I have been using Spotone dyes for about 60 years. One of those bottles lasts for years unless you are doing this regularly. One thing I learned early on was that if you get a mix of colors which matches you normal print color, you can save the leftover dye mix, even let it dry out, and it will reconstitute when you add a little water later. I kept my on-going dye mix in a covered shot glass, just the right size to use with a heavy base and didn't take any room to store. The key is to build up the density in several applications. There usually is a bit of dry down making it look a bit darker. It's easier to do than to describe. As for removing black or dark spots, I never was successful using a knife to shave off the emulsion density. you can always see the shaved emulsion area. I found that a slow bleach solution, also sold at the time by Spotone, will take down the black spot to a lighter tone, which you then build back with dye as needed. Not needed very often.
Great video - thanks. The almost-dry brush, as you point out, is crucial to avoid the “big dollops” (which then have to be knifed out😂) Another mistake I made after learning to use a dry brush was to use a strong magnifier for spotting and I found myself almost trying to spot out the grain in the image! Thanks again for this. It’s a tremendously valuable video series.
I've been looking for a good tutorial on spotting like this for a while now, photography classes at *two* colleges in the US and one didn't have us learn to spot at all and the other just told us to use spotting pens (that I've not been able to find) Thank you!
Dear John, in the beginning of this video you refer to selenium toning possibly requiring more colours to match. I guess spotting before the toning may not be an alternative as the dye may respond differently to the toning than the print itself? I am in particular doing archival toning.
Spotting should be done after the toning. The spotting dye will be affected by the toning and washing. There are different colour spotting dyes. I have normal, warm and cold. So never wash or tone after spotting.
i heard that Kenna uses steam to help absorb the dye into the emulsion, but that does not work for me. On darker areas its hard to avoid the spot being visible, at least on gloss paper, since it does not have the same glossiness. I've tried mixing with Gum Arabic, this helps a little. Any tips to get the spot to completely blend in?
This is interesting. I've not noticed the difference with mine although there may well be. What I have noticed is that I see things 'wrong' with the spotting that my wife and friends never see. Maybe we are our worst critics :)
The problem is to find Marshall's spot-all kits, maybe you have some other suggestions (anyone)? BTW, I'm in Europe, not in the UK, so any other product names could be useful too. Thanks in advance.
@@PictorialPlanet Brilliant, thanks. Actually after watching this I suddenly thought to dive into Tim Rudman's book. He seems to suggest that water colours also work, which is interesting to know. I might also look into that too.
I have been using Spotone dyes for about 60 years. One of those bottles lasts for years unless you are doing this regularly. One thing I learned early on was that if you get a mix of colors which matches you normal print color, you can save the leftover dye mix, even let it dry out, and it will reconstitute when you add a little water later. I kept my on-going dye mix in a covered shot glass, just the right size to use with a heavy base and didn't take any room to store. The key is to build up the density in several applications. There usually is a bit of dry down making it look a bit darker. It's easier to do than to describe. As for removing black or dark spots, I never was successful using a knife to shave off the emulsion density. you can always see the shaved emulsion area. I found that a slow bleach solution, also sold at the time by Spotone, will take down the black spot to a lighter tone, which you then build back with dye as needed. Not needed very often.
Thanks Randall, good information from great experience!
Watching this video is like listening to a visual song of some sort. Very satisfying.
Some great tips there, John. I use the upside down trick when processing my images on the computer to analyse tonal balance.
Thanks Robert! Brilliant idea for computer editing!!
Hi John, I hope you are well. Did you ever do a video on black spots, I am trying to find it. Otherwise, that could be the next in line.
I didn't and I need to. I'll get that higher up on the list.
Great video - thanks. The almost-dry brush, as you point out, is crucial to avoid the “big dollops” (which then have to be knifed out😂) Another mistake I made after learning to use a dry brush was to use a strong magnifier for spotting and I found myself almost trying to spot out the grain in the image! Thanks again for this. It’s a tremendously valuable video series.
Cheers Bob! Good tip for everyone about the magnifying glass. Agreed that it can get a bit too close :) And thanks for the kind words!
Thank you for another wonderful and very educating video.
I've been looking for a good tutorial on spotting like this for a while now, photography classes at *two* colleges in the US and one didn't have us learn to spot at all and the other just told us to use spotting pens (that I've not been able to find)
Thank you!
You're very welcome and thanks for commenting.
Dear John, in the beginning of this video you refer to selenium toning possibly requiring more colours to match. I guess spotting before the toning may not be an alternative as the dye may respond differently to the toning than the print itself? I am in particular doing archival toning.
Spotting should be done after the toning. The spotting dye will be affected by the toning and washing. There are different colour spotting dyes. I have normal, warm and cold. So never wash or tone after spotting.
@@PictorialPlanet thanks crystal clear!
mmh does the paper not scratch the photo? i would put some fine linen under the paper. Thanks for sharing!
Nice video! Curious if the spotting dye works on RC papers?
Hi Michael! Yes, it works just the same on RC as FB.
i heard that Kenna uses steam to help absorb the dye into the emulsion, but that does not work for me. On darker areas its hard to avoid the spot being visible, at least on gloss paper, since it does not have the same glossiness. I've tried mixing with Gum Arabic, this helps a little. Any tips to get the spot to completely blend in?
This is interesting. I've not noticed the difference with mine although there may well be. What I have noticed is that I see things 'wrong' with the spotting that my wife and friends never see. Maybe we are our worst critics :)
@@PictorialPlanet it's something I notice spotting FB gloss papers, on other papers it blends in much better, but quite possibly no-one else notices!
The problem is to find Marshall's spot-all kits, maybe you have some other suggestions (anyone)? BTW, I'm in Europe, not in the UK, so any other product names could be useful too.
Thanks in advance.
This should do you :)
fotospeed.com/dy10-b-w-retouch-kit-burnt-sienna-black-and-grey.html
@@PictorialPlanet Brilliant, thanks. Actually after watching this I suddenly thought to dive into Tim Rudman's book. He seems to suggest that water colours also work, which is interesting to know. I might also look into that too.