Good vid. It is more important to glue when it is below 80% humidity than anything else and secondly if Hypalon to sand the fabric until it is like suede.. You can use the glue as single part but it is slower and a bit less hard/strong. But why do that when you can get the hardener on its own. So if you want to buy some more hardener here it is: 1) Bostik 9101 150ml (col0oured) [enough for 4 litres of glue! for Hypalon and pvc glue, 2 Bostik 9105 300ml clear coloured fr PVC/Hypalon 3 Bostik Desmodur (more expensive but better in my experience) 750ml for both Hypalon and PVC glue. The first two are quite inexpensive compared to the laughable prices asked for a 250ml 2 part repair kit. So now you can activate your remnant glue to your heart's content. Oh and keep the hardener in the fridge.
I used leather glue from our local £1 shop to stick two skeg housing onto inflatable canoes, fins slide & lock into housings & they help to keep the canoes on a straight course, so far they have held well, use generously & promptly stick together, put heavy weight over area & leave for a day. Job done, enjoy your time on the water.
I've repaired quite a few holes (PVC) over the years and have always gone for 1 part glue, just gluing both sides, let it go tacky before applying. Definitely not the recommended method but never had a problem with the repairs! I leave it for at least 24 hours before the tender goes back into the water which I feel is probably my reason for the successful repairs!
I replaced two ancient valves on my Avon following, mostly, your video tutorial. This title had me a bit worried, but I am glad to see the glue will be fine. LOL.
How strange. I wonder if we've all been had. I always assume that two-part products are better. I have half a tin of the gloopy stuff and I bet that the fixer/hardener/activator has evaporated by now. I would have ordered a new set of both - and it's not cheap. Thanks for the tip. I know that you don't need to abrade PVC (unlike Hyperlon), so I guess its just a case of the gloop melting the PVC plastic a bit.
@@SailingwiththeFoxwellFamily it's a thinner, acetone, mek or whatever the glue has as an active ingredient is the recommended thinner but acetone works too. I use contact cement and a splash of acetone to glue pvc to hypalon.
It might be an accelerator rather than harderner which is why your repair is ok. Might just needed more time to dry without the small component. Tenacious tape is good enough for dinghy repairs nowadays rather than needing glue patches.
Hello, the second part is the accelerator for speeding up the curing process. Plumbing PVC glue can also be used, but you need to use a heat gun, or hair dryer to activate the glue.
PVC glue on PVC only is not long lasting on boats. And can't go on Hypalon. Reheating PVC glue works for final bond but you can't reheat 2 part Hypalon glue. And the part 2 is not just an accelerator it reduces the glue and makes it harder/stronger.
@@i1uvpreppyxo887 I agree with you about hypalon fabrics, however, I did not mention hypalon in my last comment. The vast majority of inexpensive (read really cheap) inflatable boats will use PVC only. Hypalon is used by the big brand names like Zodiac, and Saturn boat making companies, and a boat if similar size to an Intex, or Sun Force will sell about 5 to 10 times the price. I've used professional PVC glue on my 12 feet Sun Force to patch a 5/8" hole ( a drilling accident) and the patch is still holding strong after 5 years.
I wish there was an expandable foam invented to fill these dinghy's with, I have had endless problems trying to glue too the transom ! By the way thanks for the great video. !
People have filled them. But a transom repair is actually one of the easiest (so long as the transom is in ood condition). Once glued you inflate and attach the transom as you do it then use a long strap with a tensioning clip right around the tubes to compress the tubes onto the transom.
Years ago I had an Achilles hypalon boat that got a 3 or four inch hole in it. I put a patch inside and outside. In those days, before the internet, I wasn't aware of a marine store selling glue for it. there was an industrial rubberr supply company that sold me Tiptop SC2000. Now it's called Rema SC2000. They were reluctant to sell to the public. It won't come off your hands and has to wear off and should only be used with good ventalation as it is poison to your kidneys and liver. It"s used to repair conveyor belts in industry. It isn't a contact cement. Of course the patch inside helped but the bit of excess around the external patch never broke down. You may have bettter luck using that on your transom than the contact cement normally used.
Yes you can use as a one part. The hardener is said to give more heat resistance. I just use the single. Do not put a patch over a patch For small leaks I use a sealant which will seal other leaks besides the intended ones as well.
The glue I bought came with the main glue and the additive. However, the instructions stated the additive was only to be used when repairing Hyperion boats.
Thats interesting, not sure that's what was on my instructions as they sold a different glue kit for different materials, but I should check next time I'm on the boat just in case
Hi Chuck. Yup, we are happy with it. I thought Id show everyone because its one thing sticking a patch over a small hole, a completely different thing cutting an existing whole and making it even bigger before repairing but it all worked out ok. Good to hear from you again
Good vid. It is more important to glue when it is below 80% humidity than anything else and secondly if Hypalon to sand the fabric until it is like suede.. You can use the glue as single part but it is slower and a bit less hard/strong. But why do that when you can get the hardener on its own.
So if you want to buy some more hardener here it is: 1) Bostik 9101 150ml (col0oured) [enough for 4 litres of glue! for Hypalon and pvc glue,
2 Bostik 9105 300ml clear coloured fr PVC/Hypalon
3 Bostik Desmodur (more expensive but better in my experience) 750ml for both Hypalon and PVC glue.
The first two are quite inexpensive compared to the laughable prices asked for a 250ml 2 part repair kit.
So now you can activate your remnant glue to your heart's content. Oh and keep the hardener in the fridge.
Good advice, thanks
I used leather glue from our local £1 shop to stick two skeg housing onto inflatable canoes, fins slide & lock into housings & they help to keep the canoes on a straight course, so far they have held well, use generously & promptly stick together, put heavy weight over area & leave for a day. Job done, enjoy your time on the water.
Hi Bruce. Not heard of using leather glue before, good to know if we find ourselves with out the correct stuff sometime. Thanks for the info
I've repaired quite a few holes (PVC) over the years and have always gone for 1 part glue, just gluing both sides, let it go tacky before applying. Definitely not the recommended method but never had a problem with the repairs! I leave it for at least 24 hours before the tender goes back into the water which I feel is probably my reason for the successful repairs!
Hi Paul. Yes I think the time bit is important, keeping the pressure and water away from it until its fully set definitely helps ensure a good joint.
I replaced two ancient valves on my Avon following, mostly, your video tutorial. This title had me a bit worried, but I am glad to see the glue will be fine. LOL.
Glad it helped
Good job Ian, glad all is well, look forward to your cruise! Cheers, Dan
Thanks Dan 👍
Wotcher! Nice work. Those valves can be such a pita and are so non-standard. Good point!
Hope you and the family are all well Ian?
Hi Ruaraidh. Yup, you would think it would be in everyone's interest to work around a standard size and thread wouldnt you
Hello again. Methyl ethyl Chloride (MEK) is the best solvent for PVC. Acetone is acceptable, but won't give you the best adhesion.
Thanks
How strange. I wonder if we've all been had. I always assume that two-part products are better. I have half a tin of the gloopy stuff and I bet that the fixer/hardener/activator has evaporated by now. I would have ordered a new set of both - and it's not cheap. Thanks for the tip.
I know that you don't need to abrade PVC (unlike Hyperlon), so I guess its just a case of the gloop melting the PVC plastic a bit.
Hi Paul. Yup I think we have all been had. I have no idea what the second part is meant to do but the goopy stuff definitely works fine on its own.
@@SailingwiththeFoxwellFamily it's a thinner, acetone, mek or whatever the glue has as an active ingredient is the recommended thinner but acetone works too. I use contact cement and a splash of acetone to glue pvc to hypalon.
It might be an accelerator rather than harderner which is why your repair is ok. Might just needed more time to dry without the small component. Tenacious tape is good enough for dinghy repairs nowadays rather than needing glue patches.
Hi Andy. Ive never heard of that, thanks for the heads up, I'll get some for next time.
Hello, the second part is the accelerator for speeding up the curing process. Plumbing PVC glue can also be used, but you need to use a heat gun, or hair dryer to activate the glue.
PVC glue on PVC only is not long lasting on boats. And can't go on Hypalon. Reheating PVC glue works for final bond but you can't reheat 2 part Hypalon glue. And the part 2 is not just an accelerator it reduces the glue and makes it harder/stronger.
@@i1uvpreppyxo887 I agree with you about hypalon fabrics, however, I did not mention hypalon in my last comment. The vast majority of inexpensive (read really cheap) inflatable boats will use PVC only. Hypalon is used by the big brand names like Zodiac, and Saturn boat making companies, and a boat if similar size to an Intex, or Sun Force will sell about 5 to 10 times the price. I've used professional PVC glue on my 12 feet Sun Force to patch a 5/8" hole ( a drilling accident) and the patch is still holding strong after 5 years.
I wish there was an expandable foam invented to fill these dinghy's with, I have had endless problems trying to glue too the transom ! By the way thanks for the great video. !
That's a great idea!
People have filled them. But a transom repair is actually one of the easiest (so long as the transom is in ood condition). Once glued you inflate and attach the transom as you do it then use a long strap with a tensioning clip right around the tubes to compress the tubes onto the transom.
Years ago I had an Achilles hypalon boat that got a 3 or four inch hole in it. I put a patch inside and outside. In those days, before the internet, I wasn't aware of a marine store selling glue for it. there was an industrial rubberr supply company that sold me Tiptop SC2000. Now it's called Rema SC2000. They were reluctant to sell to the public. It won't come off your hands and has to wear off and should only be used with good ventalation as it is poison to your kidneys and liver. It"s used to repair conveyor belts in industry. It isn't a contact cement. Of course the patch inside helped but the bit of excess around the external patch never broke down. You may have bettter luck using that on your transom than the contact cement normally used.
Yes you can use as a one part. The hardener is said to give more heat resistance. I just use the single. Do not put a patch over a patch For small leaks I use a sealant which will seal other leaks besides the intended ones as well.
Thanks, good advice
How did the repair hold up?
Excellent, its still working well today.
The glue I bought came with the main glue and the additive. However, the instructions stated the additive was only to be used when repairing Hyperion boats.
Thats interesting, not sure that's what was on my instructions as they sold a different glue kit for different materials, but I should check next time I'm on the boat just in case
The glue is different but the additive in many cases is the same.
Well it's four years later and it's still holding, so you must have done something right.
Hi Chuck. Yup, we are happy with it. I thought Id show everyone because its one thing sticking a patch over a small hole, a completely different thing cutting an existing whole and making it even bigger before repairing but it all worked out ok. Good to hear from you again