The creativity of this is great. I might add a bit of thread lock to the bolt that goes thru the end caps- just in case to prevent loosening. Very good video!
Hey Wes. Great vid and inspriration to get out and build something useful for the hobby. Love the magnetic coil pickup. Lots better than alligator clips.
Thanks Chris. Been using this build on a variety of different configurations and love it. The small size makes it a great addition to my Ham Backpack. Thanks for watching.
That’s great! This coil has so many uses. As for the pick up, I use a magnet that has metal covering the magnet area. I attached a wire to the loop on the magnet and tested the connection with a multimeter. Good luck and feel free to message me with any other questions. 👍
This is a great video. But, I think you left out an important part. How did you connect the magnet to the wire. Can you solder to magnets? Do they have to be plated?
Sorry you are right with that detail. I used a small machine screw, washers and nut. The magnet is plated and tested with zero resistance. It might be possible to solder to the metal around the magnet 🤷🏼♂️
My first couple of coils I did that. Problem was it had a very small contact area and would create a hot spot (I used a thermal image camera). The updated magnet has tape with a slit in it to narrow the contact area.
I’m new at coil building and have watched a couple of videos, I like what you have here but have one question, you’re attaching the coil to both the top and bottom bolts? A couple of the videos I’ve watched only attach it at one side and use the alligator clip (or in your case magnet) to complete the connection at the other end of the coil. Just wanting to make sure I do this right the first time before the glue sets 😉 Thanks for a great video! 73’s KB9HUO
It works either way but I prefer to connect top and bottom. The Rf will take the path of least resistance so when top and bottom are connected the Rf will pass through the wire/magnet. Hope this answers your question and have fun building your own.
@@MrMudsHamRadioTime The zinc-plating for skin-effect conduction provides moderately "good" conductivity (1.69×10^7 S/m at 20 °C), but this is offset by the mild steel core which is highly ferromagnetic; i.e., hysteresis loss. A better choice would be nickel-plated stainless steel wire. Nickel is close to zinc in conductivity, and most stainless steel wire is not ferromagnetic.
I was wrong about nickel plating. Nickel is similar to zinc in electrical conductivity, but it's extremely ferromagnetic. So, if you want to stay with some type of steel wire that's plated with zinc, use stainless steel wire with zinc plating; although, it may be difficult to source. Silver-plated stainless steel wire may be a good alternative. A quick Google search shows it's widely available and used to make jewelry. Some of the wire I found is labeled silver-colored stainless steel, but most appears to be truly silver-plated.
The magnetic pick up is genius!
Thanks so much. It was one of those I wonder if it would work moments. Working on a spin off of the magnet hack right now. Stay tuned.
The creativity of this is great. I might add a bit of thread lock to the bolt that goes thru the end caps- just in case to prevent loosening. Very good video!
Thanks for the TIP and watching!
Flexible grommet, genius.
Works like a charm. Lego also works. Thanks for your support.
Hey Wes. Great vid and inspriration to get out and build something useful for the hobby. Love the magnetic coil pickup. Lots better than alligator clips.
It’s so fun to enjoy what you build. Have fun building!
Great work mate
Thanks Chris. Been using this build on a variety of different configurations and love it. The small size makes it a great addition to my Ham Backpack. Thanks for watching.
Awesome! Low calorie coil. :) W7RTA
Great video Wes. I’ll be building one soon
Very cool to see how it's made!
That seals the deal, I'm selling my Amana range and buying a KitchenAid. I wonder if buying a microwave instead would expedite the process!
It would be helpful if you specified the coil calculator you used and any pointers on its use.
I added it to the description. Its a two part calculation and is explained in the how to.
I was wishing for a Maria Carey singalong!
Just ordered Lego 1x10 great recommendation. Gonna get to this soon. 73
Let me know how it turns out.
This is a great idea! Thanks for putting out this video.
Would .040 safety wire work?
Absolutely if it’s steel as you need the magnet to stick. Thanks for the question and have fun building and using yours. 🤙🏻
Great video! I am a new ham and would love to give this a try. Do you happen to have a parts list you could share?
I will add a list of materials in the description. Thanks for watching
Thank you!@@MrMudsHamRadioTime
Just added a parts list. 👍
I think I'm gonna make me one!!
How did you make the pickup?
That’s great! This coil has so many uses. As for the pick up, I use a magnet that has metal covering the magnet area. I attached a wire to the loop on the magnet and tested the connection with a multimeter. Good luck and feel free to message me with any other questions. 👍
This is a great video. But, I think you left out an important part. How did you connect the magnet to the wire. Can you solder to magnets? Do they have to be plated?
Sorry you are right with that detail. I used a small machine screw, washers and nut. The magnet is plated and tested with zero resistance. It might be possible to solder to the metal around the magnet 🤷🏼♂️
Maybe you should try an alligator clip instead of the magnet to get a narrower contact patch and better SWR.
My first couple of coils I did that. Problem was it had a very small contact area and would create a hot spot (I used a thermal image camera). The updated magnet has tape with a slit in it to narrow the contact area.
I’m new at coil building and have watched a couple of videos, I like what you have here but have one question, you’re attaching the coil to both the top and bottom bolts? A couple of the videos I’ve watched only attach it at one side and use the alligator clip (or in your case magnet) to complete the connection at the other end of the coil. Just wanting to make sure I do this right the first time before the glue sets 😉
Thanks for a great video!
73’s KB9HUO
It works either way but I prefer to connect top and bottom. The Rf will take the path of least resistance so when top and bottom are connected the Rf will pass through the wire/magnet. Hope this answers your question and have fun building your own.
ok but what are the spacers
I do believe I have a link for them in the description. My next build I’m going to try Lego 1x16 flat bricks as spacers.
Can I use the yellow drill vs the red drill?
Zinc plated steel wire for building an inductor? More like building a wire wound resistor than an inductor.
Interesting 🧐. Please send me a link for reference.
@@MrMudsHamRadioTime The zinc-plating for skin-effect conduction provides moderately "good" conductivity (1.69×10^7 S/m at 20 °C), but this is offset by the mild steel core which is highly ferromagnetic; i.e., hysteresis loss. A better choice would be nickel-plated stainless steel wire. Nickel is close to zinc in conductivity, and most stainless steel wire is not ferromagnetic.
I was wrong about nickel plating. Nickel is similar to zinc in electrical conductivity, but it's extremely ferromagnetic. So, if you want to stay with some type of steel wire that's plated with zinc, use stainless steel wire with zinc plating; although, it may be difficult to source.
Silver-plated stainless steel wire may be a good alternative. A quick Google search shows it's widely available and used to make jewelry. Some of the wire I found is labeled silver-colored stainless steel, but most appears to be truly silver-plated.
It would be helpful if you specified the coil calculator and any pointers on its use.