Like everyone else...manual release nor key fob worked to release trunk, ...time to replace the actuator. I ordered it (expensive from amazon in CA so I could get it in a few days, and started looking for an install video; found yours. You hit my real problem on the head! After a week of everything going sideways, it brought a smile to my face to send back the unneeded part. Thanks Jason!
This video saved me a ton of money. Thank you. But my trunk problem was a little different. It opened about 2 times out of 10 tries with the key fob. I was getting constant TRUNK AJAR alerts every time I put the transmission in drive/reverse or stepped on the brakes. My auto door locks were also activating constantly.....about 3-4 times a second. I had to pull over on a long drive home and open/close the trunk to get the short circuit to stop. I was also seeing the dome light in the trunk dim and brighten when the trunk lid moved up and down. I heard a slight buzzing from the trunk latch whenever I opened it while the ignition was on. I unwound the trunk wire harness and saw the broken black and white wire. The wrap was keeping it together enough to cause a short circuit and not a complete trunk failure. I used a butt splice connector after stripping the wiring insulation and it solved all of the issues 100%. Two other wires had some stripped insulation so I put electrical tape over them. The stripping seems to have occurred due to the too-tight zip tie from the Ford factory. I installed a new tie with a bigger loop to take tension off of the wiring harness. If a wire short circuit or wire break happens to anyone on a long drive and the auto door locks keeping firing over and over again, there are online procedures and TH-cam videos that show how you can turn the feature off until you can repair the wire.
Thank you so much for posting this video!! You definitely saved me some money. I had the same problem with my trunk as well and the dealership wanted to charge me $135 just to LOOK at it! I told them I would pass on that. Saw your video and checked deep inside the trunk on the passenger side and saw a white wire hanging out. Went and bought some wire & wire stripper tool for $20 and fixed it! I added wire to mine so I would have a little more slack/flexibility in the wire when the trunk closes. That's another option for anyone out there who may run into this problem in the future.
This also fixed my trunk lid BRAKE LIGHT! First of all, the severed wire was exactly where you showed the viewer (me) and after I applied the butt connector, the dash button and the trunk lid squeeze button (above the license plate) worked again. Plus, the trunk lid brake light mysteriously began lighting up again (same harness) ! Jason, THANK YOU SO MUCH, you have easily saved me a few hundred dollars! You could easily add "trunk lid brake light" into the title as I thought the bulb/fuse were faulty and NEVER thought about tracing the harness :)
Wow thank you so much. I was so frustrated by my trunk not opening and this short simple video saved me so much money. The break in the wire was in nearly the exact same spot that you had a break. Once again thank you so much. TH-cam to the rescue once again 🙂
Omg I just want to thank you from the bottom of my heart I had this issue the Ford delearship in California was gonna charge me 145 for the hatch part alone I got the trunk open and noticed the 2 wires disconnect fixed it and now it works perfectly
Thanks guy - My 2012 Focus has that problem. there are 4 wires to the connector on the trunk release. I pulled the plug and have voltage on 3 out of 4. One pulses with the key control. Looks like the 4th is the ground or return. It ohms 18 Meg ohm to ground (open). Looks like bad wire and now thanks to you I know better where to look. I wish I could find a decent wiring diagram of this thing. The Focus car sites say to buy an entire harness rather than just fix the wires like you did. (You are smarter.) That trunk alarm drives me crazy.
That wire controls the trunk release, trunk light, and reverse lights. I've had to do quick temporary fixes at least 3 times now before learning how to solder wires together to hopefully give it a permanent fix however im relieved to find out im not the only one who has had this problem with the wire.
Thanks for posting the video was exactly my problem and was exactly what the dealership recommended to me was to buy a new actuator so here’s to you saving me a couple hundred bucks.
Efectivamente éste es el problema, cable negro roto por eso no se activa el automático del maletero, muchas gracias yo tengo un focus 2014 y ese fue la solución, solo un poco de soldadura teflón y listo, me ahorre como 2500 por la pieza.
@@jlmorris96 I've looked since. Got those self soldering shrink tubes. Will be fixing it soon. I'm not crawling into a trunk when the temp gauge reads 105 (it's really in the high 80s). Sitting cars get hot.
Bob there’s a button on top of corner of each seat you push it in and pull it down, there will be a green safety handle to release the trunk on the inside of the trunk, Once you do open your trunk I suggest you check in the same area of the gentleman in the video shows you it was exactly my issue and took me about five minutes to fix it save me a couple hundred dollars for sure
EXACTLY what was wrong with my car. BOTH wires were broken! Thank you soooo much!
Like everyone else...manual release nor key fob worked to release trunk, ...time to replace the actuator. I ordered it (expensive from amazon in CA so I could get it in a few days, and started looking for an install video; found yours. You hit my real problem on the head! After a week of everything going sideways, it brought a smile to my face to send back the unneeded part. Thanks Jason!
This video is still helping people. My wires were chaffed through as well.
This video saved me a ton of money. Thank you. But my trunk problem was a little different. It opened about 2 times out of 10 tries with the key fob. I was getting constant TRUNK AJAR alerts every time I put the transmission in drive/reverse or stepped on the brakes. My auto door locks were also activating constantly.....about 3-4 times a second. I had to pull over on a long drive home and open/close the trunk to get the short circuit to stop. I was also seeing the dome light in the trunk dim and brighten when the trunk lid moved up and down. I heard a slight buzzing from the trunk latch whenever I opened it while the ignition was on. I unwound the trunk wire harness and saw the broken black and white wire. The wrap was keeping it together enough to cause a short circuit and not a complete trunk failure. I used a butt splice connector after stripping the wiring insulation and it solved all of the issues 100%. Two other wires had some stripped insulation so I put electrical tape over them. The stripping seems to have occurred due to the too-tight zip tie from the Ford factory. I installed a new tie with a bigger loop to take tension off of the wiring harness. If a wire short circuit or wire break happens to anyone on a long drive and the auto door locks keeping firing over and over again, there are online procedures and TH-cam videos that show how you can turn the feature off until you can repair the wire.
Thank you so much for posting this video!! You definitely saved me some money. I had the same problem with my trunk as well and the dealership wanted to charge me $135 just to LOOK at it! I told them I would pass on that. Saw your video and checked deep inside the trunk on the passenger side and saw a white wire hanging out. Went and bought some wire & wire stripper tool for $20 and fixed it! I added wire to mine so I would have a little more slack/flexibility in the wire when the trunk closes. That's another option for anyone out there who may run into this problem in the future.
This also fixed my trunk lid BRAKE LIGHT! First of all, the severed wire was exactly where you showed the viewer (me) and after I applied the butt connector, the dash button and the trunk lid squeeze button (above the license plate) worked again. Plus, the trunk lid brake light mysteriously began lighting up again (same harness) ! Jason, THANK YOU SO MUCH, you have easily saved me a few hundred dollars! You could easily add "trunk lid brake light" into the title as I thought the bulb/fuse were faulty and NEVER thought about tracing the harness :)
I am from dominican rep. And for me, You deserve 1,000 box AND a monument for You big heart teaching US this. I solved because You. Thanks
Yes!! Thank you!!!! Pretty sure this is the problem with my ‘12! Just stopped working one day. Already checked the fuse… THANK YOU for posting this!!
Wow thank you so much. I was so frustrated by my trunk not opening and this short simple video saved me so much money. The break in the wire was in nearly the exact same spot that you had a break. Once again thank you so much. TH-cam to the rescue once again 🙂
Omg I just want to thank you from the bottom of my heart I had this issue the Ford delearship in California was gonna charge me 145 for the hatch part alone I got the trunk open and noticed the 2 wires disconnect fixed it and now it works perfectly
U used tape for it?
Thanks for this! Got under and saw the wire had been severed. Hooked it back up and it works like normal.
Thanks guy - My 2012 Focus has that problem. there are 4 wires to the connector on the trunk release. I pulled the plug and have voltage on 3 out of 4. One pulses with the key control. Looks like the 4th is the ground or return. It ohms 18 Meg ohm to ground (open). Looks like bad wire and now thanks to you I know better where to look. I wish I could find a decent wiring diagram of this thing. The Focus car sites say to buy an entire harness rather than just fix the wires like you did. (You are smarter.) That trunk alarm drives me crazy.
My Friend, you are a Genius! Thank you for posting this video. This was the exact problem I had an fixed it in 10 minutes.
Thanks for posting the video. Fixed the problem for free. I used electrical tape to tap it back together and it works.
That wire controls the trunk release, trunk light, and reverse lights. I've had to do quick temporary fixes at least 3 times now before learning how to solder wires together to hopefully give it a permanent fix however im relieved to find out im not the only one who has had this problem with the wire.
Thanks for posting the video was exactly my problem and was exactly what the dealership recommended to me was to buy a new actuator so here’s to you saving me a couple hundred bucks.
2013 Focus...same thing!! Thanks so much for posting!!
thank you so much for your video😍😍 we were looking for the fuse until i saw your video and exacly 10 mns the problem got fix thank you!!!
Fixed my 2014 Focus. Thanks for the post!
Efectivamente éste es el problema, cable negro roto por eso no se activa el automático del maletero, muchas gracias yo tengo un focus 2014 y ese fue la solución, solo un poco de soldadura teflón y listo, me ahorre como 2500 por la pieza.
Just looked on mine and found not one, not two, but THREE broken wires under there
My break a little higher up but it totally fixed it! Thanks dude!
Is the same issue and the same fix... For now on I will review TH-cam first before doing something... Thank you so much.
Is the black and white wire.
Just used your video! Thank you so much 🤗🤗🤗
Thanks for the tip! Great video! Will try this fix on the weekend!
Broo....... your idea worked.. thank you so much
Do you have a video on how to crimp the wires together? Thank you 🙏
Thank you sir. 1 million likes comin your way
Thank you! You saved me a ton of money
Thank you! Had the same problem here and this worked for me!!!
Thank you so much I fixt it. It was exactly my car have this problem!!
Thank you
Worked thanks a lot !!!
Yep. That was the problem. Going to try butt connectors. What gauge wire?
I just used blue butt connectors, which are about 14 gauge. One wire is smaller than the other 3, but it worked just as well.
Thanks a ton :) you're awesome!!!!
Thank you!
Thank you so much!! It fixed mine
Thanks man!
Thanks!!
I hear my actuator clicking so it's probably the actuator right?
I would check your wires first, then the fuse. The actuator is rather expensive.
@@jlmorris96 I've looked since. Got those self soldering shrink tubes. Will be fixing it soon. I'm not crawling into a trunk when the temp gauge reads 105 (it's really in the high 80s). Sitting cars get hot.
Just fixed work as a charme
thatd be a pretty easy fix if i could open my trunk
You have to pull your back seat down and pull the safety release latch.
how do you pull the back seat down?
Bob there’s a button on top of corner of each seat you push it in and pull it down, there will be a green safety handle to release the trunk on the inside of the trunk, Once you do open your trunk I suggest you check in the same area of the gentleman in the video shows you it was exactly my issue and took me about five minutes to fix it save me a couple hundred dollars for sure
@@paulydubbz the release mechanism for the seats is inside the trunk
What year is your focus
Thank you