Hey Chris, just a quick suggestion for sound deadening on those aluminum panels. They are thin so they will resonate sound A LOT. You could cover every possible panel with killmat, dynamat, etc. It’s already going to be loud so maybe this will help a bunch. I did this with a side by side of mine and it helped a ton. Don’t worry about how long it takes man, we enjoy projects that take several months or even years. I enjoy build videos more than the test ride videos, personally. This is my favorite project of yours yet, especially because you added doors like the chat suggested. Thank you!
You don't actually have to cover the entire panel. In most cases a piece stuck in the middle of the panel will kill it's resonance. Look Inside a car door and you will see odd chunks of foam or matt material stuck in places. They've done the research to figure out exactly where and how much it takes at a minimum to save money. Sometimes even heavy felt will do the trick.
@@jasonbirch1182 That’s correct, good point. I’d still cover every accessible panel to block sound pass through as well. All the steel and aluminum in these builds make for such a loud racket , I think the extra sound deadening would be a good idea. They’ve also reduced much of the weight in these sheets now, so that’s less of a concern. Still, good points.
We would if we could afford it, most money comes from generational wealth these days. The average home with a garage big enough to do this kind of stuff can range from 180k-500k(based on where you live) and most jobs these days aren’t even paying their staff a living wage through inflation
If you use Steel tubing for the coolant lines along the chain area there won't be a leak if the chain hits 1 a bit.Rubber lines are too easy to puncture compared to them.Awesome work so far Chris.I think it would be great to ride in.
I really like the way you build the front axle disconnect. Are you going use a rotating vertical tube (similar to the one at the engagement point) to transfer the push-pull of the shifter to the side-to-side required by the axle? The bonus would be that you can adjust the lengths of the lever arms to change the effective ratio and balance how much throw is required to engage 4wd for whatever length (and throw) shifter you decide to use. Then it's a simple thing to do a small tube with heim joints to get the final connection, which can tuck to the side of the tunnel and not get in the way of the chain.
Mr rich guy with the rivnuts for the side panels 😂 could’ve saved some coin if you drilled and tapped the tabs, in the tubing I’d definitely run them though. Plexi is a cool idea for the mid section, you could even run a indicator light inside the tunnel that changes colour depending on 2wd or 4wd selection, a 1w led would be ample, and a micro switch on the selector lever would be easy enough to set up,
use Polycarbonate (Lexan) it can take a chain impact, Acrylic (Plexiglass) is very brittle, you can beat 3/8 Polycarbonate with a hammer and get just spiderweb cracks
Chris, what about using a mountain bike shock as a chain tensioner , you could adjust the spring tension softer or harder, the chain could flex but only if the shock tension allowed it to, would give a little flex but also allow the chain to be tight/tighter , could use a F1 car style front shock type setup, laydown shock with a pivot arm to keep everything low profile
I think just adding a small viewing window for the 4wd chain would be something cool to add. I wouldn't do anything super big for safety reasons and a little addition would be to add a small light to see inside it haha.
If you do the plexiglass Tunnel cover just for extra safety I would put a honey comb or diamond cut sheet metal over it In case the chain ever breaks if it bust the plexiglass then it prevents the shards from whipping out at you and also the chain from fully coming through. Since that chain is so heavy it'll have a lot of mass and moment and could cause a lot of physical harm. That or make a secure peek-a-boo cover to be able to inspect it and that can be secured.
There she is , I knew you were hiding it around there somewhere. Such a sweet build. I just love your design & fab style . I’ll say it again, your best build to date .
the lines on the sprocket portion of the skid plate turned out great, and im glad you put some tubing on either side too. i also really like the idea of using plexiglass over the main tunnel to see the chain. it will look cool and you can verify it didnt snap or anything
Not plexiglass. Lexan or polycarbonate. Plexiglass is acrylic and will still shatter and throw sharp crap. If that chain chain lets go it's going to be a big shot.
Those blocks of Teflon are neat. You can take a card sized bit a few mm thick, and sharpen one end like a knife, and you can use it to remove "warranty void" indicator stickers in such a way that they can be re-applied.
Keep up the good work! I have a built race Yamaha Rhino with an 08 R1 in it. Definitely thinking about digging it out and working on it. In terms of coolant lines in the tunnel, run steel or aluminum tubing for it. I personally have steel pipes that I had powder coated and haven’t had any issues with rust inside or out. I have an aluminum Honda Civic eBay radiator up front and engine in rear. Rubber coolant hose from radiator to steel pipe, then from pipe to motor has a small hose. That way it’s flexible where it needs to be, and strong where it won’t get torn or damaged as easily. Looking forward to more videos!
My fav is rivet nuts with button heads - don't care on SAE or M bolts got both these days. (M5 or M6 boxes) As always just enjoying your work and creativity - saw this weekend crazy people using button heads on rim tapped in as decoration boat trailer rims - waisted away in Margaritaville I think.. Like the Plexi idea for the tunnel.. IDEA: I haven't found them recently - there are free wheeling hubs that are designed on an eccentric with roller pins. Couple your engage disengage hub design and total control. The design is with the eccentric they don't engage until the wheel begins to stall and gives a back feed to the roll on the rollers to bite on the outside hub for both wheel and drive power supply. No Differential needed as the solid axel design spin allows the fast free wheel on the opposite side of the drive power to roll. So never a differential ever needed as it can free wheel as needed. the ones I recall were like 40 hp rated per hub they had higher rated ones but what I was looking to design back then I had 2 axels so my 50 hp motor was no where near the the 2- 40 hp pull rating when 2 other were free wheeling as a differential action. 80hp was the actual max one could get on the drive side of 2 wheels on inside type turning. I wish they were on this ATV I have because of the bite of the wide tires on tar is sketchy as it likes to lunge with that wheel hope jump steer issue. Like I said been looking once again. new of them back in the late 1990s/2000s. Keep up the great design work builds
TIP: Big round balers use big black neoprene blocks for chain lash, check them out might make your long chain run easier to manage. (New Holland I know uses them on the br7090)
8:34 yeah, you can. Buy round teflon, machine it like a skate wheel (abec bearings and all that) and make a groove for the chain to ride in with chamfered edges (to end up like an old timey thread bobbin like our grandmas used to have back in the day before paper bobbins). That's going to keep the chain riding proper and be quiet. IF you don't mind making these wheels every one in a while, just get an actual skateboard wheel, something with a low durometer like a longboard wheel and machine those and you'll have to swap them every once in a while. And yes, teflon is the best commercially available material for chain guides you can get. Good stuff.
If you can run hard tubing for the cooling system and keep the rubber hoses short for the best flow possible. It should also help with if the chain comes off from loosing cooling.
If your chain tunnel ends up making to much noise from it being enclosed you might want to get some cheapo spray in bedliner to quiet it up. just a quick spray on the inside panels alone should quiet it up
Safety Moment: Heating up Teflon too much (like welding next to it) will cause it to break down and release fumes that will cause polymer fume fever, or Teflon Flu. The fumes rapidly kill parrots, and aren't good for you, either. Another safety tip: Get some activated charcoal cartridges for your respirator. They probably don't work on the Teflon fumes, but they filter a lot of other nasty stuff.
Again great work and videos Just a thought why don't you put a winch at the back of your shop just to help pull your projects in cause it looks like a job Plexie glass to see chain not a great call in my mind as chain will be oily it going to make a mess Just my thoughts
Is that rear brake caliper enough for the back? What if you’re on a steep hill and you break a chain are the front brakes gonna stop it? I’m not criticizing I’m just curious
Plus will he be able to stop the car at all without breaking the chain? The mass of the car at speed will be putting strain on that chain every time he uses the brakes.
If those chain guides don't work out, Murtfeldt makes long enclosed roller chain guides. Stainless steel lined with polyethylene, shaped exactly like your chain.. Your chain would run silky smooth, and without a lot of noise..
Nice job on everything man amazing work as always. If i had to make 1 suggestion it would b to ad a sheet of dynamat to the inside of the tunnel panels an that will stop them from rattling like a empty tin can. Other then that love it.
I really like your videos!! I've been subscribing for many years now. I think I've seen pretty all of your videos. Keep up with the good work! I'm from Sweden by the way.👍👍👍
Would've gone with a pex, thick wall tube for chain guides, but those work too, just a bit more work. I've used pex tube in the past, and if you flare the ends, they work great, very little wear long term. My brother has a sprayer and we decided that rotating heads are far more efficient, so there's about 20 meters of chain run through pex tube with a 5mm wall thickness up and back down the arms, feeding each of the rotating heads (cheaper than individual motors).
Nice work! Id guess that last rough ride in the mini-bouncer was motivation to finish the glide ride trophy truck!! Lol keep it coming can't wait to see how it does on the trail
Should consider adding some rubber or weather cushion between the metal plates and the tubing to avoid excessive rattling noise from the engine and trains.
Don't use plexiglass. Use Lexan (polycarbonate) instead. Plexiglass will crack from stress fracture too easily. Polycarb is much less prone to cracking. It costs more, but well worth it.
Front lower chain guide is going to have ALL of the force from the front wheels. Maybe replace it with a sprocket and bearing to handle the load 🤷🏻♂️🤷🏻♂️🤷🏻♂️🤷🏻♂️🤷🏻♂️
that bottom chain guide just behind the sproket is going to get chewed up pretty quick because there will be a lot of chain tension on that location while in drive
Hey bro I have to say your creations are awesome however from what I can see the position of the rear brake caliper it is gonna be one heck of a bugger to bleed cause the brake line inlet is higher than the bleed screw but I could be wrong and if I may make a suggestion for the radiator hoses make an inner tunnel beside or above the chain but however you choose is cool and thank you for sharing your creations with us
Wouldn't be a Sunday afternoon without a great segment from you Chris. Amazing work in my opinion.
Hey Chris, just a quick suggestion for sound deadening on those aluminum panels. They are thin so they will resonate sound A LOT. You could cover every possible panel with killmat, dynamat, etc.
It’s already going to be loud so maybe this will help a bunch. I did this with a side by side of mine and it helped a ton.
Don’t worry about how long it takes man, we enjoy projects that take several months or even years. I enjoy build videos more than the test ride videos, personally. This is my favorite project of yours yet, especially because you added doors like the chat suggested. Thank you!
Agree , agree & agree . I think that sound dampening Matt will help a lot .
You don't actually have to cover the entire panel. In most cases a piece stuck in the middle of the panel will kill it's resonance. Look Inside a car door and you will see odd chunks of foam or matt material stuck in places. They've done the research to figure out exactly where and how much it takes at a minimum to save money. Sometimes even heavy felt will do the trick.
@@jasonbirch1182 That’s correct, good point.
I’d still cover every accessible panel to block sound pass through as well. All the steel and aluminum in these builds make for such a loud racket , I think the extra sound deadening would be a good idea. They’ve also reduced much of the weight in these sheets now, so that’s less of a concern.
Still, good points.
Looking great. Don’t do acrylic for the chain tunnel, do lexan. It won’t shatter and explode if the chain comes loose and hits it.
Yes exactly what I was going to say. Polycarbonate not acrylic. Plexiglass is acrylic, lexan is polycarbonate. Very different materials.
We need more people with creativity like this guy to just go and make the coolest homemade stuff ever 🔥💯🇺🇸
We would if we could afford it, most money comes from generational wealth these days. The average home with a garage big enough to do this kind of stuff can range from 180k-500k(based on where you live) and most jobs these days aren’t even paying their staff a living wage through inflation
@relese_thebeast7299 my point brother. Especially in this market almost nothing will cost you a fortune
We are at WingsWorld 👀 I do want to get into some go kart stuff like this at some point
In today's day and age social is designed for one to fail miserably and not succeed in achieving our full potential.
Bot comments
7:40 so impressive.. came a long way since lifted go kart.
One of the most satisfying makers to watch on the platform, fast pace, chirugical precision, love all the projects, thanks !
If you use Steel tubing for the coolant lines along the chain area there won't be a leak if the chain hits 1 a bit.Rubber lines are too easy to puncture compared to them.Awesome work so far Chris.I think it would be great to ride in.
cool. Exactly what I thought when Chris mentioned the lines. I was wondering if that would work. Should.
I really like the way you build the front axle disconnect. Are you going use a rotating vertical tube (similar to the one at the engagement point) to transfer the push-pull of the shifter to the side-to-side required by the axle? The bonus would be that you can adjust the lengths of the lever arms to change the effective ratio and balance how much throw is required to engage 4wd for whatever length (and throw) shifter you decide to use.
Then it's a simple thing to do a small tube with heim joints to get the final connection, which can tuck to the side of the tunnel and not get in the way of the chain.
You could mount the teflon runners with a thin piece of rubber mat between them and the steel. Would quieten them further 👍👍
I love this build
I’m not sure anything will stop this thing from sounding like a chainsaw… and I love it for this exact reason! 😂
@@briankuhn7396 I'm pretty sure the sound of the engine will change your tune
Mr rich guy with the rivnuts for the side panels 😂 could’ve saved some coin if you drilled and tapped the tabs, in the tubing I’d definitely run them though.
Plexi is a cool idea for the mid section, you could even run a indicator light inside the tunnel that changes colour depending on 2wd or 4wd selection, a 1w led would be ample, and a micro switch on the selector lever would be easy enough to set up,
Please keep building 🙏. I watch you all the time. Can't wait to see this thing go down the lanes ❤👍
I'm with you. I'm disappointed every time he takes a break from this project.
One of the best fab guys on TH-cam.
Amazing work Chris, enjoy watching your top notch fabrication work.
I just want to point out how much of a beast you are on the lathe 🤔...... Keep up the hard work Chris
Hugely satisfying. Don't know if the cap head bolts securing the skid plates are permanent or not, but I'd use button head ones.
My sunday routine continues! 👌👌
use Polycarbonate (Lexan) it can take a chain impact, Acrylic (Plexiglass) is very brittle, you can beat 3/8 Polycarbonate with a hammer and get just spiderweb cracks
Chris, what about using a mountain bike shock as a chain tensioner , you could adjust the spring tension softer or harder, the chain could flex but only if the shock tension allowed it to, would give a little flex but also allow the chain to be tight/tighter , could use a F1 car style front shock type setup, laydown shock with a pivot arm to keep everything low profile
You sure have come along way young man… 600K followers 😮
You rock. I remember back when it was 8K. Outstanding job. 🎉
I think just adding a small viewing window for the 4wd chain would be something cool to add. I wouldn't do anything super big for safety reasons and a little addition would be to add a small light to see inside it haha.
Wild to see the projects grow in size from the Grave Ninja to this.
This is the build I'm impatiently waiting for...I'm hoping you'll stick with it until completion.
If you do the plexiglass Tunnel cover just for extra safety I would put a honey comb or diamond cut sheet metal over it In case the chain ever breaks if it bust the plexiglass then it prevents the shards from whipping out at you and also the chain from fully coming through. Since that chain is so heavy it'll have a lot of mass and moment and could cause a lot of physical harm. That or make a secure peek-a-boo cover to be able to inspect it and that can be secured.
There she is , I knew you were hiding it around there somewhere. Such a sweet build. I just love your design & fab style . I’ll say it again, your best build to date .
man the quality of the your builds are insane you don't take any short cuts
the lines on the sprocket portion of the skid plate turned out great, and im glad you put some tubing on either side too. i also really like the idea of using plexiglass over the main tunnel to see the chain. it will look cool and you can verify it didnt snap or anything
Not plexiglass. Lexan or polycarbonate. Plexiglass is acrylic and will still shatter and throw sharp crap. If that chain chain lets go it's going to be a big shot.
Those blocks of Teflon are neat. You can take a card sized bit a few mm thick, and sharpen one end like a knife, and you can use it to remove "warranty void" indicator stickers in such a way that they can be re-applied.
Approved!
That's a neat trick! Didn't they recently decide that those stickers are unenforceable (at least in the US?)
@@piratius That sounds familiar, but I don't know. "Right to repair" laws are all over the place.
good work young man its becoming a hell of a machine be great to see it running
Quality Craftmanship & Skills as always. Well done 👏
That thing is a FN work of art seriously ✔️
To help prevent the chain from snapping add some rubber dampers to the drive system.
The donuts used on car drive shafts should do the trick.
Awesome to see you bacon the truck can't wait to see the first test run 👍👍
Looking Awesome!! Might want to drill a drain hole in the skid plate so it won’t hold water..
This thing is getting awesome. I was on the fence about the chain drive but I'm coming around.
Things sick hope he gets this one powder coated all that work into it … it sure deserves it
I'm excited to see how this turns out.
Keep up the good work! I have a built race Yamaha Rhino with an 08 R1 in it. Definitely thinking about digging it out and working on it. In terms of coolant lines in the tunnel, run steel or aluminum tubing for it. I personally have steel pipes that I had powder coated and haven’t had any issues with rust inside or out. I have an aluminum Honda Civic eBay radiator up front and engine in rear. Rubber coolant hose from radiator to steel pipe, then from pipe to motor has a small hose. That way it’s flexible where it needs to be, and strong where it won’t get torn or damaged as easily. Looking forward to more videos!
Simply BRILLIANT!
Plexiglas is a very good idea Chris! 😁👍
Polycarbonate (Lexan) is much stronger and more durable to impact
My fav is rivet nuts with button heads - don't care on SAE or M bolts got both these days. (M5 or M6 boxes) As always just enjoying your work and creativity - saw this weekend crazy people using button heads on rim tapped in as decoration boat trailer rims - waisted away in Margaritaville I think.. Like the Plexi idea for the tunnel.. IDEA: I haven't found them recently - there are free wheeling hubs that are designed on an eccentric with roller pins. Couple your engage disengage hub design and total control. The design is with the eccentric they don't engage until the wheel begins to stall and gives a back feed to the roll on the rollers to bite on the outside hub for both wheel and drive power supply. No Differential needed as the solid axel design spin allows the fast free wheel on the opposite side of the drive power to roll. So never a differential ever needed as it can free wheel as needed. the ones I recall were like 40 hp rated per hub they had higher rated ones but what I was looking to design back then I had 2 axels so my 50 hp motor was no where near the the 2- 40 hp pull rating when 2 other were free wheeling as a differential action. 80hp was the actual max one could get on the drive side of 2 wheels on inside type turning. I wish they were on this ATV I have because of the bite of the wide tires on tar is sketchy as it likes to lunge with that wheel hope jump steer issue. Like I said been looking once again. new of them back in the late 1990s/2000s. Keep up the great design work builds
Coming together really nice Chris!
TIP: Big round balers use big black neoprene blocks for chain lash, check them out might make your long chain run easier to manage. (New Holland I know uses them on the br7090)
Awesome looking good can’t wait to see it done and moving
considering the apparent fascination I was surprized no hotdogs were being put through that teflon sleeve... LOL
8:34 yeah, you can. Buy round teflon, machine it like a skate wheel (abec bearings and all that) and make a groove for the chain to ride in with chamfered edges (to end up like an old timey thread bobbin like our grandmas used to have back in the day before paper bobbins). That's going to keep the chain riding proper and be quiet. IF you don't mind making these wheels every one in a while, just get an actual skateboard wheel, something with a low durometer like a longboard wheel and machine those and you'll have to swap them every once in a while.
And yes, teflon is the best commercially available material for chain guides you can get. Good stuff.
Good advice. I have used countless skateboard wheels as chain tensioners. I don't ever recall having to replace one..
If you can run hard tubing for the cooling system and keep the rubber hoses short for the best flow possible. It should also help with if the chain comes off from loosing cooling.
Chris you need a Bolt/Nut sponsor :) nice work, great watch
Good progress here! One of my favorite builds this year! Can't wait to see if the chain drive works or not! :)
If your chain tunnel ends up making to much noise from it being enclosed you might want to get some cheapo spray in bedliner to quiet it up. just a quick spray on the inside panels alone should quiet it up
I can't wait to see this thing rip. You should get the grindhard guys to come out and drive it. I'd love to see Ethan go full send in it.
Yeah an inspection window of sorts is definitely a good idea for the chain drive. And you probably can't have too many chain guides haha.
Can't wait to see this things first drive
Safety Moment: Heating up Teflon too much (like welding next to it) will cause it to break down and release fumes that will cause polymer fume fever, or Teflon Flu. The fumes rapidly kill parrots, and aren't good for you, either.
Another safety tip: Get some activated charcoal cartridges for your respirator. They probably don't work on the Teflon fumes, but they filter a lot of other nasty stuff.
It is looking good. just a suggestion on the bolts on the skid plates, maybe get flat head allen faseners so they dont get damaged on rocks...
This thing is going to be bad ass!!
Teflon is actually a solid lubricant 😉
You should use vacuum line and wrap the panels (to seal the panels and limit the vibration/rattle noise)
Your fabrication skills are amazing. This is going to be a sweet busax4. Can't wait to see it RIPP
Run a metal pipe up threw the chain tunnel for cooling will keep it from getting trashed if ya blow the chain
Again great work and videos
Just a thought why don't you put a winch at the back of your shop just to help pull your projects in cause it looks like a job
Plexie glass to see chain not a great call in my mind as chain will be oily it going to make a mess
Just my thoughts
Rather than use Plexiglass, I would use lexan as it has less chance of getting broken if things hit it hard
Is that rear brake caliper enough for the back? What if you’re on a steep hill and you break a chain are the front brakes gonna stop it?
I’m not criticizing I’m just curious
Plus will he be able to stop the car at all without breaking the chain? The mass of the car at speed will be putting strain on that chain every time he uses the brakes.
such a pleasure to watch.
If you are going to use plexiglass, then do the whole build with plexiglass panels. Like a 90's see through gameboy. Cool AF.
Very Cool beautiful build
If those chain guides don't work out, Murtfeldt makes long enclosed roller chain guides. Stainless steel lined with polyethylene, shaped exactly like your chain.. Your chain would run silky smooth, and without a lot of noise..
Nice job on everything man amazing work as always. If i had to make 1 suggestion it would b to ad a sheet of dynamat to the inside of the tunnel panels an that will stop them from rattling like a empty tin can. Other then that love it.
Your skid plate fit better than any manufacturer skid plate out there.. those darn things never line up!
Do the teflon pads have to be replaced? ❤
Plenty of room for a constant chain oilier!
I really like your videos!! I've been subscribing for many years now. I think I've seen pretty all of your videos. Keep up with the good work! I'm from Sweden by the way.👍👍👍
Nice progress! Love the little details on your build. Mike c
Would've gone with a pex, thick wall tube for chain guides, but those work too, just a bit more work.
I've used pex tube in the past, and if you flare the ends, they work great, very little wear long term. My brother has a sprayer and we decided that rotating heads are far more efficient, so there's about 20 meters of chain run through pex tube with a 5mm wall thickness up and back down the arms, feeding each of the rotating heads (cheaper than individual motors).
I think a spring tensioned gear would work for the chain so it could move with the suspension.
Nice work! Id guess that last rough ride in the mini-bouncer was motivation to finish the glide ride trophy truck!! Lol keep it coming can't wait to see how it does on the trail
Small block v8 ya baby ya .
Looks amazing 👊👊👊
This is so awesome. Keep it up man!
Great job
You build the coolest stuff!
Great job!!
Nice job
Should consider adding some rubber or weather cushion between the metal plates and the tubing to avoid excessive rattling noise from the engine and trains.
Chris, I want to see you build a shaft drive machine. A Vmax engine would make for a great ride.
4:44 - I would be playing w/ that the whole time and not getting anything built.... 😂
Don't use plexiglass. Use Lexan (polycarbonate) instead. Plexiglass will crack from stress fracture too easily. Polycarb is much less prone to cracking. It costs more, but well worth it.
🎯I said the same thing, you need that impact resistance of Polycarbonate
You should put skid plates under the seats also, it would keep sticks from coming through the seats.
Hitting something substantial "Right up Main Street" (to quote Deadpool) would be a guaranteed way to end a fun trail ride.
Hey man, loving this build.. just an idea, With using so many drive chains, perhaps a Scottoiler maybe a good idea for helping longevity of the chain?
Front lower chain guide is going to have ALL of the force from the front wheels. Maybe replace it with a sprocket and bearing to handle the load 🤷🏻♂️🤷🏻♂️🤷🏻♂️🤷🏻♂️🤷🏻♂️
Hello,
When I use rivet nuts in tube, I make 2 points of welding ( TIG ) , it's better ... In protection ski ;)
Sorry for my Bad english
You should run some of the chassis tube work as a hose so you do t have as much rubber hose to deal with
you should indent the panels with lines this would stop panel rattle flex making lots of sound with vibration
So since it's a chain tunnel, you should call it a Chunnel!
that bottom chain guide just behind the sproket is going to get chewed up pretty quick because there will be a lot of chain tension on that location while in drive
Nice to see you working with a real lathe when I started watching your channel you were making a homemade lathe 😂
Hey bro I have to say your creations are awesome however from what I can see the position of the rear brake caliper it is gonna be one heck of a bugger to bleed cause the brake line inlet is higher than the bleed screw but I could be wrong and if I may make a suggestion for the radiator hoses make an inner tunnel beside or above the chain but however you choose is cool and thank you for sharing your creations with us
Love it keep it up as always 💘
Loving this project. Have you thought about spring loading the tensioner?
Take your time, just keep the cameras running for us.
This guy is so talented it makes me feel stupid 😂