Hey, great video tons of help. I have a solution for any backyard mech's out there regarding the "special tool" for removing the Heater hoses. YOU DON'T NEED IT! I didn't have one and couldn't get one locally, so I improvised. Simple use a Dremmel and large cutting blade to cut the tubes (inside car side) off. Then all you have to do is pull the cut tubes through the hole in the firewall. Then using channel locks pop the quick disconnects off. I didn't even have to cut the foam material.
I have a 2000 f 150 with no heat . I watched your helpfully video and began to work on my tick up I followed your 3 steps (4 hrs of work) . Today I worked 7 hrs on . New heater core is in there. Everything is back and I already have heat inside my truck and ready to receive winter. Thank you very much for you very good videos explanation and you saved me 600 dlls that I was counting to pay somebody else , but after I watched your videos I was encouraged to do the work myself and proudly I say I did it . Thank you very much man.
David, thanks for your reply. I'm glad I was able to inspire your to do it yourself, get the job done, and save the money. Yes, it is a lot of work, but it sure feels good when you get it done. Duane
Perfect video, you saved me at least 800 if not more, Granted it took me 13 hours but I have never attempted to do this type of work on a vehicle. Thank You again for this,,,,,
I just finished replacing my heater core on my 02 f150. Because of these videos I was able to save over $700 by doing it myself. I would like to say thank you and keep up the great videos.
thank u so much for the video.. I had this replaced by a mechanic 4 years ago. not to my surprise some bolts were missing.. but anyway..two years ago (my fault) I had a leak not from core but from motor and I left water in it not to leak everywhere.. well the winter came and I forgot and the whole system froze and cracked block.. I replaced motor and found heater core blew up..winter is here again and until I saw your video I did not want to do this 7 hour job...but I have removed my core with no fuss or stress in less then an hour just to find my blend door was cracked.. heading to store and I should have it back together in less then 2 hours.. awesome video... ps I am by myself and I should have it all don't from start to finish in less then 3 hours total work and theres not that many screws and bolts maybe about 50 total....all easy to get to...thanks again.....
Duane, you're the man! I was going to make a video of this today and felt like I had to do it to help people. I wound up being helped by your video instead! Thank you so much!
Great info. The book said to drain down the ac system, but i see i only need to do that if i change the evap. I guess they want me to move the evap to get out the foam piece. thanks for the cutting tip for the foam piece, saved more time and money. Great series.
This was my first major mechanical job so I had no idea what I was doing but thanks to this video I was able to go threw it pretty easily and saved $900
Easy disconnect of heater lines no tool required. Leave them for last. If you look at part 3 of this video you can see the heater core in the box is far enough in the box that you can see the metal feed lines of the core. Just cut these and pull them through the firewall into the engine compartment. The disconnect is now real easy to undo. You also don't have to cut the foam to remove the core the cut lines slide right through it. The new core will slide right through the core openings in the foam. Wait till after you install the core to install the quick disconnect fittings, o-rings and spacers from the engine compartment side.
Agreed. Heater core will be replaced, you might as well cut the lines and slide them out of the hole at time of removal. Need the right tool for cutting though, there's limited space!
Thank You for your clear understanding of how to replace a F150 heater core your at the end have clear view path of completing it correctly. Thanks so much. The only part I did not get on it was under the hood.
Thank you for these helpful video's. 2001 F150 4.6L original heater core was copper construction, it failed at 98k miles. Paid Ford to replace it, they installed an aluminum replacement part from Ford, it fail just two week prior to the warranty expiration so Ford replaced it again, another Aluminum version. It also failed but this time it was beyond the warranty. I have no fricken idea why these units keep failing but I opted to purchase a custom Copper Heater Core from "TheBrassWorks", cost me close to $400 for the part. I followed your instruction and man. . . what a fricken big job but I got it done and everything works!! Note, I followed Duane's suggestion and change out the Blend Door, I used Dorman 902-220 which has a sold metal gear, an improvement over the plastic with metal wrap that Duane shows in the video. The Sold metal gear is slightly skinnier that the original plastic, so it fit right in, perfectly. Hopefully I'll get another 100K or more out of my truck, its at 135k miles now. Also, I used my phone and just took picture of the screws, bolts, etc, and used zip lock back and labeled where the hardware came off. . . it definitely helps with the reassembly, this is a complicated job, it took me better than 12 hours total, including fighting to get off the original heater hose that connects at the back end of the engine block. . . that was a Mother-Fucxxr to get off.
i'm so glad i watched this. i can't afford the 600 right now but at least now i know for today i can pack up my tools and tackle this another time. thank you so much for the information.
Did this on my Cavalier, a painful job!!! and the worst part is the dash is "cracky" plastic and sometimes it ends up breaking and cracking in some places!! great vid as usual Duane, waiting for the other parts!! thanx!
Thank you for posting these three videos! They were a great guide for me and my 1999 F150 4.6. After doing the procedure this weekend, I can really appreciate the intro scene you have in all three videos of you removing the dash assembly in one big piece. LOL! Lots of really nice tips in here!
For those who would like to fabricate the hose removal tool. The perfect material to make this out of is 1.5" X 1.5" angle iron 1/8" thick . The dimensions are for the 5/8 side; Total width - 1.66" . notch width - .80". notch depth - 1.0"... the 3/4 side is; Total width 1.66". notch width - 1.0". notch depth - 1.25"... Just fasten these on the opposite ends of 12 to 24 inch rod (1/4 to 1/2" thick)
I had one in my old Mustang, it was so hard I connected the in and return hoses together and left it without heat! I just now remembered I sold it that way one summer and never even thought to mention it!! Oh well, that was 20+ years ago, I bet they figured it out by now though I feel a bit bad about it now. Honest oversight, sorry.
Just did this job. My driverside dash was a little different. The unit that connects the lights was a little different. I had a hidden bolt that I couldnt get to. I had to cut out the plastic framing to get to the screw that held it in. Also this guy doesnt mention the sockets. Your main socket will be a 9/32. Youll also need a 10mm and 13mm. Other then that it wasnt too bad. I put it all back together and i have a dim area on my speedometer. So be careful when re attaching. Its November and now the wife and kids have heat. Thanks realfixesrealfast!
I have same 98 f150 and heat stopped working. I am getting little heat even after flushing system and changing thermostat. Heater hoses are both hot and there is no leakage so I suspect the blend door. Great video, I appreciate it and will do this soon because WINTER IS COMING!
I had the same problem in the same ford f 150 . I flushed my heater core and it works good for couple days , but them stopped heating again and later heater core broke. Hope you dont have same situation , good luck.
If you are still doing this, a couple of things.... be sure to remove the wire bundles from the passenger side wall or they will get snagged by the lower dash hinge. Also instead of buying a new door I sanded .05" off of the lower door hinge (evenly!) then slipped a 1/2" copper pipe FITTING piece over the stub..worked perfectly. Good Luck!
About the hose connectors not being quick: a "quick connect" isn't necessarily a quick disconnect. In fact, it's usually harder to disconnect these types of connectors (in an engine, at least) than if they'd used a slower-to-install method like clamps, bolts or screws.
Thanks for these videos. I changed my heater core by following this 3-part series. I am grateful! My only criticism, if any, was that you weren't as specific about taking the remainder of the dashboard out as you were in the rest of the videos. Even if you briefly showed or pointed out each screw, that extra 2-3 minutes would have helped. In any case, thank you!!!
I find the best way to use the hose removal tool is to engage it in the notches then push toward the fire wall and finally pull back. Mine were on there since 1998 and it to only 2 tries to remove them.
ive done many fords ,,,,expidetion,,f150 f250,,,navigator,,,,,,,,i remove colum ,,dash,,,etc,,,remove top cover of heater box,,,,,then cut h/c pipes with cable cutter or zizwheel hack saw etc,,,gives me room to remove hoses under hood and protect fittings so i can reinstall on h/c,,,if they dont brake apart,,,,also replace blend door with updated door,,,,i can do this complete 4hrs,,,,,,the f150 in about 3hr....
I just wanna thank you for posting this video...!!! You are a "GREAT" teacher and I thank you..! I've saved myself lots of cash annd now have heat again..!
One more extra tip...If you don't want to get or have access to the special tool for the quick disconnect, just cut the tubes off the old core from the inside (as long as your replacing it) and pull them through...very simple to do and you don't have to try and fish the tool into the slots of the connector...
on those quick-connect i leave it to last i use my big pair of cutters and cut the heater core tubes and pull the hose out more into the engine compartment then remove the connects from the tubes
Just did mine and did the same thing, way better way of doing. Wish your post would've been here before I did it. Thought of it in shower on a Sunday morning.
Cool videos (1, 2, and 3) for a pain in the ass job! My luck, I would forget to put something back together and have to backtrack the procedure to find it.
cathodic corrosion , combined with impure metal in an area that is stressed when the parts of the core or collectors are stamped out, most always on corners or joins
If you wait until you have the dash and the top of the heater box off you can take a cutting wheel and cut off the heater core tubes from the inside and not have to fight getting the "Quick Connects" loose.
This is a great point. Doing it this way saves a lot of issues. You then can take the hoses off the cut off metal tubes and not have to worry about saving them. I also did not put the O rings back on until I had put the core in place. This way you put them on from the engine side and you won't lose them.
Frenchmens Creek I meant to say you can pull the heater hoses toward the front of the truck and use your hands to undo the quick connect and take the O rings off.
Sounds like a PITA. Tgose quick connects take two hands and a little elbow grease. Cant see jerry-rigging. Just to worry if the hoses will slip later on.. To each their own i guess..
I've watched a lot if videos where they don't disconnect those 3 connection on the drivers side fire wall? Why do you disconnect them? Thanks for the video, very detailed.
saw your quick fix on a ford Taurus. Thinking it will work for a 2002 Ranger also. Will it? Do you have an evaporator and heater core replacement video for a 2002 Ranger? Thanks
On the heater core water lines there is no need to fool around with undoing those clips or needing that tool. Just wait till you get the dash off and you are at the heater core and and cut the metal tubes from the inside then all you have to do is get under the hood and pull the heater hose and the cut off line out and undo clips out in the open. The heater core is no good anyway so it doesn't matter.
Where did you get your quick disconnect tool and who makes it? I went to NAPA looking for one & ended up buying a set of plastic snap on rings, hope they work.
Unless your have to give the old part back to the customer, cut them it'll save you time and you won't have to cut the foam pad which stays with the vehicle forever.
My Heater Core went out. Gotta love that "maple syrup" smell when it arrives. UGH! I have 314,000 miles on my 2000 F-150. The AC works fine. Is it a good idea to replace the evaporator core too? I will be doing the job myself.
Do you have a video how to change out the heater core on a 1998 Jeep Cherokee Sport? Are there any short cuts you can give me on this? I was told the whole dash has to come out.
The dimensions are for the 5/8 side; Total width - 1.66" . notch width - .80". notch depth - 1.0"... the 3/4 side is; Total width 1.66". notch width - 1.0". notch depth - 1.25"...
Easier to cut the heater core and replace the hoses after or disconnect the pieces from the hoses if they are still good cheaper than buying a tool you'll use once in a great while...
Why does everyone talk about cutting pipes etc? Used 90-degree offset players to disconnect quick connectors. Then broke plastic tabs that remained at pipe with hand. Then simply pulled core out. I think it is better to hold front of plastic tabs than in notches. If you hold plastic in notches players or that tool is on way of coupler to get out.
I've watched other videos of replacing the heater core on a 97 to 2003 F150 and none of them ever showed anything about removing computer bulkhead wiring from the engine side of the firewall, so is this necessary? I thought wire connectors were taking apart underneath the dash.
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Hey, great video tons of help. I have a solution for any backyard mech's out there regarding the "special tool" for removing the Heater hoses. YOU DON'T NEED IT! I didn't have one and couldn't get one locally, so I improvised. Simple use a Dremmel and large cutting blade to cut the tubes (inside car side) off. Then all you have to do is pull the cut tubes through the hole in the firewall. Then using channel locks pop the quick disconnects off. I didn't even have to cut the foam material.
I have a 2000 f 150 with no heat . I watched your helpfully video and began to work on my tick up I followed your 3 steps (4 hrs of work) . Today I worked 7 hrs on . New heater core is in there. Everything is back and I already have heat inside my truck and ready to receive winter. Thank you very much for you very good videos explanation and you saved me 600 dlls that I was counting to pay somebody else , but after I watched your videos I was encouraged to do the work myself and proudly I say I did it . Thank you very much man.
David, thanks for your reply. I'm glad I was able to inspire your to do it yourself, get the job done, and save the money. Yes, it is a lot of work, but it sure feels good when you get it done. Duane
Perfect video, you saved me at least 800 if not more, Granted it took me 13 hours but I have never attempted to do this type of work on a vehicle. Thank You again for this,,,,,
I just finished replacing my heater core on my 02 f150. Because of these videos I was able to save over $700 by doing it myself. I would like to say thank you and keep up the great videos.
thank u so much for the video.. I had this replaced by a mechanic 4 years ago. not to my surprise some bolts were missing.. but anyway..two years ago (my fault) I had a leak not from core but from motor and I left water in it not to leak everywhere.. well the winter came and I forgot and the whole system froze and cracked block.. I replaced motor and found heater core blew up..winter is here again and until I saw your video I did not want to do this 7 hour job...but I have removed my core with no fuss or stress in less then an hour just to find my blend door was cracked.. heading to store and I should have it back together in less then 2 hours.. awesome video... ps I am by myself and I should have it all don't from start to finish in less then 3 hours total work and theres not that many screws and bolts maybe about 50 total....all easy to get to...thanks again.....
Started to worry without seeing any new videos lately. Your videos are some of the most informative I've seen! Thanks
Duane, you're the man! I was going to make a video of this today and felt like I had to do it to help people. I wound up being helped by your video instead! Thank you so much!
Great info. The book said to drain down the ac system, but i see i only need to do that if i change the evap. I guess they want me to move the evap to get out the foam piece. thanks for the cutting tip for the foam piece, saved more time and money. Great series.
This was my first major mechanical job so I had no idea what I was doing but thanks to this video I was able to go threw it pretty easily and saved $900
Easy disconnect of heater lines no tool required. Leave them for last. If you look at part 3 of this video you can see the heater core in the box is far enough in the box that you can see the metal feed lines of the core. Just cut these and pull them through the firewall into the engine compartment. The disconnect is now real easy to undo. You also don't have to cut the foam to remove the core the cut lines slide right through it. The new core will slide right through the core openings in the foam. Wait till after you install the core to install the quick disconnect fittings, o-rings and spacers from the engine compartment side.
Agreed. Heater core will be replaced, you might as well cut the lines and slide them out of the hole at time of removal. Need the right tool for cutting though, there's limited space!
followed his instruction to the letter. worked like a charm. Thanks for the series.
Thank You for your clear understanding of how to replace a F150 heater core your at the end have clear view path of completing it correctly. Thanks so much. The only part I did not get on it was under the hood.
Thank you for these helpful video's. 2001 F150 4.6L original heater core was copper construction, it failed at 98k miles. Paid Ford to replace it, they installed an aluminum replacement part from Ford, it fail just two week prior to the warranty expiration so Ford replaced it again, another Aluminum version. It also failed but this time it was beyond the warranty. I have no fricken idea why these units keep failing but I opted to purchase a custom Copper Heater Core from "TheBrassWorks", cost me close to $400 for the part. I followed your instruction and man. . . what a fricken big job but I got it done and everything works!! Note, I followed Duane's suggestion and change out the Blend Door, I used Dorman 902-220 which has a sold metal gear, an improvement over the plastic with metal wrap that Duane shows in the video. The Sold metal gear is slightly skinnier that the original plastic, so it fit right in, perfectly. Hopefully I'll get another 100K or more out of my truck, its at 135k miles now. Also, I used my phone and just took picture of the screws, bolts, etc, and used zip lock back and labeled where the hardware came off. . . it definitely helps with the reassembly, this is a complicated job, it took me better than 12 hours total, including fighting to get off the original heater hose that connects at the back end of the engine block. . . that was a Mother-Fucxxr to get off.
Yep, it is a big job, that's why you want to only do it once. Glad the video helped, and you got it done. Thanks for adding your comments.
i'm so glad i watched this. i can't afford the 600 right now but at least now i know for today i can pack up my tools and tackle this another time. thank you so much for the information.
Did this on my Cavalier, a painful job!!! and the worst part is the dash is "cracky" plastic and sometimes it ends up breaking and cracking in some places!! great vid as usual Duane, waiting for the other parts!! thanx!
Thank you sir for making a fantastic video. It has helped me replace my heater core in a 1997 f150
Thank you for posting these three videos!
They were a great guide for me and my 1999 F150 4.6. After doing the procedure this weekend, I can really appreciate the intro scene you have in all three videos of you removing the dash assembly in one big piece. LOL!
Lots of really nice tips in here!
wish I found these videos before I started doing the same thing on my 97 expedition. best videos for this process I've watched.
This 3 part series was a great help! Thank you!
For those who would like to fabricate the hose removal tool. The perfect material to make this out of is 1.5" X 1.5" angle iron 1/8" thick .
The dimensions are for the 5/8 side; Total width - 1.66" . notch width - .80". notch depth - 1.0"...
the 3/4 side is; Total width 1.66". notch width - 1.0". notch depth - 1.25"...
Just fasten these on the opposite ends of 12 to 24 inch rod (1/4 to 1/2" thick)
I had one in my old Mustang, it was so hard I connected the in and return hoses together and left it without heat! I just now remembered I sold it that way one summer and never even thought to mention it!! Oh well, that was 20+ years ago, I bet they figured it out by now though I feel a bit bad about it now. Honest oversight, sorry.
Just did this job.
My driverside dash was a little different. The unit that connects the lights was a little different. I had a hidden bolt that I couldnt get to. I had to cut out the plastic framing to get to the screw that held it in. Also this guy doesnt mention the sockets. Your main socket will be a 9/32. Youll also need a 10mm and 13mm. Other then that it wasnt too bad. I put it all back together and i have a dim area on my speedometer. So be careful when re attaching. Its November and now the wife and kids have heat. Thanks realfixesrealfast!
That tool makes it a lot easier. The tool is very reasonably priced. Can't wait to see the rest of the videos in this series.
I have same 98 f150 and heat stopped working. I am getting little heat even after flushing system and changing thermostat. Heater hoses are both hot and there is no leakage so I suspect the blend door. Great video, I appreciate it and will do this soon because WINTER IS COMING!
I had the same problem in the same ford f 150 . I flushed my heater core and it works good for couple days , but them stopped heating again and later heater core broke. Hope you dont have same situation , good luck.
If you are still doing this, a couple of things.... be sure to remove the wire bundles from the passenger side wall or they will get snagged by the lower dash hinge. Also instead of buying a new door I sanded .05" off of the lower door hinge (evenly!) then slipped a 1/2" copper pipe FITTING piece over the stub..worked perfectly. Good Luck!
About the hose connectors not being quick: a "quick connect" isn't necessarily a quick disconnect. In fact, it's usually harder to disconnect these types of connectors (in an engine, at least) than if they'd used a slower-to-install method like clamps, bolts or screws.
Thanks for these videos. I changed my heater core by following this 3-part series. I am grateful! My only criticism, if any, was that you weren't as specific about taking the remainder of the dashboard out as you were in the rest of the videos. Even if you briefly showed or pointed out each screw, that extra 2-3 minutes would have helped. In any case, thank you!!!
Thanks I need to replace my heater core ! Luckily for me both cylinder heads are already removed so I have much more room to get to the hoses
I find the best way to use the hose removal tool is to engage it in the notches then push toward the fire wall and finally pull back. Mine were on there since 1998 and it to only 2 tries to remove them.
ive done many fords ,,,,expidetion,,f150 f250,,,navigator,,,,,,,,i remove colum ,,dash,,,etc,,,remove top cover of heater box,,,,,then cut h/c pipes with cable cutter or zizwheel hack saw etc,,,gives me room to remove hoses under hood and protect fittings so i can reinstall on h/c,,,if they dont brake apart,,,,also replace blend door with updated door,,,,i can do this complete 4hrs,,,,,,the f150 in about 3hr....
Thanks for taking the time to do the vids. Great job.!
I just wanna thank you for posting this video...!!! You are a "GREAT" teacher and I thank you..! I've saved myself lots of cash annd now have heat again..!
Excellent video. Thank you for posting it, it was extremely helpful!
Thanks !
I just got to say You guys got the best video How to .
One more extra tip...If you don't want to get or have access to the special tool for the quick disconnect, just cut the tubes off the old core from the inside (as long as your replacing it) and pull them through...very simple to do and you don't have to try and fish the tool into the slots of the connector...
That specialty tool is a big time [life] saver! What are the "book" hours, on a heater core R&R with this vehicle?
you are a GURU more power to you for sharing this mystery!
on those quick-connect i leave it to last i use my big pair of cutters and cut the heater core tubes and pull the hose out more into the engine compartment then remove the connects from the tubes
Did this in my 97 it is true ford hangs the heater core on the assembly line then builds the truck around it!!!!
stroked86cat best comment I’ve ever seen
For those looking for the hose tool , I believe it to be a OTC 7413-2
Just did mine and did the same thing, way better way of doing. Wish your post would've been here before I did it. Thought of it in shower on a Sunday morning.
This video is great. This is a big job but video really helps. Thanks
Did this for a Crown Victoria...Ford likes to hide their heater cores :) And, I would love to have had that tool...good stuff.
Cool videos (1, 2, and 3) for a pain in the ass job! My luck, I would forget to put something back together and have to backtrack the procedure to find it.
cathodic corrosion , combined with impure metal in an area that is stressed when the parts of the core or collectors are stamped out, most always on corners or joins
Very good and fast thank you.
If you wait until you have the dash and the top of the heater box off you can take a cutting wheel and cut off the heater core tubes from the inside and not have to fight getting the "Quick Connects" loose.
This is a great point. Doing it this way saves a lot of issues. You then can take the hoses off the cut off metal tubes and not have to worry about saving them. I also did not put the O rings back on until I had put the core in place. This way you put them on from the engine side and you won't lose them.
Frenchmens Creek I meant to say you can pull the heater hoses toward the front of the truck and use your hands to undo the quick connect and take the O rings off.
I did exactly this today. I cut em right off and am using simply hose clamps.
Sounds like a PITA.
Tgose quick connects take two hands and a little elbow grease.
Cant see jerry-rigging. Just to worry if the hoses will slip later on..
To each their own i guess..
I've watched a lot if videos where they don't disconnect those 3 connection on the drivers side fire wall? Why do you disconnect them?
Thanks for the video, very detailed.
Yeah, I disconnected them, then realized a bit later that it made no sense and it did nothing..
I like thes videos thanks duane and you crw for the time and big job!!!!!!!!!
saw your quick fix on a ford Taurus. Thinking it will work for a 2002 Ranger also. Will it? Do you have an evaporator and heater core replacement video for a 2002 Ranger? Thanks
On the heater core water lines there is no need to fool around with undoing those clips or needing that tool. Just wait till you get the dash off and you are at the heater core and and cut the metal tubes from the inside then all you have to do is get under the hood and pull the heater hose and the cut off line out and undo clips out in the open. The heater core is no good anyway so it doesn't matter.
saved me a ton of time!!!! Great video
It's called a heater hose disconnect tool. autozone sells them for 20 bucks
When replacing the heater core, Is it necessary to remove the bulkhead connectors on a 2008 F-150?
Where did you get your quick disconnect tool and who makes it? I went to NAPA looking for one & ended up buying a set of plastic snap on rings, hope they work.
90-degree offset players. 4$ at harbor freight.
Unless your have to give the old part back to the customer, cut them it'll save you time and you won't have to cut the foam pad which stays with the vehicle forever.
I jst did mine :) 10hrs lol thank u
Is the 2002 / F150 4.6 heater core replacement the same as your videos 3 part series
My Heater Core went out. Gotta love that "maple syrup" smell when it arrives. UGH! I have 314,000 miles on my 2000 F-150. The AC works fine. Is it a good idea to replace the evaporator core too? I will be doing the job myself.
Do you have a video how to change out the heater core on a 1998 Jeep Cherokee Sport? Are there any short cuts you can give me on this? I was told the whole dash has to come out.
hundred bucks an hour for labor. usually takes 7 hours for the job. Heater cores are definitely way under 100 bucks
The dimensions are for the 5/8 side; Total width - 1.66" . notch width - .80". notch depth - 1.0"...
the 3/4 side is; Total width 1.66". notch width - 1.0". notch depth - 1.25"...
i am having the hardest time pushing the hose back onto the new core pipes... what am i doing wrong?
what is the measurment of the hose disconnect tool? I have one and I think the part store sold me the wrong size.
Dont forget the Oring!
@hudsonjamesc they rust from the inside more if people just use water
I sure appreciate the time and trouble it took to make this video. Only 999 nuts bolts and screws to go. Wish me luck! :D
HI. GOT A 98 FORD RANGER 3.0 IS THIS PROCESS SIMILIAR FOR MY TRUCK?
Easier to cut the heater core and replace the hoses after or disconnect the pieces from the hoses if they are still good cheaper than buying a tool you'll use once in a great while...
What is the cost for something like that?
why (typically) would a heater core fail?
I thought you stopped making videos, I haven't seen a new one for quite a while
it's not so much the type material but the quality of it and the stamping process dies often stamp corners and bends to paper thinness
You dont really take all those connectors aloose do ya?
Is this the same for a 2007 F150?
Why didnt FMC make these hard to get at parts out of Stainless steel?
What's the name of the tool he used for the Quick connect ..?...
This is pretty much the same just without the screw on ends, $30-$40;
Blue Point Heater Hose Disconnect Tool Wrench YA9344
Changing the heater core in a 98 Ford F-150 I can't get the heater hoses to let go
Why does this job take 7-8 hours as the repair shop says?
@gradefuldead42022 same here
@ethandiaz 700 bucks possibly
Took 16 hours for my 97 f250. 5 screws left over. Oops
i need a video for a 98 f150, this didnt work for mine
Does any one know the name of the tool he uses on 4:20?
@MrKillswitch777 and i dont have 900 that the machanics want to change it for me
@ethandiaz id say 600-800 ive seen
its ridiculous how you have to take off everything .
It’s called a quick connect NOT. A quick disconnect.
I bet that job cost that client a arm and leg
Heers a 98 F150.. th-cam.com/video/-VqTstROMhQ/w-d-xo.html
Why does everyone talk about cutting pipes etc? Used 90-degree offset players to disconnect quick connectors. Then broke plastic tabs that remained at pipe with hand. Then simply pulled core out. I think it is better to hold front of plastic tabs than in notches. If you hold plastic in notches players or that tool is on way of coupler to get out.
I've watched other videos of replacing the heater core on a 97 to 2003 F150 and none of them ever showed anything about removing computer bulkhead wiring from the engine side of the firewall, so is this necessary? I thought wire connectors were taking apart underneath the dash.