Choosing a press for dry mounting photos

I introduce the idea of using a Sublimation Heat Press to dry mount your prints. The particular model I demonstrate (called the Power Press) costs around $250.00 with shipping. That is much cheaper than the ideal standard Seal or D&K Dry Mount Press. They will run around $1,850.00 to include shipping. With this press there are inadequacies, but they can be remedied with attention. I do have one recommendation for reducing the amount of tacking you will need to do: always place your print in the vertical position. That way the base of the print as known by the machine, is at its smallest width.
We found the issue! To resolve: place the upper reaches of the mat board very high, (we use the standard 14x17 size) and sticking out beyond the plate. The matting should almost touch the upper body of the press right under the thermostat and timer. That will focus your 8x10 print high and its base towards the center of the platen. Always keep the print vertical. Also, make sure you set your pressure as high as you can. When you have to slightly stabilize the press with your hand at it's base to open it when the heating is finished, you will know you are there.
Do this, and you will have no areas of non-adhesion. You should get perfect and flat prints every time. The good side: your prints will be sealed just as well as any of the expensive presses. The bad side: you may not be able to use a matboard beyond 14x17, and a print much larger than 8x10. (Possibly 10x12 format will work, but we will need to run tests).
The issue is, the pressure is not perfectly even throughout the print area. We have notified the company.

[@johnhigginson5079]

I'd been wondering about these amazon presses, thanks for the demo

[@callmeBe]

So, the answer is, this will work great for mounting. BUT, read my comments on exactly how to use them. (The print is not centered--in the middle--of the machine. You place the print about 25% below being centered in the vertical axis, and dead centered in the horizontal. And your print will come out 100% flat on the first try).

[@elizabethgbrooke]

Thank you for such helpful information

[@Pfukr]

Thank for such an informative video

[@dannyaltman6370]

thank you. i just started looked at heat presses as an alternative to a dry mounting press. i am very curious as to what you think caused the imperfect seal at the edges.

[@callmeBe]

It has to do with the imperfect weight distribution of the palate (upper part of the press). With my press, I found that it performs perfectly if the print is not centered in the very middle of the press, but placed about 4" down--still centered laterally. (Works well for up to 11x14 prints. I don't know beyond that). Since then I have never once had a problem. And, I am super, super picky. There is a turn where you can also adjust the pressure the upper palate puts on the lower, but that does not seem to make any difference. The heating element seems to be consistent all the way around (every once in awhile I spot check the heat with a laser temperature reader), so that makes life a lot easier. For years I used a high end photographic press (Classic Seal), but the heating element finally gave out, and I could not find a replacement. Meanwhile, the price of photographic presses has gone through the roof (+$1K). While the brand new press I have now ran $200.00 (with shipping). My results are: now that I place the print down somewhat, the handling and net result between this press and a photographic are no different. Also, make sure you are using a high quality mounting adhesive. For years I used ColorMount. But it is no longer made. Now I use DryTac Trimount as it is archival by definition of it's chemical makeup and base paper (museums will not define it as "archival" because once it is set, it can not be separated from the print), and it seals at a VERY LOW temperature. I have used it for a number of years, and never once had any problem with it. It certainly handles as well as ColorMount). One other important point: DON"T use release paper!!!! Use Bristol Board, which is 100% cotton fiber, and acid free. But you won't get any wrinkles with Bristol Board--no matter how many times you use the same board. The more you reuse release paper, the more wrinkles you will get on the prints. Ask more questions if you need. Good luck!