LOL on using the lifetime warranty on the part. I'm starting to do a better job of keeping track of where I'm buying my parts for this very reason. Love these videos Al.
@@aracing True - but don't let them know what your application is. Pretty sure racing is excluded. Can you make a video on how to inspect the Penske shock for leaks v. weeping? Gonna be a while before I procure "tow shocks" - LOL.
Hi there, First I want to thank you for your videos they very helpful. The other thing is I did a complete suspension refeb to my mx5 N1 1992 import, that's include complete set of bushes, new tie rods etc, the problem I am having now is alignment, as first time I haven't done the mesurments right !! 😀 we learn from mistakes. So now my wheel is touching the lower arm when turning to full 😒, I am sure it's to do with inner tie rod alignment? I appreciate if you could advise me with that . By the way it's the driver side wich is the right side as am from the UK. Thank you
Any reservations with using the nyloc nut vs castle nut and cotter pin on top of the tie rod end? I always just intuitively thought that nyloc nut would be subject to a lot of twisting forces that could force the tie rod end loose, or even lead to the nut popping loose. I know many tie rod end kits come with nyloc nuts but I wondered what you thought since your cars see track use and are no doubt driven quite hard.
I did at first till I put them on my friend Dions car ( what did I have to lose)and he lived so I use them. I have never had a problem with them in the several years I have been using them.
@@aracing great to know-thanks. I slapped some cheap tie rod ends (not a track car) on mine but couldn’t get it out of my head, and ended up switching to a drilled and pinned set. Glad to know they don’t give you issues since you undoubtedly push the cars harder than I do
Great video! And that HF light bar is awesome, I have 2 of them 😎 another quick question: should the nut on tie rod outer end be torqued down if there is ideally abundant time to work on it?
I have the same problem, same car same side, mine iis leaking fluid, what do i need to do? Replace the whole rack?? Or can it be fixed? Any information is appreciated
LOL on using the lifetime warranty on the part. I'm starting to do a better job of keeping track of where I'm buying my parts for this very reason. Love these videos Al.
Hey this stuff is expensive. I try to buy all my parts from one place so I just take them back there.
@@aracing True - but don't let them know what your application is. Pretty sure racing is excluded. Can you make a video on how to inspect the Penske shock for leaks v. weeping? Gonna be a while before I procure "tow shocks" - LOL.
I have a trackday coming up and I was just about to take it to the shop to have this done! I love your videos! Thanks!
Boy did I save you a ton of money
@@aracing You sure did!!
Hi there,
First I want to thank you for your videos they very helpful. The other thing is I did a complete suspension refeb to my mx5 N1 1992 import, that's include complete set of bushes, new tie rods etc, the problem I am having now is alignment, as first time I haven't done the mesurments right !! 😀 we learn from mistakes. So now my wheel is touching the lower arm when turning to full 😒, I am sure it's to do with inner tie rod alignment? I appreciate if you could advise me with that .
By the way it's the driver side wich is the right side as am from the UK.
Thank you
once again, another amazing video. Thanks Al
Thanks again!
Any reservations with using the nyloc nut vs castle nut and cotter pin on top of the tie rod end? I always just intuitively thought that nyloc nut would be subject to a lot of twisting forces that could force the tie rod end loose, or even lead to the nut popping loose. I know many tie rod end kits come with nyloc nuts but I wondered what you thought since your cars see track use and are no doubt driven quite hard.
I did at first till I put them on my friend Dions car ( what did I have to lose)and he lived so I use them. I have never had a problem with them in the several years I have been using them.
@@aracing great to know-thanks. I slapped some cheap tie rod ends (not a track car) on mine but couldn’t get it out of my head, and ended up switching to a drilled and pinned set. Glad to know they don’t give you issues since you undoubtedly push the cars harder than I do
@@aracing Wait, what?!
Great video! And that HF light bar is awesome, I have 2 of them 😎 another quick question: should the nut on tie rod outer end be torqued down if there is ideally abundant time to work on it?
Do you mean the one that locks the tie rod after the alignment? If thats the one we just tighten them to tight. Dont over do it and strip the threads.
@@aracing Thanks for reply! I meant the one your unbolt first and it “spins”
Love Al’s videos. I am hooked. But its a Cotter pin like “Welcome Back Cotter”, not a Carter pin.
ya ya ya, Its my northern Cali accent.
I have the same problem, same car same side, mine iis leaking fluid, what do i need to do? Replace the whole rack?? Or can it be fixed? Any information is appreciated
It depends how worn out it is, but normally it's cheaper to replace it rather than try to fix it.
hey al