I’ve personally found these videos to be among the most useful I’ve found on TH-cam for learning the game. The short, focused format appeals to me. They are direct, useful, and the production values are first rate. Thanks for helping me learn.
Only discovered your videos in the last month, I have to say they are absolutely fantastic. Very informative and extremely useful. I’ve been playing in a pool league for 10 years and reached a decent standard but I find these videos brilliant as little refreshers on shot selection Or even a fresh take on how to play shots on the table. Keep up the great work!
Cheers much appreciated. I've been playing local league myself for about 10 years as well. Feel like I'm getting to a better standard but haven't really tested myself at a higher level yet.
Been watching these vids non stop and have subconciously gone from losing most games to winning most of them. I'm a glasses wearer so never had much confidence potting, but using your advice on cue ball position and tangent lines, the pots have started taking care of themselves. Cheers!
That's Golden. All the tables I play on don't run true...this makes total sense,I can't believe I didn't click onto it earlier...the science of pool I guess,thanks for the knowledge :)
this video give solution to the problem presented in the video "Pool Tutorial - Stop hitting the ball so hard! | Pool School ", because one of the reason we hitt the ball hard is table that isn't quite level. thank you
Another excellent video. Didn’t realise the drag runs out over a certain distance and then reverts to forward spin! Would you attempt a drag shot when the object ball is close to the middle pocket pocket but at an acute angle where the pocket is unlikely to accept a ball hit with the pace required to stun the cue ball. I ask because playing the shot plain ball very slowly against the nap can result in the cue ball drifting ever so slightly off line but enough for me to miss the pot (and my table (8ft) is very level probably more so than most pub tables!). And respect to you for messing with the level of your table - I would be paranoid that it would not revert back (notwithstanding foot adjusters and marking the positions!). Thanks!
Cheers. You could do, although if you're playing a ball to the middle you're not likely to be that far away from it. The shorter the distance, the harder it is to get the back spin to run out and the ball slow enough in time. If the table is level and you're aware of the nap, it is probably easier just to adjust your aim ever so slightly. Yeah I was a little worried about making my table un-level. Just adjusted one foot by a set amount and then back again so wasn't too bad though.
Cheers! Interesting that it looks like the “transition” phase of the drag shot that really slows it down! Just an idea for another tutorial: getting position off an object ball that is right over the pocket and has to be potted over distance. I have started to lose frames simply because I lack consistent control to pot the final colour and get onto the black: frustrating and embarrassing!! I suspect a common weakness amongst amateur players!
Yes, definitely something worth covering, I'll add it to my list. You're right, very common to see people mess up position when the ball is in the jaws.
Hello, I'm french and a beginner at pool. I found your channel a little while ago. You're doing a fantastic job: the 3D animation, good explaining, very slow motion part. If at any time, you're interested in developing your channel in French, I would be happy to help (by adding subtitles or even voice-overs). Feel free to get in touch.
Thank you for your comments and that's really generous of you. I think there are options to allow the public to submit foreign language captions to a video, so I'll look into how that works and let you know. Voice overs might be worth exploring as well so I'll definitely have a think about that.
If you are playing a long shot across the table to cut in a colour that is frozen to the rail, would you use this or a plain ball hit in order to maximise the pot %?
It's certainly an option for that shot because it slows down the cue ball and then gives the colour more chance of dropping down the line. Depends on what I'm trying to do position wise afterwards and whether you're talking about on a straight or un-level table though.
@@PoolSchool I am wondering which is easier in terms of pure potting. Say it is the 8 ball so position doesn't matter and the table is level and a half ball hit across the table. Would you rather cue a ball slightly firmer with drag but rely on hitting the white perfectly in the centre to avoid swerve, or plain ball where you're hitting it more softly but you don't have to worry about the cueing aspect as much (at least in my eyes)
@@dnbmania For me I would definitely say the latter (although that's just personal choice). If you know the table is true then center ball striking at a soft pace should always give you the best chance of hitting the ball exactly where you intend.
Should describe the feel of the shot and explain how to execute the shot a little, although all come down to practice and feel, a heads up on how to execute it would be helpful.
I'm a very slow cue ball player, it's hugely noticeable for us slow players compared to fast players, hugely frustrating when a table is off, expecially for important pots or soft snooker shots
Some great videos there. Looking for an end game tactics video when someone owns the pocket and the game looks lost. Whats the plan ? Keep up the good work. Dave.
Any tips on how to crap a cue probably as I am struggling craping a cue light crip as my cue aiming is bad wen I try and pot a ball would be better holding cue hard crip be better as I got a cue 17oz
Yeah, did make me laugh when I read that! Afraid I can't help with your craping but I'll see what I can do for your grip! A couple of other people have asked about it so I'll make a video as it's easier to demonstrate than explain. But generally, you want the grip to be light so you get a fluid movement in the back arm and wrist. If you grip a cue hard then you tend to tense up and it's not good for your cue action.
Thanks. I don't play blackball so don't play the skill shot but understand the principles behind it. It depends how straight things are lined up and how close the balls are together and how close to the pocket. You have two options really. You can either play the cue ball with lots of screw back which will impart a bit of forward momentum on the first ball, hopefully causing it to follow in after the second ball. The other option is to play with top spin so that the white bounce back a touch and then pushes forward again shunting the second ball into the pocket. You'd need to be careful with that option though as you could end up potting the white as well!
Paul Slater Aiming the first ball to the dead centre of the second ball is the key, and making sure there’s at least 6 inches between them. Adding spin to the cue ball doesn’t really make a difference in my experience
DarkTherapy is absolutely right, getting the two balls to connect dead center is essential or the first ball will move off on the tangent line instead of forward to the pocket. I have definitely seen the screw back help propel the first ball further forward, I'm not talking loads of top spin, it's very minimal, but enough to help. I know spin transference is a subject of much debate, but I personally feel it can help a little.
@@darktherapy It would depend how close the two object balls are to each other whether the cue ball spin helps at all. If they're relatively close the cueball's backspin will aid the first ball to begin rotating forward. If they're far apart then the the first colour is already rolling at it's maximum rate
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I’ve personally found these videos to be among the most useful I’ve found on TH-cam for learning the game.
The short, focused format appeals to me. They are direct, useful, and the production values are first rate.
Thanks for helping me learn.
Only discovered your videos in the last month, I have to say they are absolutely fantastic. Very informative and extremely useful. I’ve been playing in a pool league for 10 years and reached a decent standard but I find these videos brilliant as little refreshers on shot selection Or even a fresh take on how to play shots on the table. Keep up the great work!
Cheers much appreciated. I've been playing local league myself for about 10 years as well. Feel like I'm getting to a better standard but haven't really tested myself at a higher level yet.
Been watching these vids non stop and have subconciously gone from losing most games to winning most of them. I'm a glasses wearer so never had much confidence potting, but using your advice on cue ball position and tangent lines, the pots have started taking care of themselves. Cheers!
That's Golden. All the tables I play on don't run true...this makes total sense,I can't believe I didn't click onto it earlier...the science of pool I guess,thanks for the knowledge :)
Drag shots are veru handy for position play too. Like long distance slow-roll shots where you need to minimize cue ball movement after contact.
Great explanation and video!
This is an excellent explanation, great video!
Cheers
Top production quality on this channel
cheers
this video give solution to the problem presented in the video "Pool Tutorial - Stop hitting the ball so hard! | Pool School
", because one of the reason we hitt the ball hard is table that isn't quite level.
thank you
Yes you're absolutely right.
Great video again. I managed to execute one of these last week. Looked great and worked
Nice tip, my local place the baize is so worn out the ball just runs for weeks
Another excellent tip, sir!
Really good video. Just last night I played a match on a table that was way off, and had to use this sort of shot. Merry Christmas.
cheers, you too.
Our local has an uneven table but mainly only on sides of the table. So we can't play gentle shots at all it's pretty frustrating.
Thanks!
Wow! That is incredibly generous of you, thank you so much 🙏
Another excellent video. Didn’t realise the drag runs out over a certain distance and then reverts to forward spin! Would you attempt a drag shot when the object ball is close to the middle pocket pocket but at an acute angle where the pocket is unlikely to accept a ball hit with the pace required to stun the cue ball. I ask because playing the shot plain ball very slowly against the nap can result in the cue ball drifting ever so slightly off line but enough for me to miss the pot (and my table (8ft) is very level probably more so than most pub tables!). And respect to you for messing with the level of your table - I would be paranoid that it would not revert back (notwithstanding foot adjusters and marking the positions!). Thanks!
Cheers. You could do, although if you're playing a ball to the middle you're not likely to be that far away from it. The shorter the distance, the harder it is to get the back spin to run out and the ball slow enough in time. If the table is level and you're aware of the nap, it is probably easier just to adjust your aim ever so slightly. Yeah I was a little worried about making my table un-level. Just adjusted one foot by a set amount and then back again so wasn't too bad though.
Cheers! Interesting that it looks like the “transition” phase of the drag shot that really slows it down!
Just an idea for another tutorial: getting position off an object ball that is right over the pocket and has to be potted over distance. I have started to lose frames simply because I lack consistent control to pot the final colour and get onto the black: frustrating and embarrassing!! I suspect a common weakness amongst amateur players!
Yes, definitely something worth covering, I'll add it to my list. You're right, very common to see people mess up position when the ball is in the jaws.
Hello,
I'm french and a beginner at pool. I found your channel a little while ago.
You're doing a fantastic job: the 3D animation, good explaining, very slow motion part. If at any time, you're interested in developing your channel in French, I would be happy to help (by adding subtitles or even voice-overs). Feel free to get in touch.
Thank you for your comments and that's really generous of you. I think there are options to allow the public to submit foreign language captions to a video, so I'll look into how that works and let you know. Voice overs might be worth exploring as well so I'll definitely have a think about that.
Would like to see some videos where more exhibitions shots are included or the main feature just for some fun!
If you are playing a long shot across the table to cut in a colour that is frozen to the rail, would you use this or a plain ball hit in order to maximise the pot %?
It's certainly an option for that shot because it slows down the cue ball and then gives the colour more chance of dropping down the line. Depends on what I'm trying to do position wise afterwards and whether you're talking about on a straight or un-level table though.
@@PoolSchool I am wondering which is easier in terms of pure potting. Say it is the 8 ball so position doesn't matter and the table is level and a half ball hit across the table. Would you rather cue a ball slightly firmer with drag but rely on hitting the white perfectly in the centre to avoid swerve, or plain ball where you're hitting it more softly but you don't have to worry about the cueing aspect as much (at least in my eyes)
@@dnbmania For me I would definitely say the latter (although that's just personal choice). If you know the table is true then center ball striking at a soft pace should always give you the best chance of hitting the ball exactly where you intend.
Should describe the feel of the shot and explain how to execute the shot a little, although all come down to practice and feel, a heads up on how to execute it would be helpful.
I'm a very slow cue ball player, it's hugely noticeable for us slow players compared to fast players, hugely frustrating when a table is off, expecially for important pots or soft snooker shots
Awesome.. Thank you
Some great videos there. Looking for an end game tactics video when someone owns the pocket and the game looks lost. Whats the plan ? Keep up the good work. Dave.
Not many options but to snooker them
I'm in a local league as well would be awesome to give you a match sometime. I'm in the Bedford area
Any tips on how to crap a cue probably as I am struggling craping a cue light crip as my cue aiming is bad wen I try and pot a ball would be better holding cue hard crip be better as I got a cue 17oz
andrew painter when you say your struggling craping a cue do you mean your struggling to grip a cue?
Yes sorry on the phone doing auto shit spelling
Yeah, did make me laugh when I read that! Afraid I can't help with your craping but I'll see what I can do for your grip! A couple of other people have asked about it so I'll make a video as it's easier to demonstrate than explain. But generally, you want the grip to be light so you get a fluid movement in the back arm and wrist. If you grip a cue hard then you tend to tense up and it's not good for your cue action.
That what my problem is in my cue action wen I hold it light grip will try hard grip today
Nice video. Could you do a video on skill shots maybe? Planting 1 ball on to another and making them both drop is a shot I struggle with
Thanks. I don't play blackball so don't play the skill shot but understand the principles behind it. It depends how straight things are lined up and how close the balls are together and how close to the pocket. You have two options really. You can either play the cue ball with lots of screw back which will impart a bit of forward momentum on the first ball, hopefully causing it to follow in after the second ball. The other option is to play with top spin so that the white bounce back a touch and then pushes forward again shunting the second ball into the pocket. You'd need to be careful with that option though as you could end up potting the white as well!
Paul Slater Aiming the first ball to the dead centre of the second ball is the key, and making sure there’s at least 6 inches between them. Adding spin to the cue ball doesn’t really make a difference in my experience
DarkTherapy is absolutely right, getting the two balls to connect dead center is essential or the first ball will move off on the tangent line instead of forward to the pocket. I have definitely seen the screw back help propel the first ball further forward, I'm not talking loads of top spin, it's very minimal, but enough to help. I know spin transference is a subject of much debate, but I personally feel it can help a little.
@@darktherapy It would depend how close the two object balls are to each other whether the cue ball spin helps at all. If they're relatively close the cueball's backspin will aid the first ball to begin rotating forward. If they're far apart then the the first colour is already rolling at it's maximum rate
Wondering how much was your pool table
It was about £1100
or we can play the Force follow Shot 👌