The E-Book and Paperback at our Website: www.acservicetech.com/the-book The Paperback at Amazon: www.amazon.com/shop/acservicetech Support the Channel- www.patreon.com/acservicetech Tool List- www.amazon.com/shop/acservicetech For those that are looking for the tools used in the videos: (Linked Below) Appion Valve Core Removal Tool amzn.to/2uYr8WL RectorSeal Bubble Gas Leak Detector - amzn.to/2ckWACn 25 Valve Cores - amzn.to/2L37UJU 25 ¼” Brass Port Caps with rubber O-rings - amzn.to/2GIOdD2 Brass Valve Core Tool which holds 3 valve cores - amzn.to/2GFEbm2 Valve Core Torque Wrench - amzn.to/2GHiLoD Locking Cap Universal Lock/Unlock Tool - amzn.to/2GGAoVp Locking caps - amzn.to/2GFXZ8A Ratcheting Service Wrench amzn.to/2dGV4Nh Yellow Jacket Sealright 90 Coupler- amzn.to/2LsU1V7 Yellow Jacket 1pk Compact Ball Valve- amzn.to/2uXdF18 Yellow Jacket 3pk Compact Ball Valve- amzn.to/2AiKfQe Thumb Screw Valve Core Depressor with Backseat- amzn.to/2mR0sCL UEI DL479 Multimeter with temp sensor amzn.to/2jtsUbJ Yellow Jacket Refrigerant Gauge Set amzn.to/2aenwTq Refrigerant hoses with valves amzn.to/2aBumVI Yellow Jacket Gauge set & hoses amzn.to/2vLVkV9 Yellow Jacket 4 Port Manifold w Hoses amzn.to/2BkuGIq Digital Refrigerant Scale amzn.to/2b9oXYl Ratcheting Service Wrench amzn.to/2dGV4Nh Accutrak VPE Ultrasonic Leak Detector amzn.to/2nFYKVe Accutrak VPE-GN Ultrasonic Leak Detector amzn.to/2Zy4IZP FieldpieceSMAN360 Digital Manifold Set amzn.to/2BdoaD4 FieldpieceSMAN460 Digital Manifold Set amzn.to/2nB4Fe6 Ultrasonic Leak Detector with Headphones- amzn.to/2B2cRO3 Compact Ball Valve for Refrigerant Hose amzn.to/2KUisW8 QuickDisconnect 90 for refrigerant hose amzn.to/2MMtVcg JB 6 CFM Vacuum Pump amzn.to/2nqbvo8 Appion Blue 3/8" to 1/4" Vacuum Hose amzn.to/2uYlVyc Appion Red 3/8" to 1/4" Vacuum Hose amzn.to/2uYg6Ro Appion Valve Core Removal Tool amzn.to/2uYr8WL Yellow Jacket 1/4" by 1/4" hose amzn.to/2umtcod CPS Vacuum Micron Gauge amzn.to/2v1nM3O Supco Vacuum Micron Gauge amzn.to/2v1JRiA RectorSeal Bubble Gas Leak Detector amzn.to/2ckWACn Magnet Jumpers- amzn.to/2PyKPQZ Alligator Jumpers- amzn.to/2PxqJXn Fieldpiece ST4 Dual Temp Meter amzn.to/2wc1ME3 Fieldpiece Bead K Type Temp Sensor amzn.to/2DBwKfs Fieldpiece Wet Bulb Temp Sensor amzn.to/2RRI7Tw Fieldpiece TC24 Temp Clamp amzn.to/2qHLyjZ UEI DL389 Multimeter amzn.to/2xAdaJf Air Acetylene Torch setup amzn.to/2aQalsb 15% Silver Brazing Rods amzn.to/2gVLyLc Nitrogen Regulator amzn.to/2bXdR5f Nitrogen Flow Meter amzn.to/2brvoBg Other tool links can be found in the video description section. Shop through Amazon! Your Purchases through Amazon provide a means for channels such as mine to earn advertising fees from all purchases after clicking through. Prices are the same as normal- www.amazon.com/shop/acservicetech
thank you for this, i had to downgrade my thermastat from the honeywell one since the wifi burned up in it and couldnt control it anymore, it also shares ur usage even if u didnt opt in. so i put another old stat in and this really helped as i forgot how it was setup since it doesnt have the full wiring for newer ones.
Got it. Thermostat operation for COOLING it connects R,c to Y and G to to operate the FAN and the CONTACTOR outside. For HEAT operation R is connected (inside the thermostat) for heat to the W But no connection to Fan, because with heat the fan is controlled by the control board. It is possible to have 2 transformers one for heat and one for cooling. Thank you. 11/19/2023
I get it. However, you’re ether do it right or don’t do it at all. Hose Rodriguez’s cheep ass just couldn’t afford a professional and that’s why he hired a “guy” who “wired his whole system wrong” 😂😂🤣🤣LMAO
Thank you very much for the tutorial. I have been telling my neighbor who bought a new Honeywell RTH2300 thermostate which HAS BATTERYS. I tried telling him you don't need to hook up the blue wire from your furnace to the RTH 2300 thermostat since the thermostat has battery's. I hooked it up this way without the blue wire connected to the RTH 2300 thermostat and BOOM on came the heat. Maybe a gander at this video will convince him.This is the only video I have found that specifically tell's you this about the blue wire and the RTH 2300 Honeywell thermostat. Honeywell done.
Thank you. I’m an automotive tech but with this wiring diagram and your explanation, I was able to join my furnace and central air from two separate thermostats to one.
Thank you for saving my butt, again! Viewed your stuff when a power surge burned up my HVAC circuit board last winter. Used it again today when the AC wouldn't cool (because I left a wire off of the new board). This is AWESOME!
That's the best video explanation of the signal flow for controlling all aspects of the handler and compressor units (and fan). As an electronics designer, I needed this information to complete my wireless performance monitor for my home's A.C. . It will map the efficiency, coolant temps, etc as an indication of declining performance changes BEFORE the compressor eats itself, requiring unnecessary replacement. I will also be buying your book. Based upon your detailed video, I expect the book to provide enough technical information to expand my expertise to do home repairs. Thank you. Great video. As a suggestion, I had to rewind the video a few times at points where message's speed of delivery outpaced my ability to hear and understand it. :-)
Very simple and very detailed explanation! I'm looking to have an AC installed to the existing furnace and now have a better idea how all the components work together.
Best explanation I've seen, Thanks. I had a new HVAC system installed last year and a honeywell stat that has 4 wire running to it.(no C wire). The system when in A/C mode will set there and run until I turn the stat up, but I have to turn it up 3 or 4 degrees or the temperature reading will jump a degree or 2 to match where I set it to. I know sounds crazy. It will also jump down and match within a degree or 2. SO... first I called honeywell thinking this must be a stat issue. They had me test the voltage readings of the 4 wires running to the stat. The 24v red was fine but one of the wires read lower like 9v and seemed to vary. Honeywell blamed the HVAC system as the problem. So I called the HVAC tech out and after thinking it was the wires running to the stat he checking the voltage readings at the unit with the stat wires removed, he got the same readings ( one circuit was low and varied) eliminating the wires to the stat as the issue. He then said it was an ECM module/motor.He did a warranty replacement of the ECM and said it's fixed. For some reason this issue takes a few hours before it acts up. Then the longer it runs the worse it gets. He finished the warranty repair and said even though the voltage is still low in one circuit the system was working fine, but the next day it did the same thing. I replaced the Honeywell stat again and it does the same thing. I noticed I only have one wire going to the outside unit??? It runs back to the White wire on the inside unit. The other wire that should run outside is hooked up to the Yellow circuit inside and runs to??? in the same harness at the white wire, but never shows up outside. If I unhook the wire not making it outside that is hooked to the Yellow inside wire and then retest voltage at the stat not only does the G wire still show 15.5v but also the Y will now show 15.5 v. Only thing I can think is the return circuit back inside from the outside coil/contactor is being made in the outside unit or through the line set??? This makes no sense.
Thanks for a simple yet informative description and schematic without talking down to us, I was able to figure out my issue thanks to you, and I had an odd problem too, that I was having trouble finding any info on it.... Blower would come on for the furnace only, AC and manual fan would not work. The condenser and fan on the AC unit kicked on but no blower. It's and old house and I thought I had a light green and dark green wire in my set of six wires from thermostat to HVAC unit. It hit me when watching this video that the dark green wire on my system was actually blue and just faded and dirty. It had come loose when putting in a board the other day, and I thought I messed up, but I hooked it back up and all is working great, thanks again!!
Great video helper. Now if just installation techs actually used the color coding correctly, the average home DIYer can fix a broken thermostat without frying something. I have seen and know techs that purposely connect by THEIR standard so when YOU try to fix it, BAM something breaks worse requiring you calling them for more money out your pocket. Since they are "certified HVAC" they will be protected from lawsuit being a non HVAC person should not be touching it in the first place. My 30 year old Nordyne system still runs strong today with my maintenance schedule and compressor cleaning system.
@@ebenezerwheezer4619 I just bought a new house and went to install a new thermostat. The previous tech left the C from the furnace disconnected, attached the the R from the furnace to the C going to the Thermostat, put a jumper from the C on the thermostat to the R, and wired the float switch between the C on the thermostat and a the red wire going to the condenser. I'm pretty sure that's how it was. But I know for sure the C from the furnace was unused and the red wire from the furnace was spliced into a blue wire and the condenser had a yellow and a red wire. So yeah, some of them screw it up their own special way. I guarantee it wasn't a homeowner who did that. The average homeowner isn't going to connect different colored wires to each other for giggles.
Excellent video explaining what the thermostat does to the wires in different settings. I tested my new thermostat on the bench (with a 24V transformer), verify that in heat mode, the W terminal is ON if setTemp > homeTemp and it goes OFF when setTemp
Thanks SO MUCH for this video AND the wiring diagram! Saved my ass BIG TIME! I had 1 wire in the wrong connection. Switched it and my 'smart' thermostat is operating my HVAC correctly now! Again, THANKYOU!
I really enjoyed the book that you offer. I'm hoping that you will come out with a book for gas and oil along with many other things. I would purchase them all. I really appreciate your hard work thank you.
Dylan, I am looking for reviews on Amazon if you could help out with that? I would appreciate it and they allow reviews even if you purchased it through my website. I am working on a workbook for this book and some quick charging and troubleshooting cards presently but would like to move to a EPA 608 review course or furnace book but like I have been saying, this latest book took years to build. I now did that so some of the learning curve is over but it is still a lot of work, thanks Dylan! I do look forward to creating new books in the future, thanks!
Great video that helped why my thermostat doesn’t have power from the furnace. Blue wire is not connected to the furnace power module. I only see five connections and cannot figure where the blue wire goes.
I recently installed a blower motor on a Bryant dual fuel system. Works great however a few terminal wires fell out and don't know where they go. I have multiple color wires and my picture I took is blurred and cannot see. Can I send a pic of what I have and hopefully get some guidance
Excellent. Thank you. Saved me an afternoon or full day of trying to troubleshoot. I think you're getting more likes than Donald Trump. Keep em coming.
Good explanations man. Trying to diagnose why my AC system won’t kick on now that I changed to a C wire smart thermostat. Hopefully I can find a vidoe explaining what I did wrong. But outstanding video none the less
Also,im looking for your book right now. This video makes things clear, if I'm willing to follow the wires from the ground thermostat, up into the crawl space between floors and then out to the unit outside. That may be my only hope of finding what's crossed?
Excellent as always. are there control boards such as on a Carrier 5ton/Nat.Gas Furnance Split residential (Control Board HK42FZ014) that for Cooling Mode do not need the R Connected by the Thermostat to G, and just connected to Y?
Thx for the info. I’m working with an old Lennox and a new thermostat and new Goodman condenser. They guy working on it was so frustrated because we could get the condenser and furnace blower to work and then when the thermostat was satisfied the furnace blower would shut off but not the condenser. He tried moving wires on the furnace 30 times and it’s still doing the same. The Contactor does operate fine he assuredly after I asked if the contactor was frozen closed. He never figured it out. Although I did snap a picture of the wiring block in the furnace and I did see the yellow wire connected to the common..😳. The tstat has a Y but the Lennox furnace block doesn’t have a y. That confused him because he didn’t know what to do with the yellow in the furnace.
@acservicetechchannel - Thank you. Do you have a video like this for a system where the furnace is separate from the AC? I'm having issues getting a common wire to not make the thermostat stop working and would love a video like this with a setup where the two units are not in the same box. Thank you.
I'm replacing an old mechanical thermostat with a honeywell 3210. While I'm reading the literature that came with it, I realized that I need a 3110 instead, because I don't have the W terminal. Can I just connect the white wire to B for heating or to Aux and E?
Referring to the DC vs AC thermostats power source, is it better to use a wired thermostat instead of a battery in the long run? My logic is you spend less on a pack of batteries if you charge them extra to wire the thermostat
U R the man. I was trying to find C wire, if its connected to the main board or not. Cause got 3 extra wires at thermostat but C wire wasn't connected. Found 24.5 V ac on C to R combination.. Thanks. My comment may help others...
So, my furnace coming out from the house is red and white wires as one big wire. Do I just connect them to the blue and yellow wires from the condenser together or split the them up like white to blue and then red to yellow? My condenser only has two wires like my thermostat.
In my case I have only rh and w, I really want fan control though, could I manually wire up a switch near the furnace to connect g to rh/rc without messing anything else up?
Hello, I was wondering if I can connect G wire on the thermostat and furnace to c wire, the thermostat does not have c wire so I’m connected G wire to C wire, the furnace c wire already has existing c wire from out side AC fan, I wanted to know if I can add G wire and C wire on C wire on the furnace.
I have 18/6 running from my furnace to a battery operated thermostat. I'm trying to update to a new thermostat that requires the C Wire but my furnace does not have a C terminal. Is it possible to follow the common from the 24v transformer and piggie back at that terminal then connect that wire to the C on the new thermostat?
Hey I noticed you say the red and white wires from the condenser going to the furnace board don’t matter when connecting to Y and C but mine were installed reverse (white to Y and red to C), I swapped the Honeywell thermostat to the Alexa thermostat and now the condenser won’t turn on 🤔, anything else I might have missed ??
I want to hook up a toggle switch to just run my fan. Does it matter what size of wire to use? Also on a 2 pole toggle switch what pole does the red wire go to? Ty
I didn't understand why my two condenser wires seemed to be error, Answer: 24v wire doesn't matter what side it is connected to outdoor condenser. Thanks for vital info. I will reverse wires to have correct color code.
My existing system is Gas Furnace and single AC unit. My existing thermostat has C,G,W,Y and R (no jumper). The new Thermostat has the choice of RC or RH with a jumper. (no R). Question: Which terminal do I place the existing "R" wire to? RC or RH? Do I leave the jumper in or remove?
I have 7 coloured thermostat wires. The blue is wired to common. I have a terminal named TWIN on the control board. I have the black and brown wires left. Where would those wires go?
I'm moving into a new home, and took off the old thermostat before the painter started work.. there were only two wires connected- black, and white. There was also a red wire and a yellow wire not connected to anything. (The thermostat only controls heat- no cooling or fans) The odd thing is, the black wire was connected to W, and the white wire was connected to R.. I wonder why it is that way? Could that be correct? The previous owner said the thermostat always functioned properly.. could this be because the wires are connected the same way at the furnace? (I'm not at the location so I can't check, but now I'm curious)
It’s 88 degrees in nj today. Turned my ac on with room temp at 78 and set temp at 72. 72 now but won’t shut off yet..it eventually shuts off. And if I put temp at 73 it’ll shut off. How can I tell if it’s bad capacitor or bad thermostat sensor for example? freon is good. Air cold out of vents Warm air from top of condenser Beer can cold!
Good question! First of all, I'm NOT a HVAC tech by any means, but you're right. There is a bit of residual cooling left on the A coil where if air is passed through it after the compressor shuts off, some "free" cooling could be extracted. You may get like a minutes worth before the coil attains ambient temp and starts to evaporate the condensate back into your house. We have a 20 year old Bryant furnace which has a smart control board. When A/C is called for, the compressor will start about 30 seconds before the blower! When thermo is satisfied, the compressor shuts down and blower runs another 2 min or so! Neat, huh? To further reinforce your idea, I once added a delay relay to a large window A/C unit to do just what you asked. Fan ran about 3 min after compressor shut off. My belief was that it would extract a bit more cold, cooled the compressor, while quickly reducing head pressure. Window shaker ran for years without problems!
@@curtchase3730, great I should have got that 20 year old Lenox I saw for $75-- that's sucks. Anyway ours is 37 year old Heil 90+ and maybe you can answer this quick question about it or its diagram. So in the stupid diagram manual, and also on the back of the top front panel cover diagram, is schematic where the combustion normally open relay is actually in parallel with the fan control limit switch, which seems crazy to me. So as you know the older furnaces have the bi-metal fan control switch which turns sending heat and then turns it off after w heat call ends and then it cools of course, so why would the diagrams want to sort that out with a combustion relay in parallel closing makes no sense because then when the heat calls they blower would come on immediately instead of letting the fan or blower control do it. Anyway that's what the diagram says but of course the furnace does not operate like that because the jumper or the wire from the combustion relay is not there of course but why would they list that wire connection in the schematics is what I don't understand. Does that make any sense because I've seen a couple of questions about that in some HVAC forums.
Hi. I have separate gas fhw and Ac units. Heat is in the basement and ac air handlers in the attic with condensers outside. Im looking to install a smart tstat and have access to a 24vac/common connection in the taco zone circulator controller (heat system) where I can easily bring 24vac back to the tstat location but everyone I talk to and read, seems that this wont work because the smart tstats are looking for the C wire to come from AC equipment. Its a 20 year old Lennox. I dont know if there is a C terminal on it but online general Lennox wiring diagrams appear to show it would. Its a bit of an access problem to open the air handler to look at the terminal block. Any suggestions? Thank you.
i have an older two-stage electric furnace with "R1" and "R" terminals jumpered, and want to connect a new two-stage thermostat. Which terminal is 1st stage and which is 2nd stage?
Hi Love to learn from your knowledge!!! I'm about to replace old r22 outdoor unit COOLING ONLY but owner wants to keep his old gas furnace ! I'm going to replace with 3 ton Goodman heat pump heating and cooling My question here can I connect to old gas furnace new Goodman heat pump? Owner like to have heat pump as a back up, Old gas furnace has control board C G Y W R Please 🙏 let me know? Thank you in advance ☺️
So I'm running into an issue. I have a boiler furnace with only two wires. W and R controlling 5 zone valves for the hot water baseboard. The A/C unit is completely separate. However there is only one zone for the ac and it is combined by one ecobee thermostat. When it's connected the voltage at the furnace jumps to around 30 volts. Then none of the valves work. Any thoughts?
Hi I'm installing an emerson 70 series non programmable thermostat on a hot water gas boiler system (no cooling) do I need to remove the jumper wire between RC and RH on the new thermostat
The E-Book and Paperback at our Website: www.acservicetech.com/the-book
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Support the Channel- www.patreon.com/acservicetech
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For those that are looking for the tools used in the videos: (Linked Below)
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Y ???
Thankypu gues sheri g
thank you for this, i had to downgrade my thermastat from the honeywell one since the wifi burned up in it and couldnt control it anymore, it also shares ur usage even if u didnt opt in. so i put another old stat in and this really helped as i forgot how it was setup since it doesnt have the full wiring for newer ones.
😊
Got it. Thermostat operation for COOLING it connects R,c to Y and G to
to operate the FAN and the CONTACTOR outside.
For HEAT operation R is connected (inside the thermostat) for heat to the W But no connection to Fan, because with heat the fan is controlled by the control board.
It is possible to have 2 transformers one for heat and one for cooling.
Thank you. 11/19/2023
I looked at your diagram fro 5 seconds and immediately figured out how the last guy wired my whole system wrong. Thank you.
BS. It wouldn’t be working.
@@yassocolorado Why would anyone make up something like that? Go sit in a corner.
Not saying you made it up. Wiring whole system wrong = not wiring it at all. Just say your cheap ass didn’t have dinero to hire a professional😂😂😂
@@yassocolorado it likely means they wired it using the wrong colors to the terminals. E.g. red to R/RC, blue to Y, etc.
I get it. However, you’re ether do it right or don’t do it at all. Hose Rodriguez’s cheep ass just couldn’t afford a professional and that’s why he hired a “guy” who “wired his whole system wrong” 😂😂🤣🤣LMAO
Thank you very much for the tutorial. I have been telling my neighbor who bought a new Honeywell RTH2300 thermostate which HAS BATTERYS. I tried telling him you don't need to hook up the blue wire from your furnace to the RTH 2300 thermostat since the thermostat has battery's. I hooked it up this way without the blue wire connected to the RTH 2300 thermostat and BOOM on came the heat. Maybe a gander at this video will convince him.This is the only video I have found that specifically tell's you this about the blue wire and the RTH 2300 Honeywell thermostat. Honeywell done.
Thank you. I’m an automotive tech but with this wiring diagram and your explanation, I was able to join my furnace and central air from two separate thermostats to one.
Thank God for a comprehensive and informative video. Some of these channels will drive a guy insane with irrelevant filler.
Thank you for saving my butt, again! Viewed your stuff when a power surge burned up my HVAC circuit board last winter. Used it again today when the AC wouldn't cool (because I left a wire off of the new board). This is AWESOME!
Hows that warranty treating ya
That's the best video explanation of the signal flow for controlling all aspects of the handler and compressor units (and fan). As an electronics designer, I needed this information to complete my wireless performance monitor for my home's A.C. . It will map the efficiency, coolant temps, etc as an indication of declining performance changes BEFORE the compressor eats itself, requiring unnecessary replacement. I will also be buying your book. Based upon your detailed video, I expect the book to provide enough technical information to expand my expertise to do home repairs. Thank you. Great video. As a suggestion, I had to rewind the video a few times at points where message's speed of delivery outpaced my ability to hear and understand it. :-)
OMG SPEND DAYS trying to figure this out.... One picture solved everything
I don’t know how many times I did watch your videos still I like to watch over and over.
Easy to understand. Only one wire "Y" was connected to my compressor, I assumed the other wire went to "C" video confirmed. Issue Resolved on hot day.
Very simple and very detailed explanation! I'm looking to have an AC installed to the existing furnace and now have a better idea how all the components work together.
Got my AC working again, after I replaced the thermostat and some wiring. Thank you so much for the helpful video!
Hey I replaced my Honeywell thermostat with the Alexa thermostat and now the condenser won’t turn on , do you have any suggestions 🤔
Best explanation I've seen, Thanks. I had a new HVAC system installed last year and a honeywell stat that has 4 wire running to it.(no C wire). The system when in A/C mode will set there and run until I turn the stat up, but I have to turn it up 3 or 4 degrees or the temperature reading will jump a degree or 2 to match where I set it to. I know sounds crazy. It will also jump down and match within a degree or 2. SO... first I called honeywell thinking this must be a stat issue. They had me test the voltage readings of the 4 wires running to the stat. The 24v red was fine but one of the wires read lower like 9v and seemed to vary. Honeywell blamed the HVAC system as the problem. So I called the HVAC tech out and after thinking it was the wires running to the stat he checking the voltage readings at the unit with the stat wires removed, he got the same readings ( one circuit was low and varied) eliminating the wires to the stat as the issue. He then said it was an ECM module/motor.He did a warranty replacement of the ECM and said it's fixed. For some reason this issue takes a few hours before it acts up. Then the longer it runs the worse it gets. He finished the warranty repair and said even though the voltage is still low in one circuit the system was working fine, but the next day it did the same thing. I replaced the Honeywell stat again and it does the same thing. I noticed I only have one wire going to the outside unit??? It runs back to the White wire on the inside unit. The other wire that should run outside is hooked up to the Yellow circuit inside and runs to??? in the same harness at the white wire, but never shows up outside. If I unhook the wire not making it outside that is hooked to the Yellow inside wire and then retest voltage at the stat not only does the G wire still show 15.5v but also the Y will now show 15.5 v. Only thing I can think is the return circuit back inside from the outside coil/contactor is being made in the outside unit or through the line set??? This makes no sense.
Thank you. Replaced my blower motor and knocked some wires loose. Your vid helped troubleshoot.
got me out of a jam.Thanks!
Thanks so much Brian!
Thanks for a simple yet informative description and schematic without talking down to us, I was able to figure out my issue thanks to you, and I had an odd problem too, that I was having trouble finding any info on it.... Blower would come on for the furnace only, AC and manual fan would not work. The condenser and fan on the AC unit kicked on but no blower. It's and old house and I thought I had a light green and dark green wire in my set of six wires from thermostat to HVAC unit. It hit me when watching this video that the dark green wire on my system was actually blue and just faded and dirty. It had come loose when putting in a board the other day, and I thought I messed up, but I hooked it back up and all is working great, thanks again!!
This prove that I would literally watch anything that youtube recommend
Saved me in a pinch.replaced my furnace over the winter but didn't connect the condenser lines, thanks a bunch
Great video helper. Now if just installation techs actually used the color coding correctly, the average home DIYer can fix a broken thermostat without frying something. I have seen and know techs that purposely connect by THEIR standard so when YOU try to fix it, BAM something breaks worse requiring you calling them for more money out your pocket. Since they are "certified HVAC" they will be protected from lawsuit being a non HVAC person should not be touching it in the first place. My 30 year old Nordyne system still runs strong today with my maintenance schedule and compressor cleaning system.
Lol or just TH-cam how to wire it correctly and you wouldn’t have that problem
That's such a lie and if not it's definitely anecdotal
Compressor cleaning system......
@@ebenezerwheezer4619 I just bought a new house and went to install a new thermostat.
The previous tech left the C from the furnace disconnected, attached the the R from the furnace to the C going to the Thermostat, put a jumper from the C on the thermostat to the R, and wired the float switch between the C on the thermostat and a the red wire going to the condenser.
I'm pretty sure that's how it was. But I know for sure the C from the furnace was unused and the red wire from the furnace was spliced into a blue wire and the condenser had a yellow and a red wire.
So yeah, some of them screw it up their own special way. I guarantee it wasn't a homeowner who did that. The average homeowner isn't going to connect different colored wires to each other for giggles.
Sue for not following industry standards.if the color code isn't right he's incompetent or a scammer either way they deserve it
Thank you. Your video helped me troubleshoot a 24v wire that was shorting to the case ground in my condenser unit. It’s working now!!!
Glad it helped
Thanks!
Exactly the explanation I was looking for. Thank you. Well done.
Man that’s so helpful for new techs like me
Excellent video explaining what the thermostat does to the wires in different settings. I tested my new thermostat on the bench (with a 24V transformer), verify that in heat mode, the W terminal is ON if setTemp > homeTemp and it goes OFF when setTemp
2stageis het pump expaningbai
Exceptional! Thank you for your well-organized explanation!
Thanks man I have been home being a dad the last 4 years....I'm going back to work finally Wednesday..I'm a rough in guy. I hope I'm not to rusty.
You got this!
@@acservicetechchannel THANK YOU!!!
You make life so easy man!! Love it
Thanks I needed this wiring diagram.
Glad I could help
Thank you for let's this info 🙏
I work with Boston standard company but I wanna learn more about the system I'm a electrician 🙏
Excellent video. Thank you!
Thanks SO MUCH for this video AND the wiring diagram! Saved my ass BIG TIME! I had 1 wire in the wrong connection. Switched it and my 'smart' thermostat is operating my HVAC correctly now! Again, THANKYOU!
Thanks for this, this information probably saved me quite a bit of money today.
Simple and easy. Thank you for the explanation!!!
Great video finally got my condenser to turn on thanks
Glad it helped
Wonderful explanation. Clear and concise.
Glad it was helpful!
@@acservicetechchannel2 years later I am watching again. reinforcing this lesson.
I really enjoyed the book that you offer. I'm hoping that you will come out with a book for gas and oil along with many other things. I would purchase them all. I really appreciate your hard work thank you.
Dylan, I am looking for reviews on Amazon if you could help out with that? I would appreciate it and they allow reviews even if you purchased it through my website. I am working on a workbook for this book and some quick charging and troubleshooting cards presently but would like to move to a EPA 608 review course or furnace book but like I have been saying, this latest book took years to build. I now did that so some of the learning curve is over but it is still a lot of work, thanks Dylan! I do look forward to creating new books in the future, thanks!
Just bought a wire toner cuz I confused some wires hooking up a smart thermostat. Hopefully this video will be helpful.
Great video that helped why my thermostat doesn’t have power from the furnace. Blue wire is not connected to the furnace power module. I only see five connections and cannot figure where the blue wire goes.
I recently installed a blower motor on a Bryant dual fuel system. Works great however a few terminal wires fell out and don't know where they go. I have multiple color wires and my picture I took is blurred and cannot see. Can I send a pic of what I have and hopefully get some guidance
Excellent. Thank you. Saved me an afternoon or full day of trying to troubleshoot. I think you're getting more likes than Donald Trump. Keep em coming.
Glad it helped! Thanks for watching 😂
Thank you for Variable Explanations....👍👍
I also just ordered the book from amazon it haven’t came in it but looking for to using it great video very helpful keep up the good work man 👍👍
Thanks a lot Terry and please let me know what you think of the book after reading it!
Great video! Thank you!
Thank you for watching, I'm glad you liked it!
Thank you.this video was the greatest.
Good explanations man. Trying to diagnose why my AC system won’t kick on now that I changed to a C wire smart thermostat. Hopefully I can find a vidoe explaining what I did wrong. But outstanding video none the less
Hey did you figure this out? I switched to an Amazon thermostat and now the AC won’t turn out smh
@@skine1107 I had to rearrange a wire on the furnace itself. That was 3 years ago tho. I can’t recall what I did sadly.
Also,im looking for your book right now. This video makes things clear, if I'm willing to follow the wires from the ground thermostat, up into the crawl space between floors and then out to the unit outside. That may be my only hope of finding what's crossed?
Very helpful . Thank you for sharing
Great job and video
Glad you enjoyed it
Excellent as always. are there control boards such as on a Carrier 5ton/Nat.Gas Furnance Split residential (Control Board HK42FZ014) that for Cooling Mode do not need the R Connected by the Thermostat to G, and just connected to Y?
Super healthy explanation!
Thanks for your tech tips!, awesome!!
Glad it was helpful!
Thx for the info. I’m working with an old Lennox and a new thermostat and new Goodman condenser. They guy working on it was so frustrated because we could get the condenser and furnace blower to work and then when the thermostat was satisfied the furnace blower would shut off but not the condenser. He tried moving wires on the furnace 30 times and it’s still doing the same. The Contactor does operate fine he assuredly after I asked if the contactor was frozen closed. He never figured it out. Although I did snap a picture of the wiring block in the furnace and I did see the yellow wire connected to the common..😳. The tstat has a Y but the Lennox furnace block doesn’t have a y. That confused him because he didn’t know what to do with the yellow in the furnace.
Very Good. Thank you!!!
Thanks for watching! I'm glad you liked it!
@acservicetechchannel - Thank you. Do you have a video like this for a system where the furnace is separate from the AC? I'm having issues getting a common wire to not make the thermostat stop working and would love a video like this with a setup where the two units are not in the same box. Thank you.
Awesome! Good to have a proper explanation. Many thanks!
Do you service heaters also
Thanks. Very informative!
Great video very explanatory
Thank you for your support
Informative, thank you.
Good explanation, did my troubleshooting in my unit with this video, thanks 🙂🙂🙂
Glad it helped
Great video very informative and to the point thank you very much 👍
Do you have a video showing how zone dampers work (Zonefirst system).
Will this wiring be the same on a gas package unit ?
Muchas gracias su video informacion me ayudo bastante muy bien explicado y detallado de nuevo muchas gracias.
I'm replacing an old mechanical thermostat with a honeywell 3210. While I'm reading the literature that came with it, I realized that I need a 3110 instead, because I don't have the W terminal. Can I just connect the white wire to B for heating or to Aux and E?
Referring to the DC vs AC thermostats power source, is it better to use a wired thermostat instead of a battery in the long run? My logic is you spend less on a pack of batteries if you charge them extra to wire the thermostat
U R the man. I was trying to find C wire, if its connected to the main board or not. Cause got 3 extra wires at thermostat but C wire wasn't connected. Found 24.5 V ac on C to R combination.. Thanks. My comment may help others...
Great video . Wanted more videos like the add on air cycler and how it works. Tnx
Can you please do a video on communicating systems? Thanks Craig.
So, my furnace coming out from the house is red and white wires as one big wire. Do I just connect them to the blue and yellow wires from the condenser together or split the them up like white to blue and then red to yellow? My condenser only has two wires like my thermostat.
In my case I have only rh and w, I really want fan control though, could I manually wire up a switch near the furnace to connect g to rh/rc without messing anything else up?
Hello, I was wondering if I can connect G wire on the thermostat and furnace to c wire, the thermostat does not have c wire so I’m connected G wire to C wire, the furnace c wire already has existing c wire from out side AC fan, I wanted to know if I can add G wire and C wire on C wire on the furnace.
I have 18/6 running from my furnace to a battery operated thermostat. I'm trying to update to a new thermostat that requires the C Wire but my furnace does not have a C terminal. Is it possible to follow the common from the 24v transformer and piggie back at that terminal then connect that wire to the C on the new thermostat?
LIFE SAVER!!!!
Glad it was helpful
Thank you for sharing!
Hey I noticed you say the red and white wires from the condenser going to the furnace board don’t matter when connecting to Y and C but mine were installed reverse (white to Y and red to C), I swapped the Honeywell thermostat to the Alexa thermostat and now the condenser won’t turn on 🤔, anything else I might have missed ??
I want to hook up a toggle switch to just run my fan. Does it matter what size of wire to use? Also on a 2 pole toggle switch what pole does the red wire go to? Ty
If I have a R and a RC wire can I use one (the RC) in the C spot and run a jumper from R to RC?
I didn't understand why my two condenser wires seemed to be error, Answer: 24v wire doesn't matter what side it is connected to outdoor condenser. Thanks for vital info. I will reverse wires to have correct color code.
My existing system is Gas Furnace and single AC unit. My existing thermostat has C,G,W,Y and R (no jumper). The new Thermostat has the choice of RC or RH with a jumper. (no R). Question: Which terminal do I place the existing "R" wire to? RC or RH? Do I leave the jumper in or remove?
I have 7 coloured thermostat wires. The blue is wired to common. I have a terminal named TWIN on the control board. I have the black and brown wires left. Where would those wires go?
are all systems hooked up like this?
Thank you, excellent video and explanation 👍🏼
Thanks Marlon!
I'm moving into a new home, and took off the old thermostat before the painter started work.. there were only two wires connected- black, and white. There was also a red wire and a yellow wire not connected to anything. (The thermostat only controls heat- no cooling or fans)
The odd thing is, the black wire was connected to W, and the white wire was connected to R.. I wonder why it is that way? Could that be correct? The previous owner said the thermostat always functioned properly.. could this be because the wires are connected the same way at the furnace? (I'm not at the location so I can't check, but now I'm curious)
Should the condenser outside kick on when using the heater??
It’s 88 degrees in nj today. Turned my ac on with room temp at 78 and set temp at 72. 72 now but won’t shut off yet..it eventually shuts off. And if I put temp at 73 it’ll shut off. How can I tell if it’s bad capacitor or bad thermostat sensor for example?
freon is good.
Air cold out of vents
Warm air from top of condenser
Beer can cold!
Why not have a cooling G delay after compressor shuts off to extract more cooling just like heat does when combustion shuts off?
Good question! First of all, I'm NOT a HVAC tech by any means, but you're right. There is a bit of residual cooling left on the A coil where if air is passed through it after the compressor shuts off, some "free" cooling could be extracted. You may get like a minutes worth before the coil attains ambient temp and starts to evaporate the condensate back into your house. We have a 20 year old Bryant furnace which has a smart control board. When A/C is called for, the compressor will start about 30 seconds before the blower! When thermo is satisfied, the compressor shuts down and blower runs another 2 min or so! Neat, huh? To further reinforce your idea, I once added a delay relay to a large window A/C unit to do just what you asked. Fan ran about 3 min after compressor shut off. My belief was that it would extract a bit more cold, cooled the compressor, while quickly reducing head pressure. Window shaker ran for years without problems!
@@curtchase3730, great I should have got that 20 year old Lenox I saw for $75-- that's sucks. Anyway ours is 37 year old Heil 90+ and maybe you can answer this quick question about it or its diagram. So in the stupid diagram manual, and also on the back of the top front panel cover diagram, is schematic where the combustion normally open relay is actually in parallel with the fan control limit switch, which seems crazy to me. So as you know the older furnaces have the bi-metal fan control switch which turns sending heat and then turns it off after w heat call ends and then it cools of course, so why would the diagrams want to sort that out with a combustion relay in parallel closing makes no sense because then when the heat calls they blower would come on immediately instead of letting the fan or blower control do it. Anyway that's what the diagram says but of course the furnace does not operate like that because the jumper or the wire from the combustion relay is not there of course but why would they list that wire connection in the schematics is what I don't understand. Does that make any sense because I've seen a couple of questions about that in some HVAC forums.
Hi. I have separate gas fhw and Ac units. Heat is in the basement and ac air handlers in the attic with condensers outside. Im looking to install a smart tstat and have access to a 24vac/common connection in the taco zone circulator controller (heat system) where I can easily bring 24vac back to the tstat location but everyone I talk to and read, seems that this wont work because the smart tstats are looking for the C wire to come from AC equipment. Its a 20 year old Lennox. I dont know if there is a C terminal on it but online general Lennox wiring diagrams appear to show it would. Its a bit of an access problem to open the air handler to look at the terminal block. Any suggestions? Thank you.
Thank you sir very sample video and thank again
Glad to help!
So clear. 👍
Very well done......Thank you
Thank you very much for your video. Question: Would a Sequencer relate to cooling system?
i have an older two-stage electric furnace with "R1" and "R" terminals jumpered, and want to connect a new two-stage thermostat. Which terminal is 1st stage and which is 2nd stage?
What's the best way to wire a 24v air purifier? Typically we want it to come on when the blower comes on. Also do you recommend a transformer.
Thank you for sharing.
What might be happening if I only get 12v on the Y+C going out to the condenser?
So the control baord is what sends power to the thermostat?
Hi
Love to learn from your knowledge!!!
I'm about to replace old r22 outdoor unit COOLING ONLY
but owner wants to keep his old gas furnace !
I'm going to replace with 3 ton Goodman heat pump heating and cooling
My question here can I connect to old gas furnace new Goodman heat pump? Owner like to have heat pump as a back up, Old gas furnace has control board C G Y W R
Please 🙏 let me know?
Thank you in advance ☺️
So I'm running into an issue. I have a boiler furnace with only two wires. W and R controlling 5 zone valves for the hot water baseboard. The A/C unit is completely separate. However there is only one zone for the ac and it is combined by one ecobee thermostat. When it's connected the voltage at the furnace jumps to around 30 volts. Then none of the valves work. Any thoughts?
Hi I'm installing an emerson 70 series non programmable thermostat on a hot water gas boiler system (no cooling) do I need to remove the jumper wire between RC and RH on the new thermostat