My Service and Procedure Book- www.acservicetech.com/the-book Tool List- www.amazon.com/shop/acservicetech Support the Channel- www.patreon.com/acservicetech For those that are looking for the tools used in the videos: (Linked Below) Air Acetylene Torch Setup- amzn.to/2aQalsb 15% Silver Brazing Rods- amzn.to/2gVLyLc Nitrogen Regulator- amzn.to/2bXdR5f Nitrogen Flow Meter- amzn.to/2brvoBg NitroVue Flow Reg- amzn.to/2MiulYv Ameriflame Oxy Acetylene Torch Setup- amzn.to/2SRm3JF #2 Tip for Oxy Acetylene Torch- amzn.to/2SPDaeD Cap-N-Hook Tip for Oxy Acetylene- amzn.to/2MbhpUk Manual Copper Tube Swage/Expander- amzn.to/2WRPa1M Uniweld Hydraulic Swaging Tool- amzn.to/2MlrI8m Uniweld Swage and Flare Kit- amzn.to/2T55jyn Ultrasonic Leak Detector- amzn.to/2Lw4Zpr Appion Valve Core Removal Tool- amzn.to/2uYr8WL Fieldpiece MR45 Recovery Machine- amzn.to/2xAOpN6 RectorSeal Bubble Gas Leak Detector amzn.to/2ckWACn Pack of 25 C&D valve cores- amzn.to/2J1lurm C&D Valve Core Wrench, Container, and 3 valve cores- amzn.to/2EVGkps Filter drier for Recovery Machine- amzn.to/2veVV3m Here is the link to the Yellow Jacket 1/4" by 1/4" heavy duty hose straight- amzn.to/2umtcod Blue Vapor Yellow Jacket Gauge- amzn.to/2Ju7pan Red Liquid Yellow Jacket Gauge- amzn.to/2sSFmGH Quick Coupler for the Gauges- amzn.to/2sTk8Ze JB Test Gauge High Side- amzn.to/2ruQb0l JB Test Gauge Low Side- amzn.to/2qR0utM UEI DL479 Multimeter with temp sensor amzn.to/2jtsUbJ Magnet Jumpers- amzn.to/2PyKPQZ Alligator Jumpers- amzn.to/2PxqJXn Fieldpiece ST4 Dual Temp Meter amzn.to/2wc1ME3 Fieldpiece Bead K Type Temp Sensor amzn.to/2DBwKfs Fieldpiece Wet Bulb Temp Sensor amzn.to/2RRI7Tw Fieldpiece TC24 Temp Clamp amzn.to/2qHLyjZ Yellow Jacket Refrigerant Gauge Set amzn.to/2aenwTq Refrigerant hoses with valves amzn.to/2aBumVI Yellow Jacket Gauge set & hoses amzn.to/2vLVkV9 Yellow Jacket 4 Port Manifold w Hoses amzn.to/2BkuGIq FieldpieceSMAN360 Digital Manifold Set amzn.to/2BdoaD4 FieldpieceSMAN460 Digital Manifold Set amzn.to/2nB4Fe6 Compact Ball Valve for Refrigerant Hose amzn.to/2KUisW8 QuickDisconnect 90 for refrigerant hose amzn.to/2MMtVcg JB 6 CFM Vacuum Pump amzn.to/2nqbvo8 Appion Blue 3/8" to 1/4" Vacuum Hose amzn.to/2uYlVyc Appion Red 3/8" to 1/4" Vacuum Hose amzn.to/2uYg6Ro Appion Valve Core Removal Tool amzn.to/2uYr8WL Yellow Jacket 1/4" by 1/4" hose amzn.to/2umtcod CPS Vacuum Micron Gauge amzn.to/2v1nM3O Supco Vacuum Micron Gauge amzn.to/2v1JRiA RectorSeal Bubble Gas Leak Detector amzn.to/2ckWACn UEI DL389 Multimeter amzn.to/2xAdaJf Other tool links can be found in the video description section. Shop through Amazon! Your Purchases through Amazon provide a means for channels such as mine to earn advertising fees from all purchases after clicking through. Prices are the same as normal- www.amazon.com/shop/acservicetech
You have a error in your book. On page 12 fig 2-2. In the legend for dark red it says high pressure, low temperature. It should say high pressure, high temperature. Because P and T are tied together. If one goes up the other will follow.
I always use nitrogen to braze. It amazes me how many technicians refuse to use it. I always hear them say “ I never used it back in the day and I don’t now” or “ that takes too much time”
Some people are terrible at welding and really burn the crap out of the pipe trying to get the weld to take, usually using bad welding wire, if the outside of the pipe is nasty looking the inside will look the same, the welds he just did looked fine with a minimum amount of heat.
AC Service Tech LLC hey I really find your videos so informing and a lot of info . I’m just starting out in the field and this question is different from this video but how do I know what pressure is good or bad or undercharged or overcharged ? When I hook up my gauges on the system and get the reading pressures how do I find the information ??
Why not make sure that you are truly saved by Jesus Christ and practice this way. Remorsefully confess with your heart your sins to Jesus Christ who is God and tell Him that you right now are repenting of your sins and you want to be born again of the Spirit from above. Tell Jesus that you are remorsefully sorry for breaking His commandments and that you are begging for forgiveness from Him. Allow His blood from the cross to wash away your sins. After this is done with your heart successfully the Holy Spirit will come to live within you and He will rebuild you from the inside out. Look for signs that you are saved. Things like spreading the good news from Jesus, getting other people saved, a craving for the word of God, reading the Bible, etc… These things are known as a calling and fruit bearing. If you're not bearing fruit then keep doing it. Sometimes it takes time to get saved. Read Matthew chapter 13 from the King James Bible. God bless!!!!!
Refrigerant Filled Tubing is making crackling noise inside in my garage next to HVAC unit. We can also hear crackling noise outside next to compressor unit. What is the cause? It constantly making noise regardless if AC is not on/off or furnace heater is on/off. Very strange. Maybe coolant in the pipes or moisture, metal contracting due to cool air?
It's low on refrigerant, probably. The smaller line should be flowing liquid refrigerant and if listened to should sound like a steady flow. However, if the system is low there can be vapor entrained in the liquid and it will make a gurgling sound as it travels through the liquid line with the entrained vapor bubbles.
I'm curious about something; Why don't the manufacturers use something like flare fittings to make these connections? It seems like it would make for a much less complicated installation.
@@pizzle1011 Hey Boffin and piz11, brazing has the least chance of leaks occurring in the future but some units in the past did have flare fittings. Like piz11 said, many mini split units have them to make them easier to install. I also believe the manufacturers don't want oxidation in the lines and possibly don't trust techs to always flow nitrogen through when brazing, thanks!
@@acservicetechchannel thanks for your videos. For someone who took classes 20 years ago and wasn't able to do the trade then and now starting up my own side business your videos have been a great resource! Keep up the great work
Hello ,you do it WRONG, dont put the wet rag on hot copper line ,creates a black junk inside the copper pipe, second ,why dont you put a water inside service line ,it keeps cool while you brazing. putting a wet rag on top of the service valve while brazing it , creates a vapor which can turn of the flame. NO OFFENCE. thank you
Hey Jores, I know some put water inside the top of the service valve but I keep it cool with the rag on the outside. I don't want to risk getting water into the inside of the service valve as the valve is rotated upward to open it. It will not create any carbon residue or oxidation on the inside of the tubing when putting a rag on the outside of the hot braze joint. We wait until the braze solidifies and then we need to cool it down to reduce the amount of time the heat is on the service valve. This will not negatively affect the braze joint as long as you give it time to solidify, thanks
Ideally you want to braze from the bottom up. Start at the 6 o'clock position and braze in a clockwise direction until you reach the 12 o'clock position at which point you go back to the 6 o'clock position and braze counterclockwise back up to 12 o'clock position. Once completed, be sure to cap your joint and you should never have to worry about a leak from that connection.
@@landonj16 cap as in cap off the joint with a second covering bead of brazing allow. Basically a second pass over the first one to ensure the joint has no leaks. You should still confirm the system is leak free after you're done brazing by doing a standing pressure test with dry nitrogen.
@@mikekin5806 Hey buddy I'm a new HVAC Tech. You seem to know your stuff, quick question. You can run nitrogen as you're brazing, and you need a outlet somewhere for the nitrogen to leave the system, so you don't build up nitrogen pressure is that correct?
@@lex6794 correct. Typically one would use a Nitrogen regulator with a flow meter to allow for a gentle flow of Nitrogen to pass through the system while brazing.
Why do they not use mechanical connections? And maybe a stupid question but I've been in Automotive my whole life and the last place you find a leak or problems is in the mechanic's connections under the hood
I repair househould appliances and fridges too, so procedure is same when changing compressor and filling gas, but I just wonder... Any special reason why you do not use borax? I use it all the time and it produces wonderful result of faster brazing (faster joining botch copper pieces together) as much cleaner joint. But maybe I am doing something wrong with using borax and I do not know?
I think you are talking about using borax as a flux for copper sweating for silver soldering. This video was on brazing without any additional flux. This way no acid is left in the copper tubing to mix with the refrigerant oil after refrigerant is in the tube, thanks!
Great videos.. not been practicing my hvac skills for Over 3 years..different job in our company,, now I'm back at it again..been rusty for 3 years Doing non hvac work.great to see this videos very good content..
You can flow nitrogen through either usually on ac systems. Make sure to keep the bulb cool or remove the bulb from the vapor line while brazing. I have a video on that in the brazing playlist, thanks!
Just keep the heat off the service valve, Always on the pipes with the flame facing outward not Inward toward the service valves, Wet rag Ok but not needed at those OD diameters, Nitrogen is Always good to use since is an Inert Gas. Flushing and Pressurizing. Clean Welding gas is a must since acetylene tend to smoke a lot.
Take a old metal outdoor unit door cover and lay it up under the lineset while brazing that way incase some of the brazing rod drips it will catch it and wont burn the pad .
It's not about brazing right or wrong it's kinda unpredictable. Say if you are brazing in the pouring rain for instance and I'm sure that these great instructional videos are for the new beginner as stated.
So you forgot to show first cleaning the stubs at outdoor unit prior to brazing to remove oils from manufacturing. Also has the tubing been cleared of burrs and properly been reamed? My testo gauges flow just fine. Digital is a beautiful thing. Also use oxygen/Accetlye...much faster to braze and will cause less time on the pipe to produce any potential slag.
Funny seeing all this, it seems so complicated when you hear it all. Been brazing condensers and evap coils for atleast 5 yrs. I prefer spraying Cool Gel into the king valves since they're brass and won't rust. I hate using turbo torches, they are soo loud and slow, I'm always afraid of them heating the king valve up too much. I think the hardest thing to learn is aluminum to copper brazing, I went thru 2 feet of aluminum trying to get a decent connection.
Hey Tom, would you be interested and willing to reply with a quick comment that is one to two sentences with your full name that I could use as a testimonial on the new site I will be publishing at acservicetech.com ? No hard feelings if you are unwilling!
Thank you. Another great video. Alway learn something new in every video you share. Can the small acetylene that comes on the oxy/acetylene kit come with be use instead of the B tank?
Yes absolutely, I have the small brass adapter needed linked right between the air acetylene setup and the oxy-acetylene setup at amazon.com/shop/acservicetech, thanks! The connection on the side of the 40cu B tank is larger than the 10cu MC tank, thanks Octavio!
Yes, I use a MC tank. You can buy a regulator that fits or an adapter to utilize your B tank set-up. I did the later, so that I could always go back if needed.
Just learning. I've see so many people not flowing nitrogen when brazing. I figured they didn't want to take the extra step to do the right thing. Not many people take pride in their work anymore. Your channel and book gives me hope. I was wondering can you use a mapp gas torch to braze ?
mapp gas will only get piping hot enough for brazing up to a certain size. i typically would use mapp gas torch up to at most like 5/8ths maybe. easy small size for when u dont want to lug the whole tank up somewhere
Many people say that and thats great that it is still working. It is just not the best thing to do for compressor lubrication, potential filter drier clogging, strainer clogging, and reacting with newer rust inhibiting additives in the oil. It really doesn't take much time to set up and do, thanks!
I'm thinking of pulling the evaporator coil to clean it which will require brazing. I hope to do it right this time. I have a tank of nitrogen and regulator. I need the flow meter and some hoses.
Correct me if I'm wrong but back then was R22 and without nitrogen might have or was ok but with a 410A system the orffices, txv etc the holes are smaller and you run a high risk for blockages etc. I use nitrogen all the time I dont want a unit coming back on me period. The manufacture calls for we do it.
I'm not sure, but it is probably R22. I never actually looked at the tag to see what the refrigerant is. It did need to have the refrigerant replaced once when I drove a nail through a 2x4 in my garage wall, not remembering i had routed the lines through those 2x4's. I had to call for service on that one.
A 40 year old system means 350 plus head and 65 suction! Different times. Though back then clogging up capillary tubes was a thing. AFAIK you cannot avoid doing nitrogen for refrigeration stuff.
I try to teach with multiple products and methods so I can cover as many techs as possible just like using compound gauges as well as digitals and wireless, thanks!
What Happens If I Brazing The Lines With My Tig Torch And Brazing Cooper Rods ??? If You Donot Like My Cooper Rods I Can Use Your Brazing Rods ??? With My Tig Torch ??? Amén.
as a union apprentice he is not brazing correctly. He is not get full penetration on the 7/8”and after you use a wet rag on a hot joint you have the potential of cracking it while cooling.
Pipe out off ac unit should be ad least 4-6 inches long after the valve. Lots of engineers designing things so they break down just after the warranty expires. Good video.
Been using it for years on systems ranging from window units to commercial 50 ton systems. I've not had internal deposits or joint leaks in almost 30 years and hundreds of thousands of applications of it. Lower welding temps and its working pressure and melting temps are outside of standard system parameters.
Superb video. Whole procedure! If you can make the video of how you replacing the reversing value that would be great! Thank you!)))) because of your video I know what I do in the field as a tech.
Hey Tapch MC, would you be interested and willing to reply with a quick comment that is one to two sentences with your name that I could use as a testimonial on the new site I will be publishing at acservicetech.com ? No hard feelings if you are unwilling! I appreciate you being a patron!
Why aren't flared connections used instead of brazing when doing AC work? Flared connections are easily able to hold high pressure as in a car's braking system.
I won't work like a flow meter. You will either have too much nitrogen or nothing after a few minutes. You will see what I mean after you try it. Too much pressure will create a pinhole leak where the nitrogen escapes and not enough will leave oxidation inside the pipes. I have done tests in the shop doing this. It makes it simple to get the Nitrovue flow reg linked at amazon.com/shop/acservicetech thanks!
If replacing a new 410a condenser and evaporator onto an old system running R22, is it ok to use the old existing copper lines? Assuming that its in good condition, will it be able to handle the much higher pressures of 410a?
You must and I say again must make sure you get all of the oil from the R22 refrigerant out of the system . R22 has mineral oil and 410a has synthetic oil and if you mix them you are in trouble. Remember what they taught you in CFC class I hope you have your license. You should not even use the same gauges for both refrigerants. The oil mixture will get you in trouble. One refrigerant is a HCFC R22 & 410a is a HFC . It is not an issue of pressures at all its the possibility of mixing the refrigerants / oils . And the two refrigerants boil at different temperatures, if you have your CFC license that CFC course covers that .You must have an understanding of the properties of refrigerants as well as the pressures temperature relationships.
@@emmanuelwilliams6004 You said do not use the same gauge with different refrigerant but the gauges are manufactured with multiple refrigerant types on them
Greg Richard The problem is not about manufacturers it is the oils you don’t want to mix the synthetic refrigerant oils with the mineral oils also different refrigerants boils at different temperatures and with these factors in the equation you are headed for trouble when you use the same gauges for all refrigerants. Also when you take the CFC course that is a topic covered and it specifically teaches not to use the same gauges for those reasons which is the best practice truly it is .Oil is present in the hoses after use that is best practice believe me .
@@emmanuelwilliams6004 a lot of manufacturers have changed their stance on the oil issue. They think RX-11 does more damage left over to compressors than a 5% oil mixing of R-22. Rx-11 flush needs a good nitrogen flush and atleast 30 minutes of vacuum time around 300 microns.
I was about to comment that what you said and did on the liquid line was incorrect. The I noticed that the liquid service valve was NOT swagged like the suction valve. You had to swage the 3/8" line, why? What mfr does not provide both service valves already swagged?
This was Carrier/Bryant/Payne and it usually comes like this. It may seem troublesome but if you think about it with the swage in this direction, it follows the correct flow to reduce friction at this point. The next time that the swage is in the opposite direction is on the second swage of the filter drier right before the metering device. I can understand not quite seeing that until later in the video, thanks Tom!
@@acservicetechchannel Yes, it would be the correct flow direction. Our main product line is Carrier and they are always swagged from the factory on BOTH valves.
So crazy to worry about flow and pressure drop across a swage in the liquid line and then use a Hex valve in the suction line? Good manufactures put a gate valve on the suction line on high SEER equipment. Pressure drop is way more pronounced in the vapor line... But at least techs are thinking about mass flow rate now. that's good...
Hello, so no oxygen is necessary for brazing? I was under the impression one needed a oxy-acetilene setup. Alternatively, could one use an oxy-propane setup?
I am distressed working in Eastern Ohio as the bulk of techs don't bother to purge N2 while brazing. Every call becomes a test for stopped metering devices.
Hey Craig - why aren't flare fittings used on service valves? Seems as long as you get them right sized and don't over-tighten they would work just fine?
You said Need get hot 1300 to melt the rod but you didn’t seem like get cherry colors the copper pipe before you applied before applying the rod according to the previous video you said need to be Cherry color before applying I am just confused, because When I tried to brazing waiting too long to be changed the cherry color the copper then I touched the silver rod . The Ac condenser valve looks like brass color main it doesn’t looks like copper when new condenser
You would avoid the joint you are flowing nitrogen through because that rubber grommet is touching the port and the grommet is not rated for any type of heat. You flow through the whole system and allow the nitrogen to make it to the other side, thanks!
Guys just get a burn rag. Much more convenient to carry on your torches instead of wetting the rag then having a wet rag all day. And you know damn well you ain’t throwing rags away lol. No hate
Thank u for all the great videos they are all very helpful, is there a way you could make a video of how to wire low and high pressure switches on series bypassing heat pump or gas furnace control boards would be really helpful thank u once again
Hey Miguel Loza, did you see the pressure switch video i did? Look up "acservicetech pressure switches" In there I show how to wire in series for a contactor, thanks!
I live by the ocean so we never install the filter drier outside. Its always inside the building in front of the evap coil. You must have a filter drier installed with the POE oil in the system or it has a high chance of getting acidic, thanks!
when i braze in a new compressor, scroll copeland, i need to have nitrogen, its it correct that i put nitro on low side and blow out on the high side? Becuse the compressor have a rewerse seal on high side in compressor and can damage the seal?. correct?
The wet towel to cool the valve does not work. Heat shield spray works the best it cost more than a wet rag but it’s the correct way. I cannot tell you how many pull and cleans I have done where the service valves were smoked on install and no longer seat. And when customers see me use it they get interested because most of the hacks out here can barely afford a rag. Don’t be a hack but heat shield spray.
Good job bro! Seen too many weld joints with no nitrogen being used. Soot on the inside for sure. Ive seen idiots install mini splits without vacuuming the air out of the line set. They purge the air out with the factory charge and call it done. The land of hack here. U do nice looking work.
@@metalhalide4043 this video is about purging the air out of the tubing and evap coil with nitrogen while brazing. We are not flowing refrigerant through, thanks!
@@acservicetechchannel Sorry for the confusion, at the top of the thread someone mentioned using the factory charge to purge air out of the system, would this work in the same way as purging air out of the hoses prior to connecting?
Craig, I always pre purged until the flow would suffocate a match flame. That way I knew that there was no more oxygen in the line. Glad you use a flow meter instead of just a regulator. I like that you are using gloves. Good video.
Very well explained. True professional. You are helping apprentices become HVAC journeymen. Every profession needs journeymen professionals like you to show correct methods of your craft. It's no secret that it takes years of experience to do what you do so well and seamlessly. Thank you.
I don't have any experience with that brand. I mainly used Goss, Turbo Torch, and Uniweld, sorry to not have any input on that one Robert! Why are you thinking of getting that brand? Just curious, thanks!
@@acservicetechchannel Well, Tru tech tools sent a video if any one interested to make the job a lot easier. It's between turbo torch and Asco. I've got some oxy acytelen they tend to get heavy every now and then.
A lot of the nitrogen regulators come with a 45 degree angle instead of a vertical on the connection for the flow meter. My question is if I put it on the 45 degree angle does the actual flow meter have to be straight up and down or can it be set to a 45 degree angle and still work appropriately. I hooked it up to my nitrogen regulator and wasn't vertical but it's still look like it moved the ball just didn't know if that was an accurate way to do it or not. I usually use the valve that has automatic Purge set into the valve but it seems like it puts off more pressure and it's not very accurate all the time. Which is why I bought the uniweld Nitro flow regulator.
Dylan, sorry I didn't see this sooner. If you want to reach me faster just mail at info@acservicetech.com I think it is still fairly accurate. I believe you must have a turbo torch regulator or another with the 45 degree. Uniweld has a port that goes straight down and that is a uniweld flow reg. I don't think it would be off by much though, thanks Dylan!
A duct detector which is used on systems with 2000cfm or more? I would like to at some point in the future, thanks for letting me know what you would like to see Carlos!
My Service and Procedure Book- www.acservicetech.com/the-book
Tool List- www.amazon.com/shop/acservicetech
Support the Channel- www.patreon.com/acservicetech
For those that are looking for the tools used in the videos: (Linked Below)
Air Acetylene Torch Setup- amzn.to/2aQalsb
15% Silver Brazing Rods- amzn.to/2gVLyLc
Nitrogen Regulator- amzn.to/2bXdR5f
Nitrogen Flow Meter- amzn.to/2brvoBg
NitroVue Flow Reg- amzn.to/2MiulYv
Ameriflame Oxy Acetylene Torch Setup- amzn.to/2SRm3JF
#2 Tip for Oxy Acetylene Torch- amzn.to/2SPDaeD
Cap-N-Hook Tip for Oxy Acetylene- amzn.to/2MbhpUk
Manual Copper Tube Swage/Expander- amzn.to/2WRPa1M
Uniweld Hydraulic Swaging Tool- amzn.to/2MlrI8m
Uniweld Swage and Flare Kit- amzn.to/2T55jyn
Ultrasonic Leak Detector- amzn.to/2Lw4Zpr
Appion Valve Core Removal Tool- amzn.to/2uYr8WL
Fieldpiece MR45 Recovery Machine- amzn.to/2xAOpN6
RectorSeal Bubble Gas Leak Detector amzn.to/2ckWACn
Pack of 25 C&D valve cores- amzn.to/2J1lurm
C&D Valve Core Wrench, Container, and 3 valve cores- amzn.to/2EVGkps
Filter drier for Recovery Machine- amzn.to/2veVV3m
Here is the link to the Yellow Jacket 1/4" by 1/4" heavy duty hose straight- amzn.to/2umtcod
Blue Vapor Yellow Jacket Gauge- amzn.to/2Ju7pan
Red Liquid Yellow Jacket Gauge- amzn.to/2sSFmGH
Quick Coupler for the Gauges- amzn.to/2sTk8Ze
JB Test Gauge High Side- amzn.to/2ruQb0l
JB Test Gauge Low Side- amzn.to/2qR0utM
UEI DL479 Multimeter with temp sensor amzn.to/2jtsUbJ
Magnet Jumpers- amzn.to/2PyKPQZ
Alligator Jumpers- amzn.to/2PxqJXn
Fieldpiece ST4 Dual Temp Meter amzn.to/2wc1ME3
Fieldpiece Bead K Type Temp Sensor amzn.to/2DBwKfs
Fieldpiece Wet Bulb Temp Sensor amzn.to/2RRI7Tw
Fieldpiece TC24 Temp Clamp amzn.to/2qHLyjZ
Yellow Jacket Refrigerant Gauge Set amzn.to/2aenwTq
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Supco Vacuum Micron Gauge amzn.to/2v1JRiA
RectorSeal Bubble Gas Leak Detector amzn.to/2ckWACn
UEI DL389 Multimeter amzn.to/2xAdaJf
Other tool links can be found in the video description section.
Shop through Amazon! Your Purchases through Amazon provide a means for channels such as mine to earn advertising fees from all purchases after clicking through. Prices are the same as normal- www.amazon.com/shop/acservicetech
You have a error in your book. On page 12 fig 2-2. In the legend for dark red it says high pressure, low temperature. It should say high pressure, high temperature. Because P and T are tied together. If one goes up the other will follow.
Could you please provide amazon link for a yellow hose you use for running nitrogen in this video? Thank you.
All the way from Trinidad and Tobago 🇹🇹 great lectures
It’s embarrassing how few hvac companies actually braze with nitro. Thanks for teaching the correct way.
Craig , you have the best HVAC channel on TH-cam and we are so fortunate to learn from you .
Thank you
I am glad to help Thomas, thank you very much!
Yes sir!
You are right. The best hvac channel!
I always use nitrogen to braze. It amazes me how many technicians refuse to use it. I always hear them say “ I never used it back in the day and I don’t now” or “ that takes too much time”
Yeah it really doesn't take much more time to do it correctly with nitrogen, thanks a lot Matt!
Never had a problem not using it for 25 years........
Is all bs to use nitrogen, I have done thousands of systems and have never use it don't have time for that bull crap
What is the advantage/reason for using nitrogen?
Some people are terrible at welding and really burn the crap out of the pipe trying to get the weld to take, usually using bad welding wire, if the outside of the pipe is nasty looking the inside will look the same, the welds he just did looked fine with a minimum amount of heat.
As always, great video, great teacher. Thanks for sharing.
Thanks a lot Deanmartin1966!
AC Service Tech LLC hey I really find your videos so informing and a lot of info . I’m just starting out in the field and this question is different from this video but how do I know what pressure is good or bad or undercharged or overcharged ? When I hook up my gauges on the system and get the reading pressures how do I find the information ??
Why not make sure that you are truly saved by Jesus Christ and practice
this way. Remorsefully confess with your heart your sins to Jesus Christ
who is God and tell Him that you right now are repenting of your sins
and you want to be born again of the Spirit from above. Tell Jesus that
you are remorsefully sorry for breaking His commandments and that you
are begging for forgiveness from Him. Allow His blood from the cross to
wash away your sins. After this is done with your heart successfully the
Holy Spirit will come to live within you and He will rebuild you from
the inside out.
Look for signs that you are saved. Things like
spreading the good news from Jesus, getting other people saved, a
craving for the word of God, reading the Bible, etc… These things are
known as a calling and fruit bearing. If you're not bearing fruit then
keep doing it. Sometimes it takes time to get saved. Read Matthew
chapter 13 from the King James Bible. God bless!!!!!
Good Words and nicely explained!
I spray gel heat sink and a wet rag... Melted the first valve I did when I was green... LoL.
Thank you for calling it a valve core, i see too many people posting calling it a stem valve.
My teacher kept saying stem valve and made it mad confusing for us newbies.
Just started an hvacr program a few weeks ago this is a godsend
Refrigerant Filled Tubing is making crackling noise inside in my garage next to HVAC unit. We can also hear crackling noise outside next to compressor unit. What is the cause? It constantly making noise regardless if AC is not on/off or furnace heater is on/off. Very strange. Maybe coolant in the pipes or moisture, metal contracting due to cool air?
It's low on refrigerant, probably. The smaller line should be flowing liquid refrigerant and if listened to should sound like a steady flow. However, if the system is low there can be vapor entrained in the liquid and it will make a gurgling sound as it travels through the liquid line with the entrained vapor bubbles.
I'm curious about something; Why don't the manufacturers use something like flare fittings to make these connections? It seems like it would make for a much less complicated installation.
Probably because they dont want DIYs installing units. They do however use those fittings on mini-split ductless systems
@@pizzle1011 Hey Boffin and piz11, brazing has the least chance of leaks occurring in the future but some units in the past did have flare fittings. Like piz11 said, many mini split units have them to make them easier to install. I also believe the manufacturers don't want oxidation in the lines and possibly don't trust techs to always flow nitrogen through when brazing, thanks!
@@acservicetechchannel thanks for your videos. For someone who took classes 20 years ago and wasn't able to do the trade then and now starting up my own side business your videos have been a great resource! Keep up the great work
thanks piz11!
Possibly because of vibration from compressor and fan.
Hello ,you do it WRONG, dont put the wet rag on hot copper line ,creates a black junk inside the copper pipe, second ,why dont you put a water inside service line ,it keeps cool while you brazing. putting a wet rag on top of the service valve while brazing it , creates a vapor which can turn of the flame. NO OFFENCE. thank you
Hey Jores, I know some put water inside the top of the service valve but I keep it cool with the rag on the outside. I don't want to risk getting water into the inside of the service valve as the valve is rotated upward to open it. It will not create any carbon residue or oxidation on the inside of the tubing when putting a rag on the outside of the hot braze joint. We wait until the braze solidifies and then we need to cool it down to reduce the amount of time the heat is on the service valve. This will not negatively affect the braze joint as long as you give it time to solidify, thanks
As always a great Teacher, Mr. Craig! I am a USN retired HVAC tech and still learning day in and day out! Thanks
That is awesome!
I'm not even an hvac tech but I love watching your videos! They are very educational.
Glad you like them!
@@acservicetechchannel Exelent
Ideally you want to braze from the bottom up. Start at the 6 o'clock position and braze in a clockwise direction until you reach the 12 o'clock position at which point you go back to the 6 o'clock position and braze counterclockwise back up to 12 o'clock position. Once completed, be sure to cap your joint and you should never have to worry about a leak from that connection.
what do you mean cap?
@@landonj16 cap as in cap off the joint with a second covering bead of brazing allow. Basically a second pass over the first one to ensure the joint has no leaks. You should still confirm the system is leak free after you're done brazing by doing a standing pressure test with dry nitrogen.
@@mikekin5806 Hey buddy I'm a new HVAC Tech. You seem to know your stuff, quick question. You can run nitrogen as you're brazing, and you need a outlet somewhere for the nitrogen to leave the system, so you don't build up nitrogen pressure is that correct?
@@lex6794 correct. Typically one would use a Nitrogen regulator with a flow meter to allow for a gentle flow of Nitrogen to pass through the system while brazing.
@@mikekin5806 Thank you Sir! Greatly Appreciated!
Why do they not use mechanical connections? And maybe a stupid question but I've been in Automotive my whole life and the last place you find a leak or problems is in the mechanic's connections under the hood
I was able to place 5th in the state for Skills USA. I owe it all to your classes
Yes!!! Thats awesome! Congratulations! I was wondering!
You have a fantastic memory and desire! Thanks for letting me know!
@@acservicetechchannel I was able to earn tools for myself and everyone else in our class
That's awesome Chris! Congratulations! Who awarded the tools?
@@acservicetechchannel Klein Tools is donating them
New HVAC installer starting Monday. Been learning alot from your channel, thank you.
Hope the job is going well for you 😊
Hope the $$$ is rolling in!
@@davetysdal5442 most money I’ve ever made in my life! Love it. 😍
I repair househould appliances and fridges too, so procedure is same when changing compressor and filling gas, but I just wonder... Any special reason why you do not use borax? I use it all the time and it produces wonderful result of faster brazing (faster joining botch copper pieces together) as much cleaner joint. But maybe I am doing something wrong with using borax and I do not know?
I think you are talking about using borax as a flux for copper sweating for silver soldering. This video was on brazing without any additional flux. This way no acid is left in the copper tubing to mix with the refrigerant oil after refrigerant is in the tube, thanks!
Thank you. I appreciate all of the little details that you make sure are known, as opposed to assuming that the person watching already knows that.
Glad it was helpful!
Great videos.. not been practicing my hvac skills for Over 3 years..different job in our company,, now I'm back at it again..been rusty for 3 years Doing non hvac work.great to see this videos very good content..
Thank you Craig, Top stuff as usual...
Glad to help acestu!
Piston or TXV brazing the same way, or different way?
You can flow nitrogen through either usually on ac systems. Make sure to keep the bulb cool or remove the bulb from the vapor line while brazing. I have a video on that in the brazing playlist, thanks!
Just keep the heat off the service valve, Always on the pipes with the flame facing outward not Inward toward the service valves, Wet rag Ok but not needed at those OD diameters, Nitrogen is Always good to use since is an Inert Gas. Flushing and Pressurizing. Clean Welding gas is a must since acetylene tend to smoke a lot.
Thanks, yes always flow nitro!
Take a old metal outdoor unit door cover and lay it up under the lineset while brazing that way incase some of the brazing rod drips it will catch it and wont burn the pad .
Absolutely, great tip!
Or just braze right so there’s no drip.
It's not about brazing right or wrong it's kinda unpredictable. Say if you are brazing in the pouring rain for instance and I'm sure that these great instructional videos are for the new beginner as stated.
Just don’t drip 😉
So you forgot to show first cleaning the stubs at outdoor unit prior to brazing to remove oils from manufacturing. Also has the tubing been cleared of burrs and properly been reamed? My testo gauges flow just fine. Digital is a beautiful thing. Also use oxygen/Accetlye...much faster to braze and will cause less time on the pipe to produce any potential slag.
I didn't show that part just due to the length of the video but I always prepare the copper tubing prior to brazing, thanks!
Funny seeing all this, it seems so complicated when you hear it all. Been brazing condensers and evap coils for atleast 5 yrs. I prefer spraying Cool Gel into the king valves since they're brass and won't rust. I hate using turbo torches, they are soo loud and slow, I'm always afraid of them heating the king valve up too much.
I think the hardest thing to learn is aluminum to copper brazing, I went thru 2 feet of aluminum trying to get a decent connection.
No runs
No drips
No errors 👍
Thanks a lot Tom!
Tomon8tor : And no nipples hanging down under the joint! Lol.
@@tommyboy.357 yeah I always leave a drip and usually put something on the pad to keep me from melting drips onto the plastic.
Ha ha, happens to all of us but yeah it is nice to put something under the tube to catch in case of a drip. Thanks Tommy Boy and Tom!
Hey Tom, would you be interested and willing to reply with a quick comment that is one to two sentences with your full name that I could use as a testimonial on the new site I will be publishing at acservicetech.com ? No hard feelings if you are unwilling!
Hey thanks for taking time to teach us,,,,,,,GREAT JOB
Thanks a lot Rod!
Thank you.
Another great video.
Alway learn something new in every video you share.
Can the small acetylene that comes on the oxy/acetylene kit come with be use instead of the B tank?
Yes absolutely, I have the small brass adapter needed linked right between the air acetylene setup and the oxy-acetylene setup at amazon.com/shop/acservicetech, thanks! The connection on the side of the 40cu B tank is larger than the 10cu MC tank, thanks Octavio!
Yes, I use a MC tank. You can buy a regulator that fits or an adapter to utilize your B tank set-up. I did the later, so that I could always go back if needed.
Prefer oxi/acetylene just because a b tank is LOUD AF. I hate it lol. Plus more heat with the oxi. Especially when you get to 7/8 and above pipe.
Just learning. I've see so many people not flowing nitrogen when brazing. I figured they didn't want to take the extra step to do the right thing. Not many people take pride in their work anymore. Your channel and book gives me hope. I was wondering can you use a mapp gas torch to braze ?
mapp gas will only get piping hot enough for brazing up to a certain size. i typically would use mapp gas torch up to at most like 5/8ths maybe. easy small size for when u dont want to lug the whole tank up somewhere
Most techs aren't going to flow nitrogen. We don't have enough time, and don't get paid enough to care. Braze it and send it!
BTW I brazed the lines on my A/C 40 years ago without nitrogen. Still runs just fine.
Many people say that and thats great that it is still working. It is just not the best thing to do for compressor lubrication, potential filter drier clogging, strainer clogging, and reacting with newer rust inhibiting additives in the oil. It really doesn't take much time to set up and do, thanks!
I'm thinking of pulling the evaporator coil to clean it which will require brazing. I hope to do it right this time. I have a tank of nitrogen and regulator. I need the flow meter and some hoses.
Correct me if I'm wrong but back then was R22 and without nitrogen might have or was ok but with a 410A system the orffices, txv etc the holes are smaller and you run a high risk for blockages etc. I use nitrogen all the time I dont want a unit coming back on me period. The manufacture calls for we do it.
I'm not sure, but it is probably R22. I never actually looked at the tag to see what the refrigerant is. It did need to have the refrigerant replaced once when I drove a nail through a 2x4 in my garage wall, not remembering i had routed the lines through those 2x4's. I had to call for service on that one.
A 40 year old system means 350 plus head and 65 suction! Different times. Though back then clogging up capillary tubes was a thing.
AFAIK you cannot avoid doing nitrogen for refrigeration stuff.
Great video, keep them coming
Thanks Chris, will do!
You teach brazing with oxyacetaline. Why not this time?
I try to teach with multiple products and methods so I can cover as many techs as possible just like using compound gauges as well as digitals and wireless, thanks!
Hes transcended the need for oxygen. As will you, in time...
@@randyosborn284 - I am ready to transcend that need.
I like to use a new type reusable heat trap compound . Have used playdough back in the early 80's before .
You did to good of a job, I can't find no funny comments on how you did it wrong.
Thank you!
Nice Video, I Suggest you to try Induction Heater Instead, no flame needed. Both tubes heated 10-15 seconds with stable and constant temperature.
Can you use Stay Bright 8 instead of brazing your line set.
Yes it can as it will hold the pressure of R-410A but you will be adding a small amount of acid from the flux into the system unfortunately, thanks!
Thanks for the advice👍
Glad to help!
Amazon seems to have the lower cost nitrogen set up. Tank and regulator. DIY'er here that doesn't have a LOT of money.
Not a good video man
What Happens If I Brazing
The Lines With My Tig Torch
And Brazing Cooper Rods ???
If You Donot Like My Cooper Rods
I Can Use Your Brazing Rods ???
With My Tig Torch ???
Amén.
Informative video, thanks! Why are there thumbs down for this video?
as a union apprentice he is not brazing correctly. He is not get full penetration on the 7/8”and after you use a wet rag on a hot joint you have the potential of cracking it while cooling.
Pipe out off ac unit should be ad least 4-6 inches long after the valve. Lots of engineers designing things so they break down just after the warranty expires. Good video.
Great video. Thank you
Thanks Angelo!
WWWWWWoooooowwwww! I AM because I AM!
Knowed! and NOW i know.
Because Knowing IS Elementary. Now YOU KNOW!
THE MORE YOU KNOW!
Thanks David!
Hindi mein bolo yaar
i have saw some guys use stay bright #8 to soldier refrigerant lines. what are your thoughts on this?
Been using it for years on systems ranging from window units to commercial 50 ton systems. I've not had internal deposits or joint leaks in almost 30 years and hundreds of thousands of applications of it. Lower welding temps and its working pressure and melting temps are outside of standard system parameters.
Superb video. Whole procedure! If you can make the video of how you replacing the reversing value that would be great! Thank you!)))) because of your video I know what I do in the field as a tech.
Thanks a lot Tapch MC, I appreciate that and I do remember, thanks!
Hey Tapch MC, would you be interested and willing to reply with a quick comment that is one to two sentences with your name that I could use as a testimonial on the new site I will be publishing at acservicetech.com ? No hard feelings if you are unwilling! I appreciate you being a patron!
whole suction line have to be insulated or just outside?
Why aren't flared connections used instead of brazing when doing AC work? Flared connections are easily able to hold high pressure as in a car's braking system.
Can you use your manifold gauge as the flow meter for the nitrogen?
I won't work like a flow meter. You will either have too much nitrogen or nothing after a few minutes. You will see what I mean after you try it. Too much pressure will create a pinhole leak where the nitrogen escapes and not enough will leave oxidation inside the pipes. I have done tests in the shop doing this. It makes it simple to get the Nitrovue flow reg linked at amazon.com/shop/acservicetech thanks!
If replacing a new 410a condenser and evaporator onto an old system running R22, is it ok to use the old existing copper lines? Assuming that its in good condition, will it be able to handle the much higher pressures of 410a?
Usually yes but you can clean it with R-11 flush or another product, thanks!
You must and I say again must make sure you get all of the oil from the R22 refrigerant out of the system . R22 has mineral oil and 410a has synthetic oil and if you mix them you are in trouble. Remember what they taught you in CFC class I hope you have your license. You should not even use the same gauges for both refrigerants. The oil mixture will get you in trouble. One refrigerant is a HCFC R22 & 410a is a HFC . It is not an issue of pressures at all its the possibility of mixing the refrigerants / oils . And the two refrigerants boil at different temperatures, if you have your CFC license that CFC course covers that .You must have an understanding of the properties of refrigerants as well as the pressures temperature relationships.
@@emmanuelwilliams6004
You said do not use the same gauge with different refrigerant but the gauges are manufactured with multiple refrigerant types on them
Greg Richard The problem is not about manufacturers it is the oils you don’t want to mix the synthetic refrigerant oils with the mineral oils also different refrigerants boils at different temperatures and with these factors in the equation you are headed for trouble when you use the same gauges for all refrigerants. Also when you take the CFC course that is a topic covered and it specifically teaches not to use the same gauges for those reasons which is the best practice truly it is .Oil is present in the hoses after use that is best practice believe me .
@@emmanuelwilliams6004 a lot of manufacturers have changed their stance on the oil issue. They think RX-11 does more damage left over to compressors than a 5% oil mixing of R-22. Rx-11 flush needs a good nitrogen flush and atleast 30 minutes of vacuum time around 300 microns.
I was about to comment that what you said and did on the liquid line was incorrect. The I noticed that the liquid service valve was NOT swagged like the suction valve. You had to swage the 3/8" line, why?
What mfr does not provide both service valves already swagged?
This was Carrier/Bryant/Payne and it usually comes like this. It may seem troublesome but if you think about it with the swage in this direction, it follows the correct flow to reduce friction at this point. The next time that the swage is in the opposite direction is on the second swage of the filter drier right before the metering device. I can understand not quite seeing that until later in the video, thanks Tom!
@@acservicetechchannel
Yes, it would be the correct flow direction.
Our main product line is Carrier and they are always swagged from the factory on BOTH valves.
This was a 16 Seer Payne Condenser and they usually have no swage on the liquid line, thanks Tom!
So crazy to worry about flow and pressure drop across a swage in the liquid line and then use a Hex valve in the suction line? Good manufactures put a gate valve on the suction line on high SEER equipment. Pressure drop is way more pronounced in the vapor line... But at least techs are thinking about mass flow rate now. that's good...
Thank you. You're awesome.
Thanks a lot Earth is hEart!
I am not HVAC guy but looks very interesting
Hello, so no oxygen is necessary for brazing? I was under the impression one needed a oxy-acetilene setup. Alternatively, could one use an oxy-propane setup?
Where I work, nobody ever flows nitrogen through the lines while brazing...
future service call
I am distressed working in Eastern Ohio as the bulk of techs don't bother to purge N2 while brazing. Every call becomes a test for stopped metering devices.
Hey Craig - why aren't flare fittings used on service valves? Seems as long as you get them right sized and don't over-tighten they would work just fine?
More chances of leaks.
I've seen that done by lead, epa certified hvac guys. I did the duct installs and pvc condensation lines. Makes me wanna get back into it.
You said Need get hot 1300 to melt the rod but you didn’t seem like get cherry colors the copper pipe before you applied before applying the rod according to the previous video you said need to be Cherry color before applying I am just confused, because When I tried to brazing waiting too long to be changed the cherry color the copper then I touched the silver rod . The Ac condenser valve looks like brass color main it doesn’t looks like copper when new condenser
I thought you always started with the joint closes to the hose you’re purging nitrogen through?
You would avoid the joint you are flowing nitrogen through because that rubber grommet is touching the port and the grommet is not rated for any type of heat. You flow through the whole system and allow the nitrogen to make it to the other side, thanks!
Will Sil Fos 5 from Menards work instead of SF 15?
Great video! What is your feeling on using Staybrite? Rumor has it, just as good as brazing and no need for running nitrogen. ???
Guys just get a burn rag. Much more convenient to carry on your torches instead of wetting the rag then having a wet rag all day. And you know damn well you ain’t throwing rags away lol. No hate
when do you use acetylene and oxygen when brazing?
Thank u for all the great videos they are all very helpful, is there a way you could make a video of how to wire low and high pressure switches on series bypassing heat pump or gas furnace control boards would be really helpful thank u once again
Hey Miguel Loza, did you see the pressure switch video i did? Look up "acservicetech pressure switches" In there I show how to wire in series for a contactor, thanks!
AC Service Tech LLC yes I saw it just now thank u for your fast response
Glad to help!
Hello, why don't you put dehydrator filters? It is good for Moisture and impurities of Oil and metal powders.
I live by the ocean so we never install the filter drier outside. Its always inside the building in front of the evap coil. You must have a filter drier installed with the POE oil in the system or it has a high chance of getting acidic, thanks!
Stupid question but, how does the nitrogen flow through the system if you have both valves shut off?
when i braze in a new compressor, scroll copeland, i need to have nitrogen, its it correct that i put nitro on low side and blow out on the high side? Becuse the compressor have a rewerse seal on high side in compressor and can damage the seal?. correct?
The wet towel to cool the valve does not work. Heat shield spray works the best it cost more than a wet rag but it’s the correct way. I cannot tell you how many pull and cleans I have done where the service valves were smoked on install and no longer seat. And when customers see me use it they get interested because most of the hacks out here can barely afford a rag. Don’t be a hack but heat shield spray.
Good job bro! Seen too many weld joints with no nitrogen being used. Soot on the inside for sure. Ive seen idiots install mini splits without vacuuming the air out of the line set. They purge the air out with the factory charge and call it done. The land of hack here. U do nice looking work.
Wow, I am sorry to here that but probably makes a professional such as yourself look fantastic though! Thanks a lot Tommy Boy!
Would that method get the air out?, air is lighter than refrigerant vapor and should collect at the top of condensor.
@@metalhalide4043 this video is about purging the air out of the tubing and evap coil with nitrogen while brazing. We are not flowing refrigerant through, thanks!
@@acservicetechchannel Sorry for the confusion, at the top of the thread someone mentioned using the factory charge to purge air out of the system, would this work in the same way as purging air out of the hoses prior to connecting?
Craig, I always pre purged until the flow would suffocate a match flame. That way I knew that there was no more oxygen in the line. Glad you use a flow meter instead of just a regulator. I like that you are using gloves. Good video.
The match flame is a really good idea I'll give it a try. Thanks
This is GREAT!
Thanks ray S!
That's how its done.
Thanks a lot Channel Cat Chaser!
Can I purge with another inert gas like 75/25 or 100% argon?
Soldiering with silver soldier not braising. Braising uses brass rods.
Can you take the plunger out of service valve for Goodman heat pump.. the service valve that doesn’t have snap ring
No they just get replaced, thanks!
I use an oxygen acetylene rig to reduce the HAZ.
Thanks Brandon!
What is HAZ?
Did you braze the bottom of that suction line after you turned off the camera?
Ever try mapp gas with a turbotorch head to braze the lineset?
Thank you our best teacher
Thanks a lot ejohnfall!
Is it better to braze with just acetylene or oxygen and acetylene?
Great tip ! Awesome thanks ACS.
So it will not explode when you put nitrogen while brazing?
Brazing with nitrogen in it! That's a good job at all.
Hello Sir. The nitrogen thank can be yellow color?
Very well explained. True professional. You are helping apprentices become HVAC journeymen. Every profession needs journeymen professionals like you to show correct methods of your craft. It's no secret that it takes years of experience to do what you do so well and seamlessly. Thank you.
Thank you very much and check out our articles and quick tips over at www.acservicetech.com thanks I appreciate your comment!
What size torch tip was that? Thank you for the awesome videos.
He said size 11
so it is not necessary to use oxy-acetyline, I would like to set up just a acetyline kit
Thank you...Godbless ...from...😊🇵🇭
How can I find a description that you mention?
Nice video! I am going to ask are ASCO torches pretty good? Are they better than turbo torch? I’m thinking of getting some ASCO TORCHES.
I don't have any experience with that brand. I mainly used Goss, Turbo Torch, and Uniweld, sorry to not have any input on that one Robert! Why are you thinking of getting that brand? Just curious, thanks!
@@acservicetechchannel Well, Tru tech tools sent a video if any one interested to make the job a lot easier. It's between turbo torch and Asco. I've got some oxy acytelen they tend to get heavy every now and then.
beautiful
Many many thanks
Do you remove the cores before u braze the valve connection? Or wet rag protects it? Thanks
I remove them before brazing, thanks!
AC Service Tech LLC plz share a video of how to remove the core
A lot of the nitrogen regulators come with a 45 degree angle instead of a vertical on the connection for the flow meter. My question is if I put it on the 45 degree angle does the actual flow meter have to be straight up and down or can it be set to a 45 degree angle and still work appropriately. I hooked it up to my nitrogen regulator and wasn't vertical but it's still look like it moved the ball just didn't know if that was an accurate way to do it or not. I usually use the valve that has automatic Purge set into the valve but it seems like it puts off more pressure and it's not very accurate all the time. Which is why I bought the uniweld Nitro flow regulator.
Dylan, sorry I didn't see this sooner. If you want to reach me faster just mail at info@acservicetech.com I think it is still fairly accurate. I believe you must have a turbo torch regulator or another with the 45 degree. Uniweld has a port that goes straight down and that is a uniweld flow reg. I don't think it would be off by much though, thanks Dylan!
@@acservicetechchannel thank you.
Can u do a video on step by step how to hook up a smoke detecter on a commercial package unit. Thank you
A duct detector which is used on systems with 2000cfm or more? I would like to at some point in the future, thanks for letting me know what you would like to see Carlos!
@@acservicetechchannel yes sir. Thank you.