Congrats on the new PBs. One or two good runs can immediately erase 50 terrible passes it's such a good feeling.. Tips : turbo usually gives more mile per hour so if you're looking for a little bit of mph try giving yourself a few more degrees of turbo. (Unfortunately I'm not familiar with drk at all) Also so the car ends up pulling all the way to the end give yourself more turbo than you think you will need but stretch it out don't try to ram it in before the finish line this way it's feeding more and more timing even as you're going through the finish line the car will continuously pull all the way to 132ft. Sometimes people think always ramming in timing quicker is better which usually helps but in the later stages for ex. instead of running 10° for .5 sec run 15° for .8 or .9. essentially what you're doing is feeding the car Power all the way to the end but doing it slowly is a little easier on the battery also instead of trying to ram it in. My PB is a 2.05 at 74 gnss and 1.84 @ 72 Traxxas DTS. So I'm definitely not that fast compared to the big events but hopefully this will help you out man been following you since the beginning love the channel keep it up and good luck.
Thank you for all the great tips and the support!! I'd say those times you're running are close enough to be more than competitive at most events. Reaction time can make up for a couple hundredths or even a tenth if someone with a faster car is sleeping!! I'll play around with turbo some more next time out and we'll see how it goes!!
@@FullThrottleRC it's competitive at my local events here in Massachusetts I just recently got to this level there are guys a little faster than me still which is great racing with faster people keeps you on your toes because I'm trying to keep up with them always pushing the envelope.
To be honest I love to watch upgrades n just wrenching on the rigs on work bench...we all go out testing..now I will say ..to see slow motion from the rear.showing lift in take off or wheelie bar hitting if hit at all
Awesome!! Thanks for the feedback! We all know there's work to be done on the work bench but I'm never sure if that sort of stuff is interesting to other people. Thanks a bunch!
Great videos but I’d like to make a suggestion. You should think about getting rid of those ssd wheels. They’re extremely heavy and directly connected to the drivetrain. Might try some excelerate super soft tires glued on to their wheels with their foams. Not sponsored by them but I can tell you from experience they’re amazing. My Dr10m is going 1.7’s with them. Full castle system on mine. Any weight you can get off the drivetrain equates to faster acceleration. Keep grinding man!
I would absolutely agree that they're heavier than plastic wheels but I wouldn't say they're "extremely heavy". I do understand what you mean by excess weight on the drivetrain though. I think that may be something I test in an upcoming video. See how much that weight really makes a difference. Thanks for the support!!
@@FullThrottleRC I only have about 1oz total weight on the nose of mine. The rest I adjusted with springs and shock fluid. Don’t be afraid to work with the number of holes in the rear shock pistons as well. My balance is at close to 50/50 front to rear. Hope that helps!
why 50/50? I would think you need more weight on the tire with more surface area. In short a wide tire need more weight to equal the pressure to the ground. On top of that you want more pressure on the drive tire... since there is no downforce stationary - he would need to have most of his weight on or anti-squat in the rear. If 50/50 he would need to wait for weight to transfer on.
Bro I'm glad you took the advice and added the weight in the right way and balanced the car correctly. I talk to the r1 guys all the time and my dc1 is now in the 1.68 range with a 3.0t and weights around 2490. The next problem I see now is that since you are pushing more power the suspension is the weak point. Weight helps but is a bandaid for improperly tuned suspension. Go up on the fluid in the shocks to slow the transfer down. It will settle the car more and help it ride over the expansion joints better. I run 3000cst diff fluid in my car and its just as smooth as can be.
Thanks! That's another one I'm hesitant about but will probably try sooner or later. I already run 100wt oil in the rear shocks and I'm hesitant to go heavier. But that may be in the future just like the weight!!
Hey Bro great run your pickin up every time out , I was curious what are those front post your usuing ,I need to grab some for my Drag car, I like that there adjustable ? Thanks
Maybe that's something that could make a good test video. I've had some people say they work so much better without foams and some say they're too soft without foams. Could be fun to test.
I can't really give recommendations as I haven't tried a bunch of the options out there. I'm running the Maclan DRK 160 and Trinity Drag Master 3.0t currently but I know of many other combos out there that work well. Sort of have to see what you have access to and feel comfortable with or what you can get the most information on.
I've been waiting to get out to some local races here. None really close to me so I'll have to travel. I think there's a race in a couple weeks that I want to head out to.
What spur are you running? I have a Maclan 3.5t with a drk on a Beeftubes dr10 and I’m about a 2.3 on a dts system I have a 90/19. Also how many stages are you running? I’m just trying to figure out what else I can do also to get faster.
@@FullThrottleRC ok cool I use an app called gear speed just as a helper to look at final drive ratios they recommend 13-14 as a good starting point. I was running about 64mph on mine at 87/19. I’m currently only using 5 stages, and I had my punch around 80 but that’s also with prep but I noticed I was spinning about .2-.4 in the run on the datalog. I would make a recommendation of getting rc speed secrets bearing if you don’t have ceramic bearing they made a big difference in my car.
Yes absolutely, for total weight and balance, the body should be considered. I mistakenly didn't include it in this video but I know from past experience that my body keeps the same balance front and rear. Just adds weight.
Hey wats up my guy..are you able to show where you mount your receiver please 🙏🙏🙏
Sure! I'll try to cover that in my next drag racing video. It's underneath the ESC plate!
Just picked up my Fantom 9900 Mah 200c 🔋 battery. What a difference in punch. Gotta retune the chassis now.
Same with this Maclan Battery! I could tell the difference!
Good stuff man! Keep it up
Thank you!
Thanks I'm learning from you! Just got my Dr10 4 days ago. Keep up the good work!
Thanks for the support!!
I noticed you changed the connectors on the DRK battery. I just bought one for $100 but the Q8 are almost impossible to disconnect.
Yep I did. Looking back now I probably should've left it on and may go back to it in the future.
Good video.
Thanks!
Great video
Keep up the good work
Thanks!
Yes graphs would be great! I just ordered the Maclan esc from your video.
Your heading in the right direction bro!
Thanks! I think so!
Awesome video my friend killer test hits!! Great job thumbs up 👍
Thank you!!👍👍
Still loving that NASA scheme.
Hahaha thanks, I'm in love with it!! Especially bringing it back to me after a run, seeing it roll in, it just looks perfect!
Congrats on the new PBs. One or two good runs can immediately erase 50 terrible passes it's such a good feeling..
Tips : turbo usually gives more mile per hour so if you're looking for a little bit of mph try giving yourself a few more degrees of turbo. (Unfortunately I'm not familiar with drk at all)
Also so the car ends up pulling all the way to the end give yourself more turbo than you think you will need but stretch it out don't try to ram it in before the finish line this way it's feeding more and more timing even as you're going through the finish line the car will continuously pull all the way to 132ft. Sometimes people think always ramming in timing quicker is better which usually helps but in the later stages for ex. instead of running 10° for .5 sec run 15° for .8 or .9. essentially what you're doing is feeding the car Power all the way to the end but doing it slowly is a little easier on the battery also instead of trying to ram it in.
My PB is a 2.05 at 74 gnss and 1.84 @ 72 Traxxas DTS. So I'm definitely not that fast compared to the big events but hopefully this will help you out man been following you since the beginning love the channel keep it up and good luck.
Thank you for all the great tips and the support!! I'd say those times you're running are close enough to be more than competitive at most events. Reaction time can make up for a couple hundredths or even a tenth if someone with a faster car is sleeping!! I'll play around with turbo some more next time out and we'll see how it goes!!
@@FullThrottleRC it's competitive at my local events here in Massachusetts I just recently got to this level there are guys a little faster than me still which is great racing with faster people keeps you on your toes because I'm trying to keep up with them always pushing the envelope.
I just purchased that battery recently. I have yet to try it. I'm glad it's working out for you, love the content!
Thanks!! I searched around and settled on this battery with the output and the price. So far it's working well!!
To be honest I love to watch upgrades n just wrenching on the rigs on work bench...we all go out testing..now I will say ..to see slow motion from the rear.showing lift in take off or wheelie bar hitting if hit at all
Awesome!! Thanks for the feedback! We all know there's work to be done on the work bench but I'm never sure if that sort of stuff is interesting to other people. Thanks a bunch!
Would the Maclan 10000mah battery fit in there? Would add more weight
I'm not sure. I actually didn't see a 10000mah when I ordered this one. I agree, it would add a little more weight.
Great videos but I’d like to make a suggestion. You should think about getting rid of those ssd wheels. They’re extremely heavy and directly connected to the drivetrain. Might try some excelerate super soft tires glued on to their wheels with their foams. Not sponsored by them but I can tell you from experience they’re amazing. My Dr10m is going 1.7’s with them. Full castle system on mine. Any weight you can get off the drivetrain equates to faster acceleration. Keep grinding man!
I would absolutely agree that they're heavier than plastic wheels but I wouldn't say they're "extremely heavy". I do understand what you mean by excess weight on the drivetrain though. I think that may be something I test in an upcoming video. See how much that weight really makes a difference. Thanks for the support!!
@@FullThrottleRC I only have about 1oz total weight on the nose of mine. The rest I adjusted with springs and shock fluid. Don’t be afraid to work with the number of holes in the rear shock pistons as well. My balance is at close to 50/50 front to rear. Hope that helps!
@@chrishowell2113 Close to 50/50 with only 1 oz of weight on the front? That's pretty impressive! Thanks for the tips!
You want to try and get 50/50 front to rear weight bias, good video and test hits. 💯👍🏾 congrats on the new pb…
Yep, that would be ideal! I need to see how much more weight I can put up front before it becomes too much.
why 50/50?
I would think you need more weight on the tire with more surface area. In short a wide tire need more weight to equal the pressure to the ground. On top of that you want more pressure on the drive tire... since there is no downforce stationary - he would need to have most of his weight on or anti-squat in the rear. If 50/50 he would need to wait for weight to transfer on.
What size spur gear?
84
@@FullThrottleRC thanks
Sweet man! My tekin rs pro just died pretty similar to yours :/
Ooooff. I really wish that ESC had a fan on it. Could've helped keep some of the temps down.
@@FullThrottleRC what was showing up on yours? Can I pm you on insta?
Bro I'm glad you took the advice and added the weight in the right way and balanced the car correctly. I talk to the r1 guys all the time and my dc1 is now in the 1.68 range with a 3.0t and weights around 2490. The next problem I see now is that since you are pushing more power the suspension is the weak point. Weight helps but is a bandaid for improperly tuned suspension. Go up on the fluid in the shocks to slow the transfer down. It will settle the car more and help it ride over the expansion joints better. I run 3000cst diff fluid in my car and its just as smooth as can be.
Thanks! That's another one I'm hesitant about but will probably try sooner or later. I already run 100wt oil in the rear shocks and I'm hesitant to go heavier. But that may be in the future just like the weight!!
Hey Bro great run your pickin up every time out , I was curious what are those front post your usuing ,I need to grab some for my Drag car, I like that there adjustable ? Thanks
Thanks!! They're the stock post that come with the DR10M. I'm really liking the adjustability too.
@@FullThrottleRC I wasn't sure but thought that might be the case , ok cool man Thanks ....
If those are Axis 20's I don't recommend taking the foams out same goes for blue reactions they are too soft to be run without air or foam
Maybe that's something that could make a good test video. I've had some people say they work so much better without foams and some say they're too soft without foams. Could be fun to test.
I’m going to build the dr10m, I’m sure you’ve mentioned it in a previous video, but what motor and esc do you recommend?
I can't really give recommendations as I haven't tried a bunch of the options out there. I'm running the Maclan DRK 160 and Trinity Drag Master 3.0t currently but I know of many other combos out there that work well. Sort of have to see what you have access to and feel comfortable with or what you can get the most information on.
Do you enter any racing
I've been waiting to get out to some local races here. None really close to me so I'll have to travel. I think there's a race in a couple weeks that I want to head out to.
@@FullThrottleRC thanks
I know how you feel regarding the weather. Its been non stop rain where i live.
Even the day I was finally able to film some test hits, it still rained!!
If you're trying to keep weight forward - less kick-up angle stops weight from transferring to the rear.
What spur are you running? I have a Maclan 3.5t with a drk on a Beeftubes dr10 and I’m about a 2.3 on a dts system I have a 90/19. Also how many stages are you running? I’m just trying to figure out what else I can do also to get faster.
I run a 84t spur, nothing fancy. I'm maxing out at 100% on the 6th stage right now.
@@FullThrottleRC ok cool I use an app called gear speed just as a helper to look at final drive ratios they recommend 13-14 as a good starting point. I was running about 64mph on mine at 87/19. I’m currently only using 5 stages, and I had my punch around 80 but that’s also with prep but I noticed I was spinning about .2-.4 in the run on the datalog. I would make a recommendation of getting rc speed secrets bearing if you don’t have ceramic bearing they made a big difference in my car.
What motor and esc ? And what pinion are you using ?
Maclan DRK, Trinity Drag Master 3.5t, and currently at 21t on the pinion.
Body should be taken into consideration too, no? I weight my car with everything on it as if I'd be making a pass, body clips and all.
Yes absolutely, for total weight and balance, the body should be considered. I mistakenly didn't include it in this video but I know from past experience that my body keeps the same balance front and rear. Just adds weight.