You don’t need to take off the car carousel at all. You can access all 4 screws through an empty filter “hole”, you can see them nicely in your video. I mounted my 2600MM on to the 7x2” (with ZWO’s new light washers). Amusingly, like you, I sat for a good 30 minutes trying to work out which of my various adapters and tubes I was going to use to attach everything, if your video was just a week earlier you’ve have saved me some serious pondering. Great videos, keep it up.
I have a manual 5 position Filter wheel. Since I have to spin the wheel with my thumb, there is a large gap where the wheel can be turned. I have issues with light leak also, so I use a small micro fiber towel to drape over the filter wheel and I use a velcro strap to hold it in place.
Instead of removing the carrousel the way you did, You are suppose to remove the 3 tiny screws to remove it. Please leave the baring housing intact. I learned the hard way a couple years ago.
@@easyastroimages5818 One more small piece of advice if you don't mine. Go into the filter wheel ASCOM driver and make sure it's set to Omni direction. Bi Direction can cause what I call moon craters that are very very very difficult to remove even with good calibration frames. I believe James Lamb has a video on this.
It’s always great to see a walk-through before purchasing a piece of equipment- thank you! I was curious, do you still use your AVX mount? And one more question, the 2” filter wheel is rather large…I’ve been on the fence wondering if it would look like a Frisbee sticking out on the back of my FRA600…how does you setup look. And please keep up the great videos!
@@josephluciani5531 I have an am5 now. Still have the avx. Might use the tripod. Avx performed well. Just a bit heavy for traveling and a little quirky with the commands from Nina. Am5 is perfect so far
I'm putting together an almost identical imaging train right now. You need to take the tilt plate off the camera and the wheel will attach directly to the camera under there (there is another set of screw holes under the tilt plate) and you gain another 5mm or so of backfocus. To remove the tilt plate just take off the 3 screws with the Allen wrench they supply with the camera.
@@easyastroimages5818 Actually you didn't - at 5:37-ish you are attaching the EFW to the black plate on the camera. This is the tilt plate and it's never removed that I see in the video. Further; the tilt plate takes the inner set of screws on the EFW (which you used). When you remove the plate the EFW can only attach via the outer set of screw holes to the camera. That black metal plate on your camera is the title plate and it's 100% removable (yes they even talk about removing it in their manuals) and I assure you based on your video you are attaching the EFW to the tilt plate and not directly to the camera. And yes, I have an ASI2600 and 2" EFW so I know this all first hand.
@@zara8289 It was left on as per the back focus directions I showed in the video. Now yesterday I installed the large oag and did have to remove the tilt plate from the camera and then place it on the scope side of the large oag.
@@easyastroimages5818 Right... so you didn't take it off in the video as I said to which you told me I was wrong and then admit you didn't really do it after all while implying my suggestion was wrong regardless since it would have gone against the directions in your video? Feels like you're taking this all a bit personally. Look, I was just trying to offer a friendly suggestion - I don't really care if you take it off or not and I don't really care if you think my advice is stupid, won't work or goes against your directions in the video. My only point was if you take it off you can get another 5mm of backfocus back; there is zero actual reason or functional need to keep it unless you have a Newtonian or your sensor tilt is insane. Otherwise it's eating up 5mm of your backfocus space and that space should be between the imaging train and the scope ideally and not in between the filter and camera. The closer the filter to the camera the better; there's whole lines of cameras with built in filter wheels based around this idea from all the major manufacturers. And don't tell me I'm blind and can't see what's in front of my own face only to turn around and suggest I was wrong for a second time; like what is even that about? Especially since I was just offering a suggestion. Not a great way to build a community. So ya keep it, take it off; I could really care less what you do with it; was just trying to offer a suggestion since you tend to need every mm you can get when building bigger imaging trains and since having extra space between your filters and camera is neither ideal nor desired. But you know whatever, silly me.
@@zara8289 sorry it all got mixed up man. I appreciate you looking out and taking the time to write all the comments. I don’t take TH-cam personally. I’ve done rc on here for years and have a way bigger channel and catch a lot more crap. :) I apologize for any slight you feel. Thanks for looking out. Too many dang zwo pieces and parts :) hope yo see you back sometime if not I understand
ZWO Filter Wheel Slipping during imaging session. This issue is that the filter has started to slip when imaging. The filter is not lined up with the camera sensor and shows a line in image. When I manually rotate filter it centers back up and image is ok, but after about 5 300 sec images it starts to slip and filter moves and there’s a dark edge of on image showing the side of filter wheel filter frame. Any idea on how to fix let me know tks I lost about 2 hr of image's because of this :-(
You don’t need to take off the car carousel at all. You can access all 4 screws through an empty filter “hole”, you can see them nicely in your video.
I mounted my 2600MM on to the 7x2” (with ZWO’s new light washers).
Amusingly, like you, I sat for a good 30 minutes trying to work out which of my various adapters and tubes I was going to use to attach everything, if your video was just a week earlier you’ve have saved me some serious pondering.
Great videos, keep it up.
thanks john. yes someone else pointed that out about the screws :) i did that the second time around installing the OAG L
I have a manual 5 position Filter wheel. Since I have to spin the wheel with my thumb, there is a large gap where the wheel can be turned. I have issues with light leak also, so I use a small micro fiber towel to drape over the filter wheel and I use a velcro strap to hold it in place.
Same for me I don't know why ZWO sells crap to customers
Yeah they def over looked the leak issue. All the new efw come with the gaskets if you look at their product pages
Gonna roll with the electric tape for now:) seems to be all good but as I said no street lights to deal with so I’m lucky.
Instead of removing the carrousel the way you did, You are suppose to remove the 3 tiny screws to remove it. Please leave the baring housing intact. I learned the hard way a couple years ago.
Ah. Well that’s nice. Glad I have it tested and working now. :)
@@easyastroimages5818 One more small piece of advice if you don't mine. Go into the filter wheel ASCOM driver and make sure it's set to Omni direction. Bi Direction can cause what I call moon craters that are very very very difficult to remove even with good calibration frames. I believe James Lamb has a video on this.
It’s always great to see a walk-through before purchasing a piece of equipment- thank you! I was curious, do you still use your AVX mount? And one more question, the 2” filter wheel is rather large…I’ve been on the fence wondering if it would look like a Frisbee sticking out on the back of my FRA600…how does you setup look. And please keep up the great videos!
@@josephluciani5531 I have an am5 now. Still have the avx. Might use the tripod. Avx performed well. Just a bit heavy for traveling and a little quirky with the commands from Nina. Am5 is perfect so far
@@TheMje1963 hey thanks. I have it setup to move just one way for the best flat corrections. Like James’s explained. He’s a smart guy!
I'm putting together an almost identical imaging train right now. You need to take the tilt plate off the camera and the wheel will attach directly to the camera under there (there is another set of screw holes under the tilt plate) and you gain another 5mm or so of backfocus. To remove the tilt plate just take off the 3 screws with the Allen wrench they supply with the camera.
ummm i did this in the video :)
@@easyastroimages5818 Actually you didn't - at 5:37-ish you are attaching the EFW to the black plate on the camera. This is the tilt plate and it's never removed that I see in the video. Further; the tilt plate takes the inner set of screws on the EFW (which you used). When you remove the plate the EFW can only attach via the outer set of screw holes to the camera. That black metal plate on your camera is the title plate and it's 100% removable (yes they even talk about removing it in their manuals) and I assure you based on your video you are attaching the EFW to the tilt plate and not directly to the camera. And yes, I have an ASI2600 and 2" EFW so I know this all first hand.
@@zara8289 It was left on as per the back focus directions I showed in the video. Now yesterday I installed the large oag and did have to remove the tilt plate from the camera and then place it on the scope side of the large oag.
@@easyastroimages5818 Right... so you didn't take it off in the video as I said to which you told me I was wrong and then admit you didn't really do it after all while implying my suggestion was wrong regardless since it would have gone against the directions in your video? Feels like you're taking this all a bit personally.
Look, I was just trying to offer a friendly suggestion - I don't really care if you take it off or not and I don't really care if you think my advice is stupid, won't work or goes against your directions in the video.
My only point was if you take it off you can get another 5mm of backfocus back; there is zero actual reason or functional need to keep it unless you have a Newtonian or your sensor tilt is insane. Otherwise it's eating up 5mm of your backfocus space and that space should be between the imaging train and the scope ideally and not in between the filter and camera. The closer the filter to the camera the better; there's whole lines of cameras with built in filter wheels based around this idea from all the major manufacturers.
And don't tell me I'm blind and can't see what's in front of my own face only to turn around and suggest I was wrong for a second time; like what is even that about? Especially since I was just offering a suggestion. Not a great way to build a community.
So ya keep it, take it off; I could really care less what you do with it; was just trying to offer a suggestion since you tend to need every mm you can get when building bigger imaging trains and since having extra space between your filters and camera is neither ideal nor desired.
But you know whatever, silly me.
@@zara8289 sorry it all got mixed up man. I appreciate you looking out and taking the time to write all the comments. I don’t take TH-cam personally. I’ve done rc on here for years and have a way bigger channel and catch a lot more crap. :) I apologize for any slight you feel. Thanks for looking out. Too many dang zwo pieces and parts :) hope yo see you back sometime if not I understand
Sure looks like you didn't put the bearing back on the center shaft before putting the screw back on
Been awhile and I know I had it off a few times. Everything worked fine
Great video. Was that an ASI2600 MC Pro Color or Mono camera?
Color version. I use a wheel to swap between lp and 2 duoband filters.
Great idea. I have the Lp. What filters do you use for the OSC camera?
@@figzastro-photography idas dp2 idas nbz and Antlia alt 3nm. The last 2 are dou narrowband. First is just a mild light pollution one.
@@easyastroimages5818what does this mean? Don’t understand all the abbreviations.
ZWO Filter Wheel Slipping during imaging session. This issue is that the filter has started to slip when imaging. The filter is not lined up with the camera sensor and shows a line in image. When I manually rotate filter it centers back up and image is ok, but after about 5 300 sec images it starts to slip and filter moves and there’s a dark edge of on image showing the side of filter wheel filter frame. Any idea on how to fix let me know tks I lost about 2 hr of image's because of this :-(
ugh that stinks :(
Get a Moonlite Nightcrawler instead of the falcon. It's the "bees knees" of focusser/rotators.
Oh that would be nice :)
You need to remove the camera tilt plate first before attaching the EFW
yeah i had to redo that all a few times for my setup..thanks