@@fleuriejeanpierre thanks man, that little sub is super impressive for sure, given the enclosure size, everyone that hears it has a pretty epic expression because you wouldn’t expect that much output out of it lol, I might mess around and do a similar set up but one size bigger in the back, we’ll see
To get a really good seal on those radiators and sub, you can find some adhesive back foam at the hardware store. Apply it to the back lip of the drivers and when you tighten it down, it's gonna be airtight. Because the adhesive is on one side only, it's easy to remove the drivers later on.
@@RajinderSinghBajwa-p8i the sound quality is amazing, and I get this question allot, I don’t think allot of people realize these 3 work as a set and it’s meant to work in small enclosures, I’ll have to add the factory specs and recommendations in the description, I will also make a separate video showing the system in action although it’s difficult to capture sound quality and demonstrate it on YT plus they don’t like copyright stuff and I don’t want to get hit with violations, but yes the setup sounds amazing, the overall sound quality is better then I expected and I used WinISD to tune this set up down to 30Hz 👍
@carsnstuff6022 Theoretical software tuning usually gets you in the ballpark, but if you actually want to know the tuning of the enclosure, you should get a device like the DATS. The Dayton Audio Test System. This is the only way to know for sure what the actual tuning is.
@@BIGZOE there’s one in the previous video but I’m working on doing something, it’s hard because TH-cam kills sound quality and there’s the whole copyright thing, I’m sure there is a way tho, if you know something I don’t let me know i would like to do a nice Demo because it sounds really nice
I'm really liking this setup. It should be great for a low to moderate volume sound system. Great up front bass capable of blending with the front stage. Are you running it on a seperate amp? You might be able to tap into the factory fusebox input and run an 8 gauge power cable off of it with a 40A fuse. That would give you potentially four hundred watts of power available. You can mount a little used Rockford Prime 500 under the seat. Have a flush mounted bass knob somewhere convenient. Yeah, that would be rocking!
So I’m running what I think is a really cool stealth set up lol, in the previous video I went over that basically it’s a Clarion Class D 5 Channel Amp and runs my entire sound system, the amp is mounted above the glove box and it’s wired into a separate fuse box I installed in the kick panel, the fuse box is designed not only to run the amp but also any other future accessories I decide to add such as lights radio etc, check it out if you’d like the best part the whole system is concealed so you’d never know it’s there 👍
@carsnstuff6022 Yeah, I watched that. It was a while ago and I forgot all about it! Lol. The lack of information on that model of amp is giving me sketchy vibes. I hope it's working for you. Do you have a bass knob? You can get a universal model that plugs inline with the rca cable. You can turn the channel five gain up and then use the base knob two attenuate the signal to whatever you feel like based on the song that playing.
I've got a Navigator which is pretty similar in size to your vehicle. Using an RTA and testing sub positions in relation to the drivers head position I found some interesting things. A sub in the rear of the vehicle extends very low, but rolls off above 45hz. (Due to a cancellation effect) My factory rear sub was an 8 inch in a sealed enclosure and this explains why it had a one note bass sound. It was all 40-45hz. A sub up front played well from 40 on up. It covered most of the musical spectrum. You just lacked the really low end. I ended up running a ported enclosure in the rear tuned to 27hz (although 30 is okay, too). It plays 50 and down. Then I ran a sealed enclosure with an 8" up front. It plays 50 to 80hz. Then my front door speakers cover 80hz and up. So a really large interior space vehicle is both a blessing and a curse. You can get really low, deep bass from a rear sub, but you'll miss out on the upper bass unless to go through all the trouble of adding a front sub/mid bass driver.
You had enough room up front for a bass reflex enclosure and are getting more lower end. I wish I had enough room to do that, but my center console is just not shaped for that.
@@JasonWW2000 that’s really interesting, my goal originally was just to utilize the factory subwoofer location and get more bass then factory, it’s funny you mention the rear, so turns out the Landcruiser model has subwoofer in the back, Lexus LX450 has it in the front, however both models have the provisions for both front and rear subs mounting points since it’s basically the same vehicle, I’ve seriously been considering mounting a 8” in the rear and just sourcing out the factory trim panels from a Landcruiser model, there is plenty of space back there for a box and amplifier, I think that would give me the best of both worlds, I’m super satisfied with the current set up and I love the way it sounds, unfortunately there’s a certain addiction to sound systems lol and it just never seems to be enough will see…
@carsnstuff6022 If you do go with an 8 inch in the rear, make sure it's a ported enclosure. It should sound more musical. I see you've got some extra subs. Play around and experiment with those to see what sounds best. Tune it low. 👍
@@JasonWW2000 yeah I probably will, there’s also the next size up of the same subwoofer and passive radiators I used in this video available and I think that would a cool set up, 5.5” up front and 8” in the rear 👍
Huh? That seems a waste. Dynamat, or CLD in general, is best used on thin, flexible materials like sheetmetal or plastic. This is a small mdf box. That sub is not going to be flexing the walls of that box.
Originally this was probably my main concern, since the enclosure is bolted to the floor now, I've gotten 0 rattles coming from the center console, I didn't show this in the videos much but I did trim allot of plastic inside the console to fit everything properly so the interior pieces of the console don't touch the actual enclosure.
so I thought about doing something like that however I'm not sure I could make them cheap enough to make it worth the time, I do think it's worth building and I'm glad I went this route because the sound is actually better then I expected, I'm not super tech savvy but I do want to post some plans with dimensions on how to build your own.
so that's the beauty of the set up, feel free to check out my other videos I explain the set up in more detail, that's only 1 subwoofer or "main driver" that driver powers 2 passive radiators (the side ones) it's the most ideal set up for a small enclosure, it works similar to one of those Bluetooth JBL speakers but in a larger scale, long story short the total output is amazing with lots of bass in a very compact set up, it's tunned to 30Hz btw.
@@JasonWW2000bingo!!! I was originally going to make a ported box until I realized how big the port needed to be in order to get the proper tuning also I risked creating unwanted resonance the radiators worked out way better 👍
Bro the sub you used is next level
... I've been watching alot of videos on these sub. And they are beasts
@@fleuriejeanpierre thanks man, that little sub is super impressive for sure, given the enclosure size, everyone that hears it has a pretty epic expression because you wouldn’t expect that much output out of it lol, I might mess around and do a similar set up but one size bigger in the back, we’ll see
Wow! So cool. Is there anything you can’t do?!
Haha I figure most of it out 😅
To get a really good seal on those radiators and sub, you can find some adhesive back foam at the hardware store. Apply it to the back lip of the drivers and when you tighten it down, it's gonna be airtight. Because the adhesive is on one side only, it's easy to remove the drivers later on.
Yessir so these speaker and radiators came with foam, after i installed the threaded inserts I was able to really crank them down for a perfect seal
impressive yet wonder about sound quality?
any shorts video?
@@RajinderSinghBajwa-p8i the sound quality is amazing, and I get this question allot, I don’t think allot of people realize these 3 work as a set and it’s meant to work in small enclosures, I’ll have to add the factory specs and recommendations in the description, I will also make a separate video showing the system in action although it’s difficult to capture sound quality and demonstrate it on YT plus they don’t like copyright stuff and I don’t want to get hit with violations, but yes the setup sounds amazing, the overall sound quality is better then I expected and I used WinISD to tune this set up down to 30Hz 👍
@carsnstuff6022 Theoretical software tuning usually gets you in the ballpark, but if you actually want to know the tuning of the enclosure, you should get a device like the DATS. The Dayton Audio Test System. This is the only way to know for sure what the actual tuning is.
No demo?!?!!?!
@@BIGZOE there’s one in the previous video but I’m working on doing something, it’s hard because TH-cam kills sound quality and there’s the whole copyright thing, I’m sure there is a way tho, if you know something I don’t let me know i would like to do a nice Demo because it sounds really nice
I'm really liking this setup. It should be great for a low to moderate volume sound system. Great up front bass capable of blending with the front stage.
Are you running it on a seperate amp?
You might be able to tap into the factory fusebox input and run an 8 gauge power cable off of it with a 40A fuse. That would give you potentially four hundred watts of power available. You can mount a little used Rockford Prime 500 under the seat. Have a flush mounted bass knob somewhere convenient.
Yeah, that would be rocking!
So I’m running what I think is a really cool stealth set up lol, in the previous video I went over that basically it’s a Clarion Class D 5 Channel Amp and runs my entire sound system, the amp is mounted above the glove box and it’s wired into a separate fuse box I installed in the kick panel, the fuse box is designed not only to run the amp but also any other future accessories I decide to add such as lights radio etc, check it out if you’d like the best part the whole system is concealed so you’d never know it’s there 👍
@carsnstuff6022 Yeah, I watched that. It was a while ago and I forgot all about it! Lol.
The lack of information on that model of amp is giving me sketchy vibes. I hope it's working for you.
Do you have a bass knob? You can get a universal model that plugs inline with the rca cable. You can turn the channel five gain up and then use the base knob two attenuate the signal to whatever you feel like based on the song that playing.
I've got a Navigator which is pretty similar in size to your vehicle. Using an RTA and testing sub positions in relation to the drivers head position I found some interesting things.
A sub in the rear of the vehicle extends very low, but rolls off above 45hz. (Due to a cancellation effect) My factory rear sub was an 8 inch in a sealed enclosure and this explains why it had a one note bass sound. It was all 40-45hz.
A sub up front played well from 40 on up. It covered most of the musical spectrum. You just lacked the really low end.
I ended up running a ported enclosure in the rear tuned to 27hz (although 30 is okay, too). It plays 50 and down.
Then I ran a sealed enclosure with an 8" up front. It plays 50 to 80hz.
Then my front door speakers cover 80hz and up.
So a really large interior space vehicle is both a blessing and a curse. You can get really low, deep bass from a rear sub, but you'll miss out on the upper bass unless to go through all the trouble of adding a front sub/mid bass driver.
You had enough room up front for a bass reflex enclosure and are getting more lower end. I wish I had enough room to do that, but my center console is just not shaped for that.
@@JasonWW2000 that’s really interesting, my goal originally was just to utilize the factory subwoofer location and get more bass then factory, it’s funny you mention the rear, so turns out the Landcruiser model has subwoofer in the back, Lexus LX450 has it in the front, however both models have the provisions for both front and rear subs mounting points since it’s basically the same vehicle, I’ve seriously been considering mounting a 8” in the rear and just sourcing out the factory trim panels from a Landcruiser model, there is plenty of space back there for a box and amplifier, I think that would give me the best of both worlds, I’m super satisfied with the current set up and I love the way it sounds, unfortunately there’s a certain addiction to sound systems lol and it just never seems to be enough will see…
@carsnstuff6022 If you do go with an 8 inch in the rear, make sure it's a ported enclosure. It should sound more musical.
I see you've got some extra subs. Play around and experiment with those to see what sounds best. Tune it low. 👍
@@JasonWW2000 yeah I probably will, there’s also the next size up of the same subwoofer and passive radiators I used in this video available and I think that would a cool set up, 5.5” up front and 8” in the rear 👍
put some sounddeadenig or dynomat for the inside of that box along with that padding will really make it bump
@@str8304 I put some but not enough and it has been on my mind
Huh? That seems a waste. Dynamat, or CLD in general, is best used on thin, flexible materials like sheetmetal or plastic.
This is a small mdf box. That sub is not going to be flexing the walls of that box.
You don’t get rattling from the subs on the plastic when you turn up the volume so high
Originally this was probably my main concern, since the enclosure is bolted to the floor now, I've gotten 0 rattles coming from the center console, I didn't show this in the videos much but I did trim allot of plastic inside the console to fit everything properly so the interior pieces of the console don't touch the actual enclosure.
Are you going to make any to sell
so I thought about doing something like that however I'm not sure I could make them cheap enough to make it worth the time, I do think it's worth building and I'm glad I went this route because the sound is actually better then I expected, I'm not super tech savvy but I do want to post some plans with dimensions on how to build your own.
Cool idea. Curious how it sounds though in person. That’s not a lot of air space for 3 speakers to share.
so that's the beauty of the set up, feel free to check out my other videos I explain the set up in more detail, that's only 1 subwoofer or "main driver" that driver powers 2 passive radiators (the side ones) it's the most ideal set up for a small enclosure, it works similar to one of those Bluetooth JBL speakers but in a larger scale, long story short the total output is amazing with lots of bass in a very compact set up, it's tunned to 30Hz btw.
It's basically one speaker in a ported enclosure. The radiators function similar to a port, but don't take up any of the interior airspace.
@@JasonWW2000bingo!!! I was originally going to make a ported box until I realized how big the port needed to be in order to get the proper tuning also I risked creating unwanted resonance the radiators worked out way better 👍
You obviously didn't watch the video
@@stevofla239That kind of comment is not helpful.