Thanks for the update. A few things I have learned and I will share with you. The top cut ends of your cuttings should be sealed with wax, glue or parafilm because the cuttings start to dry out. 2. Light triggers bud growth before root growth and can drain the energy from your cutting not allowing the roots to grow, it is recommended to let the roots grow before you introduce the cutting to light. Just sharing what I've learned from other more experienced growers not saying it is correct, but I just wanted to share. Thanks again
That’s the conclusion that I am drawing from this experiment. My recommendation at this point is to begin the process wrapped in paper towels to get a head start on rooting. Next year I may try fig pop. Ultimately, I’m not going to make an official call til I see how many root and survive to the spring.
As rosarians will tell you, "roots before shoots." If it is the other way around, there is a higher mortality rate. The cutting has a limited supply of energy to spend. Do not let it go to waste on buds with nothing to support them.
*Thanks for sharing that info.* This is what l love about the World Wide Web...How many people are willing to share their expertise, knowledge, wisdom or experiences for FREE. It's truly a great thing! Bringing folks 'two-gether' who would never meet or share otherwise. I have been MORE than Blessed by such things! *Much appreciation to you all~*
This morning, I have a tiny root on my Black Madeira and the other Col de Dame Noir. They were not there yesterday when I shot this video. That makes 3 out of 6 successfully rooted, and 4 out of 6 successfully budded, out of the 6 I got from Bill. I think the second Smith is on the verge of budding as well, which will make 5 out of 6. I’ll make sure to give a full report when complete.
I like that you say intents and purposes correctly and also that you’re experimenting and showing results however this is pretty logical and what I would expect to happen… Maybe you mentioned it but I got the gist of the video and have to get to bed it would be helpful if you had on the cards what your soil is and what medium you’re using for your propagation because I don’t really care about the cups or the variety as much as what you’re doing and how it’s working. Thank you for sharing this and I’m sorry that I couldn’t sit through the whole thing it’s super Duper late at night or early in the morning and your video helped me with what I needed to know -thank you!
In trying to root apple and pear cuttings the out of ground notes will sprout leaves and then leaves over a month time will die and no sign of roots or white dots . So yes I agree with you that an initial phase of darken days in the ziplock bag makes sense to me . That is why I'm getting in the figs because the root and airlayer 900% easier than fruit trees With fruit trees leaf formation doesnt .mean root formation
Correct. In fact, in the beginning, the internal nutrients of the cuttings are sustaining the tree before strong roots can form and take nutrients from the soil. So, leaves without roots will actually exhaust the internal food supply of the cutting! Leaves before roots can be a very bad thing.
some sellers of fig cuttings will have more vigorous cuttings. I feel that cuttings taken from fig trees ground in ground will be more vigorous than cuttings taken from fig trees grown in pots.
Nick Costanza I believe that. I just bought a single Col de Dame Blanc cutting off Figbid from the same seller I got my Raspberry Latte cuttings from about a month ago. The Raspberry Latte cuttings rooted immediately. All 5 of 5 rooted successfully and are ahead of my original cuttings I got a full month earlier from a nursery. I am guessing the cuttings I got from the nursery were not as fresh and they took a full month to start to wake up. By comparison, it has been 4 days and my Col de Dame Blanc cutting is already rooting in the paper towel. I love this seller on Figbid, his cuttings are awesome. I am going to have to pot it up tomorrow already!
I think your on to something with the late varieties being harder to root, come out of dormancy later. My early apple trees for instance woke up two months earlier than my late varieties. My early apples bloomed, put out leaves, set fruit and I’ve already thinned them and my late varieties are still completely dormant. Some are on the same tree, sharing the same rootstock (I grafted 30 varieties on one tree) and some are individual trees. Regardless if they are on their own rootstock or the frankentree all the varieties acted like they should, early varieties break early, late varieties break late. I would guess that the trees have slow root growth during the winter then start really growing when the leaves come out and are able to feed the roots growth. late varieties must be triggered by warmer temperatures and hours of sunlight? I can’t figure what else would contribute to them knowing when to break dormancy.
Interesting that you said smith takes a long time to root. My smith started budding leaves on day 8 and I have it outside now rooted in the shade. So about 5 weeks until ready to transplant. I think it rooted in 2 - 3 weeks. I also bought my cutting from you! Also, my i258 cutting of the same age recently budded but not much movement on that one. Maybe those root slowly.
My cuttings have been wrapped since 11-17. 3 have been up potted 3 should be up potted with in the next few day. My question is: do you clip the leaf growth while they are wrapped? My opinion is I clip them because, I want the concentration to be on creating roots not leaves.
It is a paint pen. It is specially formulated for writing on wood, plastic, glass and other surfaces like that. I have them linked in my Amazon Storefront in the video description under GARDEN ACCESSORIES. They're made by Sharpie.
I have a tutorial on how to fertilize fig cuttings here: th-cam.com/video/ghl5XkLU4d0/w-d-xo.html I acclimate the fig cuttings once they have leaves. It depends when you begin rooting. Acclimation should happen slowly. I have a video on how to do it here: th-cam.com/video/LKCfmqPkstQ/w-d-xo.html
Danny Kashou you can encourage root growth by wrapping the cuttings in damp paper towels and storing them in a plastic bag in a warm area. I didn’t have great luck with that for dormant cuttings. It works very well on greenwood cuttings that are actively growing, though.
I have only once received a cutting with wax. I did not remove it from the bottom and it was one of the few cuttings that rotted and failed for me. I’m not saying that is the reason why, but I will never do that again. I would remove it.
The Millennial Gardener , thanks for the reply. I will remove the wax tomorrow morning. I was a bit disappointed that the person from whom I bought the cuttings did not share with me about the wax. Oh well.
Susan Ang that’s tough to say. If root nodes have formed, you may permanently damage them by ripping them out. I would probably let them go at this point and not risk it, but in the future wrap them for a week or two to encourage root initial formation.
All over the place. Most are from Figbid. Some are from Harvey at Figaholics, some are from Big Bill at Off The Beaten Path Nursery, some are from people I’ve traded with over the years. I’ll have cuttings available in the winter, probably January.
@@derekhead7068 I won't have cuttings available until probably January. We haven't even had a freeze here yet and it's been in the 70's for weeks, so my season ends late. I will announce over TH-cam with a Community post and video when it's time. I will offer them over Figbid.
The Millennial Gardener my parents have a vacay home in Emerald Isle which they’ll eventually move to permanently (from central NJ). I have some cold hardy young trees, a few of which I’m thinking of planting in-ground on their EI property. Do you think they would survive year-round without cover? The soil there is quite sandy. The varieties I have are Celeste, Chicago Hardy and Marseille. I also have two unknowns, but those I think I’ll keep in containers in a shed during winters since I know so little about them.
I don't understand the logic. A wet paper towel or a moist cup. I mean unless you just don't have time to set them in the cup Immediately. I would think roots would come out faster in a warm moist place rather than a cold moist place.
Dr. Haider Bhuiyan I show you in earlier videos, like the one below: th-cam.com/video/YPhk-Dh_fXU/w-d-xo.html I have a Playlist called Figs 2019 where I detail how I rooted all my cuttings throughout the winter if you’re interested.
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Thanks for the update. A few things I have learned and I will share with you. The top cut ends of your cuttings should be sealed with wax, glue or parafilm because the cuttings start to dry out. 2. Light triggers bud growth before root growth and can drain the energy from your cutting not allowing the roots to grow, it is recommended to let the roots grow before you introduce the cutting to light. Just sharing what I've learned from other more experienced growers not saying it is correct, but I just wanted to share. Thanks again
That’s the conclusion that I am drawing from this experiment. My recommendation at this point is to begin the process wrapped in paper towels to get a head start on rooting. Next year I may try fig pop. Ultimately, I’m not going to make an official call til I see how many root and survive to the spring.
As rosarians will tell you, "roots before shoots." If it is the other way around, there is a higher mortality rate. The cutting has a limited supply of energy to spend. Do not let it go to waste on buds with nothing to support them.
*Thanks for sharing that info.*
This is what l love about the World Wide Web...How many people are willing to share their expertise, knowledge, wisdom or experiences for FREE.
It's truly a great thing! Bringing folks 'two-gether' who would never meet or share otherwise. I have been MORE than Blessed by such things! *Much appreciation to you all~*
Very interesting. I've also purchased fig trees and cuttings from off the beaten path nursery.. Awesome seller
This morning, I have a tiny root on my Black Madeira and the other Col de Dame Noir. They were not there yesterday when I shot this video. That makes 3 out of 6 successfully rooted, and 4 out of 6 successfully budded, out of the 6 I got from Bill. I think the second Smith is on the verge of budding as well, which will make 5 out of 6. I’ll make sure to give a full report when complete.
Yes I have been trying to but on his Facebook page he never seems to announce cutting sales . Just local sales at markets. I gave up .
Thanks for this good info. I just ordered my first cuttings. You DID say this could become addictive! You're good coach.
Thank you! I'm glad you think so. Best of luck with your new addiction 😂
I like that you say intents and purposes correctly and also that you’re experimenting and showing results however this is pretty logical and what I would expect to happen… Maybe you mentioned it but I got the gist of the video and have to get to bed it would be helpful if you had on the cards what your soil is and what medium you’re using for your propagation because I don’t really care about the cups or the variety as much as what you’re doing and how it’s working. Thank you for sharing this and I’m sorry that I couldn’t sit through the whole thing it’s super Duper late at night or early in the morning and your video helped me with what I needed to know -thank you!
In trying to root apple and pear cuttings the out of ground notes will sprout leaves and then leaves over a month time will die and no sign of roots or white dots . So yes I agree with you that an initial phase of darken days in the ziplock bag makes sense to me . That is why I'm getting in the figs because the root and airlayer 900% easier than fruit trees
With fruit trees leaf formation doesnt .mean root formation
Correct. In fact, in the beginning, the internal nutrients of the cuttings are sustaining the tree before strong roots can form and take nutrients from the soil. So, leaves without roots will actually exhaust the internal food supply of the cutting! Leaves before roots can be a very bad thing.
Agree with Stela
some sellers of fig cuttings will have more vigorous cuttings. I feel that cuttings taken from fig trees ground in ground will be more vigorous than cuttings taken from fig trees grown in pots.
Nick Costanza I believe that. I just bought a single Col de Dame Blanc cutting off Figbid from the same seller I got my Raspberry Latte cuttings from about a month ago. The Raspberry Latte cuttings rooted immediately. All 5 of 5 rooted successfully and are ahead of my original cuttings I got a full month earlier from a nursery. I am guessing the cuttings I got from the nursery were not as fresh and they took a full month to start to wake up. By comparison, it has been 4 days and my Col de Dame Blanc cutting is already rooting in the paper towel. I love this seller on Figbid, his cuttings are awesome. I am going to have to pot it up tomorrow already!
@@TheMillennialGardener which seller was it ?
I think your on to something with the late varieties being harder to root, come out of dormancy later. My early apple trees for instance woke up two months earlier than my late varieties. My early apples bloomed, put out leaves, set fruit and I’ve already thinned them and my late varieties are still completely dormant. Some are on the same tree, sharing the same rootstock (I grafted 30 varieties on one tree) and some are individual trees. Regardless if they are on their own rootstock or the frankentree all the varieties acted like they should, early varieties break early, late varieties break late. I would guess that the trees have slow root growth during the winter then start really growing when the leaves come out and are able to feed the roots growth. late varieties must be triggered by warmer temperatures and hours of sunlight? I can’t figure what else would contribute to them knowing when to break dormancy.
Interesting that you said smith takes a long time to root. My smith started budding leaves on day 8 and I have it outside now rooted in the shade. So about 5 weeks until ready to transplant. I think it rooted in 2 - 3 weeks. I also bought my cutting from you! Also, my i258 cutting of the same age recently budded but not much movement on that one. Maybe those root slowly.
Thank you again !
Did you wrap in wet paper towel and store in Tupperware in the fridge?
My cuttings have been wrapped since 11-17. 3 have been up potted 3 should be up potted with in the next few day. My question is: do you clip the leaf growth while they are wrapped? My opinion is I clip them because, I want the concentration to be on creating roots not leaves.
I do not remove the leaves when they bud out. If you destroy the bud, that may hurt the ability to bud again at that node.
*What kind of pen or marker did you use to mark each cutting?* Never saw such.
It is a paint pen. It is specially formulated for writing on wood, plastic, glass and other surfaces like that. I have them linked in my Amazon Storefront in the video description under GARDEN ACCESSORIES. They're made by Sharpie.
@@TheMillennialGardener
Thanks!!! 😇
Do you fertilize them when they and solo cup? And do you take them outside once potted in November ,December ,January outside for the sunlight?
I have a tutorial on how to fertilize fig cuttings here: th-cam.com/video/ghl5XkLU4d0/w-d-xo.html
I acclimate the fig cuttings once they have leaves. It depends when you begin rooting. Acclimation should happen slowly. I have a video on how to do it here: th-cam.com/video/LKCfmqPkstQ/w-d-xo.html
@@TheMillennialGardener are there any fig kinds worth getting from Italy?
what is your rooting medium?
hambonerz I go through it in detail on this video. I improved my method this year:
th-cam.com/video/ExfavYO0Qos/w-d-xo.html
What is with the paper towels? I want to know what that is and what dose it do?
Danny Kashou you can encourage root growth by wrapping the cuttings in damp paper towels and storing them in a plastic bag in a warm area. I didn’t have great luck with that for dormant cuttings. It works very well on greenwood cuttings that are actively growing, though.
I received fig cutting that have wax on both ends. Should I remove the wax that's on the bottom to help the roots? HELP!!
I have only once received a cutting with wax. I did not remove it from the bottom and it was one of the few cuttings that rotted and failed for me. I’m not saying that is the reason why, but I will never do that again. I would remove it.
The Millennial Gardener , thanks for the reply. I will remove the wax tomorrow morning.
I was a bit disappointed that the person from whom I bought the cuttings did not share with me about the wax. Oh well.
My guess is they did it as a favor to protect it from drying out in transit. Best of luck to you.
I had just put a few new cuttings into dirt for a week now. Is it too late to take them out, clean them n wrap into paper towel?
Susan Ang that’s tough to say. If root nodes have formed, you may permanently damage them by ripping them out. I would probably let them go at this point and not risk it, but in the future wrap them for a week or two to encourage root initial formation.
Where do you get your cuttings from?
Better question do you sell your cuttings?
All over the place. Most are from Figbid. Some are from Harvey at Figaholics, some are from Big Bill at Off The Beaten Path Nursery, some are from people I’ve traded with over the years. I’ll have cuttings available in the winter, probably January.
Millennial Gardener; how do we get in contact with you about purchasing cuttings?
@@derekhead7068 I won't have cuttings available until probably January. We haven't even had a freeze here yet and it's been in the 70's for weeks, so my season ends late. I will announce over TH-cam with a Community post and video when it's time. I will offer them over Figbid.
are you in pennsylvania?
I lived in the Philadelphia area for 13 years, but left a year and a half ago. I now live on the southern NC coast just southwest of Wilmington.
The Millennial Gardener my parents have a vacay home in Emerald Isle which they’ll eventually move to permanently (from central NJ). I have some cold hardy young trees, a few of which I’m thinking of planting in-ground on their EI property. Do you think they would survive year-round without cover? The soil there is quite sandy. The varieties I have are Celeste, Chicago Hardy and Marseille. I also have two unknowns, but those I think I’ll keep in containers in a shed during winters since I know so little about them.
I don't understand the logic. A wet paper towel or a moist cup. I mean unless you just don't have time to set them in the cup Immediately. I would think roots would come out faster in a warm moist place rather than a cold moist place.
Why don't you show how you rap up the cutting with a white paper towel?
Dr. Haider Bhuiyan I show you in earlier videos, like the one below:
th-cam.com/video/YPhk-Dh_fXU/w-d-xo.html
I have a Playlist called Figs 2019 where I detail how I rooted all my cuttings throughout the winter if you’re interested.