This is a perfect video about setting rivets (at least for me). I've watched other videos but had trouble understanding them. Yours is so clear that I could follow it even if I was falling asleep. Thanks Matt.
WOW, am I lucky to have stumbled across your video. A rivet broke on my knife holster so I went out and bought a regular Arrow RH200 pop rivet gun for metal working. If I had used that to install a rivet it would have looked awful and had a big ugly dome on one side. I guess now I've got to do some Internet searching for LEATHER riveting tools and rivets and do the job properly according to your video. Thank goodness you posted this video.
Great tip to grind down the edges of the domed tool. I’ve experienced the problem of a ring indent in the leather around the rivet. That’s a great solution. Thanks!
I've ordered buckling wrist bands off of you and it's been 5 years and they are still going strong! Your products are top notch and just simply awesome! Be ordering more in the future.
Thanks for this video. My leather utility belt had a rivet snap off. Cheap belt. But I wanted to fix it if I could to hold me off from buying another. Glad this is a simple fix.
I bought a couple of anvils even a bit smaller than the one in this video, on clearance at Harbor Freight a few years ago. Not sure of their usefulness though, at that size. They may have been intended for small hobby work, or maybe just a novelty item?
I have not been able to find the exact size rivet setter for the size of my rivets. Purchasing the standard size and filing them down is a very clever idea. I will try to accurately measure the heads of all my rivets and the file the wide setter down to size. Excellent idea! Thank you.
Thanks Sean, The double cap is your gold standard for holding heavier material, compared to a single capped(tubular) rivet. For really heavy applications, you can switch from brass rivets, what I use, to copper rivets.
Thanks for watching! Ya those are essentially the same size and shape as a typical line 20 snap. For bigger rivets, you just get a bigger rounded tool.
I think it would depend how you're using them. You typically see copper rivets on denim because copper can handle being washed and it's harder than brass. If they're plated brass rivets and you're just doing it decoratively, there's probably no issue with it.
Stop me if I'm wrong, but you're missing a tool for double cap rivets here. The bottom one is flattening out against the anvil without another concave metal cast which came with my kit. Unfortunately it's hard to stop the rivet shaft bending and the top and bottom caps going offset while using this tool. I don't know what I'm doing wrong but it is hard to line everything up vertically and in the centre of the cast before hitting. Sometimes they are fine but most times they go offset after striking. I think the shaft might be too long as I definitely cannot set the rivet with just one strike of the hammer (needs several whacks). They are a good 2mm above the leather when I place the cap on. Thanks for the video
The reason for the top cap to stay concave is so there's room for the post to push into it. Since the lower cap and post are one unit, there's really no performance need to keep that curvature on the lower portion. Plus, flattening out the bottom makes it more flush with your material. Your posts are too long for your material, if the caps are getting off center from each other.
@@leatherpunk Thanks. I know there's no performance need of the concave cast on the stem side, but it's to retain a curved look on both sides. This is a look many people might want, and as it comes with the kit quite often (at least on Amazon UK) I thought it worth mentioning.
Hi! I'm working on a project right now with slightly thick leather but still within reason for the double cap rivets that I have, and I'm finding that when I try to set them it either -Doesn't go all the way in on one hit or -Bends the post completely out of shape. Does my aim/arm strength just suck? Is there anything I can do to make this work more consistently?
Just a guess, but it sounds like you're using a heavy mallet. It shouldn't weigh more than 1lb and should be rawhide, rubber, or something similar, not metal.
I have rivets on a pair of Prada sneakers I purchased. The rivets hold the Prada triangle logo in place. I ended up returning them because one of the rivets snapped off. I doubt this is the repair technique to repair the Prada triangle logo back in place. I think I'm going to return the other Prada sneakers that have the same rivets. I fear they may come off. The sneakers costs me $1070.
Great tutorial! I think this will work to connect old metal pieces together. I want the robots to look old not shiny. I guess there’s a way to make shiny rivets look rusty. Any ideas? Thanks again!
Only naked steel will rust. Rivets are seldom made from steel, usually brass, plus they're usually plated. But there are brass rivets with antique finishes, that's about as close to rust as you'll get. I use a chemical called Rusty Red-F to get a rust look from naked steel. You can see an example here on my site: www.leatherpunk.com/collections/belts/products/rusted-studded-belt I have a recipe to give it this look, each pyramid has a slight mix of non rusted silver and various hues of red,orange, brown, etc. Kinda reminds me of the beat up gear depicted in the original star wars films. It's quite a process, you expose it to the chemicals, then neutralize it and then seal it.
I use a regular hand held hole punch. It kinda looks like the concave tool, but with a fitting on the end. They come with different sized bits that you can screw in. You just eyeball it and test it out on a scrap until you find the bit that works best. Good luck!
Hi Matt, thanks for the great video. You make it look so easy!! I'm making some beaded dog leashes using my husband's discarded bass strings and trying to come up with an idea of how to attach a leather handle to one end of the leash and a snap clasp to the other. One end of the guitar string has a small ring that I can loop a small key chain type ring in and loop the clasp on that, but the other end is just wire that I need to figure out how to attach the leather handle to. Do you think the rivet process you used in this video would be useful to attach the leather handle/strap to the guitar wire? Any ideas about what size rivet and where I would get the tools and rivets? I'm brand new at this, but love the look of the leashes I've made so far. Thanks in advance for your advice...if you need photos to answer, just let me know how to send them to you.
That's creative! For using a rivet the way you describe, kinda like screwing the end of an electrical wire onto an outlet, pinching the bass string in between the rivet cap and the leather, probably won't work well. I might suggest using Chicago screws instead. Rivets are too soft for what you're trying to do, the Chicago screws are much harder...and you'll be able to keep the string on course while you gradually tighten the screw.
Hey I have a rivet snap button it looks like it's been weld in but it might just be riveted in. I'm trying to remove it but I need to save the button. So I can put the button in another pair of jeans. How can I remove this without. Messing up the integrity of the metal button. 🙆🏻
What is the best company to purchase single cap rivets? Specifically, 2.5mm x 5mm or 6mm long, black, single cap rivet. . I need to fasten a picture frame turn button to 3mm hardboard backer board. Thank you!
The fittings are going to be relatively universal, so it comes down to preference. Some machines' arms pull forward, some backward, others twist. Unless you're doing this for a living, or are a bit older and have a tough time with your hands, you probably can just get by with hand tools
You can do that, but it probably doesn't stop the smaller post caps from flattening out. The general purpose anvils do well for snaps, which are 12+ mm, but 5-7 mm rivet caps are too small to be affected by those particular anvils.
Some snaps need a full die set, with a specific anvil, and I believe the 633s are one of them, like this www.ebay.com/itm/Snap-Buttons-Dies-Mould-Set-For-655-633-831-Hand-Pressing-Machine-Spare-Parts-/382018618100
Awesome video! I have to ask though because I don't have one.. is the anvil necessary or will any smooth hard surface work as well? I want to avoid having to get an anvil if i can. Thanks!!
Andrea, the choice of hardware is really based on what you're trying to accomplish. The thing to remember is to match the right size hardware for your material. The material you're working with tends to dictate what the hardware is made out of. For example, on things that are machine washable, like denim, you use copper hardware, typically. Jeans are covered in copper rivets, that's what you see around the front pockets.
@@valentepolanco34 for small projects, you can snip off a little bit of the post and reshape it, but if you're doing it on a regular basis, def find the right sized posts for your project. Good luck!
Yes, you can, but depending on your project, there may be better hardware options than rivets. Most rivets are meant for leather and are probably too long for canvas, people usually use grommets on canvas. If you do use rivets, make sure that the barrel length isn't much longer than your total canvas thickness, but again, I think you'll have a hard time finding rivets suited for canvas projects....that being said, there is a way to hand modify your rivets to make it work, you can snip off the ends and reshape them, takes time, but it does work well.
Hi there, I have a project I want to work, and this is the closest I've come so far to finding a way to do it. I'm trying to find a way to add a domed piece of metal to a leather belt. Something similar to a domed or dapped coin. Do you know of any techniques where i might be able to secure it to the leather without ruining the domed shape? Thanks!
Hey! You could drill a hole in the center of the coin, set the rivets through the hole. When you hit the rivet, if the coin is on the bottom, it will still keep its shape. If you have pics you can send them to matt@leatherpunk.com and I'll take a look.
Question: The rivets I got are pyramid with a small screw hole on the bottom (for the other end obviously). Now the tricky part is the screw-on side of the rivet is completely flat yet the actual nail is a “twist-on” screw… like a flathead screw. Kinda hard to explain but how would I apply it? Is it the same concept? Edit: What tools should I use? I’m doing this for a purse
I would just push up on the post with my finger while twisting/tightening the pyramid. You could also dab some Barge adhesive into the pyramid so that it seals for good. Or you could find regular screws that fit it.
It depends on the exact piece, but generally Conchos are more like setting tubular (single cap) rivets. Sometimes you need a matching anvil for the concho to rest in during setting.
@@justingayman1704 if that conchos will lay flat with the post up, you can probably set it like a double capped, if that second piece is a cap. If the conchos isn't flat, you'll need a matching die to hold it in place.
Thanks! It's a 1 ft square slab, standard for leather work. I acquired it locally at a leather shop 10+ years ago, and I would suggest you try to find it in your area before ordering it through the mail(because of the weight), but if you can't, Tandy Leather sells it.
I can't believe it has been 4 years since I last posted and am now finally getting around to working on that quick open folding knife holster. I was ready to buy some double cap copper or brass rivets from Amazon and then ran across your video again. At the 2:00 mark you show the barrel of your rivet being filled in and rounded. The rivets on Amazon are rounded but there is still a small hole at the top. Does that matter much? If it does then where can I buy the rivets you show. And, with your rivet, is the whole barrel body filled in or is it hollow? Final question, should I use copper or brass rivets? Is one better than the other?
To protect the rivet cap(not face), you mean? No, that would not be necessary or recommended. The anvil face is very smooth and does not cause abrasions. Cushioning your strike would likely result in a poorly set rivet.
Really looking forward to your videos especially the removal of solid brass double cap rivets. Also interested in where to buy solid brass double cap rivets please.
@@leatherpunk I managed to find some tubular steel ones nearer to home that should do the trick nicely , thanks for the help i very much appreciate it .
I'm not sure what a leather deck box looks like, but anything boxy can be a problem for setting corners. You may have to use alternative bonding methods, ie. sewing, or adhesives.
Use a pin punch as an extension, or a long machine bolt. www.amazon.com/Stanley-16-226-Piece-Punch-Kit/dp/B000NIBFSK www.acemitchell.com/Pinsetter-Parts-Plus/PPPBLSRK.html
Cool now you called them double capped rivets for over 15 years ice been wearing Cistom made fiberglass and leather leg braves to walk all the people that build the braves and attach the Velcro and leather straps to the brave call them Speedy Eivets Same thing ?? Btw a hobby of mine is sewing heavy Vinyl and Canvass for Auto interiors and Boat Canvas and Vinyl and the setting tool looks like the one i use for doing snaps i use for boat covers
This is a perfect video about setting rivets (at least for me). I've watched other videos but had trouble understanding them. Yours is so clear that I could follow it even if I was falling asleep. Thanks Matt.
Glad you find it useful, Mike, thanks for watching!
Just love the cute little Barbie Dream House anvil !
WOW, am I lucky to have stumbled across your video. A rivet broke on my knife holster so I went out and bought a regular Arrow RH200 pop rivet gun for metal working. If I had used that to install a rivet it would have looked awful and had a big ugly dome on one side. I guess now I've got to do some Internet searching for LEATHER riveting tools and rivets and do the job properly according to your video. Thank goodness you posted this video.
Thanks, glad you found it useful!
Nice work Matt! Thanks!
You bet!
Great tip to grind down the edges of the domed tool. I’ve experienced the problem of a ring indent in the leather around the rivet. That’s a great solution. Thanks!
Thanks, glad it helped!
This has helped clear up some questions I had, I'm making a replica of the Sutton Hoo belt
I've ordered buckling wrist bands off of you and it's been 5 years and they are still going strong! Your products are top notch and just simply awesome! Be ordering more in the future.
Thank you so much for sharing that, glad they're holding up! I love hearing from old customers, stay in touch!
Thanks, Matt, today I had to replace a belt buckle, I had an assortment of rivets and your video explained the way to go.
Top video matey.
O.M.G.! Thank you for the tip about grinding down the cap. Frustrated newbie here.
Thanks for this video. My leather utility belt had a rivet snap off. Cheap belt. But I wanted to fix it if I could to hold me off from buying another. Glad this is a simple fix.
That is the most god damned adorable lil anvil I've ever seen.
Thanks! Yep, it does the job!
I saw it and said "awwwwww!"
I bought a couple of anvils even a bit smaller than the one in this video, on clearance at Harbor Freight a few years ago.
Not sure of their usefulness though, at that size. They may have been intended for small hobby work, or maybe just a novelty item?
shawbros I got mine at hf too and I use it all the time especially in jewelry making. 💙
Lol
Great tip on rounding the concave setter to avoid marking the surrounding leather. Thank you!
I've been searching for a video like this for over an hour. Thank you so much for uploading such helpful content!
Thankyou so much. I'm fixing a leather purse strap and I need rivets for the project. This was very helpful. 👍
Thanks for making such an easy to follow & concise video about setting rivets.
I've been looking how to do this and as first I didn't even know what to search for !
So thanks.
I have not been able to find the exact size rivet setter for the size of my rivets. Purchasing the standard size and filing them down is a very clever idea. I will try to accurately measure the heads of all my rivets and the file the wide setter down to size. Excellent idea! Thank you.
Thanks!
Thanks for that informative tutorial! 😊🌸
Simple and easy to follow, and clear video. Good tip about the concave tools.
My pleasure!
Very helpful video. Thanks!!!
Thank you so much!! Filing was capital clue.
Great, clear tutorial! Thanks!
Matt, great tutorial!
Thank you!
Clear concise thanks!
Awesome video bub
Truly riveting video.
Thanks!
👍🏻thank you for the help
If you don't have a baby anvil, take a metal dumbbell and stand it on end. Makes a fine improvised anvil.
Good video man
Thank you so much 🙏❤
Thanks leather daddy!
Thanks man
Thanks for the tutorial. first time to see double cap rivets. is there a way to remove double cap rivets? thanks again. liked & subscribed .
Great video.
I'm trying to find a video on setting the star stud rivets . I'm thinking it's exactly the same way as your doing here.
Some stars use a center post, others have prongs, so it depends.
@@leatherpunk cheers for responding .
Love your video and the anvil 2👍
Thank Matt
Awesome thanks
how do you keep from flattening the back of the double cap rivet. I need both sides to be rounded.
Use a concave anvil.
Matt, question, which rivet type do find to be more durable holding multiple layers of material together? Thanks for the video.
Thanks Sean, The double cap is your gold standard for holding heavier material, compared to a single capped(tubular) rivet. For really heavy applications, you can switch from brass rivets, what I use, to copper rivets.
I never seen those split rivies before. I thought the setter for them was only for line 20 snaps & etc. Thank You.
Thanks for watching! Ya those are essentially the same size and shape as a typical line 20 snap. For bigger rivets, you just get a bigger rounded tool.
Can i use rivets for making pvc vynil clear bag??
You should be able to, but make sure your posts are matched to the thickness of your material.
Do you think the double cap ones would be fine for the jean jacket im making?
I think it would depend how you're using them. You typically see copper rivets on denim because copper can handle being washed and it's harder than brass. If they're plated brass rivets and you're just doing it decoratively, there's probably no issue with it.
Does this work for leather keychain as well
Yes, it sure can.
Stop me if I'm wrong, but you're missing a tool for double cap rivets here. The bottom one is flattening out against the anvil without another concave metal cast which came with my kit.
Unfortunately it's hard to stop the rivet shaft bending and the top and bottom caps going offset while using this tool. I don't know what I'm doing wrong but it is hard to line everything up vertically and in the centre of the cast before hitting. Sometimes they are fine but most times they go offset after striking. I think the shaft might be too long as I definitely cannot set the rivet with just one strike of the hammer (needs several whacks). They are a good 2mm above the leather when I place the cap on. Thanks for the video
The reason for the top cap to stay concave is so there's room for the post to push into it. Since the lower cap and post are one unit, there's really no performance need to keep that curvature on the lower portion. Plus, flattening out the bottom makes it more flush with your material.
Your posts are too long for your material, if the caps are getting off center from each other.
@@leatherpunk Thanks. I know there's no performance need of the concave cast on the stem side, but it's to retain a curved look on both sides. This is a look many people might want, and as it comes with the kit quite often (at least on Amazon UK) I thought it worth mentioning.
Thank you!
You bet!
Hi! I'm working on a project right now with slightly thick leather but still within reason for the double cap rivets that I have, and I'm finding that when I try to set them it either
-Doesn't go all the way in on one hit
or
-Bends the post completely out of shape.
Does my aim/arm strength just suck? Is there anything I can do to make this work more consistently?
Just a guess, but it sounds like you're using a heavy mallet. It shouldn't weigh more than 1lb and should be rawhide, rubber, or something similar, not metal.
I have rivets on a pair of Prada sneakers I purchased. The rivets hold the Prada triangle logo in place. I ended up returning them because one of the rivets snapped off. I doubt this is the repair technique to repair the Prada triangle logo back in place. I think I'm going to return the other Prada sneakers that have the same rivets. I fear they may come off. The sneakers costs me $1070.
Great tutorial! I think this will work to connect old metal pieces together. I want the robots to look old not shiny. I guess there’s a way to make shiny rivets look rusty. Any ideas? Thanks again!
Only naked steel will rust. Rivets are seldom made from steel, usually brass, plus they're usually plated. But there are brass rivets with antique finishes, that's about as close to rust as you'll get. I use a chemical called Rusty Red-F to get a rust look from naked steel. You can see an example here on my site: www.leatherpunk.com/collections/belts/products/rusted-studded-belt
I have a recipe to give it this look, each pyramid has a slight mix of non rusted silver and various hues of red,orange, brown, etc. Kinda reminds me of the beat up gear depicted in the original star wars films. It's quite a process, you expose it to the chemicals, then neutralize it and then seal it.
Hi there great video. When making the hole before inserting the rivet
How do you know the size of the hole?
And what do you use?
I use a regular hand held hole punch. It kinda looks like the concave tool, but with a fitting on the end. They come with different sized bits that you can screw in. You just eyeball it and test it out on a scrap until you find the bit that works best. Good luck!
@@leatherpunk thanks bro.
Hi Matt, thanks for the great video. You make it look so easy!! I'm making some beaded dog leashes using my husband's discarded bass strings and trying to come up with an idea of how to attach a leather handle to one end of the leash and a snap clasp to the other. One end of the guitar string has a small ring that I can loop a small key chain type ring in and loop the clasp on that, but the other end is just wire that I need to figure out how to attach the leather handle to. Do you think the rivet process you used in this video would be useful to attach the leather handle/strap to the guitar wire? Any ideas about what size rivet and where I would get the tools and rivets? I'm brand new at this, but love the look of the leashes I've made so far. Thanks in advance for your advice...if you need photos to answer, just let me know how to send them to you.
That's creative! For using a rivet the way you describe, kinda like screwing the end of an electrical wire onto an outlet, pinching the bass string in between the rivet cap and the leather, probably won't work well. I might suggest using Chicago screws instead. Rivets are too soft for what you're trying to do, the Chicago screws are much harder...and you'll be able to keep the string on course while you gradually tighten the screw.
Hi , what do you call the first rivet you set ?
Hey I have a rivet snap button it looks like it's been weld in but it might just be riveted in. I'm trying to remove it but I need to save the button. So I can put the button in another pair of jeans. How can I remove this without. Messing up the integrity of the metal button. 🙆🏻
Rivets are not reusable.
Great video. Is there any consideration for quality of rivets? There are a thousand options on Amazon and I'm worried some of them would fall a part
Thanks. Check Tandy Leather. Anywhere but Amazon.
Thank you.
Thanks for watching!
Hi where can I buy doble caps I need for .my londry car thx
Try Etsy or Tandy
What is the best company to purchase single cap rivets? Specifically, 2.5mm x 5mm or 6mm long, black, single cap rivet. . I need to fasten a picture frame turn button to 3mm hardboard backer board. Thank you!
Try Tandy leather.
@@leatherpunk Thank You Matt
what press can I get that is compatible with rivet, snap button, grommet, & stud setting dies? :D or is it necessary to buy multiple presses
The fittings are going to be relatively universal, so it comes down to preference. Some machines' arms pull forward, some backward, others twist. Unless you're doing this for a living, or are a bit older and have a tough time with your hands, you probably can just get by with hand tools
@@leatherpunk going to b makng tons of studded leather accessories Nd garments in general
@@BLNTSMK Stud setting has its own foot operated machine. The rest you can do with a table top press.
Where can I get snaps with longer shafts for thicker leather?
Ken, this video is about rivets, but anybody selling a good variety of snaps will have the L version. L for long. Try Tandy.
Aren't you supposed to use the concave anvil underneath the river to stop it from flattening on the other side?
You can do that, but it probably doesn't stop the smaller post caps from flattening out. The general purpose anvils do well for snaps, which are 12+ mm, but 5-7 mm rivet caps are too small to be affected by those particular anvils.
@@leatherpunk Thanks for explaining that. I never got on with rivets when I did leatherwork, but I need to use them soon for a project.
What size of rivet setter to use for 10mm snap button? Is it the 633 setter? Thanks in advance..
Some snaps need a full die set, with a specific anvil, and I believe the 633s are one of them, like this www.ebay.com/itm/Snap-Buttons-Dies-Mould-Set-For-655-633-831-Hand-Pressing-Machine-Spare-Parts-/382018618100
Are single rivets best for thinner materials? The posts are sometimes too long on double cap. 😅
Yes, those double capped rivets aren't great for thin stuff, the single cap works better.
Awesome video! I have to ask though because I don't have one.. is the anvil necessary or will any smooth hard surface work as well? I want to avoid having to get an anvil if i can. Thanks!!
Thanks. You can get by without the anvil, but it should be a metal surface.
Sir, is there away to get aluminum rivet like this, if so can you tell me, i am making a chirava tongue for riveting please help ok sir😊🤝
My supplier does not offer these in aluminum, and I am not aware of other options, sorry.
@@leatherpunk it's okay sir😊 how much the rivet like you show in the video will cost per kg
Is there any way to remove plastic ones without damaging anything?
Drill it out.
Im a newbie. What tool do I need to make the holes???
It's called a leather hole punch.
So, rivets for leather, grommets for canvas, what about for denim or other materials pants are made of?
Andrea, the choice of hardware is really based on what you're trying to accomplish. The thing to remember is to match the right size hardware for your material. The material you're working with tends to dictate what the hardware is made out of. For example, on things that are machine washable, like denim, you use copper hardware, typically. Jeans are covered in copper rivets, that's what you see around the front pockets.
@@leatherpunk thanks that’s really helpful
Is there a way i can prevent my rivets from bending in the leather?
Your rivets are too long for your material, if the post is bending and your caps are off set from each other.
@@leatherpunk that may be it, i appriciate the response thanos got to go look for smaller ones
@@valentepolanco34 for small projects, you can snip off a little bit of the post and reshape it, but if you're doing it on a regular basis, def find the right sized posts for your project. Good luck!
@leatherpunk I had that problem till I bought a rivet and grommet press. It is perfectly aligned. No more crooked rivets.
how much leather can fit in between these?
About 14 oz. weight worth of leather.
@@leatherpunk thank you !
How well would that double rivet work for heavy canvas?
Yes, you can, but depending on your project, there may be better hardware options than rivets. Most rivets are meant for leather and are probably too long for canvas, people usually use grommets on canvas. If you do use rivets, make sure that the barrel length isn't much longer than your total canvas thickness, but again, I think you'll have a hard time finding rivets suited for canvas projects....that being said, there is a way to hand modify your rivets to make it work, you can snip off the ends and reshape them, takes time, but it does work well.
Hi there,
I have a project I want to work, and this is the closest I've come so far to finding a way to do it.
I'm trying to find a way to add a domed piece of metal to a leather belt.
Something similar to a domed or dapped coin.
Do you know of any techniques where i might be able to secure it to the leather without ruining the domed shape?
Thanks!
Hey! You could drill a hole in the center of the coin, set the rivets through the hole. When you hit the rivet, if the coin is on the bottom, it will still keep its shape. If you have pics you can send them to matt@leatherpunk.com and I'll take a look.
My rivets keep coming apart, and tips?
Your posts probably aren't long enough for your material.
@@leatherpunk ive discovered I was treating them too delicately and not hitting hard enough
Question: The rivets I got are pyramid with a small screw hole on the bottom (for the other end obviously). Now the tricky part is the screw-on side of the rivet is completely flat yet the actual nail is a “twist-on” screw… like a flathead screw. Kinda hard to explain but how would I apply it? Is it the same concept?
Edit: What tools should I use? I’m doing this for a purse
I would just push up on the post with my finger while twisting/tightening the pyramid. You could also dab some Barge adhesive into the pyramid so that it seals for good. Or you could find regular screws that fit it.
would this work with rivet style conchos
It depends on the exact piece, but generally Conchos are more like setting tubular (single cap) rivets. Sometimes you need a matching anvil for the concho to rest in during setting.
@@leatherpunk ok thanks was just wondering because I have small diamond shaped conchos but they come with two parts
@@justingayman1704 if that conchos will lay flat with the post up, you can probably set it like a double capped, if that second piece is a cap. If the conchos isn't flat, you'll need a matching die to hold it in place.
@@leatherpunk ok thanks
Wonderful video! Where did you get your slab and what size is it?
Thanks! It's a 1 ft square slab, standard for leather work. I acquired it locally at a leather shop 10+ years ago, and I would suggest you try to find it in your area before ordering it through the mail(because of the weight), but if you can't, Tandy Leather sells it.
why does the rivet head not get marred on the anvil?
If the anvil surface is beat up and not smooth, it will scuff the lower post cap indeed. Sometimes with cheap rivets, the plating will flake off also.
I can't believe it has been 4 years since I last posted and am now finally getting around to working on that quick open folding knife holster. I was ready to buy some double cap copper or brass rivets from Amazon and then ran across your video again. At the 2:00 mark you show the barrel of your rivet being filled in and rounded. The rivets on Amazon are rounded but there is still a small hole at the top. Does that matter much? If it does then where can I buy the rivets you show. And, with your rivet, is the whole barrel body filled in or is it hollow? Final question, should I use copper or brass rivets? Is one better than the other?
That little hole at the end of the post doesn't affect things. Copper is harder than brass, great if the material is heavy, lots of layers.
I'd probably use some type of cloth material on that anvil to protect the face of the rivets from scratches,or nicks
To protect the rivet cap(not face), you mean? No, that would not be necessary or recommended. The anvil face is very smooth and does not cause abrasions. Cushioning your strike would likely result in a poorly set rivet.
Very nice demo. But.. Where the heck can I buy rivets!? Can't find a well equipped rivet supplier in America.. grrr
For small quantities, use Tandy or Springfield Leather.
How to remove badly set rivets from leather dog collars and leads?
I'm working on a part two for this video which will include rivet removal as well.
Really looking forward to your videos especially the removal of solid brass double cap rivets. Also interested in where to buy solid brass double cap rivets please.
@@disco324 Tandy Leather
Where can i get single cap rivets ? All i can find is double cap rivets .
They're sometimes called open post rivets, Tandy sells them
@@leatherpunk I've just checked with Tandy and they've not got any , i'll just keep looking , thanks 👍👍👍
Try Springfield leather
@@leatherpunk I managed to find some tubular steel ones nearer to home that should do the trick nicely , thanks for the help i very much appreciate it .
Is this how you would rivet fabric like webbing?
Probably not, you'll want something with a short barrel and a wide diameter cap.
How can i set rivets in a corner? Where i cant get my hammer in?
I'd have to see your situation to know for sure.
its a leather deck box
I'm not sure what a leather deck box looks like, but anything boxy can be a problem for setting corners. You may have to use alternative bonding methods, ie. sewing, or adhesives.
there is a rivvet squeezer im looking at but that is way over my price range i was looking for somthing a bit more compact and cheep
Use a pin punch as an extension, or a long machine bolt.
www.amazon.com/Stanley-16-226-Piece-Punch-Kit/dp/B000NIBFSK
www.acemitchell.com/Pinsetter-Parts-Plus/PPPBLSRK.html
How to setup decorative chineese rivets with gemstone cup?:))
Not sure unless I see them, but those are usually held with two prongs, so it's probably more like setting studs than rivets.
i used to shoot rivets on airplanes,i guess i can handle this.
ok cool
Cool now you called them double capped rivets for over 15 years ice been wearing Cistom made fiberglass and leather leg braves to walk all the people that build the braves and attach the Velcro and leather straps to the brave call them Speedy Eivets Same thing ?? Btw a hobby of mine is sewing heavy Vinyl and Canvass for Auto interiors and Boat Canvas and Vinyl and the setting tool looks like the one i use for doing snaps i use for boat covers
Hii
Hi
Hi! I'm late to the party but I'm curious if i can set rivets without those tools and minimal damage?
Without a concave tool and a rawhide mallet, you'll struggle. You can supplement your work surface, anvil.