Excellent video ! Self proclaimed TH-cam mechanic and this was one of the easiest videos to follow . Came back because I was having problems with the pin that holds the reservoir house . I was trying to put it in the front and it goes in through the sude
Plastic parts bolted to an engine...Thanks Chevy!!! After replacing mine every other year a couple of times on my 2014, i have an aluminum one ordered. If it does it again, off to the junkyard it goes.
Hopefully the aluminum one holds up! I've heard quite a few people comment that they got the aluminum ones, and I haven't heard of any failing yet. Time will tell. I'll cross my fingers for you!
@@roberthein2156 The parts stores dont sell the metal version. They are for sale on amazon and other aftermarket parts retailers like ebay. The thermostat is in a different location behind the turbo on the head that plastic piece it's all one unit. The only thing on the water outlet is a heat sensor.
Great video. My gf car leaks whilst running but not when stationed. I will take this apart and see if it’s the issue. If not I’m ruling out head gasket.. 1 week after paying it off.. can you believe it . 😂
Oh, bummer. That's always how it goes! These engines are notorious for coolant leaks, as well as bad head gaskets. If it's an external leak, it wouldn't be head gasket - could be water pump or this outlet housing. The outlet housing is the most common spot to check. Hope you find it without too much trouble! Thanks for watching!
I just had to replace this part for the second time the other day because the plastic tube you use for the lower hose to the radiator broke off completely, has anyone had a problem like that after replacing?
The parts stores don't sell the metal version. They are for sale on amazon and other aftermarket parts retailers like eBay. They are not oem but I AM ON MY 3rd oem plastic. First two where the hose attaches broke off/cracked. All 3 are from parts stores. The last is leaking at the gasket it is from NAPA. It still has 2 years left of the 3-year warranty but i would say it doesn't cover the gasket where its leaking from. Since i have to take the time to change the gasket I'm just going to put a metal one on so i no longer have issues with the plastic breaking. I also never drain the coolant out. Once that piece breaks the coolant is usually out of the top portion of the coolant system, so I just swap and refill. Saves money on coolant. Great video, very detailed!
Thanks! If I were to do another one, I'd definitely go with the metal version! Sorry you've had such a hard time with these darn plastic water outlet housing! Hopefully you have much better luck with the metal one!
@@3DayWeekend so far so good. The Napa one I think broke shortly after installing it. So if it stays leak free for a year I’ll be super happy. I got p0171 so I’ll be doing the valve cover (changing to aluminum) plenum and turbo hose when it becomes more frequently throwing the code. The Cruze is my main car but because of its unreliability I have a back up incase it goes down. It seems like the over heating causes the p0171 but that’s just my theory!
Looked up this video because i need to replace mine. Super easy to see everything which is rare in these types of videos and super easy to understand everything. great video. THANKS!
You bet! It is a HUGE time saver, and a big risk to run these engines with air pockets. The head gaskets are fragile and have a tendency to let loose after one overheat. Thanks for watching!
Thanks for the tip! I didn't realize the aluminum alternatives existed back when I did this job, but I've used one since and it seems pretty solid. Thanks for watching!
Got a question I have a 2016 Chevy Cruze limited 1.4 that runs hot when driving but not while parked and on. I changed the thermostat then changed the water pump and it still runs hot! Would you suggest that I should or shouldn’t change the housing hose? I can’t figure out why it keeps running hot! It does lose coolant. Just wish I knew exactly what the problem was. Three different mechanics said different stuff to even saying blown head gaskets
Well..... I'm afraid I have bad news for you. If it's losing coolant internally, you have a bad head gasket. If I had a Cruze doing what yours is doing, that's probably the first thing I would do. If it's losing coolant externally resulting in low coolant, that could cause your overheat though. However, even with an external leak, if the coolant level is full, it shouldn't overheat. Since you've ruled out the thermostat and water pump, I'd go to the head gasket next. It is a very common failure point in these engines. Sorry for that answer. I know it isn't what you were hoping for!
thank you for the video. Got the water outlet replaced and stopped the leak. But when running the vehicle with ac on the fan turns to high speed for about 5 seconds and turns off, keeps doing this all the long. Would you have a solution? thanks in advance.
That's not always a bad thing. It could just be hot. Just make sure you don't have any leaks and that the level is full (when cold). If you're overheating and using coolant, it's possible that the head gasket has failed. That is a common failure on these engines. I do have a video showing how to replace that as well.
I'm having a lot of trouble getting that retainer clip back onto the hose from the reservoir to the water outlet housing. Any tips for those weird clips?
It should slide in very easily. That hose doesn't get pushed down hard into the outlet housing. It kind-of sits a little loose. If you push too hard it won't line up right and won't go in. Lighten up on it a little bit and slide that clip in there. Pull up on the hose to make sure it is attached right though before you go driving. If it is too loose and the clip didn't go in, it'll let go while driving!
Two different problems there. If it's not running, it could be a bad fan, blown fuse, bad relay, or faulty temperature sensor. If it's running late, there could be air in the system or perhaps a faulty temperature sensor... maybe a sticking relay. There could be other problems, but I'd say those would be a good starting point. A mechanic should have the tool to plug in and manually test the fan to rule out the fuse/relay/fan motor being at fault.
If I may make a suggestion, can you tell us how long it takes in real time for you to do these repairs. Also you make great videos with enough details on each step its awesome
I had the same bolt break off when I took the housing off and now, I can't get it out. Please help! You didn't show in the video the removal process just spoke to it briefly. Would have liked to see how you went about removing it.
Oh, it was terrible. Soaked it with PB blaster for about 24 hours (re-applying every so often). I then ground two sides of the bolt ever so slightly with a Dremel so it had flat sides on it and my biggest vice grips would grab it securely. Then, we set a heat gun right on the bolt and let it run for a bit. Removed the heat gun, turned the vice grips, and to my relief it turned!
I also had one break, we did the same process, but our stud broke off flush with the head unfortunately. Now we have to take it to a shop to have it extracted 🙃
Thanks for the video. My problem was the part of the assembly itself from the topside view broke off into the hose itself. Gonna look up that exact reverse torx bit for removal. Nice to know it's an 8mm as a suitable replacement! Thanks again
That’s the exact same problem I just had happen with wife’s car. About an inch of the hosing broke off in the hose at the clamp. So I know what I’ll be replacing in the next day or so. Thanks so much for the very detailed explanation and video this is perfect.
I have a 2014 Chevrolet Cruze and it's using a lot of antifreeze. I haven't noticed any leaks or smells. I'm taking it to the shop to see what is going on
They usually smell pretty bad under the hood if you're losing enough to notice. The only other place it could be going is out the tailpipe. The exhaust would smell sweet though. Hopefully you get good news!
Only once on that car. If I had a nickel for every Cruze valve cover I had to change....... well... I probably wouldn't have a dollar, but still. A few!
You mean the overflow pipe that goes to the reservoir? There is an o-ring in there that goes bad. If you look really close you might be able to see a nick or scrape mark on it. Throw an new o-ring in there and it will stop that leak. Good luck!
Are you talking about the large metal clip out of the top? That is a unique part that comes with the part. I don't believe you can get that separately.
Great video! I'm thinking I have to do this to my sisters 2015 cruze. I figure while I'm at it, replace the radiator coolant sensor. My question is about that. Is that rad sensor the same part number as the one in the housing? Everything i see online seems to give no different part number. Thanks!
I broke the bottom bolt on my water outlet installing it about 6 months ago. The screw broke off inside so i wasnt as fortune at you were. It lasted me about 6 months before it started leaking from the bottom so i just ordered an aluminum one to replace it with. I had to use a drill and to try and drill it out a few hours later to no great avail i gave in. Replaced my old one however the new one i replaced it with came with 2 hoses. The top hose with the plastic clip is different than the dorman i replaced it with a few years ago. Unfortunately the dorman doesn't seem to be compatible with the new outlet. I need to put the cheap hose on with the plastic clip and havent figured out yet what im doing wrong its as if the plastic clip doesnt fit it or something. Smh any advice would be appreciated.
Oh, man. Sorry to hear about that. If it were mine, I would definitely get that old bolt out so it will seal properly, otherwise, as you found, it will just start leaking again. It'll probably need to be drilled and tapped, perhaps with a heli-coil to match the thread size. I haven't used an aluminum housing yet (weren't available back when I did this video) so I'm not familiar with the connections on that. Careful when drilling - if you go too deep into the head it could cause major issues. Might be worth taking it to a shop just to have that part done.
Ok, I did exactly as you just did, I turned it on and waited for it to get to where temp gauge is normally, drove around and extremely satisfied with the results, but… yup a huge but… after I shut it off I needed to use the car an hour later, and I get nothing, it did crank but doesn’t turn over. Can anyone relate? What was the remedy? Thanks in advance.
I've never had one do that to me before. Check fuel and spark, and double check all the sensors you had disconnected. Perhaps the coil pack or some other sensor isn't plugged in all the way.
Has anyone else had a problem get the charge pipe off I’ve loosened the clamp and my and and i still can’t get the pipe off. It’s lose and moves around but we can’t get it off. Any suggestion on what to do?
I hate that pipe. Busted my knuckles more than once pulling that off of there. I found that the best I can do is to turn the clamp so the screw is up on top, then pull it straight forward - kind of towards the headlight. It will let go eventually. There's such tight clearance in there it gets caught and doesn't want to come out.
For just the water outlet housing it shouldn't be too bad. I'd guess a few hundred at a regular garage provided there were no other issues or surprises.
It's an absolute pain. I can usually get a tool in there and get it started, then use large pliers to turn it around so I can access it. If you can't, you'll have to loosen the radiator so you can move it and access it that way.
I just finished this job. The easiest way is to take the front bumper off you'll have more room and lead way to work if not do it from the bottom. I looked everywhere on TH-cam couldn't find a video on it so I had to figure it out on my own. 😂 Good Luck!
Please help I replaced water outlet and now car wont start 2016 limited eco no headlights no windows no wipers no horn just dash lights an radio working
You can work around it, but sometimes its easier just to get it out of the way. There is a slot on the top for a large flat screwdriver. Stick one in the slot and turn. You'll start to see how the outer part of the connector slides away and at the same time, the connection will come apart. Shouldn't be too hard to get it moving. Hope that helps! Thanks for watching!
Yes, they are available separate. It is called the "Water Outlet Gasket". I've never been lucky enough to have it just be the gasket. Usually the plastic cracks on the housing itself.
Are you referring to the top coolant pipe connection? If so, there is a little rubber o-ring in there that can leak from being pinched, worn, etc. I've had to replace them before. Just pull it out and throw a new one in there. It's a pretty standard size. You can take it to your nearest NAPA and they can get you a new one. Hope that helps!
I didn't know they made an aluminum version. I'd be interested to see that! It would seem the failure is more on the seal than the housing itself though, so I wouldn't think an aluminum housing would help.
That is a collection I've made over many years. The original kit is made from classic CRAFTSMAN sockets. I just used the metric kit for this project. The organizer sitting on my cart is from Lowes. They also have organizers at Harbor Freight.
I did hear that they made an aluminum one, but after I replaced this one! Fortunately it hasn't broken again since.... Great tip! Has your aluminum one lasted longer so far?
Yeah, can't do the whole thing at real-speed or it would be hours long! Hopefully I explained it well enough before doing it so you get the general idea. Thanks for watching!
The car is OK its the piece of shit 1.4 ecotec engine , too much plastic , a faulty pvc system in the intake ,that leads to diaphram failing in valve cover, plastic coolant housing drivers side ( now available in cast alum aftermarket) plastic thermostat housing (again now available in alum) failing coil packs along with wiring pulg (harness) most likely because the engine runs at 220 degrees, failing transmission cooler lines (leaking) Again PVC system has a aftermarket mod bringing it to outside , in colder climates water freezes in tube from intake to turbo (oil catch can fixes). Turbo fails if oil feed plugs (common from heat) you need to change out at 60k to save turbo Cam solinoids leak, front timing cover and crank seal will leak, valve cover will leak, oil cooler will leak turbo cooler lines ,water pump will leak . New seals need for all at 60k miles . Lets not even get into ground issues ,faulty battery cables. I have bought GM cars going back 45 years and I'm a mechanic ,this is the worst cheapest highest maintenance engine GM has ever made a dealerships dream. The only good I can say about it ,it gets excellent gas mileage when working
It does get good gas mileage and feels pretty "peppy", but you're right. It is plagued with issues. They are easy to work on, but I've done so many that I hope to never work on a Cruze again! I draw the line at head gaskets failing with less than 100k miles. Unacceptable in my book. The head gasket failing is usually a byproduct of one of the plastic coolant system parts failing which quickly leads to an overheat, but still. Not acceptable. Funny you mention the PVC system, because I did have to replace the valve cover due to a split diaphragm on this car!
@@3DayWeekend the diaphram fails in valve cover usually because the pvc valve has fail allowing full boost into the valve cover blowing the diaphram. If you don't fix the pvc in the intake the diaphram will blow again- eventually. The mod seals the pvc in the intake and brings a replacable check valve (PVC) to the outside like it should have been in the first place
You understand this engine inside and out. I have learned the hard way (wife's car). The coolant system has failed about 4X and the PVC has failed 2X. I bought the aluminum aftermarket parts and the PVC mod kit (which works great). What GM idiots designed this POS? I am only buying Honda and Toyota from this point forward.
It definitely makes life easier! Definitely not needed for this job though. Once the coolant is out, most of the work is done up top. Thanks for watching!
@@3DayWeekend Your video was actually my how to guide for this replacement.... Just a little misplaced, I'll advised sarcasm. No need for that from my part. I then discovered that the cooling fan was intermittent, then total fail. Then discovered that my wiring harness was fried.... All due to a bad relay. So, overheating was caused by a bad relay and shorted the harness, which then damaged the connector on the fan, which then caused the overheating that then caused one of the outlets in the water outlet to break in half. Ended up being quite a job. But I know I saved hundreds of dollars by doing it myself. Not bad for a guy that had barely replaced a couple of sensors in his life.
this is the first video that showed everything from draining the radiator to bleeding it out at the end! great for first time fixers thanks!
Glad you liked it. Thanks for watching!
Excellent video ! Self proclaimed TH-cam mechanic and this was one of the easiest videos to follow .
Came back because I was having problems with the pin that holds the reservoir house . I was trying to put it in the front and it goes in through the sude
Thank you! I'm glad that you found it helpful. I try to keep the videos as short as possible without skipping a step!
Plastic parts bolted to an engine...Thanks Chevy!!! After replacing mine every other year a couple of times on my 2014, i have an aluminum one ordered. If it does it again, off to the junkyard it goes.
Hopefully the aluminum one holds up! I've heard quite a few people comment that they got the aluminum ones, and I haven't heard of any failing yet. Time will tell. I'll cross my fingers for you!
I painted my 2- housings, w/J.B.Weld 600 degree .
Didn’t see any metal parts, available.
Thermostat + Heat Sensor.
@@roberthein2156 The parts stores dont sell the metal version. They are for sale on amazon and other aftermarket parts retailers like ebay. The thermostat is in a different location behind the turbo on the head that plastic piece it's all one unit. The only thing on the water outlet is a heat sensor.
Installed an aluminum one today, was leaking out of the overflow tube fitting as well as the bottom of housing by the front bottom bolt..
Great video. My gf car leaks whilst running but not when stationed. I will take this apart and see if it’s the issue. If not I’m ruling out head gasket.. 1 week after paying it off.. can you believe it . 😂
Oh, bummer. That's always how it goes! These engines are notorious for coolant leaks, as well as bad head gaskets. If it's an external leak, it wouldn't be head gasket - could be water pump or this outlet housing. The outlet housing is the most common spot to check. Hope you find it without too much trouble! Thanks for watching!
Thank you for the detailed instructions! I was able to do the whole job following the video and i'm just a beginner mechanic. Thanks again :)
Glad it helped!
I just had to replace this part for the second time the other day because the plastic tube you use for the lower hose to the radiator broke off completely, has anyone had a problem like that after replacing?
I can't say I've heard of that part breaking off! Hopefully your newest one holds together for you!
This just happened to my wifes car
I did
Our origional one broke, thats why we have to replace it
The parts stores don't sell the metal version. They are for sale on amazon and other aftermarket parts retailers like eBay. They are not oem but I AM ON MY 3rd oem plastic. First two where the hose attaches broke off/cracked. All 3 are from parts stores. The last is leaking at the gasket it is from NAPA. It still has 2 years left of the 3-year warranty but i would say it doesn't cover the gasket where its leaking from. Since i have to take the time to change the gasket I'm just going to put a metal one on so i no longer have issues with the plastic breaking. I also never drain the coolant out. Once that piece breaks the coolant is usually out of the top portion of the coolant system, so I just swap and refill. Saves money on coolant. Great video, very detailed!
Thanks! If I were to do another one, I'd definitely go with the metal version! Sorry you've had such a hard time with these darn plastic water outlet housing! Hopefully you have much better luck with the metal one!
@@3DayWeekend so far so good. The Napa one I think broke shortly after installing it. So if it stays leak free for a year I’ll be super happy. I got p0171 so I’ll be doing the valve cover (changing to aluminum) plenum and turbo hose when it becomes more frequently throwing the code. The Cruze is my main car but because of its unreliability I have a back up incase it goes down. It seems like the over heating causes the p0171 but that’s just my theory!
Looked up this video because i need to replace mine. Super easy to see everything which is rare in these types of videos and super easy to understand everything. great video. THANKS!
Glad I could help. Thanks for watching!
Glad you covered the,”Air Bleed Bolt.”
Most videos don’t.
Radiator will have air in it.
You bet! It is a HUGE time saver, and a big risk to run these engines with air pockets. The head gaskets are fragile and have a tendency to let loose after one overheat. Thanks for watching!
These plastic parts tend to usually fail around 30k miles. I highly recommend upgrading to aluminum aftermarket parts.
Thanks for the tip! I didn't realize the aluminum alternatives existed back when I did this job, but I've used one since and it seems pretty solid. Thanks for watching!
Got a question I have a 2016 Chevy Cruze limited 1.4 that runs hot when driving but not while parked and on. I changed the thermostat then changed the water pump and it still runs hot! Would you suggest that I should or shouldn’t change the housing hose? I can’t figure out why it keeps running hot! It does lose coolant. Just wish I knew exactly what the problem was. Three different mechanics said different stuff to even saying blown head gaskets
Well..... I'm afraid I have bad news for you. If it's losing coolant internally, you have a bad head gasket. If I had a Cruze doing what yours is doing, that's probably the first thing I would do. If it's losing coolant externally resulting in low coolant, that could cause your overheat though. However, even with an external leak, if the coolant level is full, it shouldn't overheat. Since you've ruled out the thermostat and water pump, I'd go to the head gasket next. It is a very common failure point in these engines. Sorry for that answer. I know it isn't what you were hoping for!
thank you for the video. Got the water outlet replaced and stopped the leak. But when running the vehicle with ac on the fan turns to high speed for about 5 seconds and turns off, keeps doing this all the long. Would you have a solution? thanks in advance.
Is your AC properly charged? Sounds like it could be cycling due to low pressure. Just a thought! Glad the video helped. Thanks for watching!
Excuse me. Good morning, mine gurgles and you can hear it rustling in that plastic part when you turn off the car. .. which may be?
That's not always a bad thing. It could just be hot. Just make sure you don't have any leaks and that the level is full (when cold). If you're overheating and using coolant, it's possible that the head gasket has failed. That is a common failure on these engines. I do have a video showing how to replace that as well.
I'm having a lot of trouble getting that retainer clip back onto the hose from the reservoir to the water outlet housing. Any tips for those weird clips?
It should slide in very easily. That hose doesn't get pushed down hard into the outlet housing. It kind-of sits a little loose. If you push too hard it won't line up right and won't go in. Lighten up on it a little bit and slide that clip in there. Pull up on the hose to make sure it is attached right though before you go driving. If it is too loose and the clip didn't go in, it'll let go while driving!
I'm having the same issue
What would cause the fan not to run? Or for it to run late and causing problems?
Two different problems there. If it's not running, it could be a bad fan, blown fuse, bad relay, or faulty temperature sensor. If it's running late, there could be air in the system or perhaps a faulty temperature sensor... maybe a sticking relay. There could be other problems, but I'd say those would be a good starting point. A mechanic should have the tool to plug in and manually test the fan to rule out the fuse/relay/fan motor being at fault.
Exactly what i needed. Will be following this step by step this weekend and saving my daughter some cash. Great vid!
Glad it helped! Thanks for watching!
If I may make a suggestion, can you tell us how long it takes in real time for you to do these repairs. Also you make great videos with enough details on each step its awesome
Excellent suggestion! I will try to work that in to future videos. Thanks for watching!
I had the same bolt break off when I took the housing off and now, I can't get it out. Please help!
You didn't show in the video the removal process just spoke to it briefly. Would have liked to see how you went about removing it.
Oh, it was terrible. Soaked it with PB blaster for about 24 hours (re-applying every so often). I then ground two sides of the bolt ever so slightly with a Dremel so it had flat sides on it and my biggest vice grips would grab it securely. Then, we set a heat gun right on the bolt and let it run for a bit. Removed the heat gun, turned the vice grips, and to my relief it turned!
I also had one break, we did the same process, but our stud broke off flush with the head unfortunately. Now we have to take it to a shop to have it extracted 🙃
Is there anyway to prep the bolt removal so it doesn’t break? Would PB blaster sprayed on the bolt before removing better the odds it doesn’t break?
Thanks for the video. My problem was the part of the assembly itself from the topside view broke off into the hose itself. Gonna look up that exact reverse torx bit for removal. Nice to know it's an 8mm as a suitable replacement! Thanks again
Glad it helped! Thank you for watching!
That’s the exact same problem I just had happen with wife’s car. About an inch of the hosing broke off in the hose at the clamp. So I know what I’ll be replacing in the next day or so. Thanks so much for the very detailed explanation and video this is perfect.
I have a 2014 Chevrolet Cruze and it's using a lot of antifreeze. I haven't noticed any leaks or smells. I'm taking it to the shop to see what is going on
They usually smell pretty bad under the hood if you're losing enough to notice. The only other place it could be going is out the tailpipe. The exhaust would smell sweet though. Hopefully you get good news!
I had same issue it was the water outletor the bottom of the radiator hose.
@@davycrockett4395 It was the thermostat housing
I see that blue valve cover gasket.how many times did you have to change the valve cover so far?.
Only once on that car. If I had a nickel for every Cruze valve cover I had to change....... well... I probably wouldn't have a dollar, but still. A few!
@@3DayWeekend I had to do my wife's trax 1 time.I went with a Dorman valve cover.
We had to replace ours for our son's car; mechanic said it has been a huge problem with these engines....Plastic on hot metal; what a concept.
The valve cover is just the symptom. The real culprit is the pcv valve inside the intake manifold.
We replaced this on our 2011 Chevy Cruze but it’s still leaking around the metal paper clip thingy. Not sure why it’s still leaking.
You mean the overflow pipe that goes to the reservoir? There is an o-ring in there that goes bad. If you look really close you might be able to see a nick or scrape mark on it. Throw an new o-ring in there and it will stop that leak. Good luck!
Those c shaped clips on the part, can you get those separately anywhere?
Are you talking about the large metal clip out of the top? That is a unique part that comes with the part. I don't believe you can get that separately.
Great video! I'm thinking I have to do this to my sisters 2015 cruze. I figure while I'm at it, replace the radiator coolant sensor. My question is about that. Is that rad sensor the same part number as the one in the housing? Everything i see online seems to give no different part number. Thanks!
Yes, it should be the same. Look close when you order it. Some water outlet housings come with the sensor in it already!
I broke the bottom bolt on my water outlet installing it about 6 months ago. The screw broke off inside so i wasnt as fortune at you were. It lasted me about 6 months before it started leaking from the bottom so i just ordered an aluminum one to replace it with. I had to use a drill and to try and drill it out a few hours later to no great avail i gave in. Replaced my old one however the new one i replaced it with came with 2 hoses. The top hose with the plastic clip is different than the dorman i replaced it with a few years ago. Unfortunately the dorman doesn't seem to be compatible with the new outlet. I need to put the cheap hose on with the plastic clip and havent figured out yet what im doing wrong its as if the plastic clip doesnt fit it or something. Smh any advice would be appreciated.
Oh, man. Sorry to hear about that. If it were mine, I would definitely get that old bolt out so it will seal properly, otherwise, as you found, it will just start leaking again. It'll probably need to be drilled and tapped, perhaps with a heli-coil to match the thread size. I haven't used an aluminum housing yet (weren't available back when I did this video) so I'm not familiar with the connections on that. Careful when drilling - if you go too deep into the head it could cause major issues. Might be worth taking it to a shop just to have that part done.
Ok, I did exactly as you just did, I turned it on and waited for it to get to where temp gauge is normally, drove around and extremely satisfied with the results, but… yup a huge but… after I shut it off I needed to use the car an hour later, and I get nothing, it did crank but doesn’t turn over. Can anyone relate? What was the remedy? Thanks in advance.
I've never had one do that to me before. Check fuel and spark, and double check all the sensors you had disconnected. Perhaps the coil pack or some other sensor isn't plugged in all the way.
Do you tighten the radiator drain screw back in when finished bleeding?
Of course!
What size was that little hose for draining the radiator?
I believe I used a 1/4 ID hose for that, but it was tight. 3/8 might be better.
Has anyone else had a problem get the charge pipe off I’ve loosened the clamp and my and and i still can’t get the pipe off. It’s lose and moves around but we can’t get it off. Any suggestion on what to do?
I hate that pipe. Busted my knuckles more than once pulling that off of there. I found that the best I can do is to turn the clamp so the screw is up on top, then pull it straight forward - kind of towards the headlight. It will let go eventually. There's such tight clearance in there it gets caught and doesn't want to come out.
Same this pipe is killing me! Lol
How much would the cost would be for labor and costs if I took mine 2012 Chevy Cruze LT RS to a mechanic or to the dealership?
For just the water outlet housing it shouldn't be too bad. I'd guess a few hundred at a regular garage provided there were no other issues or surprises.
How do you change the large radiator hose; I can't get to the bottom clamp because it's too close to the radiator support panel
It's an absolute pain. I can usually get a tool in there and get it started, then use large pliers to turn it around so I can access it. If you can't, you'll have to loosen the radiator so you can move it and access it that way.
I just finished this job. The easiest way is to take the front bumper off you'll have more room and lead way to work if not do it from the bottom. I looked everywhere on TH-cam couldn't find a video on it so I had to figure it out on my own. 😂 Good Luck!
Please help I replaced water outlet and now car wont start 2016 limited eco no headlights no windows no wipers no horn just dash lights an radio working
Sounds like you may have accidently disconnected a main wire somewhere along the way.... Hopefully you've found it by now!
Do u knw where it would be at sorry 😞 still not running sucks paying for car can't drive
Did you unhook your battery before working on it or leave ignition on?
What size hose was needed to drain cleanly?
If I recall correctly, 1/4 will fit but it's snug. 3/8 might be best.
EXTREMELY WELL DONE VIDEO!!!
Thank you! Much appreciated!
how much would it cost to fix
The water outlet housing isn't that bad. $50 or so at your local parts shop.
Do you disconnect the blue connector and how
You can work around it, but sometimes its easier just to get it out of the way. There is a slot on the top for a large flat screwdriver. Stick one in the slot and turn. You'll start to see how the outer part of the connector slides away and at the same time, the connection will come apart. Shouldn't be too hard to get it moving. Hope that helps! Thanks for watching!
Can you buy the rubber piece that’s goes on the housing separate
Yes, they are available separate. It is called the "Water Outlet Gasket". I've never been lucky enough to have it just be the gasket. Usually the plastic cracks on the housing itself.
My coolant keeps leaking from the plug help abyone
Are you referring to the top coolant pipe connection? If so, there is a little rubber o-ring in there that can leak from being pinched, worn, etc. I've had to replace them before. Just pull it out and throw a new one in there. It's a pretty standard size. You can take it to your nearest NAPA and they can get you a new one. Hope that helps!
@5:16 what is that part called??? Someone please help mine is leaking from there only
5:16 is the water outlet housing. Unless you're talking about the hose connected to it...
@@3DayWeekend yeah hose connected to it (more specifically the bottom one-chubbier one)
@@3DayWeekend yes, hose connected to it
Could this problem cause the reservoir to crack?
No, it shouldn't.
Would you recommend the aluminum version for this part?
I didn't know they made an aluminum version. I'd be interested to see that! It would seem the failure is more on the seal than the housing itself though, so I wouldn't think an aluminum housing would help.
Do you think adding a thin layer of high temp silly cone around the gasket? reason, I have 2 cruzes, and I done this job 3 times already.
Hi there . I wanna buy the same wrench socket u using. Please let me know what is it called.
That is a collection I've made over many years. The original kit is made from classic CRAFTSMAN sockets. I just used the metric kit for this project. The organizer sitting on my cart is from Lowes. They also have organizers at Harbor Freight.
Does that water outlet housing have a thermostat in it?
No, the thermostat is down off the water pump. It does house the coolant temperature sensor though.
great video!! I'm gonna give it a try tomorrow 😅 hopefully it's as easy as u made it seem. thank you! ❤
Best of luck to you! Thanks for watching!
This video is going to help me out so much things
I am glad. Thanks for watching!
Chevy Cruze = coolant leaks!
Truth! haha Thanks for watching!
I just did it. Thanks!
You're welcome!
Where is the actual thermostat I have this exact engine
The thermostat is off the water pump housing, up near the radiator.
Thanks for the video. This is just what I needed to replace the housing. Awesom.
Glad it helped. Thanks for watching!
Thanks for the video
You bet. Thanks for watching!
Mine has cracked 3 times so finally i found an all aluminum one on ebay
Thanks for the idea man.
I did hear that they made an aluminum one, but after I replaced this one! Fortunately it hasn't broken again since.... Great tip! Has your aluminum one lasted longer so far?
Yes it has im am pretty happy with it
Glad this will only take me 13 min and 6 sec
Haha yeah, piece of cake! It really isn't a terrible job.... worst part is getting coolant everywhere.
Dont put this one plastic put it metal will plastic will brake again garbage
Yeah, I can't believe those were made out of plastic. Crazy!
u speed up on the most important parts
Yeah, can't do the whole thing at real-speed or it would be hours long! Hopefully I explained it well enough before doing it so you get the general idea. Thanks for watching!
Play at 0.25x speed 😁
The car is OK its the piece of shit 1.4 ecotec engine , too much plastic , a faulty pvc system in the intake ,that leads to diaphram failing in valve cover, plastic coolant housing drivers side ( now available in cast alum aftermarket) plastic thermostat housing (again now available in alum) failing coil packs along with wiring pulg (harness) most likely because the engine runs at 220 degrees, failing transmission cooler lines (leaking) Again PVC system has a aftermarket mod bringing it to outside , in colder climates water freezes in tube from intake to turbo (oil catch can fixes). Turbo fails if oil feed plugs (common from heat) you need to change out at 60k to save turbo Cam solinoids leak, front timing cover and crank seal will leak, valve cover will leak, oil cooler will leak turbo cooler lines ,water pump will leak . New seals need for all at 60k miles . Lets not even get into ground issues ,faulty battery cables. I have bought GM cars going back 45 years and I'm a mechanic ,this is the worst cheapest highest maintenance engine GM has ever made a dealerships dream. The only good I can say about it ,it gets excellent gas mileage when working
It does get good gas mileage and feels pretty "peppy", but you're right. It is plagued with issues. They are easy to work on, but I've done so many that I hope to never work on a Cruze again! I draw the line at head gaskets failing with less than 100k miles. Unacceptable in my book. The head gasket failing is usually a byproduct of one of the plastic coolant system parts failing which quickly leads to an overheat, but still. Not acceptable. Funny you mention the PVC system, because I did have to replace the valve cover due to a split diaphragm on this car!
@@3DayWeekend the diaphram fails in valve cover usually because the pvc valve has fail allowing full boost into the valve cover blowing the diaphram. If you don't fix the pvc in the intake the diaphram will blow again- eventually. The mod seals the pvc in the intake and brings a replacable check valve (PVC) to the outside like it should have been in the first place
Omg thanks for help !!!
You understand this engine inside and out. I have learned the hard way (wife's car). The coolant system has failed about 4X and the PVC has failed 2X. I bought the aluminum aftermarket parts and the PVC mod kit (which works great). What GM idiots designed this POS? I am only buying Honda and Toyota from this point forward.
Step 1.. buy a car lift. Got it.
It definitely makes life easier! Definitely not needed for this job though. Once the coolant is out, most of the work is done up top. Thanks for watching!
@@3DayWeekend Your video was actually my how to guide for this replacement.... Just a little misplaced, I'll advised sarcasm. No need for that from my part.
I then discovered that the cooling fan was intermittent, then total fail. Then discovered that my wiring harness was fried.... All due to a bad relay.
So, overheating was caused by a bad relay and shorted the harness, which then damaged the connector on the fan, which then caused the overheating that then caused one of the outlets in the water outlet to break in half.
Ended up being quite a job. But I know I saved hundreds of dollars by doing it myself.
Not bad for a guy that had barely replaced a couple of sensors in his life.