Quick question, what do you rely on for alignment when putting the forks back in ? I know the distance within the top tree is easy to judge by eye but how do yo know they are truly straight if everything is tightened up before the wheel goes on ?
I suppose the best way would be to overfill and the use a syringe with a tupe attached the exact right length to remove all the oil above the disired fill line ...I believe it how the pros do it rather than attempting to go off measured amount which will probably not be accurate due to residule oil clinging inside etc...how much difference could that make? idk but what I want to know is would lighter help if the oem forks are sluggish? going from 5 wt down to 2.5? Or mix 2.5 with 5 wt to have 3.7
how do you make it look so easy to remove valve cap and seperate things when other videos show that you need to count number of clicks then use a spring compressor tool, you didnt do any of that. are you skipping something that youre not showing us, not mentioning tools.
I believe that is if you're taking everything completely apart in the forks and doing a full service of the forks, which really isn't necessary unless something is wrong and you need to. For a Fork oil change, this is really it. Not many tools required.
Same weight and level as oem, made a Hugh difference. Before the bike would feel unstable and not able to get my knee down, now it runs smooth in group 3 on the track (fastest group) 100% would do this with a bike I bought second hand
Quick question, what do you rely on for alignment when putting the forks back in ? I know the distance within the top tree is easy to judge by eye but how do yo know they are truly straight if everything is tightened up before the wheel goes on ?
Thank for the video mate. I'll give it a go now . cheers 👍
Sick bike!
is it safe to prop up the bike like that? will it bend the exhaust pipes
Put a towel under it and a wide piece of wood. Not even a scratch
R1 just weights 180kg, on a heavy bike I would not
Grande!
Que quantidade leva de óleo
What quantity did you put in
measure what you take out, best way! or fill up and measure empty space from top, i believe 110mm or similar
It should be 0.53L but the viscosity I don't know, I think 5W ?
I suppose the best way would be to overfill and the use a syringe with a tupe attached the exact right length to remove all the oil above the disired fill line ...I believe it how the pros do it rather than attempting to go off measured amount which will probably not be accurate due to residule oil clinging inside etc...how much difference could that make? idk but what I want to know is would lighter help if the oem forks are sluggish? going from 5 wt down to 2.5? Or mix 2.5 with 5 wt to have 3.7
@@Force242 standard is 5W, you could go with 7.5W or 10W if you want a stiffer feel or if you're heavy but it's not necessary
how do you make it look so easy to remove valve cap and seperate things when other videos show that you need to count number of clicks then use a spring compressor tool, you didnt do any of that. are you skipping something that youre not showing us, not mentioning tools.
Nope, no steps skipped. After new oil you should always re adjust your suspension settings. For changing internals, yes. This is just oil.
I believe that is if you're taking everything completely apart in the forks and doing a full service of the forks, which really isn't necessary unless something is wrong and you need to. For a Fork oil change, this is really it. Not many tools required.
Was it lighter oil than oem? Or level change? If not does not seem like it would make any big difference?
Same weight and level as oem, made a Hugh difference. Before the bike would feel unstable and not able to get my knee down, now it runs smooth in group 3 on the track (fastest group) 100% would do this with a bike I bought second hand