As a residential plumbing sub contractor of 40 yrs I do these all the time. During install(before Sheetrock) you’ll have studs on each side of the valve. When drilling the holes horizontally to facilitate the pipes reaching the connections of the valve, drill them a size larger so that if this ever happens the holes won’t restrict the lines from coming forward when you back the mounting screws out to the desired depth(as long as the screws are long enough) or remove and install longer screws if needed. This will keep you from cutting the wall out from the back or removing the tile. However there are exceptions when or if the valve is located on an exterior wall there may be blown in foam insulation that will make this more difficult, but if your valve has bat insulation in it there shouldn’t be a problem using this method. Hope this helps someone.
@Kerfufflekitten do you mind answering a question? I’m a DIY’er and just re-tiled my shower. What I didn’t account for was the new tile is thicker and now the valve is too deep. It’s an older posi-temp valve. Do you know if there is an extension for this? It honestly didn’t even cross my mind to check this beforehand
@Yes they do but not certain what model # it is, the only problem I see you might have is if your finish is anything other than chrome I would think that the bonnet extension and screws would be harder to find available but maybe not. With a chrome finish no problem. Another trick i use for wanting to extent various types of single control valves forward such as yours is…Mount the faceplate up where it is centered on the stem and take a pencil(or sharpie)and follow the edge of the faceplate all the way around, then remove the face plate. Then you can cut all but a 1/2” inside the circle with a thin masonry grinder wheel.(Not a process for the faint of heart that’s for sure) but the bigger circle allows you to remove any material that may restrict the valve connections from sliding forward thus saving the purchase of the extension kit. Hope this helps.
Nothing worse than a valve roughed to deep in a wall with custom hand picked tiles and a trim that they do not make extension kits for! Spent many of long hours in multi million dollar homes going threw the same scenario! Good Job!
All through wall finish valves should be adjustable in some method. I am installing a shower valve with exposed shower head riser. Zero adjustment available. Worst case I will have to grind down the ring. I am trying to leave some gap that would just leave some of the valve copper exposed if it ends up to far out.
delta was good about replacing missing parts, set screws,i bought things on amazon under their "used" sub menu, saved a ton,getting the nipple length on the body sprays was a chore,made my own custom lengths
I have had a few valves end up a little shy before. Its devastating. Luckily most of the manufactures make extension kits. You guys did get lucky with that one. Only problem is now the valve is pointing upwards. Maybe most will not notice. Glad that you went to ace for those screws. They saved the day for me earlier today. I like the stops also but I also like the high flow shower valves from delta, but they don't make it with stops. Probably should have grouted before putting the escutcheon back on ;)
@@Vin3Man The delta R10000-UNBXHF is the high flow shower only. Your regular R10000-UNBX will work if it's a tub and shower. But it's not considered high flow for the shower side.
Would have had the same issue on the Grohe fixture we just installed. Not designed for a floated wall. Ended up having to notch the copper supply lines into the denzshield in order to make it work. Only realized it because we did the demo and plumbing and worked alongside tile guy. Otherwise super easy thing to overlook. Great job on the fix.
Besides he never removed all the grout with just a couple swipes on the outside of the tile grout line. Time saved. Not hurting a thing. It what I would have done.
You got pretty lucky with this one! Normally, it's not this easy. Sometimes depending on how well a plumber fastens the copper lines to a backing further down the vertical run, unscrewing the rough valve portion only tilts the stem and cartridge outward in an angle, in which case, your escutcheon will not sit flat on the finished wall.
I love your videos, I just wanted to make some suggestions if I may! I would put some kind of blanket or protection on the floor because the pieces may fall and chip your beautiful tile job, also I would have grouted it before I put the cover plate. Great job as usual👍
What's funny here is these shower valves a DIY guy can purchase have a lot of forgiveness in them, especially the Delta products. You start getting into Ghroe or California Faucets, you and the plumber better be on the same page. I floated everything and found if you set the thing between 1 5/8" and 1 3/4" they fit come payday, the day you set the trim. The problem most people have is they just attach the new valve to the existing water supplies thinking that's where it goes. Guys like us should know better than this. When you figured out you had to float that wall, someone should have got the tape measure out.
The valve instructions usually say have the edge of the plaster guard within certain measurements of the proposed finished wall. Unfortunately the last (off brand) valve didn't have clear measurements regarding the finished wall. Ended up too deep in wall. Now "praying" for an available extension kit! 🙏🏾😳😊
Wassup buddy how are u I have a question I only float all my bathrooms I don’t do hardibacker. So u said u have half inch denshield plus half inch float cement mortar that’s already 1 inch plus thinset and tile
This happened to us so many times we used to just have extra extension kits. It's also helpful if the plumber checks the walls, and or what the tile setters plan is.
When I install a shower valve I ask the tile guy how thick the tile and everything will be I put the shower valve at the appropriate depth. If it comes out thicker than that then it's not my problem.
@@PlumbNutz Yeah we did allot work in post WWII track homes. Some were just the worst nothing square, plumb, level or even parallel. On a tight budget, we had to be creative sometimes to do a good job, and have be right.
You learn as a tile guy to always check them. The whole “not my job” thing costs everyone. First thing I check when I’m told “shower is ready for you”.
He turned the screws in on the regulator to turn the water off, but I didn’t see him turn them back on, I bet after the vid they had to disassemble everything again to access those screws. 😬😬
The problem started with the G.C. not providing the plumber with a straight wall to work with, Its not the plumbers job to determine if the wall needs to be floated out.
Bro has much more skill than me as a GC. But look. This is why I hate the float option you use. Just get the walls plumb and square before you rock the walls and then you’re good. With all due respect, just my .02 Love your work and channel.
OK the only thing I see wrong so far other than what you were describing but at first glance as a project manager I can tell you your design is absolutely beautiful however you’re missing one characteristic that maybe you didn’t know about so I’ll tell you… On the glass enclosure the glass installers should’ve offered the sapphire blue glass as it is absolute clear and when you’re looking at the white on the video you can see the shading of the white shower and it should’ve been absolute clear the customers would’ve been blown away… It’s worth the change out should they decide but look into it and you will see because I hate looking at Beautiful white showers but then seeing a shading and color difference…. 🤔 just a thought 👍
This is the only video that I can find on the entire internet showing the installation of a Delta T27T997 Two-handle temperature 17T valve trim with setting diverter. Since Im probably not the only person frustrated with delta for showing the diverter install without the valve trim, I posted a link to this video on the Delta site showing installation of the associated R22000 Diverter Rough.
You should check at your local plumbing supply house for someone who knows a delta rep, they usually either got the good stuff or can get it on the fly!
@TileCoach so if the valves are set too deep, there is an option to put in an extension on the valves? I have an issue with a shower elbow valve being too deep. Can I purchase an extension to bring it out a 1/4 inch? Or do i have to go in from behind in closet wall?
Wondering why you left the plaster guard in. It's not necessary after the tiling is finished. Sometimes it gets in the way. I had one guy install it behind the tile! They definitely couldn't have gotten the trim on that way. I'm sure they had fun removing it! 😂
Rough-in box/Plaster guard has the 4 nuts that the longer screws go into which retains the finish chrome, I have same unit. Crazy the rough-in box has only one screw to the valve body,
Been there many times on vektek hydraulic elevator fittings too recessed into the wall ,loosen the mounting screws and slip a couple slotted shims behind the screw to fill in the space then put the cover plate over it .The sudden torque from the fluid pressure no matter what kind of fluid will slightly move that valve over and over and it will eventually leak if a space is left between the stud and the screw ,even if the cover plate is tight.
good thing you didn't have to bust any tiles out - I don't see how you could have made it 100% waterproof again... also looks like it's pointing up now..
I’m glad it worked out for him, but I would like to see a video of a pro removing and replacing a tile or a few tiles that are installed on a sheet membrane or roll on membrane. Tile Coach actually said what he expected to happen if he removed them from the fleece-like membrane. I wonder what would likely happen on a roll on membrane? I was thinking the membrane would just separate from the backer board. Would this damage the backer board? Or could a new layer just be brushed/rolled on. Hmm.
The issue could have been prevented if the extension kit was already on hand before deciding to float the wall, otherwise the diverter mounting could had been corrected prior to wall plumb correction.
Can you do a video on water absorption rate for tile? What tiles to use in showers given their water absorption rates. Maybe even an experiment with tile with high absorption rates submerge in water compared to tiles with low absorption rates, etc.
Before I was a GC I was installing tile, a tile guy must learn basic plumbing such installing a valve an patching drywall if necessary. You can easily adjust a valve after you prepare your walls and prior installing tile.
A tile guy does not need to learn plumbing.... he needs to call the builder who can call the plumber. so they can can figure out the problem.... a tile guy shouldnt be playing with that valve at all....when it leaks in 2 months whose fault would that be?
@@rmbuilder1 that’s a really mediocre mentally, a tile guy that works on showers must know and learn basic plumbing, this is not rocket science! I been in the industry more than 28 years and never once had a shower valve leak and if it leaks you fix it and learn from it! In life you need skills and the more skills you learn, the easier it becomes.
@@boxing1940 What does you being in the business 28 years and never having a valve leak have to do with the fact that the TILE guy should be setting tile and not screwing around with the plumbing? By the way, I've been in business over 33 years and have never had a valve leak....you know why? Because I am a builder and I don't screw around with someone else's work...
Issac how do you waterproof around that valve(thinking it’s the same as my Delta R22000)? Ie: traditional Valve Seals meant for single valves don’t work, thanks.
Hey Tile Coach.U think I could send you a video of my upstairs bathroom that was renovated but it is leaking bad.And if u can give me a few scenarios what they did wrong.
What if a shower valve is set to high, sticks out to far from tile and doesn't allow trim kit to seal against tile? A riser plate of sorts to sit on top of the tile seems to be what I need, but I have no idea what you would call that.
If it’s one of those Amazon valves you can cut down the valve housing flush. If it’s a delta etc look into some square gasket material you can cut to size to make up for that gap! Good luck !
What depth would you recommend to place the face of plaster guard. When in doubt I usually go with 3/4" out from face of stud. I figure there's a 1/4" of tolerance either way so the tile guy can go with any size backer board standard tile size and all is well.
This is a JOKE! The guy is NOT a PRO only a utuber. Any real contractor would have measured everything in advance before applying the backboard and tile. Along with allowing for the thinset wether it was an eighth inch or a quarter inch depth on it depending on the size of the tiles. A real contractor would NOT have removed the grout before trying to adjust the valve and most of them would have went to the back wall and cut a hole in the drywall did it that way and then just patched the drywall. A lot easier and a lot quicker!
Maybe you could do a show on how to make your shower wand into a rain head by using an attachment on the ceiling. So you don't need extra Plumbing in the ceiling. Besides the wand has adjustments that rain heads don't.
do you happen to remember how long and wide the bathroom is? i think i pretty much have to exact same layout and size at home. and i would like to copy your design. but i am scared to corner of the shower will come to close to the vanity.
9 times out of 10 you can just go to back side of wall and correct it. Simple drywall repair. Way better than busting tile or jacking up the escutcheon crooked.
i read my instructions ,and still got it wrong,luckily just buying longer screws fixed it,and the trim still fit well,but the mud ring shouldve been out about 3/8 in more
I don't get it. Shouldn't those wall through parts get sealed specially on shower area behind the tiles? Maybe it's just confusing me cause here everything what is in bathroom is taked very seriously by waterproofing. All pass through wall items we seal those before tiles. Like if you seal doors and drain you could make it to pool safely. :)
Making sure the plumber is clear about the distance the finished wall is makes a big difference! Teamwork makes a difference also. Plumber and tile person mainly. General contractor if one is involved.
Doing a shower remodel now, Kohler is such a headache tho, but more of a headache is my client, changes their mind like a baby changes diapers!!! I know someone feels my pain!!
You can get guys in high value countries to model it (based off a picture and few dimensions so they can scale) and get it printed for a few bucks in the country your in... i have a printer for annoying diy jobs like this
![Installing a New Shower Valve with 3-Way Diverter [copper pipe]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/AX1CVJ9nCAs/mqdefault.jpg)
![Installing a New Shower Valve with 3-Way Diverter [copper pipe]](/img/tr.png)
Nice fix!!
Shouldn’t you have grouted before the plate was installed?
Driving me crazy too lol
Shouldn't you have checked your finish depth before you set any tile... Call that plumber back out.
@@orioncustom
That’s what I’m saying. Why didn’t you check your depth before you set tile. You could have moved the diverter out 🤦♂️
Could have rolled some 45 m&f bends
I’m surprised to see this was an issue for a pro.
As a residential plumbing sub contractor of 40 yrs I do these all the time. During install(before Sheetrock) you’ll have studs on each side of the valve. When drilling the holes horizontally to facilitate the pipes reaching the connections of the valve, drill them a size larger so that if this ever happens the holes won’t restrict the lines from coming forward when you back the mounting screws out to the desired depth(as long as the screws are long enough) or remove and install longer screws if needed. This will keep you from cutting the wall out from the back or removing the tile. However there are exceptions when or if the valve is located on an exterior wall there may be blown in foam insulation that will make this more difficult, but if your valve has bat insulation in it there shouldn’t be a problem using this method. Hope this helps someone.
@Kerfufflekitten do you mind answering a question? I’m a DIY’er and just re-tiled my shower. What I didn’t account for was the new tile is thicker and now the valve is too deep. It’s an older posi-temp valve. Do you know if there is an extension for this? It honestly didn’t even cross my mind to check this beforehand
@Yes they do but not certain what model # it is, the only problem I see you might have is if your finish is anything other than chrome I would think that the bonnet extension and screws would be harder to find available but maybe not. With a chrome finish no problem. Another trick i use for wanting to extent various types of single control valves forward such as yours is…Mount the faceplate up where it is centered on the stem and take a pencil(or sharpie)and follow the edge of the faceplate all the way around, then remove the face plate. Then you can cut all but a 1/2” inside the circle with a thin masonry grinder wheel.(Not a process for the faint of heart that’s for sure) but the bigger circle allows you to remove any material that may restrict the valve connections from sliding forward thus saving the purchase of the extension kit.
Hope this helps.
@ thanks so much man I really appreciate it! Have a happy New Year
Nothing worse than a valve roughed to deep in a wall with custom hand picked tiles and a trim that they do not make extension kits for! Spent many of long hours in multi million dollar homes going threw the same scenario! Good Job!
All through wall finish valves should be adjustable in some method.
I am installing a shower valve with exposed shower head riser. Zero adjustment available. Worst case I will have to grind down the ring. I am trying to leave some gap that would just leave some of the valve copper exposed if it ends up to far out.
delta was good about replacing missing parts, set screws,i bought things on amazon under their "used" sub menu, saved a ton,getting the nipple length on the body sprays was a chore,made my own custom lengths
I have had a few valves end up a little shy before. Its devastating. Luckily most of the manufactures make extension kits. You guys did get lucky with that one.
Only problem is now the valve is pointing upwards. Maybe most will not notice.
Glad that you went to ace for those screws. They saved the day for me earlier today.
I like the stops also but I also like the high flow shower valves from delta, but they don't make it with stops.
Probably should have grouted before putting the escutcheon back on ;)
Great info can you tell me which valves are high flow? I am doing copper to the valves since Plex will reduce flow.
@@Vin3Man The delta R10000-UNBXHF is the high flow shower only. Your regular R10000-UNBX will work if it's a tub and shower. But it's not considered high flow for the shower side.
I see your tile shop every day as I drive through Rocklin, on I-80 !!!
That is an exquisite bathroom design. I especially love the floor reflected up to the ceiling.
Thanks for this video, I had nothing in my manual how to remove these control buttons!
Little did I know these were under the levers.
Would have had the same issue on the Grohe fixture we just installed. Not designed for a floated wall. Ended up having to notch the copper supply lines into the denzshield in order to make it work. Only realized it because we did the demo and plumbing and worked alongside tile guy. Otherwise super easy thing to overlook. Great job on the fix.
nice to see you show how real world work actually goes
You saved the day for us, your workaround for the unavailable thick wall installation work perfectly. Thank you
Glad I could help!
just wondering shouldnt you have re grouted before installing the trim?
Was thinking the same thing.
Drove me nuts too...
Yes…
Should people paint behind the cabinets on your wall? No you won’t ever see the missing grout it’s good to go. Nice job.
Besides he never removed all the grout with just a couple swipes on the outside of the tile grout line. Time saved. Not hurting a thing. It what I would have done.
Nice bathroom, Brah. Lucky on the valve. Take the wins when you can....
Hell yea man I love watching these vids! Helps me learn more which helps me at work!
You got pretty lucky with this one! Normally, it's not this easy. Sometimes depending on how well a plumber fastens the copper lines to a backing further down the vertical run, unscrewing the rough valve portion only tilts the stem and cartridge outward in an angle, in which case, your escutcheon will not sit flat on the finished wall.
They make extension kits for up to an extra 1.75 of gap
@@steved2510 If you listen to the video he stated that they were out of the extensions for this model
@@paulb9376 does anyone know how to install exterior kits?deep rough-in kit
Issac..I like the extra details in the video putting in the valve. It is hard to find that level of detail. Keep up the good work..
I love your videos, I just wanted to make some suggestions if I may! I would put some kind of blanket or protection on the floor because the pieces may fall and chip your beautiful tile job, also I would have grouted it before I put the cover plate. Great job as usual👍
J8
Communication is key. Happens alot to me and the main reason I use moen. Nice work man.
Problem solving lil details is so time consuming....to customer it looks like nothing but can take hrs to troubleshoot a problem
Nice to kno, thanks for your great vids. Helping me with a Reno.
Hi great looking bathroom what do i do when i did not set the shower body deep enough
What's funny here is these shower valves a DIY guy can purchase have a lot of forgiveness in them, especially the Delta products. You start getting into Ghroe or California Faucets, you and the plumber better be on the same page. I floated everything and found if you set the thing between 1 5/8" and 1 3/4" they fit come payday, the day you set the trim.
The problem most people have is they just attach the new valve to the existing water supplies thinking that's where it goes. Guys like us should know better than this. When you figured out you had to float that wall, someone should have got the tape measure out.
Lovely tile pattern and install. Super clean.
Nice!!! I usually have the plumber leave the finish out 1 1/2- 1 3/4 passed the studs
The valve instructions usually say have the edge of the plaster guard within certain measurements of the proposed finished wall.
Unfortunately the last (off brand) valve didn't have clear measurements regarding the finished wall.
Ended up too deep in wall.
Now "praying" for an available extension kit! 🙏🏾😳😊
Very nice job. Wondering how the floor tile is cut? The blue and white are those tiles cut like that? One piece or what?
Just curious...there were no accessible shut offs?
I had run with the same problem and it was running me crazy. Thanks for the great tip
Wassup buddy how are u I have a question I only float all my bathrooms I don’t do hardibacker. So u said u have half inch denshield plus half inch float cement mortar that’s already 1 inch plus thinset and tile
This happened to us so many times we used to just have extra extension kits.
It's also helpful if the plumber checks the walls, and or what the tile setters plan is.
When I install a shower valve I ask the tile guy how thick the tile and everything will be I put the shower valve at the appropriate depth. If it comes out thicker than that then it's not my problem.
@@PlumbNutz Yeah we did allot work in post WWII track homes. Some were just the worst nothing square, plumb, level or even parallel. On a tight budget, we had to be creative sometimes to do a good job, and have be right.
You learn as a tile guy to always check them. The whole “not my job” thing costs everyone. First thing I check when I’m told “shower is ready for you”.
Those shower valve extensions come in handy.
Also it looks like the shower head arm is installed backwards.
I'm in Northern California too.
I was like. HEEYYYYYYY TURN THE WATER BACK ON. LOL. You didn't hear me though. Awesome tile job man. Perfection.
I was thinking about that too 😂.
He turned the screws in on the regulator to turn the water off, but I didn’t see him turn them back on, I bet after the vid they had to disassemble everything again to access those screws. 😬😬
Yeah, he probably had to remove the cover anyway to get grout in that vertical joint so the trim seal has something to come in contact with.
Wow! Great job! I think you could do the glass! :)
The problem started with the G.C. not providing the plumber with a straight wall to work with, Its not the plumbers job to determine if the wall needs to be floated out.
Or just do it without subs
I always have the extensions available whether I need it or not, cause you just never know. You got lucky though, nice job.
Bro has much more skill than me as a GC. But look. This is why I hate the float option you use. Just get the walls plumb and square before you rock the walls and then you’re good. With all due respect, just my .02
Love your work and channel.
OK the only thing I see wrong so far other than what you were describing but at first glance as a project manager I can tell you your design is absolutely beautiful however you’re missing one characteristic that maybe you didn’t know about so I’ll tell you…
On the glass enclosure the glass installers should’ve offered the sapphire blue glass as it is absolute clear and when you’re looking at the white on the video you can see the shading of the white shower and it should’ve been absolute clear the customers would’ve been blown away… It’s worth the change out should they decide but look into it and you will see because I hate looking at Beautiful white showers but then seeing a shading and color difference….
🤔 just a thought 👍
He's not a pro.... he's a utuber. I TOTALLY agree with you.
If the other side of that wall is drywall I would cut a rectangle out to remove the shower side drywall. My Last resort would be removing tile.
This is the only video that I can find on the entire internet showing the installation of a Delta T27T997 Two-handle temperature 17T valve trim with setting diverter. Since Im probably not the only person frustrated with delta for showing the diverter install without the valve trim, I posted a link to this video on the Delta site showing installation of the associated R22000 Diverter Rough.
You should check at your local plumbing supply house for someone who knows a delta rep, they usually either got the good stuff or can get it on the fly!
So did the extension come in or that's the part that came with the assembly
@TileCoach so if the valves are set too deep, there is an option to put in an extension on the valves? I have an issue with a shower elbow valve being too deep. Can I purchase an extension to bring it out a 1/4 inch? Or do i have to go in from behind in closet wall?
This is what happens to me every DIY project. Fix one thing, find a new issue, fix that, find a new small issue! Way to maintain your patience!
Had that issue too with my kohler shower valve but it turned out kohler was smart enough to sell extension kits unlike a airline company like delta
Delta does sell them, it’s a supply/production issue.
@@krehbeinI was going to say the same thing Delta does sell them.
Wondering why you left the plaster guard in.
It's not necessary after the tiling is finished. Sometimes it gets in the way.
I had one guy install it behind the tile!
They definitely couldn't have gotten the trim on that way.
I'm sure they had fun removing it! 😂
Rough-in box/Plaster guard has the 4 nuts that the longer screws go into which retains the finish chrome, I have same unit. Crazy the rough-in box has only one screw to the valve body,
Yeah stick to comedy it is necessary
Been there many times on vektek hydraulic elevator fittings too recessed into the wall ,loosen the mounting screws and slip a couple slotted shims behind the screw to fill in the space then put the cover plate over it .The sudden torque from the fluid pressure no matter what kind of fluid will slightly move that valve over and over and it will eventually leak if a space is left between the stud and the screw ,even if the cover plate is tight.
good thing you didn't have to bust any tiles out - I don't see how you could have made it 100% waterproof again... also looks like it's pointing up now..
I’m glad it worked out for him, but I would like to see a video of a pro removing and replacing a tile or a few tiles that are installed on a sheet membrane or roll on membrane. Tile Coach actually said what he expected to happen if he removed them from the fleece-like membrane. I wonder what would likely happen on a roll on membrane? I was thinking the membrane would just separate from the backer board. Would this damage the backer board? Or could a new layer just be brushed/rolled on. Hmm.
Would it not have been better to grout before putting back that fancy faceplate?
Yes! But owell,too late!!!
The issue could have been prevented if the extension kit was already on hand before deciding to float the wall, otherwise the diverter mounting could had been corrected prior to wall plumb correction.
Mental note to self, don't use Delta. Test controls trim fits before applying tiles.
Where some see obstacles, others see challenges. Way to go, Isaac! 🛠👍🏻
You should have removed the drywall before installing the durock.
Yep. But he's not a pro. Any true contractor would have removed the drywall before putting the hardi backer on.
Can you do a video on water absorption rate for tile? What tiles to use in showers given their water absorption rates. Maybe even an experiment with tile with high absorption rates submerge in water compared to tiles with low absorption rates, etc.
We have a 3 inches wall. Can we install a diverter?
Kudos for showing all of that , mistakes included
How is called extension? Do you have any link on that or similar product? Thank you!
Before I was a GC I was installing tile, a tile guy must learn basic plumbing such installing a valve an patching drywall if necessary. You can easily adjust a valve after you prepare your walls and prior installing tile.
A tile guy does not need to learn plumbing.... he needs to call the builder who can call the plumber. so they can can figure out the problem.... a tile guy shouldnt be playing with that valve at all....when it leaks in 2 months whose fault would that be?
@@rmbuilder1 I guess that’s why I have three licenses, I never settled in life...
@@boxing1940 License or not, the tile guy shouldn't be touching the plumbers valve
@@rmbuilder1 that’s a really mediocre mentally, a tile guy that works on showers must know and learn basic plumbing, this is not rocket science! I been in the industry more than 28 years and never once had a shower valve leak and if it leaks you fix it and learn from it! In life you need skills and the more skills you learn, the easier it becomes.
@@boxing1940 What does you being in the business 28 years and never having a valve leak have to do with the fact that the TILE guy should be setting tile and not screwing around with the plumbing? By the way, I've been in business over 33 years and have never had a valve leak....you know why? Because I am a builder and I don't screw around with someone else's work...
Issac how do you waterproof around that valve(thinking it’s the same as my Delta R22000)? Ie: traditional Valve Seals meant for single valves don’t work, thanks.
i used the square ara trim ,but same guts,thats nice about delta 3 or 6 position diverter cartridge,
Hey Tile Coach.U think I could send you a video of my upstairs bathroom that was renovated but it is leaking bad.And if u can give me a few scenarios what they did wrong.
What if a shower valve is set to high, sticks out to far from tile and doesn't allow trim kit to seal against tile? A riser plate of sorts to sit on top of the tile seems to be what I need, but I have no idea what you would call that.
If it’s one of those Amazon valves you can cut down the valve housing flush. If it’s a delta etc look into some square gasket material you can cut to size to make up for that gap! Good luck !
What depth would you recommend to place the face of plaster guard. When in doubt I usually go with 3/4" out from face of stud. I figure there's a 1/4" of tolerance either way so the tile guy can go with any size backer board standard tile size and all is well.
When you dig the grout out with a knife, doesn't that cut your membrane?
No
Why didn't you grout before you put the trim back on?
So I installed mine a bit too far out .Any suggestions?
If you build you niche when you're one tile away you can get a sweet lineup and lose the l cuts in a lot of applications
Good to see others rig shit like I do.....
I'm glad I bought all my Brizo fixtures last year. Almost had heart failure when I saw this bill!
I had to do this before coming behind someone with a crazy diverter.it wasn't easy but I had just got enough on shower head also
ive never seen a extension kit for delta r22000ws,
This is a JOKE! The guy is NOT a PRO only a utuber.
Any real contractor would have measured everything in advance before applying the backboard and tile. Along with allowing for the thinset wether it was an eighth inch or a quarter inch depth on it depending on the size of the tiles.
A real contractor would NOT have removed the grout before trying to adjust the valve and most of them would have went to the back wall and cut a hole in the drywall did it that way and then just patched the drywall. A lot easier and a lot quicker!
Maybe you could do a show on how to make your shower wand into a rain head by using an attachment on the ceiling. So you don't need extra Plumbing in the ceiling. Besides the wand has adjustments that rain heads don't.
do you happen to remember how long and wide the bathroom is? i think i pretty much have to exact same layout and size at home. and i would like to copy your design. but i am scared to corner of the shower will come to close to the vanity.
too bad you cut away the grout for no reason, but no biggie in the end!
9 times out of 10 you can just go to back side of wall and correct it. Simple drywall repair. Way better than busting tile or jacking up the escutcheon crooked.
Right that’s what I was thinking
What a SAVE!!!!! 🚀🚀🚀
Those guys do look better when rough in a little deep
You can do anything with spacers!!!
You guys got really lucky!
So remove the grout, then figure out you don’t need to, then install the handle and trim before regrouting. GOT IT! 😂
😂
i read my instructions ,and still got it wrong,luckily just buying longer screws fixed it,and the trim still fit well,but the mud ring shouldve been out about 3/8 in more
Ive had to pull screws and shim behind them to pull a valve forward before, luckily ive not had to tear out tile
i did need longer stainless screws also
In India, we simply screw in an extension nipple then attach the taps or shower heads.
You forgot to put that gasket piece with the plastic on it the screws into the plaster guard
Always try the simple things first.. Thats why Isaac starting razor blading the grout out before he loosened the bolts.....
What do you mean stops?
Maybe he was talking about a safety stop to keep the water below scalding temperatures.
I don't get it. Shouldn't those wall through parts get sealed specially on shower area behind the tiles? Maybe it's just confusing me cause here everything what is in bathroom is taked very seriously by waterproofing. All pass through wall items we seal those before tiles. Like if you seal doors and drain you could make it to pool safely. :)
Wow I just did this. Thank you
i did that wsR22000 delta
start simple as i say, not as I do.. lol
They’re on eBay now double cheap. I just checked
Well, at least I'm not the only one who struggles with this every other job with my plumber :)
Making sure the plumber is clear about the distance the finished wall is makes a big difference!
Teamwork makes a difference also. Plumber and tile person mainly. General contractor if one is involved.
If done in Pex should have some play.
All the vendors needs to be specific in small blueprint how the valves needs to be with finish surfaces
Doing a shower remodel now, Kohler is such a headache tho, but more of a headache is my client, changes their mind like a baby changes diapers!!! I know someone feels my pain!!
You didn't say what you would do if you weren't able to just pull it out.
yeah - happy it worked out for him but disappointed we didn't get to see the real job
Nice job
Seems like it would have fit with just longer screws
Time for home depot!... Story of my life..lol
I tapped the other side to have two screws for my inner trim. Otherwise it tweaks sideways.
Cant you get it 3d printed???
You can get guys in high value countries to model it (based off a picture and few dimensions so they can scale) and get it printed for a few bucks in the country your in... i have a printer for annoying diy jobs like this