My understanding of the rocket stove mass heater design is that the combustion chamber section is insulated to keep the temperatures hot and combustion as complete as possible. By placing the water jacket around the stove, I cannot say what the temperatures inside the stove are, but the water jacket side is going to be 100 deg C (212 deg F). This, would seem counter to the rocket stove concept. By extracting the heat at that stage, you cool the combustion reducing efficiency. In a rocket stove, the hot flu gases coming out of the top are not the waste byproduct or an exhaust byproduct, they are the main product of the process. In RSMH practice a bell chamber is placed over the vertical pipe to trap the heat a create a secondary burn of the wood gases created in the first stage. Then the hot exhaust from that is channeled into horizontal chimney piping surrounded by thermal mass(cob dirt, sand, concrete often in the shape of a bench or long bed) for long term storage. The bell gives radiant heat right away, and the thermal mass stores it to be released slowly over the course of a day or night. There are other water heating designs that wrap the vertical section with coiled copper tubing, but they seem to miss the point as well. The hot gas moving up and creating the draft is not the byproduct. It IS the product. As a test, how long would it take to boil water in a tea kettle placed on top of the vertical shaft? It’s a great build, but when I saw the gas tank my first thought was ‘place it right over the top, what could be easier?’ Thanks so much, Robert!
The bell in RSMH isn't for secondary burn. All the burning takes place by or before exiting the riser. I think the bell has more to do with driving the air flow (or rather "pulling"). The idea is that the volume of the space between the bell and the riser is greater than the volume of the riser. No. That's not quite right. It's more about the cross-sectional area, because we're talking about the flow of an elastic fluid (gas). Cooling takes place instantly as the air leaves the riser, lowering the pressure in the bell relative to the pressure of the riser, giving the gases only one direction to go, and forcing it along with more force and velocity than you would obtain by convection (heat rises), alone. I really need to learn my thermodynamics and P1V1/T1 = P2V2/T2 stuff (gas laws). You can get the rocket sound without insulating the riser. As RMS has shown in his other stove builds, placing a mantle or any kind of chimney greatly aids combustion. All gasifier wood stoves inject oxygen-enriched air into the exhaust gases to complete the burn. That's the only thing I'm sketchy about. I THINK venturi effect keeps the air into the secondary chamber and not back out, but I'd have to think about/test it before being confident I could build one that's safe for indoors. I think that a RSMH works better if you can port fresh air into the base of the riser. Not being critical. Just expressing my current, imperfect understanding - which is quite tentative - in declarative sentences that sound like I'm more certain than I am.
I love your tutorials.Most tutors a simply a pain to listen to. You explain very clear and understandable, the cam really shows what one actually wants to take a good look at. On top of, you have a awesome way of talking, keeping up a fresh laugh anytime. Thank you for your shared craft, work and ideas, lots of it i use to renovate our old house. Good as gold, not only having sm off grid hot water. Big thanks from me and my all family. Keep it up! 😊
He doesn't waste time. Many people PREFER the waste of time and tons of repetition. It depends on how slow a learner you are and how much spoon-feeding you require.
It's a great idea... However. The Idea of a rocket stove is to get absolute clean and complete combustion. This is achieved by keeping the stack as hot as possible and ideally should be lagged from the combustion chamber up by around 750mm. This causes a good draw and retains heat so even smoke is burnt. Obviously putting a water jacket around this part removes the heat and warms the water, but the consequence is incomplete combustion. The idea of the rocket stove is so you have no smoke, the only thing coming from the stack is ultimately condensate, gas and the moisture in the fuel being burnt. No particulates should be present in a correctly running rocket stove. When the stack is lagged, it's the exhaust gases that are used to do the heating. One design is to put a barrel over the stack creating a chamber that the (extremely hot) exhaust gases heat. The exhaust outlet from the chamber does not need to be vertical because that is not where the draw for the burn chamber comes from. A horizontal outlet can be used and this is what the mass is built around. For water heating, the barrel could have the heat exchanger within it. The main point is that the short section of stack immediately exiting the combustion chamber must have it's heat retained for the stove to work as a 'rocket'. The word rocket was adopted due to the wooshing sound made by the very strong draw and very rapid combustion of fuel. I was a bit of a geek around this type of stove, it piqued my OCD.... 👍
@@ThinkingandTinkering very nice welding btw 👍😁. I think a correctly running rocket stove could answer the particulate pollution problem in urban areas. Done well, they are highly efficient. I suppose NoX output could be a potential issue with extreme combustion temperature, although going there would need a ceramic burn chamber to avoid potential melting of metal. Modern bio mass furnaces use similar principles to achieve really high combustion temps, forced air flow being one. I suppose the only draw back is not having the comforting visual aspect of burning wood in a glass door stove.
IMO it just slows down how long it takes to reach optimal temp and if you have insulating mass then copper tubing or water tank the optimal temp can be reached quickly but water heating will be slower or use stored heat in the mass from the last burn.
@@Barskor1 care to explain your opinion further? In a rocket stove, it's the exhaust gas that does the work of heating. If everything before the exhaust exits is insulated, where other than the gas itself does the heat go? The point is that fast combustion and a hot combustion chamber is very efficient. It's after that point you use the heat for work. It doesn't slow anything down.
@@yodab.at1746 If you wanted to maximize the burn of the rocket stove gasses, you could run a secondary shaft for air alongside the exhaust intersecting at a point a couple inches above the final combustion height and create a secondary oxygenated burn point for the excess wood gasses. That's how those smokeless firepits work. Depending on the vertical space available for your design, you could burn off most of the wood gas and waste less of the fuel's potential energy output in the process. Beyond that that, you can stick a 6" chimney pipe catalytic insert in to convert remaining greenhouse gasses to safer output.
Awesome upload as always!! Thank You so Much for bringing me this Memory.. This was the basis of my Greenhouse heater and I could do my own Cooking on the Top,,,thus avoiding my mother altogether!!😁 I had a fantastic Black grape vine in there, alongside an Early Asparagus, and other plants that needed the warmth that we just didn't get up North!! The cats used to sleep out in there as well,,, because in the Winter months,it was Warmer than the house!!😎👍👍
What a coincidence that today at 39 years old I got my childhood box with photos of me having a bath in a bucket in the garden as a baby. This would be such a good way to save £150 a month by converting this system to run both my central heating and hot water system. COMMUNITY PROJECT. I do believe the competitions should start to focus on real world problems with useful solutions.
I agree mate - but there is an issue of folks having the skills and resources - I am currently trying to make the competitions open to as many folks as possible
I are one smart guy look your sense of humor and inventory and very crafty with your hands and a awesome entertainer! I will be u watching a lot for now own! I don’t hand out complements u r at the very top! Keep the videos coming ! Love them
Not really keen on plastic pipes and metal work beyond copper tubing, but I understand this video is mostly a proof of concept and it does its job perfectly. I am starting designing my heating system based on all the excellent videos in this channel and others, so thanks for the inspiration. I'd like to keep the air intake and exhaust outside of the house, as well as the fuel intake, with the combustion chamber inside the house but never in direct contact with the air from the room. A secondary air circulation system would also provide heated air, not just heated water or radiating infrared from a heat accumulator such as clay. Lastly, if I can find how to incorporate it, I would like to start with one fuel such as wood, but also allow to connect later on a barrel of recycled cooking oil or a bottle of propane/butane or methane from compost as well as solar vacuum tubes for a bit of redundancy, resiliency and tinkering... I also plan to set up a glass house on the south wall of the house, which will require winter heating as well, so I am thinking about a large underground steel water tank that could store enough heat for the glass house and maybe low temperature heated floor or walls, since the whole house needs renovating anyway.
When you make a Cooper pipe winding around the stove you could get a flow without a pump. Our old Wood Burner could run without electrisity only with the flow through the warmer water going Up. You could make a similar thing with a Tank for warm water in RV or Tiny Home. The problem would be with too hot water. The simplest solution would be to make the winding detachable but then you have to be there the whole time or you can make two exhaust's and shut down the one with the winding at 85°C. The water Tank would also be a good reservoir for the heat at night.
Great little water heater. Super simple. just found a gas bottle to do the same thing. I was thinking of using a copper coil inside the drum around the heat riser surrounded by insulation to avoid the issue of potential rust in the water?
@@ThinkingandTinkering liquid metal is pretty good for that and also with stands a very high temperature, like SealXpert that can withstand temps of upto 230C. One question i have, I only have a gasless mig welder is that ok to use or do i need the arc welder with rods?, thanks in advance.
Great job! As it stands it would be a great heater for the spa pool on your deck! Of course, if you want to heat water with fire, the lads at your local Model Engineers Society club will point you in the direction of more efficient boilers, starting with the Scotch Marine, locomotive horizontal tube types etc. All have been pretty well optimised over the years to make best use of the available fuel. For your version, splitting the draught into say nine (3x3) horizontal tubes between the firebox and the vertical chimney section would substantially increase the heat transfer surface for gas and water, and hence improve efficiency. You may need a slightly taller chimney to improve the draft, and ensure full combustion. I would drill a vent hole in the top of the gas cylinder too, as a safety valve if water circulation ceased in the primary circuit (eg someone's knickers get sucked into the bottom line!;) . Good stuff!
The surface area between the stove and the tank is much greater than just running pipes through, in my opinion. It would also affect the performance of the stove, itself, and negatively.
Hi Robert & everyone else There is a thought going through my mind when it comes to the energy crisis (here in Austria it's not ony fuel) If I would place a renticular lens close enough in front of a parabolic mirror so that the light would not fokus on one point but be guided in a streight line ... for instance into a window (maybe with a big dark rock behind) Would that make a safe way to reduce heating cost on sunny winter days (given that there are more than one parabolic dishes)
absolutely fantastic you my friend are one of a kind . i have made your rocket stove and filled it with sand to heat my shed as i was using gas (far to expensive) now i use wood and wood pellets (very cheap) and burn clean. The pellets turn to a light dust and gets sucked out the chimney. im looking into a home made hopper to keep this heater going all winter. the temperature im getting from the heater can be regulated with the air intake door quarter, half or full open. i can keep this temperature at 26c every day all day..... Thank you again Allen
Nice fabrication. Nice shop. A man with gumption could use this for warm water heat in home or RV. That's a very small, simple apparatus that could heat up a whole lot of water, with that setup. They make flat water tanks for RVs. Get a high-capacity flat tank and heat it up with one short burn. Something like that, insulated on its sides and bottom, would probably keep the floor warm for hours. Solve all your heating problems off-grid, and burn less wood. Speaking of burning less wood, I wonder how many loads it took to be just below scalding level? I got a kick out of how much your body language proved how hot it was. That'd be pretty hard to fake. Awesome. You had to hold that water a second before hitting your face, but you couldn't hold the water for that long. Good chuckle.
5:25 Puts one hand in the hot water; PAIN! Naturally he puts the other hand in the hot water; MORE PAIN! At long last I've found my identical twin brother 🙂
A Funny mad man in the carpark washing himself with water too hot is a good thing. If I can make one suggestion for an an alternative to the rocket stove, that being a sawdust heater, look them up. These can burn for considerable amounts of time without recharge, a rubbish can can do it..
Brilliant.. Just discovered your channel, this heater could work brilliantly with a project I'm planning, for the reservoir I'm going to use a hot tub! What do you think?
connect to a CH pump and the CH system et voila! Do you think the heat produced by this method would be able to heat 5 rads in mid-winter with outside temp at 0*C if kept alight? Interesting thought.
Ive seen a mini version of this kind of design that is even more simple and is just some copper coil in a two buckets with a lump of charcoal in the center of the coil.
I very much like your projects, and subscribe. I wonder if you can expand how you would turn the water heater into a sand battery to constantly heat water or create electricity. That will be very informative.
He was talking about mass heat exchange. Sand doesn't have the highest heat capacity, but even sand sleeve around the stove would create a heat sink that would store heat and give it back over time.
Maybe by putting the gas tank on the chimney like a kettle you get the same results but with a lot less work ;-) Looks cool do! I started building a J model with a 4,5 foot feeder tube so it can go on for a long time without refilling! Wondering if it will work..
for heat batteries best is to use PCM (phase change materials.) Most common one is paraffin but u can use better capacity & organic but much more expensive ones like bees wax or some alloys
Consider a variation of this where instead of a water jacket surrounding the riser, you instead had a plastic pyrolysis chamber. Using minimal wood to pyrolyze waste plastic back into diesel fuel and gasoline...
Hi Rob. Good work. I have a prototype version of a mono tube boiler it’s only got 12 meters of copper coil and can do 10 to 15 psi. I need to work on the water input more. But running it manually is a bit of work.
Interesting so hot spot in tube pushes water/steam to cool off in the rest of the tube coming round to be reheated are you using a Tesla valvular to keep the flow monodirectional and do you have a turbine in the tube to generate electricity? Edit are you making the system a circle, oval or some other shape to limit energy loss or water hammer impacts from corners?
Brilliant concept, and seems efficient. Thank you for sharing. I would like to weld one myself, and actually have most of the materials on hand, but seriously. How long did it take you to make all those watertight welds? I always get a ton of pinholes when i do stuff like this, and I can't quite figure out how to make sure it's water tight. I'm quite the newb.
It might be easier to use a copper coil in contact with the furnace. Since these will eventually rust and become harder to maintain. But to answer your question. If you are stuck welding make sure you know the type of metal your welding. Pair the type of stick and size. Try and weld with horizontals only. Make sure the metal is clean by grinding the edges you are to weld. Weld with the stick being pulled back from the start, no pushing or tapping. Make sure the amps are atleast in the middle of the recommendation on the sticks you have. Keep the stick as close as possible without digging or dragging. Use a bit of a angle away from the weld rather than holding stick at a 90. Go slow enough that you have enough material becoming a puddle, watch the puddle since you want the melted metal infront of the slag. The slag should rise to the top. If you have spattering something isn't set right. Don't go over old welds or fix areas until you have cleaned away the slag. Most porosity is slag that is encased in the weld. Practice on some scraps that are from the job to rehearse and get comfortable and confident, to ensure you won't blow a hole through. Ideally you want slag that just falls off. Some stick types have a frustratingly thick/dense flux that is harder to control (6013) running electrode positive will give less penetration, negative will give more penetration. So you may want to run electrode positive if these are thin metal work pieces. But this configuration won't last long. The heat and the water will cause the steel to rust quickly. It requires an anode placed in the tank. With an enamel coating on all the metal in the tank, usually a polyurea. It will ravage the welds first, and any weak metal there.
That's very neat. I have a similar arrangement, but using a gas boiler to heat glycol to circulate through a calorifier. I imagine your chimney won't last long with fire on one side and water on the other.
@@ThinkingandTinkering I was referring corrosion, not stress. Heat and water both facilitate rust. That's why we use glycol with corrosion inhibitors both in engines and calorifiers. And stove back burners that work in a similar fashion to your rocket stove heater.
Might wanna make the rocket stove out of stainless, else your hot water is gonna be contaminated with rust...which leads you to another issue ..you cant weld dissimilar metals..you'll need your butane tank to also be stainless..which you probably wont be able to find....superb video though, keep it up
I wonder how long after the fire has extinguished would it continue to heat water if you ran the water through a copper coil, sligtly spaced away from the Chimney and the mass contained around both the aforementioned was Sand. Essentially a Rocket Stove, mass heater, water heater come Sand Battery.
very cool build but why not just wrap the stack in copper tubing and circulate the water through that? hot water doesnt hold as much heat as concrete but it can do the same thing to a degree, add a heat exchanger on to that tank of hot water and you could heat a small room with a very small fire
unless you used micropore you would be on a challenge to get the copper pipe close enough so that heat losses were minimised then it would act more like a flash boiler in which case steam bubbles in the pipe would be an issue - you can do it mate and it is a good idea but there are more technical challenges to overcome - this is pretty simple and effective
@@ThinkingandTinkering I never considered any of that. I've used copper coils around radiator hoses, exhaust pipes, on a barbecue grill and laid out in the sun to heat a tank of water
Therefore: Treat the reservoir as the heat sink and the rocket stove (with water jacket) as a heat generator. Which reinstates the smaller rocket stove as they generate heaps of heat energy. Project: your workshop's heat needs in winter (i.e. aiming for very comfortable). What would be the ideal setup taking into consideration the CO² concerns: smallest possible R.stove outside, size and shape of jacket, transfer to the heat sink (distance), etc. hint: have a shower before you leave at the end of the day as any sweat/oil on the skin multiplies the effects of the cold; ask any long term motorcyclist. II: different direction: could an R.stove be used as a steam generator for a (not particularly complex) turbine to make electricity?
Hi Robert, love the videos on rocket stoves. I'm wondering if the water would still flow if you put it in a figure 8 type setup where the cold water comes from the top and hot delivered to the bottom, will that speed up the heating time? Since heated air rises, I thought it might work with water as well. Please let me know what your thoughts are on this. Thank you.
Its all driven by the density gradients. Less dense hot water slithers across the top pipe, displacing colder water which is shoved from the reservoir into the boiler via the bottom pipe. It would work better if the reservoir was raised a bit, so the flow was up-hill boiler to reservoir, and downhill reservoir to boiler. That way too, you could have the upper pipe entering the reservoir lower down the side of the tank, which then improves mixing as the entering hotter water rises up thru the reservoir. Ideally the flow rate is such that the system operates near-isothermally - i.e. the temperature of the water leaving the boiler is only just warmer than the temperature of the water entering. That way the heat transfer from fire to water is working best. That implies a high flow rate, so big circulation pipes.
Robert, would making a heat exchanger from copper pipe like the stuff that is used in air conditioners of old using water instead of gas ??? The idea came to me when reading that Albert Einstein developed something like that years ago without using any energy to move the gases with an electric motor. Nice work fella for sure.
@@Milkybar3320011 IRC home water heater tanks are made of those materials so find one that someone tossed because they don't know how to demineralize the heating element and get to the DIYing.
Iv been toying with the idea of using something like this to heat my workshop/paint booth. My thinking was i could run the hot water to a large van of truck radiator, and draw my intake air for the paint booth through the radiator. Keeping heat in the room when the extraction is running 🤔
What if you used and old water heater tank retro fitted with a rocket stove rather than its traditional heating element you could potentially heat your house water "off grid" and with today's power prices only going up at least reduce your power bill (assuming your water heater is outside and you kept the fire burning or lit it 20 mins in advance to use)
@@ThinkingandTinkering here in Aus they are stainless Steel so are a bit more common to find on the side of the road. Being all copper would have many advantages though can't wait to see your results
Get an old discarded radiator from a car or from a I don't know anything of air conditioner and run only the air conditioner inside and hook a fan to it keep the heating part outside you put enough wood in it just to run it up to temperature and see how much heat you can generate inside your shop from a small load of wood doing that with a small fan
I've been trying to plan how to heat water for a motorhome shower using a rocket stove - because they burn less wood, much more cleanly, for fast and high heat. I've been thinking of using thick-walled round stainless steel pipe to build the rocket stove, then coiling copper tubing around the outside of the chimney to heat water. Using round pipe for the stove means no right angles - making for easily coiling of coil tubing without kinking, and slightly less chance of wood getting jammed inside the feed tube. I need to research whether stainless steel would cope with the hottest temperature a rocket stove produces (not melt/degrade the stainless), as well whether copper pipe reacts with stainless steel - and/or with the added heat. If a rocket stove CAN be made of stainless steel, not react and corrode away, but copper does react with stainless, maybe the copper tubing could be separated from the stainless chimney using something... fire clay maybe, sand, concrete - a thin layer so the heat still transfers quickly without the two metals reacting. The next problem is how to adjust, or at least set at one level, the water temperature so it's not too cold, or scalding hot. (Because it won't be like a normal shower where you turn the cold tap on more to reduce the temperature of the hot tap... you have to maintain close to the same volume the entire shower - the same few litres recirculated over and over so it doesn't "flood." The idea is you wash your dirtiest parts first and those first few litres of water get dumped on the ground or pumped into in a black water tank. Then you switch the taps/valves over to recirculate. The same few litres of water now go through the system over and over. The shower base has an insert with hundreds of holes. Between the shower base and that insert is say a bath towel as an easy and rough filter to catch loose hair, old bandaids, etc so they don't block the pump. That roughly-filtered water is then pumped from the shower sump back through the copper tubing wound around the rocket stove chimney to be reheated. Thus the same few litres of water get recirculated over and over providing a much longer shower than you normally could enjoy in a motorhome. At the end you switch the taps/valves back for a final rinse with clean soap-free water. e.g. To flush any soap residue from your hair. So yeah... learning the "reactiveness" of metal and how to set the temp is holding me back. I don't want to have to rebuild the thing every 6 months because it was highly reactive so corroded away, lol.
I am always amazed at the difference between the US and Britton in the US you have to put down a deposit on the bottles nobody just throws away a bottle or you are out 10 dollars if you did your employees or a guy doing recycling would pick it up fast I have never seen a bottle anywhere in 40 years
Does that mean you could have a steam boiler? With a closed circuit turbine generator? If it took half an hour to get going? Then what would the fuel to energy production be?
@@ThinkingandTinkering as far I remember the pressure valve are usually set at 3 time less than maximum pressure. Your lucky that you can boiler test the thing with water. In most cases 110 psi for locomotive boilers. Usually it a tappers thread. As most boiler test go, are somewhere around 500-600psi. Mainly to check from weld stress and structural integrity. Not a bad thing in this case. Would love to see a steampunk build. Though I’d let a boiler maker check first. If your not certify? It how some of the modeller get around the regs. By making share it has the correct tickets. The thing is you now can attached an accumulator. Then your away. Supper heater coils in the flume. Marvellous! Not sure of the bamboo quad would accept the boiler. But would be awesome to see. Soo many options for modular design. Steltic (steam electric) fascinated me.
Priceless knowledge your passing on and exploring here with us ALL! This could LITERALLY be saving lives soon as with the mass thermal heater idea exploration with this! Think you deserve a knighthood! (Sir!) Cheers from London 👍😎🏴🇬🇧🙏
Nice work, but a fundamentally flawed design. You are cooling the combustion core and making it an incomplete burn and inefficient. You need to insulate the combustion core (burn tunnel and heat riser) so it gets as hot as possible, and put your heat exchanger in or around the exhaust from the riser.
@@ThinkingandTinkering fair enough, I just like the idea of a tool to be able to do as many things as possible, basically getting the most out of it in one go.
My understanding of the rocket stove mass heater design is that the combustion chamber section is insulated to keep the temperatures hot and combustion as complete as possible.
By placing the water jacket around the stove, I cannot say what the temperatures inside the stove are, but the water jacket side is going to be 100 deg C (212 deg F). This, would seem counter to the rocket stove concept. By extracting the heat at that stage, you cool the combustion reducing efficiency.
In a rocket stove, the hot flu gases coming out of the top are not the waste byproduct or an exhaust byproduct, they are the main product of the process.
In RSMH practice a bell chamber is placed over the vertical pipe to trap the heat a create a secondary burn of the wood gases created in the first stage. Then the hot exhaust from that is channeled into horizontal chimney piping surrounded by thermal mass(cob dirt, sand, concrete often in the shape of a bench or long bed) for long term storage. The bell gives radiant heat right away, and the thermal mass stores it to be released slowly over the course of a day or night.
There are other water heating designs that wrap the vertical section with coiled copper tubing, but they seem to miss the point as well. The hot gas moving up and creating the draft is not the byproduct. It IS the product.
As a test, how long would it take to boil water in a tea kettle placed on top of the vertical shaft?
It’s a great build, but when I saw the gas tank my first thought was ‘place it right over the top, what could be easier?’
Thanks so much, Robert!
The bell in RSMH isn't for secondary burn. All the burning takes place by or before exiting the riser. I think the bell has more to do with driving the air flow (or rather "pulling"). The idea is that the volume of the space between the bell and the riser is greater than the volume of the riser. No. That's not quite right. It's more about the cross-sectional area, because we're talking about the flow of an elastic fluid (gas). Cooling takes place instantly as the air leaves the riser, lowering the pressure in the bell relative to the pressure of the riser, giving the gases only one direction to go, and forcing it along with more force and velocity than you would obtain by convection (heat rises), alone.
I really need to learn my thermodynamics and P1V1/T1 = P2V2/T2 stuff (gas laws).
You can get the rocket sound without insulating the riser. As RMS has shown in his other stove builds, placing a mantle or any kind of chimney greatly aids combustion.
All gasifier wood stoves inject oxygen-enriched air into the exhaust gases to complete the burn. That's the only thing I'm sketchy about. I THINK venturi effect keeps the air into the secondary chamber and not back out, but I'd have to think about/test it before being confident I could build one that's safe for indoors. I think that a RSMH works better if you can port fresh air into the base of the riser.
Not being critical. Just expressing my current, imperfect understanding - which is quite tentative - in declarative sentences that sound like I'm more certain than I am.
Love it. For a post apocalypse style world you and these videos will be made of gold! Thank you!
Glad you like them!
Unfortunately Ukraine is already facing an apocalyptic type senario. The majority of the videos on here would be very useful to have there.
TH-cam won't be available in an apocalypse. We need to make back ups 😅
Oh, someone said the same thing as i did, note to self read the comments before posting hahaha
@@steven161183 Or *gasp* write it all down in books!
I love your tutorials.Most tutors a simply a pain to listen to. You explain very clear and understandable, the cam really shows what one actually wants to take a good look at. On top of, you have a awesome way of talking, keeping up a fresh laugh anytime. Thank you for your shared craft, work and ideas, lots of it i use to renovate our old house. Good as gold, not only having sm off grid hot water. Big thanks from me and my all family. Keep it up! 😊
He doesn't waste time. Many people PREFER the waste of time and tons of repetition. It depends on how slow a learner you are and how much spoon-feeding you require.
It's a great idea... However. The Idea of a rocket stove is to get absolute clean and complete combustion. This is achieved by keeping the stack as hot as possible and ideally should be lagged from the combustion chamber up by around 750mm. This causes a good draw and retains heat so even smoke is burnt. Obviously putting a water jacket around this part removes the heat and warms the water, but the consequence is incomplete combustion. The idea of the rocket stove is so you have no smoke, the only thing coming from the stack is ultimately condensate, gas and the moisture in the fuel being burnt. No particulates should be present in a correctly running rocket stove.
When the stack is lagged, it's the exhaust gases that are used to do the heating. One design is to put a barrel over the stack creating a chamber that the (extremely hot) exhaust gases heat. The exhaust outlet from the chamber does not need to be vertical because that is not where the draw for the burn chamber comes from. A horizontal outlet can be used and this is what the mass is built around. For water heating, the barrel could have the heat exchanger within it.
The main point is that the short section of stack immediately exiting the combustion chamber must have it's heat retained for the stove to work as a 'rocket'. The word rocket was adopted due to the wooshing sound made by the very strong draw and very rapid combustion of fuel.
I was a bit of a geek around this type of stove, it piqued my OCD.... 👍
awesome mate - nice add thanks for taking the time to write that = plenty to think about - cheers
@@ThinkingandTinkering very nice welding btw 👍😁.
I think a correctly running rocket stove could answer the particulate pollution problem in urban areas. Done well, they are highly efficient. I suppose NoX output could be a potential issue with extreme combustion temperature, although going there would need a ceramic burn chamber to avoid potential melting of metal. Modern bio mass furnaces use similar principles to achieve really high combustion temps, forced air flow being one.
I suppose the only draw back is not having the comforting visual aspect of burning wood in a glass door stove.
IMO it just slows down how long it takes to reach optimal temp and if you have insulating mass then copper tubing or water tank the optimal temp can be reached quickly but water heating will be slower or use stored heat in the mass from the last burn.
@@Barskor1 care to explain your opinion further?
In a rocket stove, it's the exhaust gas that does the work of heating. If everything before the exhaust exits is insulated, where other than the gas itself does the heat go?
The point is that fast combustion and a hot combustion chamber is very efficient. It's after that point you use the heat for work. It doesn't slow anything down.
@@yodab.at1746 If you wanted to maximize the burn of the rocket stove gasses, you could run a secondary shaft for air alongside the exhaust intersecting at a point a couple inches above the final combustion height and create a secondary oxygenated burn point for the excess wood gasses. That's how those smokeless firepits work. Depending on the vertical space available for your design, you could burn off most of the wood gas and waste less of the fuel's potential energy output in the process. Beyond that that, you can stick a 6" chimney pipe catalytic insert in to convert remaining greenhouse gasses to safer output.
that montage turned out really well. awesome job. great project!
Thank you! Cheers!
Awesome upload as always!!
Thank You so Much for bringing me this Memory..
This was the basis of my Greenhouse heater and I could do my own Cooking on the Top,,,thus avoiding my mother altogether!!😁
I had a fantastic Black grape vine in there, alongside an Early Asparagus, and other plants that needed the warmth that we just didn't get up North!!
The cats used to sleep out in there as well,,, because in the Winter months,it was Warmer than the house!!😎👍👍
they are astounding. heaters - glad you liked it
It’s a Ghillie kettle! Good work.
What a coincidence that today at 39 years old I got my childhood box with photos of me having a bath in a bucket in the garden as a baby.
This would be such a good way to save £150 a month by converting this system to run both my central heating and hot water system.
COMMUNITY PROJECT.
I do believe the competitions should start to focus on real world problems with useful solutions.
I agree mate - but there is an issue of folks having the skills and resources - I am currently trying to make the competitions open to as many folks as possible
@@ThinkingandTinkering that's fair and real mate. I had a racing mind last night 🤣🤣
This channel is priceless.
I are one smart guy look your sense of humor and inventory and very crafty with your hands and a awesome entertainer! I will be u watching a lot for now own! I don’t hand out complements u r at the very top! Keep the videos coming ! Love them
Good job on water tight stick welds.
it took a bit mate lol
Not really keen on plastic pipes and metal work beyond copper tubing, but I understand this video is mostly a proof of concept and it does its job perfectly. I am starting designing my heating system based on all the excellent videos in this channel and others, so thanks for the inspiration.
I'd like to keep the air intake and exhaust outside of the house, as well as the fuel intake, with the combustion chamber inside the house but never in direct contact with the air from the room. A secondary air circulation system would also provide heated air, not just heated water or radiating infrared from a heat accumulator such as clay. Lastly, if I can find how to incorporate it, I would like to start with one fuel such as wood, but also allow to connect later on a barrel of recycled cooking oil or a bottle of propane/butane or methane from compost as well as solar vacuum tubes for a bit of redundancy, resiliency and tinkering...
I also plan to set up a glass house on the south wall of the house, which will require winter heating as well, so I am thinking about a large underground steel water tank that could store enough heat for the glass house and maybe low temperature heated floor or walls, since the whole house needs renovating anyway.
Bloody brilliant! Nice one!
Thank you kindly sir - cheers
Well done, finally something usefull for the next winter...👍🏻❤️❤️❤️
absolutely - cheers mate
Really nice project, thanks for sharing 🎉
I hope you found it helpful mate
For sure! 👏
When you make a Cooper pipe winding around the stove you could get a flow without a pump. Our old Wood Burner could run without electrisity only with the flow through the warmer water going Up. You could make a similar thing with a Tank for warm water in RV or Tiny Home. The problem would be with too hot water. The simplest solution would be to make the winding detachable but then you have to be there the whole time or you can make two exhaust's and shut down the one with the winding at 85°C. The water Tank would also be a good reservoir for the heat at night.
You should isolate the riser, not to cool it. And take away heat in a spot where burning is over.
Great little water heater. Super simple. just found a gas bottle to do the same thing. I was thinking of using a copper coil inside the drum around the heat riser surrounded by insulation to avoid the issue of potential rust in the water?
Now that’s a cool idea!!! Love it
Nice to see you welding old school way !
Great Rob, now build a time machine and attach a bath to it and send it to Napoleone di Buonaparte so he can take a bath at Waterloo.
lol - nice one mate!
Excellent idea very good and very easy to make. i have a few empty gas bottles which i may give this a go. Thanks
that's awesome - the tricky bit is welding it so it doesn't leak
@@ThinkingandTinkering liquid metal is pretty good for that and also with stands a very high temperature, like SealXpert that can withstand temps of upto 230C.
One question i have, I only have a gasless mig welder is that ok to use or do i need the arc welder with rods?, thanks in advance.
@@Dr-Sy that will be fine mate after all most of it can't really get hotter than 100C
Nothing stopping people from packing more mass around that tank of water ether it is a sweet bit O'kit Robert.
Great job! As it stands it would be a great heater for the spa pool on your deck! Of course, if you want to heat water with fire, the lads at your local Model Engineers Society club will point you in the direction of more efficient boilers, starting with the Scotch Marine, locomotive horizontal tube types etc. All have been pretty well optimised over the years to make best use of the available fuel.
For your version, splitting the draught into say nine (3x3) horizontal tubes between the firebox and the vertical chimney section would substantially increase the heat transfer surface for gas and water, and hence improve efficiency. You may need a slightly taller chimney to improve the draft, and ensure full combustion.
I would drill a vent hole in the top of the gas cylinder too, as a safety valve if water circulation ceased in the primary circuit (eg someone's knickers get sucked into the bottom line!;)
.
Good stuff!
The surface area between the stove and the tank is much greater than just running pipes through, in my opinion. It would also affect the performance of the stove, itself, and negatively.
@@harrymills2770 maybe do the math n report back please.
Always good to watch good work from good ideas.
Would a radiator backed with a fan, into a duct be a useful forced air system?
Now I just need to figure out how to make a visually appealing radiator hose & reservoir system to make a fire heated soaking tub!
Don't you just love the British humor! "Don't give a monkey's..."
That was cool.
I mean hot!
Fantastic.
lol - awesome
fantastic.. looking for a similar one to heat my swimingpool for the kids, and then with wood pellets..
Combustion chamber and heat riser need insulated for best results.
A coil inside of the barrel of a typical rmh makes a good water heater
Hi Robert & everyone else
There is a thought going through my mind when it comes to the energy crisis (here in Austria it's not ony fuel)
If I would place a renticular lens close enough in front of a parabolic mirror so that the light would not fokus on one point but be guided in a streight line ... for instance into a window (maybe with a big dark rock behind)
Would that make a safe way to reduce heating cost on sunny winter days (given that there are more than one parabolic dishes)
Ha Ha Ha Haaa. BRILLIANT Rob
Bless Up Fella
absolutely fantastic you my friend are one of a kind . i have made your rocket stove and filled it with sand to heat my shed as i was using gas (far to expensive) now i use wood and wood pellets (very cheap) and burn clean. The pellets turn to a light dust and gets sucked out the chimney. im looking into a home made hopper to keep this heater going all winter. the temperature im getting from the heater can be regulated with the air intake door quarter, half or full open. i can keep this temperature at 26c every day all day..... Thank you again Allen
Nice fabrication. Nice shop.
A man with gumption could use this for warm water heat in home or RV. That's a very small, simple apparatus that could heat up a whole lot of water, with that setup. They make flat water tanks for RVs. Get a high-capacity flat tank and heat it up with one short burn. Something like that, insulated on its sides and bottom, would probably keep the floor warm for hours. Solve all your heating problems off-grid, and burn less wood.
Speaking of burning less wood, I wonder how many loads it took to be just below scalding level?
I got a kick out of how much your body language proved how hot it was. That'd be pretty hard to fake. Awesome. You had to hold that water a second before hitting your face, but you couldn't hold the water for that long. Good chuckle.
5:25 Puts one hand in the hot water; PAIN! Naturally he puts the other hand in the hot water; MORE PAIN!
At long last I've found my identical twin brother 🙂
A Funny mad man in the carpark washing himself with water too hot is a good thing. If I can make one suggestion for an an alternative to the rocket stove, that being a sawdust heater, look them up. These can burn for considerable amounts of time without recharge, a rubbish can can do it..
I will look them up mate - thanks for the heads up
Brilliant.. Just discovered your channel, this heater could work brilliantly with a project I'm planning, for the reservoir I'm going to use a hot tub! What do you think?
You could put a copper coil in the plastic drum and connect it heating in a house slab.
connect to a CH pump and the CH system et voila! Do you think the heat produced by this method would be able to heat 5 rads in mid-winter with outside temp at 0*C if kept alight? Interesting thought.
yeah I think it probably would mate
Ive seen a mini version of this kind of design that is even more simple and is just some copper coil in a two buckets with a lump of charcoal in the center of the coil.
How about just wrapping copper tube around the stove?
Still a load of heat going up through the chimney, you should put a fry-up on it. 😊
oh yeah lol
I very much like your projects, and subscribe. I wonder if you can expand how you would turn the water heater into a sand battery to constantly heat water or create electricity. That will be very informative.
on it mate
He was talking about mass heat exchange. Sand doesn't have the highest heat capacity, but even sand sleeve around the stove would create a heat sink that would store heat and give it back over time.
Maybe by putting the gas tank on the chimney like a kettle you get the same results but with a lot less work ;-) Looks cool do! I started building a J model with a 4,5 foot feeder tube so it can go on for a long time without refilling! Wondering if it will work..
That is a neat water heater. Why not make an insulated solar hot water heater for your home using convection to circulate the water?
for heat batteries best is to use PCM (phase change materials.) Most common one is paraffin but u can use better capacity & organic but much more expensive ones like bees wax or some alloys
I am sorry mate I disagree - PCM is one way to go for sure but there are alternatives
Consider a variation of this where instead of a water jacket surrounding the riser, you instead had a plastic pyrolysis chamber. Using minimal wood to pyrolyze waste plastic back into diesel fuel and gasoline...
Love this guy
wow - thank you mate
Hi Rob. Good work. I have a prototype version of a mono tube boiler it’s only got 12 meters of copper coil and can do 10 to 15 psi. I need to work on the water input more. But running it manually is a bit of work.
are you doing a video on it mate?
Interesting so hot spot in tube pushes water/steam to cool off in the rest of the tube coming round to be reheated are you using a Tesla valvular to keep the flow monodirectional and do you have a turbine in the tube to generate electricity? Edit are you making the system a circle, oval or some other shape to limit energy loss or water hammer impacts from corners?
Brilliant concept, and seems efficient. Thank you for sharing.
I would like to weld one myself, and actually have most of the materials on hand, but seriously. How long did it take you to make all those watertight welds?
I always get a ton of pinholes when i do stuff like this, and I can't quite figure out how to make sure it's water tight.
I'm quite the newb.
It might be easier to use a copper coil in contact with the furnace. Since these will eventually rust and become harder to maintain.
But to answer your question. If you are stuck welding make sure you know the type of metal your welding. Pair the type of stick and size. Try and weld with horizontals only. Make sure the metal is clean by grinding the edges you are to weld. Weld with the stick being pulled back from the start, no pushing or tapping. Make sure the amps are atleast in the middle of the recommendation on the sticks you have. Keep the stick as close as possible without digging or dragging. Use a bit of a angle away from the weld rather than holding stick at a 90. Go slow enough that you have enough material becoming a puddle, watch the puddle since you want the melted metal infront of the slag. The slag should rise to the top. If you have spattering something isn't set right. Don't go over old welds or fix areas until you have cleaned away the slag. Most porosity is slag that is encased in the weld. Practice on some scraps that are from the job to rehearse and get comfortable and confident, to ensure you won't blow a hole through. Ideally you want slag that just falls off. Some stick types have a frustratingly thick/dense flux that is harder to control (6013) running electrode positive will give less penetration, negative will give more penetration. So you may want to run electrode positive if these are thin metal work pieces.
But this configuration won't last long. The heat and the water will cause the steel to rust quickly. It requires an anode placed in the tank. With an enamel coating on all the metal in the tank, usually a polyurea. It will ravage the welds first, and any weak metal there.
Looks good too, nice idea
Thank you! Cheers!
That's very neat. I have a similar arrangement, but using a gas boiler to heat glycol to circulate through a calorifier. I imagine your chimney won't last long with fire on one side and water on the other.
I don't know - it should even out the thermal stress I would have thought - only time will tell on that mate
@@ThinkingandTinkering I was referring corrosion, not stress. Heat and water both facilitate rust. That's why we use glycol with corrosion inhibitors both in engines and calorifiers. And stove back burners that work in a similar fashion to your rocket stove heater.
@@ChristieNel oh right - well that's nice info right there mate - thanks for adding it
Any idea how much wood you burned to heat up how much water? Is the Stirling engine CHP project still happening?
That first question was first in my head too. Second was wondering what species.
no mate - sorry I wasn't that careful in measuring stuff - I will have to rerun it and see - and yes when I get to it
A great water heater design Rob.
For a mass heater is sand better than concrete, or is it being used because it is cheaper?
sand is better mate - but I am going to go into this a bit
@@ThinkingandTinkering Insulating air gaps in the sand right?
Genius
Might wanna make the rocket stove out of stainless, else your hot water is gonna be contaminated with rust...which leads you to another issue ..you cant weld dissimilar metals..you'll need your butane tank to also be stainless..which you probably wont be able to find....superb video though, keep it up
I wonder how long after the fire has extinguished would it continue to heat water if you ran the water through a copper coil, sligtly spaced away from the Chimney and the mass contained around both the aforementioned was Sand. Essentially a Rocket Stove, mass heater, water heater come Sand Battery.
very cool build but why not just wrap the stack in copper tubing and circulate the water through that? hot water doesnt hold as much heat as concrete but it can do the same thing to a degree, add a heat exchanger on to that tank of hot water and you could heat a small room with a very small fire
unless you used micropore you would be on a challenge to get the copper pipe close enough so that heat losses were minimised then it would act more like a flash boiler in which case steam bubbles in the pipe would be an issue - you can do it mate and it is a good idea but there are more technical challenges to overcome - this is pretty simple and effective
@@ThinkingandTinkering I never considered any of that. I've used copper coils around radiator hoses, exhaust pipes, on a barbecue grill and laid out in the sun to heat a tank of water
By the way the vid and thr general idea is great.
Where you getting that hardy rocket sound ? An awesome sound it is !
it is indeed
Have you ever tried your conductive ink in electrolysis of water, to produce hho gas?
Love the show 💪🏾😎
1404 is part 1, what number is part 2, unable to find it on your channel listing. thanks for doing such a great job on everything Robert
I will Check now mate
Therefore: Treat the reservoir as the heat sink and the rocket stove (with water jacket) as a heat generator. Which reinstates the smaller rocket stove as they generate heaps of heat energy.
Project: your workshop's heat needs in winter (i.e. aiming for very comfortable). What would be the ideal setup taking into consideration the CO² concerns: smallest possible R.stove outside, size and shape of jacket, transfer to the heat sink (distance), etc.
hint: have a shower before you leave at the end of the day as any sweat/oil on the skin multiplies the effects of the cold; ask any long term motorcyclist.
II: different direction: could an R.stove be used as a steam generator for a (not particularly complex) turbine to make electricity?
oh yeah - you would have to watch the pressure build up is all
Hi Robert, love the videos on rocket stoves.
I'm wondering if the water would still flow if you put it in a figure 8 type setup where the cold water comes from the top and hot delivered to the bottom, will that speed up the heating time? Since heated air rises, I thought it might work with water as well. Please let me know what your thoughts are on this. Thank you.
Its all driven by the density gradients. Less dense hot water slithers across the top pipe, displacing colder water which is shoved from the reservoir into the boiler via the bottom pipe.
It would work better if the reservoir was raised a bit, so the flow was up-hill boiler to reservoir, and downhill reservoir to boiler. That way too, you could have the upper pipe entering the reservoir lower down the side of the tank, which then improves mixing as the entering hotter water rises up thru the reservoir.
Ideally the flow rate is such that the system operates near-isothermally - i.e. the temperature of the water leaving the boiler is only just warmer than the temperature of the water entering. That way the heat transfer from fire to water is working best. That implies a high flow rate, so big circulation pipes.
Robert, would making a heat exchanger from copper pipe like the stuff that is used in air conditioners of old using water instead of gas ??? The idea came to me when reading that Albert Einstein developed something like that years ago without using any energy to move the gases with an electric motor. Nice work fella for sure.
One assumes the water goes rusty brown after a bit of use, but as a simple heating system………………..
nicely done as usual.
Use a stainless steel tank copper tank or copper tubing.
@@Barskor1 a nice thought, but I haven’t seen any gas cylinder made out of stainless or copper
@@Milkybar3320011 IRC home water heater tanks are made of those materials so find one that someone tossed because they don't know how to demineralize the heating element and get to the DIYing.
Iv been toying with the idea of using something like this to heat my workshop/paint booth.
My thinking was i could run the hot water to a large van of truck radiator, and draw my intake air for the paint booth through the radiator. Keeping heat in the room when the extraction is running 🤔
MAke a great oil heater
for sure
Well if you circulate that water through a sand tank would that make a sand battery for heat
Keep on keepin' on!
cheers mate
What if you used and old water heater tank retro fitted with a rocket stove rather than its traditional heating element you could potentially heat your house water "off grid" and with today's power prices only going up at least reduce your power bill (assuming your water heater is outside and you kept the fire burning or lit it 20 mins in advance to use)
I like that thinking mate - I will keep an eye out for one - they are all copper so expensive - but I like it
@@ThinkingandTinkering here in Aus they are stainless Steel so are a bit more common to find on the side of the road. Being all copper would have many advantages though can't wait to see your results
Get an old discarded radiator from a car or from a I don't know anything of air conditioner and run only the air conditioner inside and hook a fan to it keep the heating part outside you put enough wood in it just to run it up to temperature and see how much heat you can generate inside your shop from a small load of wood doing that with a small fan
3:18 Did the welder interfered with car alarm system?
Al you need now is a circulating pump then you could plumb it into 2 rads to heat the workshop,
good idea!
I've been trying to plan how to heat water for a motorhome shower using a rocket stove - because they burn less wood, much more cleanly, for fast and high heat. I've been thinking of using thick-walled round stainless steel pipe to build the rocket stove, then coiling copper tubing around the outside of the chimney to heat water. Using round pipe for the stove means no right angles - making for easily coiling of coil tubing without kinking, and slightly less chance of wood getting jammed inside the feed tube.
I need to research whether stainless steel would cope with the hottest temperature a rocket stove produces (not melt/degrade the stainless), as well whether copper pipe reacts with stainless steel - and/or with the added heat. If a rocket stove CAN be made of stainless steel, not react and corrode away, but copper does react with stainless, maybe the copper tubing could be separated from the stainless chimney using something... fire clay maybe, sand, concrete - a thin layer so the heat still transfers quickly without the two metals reacting.
The next problem is how to adjust, or at least set at one level, the water temperature so it's not too cold, or scalding hot. (Because it won't be like a normal shower where you turn the cold tap on more to reduce the temperature of the hot tap... you have to maintain close to the same volume the entire shower - the same few litres recirculated over and over so it doesn't "flood."
The idea is you wash your dirtiest parts first and those first few litres of water get dumped on the ground or pumped into in a black water tank. Then you switch the taps/valves over to recirculate. The same few litres of water now go through the system over and over. The shower base has an insert with hundreds of holes. Between the shower base and that insert is say a bath towel as an easy and rough filter to catch loose hair, old bandaids, etc so they don't block the pump. That roughly-filtered water is then pumped from the shower sump back through the copper tubing wound around the rocket stove chimney to be reheated. Thus the same few litres of water get recirculated over and over providing a much longer shower than you normally could enjoy in a motorhome. At the end you switch the taps/valves back for a final rinse with clean soap-free water. e.g. To flush any soap residue from your hair.
So yeah... learning the "reactiveness" of metal and how to set the temp is holding me back. I don't want to have to rebuild the thing every 6 months because it was highly reactive so corroded away, lol.
I am always amazed at the difference between the US and Britton in the US you have to put down a deposit on the bottles nobody just throws away a bottle or you are out 10 dollars if you did your employees or a guy doing recycling would pick it up fast I have never seen a bottle anywhere in 40 years
they are all over the place here mate - but I have seen a lot of US vids using them in projects so they can't be that hard to get hold of over there
ESTOU PENSANDO EM COLOCAR UMA SERPENTINA DE AÇO INOX POR ONDE ENTRA E SAI A ÁGUA. E DEPOIS AREIA FINA DE PRAIA PARA PREENCHER O BOTIJÃO.
Did you put a pressure gauge in that I hope
Does that mean you could have a steam boiler? With a closed circuit turbine generator? If it took half an hour to get going? Then what would the fuel to energy production be?
yeah you could - it is really just a fire tube boiler - as for the energy production - no idea but I guess it could be calculated
@@ThinkingandTinkering as far I remember the pressure valve are usually set at 3 time less than maximum pressure. Your lucky that you can boiler test the thing with water. In most cases 110 psi for locomotive boilers. Usually it a tappers thread. As most boiler test go, are somewhere around 500-600psi. Mainly to check from weld stress and structural integrity. Not a bad thing in this case. Would love to see a steampunk build. Though I’d let a boiler maker check first. If your not certify? It how some of the modeller get around the regs. By making share it has the correct tickets. The thing is you now can attached an accumulator. Then your away. Supper heater coils in the flume. Marvellous! Not sure of the bamboo quad would accept the boiler. But would be awesome to see. Soo many options for modular design. Steltic (steam electric) fascinated me.
Love how “human” you are 🤣🤣🤣. Can’t let hot water go to waste, have a wash. I’ll do the same!
put a or out door barth good fun .
You could make a steam boiler for a steam engine pretty easy with it.
You can. I have a mono tube version on my TH-cam. Does 15 psi well. Working on improving it.
yep - add a pressure gauge and a blow off valve and you are there
Can you teach me how to do sand battery so that I can introduce here in Philippines?
👍👍👍
cheers mate
Very cool to see / watch. Ummm is it for sale?? DVD:)
lol -I am afraid not - I have a plan for it!
@@ThinkingandTinkering O! await the new "adjustments" to it lol Cheers! DVD:)
If you put a valve instead of a bottom pipe it will turn into a rocket samovar.
yep - I thought that lol
why is the feeder tube for the fuel at a righ not a 45 degree angle
t right angle
Priceless knowledge your passing on and exploring here with us ALL!
This could LITERALLY be saving lives soon as with the mass thermal heater idea exploration with this!
Think you deserve a knighthood! (Sir!)
Cheers from London 👍😎🏴🇬🇧🙏
Maybe a pressure washer?
nice! - have to be careful with that pressure though - still a blow off valve?
LOL I thought Robert would try to sit in the hot water
lololol - now that would make squeal lol
Nice work, but a fundamentally flawed design. You are cooling the combustion core and making it an incomplete burn and inefficient. You need to insulate the combustion core (burn tunnel and heat riser) so it gets as hot as possible, and put your heat exchanger in or around the exhaust from the riser.
if a person can find an old gas heater and run the exhaust threw it
That’s a big tea pot
Add sand then makes similar sand battery
Awesome, now fit a wood gas collector to it and you kill three birds with one stove I mean stone
the after burner really burns the wood gas mate - I am not sure there would be a lot to collect
@@ThinkingandTinkering fair enough, I just like the idea of a tool to be able to do as many things as possible, basically getting the most out of it in one go.
...all that to wash your face...
yeah - well - burn my face - lol - how I suffer for youtube - that water was hot mate lol
First!
awesome lol
😂