Ugly Monocouche Render Stains - Roger's Rant
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 8 ส.ค. 2019
- Time for another one of Roger's Rants. He has seen too many stained Monocouche renders and wants to share his thoughts.
#Monocouche #RogerRant
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Totally agree Roger. I've been involved in some new builds over the past 5 years where it's shameful the condition the render is in now. Even where external fan grills have been mounted on the render, you get the water marks either side of the grill. Today's architects love render, even if it's just a panel to break up the massing of brickwork. Same applies, water marks at the cills, boiler flues, basically anywhere that rainwater is allowed to be directed back against the render. I'd rather just see a traditional brick built property with some feature brick details or stone cills / lintels anyday.
Looks bloody brilliant when new. I’ve seen this staining all over and in different colours. Seems like a better background for organic mould build up too.
Great video Roger. We are just starting a major renovation and have to decide between a render or clad external finish. As we have a long north facing wall, there seems to be more of a risk for algae etc to stain a rendered finish. Neither our architect or any of the builders we hope to use have mentioned maintenance issues. Maybe we are now leaning towards composite cladding or even brick slips.
Great channel👍... We don't have that problem in the USA. On the east coast we mostly use red cedar shingles or clapboard. Lasts 30 yrs... Mostly Koma exterior trim ( a plastic , non shrinking type, never rots) ..
Very interesting. I learnt something today - thanks!!
Excellent video, Roger. Good information.
around here that stain also comes from vehicle smog filling the pores and then the occasional rain washing them down busy streets are the worst busy streets with many old diesel pos going thru even worse. thanks roger i picked up a thing or two today. in my experience if it has a texture sooner or later is going to cause problems. the owner of the house with the round window has another problem too... take care man. thanks again. pete
Excellent info, Rog
Here in Latvia, new buildings are looking pretty shoddy after only a few years. I agree that it's down to the architects. Thanks for a great vid. 👍🏻
The problem with Monocouche and it's brothers is the fact that it's really porous.
My son does a lot of Monocouche, (because his customers prefer the look), but over 30 years ago now I was using 'Blue-Circle Hi-build' ... (The Pre-coloured exterior coatings) that were used to enhance the basic sand and cement render and required no maintenance. I recently went on a Nostalgia-Trip in my car (now that I'm long retired) and was very pleased to see that those with the Hi-Build still looked as good as the day they were finished (Well - Nearly ;-)
A good hose-down every ten years is all they needed ... And NO - I'm not associated in any way with the Hi-Build products. Not even sure if you can still get it - it was dang expensive stuff, even back then :-)
Good rant Roger! we had this problem with alpine render about 25yrs ago, that went out of fashion as will monocouche renders, this is now the dilemma we have with all these products in todays market ; they are not suitable for all locations but they are happy to sell you them, in the past they did not have a multitude of products to use so they became very proficient at what they did have. we all say they don't build them like they used to but I can assure you I have pulled out plenty of rotten windows, roofs & walls in old properties.
when I was on holiday in Cornwall I went through Nansleden which is a new model town that Prince Charles has been involved in, some of the houses are done out in nice pastel colours like pinks and blues (would probably look daft in Leeds but seems to work at the seaside!). I thought they had just painted them but I wonder if they have this stuff on, I didn't even know it existed.
That site is painted
Thanks for this video , I have to get my new garage / workshop rendered , was recommended K render but after this I think I might save my money and opt for a traditional render then Sandtex paintb , and repaint every 5 years with an airless sprayer I will buy with money I save .
Totally agree with you have being saying this for years, what did the builders of old know then that we don’t know now
Hi Roger, from what I see of your videos you are the perfect person to give an unbiased opinion. I am looking at having a spray-on exterior render applied to my house which was rebuilt about 20 years ago and the old traditional rendering which has been re-painted a couple of times has a few stress crack and marks whichI would like to cover/disguise. I have been looking at Corksol and Monocouch spray on type as being most likely to be appropriate. I think there is also one called Thermocork. I am based in Herfordshire and wonder what your thoughts would be?
It's mantanence free in the colour black 😂😂😂😂 that's if there are no birds about 🤣🤣🤣🤣
😂🤣😂🤣
found this video very informative and useful,
Umm very interesting one for me this one S.B. eventually i need to put some sort of external coating on my own home. It has made me decide if i go for a monocouche finish, i would prefer to use m9re of a smooth finish as opposed to textured (hopefully it will be better wearing).
I don't fancy having to paint it though!
Like you said what's the point in going to the expense of using it, if it needs to be painted the same as normal render.
Great video as always 😘
Spot on Roger, basically poor detailing at the transitions will result in staining and this is the case whether it’s monocouche or a cement based render. Same outcome on boundary walls, the copes should have drips as in concrete or timber sills. Attention to detailing by an architect at design stage and quality, tight workmanship will prevent or mitigate against the problem.
Hi Roger, good work!, having spent far too many years sorting out maintenance and repair issues on buildings of all shapes and sizes I have been observing the evidence of errors in design and construction leading to long term problems, the mantra I now preach to my clients is that there is no such thing as maintenance free!, anyone who offers such performance is mistaken or mendacious!. I have just watched two or three of your videos and am well impressed!.
The dark staining that you are showing is most likely to be some carbon based material, maybe dead algae, which was pale green when alive and wet but once dried and dead remains as a sooty residue. You are of course correct in saying that the real problem is due to the water running over the surface, an issue aggravated by non-porous but textured surface applications. Porous surfaces like traditional clay brickwork absorb and distribute substantial amounts of water which will then evaporate slowly, and so do not support the same colonies of algae on the surface, we used to say that if you fill a bucket full of water with bricks after about an hour the bricks will have drunk all the water!. (of course quite a lot of the water will have overflowed as you put the bricks in!).
The old methods of creating sailing courses and drips was of course very effective in reducing the surface water issues but because the industry that evolved those practices was not respected by the commercial interests and the craftsmen did not often know why things were done that way, no science was applied.
One of the problems that re-occurs with some frequency nowadays is the appearance of damp patches on walls and ceilings caused by condensation, when most people see a wet patch they quite naturally suspect that there is a leak somewhere, because the water vapour that is the source of the wet is invisible, hanging in the air, the average modern house with central heating may have several gallons of water just hanging there until it can find a cold spot. This leads to the house-holder discovering a wet patch on the outside of the wall opposite the condensation patch on the inside, I now watch the clients' face very carefully as I describe how the evaporation of water from the outside lower the temperature of the masonry and heat comes through from inside, causing the cold spot for the condensation, the trick is to take it steady, step by step, and if I see the victims eyes start to glaze over, back off, clarify the missing bit, don't just carry on. These experiences have become familiar to me now, but in the early years I really did struggle because it has always been important to me to be able to put together a rational and logical account of what I observe and do, not just go and do as I was told just because the person telling me thought he was my boss. As you can imagine I was often not very popular with some of my employers, in fact I had to give them up and become self employed! Cheers Richard.
Great comment. We might cut and paste it onto our website as a guest blog with your permission. You are so spot on and the bit about dried algae going black is also very interesting. I had it all down to diesel fumes etc but maybe that is not the whole story. Having said that when we wipe a damp cloth across the roof of the car the cloth is black. We can do this every week which just shows how thick this crap is in the air and we breathe it in.
@@SkillBuilder Hi Roger, thank you so much for your prompt and kind response, even as I was writing my comment I was aware that yet again it was getting longer and longer, so I am very pleased to get such a positive response!. By l means make any use you can of it, and don't be too surprised if some more appears!, as you might see I do not plan or rehearse any comment I put on U-tube channels, I feel free to use the opportunity to submit utterly off the cuff!.
The thing about the black stain and its origin is by no means certain and you may well be correct, partly because of the lower light levels I usually suppose that similar dark stains on internal surfaces are from fungal colonies, again they wont appear until the mould has dried out and died. I live in Cambridge next to the railway and although a lot of the houses have been sand-blasted the ones that have not been cleaned are much less black than they were during the steam train era, and I will never forget the filthy black dust lining all the loft space in the slate roofed houses that I have stripped and re-covered, nowadays the dust does not seem so bad but that maybe partly because it is made of smaller particles and the volume somewhat reduced.
My thoughts about the external stains partly arise from an interesting experience I had many years ago when I had to re-point an old brick house front with a lime mortar and wanted to apply wet mortar to wet joints without staining the brick work, someone suggested using cooking oil as a barrier and it seemed to work really well, no sign of any lime stain anywhere, job done very neat and tidy, well pleased!, so I went back to look admire it a few weeks later and - shock horror- all the bricks had gone black !, I could hardly believe it!, the cooking oil ( no brand names here) was a vegetable oil and off course it decomposed!, I scuttled off with my tail between my legs, never do that again, now I have to wash off the excess with a wet sponge and a lot of water about half an hour after application, you live and learn!. Cheers, Richard.
@@richardharvey1732 That oil story reminded me that Fred Dibbner used to use linseed oil in his pointing mix but the birds will peck it out if they can get a perch so not good everywhere.
We K Rended just the lower part of the house that has overhangs that clear it, it's crazy to think it is maintenance-free, we give ours a quick dry brush over and it's as good as new if it had water runs it would stain like mad
Monocouche, Monocouche, will you do the Fandango? (Sorry, couldn’t resist 😎) Roger ranting rounds off a perfect week!
Thunderbolts and lightning very very frightening me , Sorry.
(Galileo) Galileo.
Galileo Piccolo
Magnifico oh, oh, oh,
@@loafersheffield Mamma mia Mamma mia Mamma mia let me go. Next!
Put a devil on the sideboard
Not a big fan of either .... looks fantastic when it first goes on then can only deteriorate from there . I may be biased but you can’t beat a beautiful, well built face brick wall 🧱🧱🧱🧱👍🏼
Totally agree Steve. A bit of feature brickwork to offer a bit of detail goes a long way. I've seen plenty of poorly applied render too. Discolouration, not sure if that's due to it being poorly mixed and just poor finishes at internal and external corners. And this is all before the property has had the first tenant in!
John Daniells 😬 absolutely 🧱👍🏽
Traditional cavity wall with a nice stone cill / lintel and a bit of a feature brick panel...take my money!
John Daniells 💷👍🏼🧱
Never a truer word said. Lay the brick, point it up. Maintenance free and good looks for yonks👍👍. Well said Steve
I want to take my old brown tiles off. Was going to render the whole house then,but just don’t know what to do now. It’s so 70s but want a modern look
We find hitting them with fungal wash then a pressure wash and apply a silicone paint. Also some of the issues in this video as well are from being applied to thin.
Well said Roger. Most of the new builds here in Bristol, UK are such bland, cheap designs and they invariably suffer from this. "Sinking the ship for a halfpenny of tar" is a phrase that comes to mind when looking at most modern buildings. Old buildings still look beautiful for a reason.
Oddly enough Bristol has that row of iconic rendered houses painted different colours. Not a stain on them
Totally agree my chimney spoils the whole look of the house and is too high for us to get the jet washer to it, previously was pebble dashed which had been painted, when we had the house renovated we were sold on the fact we wouldn't have to paint it it was done less than 4 years ago we live on a main road so pollution is obviously not helping.
We stopped using theses systems years ago because of the problem you are describing, plus if the render cracks ( and it does ) its impossible to do an invisible repair on it. The open texture allows water and dirt to enter and even with cleaning some stains will remain. Plastic beads allow water to enter the render, and lets be honest they look crap. In the UK you cant beat the tried and tested systems. I agree with you that theses are not maintenance free as advertised in fact a whole industry has now come about just cleaning theses render systems. I have been involved in exterior wall finishes for some 50 years now theses are just a remake of the old Blue Circle Tyrolean / Alpine mix.
Time for the Zinsser Allcoat 👌
Great video apart from saying to use a jet washer to clean the building.
Silicone render is the best solution. It could be applied over the top of other systems or ocr on block work primer then silicone render it's dead easy to use too!
Hi Roger, thanks - that's a really informative video and a great rant :) I've just bought my first home and I think I have some k-rend on the outside. I'm seeing exactly what you show here - black marks on the render where water has been allowed to run. But I'm also seeing ghosting of the brick work in some places through the render. Should I be worried about water ingress due to this? It's my first home and I'm a bit concerned so any info / response is much appreciated! Thanks again for the video - great content!
Hi Mike
It is by no means unusual to see the brickwork ghosting or telegraphing through. It is nothing to worry about. Sometimes the render is acrylic or silicone and they use a thin base coat and a thinner top coat. Some of the good guys will run over the wall with a leveller first to bring the mortar joints flush with the brickwork but not always.
Just give the render a spray with a dilute coat of fungicidal wash and leave it for a few days. I said it was polution but it is just as likely to be mould so wasing it down will kill the spores and hopefully leave some kind of protection.
Just as a general point try not to worry about things going wrong, houses require some maintenance and TLC but don't forget to enjoy having your own place, it is something many people can only dream of.
Plasterer in the states and work with all these acrylic finishes and they all do this ,can't beat sand and cement 10 15 mm,paint looks great
Lot of apartments around marina here in portishead have this same product - so stained they now look really shabby.
Gary
We would love a picture if you are passing and have time to send us one skill-builder.uk/send
Overhang details are good to use but the joints in the stones need to be correctly jointed. If mortar bridges the drip on the underside where the stones butt up to each other then water , instead of dripping, will track back onto the render and leave streaks down the face of the property. And if the stones are say, 600mm wide, then you will have black streaks every 600 around the property. The mortar needs to be removed from the drip!
Lotus effect coating is what they need.. I forget the name of the product I've used, but I'm sure there's plenty of products on the market.
Thanks
I've had garden walls renderd in traditional sand and cement. They are pristine and smooth.. Thinking of boarding and rendering the house. What combination is best? Am I right in saying sand and cement traditional render can not be applied to cement boards. What type of modern render would. Get a smooth appearance the same as sand and cement
Render like this needs to be sealed when its clean. Parex do Paraguard, Weber and K-Rend also do their own equivalents but they're are expensive compared to other sealers. They are also water based and sit on the top of the render to give the lotus effect. They remain breathable. Usually its two coats of the stuff. My garden wall is about 27m long so I'm looking at about 50sqm. The Paraguard stuff is over £220 for 25 litres which will cover that with two coats. I suppose you could use Thomsons water seal which is cheaper or go for solvent based nonsense stuff from screwfix which soaks in.
Most copings made today do not have drips on them,sand and cement render doesn’t breath which can cause a load of other problems if the building is not ventilated properly ,monocouche renders are far better looking and you can apply sealers but as some one else comments mentioned they are costly to buy,I always explain to customers to where they may have a problem if there is no drip for the water to run of and best ways to maintain them,also just to mention sand and cement painted renders suffer from the same problem of staining.
do you have an example of any video showing how to add overhang to window sills to stop water dripping on render?
I would hire roger for all my building work. He does a proper job.
Carlos Muchos yea 3x times the going rate
Sand cement has stood the test of time and will continue to
We have this on a new extension, but we have some small damaged area, just to the right-hand side of the bottom of the door frame,it obviously needs chopping out and redoing, but to be honest, we are not exactly chuffed with the finish anyway, My question is can you re, render over the whole lot, to get a better finish,or do we have to chop[ the whole lot off and start again.I wish now i had just had normal sand cement render or even pebbledash,The builder did a good soffit so staining as yet is not a prob.any advice please.
K rendering as all still need’s drip edging,but totally agree it’s not a system you can put up and forget,every detail needs thinking about,stone course with a large over , and bang on rendering is so much better than.
I was thinking about using this stuff but I think I'll stick with the tried and tested sand / cement that I've used without any problems for the best part of 50 years. Plus it sounds a bit French so thats definitely done it for me !!!!!
Nature is all powerful and it will eventually find a way to destroy anything we build given time. The idea that this type of surface finish will remain pristine for decades is just hype.
I agree but a good eaves overhang on a building will keep it looking good for longer.
Personally I think it's small bits of coal like parts that end up staining it alot of the times you dont seem to get this issue with k-rend ft scratch back I go past a house we done about 8 years ago it still looks clean I've seen some people have started businesses out of doing soft cleaning of this type of staining
Didn’t know you can paint it very useful 👍🏼
Manufacturers like Parex, Krend, Weber recommend that you use pigment paint and sealant after rendering. E.g. Parex's DPR and Paraguard products. Which should prevent permanent staining.
To be fair they don't make a big thing about that because they are all trying to sell these through coloured monocouche renders as maintenance free. If you tell people they then have to paint them the sales would nose dive.
That is true, alot of customers have never been made aware of the aftercare products and most of them dont bother because of the prices of said products. Its alot like efflorescence on a brickwork house, an eyesore for sure but can be rectified with some choice chemicals
Architects are building nemesis. Biggest cause of building failures.
100% agree, my house is full of run offs and flat surfaces that attracts water and bird shit run off. My 5yr painted render is now looking a bit shabbym
Remove any loose and flakey. Soft wash with fungicidal. Rinse with hose. Paint with sandtex two coats.
Most people who choose this system are looking for a through coloured product that never needs painting.
Once you paint it you are locked into the decoration cycle.
I had an outside wall krend 5/6 years ago. The whole wall now goes jet black after rain. It started becoming a real problem about 12 months ago. When it dries it dries to a dirty grey lemon. I dont have a good ridge tile overhang. If I have them fitted now, ridge tiles along the ridge with an overhang. Will it help even now and should I power wash or paint. The builder will not come back to remedy! It is very upsetting.
The council did it on a row of houses in my village and it had algae growing on it within a year
0:48 You nearly sound like you know what your talking about Roger. The water run off areas are simply damp and a perfect environment for the Gloeocapsa magma algae to grow.
Seen blocks of flats that look bloody awful with this problem, really horrible, looks like black mould.
the little black bits are probably traffic pollution??
good rant ;
Well said..
And a good Educational Rant worth listening to.
Can you do a Rant on the WHITE STUFF that runs out of the brickwork on the new buildings? That's a total eyesore aswell Roger.
Are you on about efflorescence? It's mineral salts leaching out of the bricks as far as I know, does seem to be quite common on newer builds, usually it's a sign of damp on older buildings and pretty common on newly laid paving but not sure why it's so common on new builds, would guess to do with composition of the bricks
@@MrSmoore77
Is it a kind of bleach?
A chalk?
A Lyme?
A soap?
I've heard all kinds of excuses.
It's horrible and I've never found out what it is and why it's still being aloud in today's construction sites.
You don't know until a year or two later and then you notice it.
If we are on about the same thing which is white kind of crust on the surface of the bricks, then it's most likely mineral salts, but like I said before you usually only see it on brickwork where a leaky gutter or overflow pipe has been running down the wall for a while and the constant wet and drying cycle draws it out, I usually see it on certain types of paving materials and it's to be expected there when new, but why so many new builds that are apparently dry are showing it is a mystery to me, best guess is the way cheaper bricks are made these days
Monty
It is salt. I have wiped it off and tasted it. The salt is in the sand or the clay that is used to make the bricks. Eventually it will be gone but it takes a while. Never wash it off, just brush it away or let the wind do it.
Ok that's it not using this render on my house, back to traditional sand and cement for me, Thanks Roger
hello Roger you should have a look at sto render its great...... self cleaning and the colours are amazing over 600 colours and the depth of the colour is amazing ...... i love it check it out mate
Built house in busy part of town it got mono`d . 6 months and it look disgusting and needs jet wash 2x a year at least.
Worked on house a few miles down coast, that`s on a windy cliff over looking sea. House has a big overhang roof, its hasnt needed jetting in 12 years.
Both same colour.
And it cracks.
You can buy the sealer for monocouche but most renderers don’t offer it because its to expensive but all said and done you can’t beat sand/cement and cheaper
Thanks very much Roger for a very informative video. One question if I may please: you use the term 'monocouche' throughout, whereas some modern silicone renders are multi-layer (i.e. non monocouche). Do your comments apply to these multi-layer products too?
We have a small single storey extension that currently has a sand/cement render. It was probably built in the 1970's and the render is still sound but has been patched up several times over the years. We are now considering stripping off the render and replacing it. Hence the need to understand whether to stick with sand/cement or use a silicone based system.
Many thanks.
The monocouche renders may go on in two passes but it is the same products. K Rend being the best known.
Silicone is often added to the products during manufacture but they are not silicone renders. Silicone renders out of the bucket are like paint with an aggregate. It is very confusing but the thin coat silicone renders are self cleaning.
@@SkillBuilder thank you, that's helpful. I agree that there is a lot of confusion, probably not helped by the similarity of the words silica and silicone! It would be really good to have a summary table with a cross sectional views showing the structure of each main variant. (There is a 'rendervate' video comparing 'monocouche' and 'thin coat' which shows samples, which I found helpful.) Thanks again for your very informative videos. 🙂
This is without even getting onto the problem of the blockwork substrate settling and cracking and these cracks appearing in the face of the render. If this happens you can't even patch repair it as it will stick out like a sore thumb. Even if you paint it after. There's a reason why Monocouche is substantially cheaper than facing brickwork. Silicone render systems promise the world on a stick, but without careful detailed design fall victim to staining also. Plus they look like rice pudding /wood chip in anything over a 1.5mm grain size. Anything less and it shows up the basecoat shortcomings. "monocouche" translates as "one application". Nothing could be further from the truth really.
The colours fade overtime too.
So does your eyesite
sand and cement defo
I design buildings - I ALWAYS warn customers re this, especially on north facing walls. ANY protrusions - pipes, etc will do it, as will coping mortar joints which admit and release water. Not sure if its acid rain or just mould? Be v careful with a powerful jetwash on monocouche or you could damage it badly... You can repaint with a matching silicon/acrylic paint depending on which your monocouche is. Looks great, but bricks weather much better.
I think you are right about it being mould. Roger thought it was all about dirty air but black mould seems more likely.
Are algae removers effective at cleaning it well?
This might have saved me thousands. Thanks for the heads up. I noticed K render seems to be a fashionable product and that got me concerned. Problem is new products do not get tested in real world environments over years of exposure. There are also other clips of people trying to clean these stains off and it looks a nightmare.
Look at #krend tc15. Better than mono.
I believe Mono is more popular because its quicker/cheaper. can be done in 1 or 2 coats and 1 man can do bigger areas alone where as silicone you need to scratch coat, base coat, then silicone thin coat which will take atleast 2 men on bigger gabels and stuff.
Thanks Moosh. I have had this job done now with traditional sand and cement.
Is K rend the same 🤔
@@liamdohertycooee1801 I don’t know pal.
Some of the buildings down my way (Swansea) look horrendous. I was asked to clean one of these recently and I used a biocide with a long reach window cleaning pole and brush. Unfortunately it has made very little difference after a couple of weeks and the render still has the black and red stains. I went back to the manufacturer and asked if I could use a weak mix of sodium hypochlorite but they advised against it, then they recommended one of their products (and when I checked the data sheet it was basically hypochlorite in a gel form), so that's a bit confusing. Do you have any suggestions as to the best way to clean the stains off? I see other businesses near me using hypo (you can obviously smell it a mile away)
They suggested the biocide may work over time but customers want to see an instant fix (hypo), and you can't really say "I've treated it, I know it doesn't look any different now but it will look great in a few months, can you pay me please" 😅
There basically doing everything right until the finish and haven’t KPRO’D the finished job , I use K,PRO about 3 weeks after I finish the rend (dependent on weather conditions) it’s another £80 a tub which has to go on the price of he job but we’ll worth it and it means the jobs finished properly,I wouldn’t dream of saying the JOBS FINISHED without K,PRO at the end
I clean this stuff for a living. Don't tell people to hit it with a jetwash. They will destroy the substrate and find it all over the floor.
Weber says to use a jet wash on fan spray. How do you do it?
@Carlos Muchos 🤣
There are a few different options but mainly a soap and sodium hypochlorite. Or a biocide. And pressure washer where you can hit steam at very low pressure. If you hit it with a jet wash wash with no experience you will mark it like crazy.
Could you show us some examples of good practice to avoid this problem?
Sand and cement for me👍
stone fascia for me
Can I paint coloured render with normal dulux weather shield . If not ,why please.
I clean this stuff alot
When I fist used it years ago I had egsactly the same opinion. People raving about it being trouble free but it's absolute nonsense. Do make good £ for applying it tho 😂
The architects have used cappings instead of copings
I’m from Leicester and have had 9 different quotes from plasterers/renderers and not one was willing to do classic sand/cement render on my property, on top of that none of them are willing to take the old render off before applying their chosen render either meaning I’m left trying to find labourers to do the job which is proving equally as hard.
Is anyone out there that is willing to do the job? The property is roughly 150 sq meter
Lol putting that render on like a pro.. Unreal
You can paint over monocouche, in spain its on everything, its called monocapa. You just need to use a mix of PVA and water to seal the render and then you can paint,
Mate
That is a terrible idea. PVA is never used as a primer for paint. It will re-emulify when wet.
@@SkillBuilder Bruh, works perfectly well if over-painting monocapa (monocouche)
7 days after finishing. Paint with a clear silicone (special stuff) keeps it looking new for years and years
All very well but they don't tell you that when you buy it. The silicone is supposed to be in it.
They have reduced the silicone content in it. You are right. And i totally hate what monocouch becomes if silicone paint is not used. Sand and cement back in fashion
What does it become , I’ve just brought a house with this on it ?
@@grantcook5376 what does what become ?
@@grantcook5376 dirty obviously
I have a house completely krend beige and I must admit still looks good after 4 years but in winter I can see the shape of the blocks behind it , I queried this with the people who rendered the house and they said it was the blocks still drying out !My thoughts were its water penetrating the render , any thoughts would be appreciated .
It is something that happens quite a lot. A thicker coat might have helped but you are seeing the mortar lines absorbing more moisture than the blocks and then drying out. It could even be moisture migrating through from the inside.
Thankyou , just one question , where would the moisture be coming from if its migrating from inside as I don't see any moisture / damp problems inside the house , many thanks
@@markhoward5780 There is always airborne moisture in a house that is migrating through the structure as vapour. It condenses on the first cold surface it hits. That is often the inner side of the outer leaf on a block wall. The mortar is often the place it sweats through as the outside temperature picks up in the day to dry the wall out.
This vapour is often ignored but, when you look at timber frame, for example, you will see the lengths they do to in order to move it to the outside without damaging the building.
Could be a void from interior insulation to wall .this would create a condensation point
Always lime render, sand & cement is too hard and causes breathability issues in older properties. Lime render can be used over new blockwork, improves its patina with age and can self heal to a degree.
Two pennyworth from an old duffer. !!!
Have a great weekend.
Regards Tim
Yes Tim I completely agree with that sentiment but it is too slow for today's builders. They need to get the job done and get out of there.
@@SkillBuilder Yes you're right but then when they have to come back to redo, clean etc the overall time would be the same. At least you could sell it all on the front end with lime and advise it will patina therefore no call back 😀
Hope you have a great evening. Tim
@@timmargereson332 That has to be Hydraulic lime to self heal
@@MrJFoster1984 hi, I only use NHL as you would have to use OPC with hydrated lime for render.
Can I just say on the bag it actually says low maintenance not no maintenance... and with the right protection this can easily be washed away . I'm a expert ask me anything
Hi I was told this can’t happen if it’s treated with a paint on or spray on protector (I believe the protectors are water based).
DONT believe them though.
I have sprayed thousands of meters of this stuff, Roger is 100% correct
Good on raising those issues Roger! Hopefully architects watching
Sand cement render for me !!!!!
"Monocouche!" That sounds like something one might see in a dodgy French porno movie.
Not that I would know, I'm a good boy I am. Bloke down pub told me; so it must be true!
Awesome rant Rog! However I don't think it's right to criticise the Architect, because clean lines are what they are trying to achieve on the buildings you showed. For example you can't go Modernist or Art Deco and have a bunch of overhangs conflicting with the smooth lines. As regards cleaning, I have adapted a £10 window cleaning pole by wedging some bamboo in the end. I have cleaned white gutters this way that are similarly stained. If the render can be sponged cleaned it might work. I have found with the gutters you need to have a few goes at it! I get your point re maintanence but I would rather have the clean lines myself :).
ie bamboo with a sponge on the end!
Danny
There is nothing wrong with criticisng architects they have to stand up for their decisions and their decisions have to stand up for them. The fact is that the 'clean lines' are impractical with this material and when I went on the monocouche course at Weber's Academy they showed countless examples of this sort of thing and also showed how to avoid it by good design. The trouble is that they were preaching to the wrong people. We have to follow the drawing. The first thing about good design is that is has to work. If someone designs a chair with 'clean lines' that is uncomfortable to sit on it should not be considered good design.
Architect's moto "Style over substance"
Saynd n cement
I don’t think nicely pointed brickwork can be beaten.
is Monocouche a silicon render?
Aren't these supposed to be sealed within 4 weeks? but nobody bothers and hence the dreaded black algae / mould? I have a 3000sqft house thats about to be done and can't decide what to use.. S&C or Mono and Seal? a lot of render and expensive to mess up.. arrrhhhh
Why we avoided mono, silicone thin coat is better
Fellow ranter about This crap it is not compatible with the towns & cities we live in, it looks dirty within one winter. hopefully councils will start issuing some sort of cleaning orders on the building owners which in turn will make them reluctant to use the stuff.
Is K Rend the same 🤔
Stakker Humanoid prefers S&C.
Loafer prefers KFC
Take a drive around southern France, nearly every building has these stains.
Just come back from there and some of these pictures are from my trip.
@@SkillBuilder It gives buildings a really neglected appearance.