My 2015 ford territory has been having this issue for a while. Finally gave in and took it to ford dealer and they are going to replace EGRs. Your video is great and i wish i came across it sooner.
Thanks very much for your video. Like Martin Bramston in his comment, I have a Territory diesel now with 80000 km, and I love it, and I am also a bit worried about long term reliability. A few weeks ago, a DSC fault came up, and it reappeared two or three times, but it has not reoccurred. Your video gives me confidence not to worry too much. Thanks again.
This a great video, we have been chasing our intermittent problem for over a year. The dealer we brought the car off spent over 2.5k trying to fix it. In the end it was the fuel system.
Crazy. Ford could have saved people a lot of money in unnecessary repairs if they had put more thought into their error codes. Like a separate error code for DSC fault if triggered by an engine problem.
thanks for the detailed video ,great info. I ,too have a 2014 Territory from new and it has been a great car for the last 160K klms. But I am worried about the future reliability of this car as it appears when things go wrong ,they become a real test of patience and tenacity and you have shown both those traits. Well done! Timing belt replacement is coming soon and I am beginning to panic as I will do this myself after seeing very instructive videos on TH-cam. many thanks for the inspiration. Martin
There's a few little things - brackets with nuts facing the wrong way etc. Make me want to throw my toys. Unfortunately true of almost every car on the road today. The old Holden 3.8 - hailed as the mechanics friend. Draining the coolant from the block on one of those is a PITA - pain in the arm.
I changed my fuel filter today and the car wouldn't restart, I couldn't hear the fuel pump running in the tank, after some panicking about what to do I thought I'd try bashing the fuel tank which to my surprise worked, kicking the fuel pump into action and priming the system 😁
I recently purchased a 102,000 klm 2014 example with a check engine warning and after doing a code check my LH rear light was faulty and 3 fuses were blown. I also gave it a full service and had 2 new A/T tyres fitted to the rear and a few bushings all replaced by myself and wow it passed the RWC. A nice buy for $3,000 and have already been offered $10,000 which I'm seriously thinking of accepting.
Hi David, thanks for this excellent video. I have the same model Territory and although mine is running quite good it's not as economical as it was. I've done 120K and am wondering about the EGR valves. Can I ask you what state you are in because I've got quite a lot or work needs doing. The timing and high pressure belts, water pump, EGR Valves etc. Are you a trading mechanic?
I’m in NZ. No, not a mechanic. That isn’t much help to you, is it. There are some great mechanics out there. But tricky finding one. There’s a territory owners club on Facebook with more than 10k members. Ask there - someone will know a good mechanic near you.
Hey mate, thanks for the video. I have the same model territory. Giving me the same codes as you. Ive changed fuel filter and pump in the tank, just wondering after you changed egr valves have you had any more issues with yours? Thanks again
after clearing codes, it does take a few start stop cycles to flag an egr problem and go into limp mode. I don't know if it takes a few cycles to register a working egr is connected. So my need to clear codes either way??
Just if you are replacing the filter check that the in tank fuel pump is working mine wasn’t and when it changed the filter i found out apparently the system works without low pressure pump until you replace the filter or introduce air in the system
Really good in depth explanation. I just took the two top pipes off (egr to inlet man) I have found that the egr valves are blocked off with a home made tin plate and silastic where the gasket goes on to of the egr, I can see that the passenger side is in the closed position and the drivers side is clearly stuck open. I am getting the warning lights that you showed at the start of the video, do you think that the stuck open egr valve is sending the message to the ecu that is causing the limp mode/warning lights? Or would the valve being stuck open but blanked off not have that effect?
@user-nf2wt9uj6o Crikey! Who would've guessed you'd find that. The vehicle only has sensors for the egr electric motor itself. So the stuck valve would throw the code. Some people blank off the egr, but that requires reprogramming the car to ignore the bad data coming from the egr. Probably voids insurance and not road legal.
@@thomaswilding8818 Yes its pretty rough the way its been done, I, like the guy who put the video up, bought this car in limp mode will the lights up and have been going through it trying to sort it out. Since my last comment I have tested the “non stuck” egr and found that it does not work, but it is drawing current ( sparks when connected to 12v). So I would think that the ecu wouldn’t be liking that either? I have new EGR valves ordered so hopefully it will be sorted out. Thanks again the the original author, the video has really helped!
Two circuits - one opens and closes the valve, the other senses how far open it is. If you stopped it opening, the other circuit would throw an error because the sensor position isn't where it wants it to be. Also puts it in limp mode. Some people get the ecu reprogrammed - search "EGR delete".
Hey Thomas. Got a 2015 diesel territory. Gets a park Aid fault on warm sunny days only and wont start. Ford have had two goes at it so far with no luck. Any clues?
Hi Thomas, the other day I cleaned the map sensor, maf sensor, and when I turned the the ignition on I got a bunch of faults as in your video at the start. I’ve taken it to a mechanic and a bunch of codes like pcm are the ere. Could you advise what your thoughts could be? Cheers
Replaced hi pressure fuel pump was ok for afew months then lights came on again has to be warm before it does it and if i turn key off then back on it goes away for a little while anyway. Have taken it to a mechanic who has tried replacing afew parts to no avail fuel pressure sencer i dont like paying for parts if they dont fix it as money is hard to make and easy to spend 😢
Mine is pretty similar to this. I’ve replaced the FRP sensor, HPFP, brand new genuine Ford fuel filter, etc keeps throwing up P2290 fuel injector pressure too low code. It’s running beautifully otherwise but when warmed up the Terry comes up DSC - check engine under load. Usually as you push through the 2000 rpm’s an above.
My genuine original lasted 45K km, before failing. Replaced it with a cheaper Chinese which lasted about 80k km. These EGRs are badly designed. And prone to fail. In my case the shift inside had rust which caused it to seize.
Nice video ı have jag s-type and xj with 2.7d your car have better engine organisation our fuel filter is in same place but no bracket 😂 my s-type 180k km and ı never see limp mode in all the years also factory egr valves still using,its interesting ford made use this engines almost 10 year 2004 jaguars 2015 fords,this engines are good ıf you good care them but little bit complex and hard to work
@@thomaswilding8818 thank you ! Yes s versions of real growler and parts are almost same with s-type and xj,2.7d is really good engine for long trips but nightmare for heavy city driving
Ok, so I uave already replaced the in tank lift pump 2 years ago and know exactly when and how that fault presents itself. In the process I replaced the fuel filter and then couldn't prike the system (it somehow eventually self primed on its own after sitting for 2 days) and then realised the pump was shot. Is there a specific code or symptoms for water in the fuel filter, or a sticky EGR valve? When I get the DSC fault, the car will idle properly, but Of O try to drive it, the engine cuts in and out like fuel pump is turning on and off. If I turn the car off, It will drive normally if I dont give it loads if throttle. Here's a video of the Issue th-cam.com/video/vYHwkStO9NU/w-d-xo.htmlsi=Tf-vvQx3XA-OtFXS
My 2015 ford territory has been having this issue for a while.
Finally gave in and took it to ford dealer and they are going to replace EGRs.
Your video is great and i wish i came across it sooner.
Thanks very much for your video. Like Martin Bramston in his comment, I have a Territory diesel now with 80000 km, and I love it, and I am also a bit worried about long term reliability. A few weeks ago, a DSC fault came up, and it reappeared two or three times, but it has not reoccurred. Your video gives me confidence not to worry too much. Thanks again.
This a great video, we have been chasing our intermittent problem for over a year. The dealer we brought the car off spent over 2.5k trying to fix it. In the end it was the fuel system.
Crazy. Ford could have saved people a lot of money in unnecessary repairs if they had put more thought into their error codes. Like a separate error code for DSC fault if triggered by an engine problem.
thanks for the detailed video ,great info. I ,too have a 2014 Territory from new and it has been a great car for the last 160K klms. But I am worried about the future reliability of this car as it appears when things go wrong ,they become a real test of patience and tenacity and you have shown both those traits. Well done! Timing belt replacement is coming soon and I am beginning to panic as I will do this myself after seeing very instructive videos on TH-cam. many thanks for the inspiration. Martin
There's a few little things - brackets with nuts facing the wrong way etc. Make me want to throw my toys. Unfortunately true of almost every car on the road today. The old Holden 3.8 - hailed as the mechanics friend. Draining the coolant from the block on one of those is a PITA - pain in the arm.
I can not begin to express my gratitude. Thank you for this video.
Thanks for the post,great feedback to understand these faults.
Thank so much for your well organized video, very clear, great feedback to understand these faults.
I changed my fuel filter today and the car wouldn't restart, I couldn't hear the fuel pump running in the tank, after some panicking about what to do I thought I'd try bashing the fuel tank which to my surprise worked, kicking the fuel pump into action and priming the system 😁
Hah. Genius!
I cleaned mine with some Subuaru Upper engine cleaner. So far so good. no faults.
Hi David great video thanks for taking the time and effort to post this great work.
I recently purchased a 102,000 klm 2014 example with a check engine warning and after doing a code check my LH rear light was faulty and 3 fuses were blown.
I also gave it a full service and had 2 new A/T tyres fitted to the rear and a few bushings all replaced by myself and wow it passed the RWC.
A nice buy for $3,000 and have already been offered $10,000 which I'm seriously thinking of accepting.
@specialized29er86 What a great deal!
Awesome video thank you Mrs car has done this will check these out Thank you
Hi David, thanks for this excellent video. I have the same model Territory and although mine is running quite good it's not as economical as it was. I've done 120K and am wondering about the EGR valves. Can I ask you what state you are in because I've got quite a lot or work needs doing. The timing and high pressure belts, water pump, EGR Valves etc. Are you a trading mechanic?
I’m in NZ. No, not a mechanic. That isn’t much help to you, is it. There are some great mechanics out there. But tricky finding one. There’s a territory owners club on Facebook with more than 10k members. Ask there - someone will know a good mechanic near you.
Hey mate, thanks for the video. I have the same model territory. Giving me the same codes as you. Ive changed fuel filter and pump in the tank, just wondering after you changed egr valves have you had any more issues with yours? Thanks again
Engine runs great. No problems. Other problems like diff bushes, door locks. That sort of thing
so to get home without the limp mode, one could plug a good or new egr into the plug and the car will operate and not actually operate the faulty egr.
after clearing codes, it does take a few start stop cycles to flag an egr problem and go into limp mode. I don't know if it takes a few cycles to register a working egr is connected. So my need to clear codes either way??
Just if you are replacing the filter check that the in tank fuel pump is working mine wasn’t and when it changed the filter i found out apparently the system works without low pressure pump until you replace the filter or introduce air in the system
I'm sorry, Hi Thomas!!!
Really good in depth explanation.
I just took the two top pipes off (egr to inlet man) I have found that the egr valves are blocked off with a home made tin plate and silastic where the gasket goes on to of the egr, I can see that the passenger side is in the closed position and the drivers side is clearly stuck open.
I am getting the warning lights that you showed at the start of the video, do you think that the stuck open egr valve is sending the message to the ecu that is causing the limp mode/warning lights? Or would the valve being stuck open but blanked off not have that effect?
@user-nf2wt9uj6o Crikey! Who would've guessed you'd find that. The vehicle only has sensors for the egr electric motor itself. So the stuck valve would throw the code. Some people blank off the egr, but that requires reprogramming the car to ignore the bad data coming from the egr. Probably voids insurance and not road legal.
@@thomaswilding8818 Yes its pretty rough the way its been done, I, like the guy who put the video up, bought this car in limp mode will the lights up and have been going through it trying to sort it out.
Since my last comment I have tested the “non stuck” egr and found that it does not work, but it is drawing current ( sparks when connected to 12v). So I would think that the ecu wouldn’t be liking that either?
I have new EGR valves ordered so hopefully it will be sorted out.
Thanks again the the original author, the video has really helped!
Great video mate.
Hey can you simply ensure the EGR remains closed no disconnect it or jam the mechanism closed?
Two circuits - one opens and closes the valve, the other senses how far open it is. If you stopped it opening, the other circuit would throw an error because the sensor position isn't where it wants it to be. Also puts it in limp mode. Some people get the ecu reprogrammed - search "EGR delete".
Thanks Thomas. Which one of these repairs actually fixed the issue for you?
Fuel filter. The video is in the order you should check. Not in the order I did it.
Hey Thomas. Got a 2015 diesel territory.
Gets a park Aid fault on warm sunny days only and wont start. Ford have had two goes at it so far with no luck. Any clues?
@user-pt4ui8yn9s No clue. Hope someone else can chime in. People do sometimes get strange faults if mud and crap gets into the trailer light socket.
Hi Thomas, the other day I cleaned the map sensor, maf sensor, and when I turned the the ignition on I got a bunch of faults as in your video at the start.
I’ve taken it to a mechanic and a bunch of codes like pcm are the ere. Could you advise what your thoughts could be?
Cheers
Is it possible your battery volts ran low at the same time as the clean,. These can throw a lot of random codes if battery voltage drops too low
Replaced hi pressure fuel pump was ok for afew months then lights came on again has to be warm before it does it and if i turn key off then back on it goes away for a little while anyway. Have taken it to a mechanic who has tried replacing afew parts to no avail fuel pressure sencer i dont like paying for parts if they dont fix it as money is hard to make and easy to spend 😢
I do wonder, has a hi-pressure fuel pump ever fixed this problem? That's a bloody expensive part.
Mine is pretty similar to this. I’ve replaced the FRP sensor, HPFP, brand new genuine Ford fuel filter, etc keeps throwing up P2290 fuel injector pressure too low code. It’s running beautifully otherwise but when warmed up the Terry comes up DSC - check engine under load. Usually as you push through the 2000 rpm’s an above.
I have the same issues. Traction. Limp & engine light.
Or tho im getting knly one code. Turbo position sensor.
Any idea ?
Service is due
Not familiar with that code or consequences. A basic obd scanner will only read what's on the obd module. Possible other codes on other modules.
My genuine original lasted 45K km, before failing. Replaced it with a cheaper Chinese which lasted about 80k km. These EGRs are badly designed. And prone to fail. In my case the shift inside had rust which caused it to seize.
Nice video ı have jag s-type and xj with 2.7d your car have better engine organisation our fuel filter is in same place but no bracket 😂 my s-type 180k km and ı never see limp mode in all the years also factory egr valves still using,its interesting ford made use this engines almost 10 year 2004 jaguars 2015 fords,this engines are good ıf you good care them but little bit complex and hard to work
@@serhadcoban8699 Nice! I had a jag XF S a few years ago. Similar motor & chasis. Bloody fantastic car to drive long distance.
@@thomaswilding8818 thank you ! Yes s versions of real growler and parts are almost same with s-type and xj,2.7d is really good engine for long trips but nightmare for heavy city driving
Ok, so I uave already replaced the in tank lift pump 2 years ago and know exactly when and how that fault presents itself.
In the process I replaced the fuel filter and then couldn't prike the system (it somehow eventually self primed on its own after sitting for 2 days) and then realised the pump was shot.
Is there a specific code or symptoms for water in the fuel filter, or a sticky EGR valve?
When I get the DSC fault, the car will idle properly, but Of O try to drive it, the engine cuts in and out like fuel pump is turning on and off.
If I turn the car off, It will drive normally if I dont give it loads if throttle. Here's a video of the Issue
th-cam.com/video/vYHwkStO9NU/w-d-xo.htmlsi=Tf-vvQx3XA-OtFXS
When did it start running like that? Was it after a repair or change?
and citroen