Hey hey Tinman, thank for showing the finicky one's. Was beginning to think that was only my curse. I used to make a living runnin saws, and at the time did all my repairs on a tailgate with what I had just hand tools. I wish I would have known then, what I think I know now. I have chased air leaks till I was crazy. Now I pressure test every thing every time, I've gotten to where for my own peace of mind it's worth it to me. Thanks for your porting knowledge, time, company and content....👍
The metal nipple on the replacement diaphragm may not be as long as the original. I've come across this before. The nipple on the diaphragm in the rebuild kit was shorter than oem and wouldn't push down far enough to open the needle.
I finally got my old 31 year old (1993) 026 running just perfect. I bought it for $150 USD from a guy who bought a 250 to replace it. Needed a lot of work, complete teardown and rebuild. After getting it together it bogged down in the cut. Even with no load, just sitting on the wood. Turned out that the coil is going bad but it had a bright blue spark. Same problem I had with a very old 039 I have. Getting an OEM coil would cost over $170 USD. So I took a chance and bought two Farmertec coils and now they run with power. No bog, cut so fast.
Yes a pressure test to the crankcase and also vacuum test would definitely give more insight. I've had cheap crank bearings and seals go out right after assembling the case. They also ran just the same as your saw. Very erratic. I do visit the Stihl shop for those things now so I cut more and fix less :-)
got an 026 a while back that was a bear to start cold if it would even start at all. eventually found that even though the master control lever was engaging the choke in the air filter, it wasn't engaging the throttle plate in the carb at all. once i found that out, if i put slight pressure on the trigger when starting it fired up like normal. found the master control lever had a broken tab on it. after i replaced that it's started up in 2-3 pulls ever since.
I know your pain on this one. I have an 024 that for years now I have to prime the air filter with fuel to get going. No matter what I've tried! Your series on this saw has given me a few thing I haven't considered and giving me the motivation to tear into it again and see if I can finally resolve the issue!
I have a saw that has a very similar problem right now and I just diagnosed it today. High jet works great with 4 stroking, but low jet just doesn't want to go. Once it gets started it idles super high. Figured it had an air leak so I did all the basics (fuel line and filter, impulse, intake boot, spark plug, crank seals, new carb). But it still runs exactly the same. Literally today I got it diagnosed! Used some WD40 to search for my air leak. Got her idling (high), then sprayed WD40 various possible locations for an air leak. Nothing..... 'till I sprayed it on the clutch side base gasket. She coughed and dropped her idle and smoked like crazy. Damn base gasket is making my air leak. Thinking about doing a base gasket delete and opening up the lower transfers to go with the ironhorse pipe she already wears. If you get that 026 going (or if you don't) I'd be glad to have her. My son and I like to tear down junk engines as a teaching aid.
I had an issue with my 026 running well when cold then would wander and die out. Tuning didn’t help. Put a new carb on, new fuel line and new impulse line, same thing. Ran when turned over on each side. It ended up being a bad coil. Donyboy73 diagnosed it and got it running tickety boo for me. Shout out to Don the Small Engine Doctor through whom I discovered Buckin, Steve’s Small Engine Shop, Ironhorse and you TinMan. Hasn’t given any problems since. If you have another coil, give that a whirl.
I was dealing with a similar issue yesterday for almost 6 hours on a customer's Stihl TS420. I did a primary compression and vacuum test and it was perfect. Secondary compression was a little over 150psi. I tried swapping the coil and it wasn't the issue. I ultrasonic cleaned the carburetor and rebuilt it (it was only 4 months old!). When I finally got it to start (even with electric start help it took forever), it only ran on high and medium throttle down to maybe 4000rpm. I checked the intake boot and impulse line as well and cleaned the muffler screen just in case even though I could see through it. I finally broke down amd ordered a new carburetor after having it apart and re-rebuilt two more times. Two stroke stuff can sometimes drive you crazy!
I had one of those 026 saws, always had trouble starting. I stepped up the idle screw and had less trouble than before. But sometimes the only way to start was to squirt gas/oil mix in the back of the breather. It would start and run after that. But cold starts were always hard starts
Some comments regarding the popoff-problem / unstable idling: As a former 100cc karting driver, we often used Tillotson carbs, and i can remember the popoff pressure was crucial for throttling / acceleration. Also on those Tillotson carbs, the right pressure was 12 to 15 psi. I happen to have an old 026. A friend handed it to me, several years ago. After changing crankshaft seals and carb gaskets, it ran very good, and still does! The only problem was unstable idling. As soon as I lifted the saw from the ground, the rpm changed slightly. I checked various details, including popoff pressure, and experienced the very same thing as in this video; I could'nt activate it, unless I put some pressure at the dipragm arm. Asking one of the dealers here in Norway, the did not know anything about the popoff pressure. I had to research on my own. Normally, you bend the needle arm slightly to change the pressure, but in this case it did'nt work. I changed the spring to a smaller / weaker type, and got my settings to approx 13psi. Very well, so far. But, it was almost impossible to start the engine. The problem solved, by putting back the original spring. But still; my instrument also got off-scale, as in this video. Nobody has so far given me a deasant explain, regarding this popoff-thing for this Walbro carburettor.. The unstable idling: The reason, at least in my case, was the rubber seal for the mixture needles. The rubber had hardened over the years, and caused the needles / idling needle to move slightly, when lifting the saw by the handle. As there always is some play in the threads, it was enough to change the mixture, and so the idling speed. The solution? I removed that "rubber" seal. After that, idling is no longer a problem.
"Do Stihl coils fail or run a muck"? Well, my recent problem after a repair on an 036 found that answer. Coils can be wonky. It was driving me nuts. Every time the saw died, I checked for spark and it appeared as if there was spark. Each time the saw died, it was like it just turned off, with no stumble. My spark checking method was either with a neon light or by checking the plug laying against the fins. That right there is not always rock solid apparently. I do not have the correct small engine "big gap" tester. That would have been an interesting test to see and confirm. I discovered a pattern of letting the saw cool and coming back to it and it would then start. I "shot gunned" the coil. Two runs since and it seems perfect. BTW thanks for the vids and inspiration to get me on my 036 repair. I had to split a case to swap a crankshaft. I also got the parts from Wolf Creek. Anyway, it looks as if a fueling journey will get you where you need to be on your 026. Looking forward to the next installment! Good luck.
You have a bad carburetor or there is some debri in the jets of the carburetor. If there was a small leak in the crankcase the chainsaw still will turn on but accelerate very poorly. Take the carburetor completely apart. Remove the needles and use high pressure air to blow through the needle holes. I had a very similar problem and cleaning completely the carburetor and blowing air through it fix all my problems. But I'm sure there is going to be debri stuck inside the jets. Good luck and I hope you fix it.
With the carb mounted to the saw hook the vac up to the fuel inlet. Build pressure and pull the cord. If impulse circuit is working the needle should open and you lose pressure on the vac gauge.
I just have to say again that this video series is awesome - and also crazy that I have an 026 with the same symptoms as yours. Keep hoping you figure out what's wrong with your saw because it might solve my problems too. By the way, I put a brand new walbro carb on mine and it made no difference.
I don’t know if you checked but the choke system on those wears on the lever that pushes on the flapper to choke it. Remove the air filter put your finger over the carb. And it will start
That one sure is putting up a fight! I'm still leaning towards deeper carb problems, but can't hurt a thing to do a pressure/vacuum test. Hardware store rubber sheets work great to sandwich between carbs and mufflers for testing.
Check the operation of the valve jet with a pressure gauge. The valve jet is the brass nozzle that can be seen in the throat of the carbutetor. The nozzle comes off by hitting it with a mandrel towards the throat, then just put it on the end of the pressure gauge hose and check if it holds pressure. So the throat end of the nozzle comes from the front into the meter hose. If there is a leak, then the saw behaves as if it has an air leak, and it actually does.
Hey Tinman, I had a similar issue...not exactly the same, but close. Had a saw that would not idle, ran okay up high, but was impossible to tune around idle to about 1/3 throttle. It happened to be that the primary idle circuit had some junk in it and wasn't allowing fuel in. If someone was monkeying around with that carb they could have gotten a bit of debris in there and it could have partially blocked or fully blocked a passage. I had no luck reviving my carb and opted to put a new one on, now it's good as new. That's probably where I'd start with this one.
Hi Tinman,really enjoy your channel.Porting a few saws now from what i have learnt from yourself and Ironhorse,thankyou.Sounds like the carby has a blockage somwhere.good luck.
In a 1967 small block chevy with a carburetor, the fuel pump is between the fuel tank and the carb. Pressure is used to overcome the needle valve when the float is low. A chainsaw has the fuel pump on the inside and pulls the fuel from the inside. Also we call it a coil ... but it is a magnetic pick up, an electronic ignition module and a coil.
Hey Tinman My Bet is the 100% Carburetor , just been through the same thing with one of My Stihl 660's not long ago had all the same Simtoms the spring under the Needle valve Lever needs to be the correct one and the Top Diafram needs to be the correct one.i put a carb together from scattered parts after a long day and overlooked those 2 things when put it together 😅
Hey I have an 024 that I put an 026 top end on, I had the same issues and after much frustration I found the fuel line was getting pinched when the air filter was screwed down. It didn’t look much but it was enough to make it lean out when working, the temptation is to try adjusting it on the jets, but it just had me going rounding circles, I noticed a few videos back when you first assembled the saw your fuel pipe was routed the same as mine was when it was giving trouble. I also noticed that you cut yours short! It’s only a guess but hope this may help. Regards Jay
Both of my MS360 junk pile builds need a prime after setting a week. They run great with no tuning issues after a prime and restart hot good. They are both over intaked, one at 80, the other 83.
HI TINMAN 😊😊 IVE seen that be 4 its the fuel filter or the carb or its a air leake and most the time ⌚ 😮 when they are dry make sure the fuel tank is full and put a bit of gas in the carb it will save U a alit cranking and pulling and a another thing there may be a pin hole in the fuel line IVE seen that be 4 also it leakes 😮😮 U can try a another needle and seat 4 the carb 😊😊 OMG 9 11 2O24
I've rebuilt 4-5 of these now. The biggest problem when you're not getting fuel is the damn fuel line. It can get kinked sooo easily if it's not an OEM line.
You know I have a 026 my uncle ask me to take a look at, doing the same thing. And it’s been a headache. Tune up, New impulse line, new seals, another known good coil. Great compression. I’m lost on it.
Having the same problem with a McCullough 120 I put new fuel line and aftermarket carb kit will fire if you put gas directly into carb I will try the pressure test thanks
Make sure you choke is working remove the diaphragms and gaskets and needles metering and both high and low speed clean and blow all passages then put in a jar of gas and ultrasonic for 10 mins when you take the carb out of the gas see if there are any spots or areas that stay wet for longer which might indicate a crack in the body if this fails rip out the welch plug check jets and check the non return valve for the metering chamber There was gas in the metering chamber so must be getting there some how you are close
OK, my guess is that you have an air leak into the tank and the fuel is draining from the carb back into the tank. Either the tank vent is leaking or the grommet isn't sealing. Fuel should not flow back into the tank. When fuel is removed from the tank, an equal volume of air is pulled into the tank. The fuel can't flow back into the tank without removing some air. Tip the saw on its side and see if any fuel comes out from the vent or the the grommet around the fuel line.
metering lever has a dimple on the end, to me its worn, and sticking. metering levers should be fkat, shiny and smooth last i had a bench mark. i could be wrong, but i always go smoother as betrer.😊
I've been fixing 30-40 stihl ms260 / 026 , trust me.... Its always the carburetor , seems like i can save 1 out of 10 at most. Even with a good carb they are a pain to adjust and are really finicky . Dont try a chinese carb as they never work. You're only hope is to find a good one
It is maddening that the saw isnt cooperating. But on the bright side more tinman videos. If you heading west to visit bucking might as well swing south and visit ryan while your at it.
great vid, really enjoy watching didja try pulling it over 6 or so times with the tank vent out? If you think this cantankerous saw is something.. my 038 might be its cousin.. hah
Hi Tinman! The first step is to check the engine itself for leaks, and then climb into the carburetor and other parts. After all, if the engine is not sealed, the pulse tube will not control the carburetor! There will simply be no fuel supply. So you can pull the starter until your hands turn blue) With experience, I have come to the fact that I compress the engine before and after repair. This is the only way to achieve a good result. Good luck, you will succeed!
Honestly Tinman I think it's OK that this thing didn't fire right up, I'm learning a lot about troubleshooting. Building a saw is cool but being able to trouble shoot is valuable
Beings you said it's 4 stroking and not screaming to the moon n back, I'd assume there's no air leaks. I have had saws run fine until warmed up and then act up due to bad crank seals tho..and ironically enough most all them saws were 024 and 026's. But If I were a betting man I'd say you got yourself a bad carburetor.
My friend whom I never met, yet, back in the early 70's starting out as a commercial logger I had Stihl saws for our tools to do in trees. Well, only problem was with them, for every in one we had running, I had 4-5 on the truck for parts. Needless to say, for 50 years now, I will not walk across the street for a train load of em give to be me free! Be afraid the scrap yard would charge me to take em..... J
![Why Did They Stop Making These? [Restoration]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/gh0SV8aPnMU/mqdefault.jpg)
Hey hey Tinman, thank for showing the finicky one's. Was beginning to think that was only my curse. I used to make a living runnin saws, and at the time did all my repairs on a tailgate with what I had just hand tools. I wish I would have known then, what I think I know now. I have chased air leaks till I was crazy. Now I pressure test every thing every time, I've gotten to where for my own peace of mind it's worth it to me. Thanks for your porting knowledge, time, company and content....👍
rebuilt my 026 carb today!! runs awesome now! never had a carb kit put in it and i've had the saw for 30 yrs! thanks tinman for the guidance!
The metal nipple on the replacement diaphragm may not be as long as the original. I've come across this before. The nipple on the diaphragm in the rebuild kit was shorter than oem and wouldn't push down far enough to open the needle.
I finally got my old 31 year old (1993) 026 running just perfect. I bought it for $150 USD from a guy who bought a 250 to replace it. Needed a lot of work, complete teardown and rebuild. After getting it together it bogged down in the cut. Even with no load, just sitting on the wood. Turned out that the coil is going bad but it had a bright blue spark. Same problem I had with a very old 039 I have.
Getting an OEM coil would cost over $170 USD. So I took a chance and bought two Farmertec coils and now they run with power. No bog, cut so fast.
Did it have a issue tuning aswell?
Tinman always tells like it is. A great man and a no nonsense man. A great person.
Best way to troubleshoot frustrating problems is to have a good one you can test against and swap parts to narrow things down 👍🏼
If it isn't the carb or choke check that the vent is working properly. I had a husky 61 that broke my brain, come to find out the vent was clogged.
Wonder if you have fines behind the weltch plug
Yes a pressure test to the crankcase and also vacuum test would definitely give more insight. I've had cheap crank bearings and seals go out right after assembling the case. They also ran just the same as your saw. Very erratic. I do visit the Stihl shop for those things now so I cut more and fix less :-)
I love your persistence Tinman. This has been a cliff hanger and I know you’ll get it figured out.
My wife and I are excited to see you and Buckin! Can't wait!!
Best saw channel on TH-cam.
got an 026 a while back that was a bear to start cold if it would even start at all. eventually found that even though the master control lever was engaging the choke in the air filter, it wasn't engaging the throttle plate in the carb at all. once i found that out, if i put slight pressure on the trigger when starting it fired up like normal. found the master control lever had a broken tab on it. after i replaced that it's started up in 2-3 pulls ever since.
I know your pain on this one. I have an 024 that for years now I have to prime the air filter with fuel to get going. No matter what I've tried! Your series on this saw has given me a few thing I haven't considered and giving me the motivation to tear into it again and see if I can finally resolve the issue!
Hey Tinman, probably been suggested before, a faulty pulse line, cracked or small hole somewhere or fitting on the crankcase cracked?
I think this is my favorite saw build yet it has the looks but doesn't wanna run you do good work tinman
I love the authenticity Tinman! Keep up the awesome work and content.
I have a saw that has a very similar problem right now and I just diagnosed it today. High jet works great with 4 stroking, but low jet just doesn't want to go. Once it gets started it idles super high. Figured it had an air leak so I did all the basics (fuel line and filter, impulse, intake boot, spark plug, crank seals, new carb). But it still runs exactly the same. Literally today I got it diagnosed! Used some WD40 to search for my air leak. Got her idling (high), then sprayed WD40 various possible locations for an air leak. Nothing..... 'till I sprayed it on the clutch side base gasket. She coughed and dropped her idle and smoked like crazy. Damn base gasket is making my air leak. Thinking about doing a base gasket delete and opening up the lower transfers to go with the ironhorse pipe she already wears. If you get that 026 going (or if you don't) I'd be glad to have her. My son and I like to tear down junk engines as a teaching aid.
Thanks for all your time and work on this. We are all learning from you. Thanks man!
I had an issue with my 026 running well when cold then would wander and die out. Tuning didn’t help. Put a new carb on, new fuel line and new impulse line, same thing. Ran when turned over on each side. It ended up being a bad coil. Donyboy73 diagnosed it and got it running tickety boo for me. Shout out to Don the Small Engine Doctor through whom I discovered Buckin, Steve’s Small Engine Shop, Ironhorse and you TinMan. Hasn’t given any problems since. If you have another coil, give that a whirl.
I was dealing with a similar issue yesterday for almost 6 hours on a customer's Stihl TS420. I did a primary compression and vacuum test and it was perfect. Secondary compression was a little over 150psi. I tried swapping the coil and it wasn't the issue. I ultrasonic cleaned the carburetor and rebuilt it (it was only 4 months old!). When I finally got it to start (even with electric start help it took forever), it only ran on high and medium throttle down to maybe 4000rpm. I checked the intake boot and impulse line as well and cleaned the muffler screen just in case even though I could see through it. I finally broke down amd ordered a new carburetor after having it apart and re-rebuilt two more times. Two stroke stuff can sometimes drive you crazy!
I had one of those 026 saws, always had trouble starting. I stepped up the idle screw and had less trouble than before. But sometimes the only way to start was to squirt gas/oil mix in the back of the breather. It would start and run after that. But cold starts were always hard starts
The tank vent on my 038 was acting up intermittently and drove me nuts for afew days lol. Keep up the great work tinman
Some comments regarding the popoff-problem / unstable idling: As a former 100cc karting driver, we often used Tillotson carbs, and i can remember the popoff pressure was crucial for throttling / acceleration. Also on those Tillotson carbs, the right pressure was 12 to 15 psi.
I happen to have an old 026. A friend handed it to me, several years ago. After changing crankshaft seals and carb gaskets, it ran very
good, and still does!
The only problem was unstable idling. As soon as I lifted the saw from the ground, the rpm changed slightly. I checked various details, including popoff pressure, and experienced the very same thing as in this video; I could'nt activate it, unless I put some pressure at the dipragm arm. Asking one of the dealers here in Norway, the did not know anything about the popoff pressure.
I had to research on my own.
Normally, you bend the needle arm slightly to change the pressure, but in this case it did'nt work. I changed the spring to a smaller / weaker type, and got my settings to approx 13psi.
Very well, so far. But, it was almost impossible to start the engine. The problem solved, by putting back the original spring. But still; my instrument also got off-scale, as in this video. Nobody has so far given me a deasant explain, regarding this popoff-thing for this Walbro carburettor..
The unstable idling: The reason, at least in my case, was the rubber seal for the mixture needles. The rubber had hardened over the years, and caused the needles / idling needle to move slightly, when lifting the saw by the handle. As there always is some play in the threads, it was enough to change the mixture, and so the idling speed. The solution? I removed that "rubber" seal.
After that, idling is no longer a problem.
Great display of paitience...and calmness...well done
Love working on my power saw and love watching you working on your power saws 🤙
Good video, seeing you work through the issues is very informative. Thanks for taking the time to show how you work through it.
"Do Stihl coils fail or run a muck"? Well, my recent problem after a repair on an 036 found that answer. Coils can be wonky. It was driving me nuts. Every time the saw died, I checked for spark and it appeared as if there was spark. Each time the saw died, it was like it just turned off, with no stumble. My spark checking method was either with a neon light or by checking the plug laying against the fins. That right there is not always rock solid apparently. I do not have the correct small engine "big gap" tester. That would have been an interesting test to see and confirm. I discovered a pattern of letting the saw cool and coming back to it and it would then start. I "shot gunned" the coil. Two runs since and it seems perfect. BTW thanks for the vids and inspiration to get me on my 036 repair. I had to split a case to swap a crankshaft. I also got the parts from Wolf Creek. Anyway, it looks as if a fueling journey will get you where you need to be on your 026. Looking forward to the next installment! Good luck.
Tank vent, had the same issue changed the tank to a ms260 one and problem solved by firstly priming down plug hole.
Thank you Sir for keepin it real! If you ever make it to wolf creek maybe we could have a saw and bike rally!!!
Thanks. I learned something new today. Awesome 👌
I like the process. It’s educational.
You have a bad carburetor or there is some debri in the jets of the carburetor. If there was a small leak in the crankcase the chainsaw still will turn on but accelerate very poorly. Take the carburetor completely apart. Remove the needles and use high pressure air to blow through the needle holes. I had a very similar problem and cleaning completely the carburetor and blowing air through it fix all my problems. But I'm sure there is going to be debri stuck inside the jets. Good luck and I hope you fix it.
With the carb mounted to the saw hook the vac up to the fuel inlet. Build pressure and pull the cord. If impulse circuit is working the needle should open and you lose pressure on the vac gauge.
I just have to say again that this video series is awesome - and also crazy that I have an 026 with the same symptoms as yours. Keep hoping you figure out what's wrong with your saw because it might solve my problems too. By the way, I put a brand new walbro carb on mine and it made no difference.
I don’t know if you checked but the choke system on those wears on the lever that pushes on the flapper to choke it. Remove the air filter put your finger over the carb. And it will start
That one sure is putting up a fight! I'm still leaning towards deeper carb problems, but can't hurt a thing to do a pressure/vacuum test. Hardware store rubber sheets work great to sandwich between carbs and mufflers for testing.
Check the operation of the valve jet with a pressure gauge. The valve jet is the brass nozzle that can be seen in the throat of the carbutetor. The nozzle comes off by hitting it with a mandrel towards the throat, then just put it on the end of the pressure gauge hose and check if it holds pressure. So the throat end of the nozzle comes from the front into the meter hose. If there is a leak, then the saw behaves as if it has an air leak, and it actually does.
Hey Tinman, I had a similar issue...not exactly the same, but close. Had a saw that would not idle, ran okay up high, but was impossible to tune around idle to about 1/3 throttle. It happened to be that the primary idle circuit had some junk in it and wasn't allowing fuel in. If someone was monkeying around with that carb they could have gotten a bit of debris in there and it could have partially blocked or fully blocked a passage. I had no luck reviving my carb and opted to put a new one on, now it's good as new. That's probably where I'd start with this one.
I love these series! You are quite a teacher! Thx
Hi Tinman,really enjoy your channel.Porting a few saws now from what i have learnt from yourself and Ironhorse,thankyou.Sounds like the carby has a blockage somwhere.good luck.
My 026 did the same thing. I changed everything. I put the stihl gas in it and it runs like a charm
In a 1967 small block chevy with a carburetor, the fuel pump is between the fuel tank and the carb. Pressure is used to overcome the needle valve when the float is low. A chainsaw has the fuel pump on the inside and pulls the fuel from the inside. Also we call it a coil ... but it is a magnetic pick up, an electronic ignition module and a coil.
Hey Tinman My Bet is the 100% Carburetor , just been through the same thing with one of My Stihl 660's not long ago had all the same Simtoms the spring under the Needle valve Lever needs to be the correct one and the Top Diafram needs to be the correct one.i put a carb together from scattered parts after a long day and overlooked those 2 things when put it together 😅
Bunyan is going to be a blast if you can make it you won’t be disappointed 👍👍
Hey I have an 024 that I put an 026 top end on, I had the same issues and after much frustration I found the fuel line was getting pinched when the air filter was screwed down. It didn’t look much but it was enough to make it lean out when working, the temptation is to try adjusting it on the jets, but it just had me going rounding circles, I noticed a few videos back when you first assembled the saw your fuel pipe was routed the same as mine was when it was giving trouble. I also noticed that you cut yours short! It’s only a guess but hope this may help. Regards Jay
Both of my MS360 junk pile builds need a prime after setting a week. They run great with no tuning issues after a prime and restart hot good. They are both over intaked, one at 80, the other 83.
Love the videos
Toro groundsmaster is an awesome machine we have one at work
HI TINMAN 😊😊 IVE seen that be 4 its the fuel filter or the carb or its a air leake and most the time ⌚ 😮 when they are dry make sure the fuel tank is full and put a bit of gas in the carb it will save U a alit cranking and pulling and a another thing there may be a pin hole in the fuel line IVE seen that be 4 also it leakes 😮😮 U can try a another needle and seat 4 the carb 😊😊 OMG 9 11 2O24
Tinman, check the choke plate on the filter. Sometimes they don’t seal correctly. Specially if it’s after market filters
I've rebuilt 4-5 of these now.
The biggest problem when you're not getting fuel is the damn fuel line. It can get kinked sooo easily if it's not an OEM line.
A normal setting on pop off preasure is. The valve should hold 10 psi minimum and pop off around 20-25 psi.
So this one is where it should be.
You know I have a 026 my uncle ask me to take a look at, doing the same thing. And it’s been a headache. Tune up, New impulse line, new seals, another known good coil. Great compression. I’m lost on it.
Looking forward to the next video on this saw.
Maybe you did already, but pulling the welch plugs and total ultrasonic cleaning with jets out I haven't heard you mention.
Having the same problem with a McCullough 120 I put new fuel line and aftermarket carb kit will fire if you put gas directly into carb I will try the pressure test thanks
Just watching you show now and I'm guessing impulse leak at cylinder....hmmm. Weak prime into carb.... TC Mahalo Tinman 🤙🤙🤙
Make sure you choke is working
remove the diaphragms and gaskets and needles metering and both high and low speed clean and blow all passages then put in a jar of gas and ultrasonic for 10 mins when you take the carb out of the gas see if there are any spots or areas that stay wet for longer which might indicate a crack in the body if this fails rip out the welch plug check jets and check the non return valve for the metering chamber
There was gas in the metering chamber so must be getting there some how you are close
All our fuel in Australia is ethanol free. We can buy e10 and e85, but it's hard to find.
OK, my guess is that you have an air leak into the tank and the fuel is draining from the carb back into the tank. Either the tank vent is leaking or the grommet isn't sealing. Fuel should not flow back into the tank. When fuel is removed from the tank, an equal volume of air is pulled into the tank. The fuel can't flow back into the tank without removing some air. Tip the saw on its side and see if any fuel comes out from the vent or the the grommet around the fuel line.
I noticed when you tipped the saw sideways fuel ws dumping out tank vent area. I believe the tank vent orange rubber is missing.
I have seen the pulse line port not drilled properly, had the same symptom.
All of these issues will totally be worth it. That saw is gonna be a ripper.
Maybe lack of impulse due to intake timing, or free porting?
Could you have maybe got some moto seal in the impulse line or some thing plugging it.
I would definitely give up on the carburetor.
That's why I like huskys. 😂
Pressure test the whole saw
metering lever has a dimple on the end, to me its worn, and sticking. metering levers should be fkat, shiny and smooth last i had a bench mark. i could be wrong, but i always go smoother as betrer.😊
I've been fixing 30-40 stihl ms260 / 026 , trust me.... Its always the carburetor , seems like i can save 1 out of 10 at most. Even with a good carb they are a pain to adjust and are really finicky . Dont try a chinese carb as they never work. You're only hope is to find a good one
I'm hoping to make it to Bunyon this year but it's my boys birthday party on the 5th
It is maddening that the saw isnt cooperating. But on the bright side more tinman videos. If you heading west to visit bucking might as well swing south and visit ryan while your at it.
great vid, really enjoy watching
didja try pulling it over 6 or so times with the tank vent out?
If you think this cantankerous saw is something.. my 038 might be its cousin.. hah
Isn't that the saw with the corroded cases? Id be checking that shit out. Might be leaking or not depending on motor temp? Pulse hole plugged up?
I'm looking forward to hanging out with you again
It’s because you were wearing the wrong hat. Put on your Stihl hat and it would crank right up!
I will be anxious to see what the problem is. It is giving you all kind of problems.
Old saying! If it was easy everyone would build saws! Tinker tinker! Good times 👌
Hi Tinman! The first step is to check the engine itself for leaks, and then climb into the carburetor and other parts. After all, if the engine is not sealed, the pulse tube will not control the carburetor! There will simply be no fuel supply. So you can pull the starter until your hands turn blue) With experience, I have come to the fact that I compress the engine before and after repair. This is the only way to achieve a good result. Good luck, you will succeed!
Honestly Tinman I think it's OK that this thing didn't fire right up, I'm learning a lot about troubleshooting. Building a saw is cool but being able to trouble shoot is valuable
I believe the pop off pressure should be between 15 and 20 psi.
I like your channel & your Canadian! Like Me.
Does the impulse line operate the diaphragm that pushes in the needle valve to let the fuel through? Is the impulse line pulsing?
Beings you said it's 4 stroking and not screaming to the moon n back, I'd assume there's no air leaks. I have had saws run fine until warmed up and then act up due to bad crank seals tho..and ironically enough most all them saws were 024 and 026's. But If I were a betting man I'd say you got yourself a bad carburetor.
sthil wanted over $30 for an 026 carb kit!! wolf creek was way more reasonable! 1/3 less than sthil!
Stihl uses zama carbs stock on some of their saws!
You better just send it to me. I have a bin of 024 026 parts😂
Are you sure your idle screw threads are not worn and your idle screw is working its way out- loose idle and the saw wont start.
I have a carburetor off a 026 i could send you if you want or need. It would more than likely need a rebuilt
I have an 026 that belonged to my Dad. I have thrown everything at it and it still doesn't run right. Frustrating to say the least.
One tiny little speck almost invisible of carbon in the spark plug
Can you not borrow a carb off another saw to eliminate (or not) that as an issue? Maybe a Zama will work. 😏
Leaking impulse line or nipple? Does the line possibly have a hole or cut in it.
The impulse line is broken or plugged up
The name of the saw is the demon saw. It is possessed by Paul Bunyan.😅😅It cant hurt to buy a after market 25.00 carb from Amazon. What the hell.
Do I see a plastic elbow on the inlet?
Your lever is upside down. Spring goes in the pocket nipple up
My friend whom I never met, yet, back in the early 70's starting out as a commercial logger I had Stihl saws for our tools to do in trees. Well, only problem was with them, for every in one we had running, I had 4-5 on the truck for parts. Needless to say, for 50 years now, I will not walk across the street for a train load of em give to be me free! Be afraid the scrap yard would charge me to take em.....
J
Can't remember or not on 026, could it be an impulse line issue?