My Service and Procedure Book- www.acservicetech.com/the-book Tool List- www.amazon.com/shop/acservicetech Support the Channel- www.patreon.com/acservicetech For those that are looking for the tools used in the videos: (Linked Below) Air Acetylene Torch Setup- amzn.to/2aQalsb 15% Silver Brazing Rods- amzn.to/2gVLyLc Nitrogen Regulator- amzn.to/2bXdR5f Nitrogen Flow Meter- amzn.to/2brvoBg NitroVue Flow Reg- amzn.to/2MiulYv Ameriflame Oxy Acetylene Torch Setup- amzn.to/2SRm3JF #2 Tip for Oxy Acetylene Torch- amzn.to/2SPDaeD Cap-N-Hook Tip for Oxy Acetylene- amzn.to/2MbhpUk Manual Copper Tube Swage/Expander- amzn.to/2WRPa1M Uniweld Hydraulic Swaging Tool- amzn.to/2MlrI8m Uniweld Swage and Flare Kit- amzn.to/2T55jyn Ultrasonic Leak Detector- amzn.to/2Lw4Zpr Appion Valve Core Removal Tool- amzn.to/2uYr8WL Fieldpiece MR45 Recovery Machine- amzn.to/2xAOpN6 RectorSeal Bubble Gas Leak Detector amzn.to/2ckWACn Pack of 25 C&D valve cores- amzn.to/2J1lurm C&D Valve Core Wrench, Container, and 3 valve cores- amzn.to/2EVGkps Filter drier for Recovery Machine- amzn.to/2veVV3m Here is the link to the Yellow Jacket 1/4" by 1/4" heavy duty hose straight- amzn.to/2umtcod Blue Vapor Yellow Jacket Gauge- amzn.to/2Ju7pan Red Liquid Yellow Jacket Gauge- amzn.to/2sSFmGH Quick Coupler for the Gauges- amzn.to/2sTk8Ze JB Test Gauge High Side- amzn.to/2ruQb0l JB Test Gauge Low Side- amzn.to/2qR0utM UEI DL479 Multimeter with temp sensor amzn.to/2jtsUbJ Magnet Jumpers- amzn.to/2PyKPQZ Alligator Jumpers- amzn.to/2PxqJXn Fieldpiece ST4 Dual Temp Meter amzn.to/2wc1ME3 Fieldpiece Bead K Type Temp Sensor amzn.to/2DBwKfs Fieldpiece Wet Bulb Temp Sensor amzn.to/2RRI7Tw Fieldpiece TC24 Temp Clamp amzn.to/2qHLyjZ Yellow Jacket Refrigerant Gauge Set amzn.to/2aenwTq Refrigerant hoses with valves amzn.to/2aBumVI Yellow Jacket Gauge set & hoses amzn.to/2vLVkV9 Yellow Jacket 4 Port Manifold w Hoses amzn.to/2BkuGIq FieldpieceSMAN360 Digital Manifold Set amzn.to/2BdoaD4 FieldpieceSMAN460 Digital Manifold Set amzn.to/2nB4Fe6 Compact Ball Valve for Refrigerant Hose amzn.to/2KUisW8 QuickDisconnect 90 for refrigerant hose amzn.to/2MMtVcg JB 6 CFM Vacuum Pump amzn.to/2nqbvo8 Appion Blue 3/8" to 1/4" Vacuum Hose amzn.to/2uYlVyc Appion Red 3/8" to 1/4" Vacuum Hose amzn.to/2uYg6Ro Appion Valve Core Removal Tool amzn.to/2uYr8WL Yellow Jacket 1/4" by 1/4" hose amzn.to/2umtcod CPS Vacuum Micron Gauge amzn.to/2v1nM3O Supco Vacuum Micron Gauge amzn.to/2v1JRiA RectorSeal Bubble Gas Leak Detector amzn.to/2ckWACn UEI DL389 Multimeter amzn.to/2xAdaJf Other tool links can be found in the video description section. Shop through Amazon! Your Purchases through Amazon provide a means for channels such as mine to earn advertising fees from all purchases after clicking through. Prices are the same as normal- www.amazon.com/shop/acservicetech
You have a error in your book. On page 12 fig 2-2. In the legend for dark red it says high pressure, low temperature. It should say high pressure, high temperature. Because P and T are tied together. If one goes up the other will follow.
And this, ladies and gentleman, is why your hvac installer deserves every penny they charge. Intricate procedure which when done well as shown in this video, will last many, many years. Very well done. Thanks for posting
@Bob-cx4ze I said "when done well as shown in this video" there are thieves in every field. From car mechanics to physicians. Just gotta find the good/honest ones and stay with them.
Great videos.. not been practicing my hvac skills for Over 3 years..different job in our company,, now I'm back at it again..been rusty for 3 years Doing non hvac work.great to see this videos very good content..
I've watched your Videos for a few years Craig. Thanks for boosting my confidence, and showing all of us how it's done. I wish I had a supervisor like you when I was still an apprentice!
Very well explained. True professional. You are helping apprentices become HVAC journeymen. Every profession needs journeymen professionals like you to show correct methods of your craft. It's no secret that it takes years of experience to do what you do so well and seamlessly. Thank you.
Great vid! I recommend placing a wet rag or piece of sheet metal over the wall exposed corner of the plastic equipment pad. Your skill level negates the need but anyone watching the video is probably going to scorch it with the torch or drop a hot solder ball onto it. Also I found that old socks work best as rags as they really hold the water well.
I always use nitrogen to braze. It amazes me how many technicians refuse to use it. I always hear them say “ I never used it back in the day and I don’t now” or “ that takes too much time”
Some people are terrible at welding and really burn the crap out of the pipe trying to get the weld to take, usually using bad welding wire, if the outside of the pipe is nasty looking the inside will look the same, the welds he just did looked fine with a minimum amount of heat.
Craig, I always pre purged until the flow would suffocate a match flame. That way I knew that there was no more oxygen in the line. Glad you use a flow meter instead of just a regulator. I like that you are using gloves. Good video.
Funny seeing all this, it seems so complicated when you hear it all. Been brazing condensers and evap coils for atleast 5 yrs. I prefer spraying Cool Gel into the king valves since they're brass and won't rust. I hate using turbo torches, they are soo loud and slow, I'm always afraid of them heating the king valve up too much. I think the hardest thing to learn is aluminum to copper brazing, I went thru 2 feet of aluminum trying to get a decent connection.
AC Service Tech LLC hey I really find your videos so informing and a lot of info . I’m just starting out in the field and this question is different from this video but how do I know what pressure is good or bad or undercharged or overcharged ? When I hook up my gauges on the system and get the reading pressures how do I find the information ??
Pipe out off ac unit should be ad least 4-6 inches long after the valve. Lots of engineers designing things so they break down just after the warranty expires. Good video.
Brah, I give you props for posting even though your nitro suppose to be on suction side going in the direction of operation. Then you braze starting at suction on the outdoor, suction indoor, filter dryer indoor, and your last braze should liquid line at outdoor. But your brazes are legit yo!!👍
Is there a benefit brazing then to solder? Solder seems to do the job if prepped correctly using just a handheld propane bottle. With brazing, you need nitro and higher temps. Soldering seems so much easier but I see more brazing done out in the field.
Ideally you want to braze from the bottom up. Start at the 6 o'clock position and braze in a clockwise direction until you reach the 12 o'clock position at which point you go back to the 6 o'clock position and braze counterclockwise back up to 12 o'clock position. Once completed, be sure to cap your joint and you should never have to worry about a leak from that connection.
@@landonj16 cap as in cap off the joint with a second covering bead of brazing allow. Basically a second pass over the first one to ensure the joint has no leaks. You should still confirm the system is leak free after you're done brazing by doing a standing pressure test with dry nitrogen.
@@mikekin5806 Hey buddy I'm a new HVAC Tech. You seem to know your stuff, quick question. You can run nitrogen as you're brazing, and you need a outlet somewhere for the nitrogen to leave the system, so you don't build up nitrogen pressure is that correct?
@@lex6794 correct. Typically one would use a Nitrogen regulator with a flow meter to allow for a gentle flow of Nitrogen to pass through the system while brazing.
just so you know your doing an awesome job. all my new guys I refer them to do some homework and to research your videos. you have a good way of explaining things that makes it easy for new comers to learn the trade and learn it right. thanks for all that you do!
Thanks a lot Tre L. I will have a refrigerant handling book coming out soon with all the procedures I use in a step by step format and pics. I think Testo and Fieldpiece are on the same plain. Fieldpiece has more target superheat capability with their tools though, thanks
Good job bro! Seen too many weld joints with no nitrogen being used. Soot on the inside for sure. Ive seen idiots install mini splits without vacuuming the air out of the line set. They purge the air out with the factory charge and call it done. The land of hack here. U do nice looking work.
@@metalhalide4043 this video is about purging the air out of the tubing and evap coil with nitrogen while brazing. We are not flowing refrigerant through, thanks!
@@acservicetechchannel Sorry for the confusion, at the top of the thread someone mentioned using the factory charge to purge air out of the system, would this work in the same way as purging air out of the hoses prior to connecting?
I totally respect what you HVAC guys had to do to get trainied and licensed. Quotes for replacing my 30 year old handler and A-coil with a 3 Ton 2 stage Goodman system are coming in at $10,000. I've done parts cost on this job including a new concrete slab at around $5,000. That puts labor cost of 2 guys, 10 hours, at $250/hour. What am I missing other than it's a totally sellers market and you guys are making up for pandemic losses? Again, I understand the complexity of installing a replacement unit, but please understand my situation as a homeowner. Thanks.
You are paying for not just labor, you are paying for knowledge, experience, material costs, truck fuel, insurance (workmans comp, vehicle, business, liability), shop rent and utilities, etc. Might want to rethink your attitude a little there Skippy.
Great Video. I was interested to see you did not need to use any flux to braze (we call it silver solder) Copper to brass. My understanding is when you "silver solder" Copper to Coper no flux is required. However, when you Silver solder copper to brass flux is required. The reason for this is I normally do silver soldering for plumbing installations and the silver content is only 2 to 5%
Superb video. Whole procedure! If you can make the video of how you replacing the reversing value that would be great! Thank you!)))) because of your video I know what I do in the field as a tech.
Hey Tapch MC, would you be interested and willing to reply with a quick comment that is one to two sentences with your name that I could use as a testimonial on the new site I will be publishing at acservicetech.com ? No hard feelings if you are unwilling! I appreciate you being a patron!
Hello, thank you for great video. I have learned more from your video then the school I went to. Can you please explain the setting on the nitrogen tank if it is not too much trouble. Thank you 🙏 so much.
You make it look easy I was in school learning just that, in my very little experience I do notice if you try cooling it to quickly you'll break the connection, should wait at least 15-30 seconds before ragging it, at least that is what I did in order to get my pass the instructor and pressure test, lol
Hey Martin, no the connection will not have pin holes or crack when cooling it down. You only need to make sure it is solid which is just a few seconds usually with the changing of color. The teacher may have been erring on the side of caution but the problem is you are allowing the valve to stay too hot too long. We need to protect the moving valves and txv's when brazing, that is why we cool it fast, thanks!
So you forgot to show first cleaning the stubs at outdoor unit prior to brazing to remove oils from manufacturing. Also has the tubing been cleared of burrs and properly been reamed? My testo gauges flow just fine. Digital is a beautiful thing. Also use oxygen/Accetlye...much faster to braze and will cause less time on the pipe to produce any potential slag.
Just learning. I've see so many people not flowing nitrogen when brazing. I figured they didn't want to take the extra step to do the right thing. Not many people take pride in their work anymore. Your channel and book gives me hope. I was wondering can you use a mapp gas torch to braze ?
mapp gas will only get piping hot enough for brazing up to a certain size. i typically would use mapp gas torch up to at most like 5/8ths maybe. easy small size for when u dont want to lug the whole tank up somewhere
Refrigerant Filled Tubing is making crackling noise inside in my garage next to HVAC unit. We can also hear crackling noise outside next to compressor unit. What is the cause? It constantly making noise regardless if AC is not on/off or furnace heater is on/off. Very strange. Maybe coolant in the pipes or moisture, metal contracting due to cool air?
It's low on refrigerant, probably. The smaller line should be flowing liquid refrigerant and if listened to should sound like a steady flow. However, if the system is low there can be vapor entrained in the liquid and it will make a gurgling sound as it travels through the liquid line with the entrained vapor bubbles.
On a related topic: A suction line that was brazed into the service valve on a condenser, and then the line was cut too close to that joint. If you want to debraze and pull that piece of suction line out of the joint, how can you flow nitrogen? Would you recommend attaching a nitrogen hose to the access port, but not fully seating it, to protect the gasket in the hose connector? Or would you just blow nitrogen at the opening of the piece being pulled out, to try to displace the air? Or would you go without nitrogen and just brush the oxidation out of the swagged end of the service valve after you have the piece removed?
You would flow nitrogen from the liquid port through the tubing circuit. however, you don't want to heat that service valve up again as you could have a melting problem on the inside of the valve, thanks!
@@acservicetechchannel Thank you for the answer, and for your videos. I thought I read that the compressor blocks the path from liquid side to suction side in the condenser when it isn't running? Or do you mean through the path to the evaporator? In this case, the line is cut, so there is no lineset attached and no way to attach the lineset to the suction line service port, due to how it was cut off. I use wet rags to keep valves from getting too hot when heating near them. I decided in this case to replace the valves in the condenser. They are the type where the o-rings can't be replaced, and want to be able to pump down later if needed. Are you saying service valves shouldn't be heated up again after the original lineset connections are made? So the valves should always be replaced if the condenser is moved? The same issue exists with getting nitrogen to a joint on the inside of the condenser. That is the case here, where the lines will need to be cut inside the condenser in order to replace the suction line service valve and liquid line service valves.
Why do they not use mechanical connections? And maybe a stupid question but I've been in Automotive my whole life and the last place you find a leak or problems is in the mechanic's connections under the hood
Hello, Craig! Just have to say I'm learning a lot from your videos & techniques! I've been in the construction industry for quite awhile, and sheetmetal worker for the past few years. Just learned some layout of hard copper trunk lines, y-branches, etc. I have done some brazing, too. But thanks to your videos, I'm slowly but surely refining my technique. Keep up the videos! 😁👍
Take a old metal outdoor unit door cover and lay it up under the lineset while brazing that way incase some of the brazing rod drips it will catch it and wont burn the pad .
It's not about brazing right or wrong it's kinda unpredictable. Say if you are brazing in the pouring rain for instance and I'm sure that these great instructional videos are for the new beginner as stated.
I'm curious about something; Why don't the manufacturers use something like flare fittings to make these connections? It seems like it would make for a much less complicated installation.
@@pizzle1011 Hey Boffin and piz11, brazing has the least chance of leaks occurring in the future but some units in the past did have flare fittings. Like piz11 said, many mini split units have them to make them easier to install. I also believe the manufacturers don't want oxidation in the lines and possibly don't trust techs to always flow nitrogen through when brazing, thanks!
@@acservicetechchannel thanks for your videos. For someone who took classes 20 years ago and wasn't able to do the trade then and now starting up my own side business your videos have been a great resource! Keep up the great work
Craig, I noticed you don't use flux. Probably because of possible contamination with the refridgerant. Do you think it is wrong (or over kill) to warm up the 15% silver rod then dip it into powered flux before brazing? I don't want to reinvent the wheel, just tap on your experience. Some food for thought! You get some hits on a video install of an "Air Handler, with duct refit." Thank you for your time.Enjoy your informative videos. Ron
Thanks to your videos I'm able to changed out compressor and got everything running again. As appreciation, I just bought your e-book and quick cards to further the learning. My quick ?, not sure if you've time to answer. I downloaded e.book.epub file and adobe reader file at the end of checkout. Now the adobe said "error, unable to open your e.book.epub file". Did I download the right e-book file or will I get different file in the mail?
Hello, so no oxygen is necessary for brazing? I was under the impression one needed a oxy-acetilene setup. Alternatively, could one use an oxy-propane setup?
Many people say that and thats great that it is still working. It is just not the best thing to do for compressor lubrication, potential filter drier clogging, strainer clogging, and reacting with newer rust inhibiting additives in the oil. It really doesn't take much time to set up and do, thanks!
I'm thinking of pulling the evaporator coil to clean it which will require brazing. I hope to do it right this time. I have a tank of nitrogen and regulator. I need the flow meter and some hoses.
Correct me if I'm wrong but back then was R22 and without nitrogen might have or was ok but with a 410A system the orffices, txv etc the holes are smaller and you run a high risk for blockages etc. I use nitrogen all the time I dont want a unit coming back on me period. The manufacture calls for we do it.
I'm not sure, but it is probably R22. I never actually looked at the tag to see what the refrigerant is. It did need to have the refrigerant replaced once when I drove a nail through a 2x4 in my garage wall, not remembering i had routed the lines through those 2x4's. I had to call for service on that one.
A 40 year old system means 350 plus head and 65 suction! Different times. Though back then clogging up capillary tubes was a thing. AFAIK you cannot avoid doing nitrogen for refrigeration stuff.
Aswem video with good illustration. What you mean by tank (b) and when you’re brazing the service valve must be in back seated it separates the outside condenser and compressor is that correct? Thanks
Well done! Try the new TurboTorch extreme. Make sure you get some hearing protection first. But I love mine. No more oxygen for me. Reversing Valves of the world solute you!
Rookie here: Am I to understand that brazing and using that material to melt into the joint is different than that of sealing joints to be used in copper water joints?
Yes, you are correct. We use brazing because of the high levels of pressure in the HVAC system. Residential water lines don't have that much pressure or heat, so soft metal soldering, even specific plastic pipes are ok. Now when it comes to city water, and commercial types systems, that changes to steel, and iron.
This may seem like a dumb question but why braze the joint? I've seen videos by a company that offers high pressure connectors that you just tighten down. The company says that they can be used for HVAC. Can they be used? Seems easier to use.
I am a subscriber and have bought your books, they are very good and thanks for all your help. I have a question about flushing out a line set that goes up the back of the building about 5 stories, there are two traps installed, what would you recommend on how to flush them out if we cannot reach them. I am converting an R22 system to an R410A, I tried to blow nitrogen thru them but really didn't get anything out of them. I am afraid the traps might be filled with R22, looking forward to your comments. I couldn't find any articles about this on your website.
Hey Tom, would you be interested and willing to reply with a quick comment that is one to two sentences with your full name that I could use as a testimonial on the new site I will be publishing at acservicetech.com ? No hard feelings if you are unwilling!
Does the inside and outside of the copper need to be cleaned (sanded or wire brushed) like that of doing copper fittings for water? I know copper fittings for water usage needs to be cleaned and fluxed. Thanks!
No flux needed when brazing with 15% silver solder. Just sand the copper clean on the male end and make sure the female end is clean on the inside diameter.
You said Need get hot 1300 to melt the rod but you didn’t seem like get cherry colors the copper pipe before you applied before applying the rod according to the previous video you said need to be Cherry color before applying I am just confused, because When I tried to brazing waiting too long to be changed the cherry color the copper then I touched the silver rod . The Ac condenser valve looks like brass color main it doesn’t looks like copper when new condenser
when i braze in a new compressor, scroll copeland, i need to have nitrogen, its it correct that i put nitro on low side and blow out on the high side? Becuse the compressor have a rewerse seal on high side in compressor and can damage the seal?. correct?
I live by the ocean so we never install the filter drier outside. Its always inside the building in front of the evap coil. You must have a filter drier installed with the POE oil in the system or it has a high chance of getting acidic, thanks!
Great video.. Any chance you could explain when you should or should not use FLUX when brazing refrigerant lines? It wasn't clear to me if your joints had already been fluxed either. It would also be interesting to understand the effect from not having a nitrogen flow while brazing.
Harris 15 rods are Flux coated. You just need a clean surface. Different kinds of rods have different coatings as well as different percents of silver. Rods with more silver flow easier but cost more.
Another video on TH-cam stated that flux was only needed to join dissimilar metals. Not when doing copper to copper. Brass is a copper/zinc compound so in this case it still doesn’t need flux.
Is it normal for a company to warranty the air conditioner and furnace and NOT the evaporator because they used a different brand? Lennox did that to my less than 5 year system and if the evap goes, Im SOL!
my ac guy didn't use a rag on the big pipe; he did remove the little stems inside though; could that have damaged the valve? it didn't look like he over heat it it;
My Service and Procedure Book- www.acservicetech.com/the-book
Tool List- www.amazon.com/shop/acservicetech
Support the Channel- www.patreon.com/acservicetech
For those that are looking for the tools used in the videos: (Linked Below)
Air Acetylene Torch Setup- amzn.to/2aQalsb
15% Silver Brazing Rods- amzn.to/2gVLyLc
Nitrogen Regulator- amzn.to/2bXdR5f
Nitrogen Flow Meter- amzn.to/2brvoBg
NitroVue Flow Reg- amzn.to/2MiulYv
Ameriflame Oxy Acetylene Torch Setup- amzn.to/2SRm3JF
#2 Tip for Oxy Acetylene Torch- amzn.to/2SPDaeD
Cap-N-Hook Tip for Oxy Acetylene- amzn.to/2MbhpUk
Manual Copper Tube Swage/Expander- amzn.to/2WRPa1M
Uniweld Hydraulic Swaging Tool- amzn.to/2MlrI8m
Uniweld Swage and Flare Kit- amzn.to/2T55jyn
Ultrasonic Leak Detector- amzn.to/2Lw4Zpr
Appion Valve Core Removal Tool- amzn.to/2uYr8WL
Fieldpiece MR45 Recovery Machine- amzn.to/2xAOpN6
RectorSeal Bubble Gas Leak Detector amzn.to/2ckWACn
Pack of 25 C&D valve cores- amzn.to/2J1lurm
C&D Valve Core Wrench, Container, and 3 valve cores- amzn.to/2EVGkps
Filter drier for Recovery Machine- amzn.to/2veVV3m
Here is the link to the Yellow Jacket 1/4" by 1/4" heavy duty hose straight- amzn.to/2umtcod
Blue Vapor Yellow Jacket Gauge- amzn.to/2Ju7pan
Red Liquid Yellow Jacket Gauge- amzn.to/2sSFmGH
Quick Coupler for the Gauges- amzn.to/2sTk8Ze
JB Test Gauge High Side- amzn.to/2ruQb0l
JB Test Gauge Low Side- amzn.to/2qR0utM
UEI DL479 Multimeter with temp sensor amzn.to/2jtsUbJ
Magnet Jumpers- amzn.to/2PyKPQZ
Alligator Jumpers- amzn.to/2PxqJXn
Fieldpiece ST4 Dual Temp Meter amzn.to/2wc1ME3
Fieldpiece Bead K Type Temp Sensor amzn.to/2DBwKfs
Fieldpiece Wet Bulb Temp Sensor amzn.to/2RRI7Tw
Fieldpiece TC24 Temp Clamp amzn.to/2qHLyjZ
Yellow Jacket Refrigerant Gauge Set amzn.to/2aenwTq
Refrigerant hoses with valves amzn.to/2aBumVI
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RectorSeal Bubble Gas Leak Detector amzn.to/2ckWACn
UEI DL389 Multimeter amzn.to/2xAdaJf
Other tool links can be found in the video description section.
Shop through Amazon! Your Purchases through Amazon provide a means for channels such as mine to earn advertising fees from all purchases after clicking through. Prices are the same as normal- www.amazon.com/shop/acservicetech
You have a error in your book. On page 12 fig 2-2. In the legend for dark red it says high pressure, low temperature. It should say high pressure, high temperature. Because P and T are tied together. If one goes up the other will follow.
Could you please provide amazon link for a yellow hose you use for running nitrogen in this video? Thank you.
All the way from Trinidad and Tobago 🇹🇹 great lectures
Craig , you have the best HVAC channel on TH-cam and we are so fortunate to learn from you .
Thank you
I am glad to help Thomas, thank you very much!
Yes sir!
You are right. The best hvac channel!
I'm not even an hvac tech but I love watching your videos! They are very educational.
Glad you like them!
@@acservicetechchannel Exelent
It’s embarrassing how few hvac companies actually braze with nitro. Thanks for teaching the correct way.
Embarrassing? What’re you in highschool? lol. You don’t need nitro to braze buddy
@@lillambmc9050it prevents oxidation. You definitely do.
@@lillambmc9050Are you serious?
Thank you. I appreciate all of the little details that you make sure are known, as opposed to assuming that the person watching already knows that.
Glad it was helpful!
As always a great Teacher, Mr. Craig! I am a USN retired HVAC tech and still learning day in and day out! Thanks
That is awesome!
New HVAC installer starting Monday. Been learning alot from your channel, thank you.
Hope the job is going well for you 😊
Hope the $$$ is rolling in!
@@davetysdal5442 most money I’ve ever made in my life! Love it. 😍
And this, ladies and gentleman, is why your hvac installer deserves every penny they charge.
Intricate procedure which when done well as shown in this video, will last many, many years.
Very well done. Thanks for posting
Thanks a lot Samlol23! Well said!
Don't assume that all are cut from the same cloth. That's a mistake no matter who the audience is.
@Bob-cx4ze I said "when done well as shown in this video" there are thieves in every field. From car mechanics to physicians. Just gotta find the good/honest ones and stay with them.
Just started an hvacr program a few weeks ago this is a godsend
Great videos.. not been practicing my hvac skills for Over 3 years..different job in our company,, now I'm back at it again..been rusty for 3 years Doing non hvac work.great to see this videos very good content..
I've watched your Videos for a few years Craig. Thanks for boosting my confidence, and showing all of us how it's done. I wish I had a supervisor like you when I was still an apprentice!
Very well explained. True professional. You are helping apprentices become HVAC journeymen. Every profession needs journeymen professionals like you to show correct methods of your craft. It's no secret that it takes years of experience to do what you do so well and seamlessly. Thank you.
Thank you very much and check out our articles and quick tips over at www.acservicetech.com thanks I appreciate your comment!
Thanks!
Thank you for calling it a valve core, i see too many people posting calling it a stem valve.
My teacher kept saying stem valve and made it mad confusing for us newbies.
Great vid! I recommend placing a wet rag or piece of sheet metal over the wall exposed corner of the plastic equipment pad. Your skill level negates the need but anyone watching the video is probably going to scorch it with the torch or drop a hot solder ball onto it. Also I found that old socks work best as rags as they really hold the water well.
I always use nitrogen to braze. It amazes me how many technicians refuse to use it. I always hear them say “ I never used it back in the day and I don’t now” or “ that takes too much time”
Yeah it really doesn't take much more time to do it correctly with nitrogen, thanks a lot Matt!
Never had a problem not using it for 25 years........
Is all bs to use nitrogen, I have done thousands of systems and have never use it don't have time for that bull crap
What is the advantage/reason for using nitrogen?
Some people are terrible at welding and really burn the crap out of the pipe trying to get the weld to take, usually using bad welding wire, if the outside of the pipe is nasty looking the inside will look the same, the welds he just did looked fine with a minimum amount of heat.
Best tutorial yet of correct brazing procedure.
I was able to place 5th in the state for Skills USA. I owe it all to your classes
Yes!!! Thats awesome! Congratulations! I was wondering!
You have a fantastic memory and desire! Thanks for letting me know!
@@acservicetechchannel I was able to earn tools for myself and everyone else in our class
That's awesome Chris! Congratulations! Who awarded the tools?
@@acservicetechchannel Klein Tools is donating them
Craig, I always pre purged until the flow would suffocate a match flame. That way I knew that there was no more oxygen in the line. Glad you use a flow meter instead of just a regulator. I like that you are using gloves. Good video.
The match flame is a really good idea I'll give it a try. Thanks
I've seen that done by lead, epa certified hvac guys. I did the duct installs and pvc condensation lines. Makes me wanna get back into it.
Funny seeing all this, it seems so complicated when you hear it all. Been brazing condensers and evap coils for atleast 5 yrs. I prefer spraying Cool Gel into the king valves since they're brass and won't rust. I hate using turbo torches, they are soo loud and slow, I'm always afraid of them heating the king valve up too much.
I think the hardest thing to learn is aluminum to copper brazing, I went thru 2 feet of aluminum trying to get a decent connection.
As always, great video, great teacher. Thanks for sharing.
Thanks a lot Deanmartin1966!
AC Service Tech LLC hey I really find your videos so informing and a lot of info . I’m just starting out in the field and this question is different from this video but how do I know what pressure is good or bad or undercharged or overcharged ? When I hook up my gauges on the system and get the reading pressures how do I find the information ??
Great tutorial. Thanks for giving the Turbo Torch some love.
Pipe out off ac unit should be ad least 4-6 inches long after the valve. Lots of engineers designing things so they break down just after the warranty expires. Good video.
Brah, I give you props for posting even though your nitro suppose to be on suction side going in the direction of operation. Then you braze starting at suction on the outdoor, suction indoor, filter dryer indoor, and your last braze should liquid line at outdoor. But your brazes are legit yo!!👍
Thanks, I like the video. The very first step before brazing is to remove all refrigerant from the entire system even before flowing nitrogen, LOL
The lines were never charged
Nice Video, I Suggest you to try Induction Heater Instead, no flame needed. Both tubes heated 10-15 seconds with stable and constant temperature.
Is there a benefit brazing then to solder? Solder seems to do the job if prepped correctly using just a handheld propane bottle. With brazing, you need nitro and higher temps. Soldering seems so much easier but I see more brazing done out in the field.
You did to good of a job, I can't find no funny comments on how you did it wrong.
Thank you!
Thank you our best teacher
Thanks a lot ejohnfall!
Ideally you want to braze from the bottom up. Start at the 6 o'clock position and braze in a clockwise direction until you reach the 12 o'clock position at which point you go back to the 6 o'clock position and braze counterclockwise back up to 12 o'clock position. Once completed, be sure to cap your joint and you should never have to worry about a leak from that connection.
what do you mean cap?
@@landonj16 cap as in cap off the joint with a second covering bead of brazing allow. Basically a second pass over the first one to ensure the joint has no leaks. You should still confirm the system is leak free after you're done brazing by doing a standing pressure test with dry nitrogen.
@@mikekin5806 Hey buddy I'm a new HVAC Tech. You seem to know your stuff, quick question. You can run nitrogen as you're brazing, and you need a outlet somewhere for the nitrogen to leave the system, so you don't build up nitrogen pressure is that correct?
@@lex6794 correct. Typically one would use a Nitrogen regulator with a flow meter to allow for a gentle flow of Nitrogen to pass through the system while brazing.
@@mikekin5806 Thank you Sir! Greatly Appreciated!
just so you know your doing an awesome job. all my new guys I refer them to do some homework and to research your videos. you have a good way of explaining things that makes it easy for new comers to learn the trade and learn it right. thanks for all that you do!
how do you like the fieldpiece wireless probes. looking to switch from testo ro fieldpiece. just wondering your thoughts
Thanks a lot Tre L. I will have a refrigerant handling book coming out soon with all the procedures I use in a step by step format and pics. I think Testo and Fieldpiece are on the same plain. Fieldpiece has more target superheat capability with their tools though, thanks
Best teacher. Thank you.
Wow, thank you!
Good job bro! Seen too many weld joints with no nitrogen being used. Soot on the inside for sure. Ive seen idiots install mini splits without vacuuming the air out of the line set. They purge the air out with the factory charge and call it done. The land of hack here. U do nice looking work.
Wow, I am sorry to here that but probably makes a professional such as yourself look fantastic though! Thanks a lot Tommy Boy!
Would that method get the air out?, air is lighter than refrigerant vapor and should collect at the top of condensor.
@@metalhalide4043 this video is about purging the air out of the tubing and evap coil with nitrogen while brazing. We are not flowing refrigerant through, thanks!
@@acservicetechchannel Sorry for the confusion, at the top of the thread someone mentioned using the factory charge to purge air out of the system, would this work in the same way as purging air out of the hoses prior to connecting?
I totally respect what you HVAC guys had to do to get trainied and licensed. Quotes for replacing my 30 year old handler and A-coil with a 3 Ton 2 stage Goodman system are coming in at $10,000. I've done parts cost on this job including a new concrete slab at around $5,000. That puts labor cost of 2 guys, 10 hours, at $250/hour. What am I missing other than it's a totally sellers market and you guys are making up for pandemic losses? Again, I understand the complexity of installing a replacement unit, but please understand my situation as a homeowner. Thanks.
I think u are paying for what they know vs what they do.
@@harykorne7995 at $250 an hour they would have to know the meaning of life 😂
Do it yourself. They aren't going to crawl around your attic all day for the fun of it!
What you're missing can be found by taking a business class. Nobody pockets all of the money unless they're doing a side job.
You are paying for not just labor, you are paying for knowledge, experience, material costs, truck fuel, insurance (workmans comp, vehicle, business, liability), shop rent and utilities, etc. Might want to rethink your attitude a little there Skippy.
Hey thanks for taking time to teach us,,,,,,,GREAT JOB
Thanks a lot Rod!
Great Video. I was interested to see you did not need to use any flux to braze (we call it silver solder) Copper to brass. My understanding is when you "silver solder" Copper to Coper no flux is required. However, when you Silver solder copper to brass flux is required. The reason for this is I normally do silver soldering for plumbing installations and the silver content is only 2 to 5%
Superb video. Whole procedure! If you can make the video of how you replacing the reversing value that would be great! Thank you!)))) because of your video I know what I do in the field as a tech.
Thanks a lot Tapch MC, I appreciate that and I do remember, thanks!
Hey Tapch MC, would you be interested and willing to reply with a quick comment that is one to two sentences with your name that I could use as a testimonial on the new site I will be publishing at acservicetech.com ? No hard feelings if you are unwilling! I appreciate you being a patron!
Great tip ! Awesome thanks ACS.
Very nice job we really appreciate that explanation
Thank you Craig, Top stuff as usual...
Glad to help acestu!
Very thankful for the video!
Glad it was helpful!
Hello, thank you for great video. I have learned more from your video then the school I went to. Can you please explain the setting on the nitrogen tank if it is not too much trouble.
Thank you 🙏 so much.
How do you braze on the evaporator side please thank you for your time and experience
You make it look easy I was in school learning just that, in my very little experience I do notice if you try cooling it to quickly you'll break the connection, should wait at least 15-30 seconds before ragging it, at least that is what I did in order to get my pass the instructor and pressure test, lol
Hey Martin, no the connection will not have pin holes or crack when cooling it down. You only need to make sure it is solid which is just a few seconds usually with the changing of color. The teacher may have been erring on the side of caution but the problem is you are allowing the valve to stay too hot too long. We need to protect the moving valves and txv's when brazing, that is why we cool it fast, thanks!
Excellent video ! You are aa pro !
Thanks a lot!
So you forgot to show first cleaning the stubs at outdoor unit prior to brazing to remove oils from manufacturing. Also has the tubing been cleared of burrs and properly been reamed? My testo gauges flow just fine. Digital is a beautiful thing. Also use oxygen/Accetlye...much faster to braze and will cause less time on the pipe to produce any potential slag.
I didn't show that part just due to the length of the video but I always prepare the copper tubing prior to brazing, thanks!
whole suction line have to be insulated or just outside?
I like to use a new type reusable heat trap compound . Have used playdough back in the early 80's before .
Just learning. I've see so many people not flowing nitrogen when brazing. I figured they didn't want to take the extra step to do the right thing. Not many people take pride in their work anymore. Your channel and book gives me hope. I was wondering can you use a mapp gas torch to braze ?
mapp gas will only get piping hot enough for brazing up to a certain size. i typically would use mapp gas torch up to at most like 5/8ths maybe. easy small size for when u dont want to lug the whole tank up somewhere
Ever try mapp gas with a turbotorch head to braze the lineset?
Refrigerant Filled Tubing is making crackling noise inside in my garage next to HVAC unit. We can also hear crackling noise outside next to compressor unit. What is the cause? It constantly making noise regardless if AC is not on/off or furnace heater is on/off. Very strange. Maybe coolant in the pipes or moisture, metal contracting due to cool air?
It's low on refrigerant, probably. The smaller line should be flowing liquid refrigerant and if listened to should sound like a steady flow. However, if the system is low there can be vapor entrained in the liquid and it will make a gurgling sound as it travels through the liquid line with the entrained vapor bubbles.
On a related topic: A suction line that was brazed into the service valve on a condenser, and then the line was cut too close to that joint. If you want to debraze and pull that piece of suction line out of the joint, how can you flow nitrogen? Would you recommend attaching a nitrogen hose to the access port, but not fully seating it, to protect the gasket in the hose connector? Or would you just blow nitrogen at the opening of the piece being pulled out, to try to displace the air? Or would you go without nitrogen and just brush the oxidation out of the swagged end of the service valve after you have the piece removed?
You would flow nitrogen from the liquid port through the tubing circuit. however, you don't want to heat that service valve up again as you could have a melting problem on the inside of the valve, thanks!
@@acservicetechchannel Thank you for the answer, and for your videos.
I thought I read that the compressor blocks the path from liquid side to suction side in the condenser when it isn't running? Or do you mean through the path to the evaporator? In this case, the line is cut, so there is no lineset attached and no way to attach the lineset to the suction line service port, due to how it was cut off.
I use wet rags to keep valves from getting too hot when heating near them. I decided in this case to replace the valves in the condenser. They are the type where the o-rings can't be replaced, and want to be able to pump down later if needed.
Are you saying service valves shouldn't be heated up again after the original lineset connections are made? So the valves should always be replaced if the condenser is moved?
The same issue exists with getting nitrogen to a joint on the inside of the condenser. That is the case here, where the lines will need to be cut inside the condenser in order to replace the suction line service valve and liquid line service valves.
Why do they not use mechanical connections? And maybe a stupid question but I've been in Automotive my whole life and the last place you find a leak or problems is in the mechanic's connections under the hood
Hello, Craig! Just have to say I'm learning a lot from your videos & techniques!
I've been in the construction industry for quite awhile, and sheetmetal worker for the past few years. Just learned some layout of hard copper trunk lines, y-branches, etc. I have done some brazing, too. But thanks to your videos, I'm slowly but surely refining my technique.
Keep up the videos! 😁👍
Glad to help Winston!
Great video, keep them coming
Thanks Chris, will do!
Do you keep the shader valve depresser in the hose?
When brazing, should you sand and clean pipe like soldering ?????????????????????????
Yes, always.
Stupid question but, how does the nitrogen flow through the system if you have both valves shut off?
Is it better to braze with just acetylene or oxygen and acetylene?
Great video! What is your feeling on using Staybrite? Rumor has it, just as good as brazing and no need for running nitrogen. ???
Nice demo.
Thanks a lot not a newbie!
Take a old metal outdoor unit door cover and lay it up under the lineset while brazing that way incase some of the brazing rod drips it will catch it and wont burn the pad .
Absolutely, great tip!
Or just braze right so there’s no drip.
It's not about brazing right or wrong it's kinda unpredictable. Say if you are brazing in the pouring rain for instance and I'm sure that these great instructional videos are for the new beginner as stated.
Just don’t drip 😉
I spray gel heat sink and a wet rag... Melted the first valve I did when I was green... LoL.
I'm curious about something; Why don't the manufacturers use something like flare fittings to make these connections? It seems like it would make for a much less complicated installation.
Probably because they dont want DIYs installing units. They do however use those fittings on mini-split ductless systems
@@pizzle1011 Hey Boffin and piz11, brazing has the least chance of leaks occurring in the future but some units in the past did have flare fittings. Like piz11 said, many mini split units have them to make them easier to install. I also believe the manufacturers don't want oxidation in the lines and possibly don't trust techs to always flow nitrogen through when brazing, thanks!
@@acservicetechchannel thanks for your videos. For someone who took classes 20 years ago and wasn't able to do the trade then and now starting up my own side business your videos have been a great resource! Keep up the great work
thanks piz11!
Possibly because of vibration from compressor and fan.
Did you braze the bottom of that suction line after you turned off the camera?
Craig,
I noticed you don't use flux. Probably because of possible contamination with the refridgerant. Do you think it is wrong (or over kill) to warm up the 15% silver rod then dip it into powered flux before brazing? I don't want to reinvent the wheel, just tap on your experience.
Some food for thought!
You get some hits on a video install of an "Air Handler, with duct refit."
Thank you for your time.Enjoy your informative videos.
Ron
Thanks to your videos I'm able to changed out compressor and got everything running again. As appreciation, I just bought your e-book and quick cards to further the learning. My quick ?, not sure if you've time to answer. I downloaded e.book.epub file and adobe reader file at the end of checkout. Now the adobe said "error, unable to open your e.book.epub file". Did I download the right e-book file or will I get different file in the mail?
Hello, so no oxygen is necessary for brazing? I was under the impression one needed a oxy-acetilene setup. Alternatively, could one use an oxy-propane setup?
Hello Sir. The nitrogen thank can be yellow color?
BTW I brazed the lines on my A/C 40 years ago without nitrogen. Still runs just fine.
Many people say that and thats great that it is still working. It is just not the best thing to do for compressor lubrication, potential filter drier clogging, strainer clogging, and reacting with newer rust inhibiting additives in the oil. It really doesn't take much time to set up and do, thanks!
I'm thinking of pulling the evaporator coil to clean it which will require brazing. I hope to do it right this time. I have a tank of nitrogen and regulator. I need the flow meter and some hoses.
Correct me if I'm wrong but back then was R22 and without nitrogen might have or was ok but with a 410A system the orffices, txv etc the holes are smaller and you run a high risk for blockages etc. I use nitrogen all the time I dont want a unit coming back on me period. The manufacture calls for we do it.
I'm not sure, but it is probably R22. I never actually looked at the tag to see what the refrigerant is. It did need to have the refrigerant replaced once when I drove a nail through a 2x4 in my garage wall, not remembering i had routed the lines through those 2x4's. I had to call for service on that one.
A 40 year old system means 350 plus head and 65 suction! Different times. Though back then clogging up capillary tubes was a thing.
AFAIK you cannot avoid doing nitrogen for refrigeration stuff.
Aswem video with good illustration. What you mean by tank (b) and when you’re brazing the service valve must be in back seated it separates the outside condenser and compressor is that correct? Thanks
How can I find a description that you mention?
Well done! Try the new TurboTorch extreme. Make sure you get some hearing protection first. But I love mine. No more oxygen for me.
Reversing Valves of the world solute you!
Thanks for the tip!
Informative video, thanks! Why are there thumbs down for this video?
Great demo 👍👍
Thanks a lot GeneK HVACR!
Rookie here: Am I to understand that brazing and using that material to melt into the joint is different than that of sealing joints to be used in copper water joints?
Yes, you are correct. We use brazing because of the high levels of pressure in the HVAC system. Residential water lines don't have that much pressure or heat, so soft metal soldering, even specific plastic pipes are ok. Now when it comes to city water, and commercial types systems, that changes to steel, and iron.
This may seem like a dumb question but why braze the joint? I've seen videos by a company that offers high pressure connectors that you just tighten down. The company says that they can be used for HVAC. Can they be used? Seems easier to use.
I am a subscriber and have bought your books, they are very good and thanks for all your help.
I have a question about flushing out a line set that goes up the back of the building about 5 stories, there are two traps installed, what would you recommend on how to flush them out if we cannot reach them. I am converting an R22 system to an R410A, I tried to blow nitrogen thru them but really didn't get anything out of them. I am afraid the traps might be filled with R22, looking forward to your comments. I couldn't find any articles about this on your website.
No runs
No drips
No errors 👍
Thanks a lot Tom!
Tomon8tor : And no nipples hanging down under the joint! Lol.
@@tommyboy.357 yeah I always leave a drip and usually put something on the pad to keep me from melting drips onto the plastic.
Ha ha, happens to all of us but yeah it is nice to put something under the tube to catch in case of a drip. Thanks Tommy Boy and Tom!
Hey Tom, would you be interested and willing to reply with a quick comment that is one to two sentences with your full name that I could use as a testimonial on the new site I will be publishing at acservicetech.com ? No hard feelings if you are unwilling!
Does the inside and outside of the copper need to be cleaned (sanded or wire brushed) like that of doing copper fittings for water? I know copper fittings for water usage needs to be cleaned and fluxed. Thanks!
No flux needed when brazing with 15% silver solder. Just sand the copper clean on the male end and make sure the female end is clean on the inside diameter.
U should get a victor cutskill oxygen acetylene kit, easiest and cleanest way to braze
So it will not explode when you put nitrogen while brazing?
You said Need get hot 1300 to melt the rod but you didn’t seem like get cherry colors the copper pipe before you applied before applying the rod according to the previous video you said need to be Cherry color before applying I am just confused, because When I tried to brazing waiting too long to be changed the cherry color the copper then I touched the silver rod . The Ac condenser valve looks like brass color main it doesn’t looks like copper when new condenser
when i braze in a new compressor, scroll copeland, i need to have nitrogen, its it correct that i put nitro on low side and blow out on the high side? Becuse the compressor have a rewerse seal on high side in compressor and can damage the seal?. correct?
Hello, why don't you put dehydrator filters? It is good for Moisture and impurities of Oil and metal powders.
I live by the ocean so we never install the filter drier outside. Its always inside the building in front of the evap coil. You must have a filter drier installed with the POE oil in the system or it has a high chance of getting acidic, thanks!
Awesome video A+ as usual. What do you think about stay brite 8
Thanks for the advice👍
Glad to help!
Can you use flux when brazing
Will Sil Fos 5 from Menards work instead of SF 15?
Recovery all refrigerant then purge line with nitrogen?
This is GREAT!
Thanks ray S!
Perfect procedure! You won one more subscribe!
Thanks William!
Great video.. Any chance you could explain when you should or should not use FLUX when brazing refrigerant lines? It wasn't clear to me if your joints had already been fluxed either. It would also be interesting to understand the effect from not having a nitrogen flow while brazing.
You don't use flux when braising, only when soldering.
Harris 15 rods are Flux coated. You just need a clean surface. Different kinds of rods have different coatings as well as different percents of silver. Rods with more silver flow easier but cost more.
Another video on TH-cam stated that flux was only needed to join dissimilar metals. Not when doing copper to copper. Brass is a copper/zinc compound so in this case it still doesn’t need flux.
Nice job and video
This is a really great video , great explanations thank you very much
Is it normal for a company to warranty the air conditioner and furnace
and NOT the evaporator because they used a different brand? Lennox did
that to my less than 5 year system and if the evap goes, Im SOL!
Prefer oxi/acetylene just because a b tank is LOUD AF. I hate it lol. Plus more heat with the oxi. Especially when you get to 7/8 and above pipe.
my ac guy didn't use a rag on the big pipe; he did remove the little stems inside though; could that have damaged the valve? it didn't look like he over heat it it;
If it is not leaking now, it is ok since you won't have to move the valve stem again with these two position service valves, thanks!
Can you take the plunger out of service valve for Goodman heat pump.. the service valve that doesn’t have snap ring
No they just get replaced, thanks!