I know you said this isn't an instructional video but it's exactly what I needed! The main cycling maintenance channels have distracting music or editing, or they go too quickly, or they don't show what they're doing properly. This video was spot on for my brain and it's like a fog has finally lifted when it comes to changing cables. I'm going to have a go myself with this newfound confidence. Cheers from Coventry in England 👍.
Oooh! Oooh! Wait!! While your cables are still fresh and clean, don't use those ferrule end caps! SOLDER the ends! It looks way cleaner, doesn't fall off, and lets you slide the cables back through the housing if you ever need to remove them to service the shifters. If you want the full run-down on adjusting derailleurs, Park Tool has some of the best tutorials. RJ the Bike Guy is another great one.
I got sick and tired of my mountain bike shifters going out of adjustment so I slapped on a set of friction shifters. They don't have any "positions"; the lever's just held in place by friction (hence the name), so you just shift by feel. Super old school but dead reliable and never needs adjustment. I love 'em.
I've replaced my cables a few times and what I noticed is at the released edge of the control you want it barely in a state of tension. From time to time also adjusted the low and high screws that really limit the range of the derailleur in both directions. Pretty sure you are also supposed to cut the excess cable and clamp a non fretting cap at the end. Oh you did I used a toothed wrench to close it all along the cylinder.
6:47 they say to heat the cable with a cig lighter before cutting it to make it easier to cut without fraying. I always fit Middleburn cable oilers to my cables, lift the o-ring out of the way and then spray in some lube. Keeps the cables moving freely and gets the gunk out.
Whenever it's time for cables, I take everything apart down to the naked frame, then inspect and clean, and generally also replace at least the chain and idlers. Though, the last time I did that on my tri bike I found so much wear that I switched everything to an Ultegra Di2 gruppo.
The two screws on the top of the front derailleur are for setting the limits of movement....basically so it doesn't throw your chain of the big or little chainring. Shouldn't need adjusting I imagine. Well done anyway....
Pro tip. As with any mechanical systems exposed to strong uv/heat/sunlight etc, cables and outers should be checked for integrity and condition a minimum of every 6 months. This obviously depends on use and exposure to harsh environmental conditions. I give my bike a once over every 6 months and adjust/lubricate/replace as necessary. A lot of good bike shops will offer a service package for your machine for a good price. A bit like having your car regularly serviced and checked, you wouldn't skip that. Many great cycle channels on TH-cam, RJ The Bike Guy offers really useful advice on repairs, servicing and modifying your bike.
On my bike, most of the cables can go through a slot somewhere once unhooked, which helps to avoid pulling the entire cable through stuff... (I'm not sure about the shifters though) Edit: apparently not the gears
Got a similar bike myself (one of four) never known the outers to deteriorate...guess it's the Australian sun shine. Replaced my shifters last year...originals were knackered after 14 years of use....
Interesting. I always had major trouble aligning shifters (and brakes), whether Shimano or not, on all the bikes I had. You get it all perfect in the workshop turning the wheels with no tension, then as soon as you're on the road with the chain under operating tension, everything changes and is out of whack again. Gaaah!
Reminds me I need to replace the rear hub on a Cannondale ST500 touring bike. The thing is it is a width that was only made for a short time. The only hubs that easily adjust to fit it are expensive, as in twice what I paid for the bike. I can't adjust the rear dropout width because it is very stiff aluminum. It's frame is stiffer than the Klein frames I was using for racing at the time I bought it.
I've had an issue with my bike where it would no longer shift the gears in one direction. Fiddled around with derailleur springs and adjustment screws for a while, until I thought to check the shifting cable, and noticed that it was rusted through right after the shifter mechanism :) If you don't know where to look, these can be bastards to diagnose.
I recommend that you replace your brake cables as well. if you cannot shift gears, it is annoying, but is not a big deal. However, if you're going down hill and you cannot stop it, you have a problem. and a maintenance plan Is always good.
I would agree, but, even if the plastic outer housing on the brake cables comes off the cable themselves will certainly not fail due to its spiral construction. This is just UV damage or age, which won't affect steel.
Had a similar issue with my cables aswell . Same shifter . The metal inner sheathing pulled through the end and went into the shifter mechanism . So annoying
A nice surprise to see a bike maintenance video, and even cooler that you also have a Trek 7.3fx. Mine is black and silver, from 2009 - yours looks like it might be a year ot two younger. I think your noble steed needs more exercise, so the cables wear out, rather than rot out! In 50,000+km, I've worn out all of the cables, several times, but never had the sheath rot like this. Also, the grey cabling looks much better, and matches the forks and frame. Stay shiny side up, rubber side down! More bike videos, please!
Lol the irony, I ignored this video after breaking my rear derailer cable on my commute. Fought though replacing it and adjusting it back then sat down for some TH-cam and what do i see… Lol.
For safety's sake replacing the brake cables at the same time is a good idea. You don't want your brake cables failing at the worst time, believe me I know.
I know it's a long time since you posted about the front brake lever being on the right in Australia, but yes, we are backwards and thank goodness we are. Have you ever gotten off a motorcycle with the right lever doing the front brake, then hopped onto a push bike with left front brake and crashed as you used heaps of left brake on a wet road so you wouldn't lock up the front wheel? I did exactly that in Germany on a borrowed bicycle, and when the person who lent me the borrowed bicycle in Germany visited us in Australia she couldn't adjust to a right front bicycle brake. So we changed her cables over and she was good to go. As a very long time motorcycle rider, keeping front braking to the right hand ensures I am always using the correct lever for front wheel braking, whether that be motorcycle or bicycle.
You should probably clean the areas you take apart with a proper bike degreaser and lube the proper areas to prevent any wear due to dirt and to keep everything operating properly. If there is dirt where the cable makes contact it could negatively impact shifting performance, speed, and accuracy due to the added friction. Same could be said when using old cable housing with new cables. Nice video nonetheless.
In this case the only frictional part is the guide under the frame, and those were clean. Every other friction point is the new Shimano cable sheath. The dirty final attachment point doesn't matter because the cable doesn't really slide over that.
Wow, I've never came across such deterioration of the cable housing. Could be that 'stralian sun and not very UV resistant plastic material? Better have used sunscreen on that somewhere around SPF50! :) I've never could have guessed that Shimano sells that nice teflon coated cable similar to Jagwire. Even the kit looks similarly well-packed with those extra rubber baby buggy bumpers to protect the frame from cable scratches. It's worth replacing the cables after a few years of frequent usage to avoid increasing friction in the system. Mu-zero is a PITA. :) BTW your front derailleur is often named "bottom pull" type but it could simply be a convertible (universal) one. It's cheaper to manufacture one universal type and make it covertible to either bottom or top pull type. I'm not sure but your derailleur looks to be from the Alivio series of Shimano products. But it's just a wild guess. Could be you bought that nice Trek with a Deore kit from the factory (according to the rear one).
Bike repairs… a never ending story for those in the Netherlands. It’s one of those jobs I find really fiddly. Those derailleur gears are high maintenance, most commuter bikes here have hub gears. The issue that a lot people have with derailleurs is that chain can easily come off whilst cycling when it’s slack. With hub gears, it’s far less common that the chain comes off, however I have the bike serviced at least once per year as it’s my daily driver which has to be reliable for daily 28km commutes. I can hear and sense when the chain needs to be retensioned and the rear wheel to realigned.
Sigh. I guess this is the universe telling me to finally fix my damn front derailleur, when even the EE channel is doing it. 🙄 Be nice to get out of first gear. 😁👍
The only mistake that you had made was using Shimano Road Bike, Cables and Housings when that's a Hybrid Combo Mountain Road Bike with Mountain Bike Components not Road Bike Components. You need to replace with Shimano MTB Cables and Housings. The only thing connected to the Road Bike aspect are the 700c Wheels and Tires to witch there are now multiple Treaded 700c Tires available out on the market through several Bicycle Tire Manufacturer's, to be able to take you from the flat roads and out to the off roads and trails.
The leading Japanese bicycle gear products manufacturer's gear is PITA? Maybe you should stop buying Claris and Tourney combined with no-name cassettes and chains..
God I have a racing bike that is 30 years old and the sheathing on the cables are as good as new. I hope you go ask for your money back. They shouldn't be using crap like that.
looks like gimicky plastic junk. I'm still using my 30 year old shimano levers they are just fine. I like being able to jump straight to the right gear with just one lever.
You mispronounced aluminum mate! Also somewhat surprised you have a road bike and that it's got rim brakes instead of hydraulic disc brakes. Mustn't ride that much! I myself have a Merida Speeder 100 and absolutely love it, far better than the $100 mountain bike I bought at K-Mart last year!
![เปิดบ้าน โคตรสวย ป๋องกพล รู้จักตั้งนาน เพิ่งรู้ว่ารวย!!! l [Nickynachat]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/tmgCF_2HfYI/mqdefault.jpg)
Thanks for the video. I got help on how to take the old one off - was going to dismantle the shifter too much but thanks to this video, didn't!
I know you said this isn't an instructional video but it's exactly what I needed! The main cycling maintenance channels have distracting music or editing, or they go too quickly, or they don't show what they're doing properly. This video was spot on for my brain and it's like a fog has finally lifted when it comes to changing cables. I'm going to have a go myself with this newfound confidence. Cheers from Coventry in England 👍.
I love a no BS video with terminology.
Oooh! Oooh! Wait!! While your cables are still fresh and clean, don't use those ferrule end caps! SOLDER the ends! It looks way cleaner, doesn't fall off, and lets you slide the cables back through the housing if you ever need to remove them to service the shifters.
If you want the full run-down on adjusting derailleurs, Park Tool has some of the best tutorials. RJ the Bike Guy is another great one.
This is the highlight of my week. If you do a Mario Kart video it would be a fever dream.
I got sick and tired of my mountain bike shifters going out of adjustment so I slapped on a set of friction shifters. They don't have any "positions"; the lever's just held in place by friction (hence the name), so you just shift by feel. Super old school but dead reliable and never needs adjustment. I love 'em.
Rohloff uses two cables, never goes out of adjustment.
I've replaced my cables a few times and what I noticed is at the released edge of the control you want it barely in a state of tension. From time to time also adjusted the low and high screws that really limit the range of the derailleur in both directions. Pretty sure you are also supposed to cut the excess cable and clamp a non fretting cap at the end. Oh you did I used a toothed wrench to close it all along the cylinder.
6:47 they say to heat the cable with a cig lighter before cutting it to make it easier to cut without fraying.
I always fit Middleburn cable oilers to my cables, lift the o-ring out of the way and then spray in some lube. Keeps the cables moving freely and gets the gunk out.
Tightly tape the cable, then cut.
They do just sell cables without the housing as well so you can get a proper long rear cable.
It was long enough so no problem.
Whenever it's time for cables, I take everything apart down to the naked frame, then inspect and clean, and generally also replace at least the chain and idlers. Though, the last time I did that on my tri bike I found so much wear that I switched everything to an Ultegra Di2 gruppo.
The two screws on the top of the front derailleur are for setting the limits of movement....basically so it doesn't throw your chain of the big or little chainring. Shouldn't need adjusting I imagine. Well done anyway....
Correct. And yes it didn't need adjusting.
I lost both limiting screws of the front deraileur of FX and now wondering how I can get replacement for them.
Pro tip. As with any mechanical systems exposed to strong uv/heat/sunlight etc, cables and outers should be checked for integrity and condition a minimum of every 6 months. This obviously depends on use and exposure to harsh environmental conditions.
I give my bike a once over every 6 months and adjust/lubricate/replace as necessary. A lot of good bike shops will offer a service package for your machine for a good price. A bit like having your car regularly serviced and checked, you wouldn't skip that. Many great cycle channels on TH-cam, RJ The Bike Guy offers really useful advice on repairs, servicing and modifying your bike.
Not everyone can afford what other people think is a "Good price" for bike shop sevices. That's why we're here.
You should do a Nexus hub teardown and 2nd part putting it back together (the good part)
gotta change my rear cable and stumble across an EEVBlog video! @16:01 that's what I'm aiming for... super slick possum...
Thanks, gave me a good run through. Very helpful.
On my bike, most of the cables can go through a slot somewhere once unhooked, which helps to avoid pulling the entire cable through stuff... (I'm not sure about the shifters though)
Edit: apparently not the gears
Got a similar bike myself (one of four) never known the outers to deteriorate...guess it's the Australian sun shine. Replaced my shifters last year...originals were knackered after 14 years of use....
Interesting. I always had major trouble aligning shifters (and brakes), whether Shimano or not, on all the bikes I had. You get it all perfect in the workshop turning the wheels with no tension, then as soon as you're on the road with the chain under operating tension, everything changes and is out of whack again. Gaaah!
Reminds me I need to replace the rear hub on a Cannondale ST500 touring bike. The thing is it is a width that was only made for a short time. The only hubs that easily adjust to fit it are expensive, as in twice what I paid for the bike. I can't adjust the rear dropout width because it is very stiff aluminum. It's frame is stiffer than the Klein frames I was using for racing at the time I bought it.
Twice what you paid for the whole bike? Yikes!
@@EEVblog2 Yeah, they are internal geared hubs. One is made for tandem use so it is very heavy duty.
I've had an issue with my bike where it would no longer shift the gears in one direction. Fiddled around with derailleur springs and adjustment screws for a while, until I thought to check the shifting cable, and noticed that it was rusted through right after the shifter mechanism :)
If you don't know where to look, these can be bastards to diagnose.
I recommend that you replace your brake cables as well. if you cannot shift gears, it is annoying, but is not a big deal. However, if you're going down hill and you cannot stop it, you have a problem. and a maintenance plan Is always good.
I would agree, but, even if the plastic outer housing on the brake cables comes off the cable themselves will certainly not fail due to its spiral construction. This is just UV damage or age, which won't affect steel.
Yeah, probably will.
Had a similar issue with my cables aswell . Same shifter . The metal inner sheathing pulled through the end and went into the shifter mechanism . So annoying
A nice surprise to see a bike maintenance video, and even cooler that you also have a Trek 7.3fx. Mine is black and silver, from 2009 - yours looks like it might be a year ot two younger. I think your noble steed needs more exercise, so the cables wear out, rather than rot out! In 50,000+km, I've worn out all of the cables, several times, but never had the sheath rot like this. Also, the grey cabling looks much better, and matches the forks and frame. Stay shiny side up, rubber side down! More bike videos, please!
Yes, I haven't seen cable seath rot like this before.
Lol the irony, I ignored this video after breaking my rear derailer cable on my commute. Fought though replacing it and adjusting it back then sat down for some TH-cam and what do i see…
Lol.
For safety's sake replacing the brake cables at the same time is a good idea. You don't want your brake cables failing at the worst time, believe me I know.
Correct me if I'm wrong. Is it kamagatsa ? Have a good day Dave 👍
Come-a-gutsa
thanks.. very handy.. was just about to do this repair!
@9:39 Dude, that front brake cable&housing is totally wack! The left lever should control the front brake unless u Aussies are backwards?
I know it's a long time since you posted about the front brake lever being on the right in Australia, but yes, we are backwards and thank goodness we are. Have you ever gotten off a motorcycle with the right lever doing the front brake, then hopped onto a push bike with left front brake and crashed as you used heaps of left brake on a wet road so you wouldn't lock up the front wheel?
I did exactly that in Germany on a borrowed bicycle, and when the person who lent me the borrowed bicycle in Germany visited us in Australia she couldn't adjust to a right front bicycle brake. So we changed her cables over and she was good to go. As a very long time motorcycle rider, keeping front braking to the right hand ensures I am always using the correct lever for front wheel braking, whether that be motorcycle or bicycle.
Shorten by how many times 25.4mm units ?
very good precise helpful explanation 👍😎
You should probably clean the areas you take apart with a proper bike degreaser and lube the proper areas to prevent any wear due to dirt and to keep everything operating properly. If there is dirt where the cable makes contact it could negatively impact shifting performance, speed, and accuracy due to the added friction. Same could be said when using old cable housing with new cables. Nice video nonetheless.
In this case the only frictional part is the guide under the frame, and those were clean. Every other friction point is the new Shimano cable sheath. The dirty final attachment point doesn't matter because the cable doesn't really slide over that.
Wow, I've never came across such deterioration of the cable housing. Could be that 'stralian sun and not very UV resistant plastic material? Better have used sunscreen on that somewhere around SPF50! :) I've never could have guessed that Shimano sells that nice teflon coated cable similar to Jagwire. Even the kit looks similarly well-packed with those extra rubber baby buggy bumpers to protect the frame from cable scratches. It's worth replacing the cables after a few years of frequent usage to avoid increasing friction in the system. Mu-zero is a PITA. :) BTW your front derailleur is often named "bottom pull" type but it could simply be a convertible (universal) one. It's cheaper to manufacture one universal type and make it covertible to either bottom or top pull type. I'm not sure but your derailleur looks to be from the Alivio series of Shimano products. But it's just a wild guess. Could be you bought that nice Trek with a Deore kit from the factory (according to the rear one).
Bike repairs… a never ending story for those in the Netherlands. It’s one of those jobs I find really fiddly. Those derailleur gears are high maintenance, most commuter bikes here have hub gears. The issue that a lot people have with derailleurs is that chain can easily come off whilst cycling when it’s slack. With hub gears, it’s far less common that the chain comes off, however I have the bike serviced at least once per year as it’s my daily driver which has to be reliable for daily 28km commutes. I can hear and sense when the chain needs to be retensioned and the rear wheel to realigned.
Perfect tutorial
I like, Bike Repair Video, Dave!
Southern hemisphere UV is still heaps strong
Is that an eco drive watch?
What's the difference between aluminum and aluminum rubbish?
It's aluminium vs aluminum. The 'colour' countries have an n in the word that the 'color' countries don't.
great video
You really should grease the inner wire before adding the outer sheath to prevent corrosion. Otherwise your instruction is pretty decent.
Dave, you need clean that chain.
10:45 well you never should ride with that combination anyway, it's called cross-chaining
you should do a biking vlog like Scooby
Who is Scooby?
@@EEVblog2 Scooby1961
Yep
Awww....no headcam road test...:-)
C belen sakit pa ang likod kol. Tikig sad ang likod bag o ra nako gipahilot. C ievan naa meeting sa UP.
Aww that sucks about the cable lengths...
Have had a 7.3 for a couple of years never like the original Shimano derailleur.
I have the same bike, same color too, winner winner chicken dinner 👍
why do you have talk nonsense for half an hour before the action
Sigh. I guess this is the universe telling me to finally fix my damn front derailleur, when even the EE channel is doing it. 🙄 Be nice to get out of first gear. 😁👍
The only mistake that you had made was using Shimano Road Bike, Cables and Housings when that's a Hybrid Combo Mountain Road Bike with Mountain Bike Components not Road Bike Components. You need to replace with Shimano MTB Cables and Housings. The only thing connected to the Road Bike aspect are the 700c Wheels and Tires to witch there are now multiple Treaded 700c Tires available out on the market through several Bicycle Tire Manufacturer's, to be able to take you from the flat roads and out to the off roads and trails.
Here's some notes on my keeping the cheapest Canadian bike running for 10 years so far. facebook.com/matthew.suffidy.1/posts/325200832588775
Shimano bike gear has always been a PITA for me!.... they should stick to fishing gear! :P
I've never had an issue with them.
You want PITA, try Campagnolo. Shimano is fine, otherwise they wouldn't be the largest manufacturer
The leading Japanese bicycle gear products manufacturer's gear is PITA? Maybe you should stop buying Claris and Tourney combined with no-name cassettes and chains..
What if you can't open a fucking screw at handle?
You need mtb brake cable instead of road brake cable.
Why?
Did I miss something in the video? He isn't replacing brake cable
A real biker would have used a cable made of woven siamese cat whiskers! It's the only way. 👍
@@EEVblog2 if you replace the brake cables, road and mtb cables are different. Shift cables are the same. Seems silly but that's how they make them.
God I have a racing bike that is 30 years old and the sheathing on the cables are as good as new. I hope you go ask for your money back. They shouldn't be using crap like that.
Got once bicycle with fancy gear shifts, one little branch destroy it totally. Never buy again same type.
looks like gimicky plastic junk. I'm still using my 30 year old shimano levers they are just fine. I like being able to jump straight to the right gear with just one lever.
Good quality super slick opossum shit teflon
heddo. my dad likes biking
Doh!
You mispronounced aluminum mate! Also somewhat surprised you have a road bike and that it's got rim brakes instead of hydraulic disc brakes. Mustn't ride that much! I myself have a Merida Speeder 100 and absolutely love it, far better than the $100 mountain bike I bought at K-Mart last year!
Stick to electronics
Ok, Karen.