Tools that make this job possible/easier as shown in the video. Fan clutch tool set here → amzn.to/2vyiFs2 Lisle coolant funnel here → amzn.to/2wG1MvY Metabo impact gun here → amzn.to/2wFykGh Find your next fun pocket knife here → amzn.to/2vyfwIG Bolt Puller set here → amzn.to/2vR0Wi5 Xtreme Green high pressure lube here → www.cs4000.net/XtremeGreen/me...
Great video Brian. I have been working on my personal vehicles for years, and had most of the tools required, but the tips on the Puller bolts (M8-1.25) & longer center bolt (M12-1.5 X 90MM) were great. Unfortunately, we had to go to Fastenal across town to get the bolt, as none of the supply stores had the 1.5 thread pitch. Also, we had to put tension on the Harmonic Balancer with the Puller, then tap on the Balancer with a hammer to get it to start moving, and nearly stripped the Puller threads. We also had to pull the starter (simple removal on this vehicle) to hold the crank still to break loose the M12 Bolt. Wedging a large slot screw driver in the fly wheel did the trick, but we tried most everything else trying to get the bolt loose. Clearly over torqued! I wish I had the patience to video some of my projects, so thank you. YOU TUBE is great for providing this type of information, weather it's automobiles, home, computers, etc. Thank you YOU TUBE!
Just an FYI when breaking crank bolts loose as long as it left hand threds you can use a long breaker bar and prop it on the frame and use the starter to break the bolt loose just food for thought
Thanks for the great tip! I just removed and reinstalled my harmonic balancer (to replace the leaking crank seal) on my 2003 Ranger with the same motor as this sport Trac, the 4.0 sohc. Have a couple comments that may help others. Napa's version of the rental fan clutch removal tool includes the needed 57mm and 36mm wrenches and works great. The "bolt style wheel puller" kit from harbor freight is 20 bucks and works great for this application. The kit even included the correct size bolts to thread into the pulley. I removed the harmonic balancer bolt and took it to the hardware store to try to buy a longer one for pulling the balancer back in. M12 x 1.5 ended up not being the correct thread pitch as recommended in the video. I believe it would be 1.75 or 2, but I don't know for sure because my hardware store didn't have one that matched. I ended up not needing one though, the original bolt was long enough to pull the balancer in. I don't have the fancy impact that fits inbetween the radiator and the pulley. To get the balancer bolt loose, I put a long breaker bar on the bolt and rested it on the passenger side frame rail. Activated the starter for just an instant and it broke loose real easy. I also didn't know that the bolt is TTY and shouldn't be reused. My local parts stores didn't have any in stock. Make sure to get one before disassembling like I did.
Exellent video. About to tackle this with my son on his 07 Ranger. Knowing bolt size, length and thread for everything ahead of time is gonna be a big help. Because of your video I get to look like a master mechanic that gets everything right on the very first try with no unnecessary steps....hahaha! Thank you for putting in the effort to make stuff like this.
I will probably never touch some of the cars you work on, but seriously enjoy and appreciate the approach and care you bring to each repair. And I usually learn a lot. Great work!
Thanks for the video! That friggin center nut was a bear to break loose! My neighbor (a mechanic who I hate to ask to do work for me) gave me a tip: Use an 18" breaker bar, long enough to rest the handle end on the frame (drivers side). The breaker bar is attached to the socket and the socket is securely on the nut. Give a one second ignition engagement (just a quick turn of key and off again - you are not trying to get the engine running). Since the harmonic pulley turns clockwise, the nut will rotate counter-clockwise and release. I spent an hour trying to get that thing out before I gave in and asked him if there was a trick to it. Worked like a charm. Your impact wrench is great, but there is a cheaper alternative.
Worked for me! Thanks to Scotty K. channel. 19mm and a long breaker bar, belt off, crank but don't start the engine, off she comes. mine was 06 ford explorer, 4.0 v6 4x4
Hey Brian thx for taking the time to make this vid. Along with other videos, i enjoy watching them even though i have not come accross some of your situations on other vehicles; BUT i have already come accross this problem on this kind of vehicle. I do remember taking it off from the bottom without E. Fan clutch interference.
Great teacher! 👍 as a person which English is not the primary language, this is gold, I appreciate that you speak in a matter that is understandable from start to finish, and the way you explain the process is also great including the camera angles and the tools required for the job. Fantastic video! 😎😎😎💪💪💪🔟✅️
True... and this is not even my year model. There wouldn't be any grumbling about paying educators a decent wage if they were all like him. Plus, I'd definitely be much smarter.
Great video, but you never showed how you got the HB off? I have a 06 Ford Explorer, 4.0 v6. The inside of my HB looked fine, but with engine off, ran my finger inside and it was in pieces, couldn't tell from the outside but from a little shaking at idle. Same issue but in your video @ 7:12-7:16, those clamps with the 3/8 and 1/2 hose removal tool will not budge. Badly rusted and seized on really bad, I tried hitting, heating, oil, everything.... still cant remove unless I get new oil cooler lines or saw it off and ruin the radiator. Anyone have any suggestions? Brian, Recommending adding the tools needed for the job in the description below, example: 8mm,10mm, 13mm, 36mm fan tool, 56mm skinny fan pulley tool, pop rivet interior removal tool, pick tool, long 3in hardened bolts for HB removal, 19mm deep, 3/8 & 1/2 hose A/T clamp removal (if not badly rusted). The tools I rented from auto zone for the HB removal bolts were too short at around 2 1/2 inches, need minimum 3 inches to get more than 2 threads into the HB with the puller. So, Guess I'll be making a trip to Lowes Hardware if Auto Zone doesn't have a bigger set. Oh, btw, the radiator is a pain in the rear to remove! Discharge the A/C, Get some rags for the A/T oil "if" you get the hoses loose (I couldn't) located at the bottom of the radiator, and you have to pull the radiator and A/C condenser at the same time. The radiator bracket will not allow you to just pull the radiator. Good Luck and enjoy.
Brian, I have a 2000 F150 4.2 and from underneath the truck (3" lift) I can easily see the Harmonic Balancer. That also means it gets thrashed by massive puddles and is unprotected. What is the name of the part that shields the HB?
Best video instruction for me, thank you. I am just starting this replacement, my crank pully has move back towards the engine. Could this be normal or is the timing cover seal bad to allow this movement? thanks if you can tell me why the pully might have moved the 1/2 ". Thanks again
Harmonic Balancer went bad on my Ford 3.0 engine and ate through the timing chain cover... Out of desperation,, I used a mixture of J.B.Weld and Steel Wool to patch the rather large hole in the aluminum timing chain cover... Over 5 years time and 100k miles later and it's still fixed with no oil leak. BTW,,, Thanks for another great video Brian...
Do you have a specific video for changing harmonic balance for a 2007 Ford mustang, v6? Your video has been the closest, and most informative, but smartest video as yet! I have this saved to my phone. I'm a gal, learned about wrenching on older cars, but 1st time doing this on my 2007 mustang. I'm already changing out the radiator so this happening was the best timing! I'll keep watching or if you'd hv another person's video to watch,video greatly appreciate it! Great video! Great clues about putting it back on, and the sizes of what might be needed. My neighbor is a retired master mechanic, so hoping we have a puller that will work. I've never heard of that lubricant either. I don't mind if it costs more, just as long as its a good product. Thx for the info! Liz
Not sure if I'm correct or not but you said the balancer bolt was three and a half inches long how long is the extra bolt to put it on a crank I did not catch it in your video. Thank you
Need help ASAP. I'm currently swapping engines, remanufactured long block. While trying to line the converter stud I moved the flex plate using the crankshaft pulley bolt and turned it counterclockwise a 16th inch and both loosened up. Since this is a TTY do I have to replace? My problem is now that the engine is installed how do I tighten it 37 ft lbs + 90 degrees without the engine turning over too? Long block is already installed
Pretty good video. I have one of these >cars< for my wife. It's been a real lemon so far with quite a few repairs that have been above and beyond, now this has gone out, so am taking it to a shop as I don't have a shop nor the tools to do it. Pretty good explanation on everything though. Thanks!
How did you keep the motor from turning while tightening? Also, I put the original back on and the replacement, and I can't get the pulley on far enough to line up, so it shreds the belt.
Brian, I’m swapping the motor in my 2004 explorer with a 1997 4.0 sohc out of a ranger. I know everything on the long block needs to be switched over from my blown up motor, but does the balancer need to?
I'm working on same engine different car though but same stuff applies,I really enjoyed video didn't fast ⏩ at all never boring keep up the good work bro
Word,.... Advance auto it costs you $129.00 to rent their HB puller and it don't work,... none of the bolts are long enough. I had a puller but the bolt stores were closed,... so we rented that one,.... waste of time. Got the bolts brian'smobile1 recommends and the Harmonic Balancer came right off. We used the big breaking bar to break the bolt loose a 3/4 socket and bumped the starter and the bolt broke loose. $14.00 to buy a Harmonic Balance puller at harbor freight,...A 3 armed gear puller works as well. But you will probably have to remove the radiator,.....nightmare***** But now my sons Ford Ranger is back on the road again. Thanks brian'smobile1 great video.
Thanks for the video, Brian. I was wondering if there were symptoms that indicated to you that it was going bad or if it simply failed. I’ve got an ‘04 Ranger 4.0 with a very slight vibration at all speeds which after inspecting balancing and swapping tires and replacing hub assemblies is still present. Trying to determine if it’s possibly the harmonic balancer or even a bad engine mount. Any insight you could give would be appreciated. Thank you in advance! Have a great New Year!
Thank you for the video! I just replaced my harmonic balancer on my 2008 v6 mustang. I do have a slight issue though. The new balancer has the different exciter ring just like on your video. After everything was hooked back up, the engine hesitated to start. On the second try, it fired up and idled for 5 to 10 minutes. The idle seemed ok. I decided to go for a test drive, and noticed that my wrench light was on showing a code P0320. I shut the car off, and it will not start again. I'm having some worries go through my mind because the balancer turned a little bit while I was trying to get the bolt off. Can this throw the timing off? Could it be as simple as getting a reprogram? I should also mention that the old balancer did not separate. I replaced it due to some minor engine vibration. I did not replace the crankshaft sensor as it was not damaged. The new harmonic balancer is a Ford factory part.
I think you're good. I would double check for the Harmonic balancer to be on far enough but not too far. Also check the crank sensor again for damage. If those are good, disconnect the battery and or clear codes and try again. If that doesn't work, get it programmed.
Hi Brian! I too just replaced the balancer on my ‘08 Explorer. The new balancer does have a different exciter ring as you mentioned. I am getting the same P0340 code even after trying a new crank sensor. How do I reprogram? Thanks
How does one get it reprogrammed? I misfire at highway speeds around 2000RPMs since I replaced mine. Ford dealership acts like they have no clue what a reprogram even looks like. I'm considering replacing with another cast tone ring rather than the aftermarket sheet metal one like you're using and I used.
I really need help with this, I have the same set up, 1 bolt snapped off, I purchased a cheaper set, not sure if it matter but the bilts are pretty weak, mine is an 05, 4.0sohc. What bolt thread and length would I need. At this point I'm pulling my hair, I think I've been doing it all wrong by trying to bypass using the bolts, probably damaged internal goods at this point. I need my wheels back HELP! PLS!?
Hello Brian you mentioned that sometimes the 4.0 that is receiving the new crankshaft balancer may have to be reprogrammed. Can you expound on that concept
Any word on how to do this? I just replaced my pulley and now I have a misfire on 1 and 5 and I think it’s because of a faulty crankshaft position sensor
I think Ford used to make Jaguar. I have a 94 xj6 that squeels like a rabbit once it gets warmed up. Some one suggested it may be the dampner. It's the in line 6 3.8l I think. Would replacement be similar?
Great video thank you. I have to do this job out on the road and now I no I'm ready to get it done in one trip. Appreciate the good info. Like and subscribed.
Hey Brian, are the oem tools fan clutch kit any better than the junk they have at advance auto parts? I have yet to be able to use their kit on ANY of my cars.
I do have question. I have an 07 Explorer the timing chain went out on. So since the engine is going to be out I'm going to replace all internal parts and proably the new heads to. My question is will I need to take it to Ford and have the engine programmed?
Good video brian. If you already have the harmonic balancer off, why wouldn't you replace the front seal? seems to me that would be cheap insurance for a possible leak in the future. obviously up to the owner but I would have given him the option.
briansmobile1 how big a pain is it to replace? I've done numerous rear and front main seals on other engines but have not done one on the 4.0l. it looks to be in there quite a ways. now that I think about it, if it's not leaking, don't mess with it.
I just did this this job ended up being a bit of a nightmare. The puller bolts were to short and needed 8mmx1.25x100mm long. After installing the dorman harmonic balancer I started getting misfire codes P0300 P0303 p0304. I changed out the crank sensor and spark plugs. I ended up pulling the balancer back off and found that the pickup teeth for the sensor were bent on the new balancer. Make sure to check your new one before install. I just wanted to share this info for others.
I can not get my harmonic balancer (crankshaft) pulley to come off. I've tried using one of those puller kits and it got all bent up. The main bolt is out. I've used PB blaster and WD-40 and it will not come off. My vehicle is a 2007 Mustang 4.0L V6. Any advice on how to get the pulley off? Thank you
@@mikebell4396 The bolt itself came right out. It's the pulley itself I'm having the trouble with. My different type of puller is to be in today. To get the bolt out I did what most of the other videos are showing. Breaker bar supported on something strong and just turn ignition key just enough to get the crank to turn then quickly back off, and it came right off. Do not let the engine start!
Mr. Brian, as a whole, what brand of vehicle have you serviced the most often? I've heard a mechanic around where I live claim that working on Ford vehicles has kept him in good business. Is this your experience as well, or is there a worse offender? I understand that it can just be a regional sales differential, but I'd be interested to hear your experience.
I got a 05 4.0 explorer got a noise between a rattle or a bearing grinding a little. I've took it everywhere.. replaced the tensioner pulley napa mechanic told me not it.. is there any true way where the noise is coming from tired of the guessing games and back yard mechanics. Sounds like the harmonic balancer. The again the noise comes from everywhere. I work on the road so I'm trying to fix it in parking lots..
Need help! I cannot get the balancer off. I got the puller on and it clear ripped to threads out of the harmonic balancer... Should it be that hard to pull off that this happens? Am I missing something?? Yes the center bolt is out and loose
I had an 04 explorer that the same thing happened to. Except it came in on the hook because it ate straight through that crank sensor and became a crank no start.
I am seriously . Stuck on a HB on a 1993 Tbird SC. I bought this car as is and I can't figure out heads from tails ok n this install. I have this aluminum nub I guess u would say. I have no keyway and the new pulley slides on but it does not center without a key way and I am sure it will wobble. I'm don't know whether to pull this stuff off and go from there or slide this on and bolt it up Any help would be appreciated
Slide it on and bolt it up. When you set the calibration for the CKP (crank angle sensor) it will "learn" where it's at. This is one of those infuriating Ford-isms that save them a ton on manufacturing and assembly and drive mechanics crazy for making our job harder and our tool burden more expensive.
Double check for damage or cracks to the Crank Sensor and plug 1st. If that's all okay- pull the HB off again and double check the alignment. If that doesn't work- tow it to someone with an MDS. (Ford scantool)
I looked around for one as well, I went to Fastenal and they had them but they were too pricey for me. What I did was got a piece of 1/2" plywood and then went to either a home supply store (or you could use any hardware store) and purchased a bolt (about 1 inch long) and a nut for each size I wanted. Drill the holes for the bolts about an inch apart, and glue the nuts about an inch apart. I have 1 for SAE that goes from #10 screw all the way to 7/8" and one for METRIC from 10mm to 24mm. By making them with plywood I can use screws to attach them to a wall, OR not. As I recall it cost about $10.00 each.
Thanks and you're welcome Joe! My talk this morning worked out pretty well too! I figured I'd crash one or the other so having accepted that, I didn't stress it and it worked out for both!
please can someone help me i drive a 1990 chevy Beauville Van that has gauge problems all my gauges work in reverse gas battery fuel anybody can help. what causes this how do i fix this
If everything is backwards and it's a 12v system- probably the ground and signal for the whole thing is backwards or the cluster is off date to a fabrication where they're backwards for whatever reason. This is obviously a guess because I haven't looked at it, but it's an educated guess.
briansmobile1 thank you Brian ive checked all the fuses by the way my service engine soon and my Brake light used to come on are all these lights and Gauges on the same circuit
Ok mr man. Everyone is making a big big deal out of getting the bolt out of the harmonic balancer itself. The easiest way I found was to take the fan blade off,remove the tensioner, and of course the fan cover which is the first. My tensioner did exactly like yours. So I went and bought a chainvice grip a tightened it as tight as possible. Then take a small chain and wrap it around the alternator pully then pull the wrench as tight as you are comfortable with and hold it. It will pop
I keep a lot of old bolts from motor swaps etc and organize them. If I have to, I'll cut one and weld in a piece of bolt I have alot of or wheel stud I've pulled. I have a shop tour video on my bolt collection/system somewhere from 2010.
Thanks for telling me. The truth is, most people on my analytic s watch about 3 and a half minutes and sort off. I'm like the reference section of the library. People show up to look some fact or info up and then go into using it in the real world. I'm happy to accommodate though. It just takes on average an hour of work per minute of video to do with lighting, filming, and editing. Those 45 minute videos either take all week or they get rushed and look bad such that they're hard to watch.
Agreed. Love the long stuff. I watch a lot of Eric O. Lot of long stuff there. Likes to go into detail. Love it. Been watchin u for years brian. Def. Love ur videos. Def. Started watchin u and ETCG first Also...doorman is all they had? Lol
I wouldn't pay much attention to the 3.5 minute people - they are not bored, they are looking for their problem and maybe this video covered it. Turns out you are not psychic so it's not about their problem and they just leave to searching more videos for their problem. Bang for the buck, your stuff can't be beat. I watch to the end for BFATE bonus of course, but in general I don't have the problem talked about nor the vehicle either. Just the good info, links to neat tools, tips, and etc,. I can apply elsewhere. Don't be afraid of a long one anymore than a super short one, we tend to like what we can get. Long ones sound like a lot of work, so just don't burn yourself out on them please and do what you want to. OMG it's raining again.
When it comes to needing a bunch of specialty tools and working with delicate parts.. in my opinion the boring approach is the best way to go so that way we DIY'ers don't ruin our cars. When it comes to suspension parts.. The boring approach is frowned upon.
Didn't help that you didn't show us the new one going on. Mine isn't going all the way back I assume it's because I reused the old bolt. I also assume you had trouble as well thus not showing us
Will a regular harmonic balancer installer not work on this engine? Amazon has a few, and far as i know $nap On still sells them. Once you use one, it'll forever leave a cheery grin on your face just thinking of it! And the balancer story: I'm not a race fan, but years ago channel flipping came across one. At about that same time they stopped the race and the 'commentators' said something about a hazard on the track... the camera's quickly found a small object moving around on it's own. Once zoomed in, it was obviously a balancer spinning/dancing like mad on it's nose... and the good ol' boy 'commentators' seemingly hadn't a clue to it's identity; till someone told them. Guess you had to be there... :)
Tools that make this job possible/easier as shown in the video.
Fan clutch tool set here → amzn.to/2vyiFs2
Lisle coolant funnel here → amzn.to/2wG1MvY
Metabo impact gun here → amzn.to/2wFykGh
Find your next fun pocket knife here → amzn.to/2vyfwIG
Bolt Puller set here → amzn.to/2vR0Wi5
Xtreme Green high pressure lube here → www.cs4000.net/XtremeGreen/me...
Great video Brian. I have been working on my personal vehicles for years, and had most of the tools required, but the tips on the Puller bolts (M8-1.25) & longer center bolt (M12-1.5 X 90MM) were great. Unfortunately, we had to go to Fastenal across town to get the bolt, as none of the supply stores had the 1.5 thread pitch. Also, we had to put tension on the Harmonic Balancer with the Puller, then tap on the Balancer with a hammer to get it to start moving, and nearly stripped the Puller threads. We also had to pull the starter (simple removal on this vehicle) to hold the crank still to break loose the M12 Bolt. Wedging a large slot screw driver in the fly wheel did the trick, but we tried most everything else trying to get the bolt loose. Clearly over torqued! I wish I had the patience to video some of my projects, so thank you. YOU TUBE is great for providing this type of information, weather it's automobiles, home, computers, etc. Thank you YOU TUBE!
Just an FYI when breaking crank bolts loose as long as it left hand threds you can use a long breaker bar and prop it on the frame and use the starter to break the bolt loose just food for thought
Thanks for writing this.
Thanks for the great tip! I just removed and reinstalled my harmonic balancer (to replace the leaking crank seal) on my 2003 Ranger with the same motor as this sport Trac, the 4.0 sohc. Have a couple comments that may help others. Napa's version of the rental fan clutch removal tool includes the needed 57mm and 36mm wrenches and works great. The "bolt style wheel puller" kit from harbor freight is 20 bucks and works great for this application. The kit even included the correct size bolts to thread into the pulley.
I removed the harmonic balancer bolt and took it to the hardware store to try to buy a longer one for pulling the balancer back in. M12 x 1.5 ended up not being the correct thread pitch as recommended in the video. I believe it would be 1.75 or 2, but I don't know for sure because my hardware store didn't have one that matched. I ended up not needing one though, the original bolt was long enough to pull the balancer in.
I don't have the fancy impact that fits inbetween the radiator and the pulley. To get the balancer bolt loose, I put a long breaker bar on the bolt and rested it on the passenger side frame rail. Activated the starter for just an instant and it broke loose real easy.
I also didn't know that the bolt is TTY and shouldn't be reused. My local parts stores didn't have any in stock. Make sure to get one before disassembling like I did.
Exellent video. About to tackle this with my son on his 07 Ranger. Knowing bolt size, length and thread for everything ahead of time is gonna be a big help. Because of your video I get to look like a master mechanic that gets everything right on the very first try with no unnecessary steps....hahaha! Thank you for putting in the effort to make stuff like this.
What method did you go with to remove the crank bolt?
I will probably never touch some of the cars you work on, but seriously enjoy and appreciate the approach and care you bring to each repair. And I usually learn a lot. Great work!
Thanks for the video! That friggin center nut was a bear to break loose! My neighbor (a mechanic who I hate to ask to do work for me) gave me a tip: Use an 18" breaker bar, long enough to rest the handle end on the frame (drivers side). The breaker bar is attached to the socket and the socket is securely on the nut. Give a one second ignition engagement (just a quick turn of key and off again - you are not trying to get the engine running). Since the harmonic pulley turns clockwise, the nut will rotate counter-clockwise and release. I spent an hour trying to get that thing out before I gave in and asked him if there was a trick to it. Worked like a charm. Your impact wrench is great, but there is a cheaper alternative.
Worked for me! Thanks to Scotty K. channel. 19mm and a long breaker bar, belt off, crank but don't start the engine, off she comes. mine was 06 ford explorer, 4.0 v6 4x4
I rarely have any questions pertaining to the subject at hand because you do a great job capturing all the steps.
This is true.
Basic information? No way, you always share great information. Always appreciated.
Thanks. This was exactly what I needed. It got the explorer back on the road.
Hey Brian thx for taking the time to make this vid. Along with other videos, i enjoy watching them even though i have not come accross some of your situations on other vehicles; BUT i have already come accross this problem on this kind of vehicle. I do remember taking it off from the bottom without E. Fan clutch interference.
Welcome!
This is by far the best video I’ve seen on this dreaded issue...
Thank you for posting this.
Great teacher! 👍 as a person which English is not the primary language, this is gold, I appreciate that you speak in a matter that is understandable from start to finish, and the way you explain the process is also great including the camera angles and the tools required for the job. Fantastic video! 😎😎😎💪💪💪🔟✅️
Whats the best way to keep the crankshaft from turning while torquing the harmonic balancer bolt on?
I'm looking for that answer right now
I don't even need to know this but I clicked to watch it just because Brian is so darn, gosh entertaining!
Yeah, but I enjoyed it anyway too, lol.
True... and this is not even my year model. There wouldn't be any grumbling about paying educators a decent wage if they were all like him. Plus, I'd definitely be much smarter.
Great video, but you never showed how you got the HB off? I have a 06 Ford Explorer, 4.0 v6. The inside of my HB looked fine, but with engine off, ran my finger inside and it was in pieces, couldn't tell from the outside but from a little shaking at idle. Same issue but in your video @ 7:12-7:16, those clamps with the 3/8 and 1/2 hose removal tool will not budge. Badly rusted and seized on really bad, I tried hitting, heating, oil, everything.... still cant remove unless I get new oil cooler lines or saw it off and ruin the radiator. Anyone have any suggestions?
Brian, Recommending adding the tools needed for the job in the description below, example: 8mm,10mm, 13mm, 36mm fan tool, 56mm skinny fan pulley tool, pop rivet interior removal tool, pick tool, long 3in hardened bolts for HB removal, 19mm deep, 3/8 & 1/2 hose A/T clamp removal (if not badly rusted).
The tools I rented from auto zone for the HB removal bolts were too short at around 2 1/2 inches, need minimum 3 inches to get more than 2 threads into the HB with the puller. So, Guess I'll be making a trip to Lowes Hardware if Auto Zone doesn't have a bigger set.
Oh, btw, the radiator is a pain in the rear to remove! Discharge the A/C, Get some rags for the A/T oil "if" you get the hoses loose (I couldn't) located at the bottom of the radiator, and you have to pull the radiator and A/C condenser at the same time. The radiator bracket will not allow you to just pull the radiator. Good Luck and enjoy.
Brian, I have a 2000 F150 4.2 and from underneath the truck (3" lift) I can easily see the Harmonic Balancer. That also means it gets thrashed by massive puddles and is unprotected. What is the name of the part that shields the HB?
Best video instruction for me, thank you. I am just starting this replacement, my crank pully has move back towards the engine. Could this be normal or is the timing cover seal bad to allow this movement? thanks if you can tell me why the pully might have moved the 1/2 ". Thanks again
Harmonic Balancer went bad on my Ford 3.0 engine and ate through the timing chain cover... Out of desperation,, I used a mixture of J.B.Weld and Steel Wool to patch the rather large hole in the aluminum timing chain cover... Over 5 years time and 100k miles later and it's still fixed with no oil leak. BTW,,, Thanks for another great video Brian...
501, Thanks for the reminder tip about steel wool and J B Weld.
Reminder Tip? You mean I'm not the only person to have tried that? Good to know...
Do you have a specific video for changing harmonic balance for a 2007 Ford mustang, v6? Your video has been the closest, and most informative, but smartest video as yet! I have this saved to my phone. I'm a gal, learned about wrenching on older cars, but 1st time doing this on my 2007 mustang. I'm already changing out the radiator so this happening was the best timing! I'll keep watching or if you'd hv another person's video to watch,video greatly appreciate it! Great video! Great clues about putting it back on, and the sizes of what might be needed. My neighbor is a retired master mechanic, so hoping we have a puller that will work. I've never heard of that lubricant either. I don't mind if it costs more, just as long as its a good product. Thx for the info! Liz
Not sure if I'm correct or not but you said the balancer bolt was three and a half inches long how long is the extra bolt to put it on a crank I did not catch it in your video.
Thank you
Having that longer bolt and the Matabo? Those to me are the top of the great tips. Thanks Brian.
Need help ASAP. I'm currently swapping engines, remanufactured long block. While trying to line the converter stud I moved the flex plate using the crankshaft pulley bolt and turned it counterclockwise a 16th inch and both loosened up. Since this is a TTY do I have to replace? My problem is now that the engine is installed how do I tighten it 37 ft lbs + 90 degrees without the engine turning over too? Long block is already installed
Hey Brian - Is it necessary to also replace the crankshaft position sensor when completing this job?
Pretty good video. I have one of these >cars< for my wife. It's been a real lemon so far with quite a few repairs that have been above and beyond, now this has gone out, so am taking it to a shop as I don't have a shop nor the tools to do it. Pretty good explanation on everything though. Thanks!
How did you keep the motor from turning while tightening?
Also, I put the original back on and the replacement, and I can't get the pulley on far enough to line up, so it shreds the belt.
Can the balance ring that fits on the back of the pulley without having to buy the pulley be purchased anywhere?
Brian, I’m swapping the motor in my 2004 explorer with a 1997 4.0 sohc out of a ranger. I know everything on the long block needs to be switched over from my blown up motor, but does the balancer need to?
I'm working on same engine different car though but same stuff applies,I really enjoyed video didn't fast ⏩ at all never boring keep up the good work bro
Word,.... Advance auto it costs you $129.00 to rent their HB puller and it don't work,... none of the bolts are long enough.
I had a puller but the bolt stores were closed,... so we rented that one,.... waste of time.
Got the bolts brian'smobile1 recommends and the Harmonic Balancer came right off.
We used the big breaking bar to break the bolt loose a 3/4 socket and bumped the starter and the bolt broke loose.
$14.00 to buy a Harmonic Balance puller at harbor freight,...A 3 armed gear puller works as well.
But you will probably have to remove the radiator,.....nightmare*****
But now my sons Ford Ranger is back on the road again.
Thanks brian'smobile1 great video.
Thanks for the video, Brian. I was wondering if there were symptoms that indicated to you that it was going bad or if it simply failed. I’ve got an ‘04 Ranger 4.0 with a very slight vibration at all speeds which after inspecting balancing and swapping tires and replacing hub assemblies is still present. Trying to determine if it’s possibly the harmonic balancer or even a bad engine mount. Any insight you could give would be appreciated. Thank you in advance! Have a great New Year!
Thanks man for uploading this video, this is very informative with step by step which is pretty cool. Thanks again 🤗
Thank you for the video! I just replaced my harmonic balancer on my 2008 v6 mustang. I do have a slight issue though. The new balancer has the different exciter ring just like on your video. After everything was hooked back up, the engine hesitated to start. On the second try, it fired up and idled for 5 to 10 minutes. The idle seemed ok. I decided to go for a test drive, and noticed that my wrench light was on showing a code P0320. I shut the car off, and it will not start again. I'm having some worries go through my mind because the balancer turned a little bit while I was trying to get the bolt off. Can this throw the timing off? Could it be as simple as getting a reprogram? I should also mention that the old balancer did not separate. I replaced it due to some minor engine vibration. I did not replace the crankshaft sensor as it was not damaged. The new harmonic balancer is a Ford factory part.
I think you're good. I would double check for the Harmonic balancer to be on far enough but not too far. Also check the crank sensor again for damage. If those are good, disconnect the battery and or clear codes and try again. If that doesn't work, get it programmed.
Okay, thank you. I have a feeling it is the sensor. I may have damaged it when I took it off to clean it. I have a new one on the way.
Hi Brian!
I too just replaced the balancer on my ‘08 Explorer. The new balancer does have a different exciter ring as you mentioned. I am getting the same P0340 code even after trying a new crank sensor.
How do I reprogram?
Thanks
How does one get it reprogrammed? I misfire at highway speeds around 2000RPMs since I replaced mine. Ford dealership acts like they have no clue what a reprogram even looks like. I'm considering replacing with another cast tone ring rather than the aftermarket sheet metal one like you're using and I used.
I really need help with this, I have the same set up, 1 bolt snapped off, I purchased a cheaper set, not sure if it matter but the bilts are pretty weak, mine is an 05, 4.0sohc. What bolt thread and length would I need. At this point I'm pulling my hair, I think I've been doing it all wrong by trying to bypass using the bolts, probably damaged internal goods at this point. I need my wheels back HELP! PLS!?
Hello Brian you mentioned that sometimes the 4.0 that is receiving the new crankshaft balancer may have to be reprogrammed. Can you expound on that concept
Any word on how to do this? I just replaced my pulley and now I have a misfire on 1 and 5 and I think it’s because of a faulty crankshaft position sensor
I think Ford used to make Jaguar. I have a 94 xj6 that squeels like a rabbit once it gets warmed up. Some one suggested it may be the dampner. It's the in line 6 3.8l I think. Would replacement be similar?
Outstanding job, thank you.
Great video thank you. I have to do this job out on the road and now I no I'm ready to get it done in one trip. Appreciate the good info. Like and subscribed.
Where did you find the bolt to suck in the new balancer
Hey Brian, are the oem tools fan clutch kit any better than the junk they have at advance auto parts? I have yet to be able to use their kit on ANY of my cars.
Can you use a national seal or a oe seal...
92 Ford ranger 4.0
Does or seal clip on H.Balancer.
Dumb question but in installing a harmonic balance damaged a tooth does this effect crank sensor now have a engine fail safe mode
So I have a question..... I have a broken bolt in one of the 2 8m ×1.25 ....... What do you recommend????
I do have question. I have an 07 Explorer the timing chain went out on. So since the engine is going to be out I'm going to replace all internal parts and proably the new heads to. My question is will I need to take it to Ford and have the engine programmed?
No of you do things right that shouldn't happen
Good video brian. If you already have the harmonic balancer off, why wouldn't you replace the front seal? seems to me that would be cheap insurance for a possible leak in the future. obviously up to the owner but I would have given him the option.
That's a good observation. The answer is risk, time and cost.
briansmobile1 how big a pain is it to replace? I've done numerous rear and front main seals on other engines but have not done one on the 4.0l. it looks to be in there quite a ways. now that I think about it, if it's not leaking, don't mess with it.
Thanks Brian... luckily I don't drive an Exploder.... but it's still nice to know how to do the job...!
I love your channel and I hope to know just as much as you about cars one day
I just did this this job ended up being a bit of a nightmare. The puller bolts were to short and needed 8mmx1.25x100mm long. After installing the dorman harmonic balancer I started getting misfire codes P0300 P0303 p0304. I changed out the crank sensor and spark plugs. I ended up pulling the balancer back off and found that the pickup teeth for the sensor were bent on the new balancer. Make sure to check your new one before install. I just wanted to share this info for others.
Hey Brian, love your videos man. What’s the labor time on a job like this?
how long should the two m8 by 1.25 be?? thanks in advance
Super thanks for getting directly to the point
Which way is the harmonic bolt threaded ??
I can not get my harmonic balancer (crankshaft) pulley to come off. I've tried using one of those puller kits and it got all bent up. The main bolt is out. I've used PB blaster and WD-40 and it will not come off. My vehicle is a 2007 Mustang 4.0L V6. Any advice on how to get the pulley off? Thank you
everyday'80sdude have you figured it out? How did you get the center-bolt out? Same vehicle, same problem😫
@@mikebell4396 The bolt itself came right out. It's the pulley itself I'm having the trouble with. My different type of puller is to be in today. To get the bolt out I did what most of the other videos are showing. Breaker bar supported on something strong and just turn ignition key just enough to get the crank to turn then quickly back off, and it came right off. Do not let the engine start!
Mr. Brian, as a whole, what brand of vehicle have you serviced the most often? I've heard a mechanic around where I live claim that working on Ford vehicles has kept him in good business. Is this your experience as well, or is there a worse offender? I understand that it can just be a regional sales differential, but I'd be interested to hear your experience.
What length are those m8 1.25 bolts plz
Thanks for this video!
Torque spec on the balancer bolt?
I got a 05 4.0 explorer got a noise between a rattle or a bearing grinding a little. I've took it everywhere.. replaced the tensioner pulley napa mechanic told me not it.. is there any true way where the noise is coming from tired of the guessing games and back yard mechanics. Sounds like the harmonic balancer. The again the noise comes from everywhere. I work on the road so I'm trying to fix it in parking lots..
You're the man!!!
Good analogy with the gas pedal and principles
Love ur channel
Thanks bro. Really appreciate your skills
Need help! I cannot get the balancer off. I got the puller on and it clear ripped to threads out of the harmonic balancer... Should it be that hard to pull off that this happens? Am I missing something?? Yes the center bolt is out and loose
Did you ever get it this just happened to me
Ok, where do you get a new bolt?
I have looked and looked and get all kind of answers but none of the are right
I took out the four bolts that go threw the pulley on the fan clutch and now I can't get the fan off an the volts won't go back in cuz the sensor
I had an 04 explorer that the same thing happened to. Except it came in on the hook because it ate straight through that crank sensor and became a crank no start.
I have to give the owner credit for catching this as well as she did.
I am seriously . Stuck on a HB on a 1993 Tbird SC. I bought this car as is and I can't figure out heads from tails ok n this install. I have this aluminum nub I guess u would say. I have no keyway and the new pulley slides on but it does not center without a key way and I am sure it will wobble. I'm don't know whether to pull this stuff off and go from there or slide this on and bolt it up
Any help would be appreciated
Slide it on and bolt it up. When you set the calibration for the CKP (crank angle sensor) it will "learn" where it's at. This is one of those infuriating Ford-isms that save them a ton on manufacturing and assembly and drive mechanics crazy for making our job harder and our tool burden more expensive.
How many miles on this explorer?
I have the same truck. We replaced the harmonic balancer but now it won't start. If it is unaligned how can I align it after having cranked it?
Double check for damage or cracks to the Crank Sensor and plug 1st. If that's all okay- pull the HB off again and double check the alignment. If that doesn't work- tow it to someone with an MDS. (Ford scantool)
That bolt thread guide...where did you get it?
I looked around for one as well, I went to Fastenal and they had them but they were too pricey for me.
What I did was got a piece of 1/2" plywood and then went to either a home supply store (or you could use any hardware store) and purchased a bolt (about 1 inch long) and a nut for each size I wanted.
Drill the holes for the bolts about an inch apart, and glue the nuts about an inch apart.
I have 1 for SAE that goes from #10 screw all the way to 7/8" and one for METRIC from 10mm to 24mm.
By making them with plywood I can use screws to attach them to a wall, OR not.
As I recall it cost about $10.00 each.
The garbage at Napa. It was busted where it bolts to the shelf at the base and they let me pick it.
That's a very good idea. They are super pricy at the store, more me, more than worth the labor.
Should be a helpful video to many people
Another guy says to install a longer bolt in the crank and use an impact wrench and damper remover to remove the damper.
Did you have to reprogram it?
Thank you. This helped out a lot!
Awesome Video very informative!
36mm fan clutch wrench is too big for my 07 ford explorer and i can not seem to find one that fits
It's a 34
I would like to see how you dismount everything
Thankyou brian. I wachinng yours video .you do good job..i follow you
Nice one Brian - wow I couldn't think of anything , you covered it all plus plus. 👍
That was a really good video Brian.Thanks for all the pro info.
Thanks and you're welcome Joe! My talk this morning worked out pretty well too! I figured I'd crash one or the other so having accepted that, I didn't stress it and it worked out for both!
please can someone help me i drive a 1990 chevy Beauville Van that has gauge problems all my gauges work in reverse gas battery fuel anybody can help. what causes this how do i fix this
If everything is backwards and it's a 12v system- probably the ground and signal for the whole thing is backwards or the cluster is off date to a fabrication where they're backwards for whatever reason. This is obviously a guess because I haven't looked at it, but it's an educated guess.
briansmobile1 okay
briansmobile1 thank you Brian ive checked all the fuses by the way my service engine soon and my Brake light used to come on are all these lights and Gauges on the same circuit
have you ever used a break out box for the D L C connector ? question has nothing too do with the present video lol thanks
Thanks man very nice Explanation
Ok mr man. Everyone is making a big big deal out of getting the bolt out of the harmonic balancer itself. The easiest way I found was to take the fan blade off,remove the tensioner, and of course the fan cover which is the first.
My tensioner did exactly like yours. So I went and bought a chainvice grip a tightened it as tight as possible. Then take a small chain and wrap it around the alternator pully then pull the wrench as tight as you are comfortable with and hold it. It will pop
For future exploder repair men, ace hardwear has the m12 1.5mm
what happen if you rotate the balancer.... is that bad
Love the cap. Have one just like it. Diesel Power!!!
great video,.. this is whats wrong with my son's ranger
Thank you
What kind of impact is that?????
i used a snap on 3/8 drive cordless.
Well done sir.
They make solid fluid dampers they are great
I replaced one on mine, as long as you have a gear puller, it's easy
Where in the hell did you find a bolt that matches but is longer? I’ve been to 8 different stores and nobody has that size
I keep a lot of old bolts from motor swaps etc and organize them. If I have to, I'll cut one and weld in a piece of bolt I have alot of or wheel stud I've pulled. I have a shop tour video on my bolt collection/system somewhere from 2010.
Great video. Thanks for not being a ROBOT. LOL
I miss what you call the long and boring videos. .
Thanks for telling me. The truth is, most people on my analytic s watch about 3 and a half minutes and sort off. I'm like the reference section of the library. People show up to look some fact or info up and then go into using it in the real world. I'm happy to accommodate though. It just takes on average an hour of work per minute of video to do with lighting, filming, and editing. Those 45 minute videos either take all week or they get rushed and look bad such that they're hard to watch.
Agreed. Love the long stuff. I watch a lot of Eric O. Lot of long stuff there. Likes to go into detail. Love it. Been watchin u for years brian. Def. Love ur videos. Def. Started watchin u and ETCG first
Also...doorman is all they had? Lol
I wouldn't pay much attention to the 3.5 minute people - they are not bored, they are looking for their problem and maybe this video covered it. Turns out you are not psychic so it's not about their problem and they just leave to searching more videos for their problem. Bang for the buck, your stuff can't be beat. I watch to the end for BFATE bonus of course, but in general I don't have the problem talked about nor the vehicle either. Just the good info, links to neat tools, tips, and etc,. I can apply elsewhere. Don't be afraid of a long one anymore than a super short one, we tend to like what we can get. Long ones sound like a lot of work, so just don't burn yourself out on them please and do what you want to. OMG it's raining again.
When it comes to needing a bunch of specialty tools and working with delicate parts.. in my opinion the boring approach is the best way to go so that way we DIY'ers don't ruin our cars. When it comes to suspension parts.. The boring approach is frowned upon.
Metabo over the DeWalt?
peter murdock inquiring minds want to know. I love my dewalt 3/8 20volt.
I want to know too
@@TraceyAllen Milwaukee is the best
Didn't help that you didn't show us the new one going on. Mine isn't going all the way back I assume it's because I reused the old bolt. I also assume you had trouble as well thus not showing us
Thank you!!!!!!!
You have got a lookalike on TH-cam: the guy from Stacey Burke Trading.
You didn't even show your viewers how to take off the old harmonic balancer
Thanks for the video,,, the devil is in the details your video helps!
Will a regular harmonic balancer installer not work on this engine? Amazon has a few, and far as i know $nap On still sells them. Once you use one, it'll forever leave a cheery grin on your face just thinking of it! And the balancer story: I'm not a race fan, but years ago channel flipping came across one. At about that same time they stopped the race and the 'commentators' said something about a hazard on the track... the camera's quickly found a small object moving around on it's own. Once zoomed in, it was obviously a balancer spinning/dancing like mad on it's nose... and the good ol' boy 'commentators' seemingly hadn't a clue to it's identity; till someone told them. Guess you had to be there... :)
The main thing which is show putting the Balancer you didn't show):