dowelling the mitre joint is strong. But is four any stronger than 3.
What kind of wood is that you're using? I had a bunch of it a while back and never could figure out what it was
There are always trolls making stupid comments, but can they do better?
No!!!!
Why didn't you spread some glue in the holes before pounding in the dowels? You can see how dry the sides of the dowels are when they emerge on the other side.
Look at all the tear out on that would be unacceptable for me.
WOW! using a mitre cut block to angle your cuts! GENIUS!! TYTY!
Right...and how did he get that perfect 45 degrees on the mitre cut block? Hmmmmm
I know right! Awesome tip
@@edwardebel1847 but it saves time adjusting : ]
Didn't even have to clamp that miter joint... 😄
Surprised the glue joint held hammering in the dowels. I might have sanded the dowels a little.
why dont you make dowels from the same timber that you are using
I would guess either increased contrast for demonstrative purposes or that is what he had lying around.
wow that saw is blunt. How do you put up with that? btw neat tip.
Put the glue in the hole and a groove in the dowel