🛠 Been teching for around 15yrs, and I happily sat and watched this entire video. ⚙ This information is a goldmine for anyone starting to get their airsoft knuckles greasy! Even if experienced, this is still valuable; whether it's just refreshing yourself, or being open to other methods/perspectives, you can always learn! There's unfortunately allot of misinformation/misinterpreted info out there... However within this build video's context, this is proven, unbiased, and un-skewed information. (techniques do change with the times as referenced in this video) Regardless, currently (and likely for quite some time), this serves as a fantastic, up to date, detailed walk-through! - Bravo Sir 👏
@@willsahraoui3758 Sir, this comment and the fact that you and others have devoted 3hours of your precious time to this video has made every tedious second spent filming/editing it worth it. When I attempt to make these kinds of videos, I get absorbed by the editing process and often question if the effort will bring anyone value. I’m glad to have earned your vouch!
Great video. Decent voice over, decent music. I like you sharing your thoughts on all the small things wrong that you have to fix during a workjob. The moment i saw those small aluminium barrel clamps, my first thought was "that's gonna strip" lol. VFC has such amazing production quality, yet stuff like this happens.
This is such a great educational video man, i thank you in the name of the whole airsoft community! Just 2 things to add to this already great guide: 1. X-orings are pointless, they are supposed to work as a "fake double o-ring" but it doesnt work at the end, ill try to explain my thoughts and be understandable... the X has 2 lips, but due to tolerances (some required, some because airsoft tolerances suck) when the piston is released the friction between the x-ring and the cylinder cause the X-ring to bend backwards and compress agaisnt the piston head (like a cone shape) so the "back lip" is not touching the cylinder at all, to avoid this effect, fps make this orings really tough, so, you lose the hability to expand and properly seal, making the design just a pointless mimick. Thats why you only see this type of X-orings in neumatic system that require this type of vacum effect, some suspension systems use this vacuum effect and o-ring behaviour to help with rebound control, they are o-rings placed inside sockets, not moving freely, but in airsoft we dont want that effect, we want the o-ring to expand and seal and retract and let air go in again without resistance. 2. Like paragon armory did, you overcomplicated a little bit tappet plate timing, the short explanation is that a gun needs to fully open and fully close the nozzle before the piston cycle is finished so the magazine can load a round in the chamber for every cycle. I dont tend to trim or modify the fin, i prefer cutting it as shorter as i can but being sure that the nozzle can fully open anyway, long fin and delayer chips are not good friends with short stroking and precock in my experience... some people say that the tappet plate fin helps to control the tappet plate movement and things like that, but... it happens so fast that i believe any benefit from this is completly insignificant
Just had a customer bring me this exact gun model for service and it had almost the exact same issue with the front end except the screws were already stripped. I shimmed the barrel similar to the way you did, but I ended up rethreading the holes far a slighly larger screw and machined the screw heads to fit and slide like butter under the handguard.
Nice! It's a very good example that you don't just throw parts into a airsft gun! Very detailed! I had the same problem with the T238 and i ended up using a Perun instead of Leviathan because for some reason doesn't act like this. Moneywise it was better than to buy a new motor like Solink v5.
@@6mmsupersoldier It’s funny you say that! Unfortunately, the customer and I agreed to not delay the build. And sadly, shortly after finishing the build and shipping it out, I discovered that Evike had restocked them 💀
Awesome vid! One thing I'll aways have doubt about is short stroke. Saw a video of a tech that said that you have to aways SS from the release, but then, if you do and use a high speed delayer (like the one you're using), the tappet will only fully go forward AFTER the piston is released... well, its something that bother my mind when I think of short stroking my guns hahaha Another thing I learnt is that I'll have to wait a LONG time before buying a T238 Brushless for my other guns. I'm so afraid of having a bad unit like this
@anttechairsoft nice!! Sadly im from Brazil and here its hard to get anything other than the T238 (they're already hard and expensive to get, but less than the others)
Don’t get me wrong your information is top tier but the video should be labeled “Systematic Approach to Building GBB” not “AEG”. Was looking forward to watching an AEG breakdown with this much content as I am building my first AEG and this slightly disappointed me
I did not but I will in a bit as soon as I have time. I’m more curious about inside the gearbox more than anything. Been watching a lot of videos on shimming, AOE, short stroking, etc. I see you have some detailed gearbox stuff in this video so I’ll get to watching it in a few. Sorry don’t mean to annoy you but I have a question. I have a VFC MP5 I bought SHS 13:1 gears, a piston and chamber kit from an airsoft guy on eBay that sells the gears with 14 teeth rack piston etc, I also bought SHS high torque motor, and gate titan 2 ETU. Is there any tips you recommend? I’m afraid to install the 13:1 gears and get the AOE correct with spacers but I’m afraid that there is a possibility that the gear will spin too quick and eat a piston tooth. Is there any way to gauge it check properly that everything will cycle properly? I also need this gun to clear 380fps or less on a .20g bb for my local airsoft field. I think I may need a m100 spring or maybe m95 or 105. Was just gonna buy a few springs and test them to get as close to 380 as possible
I know if I get the gun to cycle with the stock spring properly but it shoots too hard then I need to drop a softer spring in it but then there is a possibility that it won’t return the piston fast enough the next time I fire it which will then in return lead to stripping the gear rack correct?
🛠 Been teching for around 15yrs, and I happily sat and watched this entire video. ⚙
This information is a goldmine for anyone starting to get their airsoft knuckles greasy!
Even if experienced, this is still valuable; whether it's just refreshing yourself, or being open to other methods/perspectives, you can always learn!
There's unfortunately allot of misinformation/misinterpreted info out there...
However within this build video's context, this is proven, unbiased, and un-skewed information. (techniques do change with the times as referenced in this video)
Regardless, currently (and likely for quite some time), this serves as a fantastic, up to date, detailed walk-through!
- Bravo Sir 👏
@@willsahraoui3758 Sir, this comment and the fact that you and others have devoted 3hours of your precious time to this video has made every tedious second spent filming/editing it worth it. When I attempt to make these kinds of videos, I get absorbed by the editing process and often question if the effort will bring anyone value. I’m glad to have earned your vouch!
intro 0:00
start of video 0:33
assumption 1 2:02
assumption 2 2:30
assumption 3 3:11
assumption 4 4:21
trust 1 4:55
trust 2 6:08
disassembly/inspection 7:15
keep/toss 8:20
foundation/prep 8:54
diagnosing and fixing barrel wobble 10:00
handguard fitment 17:18
barrel alightment/straightness 21:10
mcx spring guide issue/fix 24:22
THE LIST 27:01
receiver and gearbox fitment tips 27:49
selector component fitment 32:13
reasons for going through the process 35:37
shell talk 37:30
build specific mods 39:51
trigger talk 40:30
quick tappet tips 44:27
quick bearing/bushing tips 44:56
isolated part clearance check 45:25
piston ride 45:40
tappet ride 46:40
anti reversal latch height 4:18
gears 49:45
cylinder and shell fitment 50:00
cylinder head in shell fitment 54:05
motor grip to bevel bearing clearance 59:40
reasons for checking everything 1:00:41
hopup and fitment 1:03:10
installing bearings 1:06:00
motor grub screw /w loctite 1:09:03
prepped parts install and talk 1:09:30
motor tower fitment talk 1:10:15
shell to grip fitment 1:13:58
fitment of shell + grip + reviver troubleshooting 1:16:21
gear set talk 1:20:56
motor + gear shimming 1:25:07
importance of shimming /w mosfet 1:29:05
WHITEBOARD OF TRUTH motor to gear demonstration 1:30:57
recap of motor + gears 1:46:21
piston prep 1:48:42
piston talk 1:51:30
sector gear relationships 1:58:39
piston sector shimming 2:00:43
compression and feeding 2:03:30
nozzle fitment prep, cylinder head 2:07:23
nozzle fitment prep, tappet 2:11:23
nozzle fitment prep, hopup 2:12:04
tappet plate and sector shimming 2:15:35
tappet plate sector cam clearence 2:18:36
tappet plate and nozzel length 2:21:04
tappet plate talk 2:24:23
bbs feeding and what the tappet plate and spring does 2:28:39
part greasing and install 2:35:54
first test 2:41:14
motor clicking diagnosis 2:44:24
discussion about fine tuning 2:45:37
mag fitment 2:47:50
battery space 2:49:15
what "went wrong" and final thoughts 2:54:33
Great video. Decent voice over, decent music. I like you sharing your thoughts on all the small things wrong that you have to fix during a workjob. The moment i saw those small aluminium barrel clamps, my first thought was "that's gonna strip" lol. VFC has such amazing production quality, yet stuff like this happens.
@PerfectAirsoft Thanks for the kudos! I just took at a peak at your channel and I think you’re doing great job explaining tech matters as well!
The amount of work you put into your builds is insane, very cool to see.
Thanks! I do try to be thorough with my builds, and I'm glad it's showing in the video.
This is an amazing video. Thank you for taking the time to put this together it’s very comprehensive!
You’re welcome! Glad you enjoyed it.
This is such a great educational video man, i thank you in the name of the whole airsoft community!
Just 2 things to add to this already great guide:
1. X-orings are pointless, they are supposed to work as a "fake double o-ring" but it doesnt work at the end, ill try to explain my thoughts and be understandable... the X has 2 lips, but due to tolerances (some required, some because airsoft tolerances suck) when the piston is released the friction between the x-ring and the cylinder cause the X-ring to bend backwards and compress agaisnt the piston head (like a cone shape) so the "back lip" is not touching the cylinder at all, to avoid this effect, fps make this orings really tough, so, you lose the hability to expand and properly seal, making the design just a pointless mimick.
Thats why you only see this type of X-orings in neumatic system that require this type of vacum effect, some suspension systems use this vacuum effect and o-ring behaviour to help with rebound control, they are o-rings placed inside sockets, not moving freely, but in airsoft we dont want that effect, we want the o-ring to expand and seal and retract and let air go in again without resistance.
2. Like paragon armory did, you overcomplicated a little bit tappet plate timing, the short explanation is that a gun needs to fully open and fully close the nozzle before the piston cycle is finished so the magazine can load a round in the chamber for every cycle.
I dont tend to trim or modify the fin, i prefer cutting it as shorter as i can but being sure that the nozzle can fully open anyway, long fin and delayer chips are not good friends with short stroking and precock in my experience... some people say that the tappet plate fin helps to control the tappet plate movement and things like that, but... it happens so fast that i believe any benefit from this is completly insignificant
Just had a customer bring me this exact gun model for service and it had almost the exact same issue with the front end except the screws were already stripped. I shimmed the barrel similar to the way you did, but I ended up rethreading the holes far a slighly larger screw and machined the screw heads to fit and slide like butter under the handguard.
@@shaun536 That’s a brilliant approach! I’m sure the larger diameter screws also assisted in preventing wobble too!
@anttechairsoft It locked it all down super tight.
Working as a tech, my biggest fear is always a Bag of Parts.
Every time the customer says "it's all there", it's not. Every bloody time.
@@meanmarine24 Amen 🙏🏻
Excellent video. That barrel wobble was absurd.Ridiculous the manufacturer was ok with that leaving the factory.
Nice! It's a very good example that you don't just throw parts into a airsft gun! Very detailed! I had the same problem with the T238 and i ended up using a Perun instead of Leviathan because for some reason doesn't act like this. Moneywise it was better than to buy a new motor like Solink v5.
8:24 Redwolf has the Laylax stabilizers.
@@6mmsupersoldier It’s funny you say that! Unfortunately, the customer and I agreed to not delay the build. And sadly, shortly after finishing the build and shipping it out, I discovered that Evike had restocked them 💀
@@anttechairsoft I got one from Redwolf for less than half of what I paid for my first one from Evike. They're pricey for what they are.
Amazing vid!
Just got an mcx and wondered if you can sell or shere the 3d shims you made?
@@danielxd145 Once I refine the design, I will have it listed on my website!
Awesome vid! One thing I'll aways have doubt about is short stroke. Saw a video of a tech that said that you have to aways SS from the release, but then, if you do and use a high speed delayer (like the one you're using), the tappet will only fully go forward AFTER the piston is released... well, its something that bother my mind when I think of short stroking my guns hahaha
Another thing I learnt is that I'll have to wait a LONG time before buying a T238 Brushless for my other guns. I'm so afraid of having a bad unit like this
@@felipeduarte1997 I have moved on from T238s officially. I’m all about the Solink V5s and Paragon Armory Brushless motors right now.
@anttechairsoft nice!! Sadly im from Brazil and here its hard to get anything other than the T238 (they're already hard and expensive to get, but less than the others)
My house is built on sand and it’s still standing 6 years on
subtitles please
Don’t get me wrong your information is top tier but the video should be labeled “Systematic Approach to Building GBB” not “AEG”. Was looking forward to watching an AEG breakdown with this much content as I am building my first AEG and this slightly disappointed me
@@brandonroopnarine898 I’m honestly very confused 🤔 Did you watch the whole video?
I did not but I will in a bit as soon as I have time. I’m more curious about inside the gearbox more than anything. Been watching a lot of videos on shimming, AOE, short stroking, etc. I see you have some detailed gearbox stuff in this video so I’ll get to watching it in a few. Sorry don’t mean to annoy you but I have a question. I have a VFC MP5 I bought SHS 13:1 gears, a piston and chamber kit from an airsoft guy on eBay that sells the gears with 14 teeth rack piston etc, I also bought SHS high torque motor, and gate titan 2 ETU. Is there any tips you recommend? I’m afraid to install the 13:1 gears and get the AOE correct with spacers but I’m afraid that there is a possibility that the gear will spin too quick and eat a piston tooth. Is there any way to gauge it check properly that everything will cycle properly? I also need this gun to clear 380fps or less on a .20g bb for my local airsoft field. I think I may need a m100 spring or maybe m95 or 105. Was just gonna buy a few springs and test them to get as close to 380 as possible
I know if I get the gun to cycle with the stock spring properly but it shoots too hard then I need to drop a softer spring in it but then there is a possibility that it won’t return the piston fast enough the next time I fire it which will then in return lead to stripping the gear rack correct?