I've not heard of adding BLO to paste wax before... very cool tip - thank you! =) Here are two tips for you in return: 1) Put BLO in an old squeeze container like honey, chocolate syrup, ketchup, etc. It'll pour much better than from those rotten cans. 2) If you apply your wax with a scotch brite pad instead of a rag, you'll get a better job and things will slide better. (Tried it a few years ago & will never go back.)
Cool biz Brad. I use Boiled Linseed oil on my ax and other wood handled tools and Johnson's Paste wax on my table saw, router table, band saw table and finished furniture but I never thought of mixing the two together. Very kewl and thanks for sharing an awesome tip. Who says y'all can't teach an old dog like me new tricks. Cheers!
The wax and the combination with linseed may be thinned with paint thinner, which is the same thing a diesel fuel (without any additives,) "coal oil," and "lamp oil." Mineral spirits same thing. There is oil/fat, and then there is water. They do not mix, except in salad dressings.
Thanks for the great tips, you may also want to consider Using a heat gun and warm wax while on surface after applying and you will get superb results and penetration.
@@BradsWorkbench . try it. apply the wax on surface. ignore any lumps . apply lots , then heat with heat gun until all clumps dissolve and spread with cloth on surface or wipe . then buff. you will find superior adhesion.
Just bought an aluminum top jobsite table saw and looking to use Johnsons paste wax or something like it. How would your mixture work on aluminum ? I'm wanting it protected and slippery.
Water proof.... no. But it does help to repel moisture or at least creates a barrier between water and metal. Yes, it does need reapplied. You'll be able to tell when its time. Thanks swingin by 👍
@@BradsWorkbench You have to add heat, as well. BLO is the single best rust protector I've used. Two negatives: It can take as long as 3 months to cure without heat, and it darkens the metal. The latter can be a positive attribute depending on one's taste. It kinda gives the look of steel tools found in a blacksmith shop.
Past Wax already contains BLO... You're just thinning it a wee bit more... Which works much better for this particular task... Often adjusting the ratio will better suit it to a particular task... Paste Wax is wonderful stuff... Traditional Paste Wax simply contains Beeswax, BLO, & Mineral Spirits or Turpentine... You can make it from scratch yourself, and adjust the ratio o' any o' the 3 ingredients to better suit, a specific task... To make it a better Lubricant, increase BLO(Like you did in the video)... If you want it to dry into a harder surface finish, Increase Beeswax & Mineral Spirits...
Paste wax is just wax + oil. Adding blo makes it a thinner better penetrating paste. I usually for a soft paste will use 50g of beeswax to 150g of walnut oil or blo depending on what the paste wax will be used for. Just dump the ingredients into a cheap or unwanted pot and heat until the wax melts then pour it into a glass/metal container. Very easy to make customised waxes for your projects. More wax in the ratio makes it harder less makes it softer.
@@BradsWorkbench Abrasive paste is a 4:1:1 ratio by weight of Oil, Wax and an abrasive powder of choice such as pumice powder or diatomaceous earth. Made the same way as a very soft paste wax but you have to stir the abrasive in as cools so that it doesn't settle on the bottom.
My guess is it would stay greasy feeling since MO never dries/cures which could be good for reducing friction but might leave ur project a little greasy feeling. Could be worth a try tho. Just try it on a small area first and see what u think
Hi. I need your help. I have raw steel camprie legs and I need to protect them but keep that matte industrial look with no sheen or shine. Will doing this method create thus protection and keep it industrial Matt looking for me. I'm worried. I don't want to ruin the raw steel flat matte look.
Should work.... can also spray with a matte lacquer. 1-2 coats would protect with looking like a plastic build up. Always best to test on piece of scrap tho
@@BradsWorkbench hi. I used rustoleum 2x Primer and matte clear. Sprayed 2 coats. You couldn't even tell I applied anything. It worked perfectly. 😊 thanks
Boeing’s Beoshield is better than wax because, once dry, it won’t transfer to subsequent work or inhibit finishing ability. Even small amounts of wax under a finish can cause fisheyes so be very sure you’ve really rubbed out any wax on surfaces where it could transfer to other work.
How many times do you cut an item on a saw then go straight to finishing? Never once had an issue with that and I use wax on the bottom of my planes as well. Do what works for you but dont put out false information based upon speculation, that helps nobody
@@BradsWorkbench It isn’t false information, it has been published in Fine Woodworking and other magazines. It does depend a great deal on how careful you are when applying the wax, what kind of wax you use and how you work, what stage your project is in etc. I’ve been building furniture for 45 years and have found that the newer coatings like Beoshield last longer, have less friction and I have never had any issues with finishing after switching. By all means, do what you prefer but be open to other ways of doing things even if they seem at odds with what you do. I typically go right from a planed surface to finishing, no sanding, and my preferred finishing regimen is very sensitive to waxes, so I don’t use them. You’re free to disagree, everyone needs to find what works best for them.
I have not problem with boeshield or any other product. I only had a problem saying wax on a table saw will interfere with your final finish.... but not apparently its on a plane?!?!? Which i also do use wax on my planes (much less than needed on a table saw) and still havent had any issue with finishing. Many major woodworkers throughout youtube agree as well. AGAIN, do what works for you but dont try to sway people from not trying this because it interferes with your "sensitive final finish" or at the very least give more detail on the specific circumstance you had issues with so that people actually learn something
I wondered the same thing a few yrs ago when I first started waxing my cast iron top, sleds and such. Figured it couldn't possibly leach enough to make it through sanding or acetone wipe if for some reason I wasn't sanding. Never have had any issue. Now if u cake it on and leave a visible layer of wax...sure. u might be right. But anyone doing that probably isn't experienced enough to produce a quality finish anyway
@@BradsWorkbench thanks-great to know! I have a bunch of tung oil which I love but I want to play around with finishes and see what I like best. Your tip is excellent. Tung oil takes a while to soak in so I’m going to see about speeding that up with different mixtures.
Hi Brad, if I want to use this paste for smoothing my baby book shelf wood board, would that be okay? Considering kids may touch and lock the surface sometimes 😂
I wouldnt since danish oil usually has some sort of polyurethane in it as well. But never hurts to do a small test on something you dont care about too much
Hmmm.... its a solvent so in theory should thin down the existing oils within. I just dont know how it will interact with the wax. Make a small batch and let me know how that goes
Man you don't apply the wax and just leave it as is. In order to offer benefits as a lubricant it needs time to harden then it must be buffed. Wax, wait until it hazes over then buff with a clean soft cloth.
@@BradsWorkbench there's absolutely nothing wrong with not knowing something and anyone who says otherwise is mistaken. I was just trying to share some information where it appeared to be needed. If it feels better to tell me you let it dry and then buffed it then you're welcome to do just that. In the future I'll refrain from sharing with you what has been shared with me. Happy woodworking to you Brad.
At 3:51 it sure looks like you just finished applying the wax, and then immediately turn the sled over to test it, so I can understand the confusion lmao
Great video and awesome tips in the comment section, as well as some arseholes - I'm not sure what the purpose is of trolling a woodworking channel that's just trying to help ya... 🤔 Bur anyway.. Thanks Brad! 👍
@@BradsWorkbench I was given a doll bed that I want to refinish for my pets. I'm going to stain it and top coat it and make a new squishy mattress for my 11 year old bunny. Problem is he is all love and kisses his bed, a lot. I'm leaning towards a wax coat, as I know he's going to love it and kiss it a lot. I know I need to let it sit for at least 30 days after staining for the VOCs to dissipate, but won't wax attract fur and debris? Am I better to top coat it with poly and let that sit? I know it's asking a lot here, but is this paste wax or poly or beeswax, any of these safe for my bunny? If none of them are, I'll refinish it for my cat. 30 days should make it safe for her, eh? Think I should just keep it away from the bun?
If its something an animal might chew on, i wouldnt stain it as your instantly see a contrast in color. If i was finishing it id prob look at using a PURE tung oil, make sure it says PURE tung oil on the bottles because many cheap tung oil finishes are just expensive danish oil. I also make and sell my own food safe finish called Tung honey on etsy. Its made of only Pure tung oil, beeswax, and carnauba wax blend. No nasty chemicals. If ur interested message or email me and i can send some videos with more info
@@BradsWorkbench thanks Brad! My bunny doesn't have his incisors (front teeth) so he doesn't bite or chew on furniture, but he loves his beds and always kisses them (licking). So I'm not worried about colour contrast, just chemical/VOCs and ingestion via licks.
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Click here so you don't miss my woodworking tool reviews! m.th-cam.com/users/BradsWorkbench
Quick question. In your intro there's a light in an old box. What is that?
Heres a video that shows it more in depth 👍 th-cam.com/video/4y1ssbVAByI/w-d-xo.html
I've not heard of adding BLO to paste wax before... very cool tip - thank you! =) Here are two tips for you in return:
1) Put BLO in an old squeeze container like honey, chocolate syrup, ketchup, etc. It'll pour much better than from those rotten cans.
2) If you apply your wax with a scotch brite pad instead of a rag, you'll get a better job and things will slide better. (Tried it a few years ago & will never go back.)
Ive got the squeeze bottles but never tried the scotch brite pad. Will definitely give it a go
Thanks Ruler I am going to try the squeeze bottle trick 👍 👍
Awesome tips!
Paste wax applied with a scotchbrite is magic
Cool biz Brad. I use Boiled Linseed oil on my ax and other wood handled tools and Johnson's Paste wax on my table saw, router table, band saw table and finished furniture but I never thought of mixing the two together. Very kewl and thanks for sharing an awesome tip. Who says y'all can't teach an old dog like me new tricks. Cheers!
I do the same. Glad you enjoyed it
That's a great tip. I'm going to use it on my tools. I'm having trouble with tools rusting. Thanks for the tip!!!
Just watch on handles... night make them a little slick
Great tip man! Little things like that make the project/work that much easier and enjoyable.
Yes sir
Hello there. I used soap for the sleigh. That's a good idea. thank you....
Interesting
It's a sled. A sleigh is what Santa drives to bring you your Christmas shop tools :)
@@cannonball666 See you
Either works for me 👍😂
This is an awsome tip man! I will use it for my stuff too from now on! Thanks for the tip my friend!
Hope u enjoy it
Hey I have both of those things in my garage already!
Well there ya go 👍
Wow that was some epic stirring!
Thank you, ive been practicing 😉
Perfect. I was just wondering about this
Nice
The wax and the combination with linseed may be thinned with paint thinner, which is the same thing a diesel fuel (without any additives,) "coal oil," and "lamp oil." Mineral spirits same thing.
There is oil/fat, and then there is water. They do not mix, except in salad dressings.
Good to know
Love the transitional videos. Nice presentation.
Thanks
Thanks for the great tips, you may also want to consider Using a heat gun and warm wax while on surface after applying and you will get superb results and penetration.
Interesting idea
@@BradsWorkbench . try it. apply the wax on surface. ignore any lumps . apply lots , then heat with heat gun until all clumps dissolve and spread with cloth on surface or wipe . then buff. you will find superior adhesion.
@@John-oz1do Gonna try this, thanks for the idea!
@@John-oz1do i don't own a heat gun, but have a blow dryer.. think that'll do it? I'm gonna try it.
@@Bomber411 hair dryer or blow dryer will work too
Just bought an aluminum top jobsite table saw and looking to use Johnsons paste wax or something like it. How would your mixture work on aluminum ? I'm wanting it protected and slippery.
Wont act any differently than it did on the cast iron 👍
Would this work with a danish oil finish and Johnson’s paste wax? Or would the other additives mess with the wax?
I wouldnt... id be afraid of the poly setting up
I'll probably sound dumb asking this but I'll ask does this make it waterproof and if it does does it eventually need to be applied every so often?
Water proof.... no. But it does help to repel moisture or at least creates a barrier between water and metal. Yes, it does need reapplied. You'll be able to tell when its time. Thanks swingin by 👍
Was wondering if I could do this - thanks for making the vid 😁
Np
Great tip!! I’m going to keep this in mind when I bust out some wood projects!
Doooooo ittttt
👍Is it possible to cover wooden dishes with this wax?
I wouldnt consider it food safe
Worth a try.
Im betting u have both in your shop anyhow 👍
I heat my wax then apply it quickly which gives me time to buff it out kind of like waxing a car in fact sometimes i use the car buffer
I live in NZ and we don’t have much to choose from as far as paste wax goes. All the ones I’ve found are beeswax based. Is this ok for table saw tops?
Yes
I like to mix a little Astro Glide in mine.
Lmfao!
it took me a minute. In my head i was thinking, did he say what i think he said 🤔... yup he did! 🤣😂🤣😂
I use a lot of BLO (with metal), and never heard of this. Gonna try it. Tonight. Pretty curious.
What u do with it on metal?
@@BradsWorkbench You have to add heat, as well. BLO is the single best rust protector I've used. Two negatives: It can take as long as 3 months to cure without heat, and it darkens the metal. The latter can be a positive attribute depending on one's taste. It kinda gives the look of steel tools found in a blacksmith shop.
@@felixf5211 interesting. Ill have to give it a try
@@felixf5211 I wipe a coat of shellac with BLO mixed in on my steel lathe tools - doesn't darken them, but prevents rust.
Where did you complete your PHD, because you are a wax DOCTOR!
LMFAO! I dont even care if you're trying to be an asshole, thats funny!
Would be better than nothing at all 😄
Amazing. Will have to try it. Need more Brad’s workbench stickers.
I got u on the list for the next time im able to sit down and get some together. 👍
Brad wow that is awesome 👏.....a trade secret for sure😀
Just something i stumbled upon. I like experimenting lol
Thanks for sharing
No problem. Sorry it took a year to see this lol
Very cool 👍
Yes u are
Woodworker guacamole
Sweet tip
Thats what she said...... ohhh! 😂
Past Wax already contains BLO... You're just thinning it a wee bit more... Which works much better for this particular task... Often adjusting the ratio will better suit it to a particular task... Paste Wax is wonderful stuff... Traditional Paste Wax simply contains Beeswax, BLO, & Mineral Spirits or Turpentine... You can make it from scratch yourself, and adjust the ratio o' any o' the 3 ingredients to better suit, a specific task... To make it a better Lubricant, increase BLO(Like you did in the video)... If you want it to dry into a harder surface finish, Increase Beeswax & Mineral Spirits...
What is BLO?
"Boiled Linseed Oil"...
Paste wax is just wax + oil.
Adding blo makes it a thinner better penetrating paste.
I usually for a soft paste will use 50g of beeswax to 150g of walnut oil or blo depending on what the paste wax will be used for.
Just dump the ingredients into a cheap or unwanted pot and heat until the wax melts then pour it into a glass/metal container.
Very easy to make customised waxes for your projects. More wax in the ratio makes it harder less makes it softer.
Very cool.... i do want to experiment with making my own as well as abrasive pastes for turning.
@@BradsWorkbench Abrasive paste is a 4:1:1 ratio by weight of Oil, Wax and an abrasive powder of choice such as pumice powder or diatomaceous earth.
Made the same way as a very soft paste wax but you have to stir the abrasive in as cools so that it doesn't settle on the bottom.
@@andrewlawrence8024 thank you. I'm definitely gonna give it a try
You think mineral oil would act as a good substitute for the boiled linseed oil?
My guess is it would stay greasy feeling since MO never dries/cures which could be good for reducing friction but might leave ur project a little greasy feeling. Could be worth a try tho. Just try it on a small area first and see what u think
Linseed oil. I was half expecting vaseline or ky🙊
Let me know how that works out lol
Lol
Hi. I need your help. I have raw steel camprie legs and I need to protect them but keep that matte industrial look with no sheen or shine. Will doing this method create thus protection and keep it industrial Matt looking for me. I'm worried. I don't want to ruin the raw steel flat matte look.
Should work.... can also spray with a matte lacquer. 1-2 coats would protect with looking like a plastic build up. Always best to test on piece of scrap tho
@@BradsWorkbench hi. I used rustoleum 2x Primer and matte clear. Sprayed 2 coats. You couldn't even tell I applied anything. It worked perfectly. 😊 thanks
Boeing’s Beoshield is better than wax because, once dry, it won’t transfer to subsequent work or inhibit finishing ability. Even small amounts of wax under a finish can cause fisheyes so be very sure you’ve really rubbed out any wax on surfaces where it could transfer to other work.
How many times do you cut an item on a saw then go straight to finishing? Never once had an issue with that and I use wax on the bottom of my planes as well. Do what works for you but dont put out false information based upon speculation, that helps nobody
@@BradsWorkbench It isn’t false information, it has been published in Fine Woodworking and other magazines. It does depend a great deal on how careful you are when applying the wax, what kind of wax you use and how you work, what stage your project is in etc. I’ve been building furniture for 45 years and have found that the newer coatings like Beoshield last longer, have less friction and I have never had any issues with finishing after switching. By all means, do what you prefer but be open to other ways of doing things even if they seem at odds with what you do. I typically go right from a planed surface to finishing, no sanding, and my preferred finishing regimen is very sensitive to waxes, so I don’t use them. You’re free to disagree, everyone needs to find what works best for them.
I have not problem with boeshield or any other product. I only had a problem saying wax on a table saw will interfere with your final finish.... but not apparently its on a plane?!?!? Which i also do use wax on my planes (much less than needed on a table saw) and still havent had any issue with finishing. Many major woodworkers throughout youtube agree as well. AGAIN, do what works for you but dont try to sway people from not trying this because it interferes with your "sensitive final finish" or at the very least give more detail on the specific circumstance you had issues with so that people actually learn something
I wondered the same thing a few yrs ago when I first started waxing my cast iron top, sleds and such. Figured it couldn't possibly leach enough to make it through sanding or acetone wipe if for some reason I wasn't sanding. Never have had any issue. Now if u cake it on and leave a visible layer of wax...sure. u might be right. But anyone doing that probably isn't experienced enough to produce a quality finish anyway
@@BradsWorkbench touchy little Mary aren't you?
Cool idea 👍 😊
Thanks bud
This paste is terribly expensive here in Malaysia.
Could I use beeswax instead?
Sure could
@@BradsWorkbench Thank you, sir.
Consistently of peanut butter! Works great for me.
👍
How much does this affect dry time of the paste wax?
It does add a little to it but nothing significant that i noticed
? Yea I figured it does but you didn't answer the question I asked? How
@@turb0nasty887 i didnt put a stop watch on it. Thats the best answer i can give. You're welcome
Peanut butter is what it looks like. Thanks for the tip! What about tung oil?
Pure tung oil is around $75 gallon..... a bit pricey for this application imo but i do sell a tung oil + wax finish on my etsy
@@BradsWorkbench thanks-great to know! I have a bunch of tung oil which I love but I want to play around with finishes and see what I like best. Your tip is excellent.
Tung oil takes a while to soak in so I’m going to see about speeding that up with different mixtures.
Love boiled linseed oil! Hope your wife does not noticed the missing fork!
I think i got away with this one. She wasnt happy when i used her measuring cup to mix some epoxy tho lol
Or the tupperware
@@BradsWorkbench oi oi oi go to a second hand place and check out the housewares section! Lol
Nice!!!
Hi Brad, if I want to use this paste for smoothing my baby book shelf wood board, would that be okay? Considering kids may touch and lock the surface sometimes 😂
I personally wouldnt. But i do make/sell a completely food safe tung oil & wax blend on etsy. Search, "Tung Honey" and should come up
I wonder if you can mix it with danish oil?
I wouldnt since danish oil usually has some sort of polyurethane in it as well. But never hurts to do a small test on something you dont care about too much
@@BradsWorkbench I think i will .
Doesn't that leave an oily residue?
No, because you buff it off, also blo dries very quickly even if u miss a bit
Is it good for waxing testicles?
Only BALD NUTS!
@@BradsWorkbench smooth
Is simonize the same or similar to paste wax?
Great suggestion! One might also use pure flaxseed oil which is BLO without the chemical drying additives.
Definitely could be a good idea as well, especially if you want to extend the "wet" time
Flaxseed oil = gummy finish. Never dries.
It actually will cure it just takes alot longer than if it were polymerized
How would mineral spirits work?
Hmmm.... its a solvent so in theory should thin down the existing oils within. I just dont know how it will interact with the wax. Make a small batch and let me know how that goes
I need a food safe product for spoons...
Tung Honey is what I use on my carved spoons. Look it up on Etsy
What exactly is a linseed anyway
Flaxseeds
Man you don't apply the wax and just leave it as is. In order to offer benefits as a lubricant it needs time to harden then it must be buffed. Wax, wait until it hazes over then buff with a clean soft cloth.
No shit, exactly what i did
@@BradsWorkbench there's absolutely nothing wrong with not knowing something and anyone who says otherwise is mistaken. I was just trying to share some information where it appeared to be needed. If it feels better to tell me you let it dry and then buffed it then you're welcome to do just that. In the future I'll refrain from sharing with you what has been shared with me. Happy woodworking to you Brad.
Its also ok to say you're mistaken when an assumption you have made is incorrect. I literally use this shit daily at the shop i work in
@@BradsWorkbench that’s a hell of a chip on your shoulder.
At 3:51 it sure looks like you just finished applying the wax, and then immediately turn the sled over to test it, so I can understand the confusion lmao
Peanut butter and olive oil!
peanut butter cookie dough
Disgusting! I hate cookie dough! 🤢
Great video and awesome tips in the comment section, as well as some arseholes - I'm not sure what the purpose is of trolling a woodworking channel that's just trying to help ya... 🤔
Bur anyway.. Thanks Brad! 👍
Lol im use to it. No worries 🤙
@@BradsWorkbench I was given a doll bed that I want to refinish for my pets. I'm going to stain it and top coat it and make a new squishy mattress for my 11 year old bunny. Problem is he is all love and kisses his bed, a lot. I'm leaning towards a wax coat, as I know he's going to love it and kiss it a lot. I know I need to let it sit for at least 30 days after staining for the VOCs to dissipate, but won't wax attract fur and debris? Am I better to top coat it with poly and let that sit? I know it's asking a lot here, but is this paste wax or poly or beeswax, any of these safe for my bunny? If none of them are, I'll refinish it for my cat. 30 days should make it safe for her, eh? Think I should just keep it away from the bun?
If its something an animal might chew on, i wouldnt stain it as your instantly see a contrast in color. If i was finishing it id prob look at using a PURE tung oil, make sure it says PURE tung oil on the bottles because many cheap tung oil finishes are just expensive danish oil. I also make and sell my own food safe finish called Tung honey on etsy. Its made of only Pure tung oil, beeswax, and carnauba wax blend. No nasty chemicals. If ur interested message or email me and i can send some videos with more info
@@BradsWorkbench thanks Brad! My bunny doesn't have his incisors (front teeth) so he doesn't bite or chew on furniture, but he loves his beds and always kisses them (licking). So I'm not worried about colour contrast, just chemical/VOCs and ingestion via licks.
Does this tip add any color to a finish wood project?
A bit, but my homemade tung wax finish is better for that
Your thumb is moving 6”. No wonder the sled moves the same !!
If only there were a way for you to try it yourself rather than bitchin about dumb shit in a comment..... hmmmmm
Only wax I deal with is the stuff my wife smokes in her vaporizer 🤔
Thats beyond me, im all about good old fashioned lung cancer myself 😛 i dont know anything about the vap world
You know what else works? Peanut butter
Of course!
Wax on. Wax off
Your thumb is pushing 6” !
🤷♂️👍
Its not so great on pancakes
Lmfao 😝
Why wouldn't anyone believe that?
Cuz i'm secretly an industry plant placed into ur algorithum by big paste wax
Fake. You can see the strings. 😆
Busted
Looks like mashed carrots
Ewwww
Intro music made me throw up in my mouth a little.
Mission accomplished! But u may want to see a doctor soon about that
@@BradsWorkbench I did, he told me to stop watching your videos. I told him "but I like the taste of vomit"
@@sladeoriginal come back anytime u need ur fix
Annoying opening!
Annoying comment! 🤣😘
lose the sarcasm
No
“Not completely scientific”???? How about not scientific in any sense of the word???
Lol sure but it works. 🤷♂️ I bet you're a joy to bring to parties, ain't ya ol franky boy?
@@BradsWorkbench I’ve been known to light up a room. Hand me that torch would ya?
@@EarthnikNews lmfao ok now i kinda like u 😆