The Mopar Ignition Solution! 4SecondsFlat.com's HRR688 Ignition Module Installed in a 72 Roadrunner
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 13 ก.ค. 2024
- If you're tired of buying cheap over the counter replacements for your classic Mopar or just want to update to the Best Ignition Module on the market, 4Secondsflat.com has your answer. The Hrr688 ignition module is one of very few designs available that will bolt in place of your stock ECU,has a built in Rev limiter, and will deliver consistent spark with a MADE in the USA guarantee for 5 years.
For more info: www.4secondsflat.com/
www.ebay.com/itm/FBO-Ignition...
Shipping to Canada $28 Europe and Australia $40.00 - ยานยนต์และพาหนะ
![fellow fellow - Proud [OFFICIAL MV]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/9uZF7BlUQPE/mqdefault.jpg)
I've ran one for the past years in my plymouth duster. Its a quality piece and has not let me down yet..
I used to use mopar orange boxes and a ballast resistor.
This kit eliminated the ballast which improved reliability , and honestly the car felt snappier driving.
GREAT PRODUCT for mopar guys
Joshua Miller thank you! I was hoping some people would chime in with their experience with the box. Eliminating the ballast is big. I’ve got one good orange box left, it’s probably 7-8 years old. The newer ones are junk. I’m definitely glad to have found this box!
Thought you said this eliminated the ballast resistor? But it doesn't, the drawing still has a resistor shown, as well as this guys has a ballast resistor.
I don't run a ballast resistor with my orange box and mopar electronic distributor. No problems for many years. It is a bit more snappy
A buddy of mine just bought a 69 440 roadrunner. Its a 1970 440 engine ,and asked me to work on it for him. He bought a Proform HEI kit fot it. I installed it and she fired right up , it came with a orange ignition box. Also rebuilt the carb , installed new front and rear floor pans and rebuilt the whole front suspension wit disc brake conversion. Adding power brakes and power steering. Enjoying working on this loe Mopar , going to be nice when done.👍👍
Excellent! Thank you for sharing. Sounds like a sweet car!
This is EXACTLY what I was looking for!! Thanks so much for taking the time Mopar Joe!
You got it! Awesome product and company! Sorry for the bad camera work. It was a new Amazon one that I ended up tossing. You can buy their harness for not much more and eliminate the ballast totally.
I never knew those existed. And I just watched dead Dodge garage do an hei conversion using GM ignition. Thanks for sharing this.
Also check out, Miller Ignition. I have a box of his to try soon. But it bolts in place of the stock box as well.
Congrats on 2k subs!
Thank you! I just saw that! 🎉
Always a great video! DYI information not a before and after photo shoot. Thanks for helping us gearheads out.
Thanks for watching brother! I hope to test this unit very soon!
Been looking at these lately. The rev limiter is a nice feature and fully made in USA.
Yes sir. Mopar folks have needed a quality ecu solution over the foreign made stuff that only works half the time. I’m still wanting to field test this for longevity and performance . One online claimed to have picked up .3 over an orange box 🤷🏻♂️
Now thats a way to check for spark! I've never seen it done that way. Very cool! I'm slowly running out of things that require a ignition box but I might have to try this one next I need one!
Thanks Duddie! I stole that idea from Uncle Tony. Only got shocked once👨🔧
Hi Joe, just ordered this set up from Don yesterday for my Coronet. I was sure to mention your video on the call LOL. I ordered the one where he is going to dial it in for me. I gave him all the specs of my new motor detailed information of the rear end and torque converter, cam etc. Dana said it would ship in 5 to 7 days priority. Can’t wait to get it installed and make my car a lot better. I’ll be referring back to this video during my installation for reference thank you Joe for the video
Awesome brother! It’s good stuff.
I installed this on my truck and also recommend it. Works as expected. I was going to an electronic voltage regulator (new electronics in the old style box) and this is compatible with that new style.
Thank you Conrad! I wanted to hear more real life testimonials on this. I'm going to test it at the racetrack soon vs an orange box and others.
Great job 👍 guys I appreciate all your Tips and video's keep up the great build
Thank you! I had to ditch this camera. It was funky
Can't wait for that 72 to roar! Whoo hooo! Mo Power!
Me too Brother!
Thats pretty cool to know that there is almost an exact OEM replacement made in the United States
Absolutely!
At least 4 years on mine. No issues.
Excellent!
Holy Guacamole! I would have kept my stock ignition and saved that MSD money! Great info.Thanks
Yes sir! Shoot me an email if you’re ever interested. I’m trying to test some more of his products on the channel!
Looks like a worthy piece. I’ll check them out.
Wow, this is a new level of spam.
What a cool way to set up the ignition with distributor out to test for spark. I have switched key on & had the cap off,turned the rotor by hand just enough for a reluctor tooth to pass pickup & it Shot Sparks All Over The Place,lol !
Yea sir. Be careful! It’ll light you up
I have a blue meanie too. I converted the lean burn to an older centrifugal and vac advance dizzy with a 70s $10 4 pin gm HEI module mounted to a 1/2 inch strip of aluminum as a heat sink (must use the included thermal compound paste between also) where it doesn't get wet to prevent the paste from washing out, standard spade terminals and a epoxy coil similar to 90s magnums with superstock spiral cores that you assemble for more volts to the plug then open the gaps.
I did that on the red sled. It works fine now, but I don’t think it’s the quality of this system. However, I’ll be trying them all at the racetrack 👍🏼
Thanks HOSS
Excellent install and test sir!
Thank you! I am sad I tried my new Amazon camera in this video. The film quality looked like it was from the 90’s.
@@JustMoparJoe Maybe that's why I like it so much. Older stuff, like me! Hey, wait a minute. I'm looking at my watch and it's what, 12:40 your time and you ain't runnin' down the dang track boy!
Helped me I was gonna make that call when needed lol no need now!
Yes sir! Glad to help! This is an awesome unit. I’m hoping to partner with 4secondsflat soon and test some products out for real!
Very good man! Got get me one! Probably two!
You’ve got my number! I’m going to test some more of the 4secondsflat stuff on my channel!
I just got mine in October and ran 12.90 from a 12.93. Starts easier and the rv limiter is awesome! One thing is im having a weird thing with my tach bouncing could be the tach.
TheSiren 1974 I’d try a different tach and then call them. Thank you for the real world results! I wish I could test this one at a track. The car doesn’t belong to me and I don’t think it will make it to a race track.
I purchased one of his kits probably about 8 or 10 years ago, could never get it to work. Spoke to don several times over the phone trying to diagnose the problem. Ended up sending the unit to florida if I remember correctly to have it diagnosed by some company he worked with on the box. They sent it back and said nothing was wrong with it. Funny this is, my challenger still has his harness installed on it, but is running with my original ecu. thats the thing, It would start & run fine with the original box. Plug in the new box...nothing, Would just crank & not fire. Finally gave up on it & chalked it up as a loss. Still running the original stuff. I just changed out the tach & added one with a big ass shift light.
Thanks James! I’m going to test this box against others at the track this year.
I imagine it's a great part - made in USA but a bit pricey for me . Another great video 😎🤘👍🏁
It really is! I’m going to test out several of his products at the drag strip and otherwise. I’m hooked. An msd box is over 300$ now. Coil is 50$ plus wiring harness. This beats that with a simple rev limiter and easy plug in on your existing system. Also a 5 year warranty on coil and ecu! I’m going to test one soon!
Good info and I've been hearing a lot about these units. Now they are on national backorder.. I have a 25 odd yr old orange box in 1 of my '79 300s, and a 6AL in the other, bought new back in '99. We know the weakest link is the resistor on each. Here's 1 thing I've read from people in the late model B body forum I belong to. The factory tach may not work with the HRR on 73-79 cars/trucks. It is recommended that u wire the tach directly like you have to when running a 6AL. We're not sure why it stops working with these in certain cars, and all MSDs but other than taking the dash apart and pulling the gauge, it's not all that hard to run ur own wires and u don't need a filter.
Thanks for the information!
Nice Thanks Joe!
Thanks for the support!
Much obliged guys
Thanks again
happy new year brother Ive read about these,supposed to me better than MSD
For 269$ it’s definitely worth a try!
the way that distrib setting remind me of a guy who got a Purple 71 Hemi Cuda convertible I met here in Florence Al. He set the distrib with a pully hook up with a belt to the crank pully to keep a better spark on the engine.
Hey that could work! Better have it spot on! This box is awesome!
LOL. sounds like something i would do to convert an efi engine to carb. yes, i am also from alabama!
Very awesome 👍
It’s a nice piece! You can wire that into a Chevy too 😉
That car is my son's favorite body style.
It’s a nice one now. Check out my playlist on it. It had some issues!
Nice video~ I've considered their box before but never pulled the trigger. I have their timing plate in a vehicle.
I have the plate too. Its great. Sure beats welding
318 I put a plate and springs in the red sled 360 I built. Really nice pieces. The company owner is a good guy. I believe he is a retired Mopar racer.
Thats pretty slick.
Thanks for watching! I shared it on your Facebook group. Hope it can help some Mopar folks out.
@@JustMoparJoe For sure dude.
Thanks for sharing 👍
I am gonna be grabbing some merch too buds!
Thank you! I’ve got it all on Teespring now under Justmoparjoe
I had considered one of these on my 76 RoadRunner build. But it still needs the resistor, MSD lets you get rid of it. Looks like a great piece, I have used their limitor plate for years in my race car.
This one forces you to bypass the resistor. That’s what the jumper is for. But you can also get a Harness that does, or use yours and a connector. They send the jumper so you don’t have to remove the resistor and can bolt on and go
@@JustMoparJoe Thanks for that. I will have to buy one and try it. I love my MSD but they are huge. Love the channel!
@@JustMoparJoe One more quick question. Do you know if this is multispark? I went and checked out the webpage and it doesn't list it as a feature.
@@Remow2112 I’m not sure. Check out Simpson’s speed shop. They dyno test this box against several others and it was a big hit!
@@Remow2112 th-cam.com/video/Bz7jommE_1w/w-d-xo.html
Hi Joe. I have installed 2 of those units on my Mopars, and they work fantastic! Don is amazing! Both of the kits came with a disc with different length slots that goes inside the distributor, for mechanical advance tuning. Did you get one in your kit? It is a great invention.
Sue, I’ve used the plate in other distributors. It did not come in the eBay kit. I can curve this distributor without it, but it’s an awesome kit!
Pertronix has three stock looking set ups and they match the coil to the system. Flame thrower one is a pure ignition coil and dizzy, flamethower two keeps the coil from exploding from the ignition left on without the car running. Stage 3 offers a dizzy, coil and its features have one and two plus a rev limiter.
6,000 RPM is red line for a 4" stroke bottom end. With aftermarket forged crank etc you can turn it up a bit.
Thanks for sharing. I will share this with you. The bronco that I just finished was swapped over to pertronix distributor and flame thrower coil. We are on the 3rd “igniter” as they call it, because two were faulty. 3rd times a charm. Don Gould made me a dealer for FBO products. I believe in them and have never had any issues.
@@JustMoparJoe That is a good way to go if you run GM HEI. The thing with Pertronix is the coil has to match the ignition being run. It comes down to ohms and I never knew much about till I started running the HEI series.
I do have a setup for stock looking dizzies. Its an aluminum plate you can tap the bottom of the dizzy and install. It holds the HEI.
That with this box here would be mad cats with the right coil.
OHMs are the trick to a good ignition and always be ready to switch back to points. EMP...
@@DobermansRock I dig it. I think that’s why FBO offers their 5 year warranty, only if you run the pertronix FT coil. Allegedly, they can tell if your box burned up from running the wrong coil. I have one good points distributor from a 69 satellite ready for action if need be.
@@JustMoparJoe Right on man. I ran an orange box way way back in the day. And of course an accel super coil. Points that coil is the right choice.
Today there are so many variables and they have been addressed. The coil OHMs have to work with the brain and the type of dizzy.
Never fall for snake oil and a lot of what is out there is overpriced stickers on components that are not upgrades.
I dig your channel and have learned a lot from you Joe. I am Joe as well. So much so I have taken notes watching your videos.
Building a 406 360 Magnum stroker. Had I known there was a LA roller cam 360. I would have searched that out. More heads and manifolds to pick from.
Going with a cast scat 4" crank, scat forged I-beam rods, Kieth Black 10.5-1 hyperucantspellit pistons, EQ heads from New Zealand.
I am stuck on what cam. Intake will be a Edelbrock air gap. Carb I am running a 625 Carter AFB comp on a 318 with a factory 4 bbl manifold. Hearing good things on Edelbrocks new AVS. Been told to shoot for a 750 cfm with the motor I am building.
UTAusome says stay with the stock roller lifters. I am down to the cam and everything going up to the see saw and down to the valves.
Going into my 1983 Ramcharger. Plan a 2" lift, Dana 60's front and rear (I have the rear with 4.10's) Also thinking if I can find a NP 205 T-Case. Yep It will be fun but not abused. The prices of the old Dodge trucks is jumping. 33" BFG's and a 6,000RPM red line. 5,500 starts the yellow.
No problema.
This guy and you Joe. Keep me informed. We are playing with math. Really really fast math.
th-cam.com/video/Vy2r3p-SOag/w-d-xo.html
Good job . Yes there is a video out there of a father and son showing the install . I don’t know the name of the video
Check out Simpson’s speed too. He dyno tested it
I use a Chrysler electronic distributor in my hotrod with and early 392 hemi and use a MSD 6AL2 ignition box....
Yea sir. That’s a good option. This one is designed more for a plug and play for the stock box. Simpson’s speed tests it on the dyno and sees 10 hp over an orange box
Good stuff man! You make this look way to easy haha..
Thanks brother! This video has blown up! This is an awesome piece and glad I got it for the blue bird!
Mopar Joe! Great video. Just a couple questions. With this FBO set up. Would a proform vac advance electric distributor work on this? And on a small block stock 360 4 barrel what would you set rev limiter too? Final question is what the longest you ran a stock ECU and ballast resistor set up?
@@danielpeterson446 thanks for the questions! I would absolutely skip the proform stuff and call “Firecore performance”, directly. I have some distributor videos from them, but I was able to get a discount for my viewers if you can call them directly and mention my channel. Super nice guy “Rick” can customize one for your setup. On a small block, I would would set the rev limiter to 5,400. There’s no need to Rev a stock engine more than that. As for a stock ecu, there aren’t as many in service anymore since they are 50+ years old now. The majority leaked the black insulation out the rear and have gotten water soaked. I don’t mind a good orange box and ballast resistor, but in recent years they started making them in China and they aren’t the same parts anymore.
@@JustMoparJoe sounds good! Thank you for your recommendation and info!
hey Joe! I sent you a g-mail. I bought one of these ignitions but my engine builder won't use it! We are going to start the 340 on the dyno. Its a solid roller cam w2 powerhouse. His concern is that it the rev limit is 7000 rpm. That means it won't allow 7k rpm so it will cut out at maybe 6950. If the power curve is still rising at 7k that will ruin our fun. Who knows maybe it will be all over at 6700? but we aren't going to take a chance. I have a pertronix ignitor 3 module now and they can rev to 9000 if needed. this module fits under the cap on a stock points distributor..
Moparmissile, it sounds like you’ve definitely outgrown this unit! I would be tempted to go msd or equivalent with that engine. I’ll be sure I’m subbed in case you can get some video up of it running! Mopar to you!
moparmissile try that email again. Justmoparjoe@gmail.com
Thanks for the advice, sure looks like an improvement.
PS. Buying a camera from a 1990s outlet was maybe not the way to increase the visual experience of this channel. :-)
🤣 thanks Ken. I tried my new Amazon camera that had great reviews. It’s trash.
I'm interested. But want to see reliability before I buy it. Messed up years ago, hooked the huge yellow Accel super coil up to Mopar Performance ignition with orange box. That coil fried ECU. Is this new ECU ONLY compatible with the Pertronix coil? Can you use an e core coil with it? Looking forward to next video.
Not sure Kentyn. This ecu does have a 5 year warranty, but only if you use the pertronix coil. I’m very interested in field testing this for an extended period as well. The owner is a good guy and answered all my questions.
Great video joe . Do you sell the just molar joe t shirts? If so where do I purchase them
Absolutely! Here’s 3-4 different options. www.etsy.com/search?q=Justmoparjoe%20
Great video Joe. Can you send me some pics of the ballast resistor wiring with the jumper wire installed. I can’t make it out on your video.
I’m sorry about that. That was a new Amazon camera and it was junk! On the ballast, you find the wire that’s hot when you turn the key on, plug on your included spade adapters, and then hook on your jumper wire. If that doesn’t help, send me an email at Justmoparjoe@gmail.com and I’ll get you pics
@@JustMoparJoe I emailed you.
Hey Joe, didn't you do a voltage regulator video? Quick Start QS8313 adjustable Voltage regulator?
I don’t think I did one specifically. I always use the black mopar one. It’s even working on my hemi swapped challenger, with that newer high amp alternator.
@@JustMoparJoe , this is for my '79 Power Wagon W150. There are many part #'s for the black Mopar boxes. I'm also running stock 60 amp alternator. None of the local store voltage regulators work properly. My batt., and alt. have equal charge. Voltage gauge drops to 10-8. I've by passed my ammeter. Any help's appreciated. Thank you for your rapid response. Voltage regulator has an ohm reading of 3.22?
Great video!!!!!
I'm not an expert in this topic, so i have one question
The advance timing is fixed?
Or is proportional to rpm?
Thanks Jos. The advance is built into the distributor mechanically by springs and the plate, and by vacuum, with the canister. Lighter springs will let you have more advance sooner. If using extra lightweight springs, vacuum advance is not used. It would potentially give you way too much timing and cause pinging.
@@JustMoparJoe oh
Thank you very much for the answer.
In my case i have a Chrysler spirit and its advance timing is controlled by the computer, but the computer isn't accurate, so I am trying to find a better option for my old module.
Have a nice day man
You can wire in a microsquirt and tune it yourself with tuner studio
Any issues with a factory tach? Good job!
Do you mean a tic tock tach? I think they run differently than an aftermarket
Hey Joe could you do a short video on how to replace a computer distributor in a 89 through 93 Ram with a 5.2L Magnum, With an HEI or an old school distributor?
I actually did an hei install on the Red Sled. Check it out in the playlists. It shows carb swapping an 88 d100. If it’s not clear there, check out 318 Will Run. He has a neat hei conversation video.
@@JustMoparJoe Thanks Joe, what I am wanting to do is, I have a 93 D 150 currently it has a 318 magnum, it also has all the computer driven electronics. Which I don't want. Is it possible to remove all of that and go back to maybe an 82, electrical system?
Hey when I go to put the FBO plate in the distributor should I remove the stock plate with the two holes in it that was or does it stay in there? I got one now I just need to install it, I’m hoping it works because I have the lean burner crap but later on down the road it’s getting ripped out, I’m wanting to try now and see if it works out for me hahahah
Hopefully this video explains it better. It’s a car done distributor, but I try to show the process more in depth. th-cam.com/video/dmEsPPzJZm0/w-d-xo.html
Thank you I’ll go watch it now 😎😎😎😎😎
Do you know where a ignition control module goes on a 1990 dodge w150 i bought one and no mechanic around me can put it in
I believe it’s under one of the front fenders. I think behind the battery. Kinda odd placement
So is this a performance unit does it change the dwell in timing
Paul I would have to call and ask Don Gould. I would think not.
Any idea if this would work for an 84 Plymouth with the 318
Absolutely will! You’ll need to be sure you’re getting a full 12v as needed.
Would this work on a 1978 dodge magnum XE? Has 360motor, also has points
It shouldn't have points because its that late of a year model, but it will work with any 4/5 pin style factory harness. I recommend their coil as well, to maintain the warranty.
Can I use that with a 83 Dodge Mirada 318 changing the lean burn ?
Definitely. I’m not certain if the distributor has the same pick up wires. Fbo sells a harness that will eliminate the ballast totally, if you want to check it out, I have a video installing it in the FBO plate kit video.
not bad
Thanks Art. My new camera filmed like it was from the 80’s 😩
Ive got a question i hope yiu can answer for me on the firewall of ny 1983 dodge b250 van theres 3 types of electrical boxes far left facing firewall is the voltage regulator then ignition box centrr thrn thered a third snall square like box looks like the black box on fire wsll in this video with whst looks like on yours yellow writing mine is silver no writing on mine what is that box in my firewall called an whsts it for
That one is the voltage regulator. He yellow writing on black box is the mopar brand name.
@JustMoparJoe why do I have 3 bo es on the firewall of my 83 dodge van 318 one on far left is a voltage reglator 3 pring plug in triangle shape thrn the ignition module in center it'd blur box wth a small heat sink built on top then over toward driver side is a silver box about the size of the black an yellow box you hdve I've even asked a mechanic an 3 parts store guys that works in shops an no one seems to know what this box is
Oh and also how is it performed compared to factory units
I haven’t started the car yet with it, but the comments of this video has been flooding with positive testimonials. With a 5 year warranty and a company in the USA, I wouldn’t be scared to try it for $269 for the kit! An MSD box is close to 300$ now and a coil is another 50$.
what is that black box mounted on firewall in between that module & the ballast resistors w/ the 3 wire plug in it(grn/blu/blk) ???
Alternator reg???
Yes. I only use the Mopar performance regulators. They are much better than the over the counter ones and actually provide correct voltage. Help prevent those fires!
@@JustMoparJoe I have a '78 440- 3 w/ a 4 barrel canuck carb on top of it, and a boig ol A727 AT behind it .... which all nests in the bottom,front of a '79 Fleetwood RV coach frame (E-25)
This one has all the original elect. modules (they look factory)
My ignition works, engine starts and runs fairly decent...notta 100%..but gettin there..
But my Alt-Reg box (Chrysler logo, low/left, Big "B6D" stamped really BIG, then small "2858{cannt read 5th #} A"
Apparently is ever-so-slowly melting all that fun rock hard, then turns to liquid rock goo that it's PCB is packed in, that shit turns back to rock when cooled... looks like years of petrified bird crap stained on the engines rear & trans bell housing
I haven't put enough miles on this RV to check out that part yet
Then there's the "Electronic Ignition Module" next to that, near a OBD1 port, and it too works, but looks like what Sly Stallone would look like after say..... _"Rocky XXII"
are there Modern replacements???...or conversions?
PS: LOLZ...the OBD1 port ya cant plug into because ports all slammed against the rear of engines doghouse cover frame (remove port from mount)
😂 well described! I know right what you mean about the meltdown. The black Mopar performance box is usually available at summit or jegs. I don’t trust any other aftermarket module except the fbo box, unless you could get an orange box from several years back. The fbo is nice because it eliminates the ballast, which is a common failure point on the old Mopars.
@@JustMoparJoe very nice info friend, thanks, see where i said it was a 78 engine, its a 79 btw. D'ohh
I found a same year Pace Arrow yesterday, hidden in the back part of a junkyard up in some wooded area that i never knew existed, theres actually many 70's-80's RV's in them thar woods, but trees have grown my friend...lolz
(nvr knew & been goin there since a kid), well, a long one short, the cabin is about destroyed, tree even fell on it, BUT, the 440 engine in it is friggin INTACT (sans a carburetor), same ignition, no signs of melting, modules looked friggin new, i took the ballast resistors just to check, trying to find someone now who may know any history on that pace. What are the resistor values supposed to be, you know?...I've been told many diffrent values, main ones being something like 5.1 ohms & .3 ohms on the other?
From servicing electronics (what i do) theres a simialar resistor in power amps in from of finals called a "Bias" resistor...(same effect), all bias resistors are extremely low as in tenths of an ohm
Thanks for letting me pester ya,
~PeasOut
Voltage regulator.
I recently bought this ignition system also for a 73 Dodge Charger my question is how is the wiring for the ballast resistor?? I can't see it in your video
Check out the video at the 4:22 mark. There’s a white jumper wire that goes on the one side of the ballast resistor. Basically it bypasses the ballast all together. The jumper keeps you from having to remove the ballast and rewire.
@@JustMoparJoe ohhh ok I did that but the bottom is not touching the ballast resistor is that supposed to be like that
@@michaelgarcia3452 pretty much. The black plastic won’t quite seat as far as factory. As long as it’s plugged firmly, it should be good. To verify, check the positive side of your coil with a voltmeter. It should be a full 12 volts, or nearly the same as your battery
@@JustMoparJoe thank you I'll check that out and thanks for your help
I was looking for the advantages of using this ignition...?
It plugs right into your stock wiring harness, it’s made in the USA and is in stock. It’s a family owned company, they warranty it for 5 years when used with the included coil. They have great customer support, it has a built in rev limiter. It’s cheaper still than a new MSD box.
Rob here....hey bud how ya been man...is that module better or equivalent to an HEI set up. Bout how much does that setup cost?
I believe it’s much better than hei. I haven’t priced them in a while. The rev limiter and easy installation is a nice feature.
@@JustMoparJoe Rob here....cool, you remember when you helped me acquire a can snout extension from Hughes engine. I did get the magnum/ L.A. hybrid running but needs some tweaking and it'll be right on.
@@judyloper422 yea sir 🫡. Send me a message and I can help you better 👍🏼
Would something like this help my 1987 318 3speed van? It stumbles after warmed up
That could be many things. Is the choke sticking? Timing chain worn out? Weak fuel pump or pressure? Clogged filter(air or fuel)?
@@JustMoparJoe thx for the response. It has fresh fuel filter. Ill have to diagnose what else u mentioned .I bought it for 500$ ran ok for like a week. I topped off with mid grade eth free gas and pressure washed the engine , those are the only two things ive done that i think may have messed something up.
Is this product a copy of Rev N Ator from rt garage?
I’ve heard of the rev in nator, but I haven’t been able to find one in a while. I haven’t dissected both units to verify their similarities. Quality companies in the US would likely be sued if they stole a copyrighted product.
Hey William, I actually called Don about this question earlier. He mentioned that Rev-n-ator used a less stable system and could not provide the stability of his product. He also offers a 5 year warranty on the coil and the ecu when bought together. Said he’s had 3 fail in over 9,000 sold with one of those being the LED light going out!
70- 78 used this type of ignition?
This is a great read. www.fourforty.com/techstuff/ignition.html
Ideles nice with no carb!!!
It got one 😂
Where do you get that at Joe
Hey Danny! It’s on a website called 4secondsflat.com
Thanks Joe
This is how you cam make feel dumb. Never would of thought about doing that to see if you have spark.
I stole the idea from Uncle Tony lol
And I did get bit once 😬
Unless there is an effect of the video framing rate and the spark rep rate, that is a most puny, intermittent spark imaginable ....
It was pretty stout when it lit me up. But I agree. This was a bad video to try out my Chinese camera from Amazon.
I have a main line fuse that keeps blowing when the car starts. It's running into bulkhead connector to back of wiper switch looks like a resister mounted in wiper switch for the ignition. Part ( wiper switch with ignition wiring in it was discontinued 20 years ago. Any suggestions ? Thank you !
Man that’s a new one on me. Maybe try a new switch if possible or disconnect yours to see if it still pops.
@@JustMoparJoe yeah I love electrical problems 😂. Keep up the great vids they really help!
@@JustMoparJoe subscribing !
Thanks brother! I’ve got all kinds of stuff on the channel. Excuse the videos early on. Some had bad audio quality
Thanks brother. Check out my playlist “helpful videos for any Mopar”
Can I bùypas the icm all together
Do you mean the control box in this video? You can buy a ready to run distributor and coil setup.
@@JustMoparJoe can I use the original
@@KennethNewton-up3hb if there’s nothing wrong with it. This is actually a performance upgrade box that’s simple to connect. If you’d like a performance distributor, check out Firecore performance. They sell ready to run kits and offer a discount when you call and mention my channel.
@JustMoparJoe so basically the icm is bad and I don't have time for parts
To keep things looking somewhat original that's a good option. Don Gould markets good products. Good dude. BUT!!!! HEI is a much better selection. Just doesn't look original. ALSO.....install a phenolic plate on that intake. Your carb will boil running that cast iron intake.
Don is a great guy and it’s a solid company. I’m familiar with the boil, and prevention methods. Thanks for sharing
Is that you mopar joe
🕺🏻
I consider mopars eletronic ignition the most unreliable electronic ignition .i wish id have stuck with points ...i allways worry it will fail as it has seneral times .i found that you better keep a ballast resistor ecm and coil in the trunk..stick with your point they are more reliable
Get an msd 6al if you don’t want the mopar stuff. They sell them at any O’Reilly. Try not to worry about it. 318willrun brings a spare points distributor and coil with him on trips. You can drop it in, and retime in no time.
@@JustMoparJoe i fixed mine by selling it hadi 70 bee for 25 years had fun with it but had lots of troubles nice car but im getn old and get tired of workin on it
@@nepoleonbonaparte6517 dang. The 70 bee is the pinnacle of B bodies
I enjoyed that car had spent alot of money on srearing etc it was a joy to drive it handled like a dream. But man that thing was just unreliable compared to my pontiac so i let the dodge go.kept my 69 grand prix sj .its a ho 428 car.and it is flat out scary fast. Sry mopar guys .forgive me
I will say it was a good car and i sold it 25 years later for 10000 more than i bought for. A sound investment
It’s literally an HEI
How do they give an HEI an adjustable rev limiter? How do they gain 10 HP over an orange box?
@@JustMoparJoe Pertronix Ignition D72000 HEI III Performance Module. There are many others too
@@JustMoparJoe the 10 hp over an orange box is an irrelevant unreliable claim.
@@voodoochild661 th-cam.com/video/Bz7jommE_1w/w-d-xo.htmlsi=jXZT5JFjetB6I4L3
@@JustMoparJoe again the FBO box is a good product and works great for what it is but 10hp at peak means nothing there are so many variables they also ran more timing with the FBO box. As long as your ignition is consistent it will be as good as any other. It’s a good product. But it’s an “HEI”
Made int he USA? Wait... what? They still make stuff in the USA? Wow.... I'll be dipped.... And here I have been making my own car parts especially electronics because I got tired of Chinesium only lasting anywhere from 50 miles to 7 months.
Good deal. I saw you had used a voltage regulator on your swap. I’ve had the very best luck with the mopar performance black boxes with the yellow script printed on it. They are better than the standard parts store stuff, and worked to keep the correct voltage in my gen 3 hemi swapped 70 challenger.
Very nice. Currently the distributor I ended up going to after ditching the chevy style HEI is a 1972 Challenger single breaker points distributor I stripped down and reman'd myself, also changing the vac advance for the stick shift one the vc-167 over the vc-168 because i got a 5 speed. The computer is still hooked up with a stripped down junker harness just to try it out for data logging and to feed the gauges. It worked out and the data logging makes it easy to watch the carb's tune. Found the sweet spot for timing and carb adjustment too. Just hook up the vac gauge, dial the dizzy till you get just under 17hg then adjust the mixture till its just over 18 and BAM! she goes and its right where it wants to be. Also went with a '97 ram coil with a ballast resistor instead of what i had. Just for giggles I ordered up a 1973 Challenge electronic dizzy and have a gm HEI module on a heat sink for it, because they are easy to find and cheap. @@JustMoparJoe
Who wants a stupid balance resistor all they do is limit the voltage going to the distributor
This kit you just bypass it. They sell a nice harness that also does, if you want to eliminate it totally, or upgrade your points car.