Satsuma Mandarin Growing Guide | Owari Satsuma Cold Hardy Citrus Tree
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 14 ธ.ค. 2019
- I am growing an Owari Satsuma citrus tree in Zone 8A on the southeastern North Carolina coast where we have hot summers and mild winters, but are prone to brief extreme cold outbreaks from Arctic blasts. Growing most citrus in Zone 8A is out of the question, but varieties of satsuma mandarin citrus can actually be grown in micro-climates. Satsuma mandarins are sweet, zipper-skinned and mostly seedless, and the quality of fruit is excellent. These are not bitter, trifoliate orange based hybrids. These are real-deal top-notch citrus trees.
The tree featured in this video is an Owari Satsuma grafted onto trifoliate orange rootstock. I purchased my tree from Stan McKenzie at McKenzie Farms in June 2018 and planted it in the ground in March 2019. It is now December 2019 and I picked the first ever satsuma off this tree.
This video is a comprehensive overview of the tree, along with integrated links to my other videos which show you how to plant and fertilize your satsuma mandarin citrus tree. I end the video with a taste test of the tree's very first fruit. The fruit quality was excellent, and I cannot wait until the next crop already.
If you live in Zone 8 and think it's too cold to grow citrus in-ground, think again! Citrus in Zone 8 is not only possible, but it's easy with this wonderful tree.
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After looking your video I am planing to buy owari satsuma tree.but when I look online some nursery’s saying frost owari satsuma. owaOwari satsuma frost owari satsuma both are same or diffrent?please help.thank you.
I just bought myself an Owari Satsuma tree. I’m in north Florida and they grow really well here. I already have two mature Meyer Lemon trees and 3 Ruby Grapefruit Trees. This winter I traded with my coworker, lemons for Satsumas and now I’m totally obsessed with them. Can’t wait until it starts to fruit!
Nice collection. Satsumas are so much fun because they're so easy to peel and break into sections. I'm also starting to fall in love with the Cara Cara. A Cara Cara won't survive in my climate, but it will do well in yours. I think I'm going to try one in ground with protection and see if I can do it in a protected location because they're so good.
That's awesome to hear! Wish I could have protected my one grapefruit tree to have one now!
Someone here in Richmond VA bought an owari satsuma from McKenzie farms and hers is massive!
I got it! You motivated me when I first saw this video last year. Tonight, I bought an Owari. Since I am in 7b, I know I am taking a chance. As soon as I got home, I had to watch your video again. I will follow your lead and bring it in for the first year.
If you plan on planting an Owari Satsuma in-ground in Zone 7b, you will have to actively protect it with incandescent lights and plant jackets like I do with my avocado tree. It will not be able to survive long-term without human intervention. If you're willing to put in the work for cold protection, it may be doable depending on how warm your Zone 7b is. Zone 7b Philadelphia is a whole different animal than Zone 7b Atlanta, for example, and this will never survive in a place like 7b Philadelphia, New York City or Baltimore. Deep South Zone 7b's where the average high's in January are well into the 50's may have a chance.
I went by McKenzie Farms last weekend and bought a Brown Satsuma and a limequat! Thanks for letting us know about him. He really knows his citrus!
Ok, I'm using your vid to convince hubby to put this in our yard. Lol thanks
tomdongrace as long as you’re in a sufficiently warm climate, or you’re willing to protect it, you won’t regret it. It is a great variety.
Lol I just go out and buy a tree and then convince my hubby on the many benefits it has…
Thank you for this video. I just purchased a satsuma from Stan. I can’t wait for it to arrive
I saw this video about a month ago. Yesterday I was at Costco, in California, and in their citrus tree area they had Owari Satsuma trees! I remembered hearing this name in your video. It is not a dwarf, but I purchased it anyway. I will put it in a container and prune it to be smaller. The rest of my container citrus trees are dwarf. I am so excited. I had to watch your video again!!! Looking forward to the future of this little tree.
I bought one this past Friday at Costco. I doesn't say if it is a dwarf, but it is a grafted tree. You can tell at the bottom of the trunk. I'm trying to decide whether to plant it in the ground or in a large container. I'm in zone 8A, so hope this tree will make it through the winter.
How has the tree done for you so far?
I visited Stan two weekends ago and bought an Owari because of one of your previous videos I had watched where you talked about how delicious they were. Stan said that he gets lots of business because of you. 🙂 He also said that he learned how to keep citrus warm with a barrel of water by watching one of your videos. Thanks for sharing your knowledge.
Thank you for sharing this amazing tree. We live in zone 5, but our community is looking into building one of those partially underground green houses. A guy in the Midwest has been successfully growing citrus there in a zone as cold as ours. This tree seems like a perfect fit.
Thank you for watching. If you want to WOW people, look into growing a Trifoliate Orange. They can survive unprotected to Zone 5. You can get them on eBay for around $20. You may want to protect it the first couple years, but with some pruning, you can shape it into a real citrus tree that'll totally freak some in-the-know people out! If you're a warm Zone 5, you may be able to grow it completely unprotected. In fact, while you're at it, add a Musa Basjoo banana. They're hardy to Zone 5 as well. By mid-summer, you'll have 10 ft tall bananas and oranges growing on your property and you'll have friends and neighbors mightily confused!
....dude.
Thank you for the great video and all of your helpful comments. I have a small 10 acre farm in South GA about 50miles northeast of Columbus. The only "fruit" tress we have are the terrible Bradford Pear. I don't understand why the previous owner ever planted them. We had a beautiful peach tree but unfortunately our goats at the time got into the yard and destroyed it. So I'm looking into planting some fruit trees with a purpose and my family loves citrus. These trees sound like a good fit! Yours looks beautiful as does the pepper. Thank you so much for the idea and sharing your experience.
Is Columbus an 8a or an 8b? Satsumas may struggle without some protection in an 8a. A strong 8b is more secure for them. A lot of old farms just planted what was available at the time. The internet has lead to SO MANY new varieties due to the ability for breeders to share info. So much has happened in the past 30 years that have made old word-of-mouth varieties obsolete.
Just wanted to say Hi and thanks for posting these videos. I would probably be safe in saying I have at least one customer per week that comes here because of your videos. Keep up the good work!
That's great to hear! Thanks for the tree. It's doing great, here. It's doing so well that I'd like to add a Brown Select to the rear property under my loblolly pines. We hit 23.4 degrees on Saturday and there was no frost under those pines, so I think that's a good spot.
Excellent video! Great info and lots of details. I just grafted 5 varieties into a satsuma I got from the nursery. This will be my center citrus tree in Houston, TX.
Wow, that's awesome! Where did you get the scion wood? I would love to find Ichang Lemon wood.
@@TheMillennialGardener I air layered a few trees, and started some from seed. Also, I have some friends who contribute.
You are a wealth of information and I want to see you grow. The first 4 minutes is the same picture. Turn this into a video! Subscribed.
Thank you, I really appreciate that. Thank you for watching and subscribing.
I just purchased 2 Owari trees from an old fellow who grows and sells them. His yard is bedecked with a dozen that are enormous. Quite literally 10 to 12 feet tall and 12 feet in diameter. His yield is staggering. He fertilizes with 12-6-6 and he drives a 4 foot rebar rod next to each tree for iron consumption for the trees. Well, with my 7 Satsuma trees, I hope in the near future to reap a bountiful crop too. Here in Semmes, Alabama, we deal with a handfull of freezing days and I'm covering them with tarps. Good luck with your fruits. Truly, you've chosen one of the best varieties.
Sounds like a pretty good plan. I got mine grafted on flying dragon so I can keep it at around 6-8 feet. 10-12 feet would have enormous yields. I would expect a tree that large to have 1,000+ fruits if my little second year tree pumped out 50 in its 2nd season. Wishing you best of luck!
Thx for the great info on the Owari Satsuma.
You're welcome. Thank you for watching!
Got one! I'm only a few miles from you here in NC. I have it in a pot for about 10 months now. It is loaded with buds!
A little protection, a little while during the winter. This winter is so warm.
My fig tree put off its first fruits last summer at about 200 fruits!
Caden Rolland that’s great to hear. My satsuma held 4 fruits to maturity this past year. Hopefully it’ll make more next year. This has been a great winter in terms of low temperatures. I’m really looking forward to spring.
Thank you so much for this information. I love growing citrus in my South Brunswick Co NC garden. Since we are so close in location I feel confident trying it myself. Blessings friend!
If I can do it, you certainly can. You’re probably only 15-20 mins from me. I’m in North Brunswick, so you may have a marginally easier time. Good luck!
Not sure where you are but I used to have a home away from home in Shell Point Recreational Village in the 80s and early 90s.
Loved the area. Holden Beach and Ocean Isle. 👍
@@calvint9356 I live in Varnamtown right down the road from Holden Beach so I know exactly where you are talking about.Small world🙂
Awesome video! I live in Pensacola FL and have luck with my Meyer lemon tree, but the orange and grapefruit trees I tried got freeze burn due to their placement in my yard and the windchill! Their bark cracked because the windchill came with little warning and I didn't get them protected as I normally would! My Meyer lemon tree is about 5 feet from an Eastern side fence and is always kept from harsh cold! It is about 12ft high now after about 15 years of growth! It almost got killed and I thought that only the rootstock wad left, but in the coming year after a freeze I noticed Meyer lemon branches growing from the base! I let all growth go for a few years until I had my Meyer lemon tree back and removed most root stock with all those 4" thorns!
Now every year I get hundreds of lemons out into March of the new year! Already here in May there are a few hundred golfball size green lemons! My neighbor just added a satsuma to the side of his house toward the front on the south side and I wondered what they would be like! I was surprised he chose that as it will be blocking his small veggie garden behind it! The tree if it stays like yours wouldn't be too bad, but that windchill might get it if he don't wrap it! I was thinking of adding a satsuma now that I have seen yours! I can put it on the same fence the lemon is and a small brown turkey fig is! I might have as good luck with it as my lemon tree! I just need to find a source that can send the satsuma to Florida!
I bought my satsuma tree from briteleaf It took years but it’s now big and had over 100 delicious satsumas last year! It has all kinds of flowers today! I live in Pensacola Fl.
@@kimberlylee1329 excellent! My Meyer lemon tree has hundreds of flowers so I have to do some pruning of the root stock as it tries to take over.
My neighbor has a very small satsuma tree that didn't do too bad through the cold but it has a few years before fruiting!
Best of luck with yours! One person I know covers his orange trees with blankets and puts mini Xmas lights under the cover and it has minimal frost affect.
Great video and the fruit look delicious and beautiful!
Thank you!
We have Brown select, and the Owari. Owari is sweeter. I'm in zone 8A also. 12 years. They produce like crazy every other year. Winter before last. We did not try to protect becauses of their size. They got burn back. The next season. they had maybe 3 . This year they are loaded. Need to water in summer if it has been dry.
Thank you for your experience. Where do you live roughly?
Love the videos. Keep them coming. I'm in zone 8a in Dallas and now I want to try the owari :)
Excellent! You can definitely grow satsumas in a protected micro-climate like I am on the south wall of my house. Look into Owari and Brown’s Select. Don’t get suckered into Arctic Frost. It is no hardier, or possibly less hardy, than Owari and it is COVERED in brutal thorns whereas Owari is thornless. Owari is the gold standard of satsumas, and Brown’s Select is similar but ripens 2-3 weeks sooner. It is key in our climate to buy citrus that ripens in October or November. I’ve heard good things about Southern Belle, or something like that from Stan McKenzie.
We can’t grow most citrus because most varieties ripen in January and February. Our trees must be harvested and dormant by then. So earliness is key. Thanks for watching!
I live in South Louisiana 8b, almost everybody has these in their yards. They should grow great for you.
They fruit for us in the fall. The saying around here goes they are sweeter after the first frost
The kids love them because they peel and separate so easy. I make marmalade with them when we have eaten all we want.
Jessica Perez thanks for the info. A lot of these citrus plants are marginal in 8b and can’t survive in 8a. An 8b that sees 19 degrees is a far cry from an 8a that sees 11 degrees. But the tree sailed through this winter. Luckily, we had a 9a winter this year (minimum was 22.8 degrees) so the tree will be very established going into next year. I think I made a good microclimate!
I grew a gorgeous Kimborough from McKenzie here in oregon it was important to site the tree on a south facing brick wall. The fruit was sour the first five years but got sweet & luscious after that. she’s exposed ti all weather no blankets or lights
Hmm I have had lots of store bought mandarins that peeled easier than that.
Thanks for this video. With any luck my Owari tree will bloom next year.
Storebought mandarins are several days, possibly weeks, old before you buy them. Because they're no longer fresh, they've evaporated quite a bit. Because they have dried out some, the skin will pop off more easily. Fresh citrus right off a tree is at maximum juiciness, so they won't peel quite as easily as grocery store produce since it's pretty old by the time we buy it. Fresh citrus doesn't peel much easier than this.
Very helpful as I just purchased 2 miho Satsuma on sale today😁
Glad it was helpful! Thanks for watching!
We had some nights in the upper 20's. the fruit did not have any damage. One year I thought I picked all of them. But missed one. In January. I found it. It had many nights of being below freezing. But it was still good.
That's amazing. I think these are really special fruits. I was in Trader Joe's today and what was in stock was little totes full of Satsumas! This will be the only time they're available. After they're gone, it'll be back to thick- skinned, mediocre commercial citrus!
@@TheMillennialGardener They want $3.78 per per bag in Louisiana. At WalMart.
Charles Coker that sounds reasonable. I think they were $3-4 at TJ’s for 2 or 3 lbs. $1.50-2/lb for fresh, in-season specialty citrus isn’t bad.
Peel has a lot uses too. Beautiful fruit.
Thank you!
Great video...in the Zone 8A, the key for in ground planting is by the brick wall facing south. The young tree need more protection when the night temp drops below 20F, but the mature tree will do fine aroud 15F without protection. Mine is about 10' tall, and produced more than 400 fruits last year. THey do get sweeter over time, though I always pick them after first frost, usually in December. Yummy...By the way, leave miners are not that much of a problem, scales are...
I am planting 4 more trees in ground without the protection of a south-facing wall. We'll see how it goes.
@@TheMillennialGardener In your area, you should be fine, with some severe cold winter protection. I live in Zone 8 as well, I usually use tarp fenced around the tree with 60 watts light bulb under the tree for the nights, which are few and far between.
I saw the first ones in western Georgia, I am close to Savannah. Will definitely be getting some as they are very good to eat.
You can definitely grow these if you're near Savannah. They'll do even better by you than my way. Thanks for watching!
Hey, I was just wondering if you got your trees? I have a small 10 acre farm about 50miles NE of Columbus GA and am interested in growing some fruit trees. Where are you planning on purchasing your trees or can you recommend a nursery in GA? Or must I order and purchase online? Thank you for any suggestions!
@@empathy212 look into a website called Georgia Grown Citrus. They have a lot of very new freeze hardy varieties. They have a new irradiated improved Ichang that I really wanted but they can’t ship them outside of GA thanks to the citrus quarantine rules.
@@empathy212 Sorry so long in answering. Just been BUSY :)
How far are you from Adel? The Garden Center at 527 Wells Ave. has most what you want plus he is very knowledgeable of them.
Waiting for my tiny little tree to get this big!
thanks for the tips. i have a satsuma same size. would you recommend shortening that long branches? to create harder main branches and taller structure to handle fruits in the long run.
After waiting about ten years for my satsuma to produce I had about 8 satsumas. My neighbor picked them when they were green and said here are your limes!!! I couldn’t believe he did that. He didn’t believe they were satsumas and tasted it. Immediately spit it out! Haha!
Appreciate the video. I know in the Southeast US in a so-called "subtropical" climatic zone, we are prone to more arctic blasts that will wipe out native vegetation even. Other humid subtropical areas at our latitude don't have this issue. It's unfortunate but watching this video, there is hope for us who want to grow subtropical crops that taste good.
Unfortunately for us, North America extends land mass all the way to the Arctic Circle, so Canada is effectively a land bridge that allows Arctic air to pass to lower latitudes unencumbered over frozen ground, which doesn't mitigate the temperatures. For South America, Australia, Africa and Europe, polar air has to travel over an ocean for a long period of time, which mitigates temperatures. Those of us in North America and in East Asia don't have that luxury, so we get walloped by these cold snaps unlike the other four continents I mentioned. North America has the shortest growing season per degree of latitude, making it the most front-prone continent on Earth ☹
Basically, we get all of the brutal tropical heat and humidity with none of the winter time mitigation. West coasts of continents generally have the opposite effect, where they get the mitigating effects of oceans that make them warmer in the winter and cooler in the summer. No fair, I say! Although, boy is Western Europe being walloped with cold this year. Spain, Italy and Greece are seeing deep, hard freezes in places where it sometimes doesn't even frost in most years. Madrid is getting temps in the teens and feet of snow. Wild stuff.
Facts! You broke it down flawlessly and this is what makes growing crops stressful in NC. For example, Raleigh (I live here) is said to be zone 7b in hardness on the cusp of zone 8a (they said with the new 1991-2020 average temp figures, we may be a solid 8a in hardiness). The problem with zone 8 in the southeast is that temps in the tens are very marginal for even the hardier citrus varieties (most are hardy only temps down to 12F at best) that are halfway edible. Plus, Raleigh has had zone 7 and the record low there is -9F, recorded in 1985. Given how unstable and weak our polar vortex is in the northern hemisphere and how arctic oscillation is a high risk in this hemisphere, this may be possible again. Now they got this fruit called the Prague Citsuma that supposedly is hardy close to 0F and tastes decent, maybe that can be grown here in piedmont NC. However, I have to try it myself taste wise.
@@iamcevven my general rule of thumb is to assume we're half a hardiness zone colder than we actually are and protect accordingly. I do not trust this climate. Also, the rising temperatures are not what they seem. If you look at how measurements are being taken that are showing climactic warming, you'll find the rise in temperatures are in the "lows," but it's due to where weather stations are being placed. Weather stations are overwhelmingly being installed in urban heat islands, and they're reflecting warming at night that doesn't exist outside of the heat island. The warming that occurs in Raleigh doesn't happen if you're not living in the heat island. If your zip code is Raleigh, but you live in the suburbs in a neighborhood, you're not going to see that effect. So, keep that in mind when you hear those reports of increasing hardiness zones. It isn't really the case because weather stations aren't being populated in rural areas, so the heat island locations are skewing the numbers.
@@TheMillennialGardener Yeah I actually noticed that when I seen that Clayton (28F), which is southeast of Raleigh (31F) , has lower winter lows from 1981 to 2020 than Raleigh. One would think Clayton will be warmer because it's south of Raleigh, but that is not the case. Clayton is a small suburb and very little heating remains at night there relative to Raleigh, Durham, or even Fayetteville.
But yeah I agree with you going half a zone lower. While Raleigh often doesn't get into the single digits - it usually gets at least very close to it. Most years it gets as low as the low teens, which marginal for even the hardiest of citrus. Matter of fact you have way more zone 7a/b winters in Raleigh than you have zone 8b or 9 winters since they took records. Plus, as arctic oscillation increases as the poles heat up, that polar vortex is going to go down further south in North America like it did numerous times in the past and I predict Raleigh will see subzero temperatures (zone 6 winters) again like they did in the 80's. In the 1980's, I heard thousands of palm trees (i.e. Washingtonias, Butias, CIDP's) were wiped out due to extreme cold in the Southeast - and all were left were native palmettos...and many of them were damaged. Even many citrus plantations were wiped in Florida in the 1980's. The polar vortexes in 2014, 2015, and 2018 killed off a lot of vegetation as well.
Your videos have inspired me. I'm trying to grow some citrus here in the UK on the South Coast we are zone 9a/b so it should be warm enough in the winter for a lot of citrus the problem is because we are almost 51° North so we are a good chunk further north than the US/Canada border so we get very mild summers and a lot of rain and overcast days I'm trying a Persian lime, a meyer lemon and a satsuma no idea of the variety
Great video, thanks. I have a small Owari planted in ground (trunk base diameter is 1 and 3/4 inches) 2 years ago, and need to move it and have decided to move it into a container and am wondering if that can be done safely - I am in zone 8b about 60 miles north of the Gulf Coast in MS. Since it is October 21, have I waited too late in the year to do this? Or would it be better to transplant in ground rather than container? Thanks for your very informative channel.
Awesome, I'm about to add an owari and miho variety
This Owari was great. You won’t be disappointed!
Got a miho as well recently. Dark green plant. Stock built and I'm hopeful in a year or two I'll be eating and sharing the fruit.
Thanks for a great video! If I were to propagate a Satsuma with a cutting, does the cutting inherit the cold hardiness from the mother plant or is it the trifoliate root stock that provides the cold hardiness? Are grafted trees only cold hardy?
Merci pour ce partage 👍
You’re welcome. Thank you for watching.
HA! I moved from Riverside Ca (where the orange industry started) to se NC and I saw this video wondering if it could help me here. A few seconds into this video I get confirmation
You can do it here, but it's nowhere near as easy as where you used to live. The Arctic blasts we get in the winter can be devastating. Our coldest night of the year is usually 15-20+ degrees colder than our average low at that time, so we have to stay much more vigilant here. Microclimates are everything here on the southeast coast.
Looks like a larger version of a Mandarin in Australia called imperial. They are a fantastic, especially for kids,citrus. For a tree so young it produced well.
That sounds familiar. Much of the citrus we get in our summers are imported from Australia. What’s wild is the grocery prices I saw when I was in Sydney and Cairns. I think the citrus sold here in the US that is imported from Australia is actually cheaper than when in Australia! I think we are buying all your fruits 🤣
@@TheMillennialGardener probably prices are a bit more here, depending on drought, storms etc.. although the basic per hour pay is quite high here. Cherries, plums, grapes and citrus are USA imports in our off seasons. Hope your citrus tree keeps getting better and better.
mr ed I wish Australia would start exporting some kangaroo meat. I bought some roo tenderloins and grilled them and they were out of this world. They made some of the best tacos I have ever had.
Thank you, did you do a more recent video on this tree? I couldn't find it, wanted to know if you did any winter protection at all. Thanks.
Oh yes, I have many videos on it. It's easier to navigate to the channel and use the search bar. I have a video on winter protection here:
th-cam.com/video/62ZM615RBdc/w-d-xo.html
I also just posted this video a couple weeks ago showing the tree now: th-cam.com/video/DWu2EQXVZto/w-d-xo.html
@@TheMillennialGardener Thanks!!
Please do a update video on the Owari Satsuma, curious to see the progress.
Rizwan Maher this fruit ripens for me in November/December, so I will provide an update then. The fruits are still green, but a couple are just starting to show a little yellowing. A good sign.
What are your thoughts on attic frost satsuma? I’m deciding what to buy for zone 7, I’ll probably keep it potted in my sunroom which gets quite cold.
I haven't seen any reports of Arctic Frost actually being any hardier than Owari or Brown's Select, and Arctic Frost is a thorned variety with inferior fruit to the other two. I grow Owari and Brown's Select, and I'm very happy with them both. I don't think there is enough real world information out there to know for certain if Arctic Frost is really worth it and has any real advantages over the other two I mentioned. It is possible it's hardier, but it hasn't been widely adopted by enough growers to really know, and a thorned satsuma like that isn't attractive to me when the others are so good.
Literally a couple hours north of you in NC in the triangle! I just bought my tree from a local nursery. I hope my satsumas thrive as nicely as yours did!
Mich Sykes hey neighbor. Are you keeping yours potted, or are you planting it in ground? If you try in ground, you’ll need a little more protection in the triangle area. I’m really pushing the limits of the tree. You’ll want to be extra careful.
Hey, Mich! Where did you buy yours from? I'm also in the triangle area in NC. Thinking about growing this in a container. How's your plant doing? Any advice or things you wish you knew at the beginning?
@@TheMillennialGardener Hey dude! Keeping them potted for the time being. I'm hoping climate change will be in my favor and ideally, in a year or two, after my young satsuma owari is older, I can safely plant it in the ground. Of course agfabric will be used if it gets colder. I went down to Stan McKenzie and got a seto orange tree and it has oranges on it right now!
@@kellytakeda429 Hey! Sorry about the late reply. I got it it from Rabbit Ridge Nursery, in Coates NC. I also got a seto satsuma orange tree when I was in SC at the beach, at McKenzie farms, like he mentioned in the video. The gentleman was really nice and informative of citrus care. I just got it back in April, they're still in pots, and winter is looming, so this is where I'll be tested! haha
@@michsykes8901 awesome! Thanks for the details and I can't wait to hear how the winter goes for you.
Hello thank you for sharing your videos I didn’t know that this cold hardy citrus exist did you purchase this in one gallon or larger would it survive in zone 7A north jersey
Thanks Isaac
This would not survive in Zone 7a. The Satsuma is really a Zone 8b minimum fruit, but you can grow it in Zone 8a in micro-climates, like the southern exposure of your house like I am. Where you live, you would have to keep it in a container. However, if you get a trifoliate grafted satsuma, it's a really easy container citrus because it is more resistant to root rot. Root rot is a big challenge for container-grown citrus.
If you are interested in growing in-ground citrus, there are some more bitter, seedy varieties you can grow. They won't be the best tasting, but you can use them for juice, for rind or as a lemon or lime substitute.
Trifoliate oranges are hardy to Zone 5. You can grow trifoliate orange unprotected, easily. It is a very thorny bush and the fruit is very bitter, but you can use the juice for lemonade and it makes a very beautiful ornamental when pruned properly.
You may be able to grow Ichang Papeda, Citrandarin or Citrangequats up against the south side of your house in-ground. Here are some great varieties for you to research:
en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cold-hardy_citrus
They won't be the best tasting, but they can be semi-edible raw, good for cooking, good for alcoholic mixers, or just an awesome ornamental. Note that anything on that list (except for trifoliate orange), you would have to protect the first 3 years until it is established, and each year the tree will benefit from some protection.
I think Gary Hollar at Gary's Nursery in New Bern, NC, grows and sells Dunstan Citrumelo unprotected in his yard. It survived the snow and ice storm of January 2018, and I think he came close to 0F at his property and it was totally fine. Check out his Facebook page "Gary's Nursery".
I had a Poncan Mandarin tree in north Texas and the fruit turned orange in mid-december but was still way too tart. I picked the last one off the tree in late january and it was finally sweet. Maybe you picked yours too early?
Not so warm winters in Texas anymore now that global warming is changing our climate. Past 3 winters have been in the single digits to about 15 degrees. Then again my part of Texas is 8A
I have a satsuma tree in the ground and it died back last year cause of frost, it came back this summer should I put it back in a pot
How are your satsuma fruits so darn big!? I’m jealous 😆
It's a grafted Owari on a trifoliate hybrid rootstock. Owari is a top notch satsuma, it's on a rootstock that promotes heavy bearing, I fertilize it a lot and it's in really great, sandy loam with a lot of compost and mulch.
@@TheMillennialGardener wish i could get my hands on the same tree, my local nurseries are out of stock on all citrus trees… keep up the great videos, they are awesome!
Nice spot, nice tree. Could satruma Owari endure 6 or 7 inches of ground freeze?
For 6-7 inches of ground freeze to occur, it sounds like to me you'd have to be in Zone 6b or 7a. That is too cold of a zone. The minimum zone to have success with an Owari without substantial protection - like a real greenhouse - is Zone 8, and the ground doesn't freeze significantly in Zone 8 outside of very rare 30-year events, and even then, it's not going to freeze to 6-7 inches.
For Fuerteventura in the Canary Islands, very windy sub tropical island. Winter at night can drop as low as 55f but jump up to 70f in day time. Very volcanic red clay type soil, near coast , . But always windy. Can i grow easily a blood orange and lemon tree? Will will dry strong winds damage trees? Will Alkaline soil need to be moderated? And whats your tips for mealy bugs ?
I would think the Canary Islands would be a fantastic place to grow citrus. The climate is very similar to a Mediterranean climate and should be perfect. Citrus are pretty resistant to wind, especially if you purchase a dwarf grafted variety because it stays low to the ground. Citrus are a major crop in Florida where hurricanes are severe, so they should do well with regular ocean breezes. Citrus prefer soil pH between 6.0-7.0. If your soil is alkaline, you may need something to help acidify the soil. Elemental sulfur is excellent. If you can't get sulfur powder or sulfur prills, fertilizing regularly with coffee grounds should help a lot, which I'm sure you can get lots of given your amazing climate. I think you can grow incredible citrus in your area.
I didn't know that trifoliate was deciduous...that's really wild if it is. I might have fun with a trifoliate or flying dragon varietal as a bonsai. If I could get it to go dormant, it'd be easier to handle during the winter (like my fig trees). Very curious to see if your tree drops its leaves this winter and springs back when it warms up.
NM Nate it’s true, the trifoliate orange is deciduous. That’s why they’re so cold hardy. They lose their leaves and go to sleep just like an oak tree. Evergreen trees simply can’t be as hardy.
When you graft to trifoliate, your scion tree becomes hardier because of increased dormancy. However, they won’t lose their leaves. My satsuma will not lose its leaves unless it is burnt back by a bad freeze. In that case, the tree will drop its leaves in self-preservation, but it isn’t normal and there will be some damage.
I do have a trifoliate orange planted outside in the front yard as an ornamental and I can confirm most of the leaves have turned golden brown and dropped. It is deciduous for sure.
Thank you for sharing, I only wish I could grow one inground, but I'm in zone 6B, therefore I would have to be worried if it would survive for me here.
You can always grow them in containers. I know containers are a bit of a headache, but it's worth having one or two if you're a citrus lover.
If you want the cool look, you can grow a Trifoliate Orange as an ornamental completely unprotected. They're Zone 5 hardy, so they'll sail through your climate. You can also look into growing an Ichang Papeda or a Rusk Citrange, which are hardy to 0F when mature. You can plant one against the south wall of your home and cover it in Christmas lights and a plant jacket in the winter if you're up for a challenge!
I live in 6b,and had success in growing a Calamandon orange in ground with winter protection under a frame with a small heater on cold nights.
@@timothykissinger4883 I’m in 6b too ty for the idea
Try to plant a Yuzu (Citrus junos), a Thomasville citrangequat or a kumquat also. They are also hardy in zone 8b (maybe a) and edibles.
I've looked into those, but the Yuzu isn't edible and only used for rind and juice in Japanese cooking, and I've heard the Thomasville citrangequat is quite seedy. Stan McKenzie carries them both. I considered the Thomasville citrangequat, but then I thought...why not just get a Brown's Select satsuma instead? They're about as hardy, but seedless and very early. I'm undecided what my final goals are. I think next year I will be adding a bush-type Meyer Lemon in the gap between my satsuma and avocado. I know they're a 9a plant, but I think it'll survive if pruned to a low bush in that microclimate.
I think Yuzu can survive to Zone 7b when mature. I would have to try one somewhere. The problem with these hardy citrus is they're so tough to find and taste to see if you'd like them.
Does this variety is a slow grower? My owari is at the same height for 1 year now and no new branch. Only new leaves growth so far and gave 3 fruits
Hey what part of Carolina you live in, I'm around the Columbia area
I'm in Brunswick County 10 minutes outside of Wilmington.
Hi, how long it’s takes for your Satsuma from bloom till fully ripen? I lived in Seattle and planting its in the gallon bucket I put inside houses next to the patio doors and it’s taking about 8 and half months from blooming to fully ripen, about 5 months I leave outside under my patio roof cause weather are warm. It’s started blooming around in the middle of March of 2021 and I just picked it yesterday. I think I’m going to put it into the ground just like u do and adding Christmas lights with blanket. It’s seem not growing fast in the bucket, I think in the ground it’s growing more better.
Under normal conditions, a satsuma will bloom around March/April as a trigger from the cold stress of winter, and be ready for harvest sometime in November. This will not happen in Seattle, because there aren’t enough heat units in the season. In Seattle, sweet citrus take 2 seasons to ripen (lemons and limes grow better in Seattle for this reason).
Sweet citrus growers usually have to wait until the following September-April to harvest their fruits. If your satsumas flower in April, I would expect a harvest in 18-24 months. You need to basically allow 2 year’s worth of crops of populate the tree. This video will be helpful for you, as will his channel since he shares your climate: th-cam.com/video/pZ_UJe9hbqM/w-d-xo.html
You can get around this problem with a greenhouse to build heat units.
@@TheMillennialGardener thanks for the advise.
Do you think it would survive Massachusetts? If i cover them and put lights inside like you do during the winter.
Probably not. You'd have to have it covered 4-5 months a year, pretty much non-stop. There would be a lot of opportunities for error. If you were to try, I would tell you to try something like a Yuzu tree instead, since it is about 10 degrees hardier than a satsuma. Would I try if I lived in MA? Yes, because it would be a fun experiment, at least.
I'm confident I could keep it alive in zone 7b in ground with the right protection. My concern is if I can get ripe fruit from it being in ground. Will the fruit itself survive the 20s Farenheit?
The problem with citrus is that the fruit tends to be less hardy than the trees themselves. Citrus fruits tend to get damaged somewhere in the 25-27 degree range, so if your tree is loaded with fruit, you need to keep it warmer than 25F. This is why satsuma's are so popular in the Southeast. Satsuma's ripen in the fall, unlike most traditional citrus that ripen in the winter. Something like a Brown Select satsumas will ripen in early November in the Southeast, which is ideal for you, because chances are you don't start getting frequent hard freezes until December. Owari is one of the later satsumas. Brown Select will give you a better chance by being 2-3 weeks earlier than Owari, so you can get the harvests before the bad freezes come in. It'll be a piece of cake to keep your tree warmer than 25F in Zone 7b during November in most normal years.
Great Video, I have a satsuma plant which gave its first fruit, I did harvest few fruits but it’s not super sweet. It has that tart flavor. Is this normal or is there anything that I can do to get more sweeter fruit?
This is a product of two things:
1. You're harvesting them too early and/or
2. Your tree is still too young.
If your fruit is very tart, you're harvesting them too early and the sugars haven't developed enough yet. The longer you allow them to sit on the tree, the sweeter they'll get. That being said, very young trees lack the ability to develop high quality fruit, and the tree will produce much better fruit as it ages.
@@TheMillennialGardener thank you for your response, we bought the plant in June 2019, this is it’s first crop. I left few as a reward, harvested them in December and have few more left will see if I can keep them for couple more weeks before harvesting. It’s is not totally tart, around 90% sweet and that last 10% tart. But very juicy
@@dolly278 if it is ripening well, a lot of that tartness will leave as the tree ages.
I'm in zone 9B and would like to grow one of these in a container. Would I be able to do that? Can I grow it in a tree shape? What size container would you suggest? Love your videos. Thank you for making them😎🌵
Thank you, I appreciate it! I have a question. If you’re in 9b, why not grow it in ground? 9b is the perfect, ideal climate zone for citrus. Any citrus tree will perform so much better in the ground than a container.
I live in a condo 2nd floor. Balcony is my only option.
Janet Solanik that makes perfect sense. I would recommend a few things:
1. Make sure the rootstock is trifoliate rootstock. The reason why is trifoliate rootstock dwarfs the tree, so it’ll survive better in containers. Trifoliate is also resistant to root rot, and growing in containers has a risk of overwatering.
2. Citrus needs to be incrementally up-potted. You shouldn’t plant a small tree in a large container. If you were to buy a 3 gallon tree, up-pot it to a 7 gallon container. Then move to a 15 gal after it totally fills out the 7 gal. I think a good final container would be anywhere from a 20-25 gallon container to a half whiskey barrel, but it will take years to get there. I recommend getting a dolly for the base once the containers get large so you can wheel them around.
3. Use a fast draining potting mix specifically made for citrus.
4. Satsumas are a little more difficult for containers because they grow in a “weeping” habit and not upright like most citrus. Pruning is a little more challenging, but still totally doable. They just won’t look as perfect as something like a blood orange or Meyer lemon. You have to prune everything to a single stem tree form.
Janet Solanik this is a great guide for pruning citrus. The first cut in a container will be a heading cut - decapitating the tree at about 12 inches into a single stem, but if you buy a tree it may have already been “headed.” Mine was. You have to make that judgment call. You’ll clearly see if the central leader was removed when you buy it. You want your tree to have an open center.
www.fftc.agnet.org/library.php?func=view&id=20110728125945
Hmmmm, this sounds like a bigger project than I am able to handle. I don't have the muscle power to up pot to those larger containers when the time comes. Perhaps it best to consider a different plant. I really do appreciate your time and all the information in your replys. Thank you.
nice video , does the guy ship trees ??? i'm very interested in getting one
Stan McKenzie will ship trees to non-citrus quarantine states. You will have to call him, though. He does not have an online store. If you order over the phone, he'll ship right away. His farm is McKenzie Farms in Scranton, SC. It'll come up on Google Maps.
Hello does your satsuma have thorns? My does I have been reading that they aren’t supposed to have thorns.
Rino Cefaloni some varieties of satsumas have thorns, and some don’t. My variety is Owari and it is thornless. I recommend Owari.
the peppers plant distract me , she's looking so pretty
We had a really mild winter last year and that pepper plant survived deep into December. Maybe even January. My satsumas are turning orange now, so I should have a follow-up on my tree in a few weeks. The haul this year will be incredible!
How long does it take for fruit to ripen? o.o I've had my Owari since last february. It grew fruit at the end of summer but the fruit didn't start ripening until about 2 months ago.... buuuut the fruits don't seem to be ripe just yet.
In my climate, Owari ripens in mid to late December. My tree may become earlier as it matures. If you live in a warmer climate like Florida where there is more fall heat, it's known to be a November ripener. I picked up a Brown Select a couple weeks ago because it's supposed to ripen 3 weeks earlier than Owari and is supposed to be a good performer in the Carolinas for that reason.
Since your tree is young, it is going to be a bit wonky at first. It'll regulate and settle down. Grafted citrus tend to fruit too much too soon for their own good, so they tend to take a long time to ripen while they're young because they overproduce and put too much stress on their immature root system. As the tree ages, the roots and wood will catch up and each year, your tree will get earlier and earlier. If ripening issues persist, you can remove some fruits to speed up the process, but I urge you to be patient the first 2 years and let the tree hit its stride. Grafted fruit trees usually take 3-4 seasons to really get going.
@@TheMillennialGardener I'm up in Seattle area. o3o Thanks for the detailed reply
In 20 years you'll get the best tasting orange
They're already fantastic. I had a huge yield this past December: th-cam.com/video/eOH9RcsIplA/w-d-xo.html
where did you get you tree ???
My tree is from McKenzie Farms in Scranton, SC. Most of my citrus trees are from there.
My small Owari mandarin have bumps on them. Some look round and flawless, but many are bumpy and unappealing. Is this normal? I know they are kinda irregular when fully developed so maybe this is normal? First year fruiting, second year owning. Thank you!
I'm not sure what you mean by "bumps." Satsumas are not round and smooth like a navel orange. They are squat, and they are somewhat lumpy. The skin pops right off and is very thick.
@@TheMillennialGardener I can see the texture within the skin and the ribs starting to form, but some have round BB like bumps randomly developing within the outer skin layer. The fruit are about the size of a quarter.
This fruit looks very much like what the Chinese call Pongan, which is grown in southern China and is very sweet. The pongan produces a larger crop very alternate year, and I don 't know if that 's the case for the Sasuma.
The Satsuma Mandarin comes from China, so all satsumas are going to look somewhat similar. They're all going to have a lot of similarities, so I suggest choosing the varieties that ripen best in your climate and can survive any cold you may have. For me, that's Brown's Select and Owari because they're early enough that they'll ripen here and the most cold tolerant.
I have a question Owari Satsuma it's the same as Satsuma. Because some nurseries only sell Satsuma dwarf, not Owari Satsuma
Do you know if these will ripen with daily highs in the 50’s and upper 40’s?
Citrus are evergreen and never stop growing. Yes, they will continue to ripen, but it will be very slowly. If you live in a location where it’s in the 50’s in early November as a high, you’d probably want an earlier satsuma than Owari. Otherwise, you’ll either want to erect an enclosure around it to warm things up, or let the fruit hang on as long as possible. In places like the PNW, sweet citrus can take 18-24 months to fully ripen due to the cool days.
@@TheMillennialGardener My average November temperatures are High: 63 Low: 42 and December High: 54 low: 35. So you can see the transition into December is where I start to lose a lot of heat.
I have a Satsuma tree but Im not sure what variety fruit I have? How can I identify which Satsuma Sub-Type I have?
I don't think you can. There are many varieties, and most are extremely similar. After you pick the fruit, they blend together. You'd have to have some type of genetic testing done on the tree itself to figure it out, and I'm not sure how you go about doing that.
I took some mandarin cuttings from a local supermarket and I live in zone 7b can they grow?
Not without substantial protection. Not all mandarin oranges are as cold-hardy, so it would be highly dependent on the variety. However, the only variety I know of that could possibly tolerate 7b is the Changsha mandarin. Changsha isn't going to be sold commercially, because the seed count is too high. If you want to grow citrus in 7b, I suggest looking into something like Yuzu, or ordering a grafted Changsha and protecting it. Owari *may* be possible in a southern 7b, but you must protect it.
Can I grow this in container in Apex North carolina?
Yes. You'll have to bring it indoors once temps drop below 26F or so. They aren't as hardy in containers because the root mass is exposed above-ground.
Is it suitable to cultivate on warm climate?
KING KHAN citrus plants need a warm climate. Most varieties cannot tolerate hard freezes. This is a rare variety that will tolerant some freezing temperatures, but most won’t. The warmer your climate, the better for most citrus.
@@TheMillennialGardener I have a big question about Satsuma.Which is better between Satsuma and Gold nugget for sweetness and flavour?Thanks in advance
I don't know that this is a guide as much as it is a description of your experience planting it.
Urban Outdoorsman if you follow the links in the video that pop up in the top right corner, it will take you all the way from me driving to McKenzie Farms in South Carolina to buy the tree, to a video of me planting it last spring, and then of course my first ever harvest. Between the 3 videos you’ll get a complete guide from start to finish.
What about kamaquats?
What about Zone 7B? I am in Monroe
I consider myself right on the very edge for where this tree can grow, and realistically, 1 in 4 or 5 winters here probably has the potential to kill the tree without some sort of protection. The short answer is where you live is too cold for this tree to grow in-ground out in the open, but the long answer is it may be possible with protection and daily monitoring of the temps. If you can plant it in a very protected area and you're willing to protect it every time it gets to 25F or colder, you can grow it, but you would have to commit to that. There are still 3-5 nights a year here where I protect the tree, and I suspect it'll be more like a dozen nights a year where you're at. Now, these also make excellent container trees, and that certainly can be done where you're at, especially if you have a sheltered patio or something.
Would you sell any seeds? The only ones I can find online are plants at comically high prices 😥
10K Subs No Videos where are you located? You probably do not want seeds. Seeds do not grow true to type, and a tree frown from seed will take 7-10 years to bear fruit. You definitely want a grafted tree.
@@TheMillennialGardener I'm from Pennsylvania. The cheaper ones I can find online are $70+ & Shipping
10K Subs No Videos yeah, that’s par for the course. A 5 gallon fruit tree is going to cost $90-100 shipped. That’s what I paid for my avocado.
Lowes and Home Depot will get some satsumas in in March or April in PA, but you won’t know what they’re grafted to. I recommend ordering from Stan McKenzie at mckenzie-farms.com/
He will ship it to you, and it’ll probably cost $75-100 with shipping, but it is worth it in my opinion. I drove there but it is only 2.5 hours for me. If not, you can wait 3 months for the big box stores to get them and cross your fingers. Personally, I’d recommend Stan.
@@teemomain8268 I know it’s been 9 months from when you posted this comment. If you haven’t gotten the tree yet, you can get it at Costco around may/June. Call just to be sure. But they sell it for around $20. Or you can order from Four Winds Grower. It’s $29 plus around $9 shipping. But the trees aren’t as mature as the ones sold at Costco.
Satsuma's have a spikes?
Do you mean thorns? That depends on the variety. Owari and Brown Select are thornless.
Any ideas on the Hamlin orange? Cold hardy seedless juicing orange, and they survive zone 8b once established
jamie herbert I don’t have experience with sweet oranges. I know Hamlin is classified as one of the hardiest sweet oranges, but I don’t think they’re nearly as hardy as a satsuma mandarin. You certainly can try, but you may want to pay careful attention to the rootstock the trees are grafted onto. I don’t know if a Hamlin is compatible with trifoliate rootstock, and I would think you’d definitely want trifoliate in 8b for the added dormancy.
I know Tim Armstrong here in Wilmington is growing Ambersweet, but in his recent presentation has stated they haven’t fruited for him yet. Ambersweet is notorious for taking forever to fruit. If Ambersweet can be grown here in 8a, maybe Hamlin can as well. But I can’t guarantee it.
Any chance of getting a tree to Denmark?
I cannot ship trees internationally from the US. Citrus are extremely popular in Europe, particularly in Italy and Spain. I would think they'd be the best chance for shipping.
@@TheMillennialGardener yea,have 5 in mine backyard and i see them everywhere here
I can only grow trifoliate citrus. It gets down to minus 12 degrees Fahrenheit where I’m at....
Take a look at hardycitrus.blogspot.com/ There may be something else you can grow for fun. -12F out in the open may mean 0F with a little protection up against your house like I do, and then you can start messing with some hybrids.
My lows can get down to 10F, but up against my house, it isn’t hard to stay in the 20’s during the worst cold snaps.
bro which u recommend me....washington navel vs satsuma....sweet hardy etc
They're very different.
Satsumas are much more cold hardy than Washington navel oranges. Washington navels are one of the more cold hardy citrus varieties, but they don't compare to a satsuma. If you are in Zone 8a like I am, and see temperatures in the teens every winter, a satsuma like Owari or Brown Select is a better choice.
Satsuma's are zipper-skinned and segmented. The skin pops off, and the citrus breaks apart into wedges. Washington navels have a skin that is not easily detached, so you have to cut them into segments.
Most satuma's ripen in the fall. Navels ripen in the winter.
Taste preference is your call. They both taste different. I think satsuma's are sweeter, and navels have more of a bite to them.
sir i am from India.....my states summer highest temperature is upto 100 Fahrenheit and average 89F
during winter months of December and january Minimum 54.1F.....average 65.9F.......what do u think Satsuma is perfect or not and also Fig recommend me for my area
hi
This from seed ??
No. It is Owari Satsuma scion grafted onto Trifoliate rootstock. Fruit trees don't grow true to type, so any seed you plant will be a new variety, likely with lower quality fruit. Usually, growers have to cross varieties and plant 1,000+ seeds to get a handful of good trees. If you want to grow a known variety, you'll have to buy a grafted tree or purchase budwood or scion wood and graft yourself.
@@TheMillennialGardener ok. Thank u
@@komunitaspetaningawur8005 thanks for watching!
Why does video start 6 minutes in?
Mmmmmmmm
Lmao oranges in Florida. You know a fungus has been killing off all the orange trees in Florida for years now right? I’ve had huge orange trees just die out of know where and also family friends who have had the same thing happen to them.
Red what you’re referring to, I’m sure is citrus greening, HLB, caused by an invasive citrus psyllid endemic to China. I consider this more a pest issue.
That being said, as with practically every problem in the agriculture world, it is a human-created problem due to monocropping. It gives these pests a concentrated area to feed and breed that never exists in nature. Forests are polyculture. It is difficult for pests to take hold in polyculture. I have been reading up on this problem, and it appears Florida growers are having success combating HLB using composting and interplanting techniques. Growing in monoculture and using injected synthetic fertilizers, the industry is getting crushed, but I watched a recent video where farmers are taking old groves and composting and refreshing the soil using organic methods and it is rendering HLB almost dormant. It cannot be cured, but it is suppressed to the point where it isn’t affecting the trees negatively. There is hope.
My whole life was a lie, i thought satsuma was actually a fictiv car name but i didn’t think that there are mandarines that are named satsuma
I believe the word "satsuma" is of Japanese origin. While citrus comes from China, satsuma mandarins were extremely popular in Japan, as are many varieties of cold hardy citrus. There is also a satsuma-imo sweet potato from Japan, which is incredible.
This is a variety that was imported to Japan several century ago from central China in the Yantze river basin. It has its own Chinese name, but somehow the Japanese name was made it here in the US.
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