Thank you for all the videos. I am building my first bike right now. Trifox X18. Your videos have given me the confidence to give it a go. I also follow your chain wax protocol. Thank you again for all the videos and educating us newbies.
Im a new sub, old 65 trying to be a racer again. lol...When i was in my early 30's , i owned a bicycle shop for about 6 years to help support my racing habit, I must say, you are a mechanic indeed. Your videos are clear, concise and your expertise in the "new stuff" is great. I run a Team SC 2004 Merckx, super record and a 2004 Litespeed Tachyon super record and putting on about 800 miles this month Jan 2-31 and I am very interested in getting a carbon frame and maybe getting the dura ace for my new rig. Watching this vid is telling me more that i need to get one....
@@stevenleffanue Your group reminds me of my group here in Carson City NV area... Most of my buds have carbon, but for the most part i can keep up and lead still. They say if i get a carbon setup, i will be a champion again, hahaha
Great review, love my trifox winter bike. Amused by the aero loss by exposed handle bar cabling though, people do worry about some ridiculous stuff. My summer bike is a Bianchi Oltre XR4 with vision metron integrated stem/handlebar and some of my front cabling is exposed, trust me when I say, full integrated headset cabling makes zero difference and will also make any jobs you do on this part of the bike take 10x longer....Just a quick tip on trifox, if you have difficulty out of the box with rear gear indexing not quite right, check the hanger alignment, quick tweak sorted my X8 build out nicely. Also, dont expect too much from them fitted to turbo trainers, my only criticism is the lack of metal dropout lugs. When you fit to a turbo the carbon drop outs have a habit of slipping out of the metal axle and skewers...unless you clamp them so tight it actually messes up your gear indexing 🙄😂👍👌
Mine do but are really only concerned with selling you a whole bike nowadays and wouldn't go anywhere near at OEM frameset such as this - part snobbery, part self preservation? Personally speaking ,I don't want to see anyone riding the same bike as me; there HAS to eb something to differenciate my ride from everyone elses. Imagine shelling out a load of money on a Canyon, Orbea etc and seeing a few of them on your group ride?
very interesting the content of the video. The technology that these new bikes use is amazing. I have a steel bike from the sixties ... and that bike makes me happy every day! .. thanks for sharing
Having worked in engineering my whole life (now retired) it is NOT a good idea to use silicon lubricants on ANY metal to metal contact points as it promotes galling. Plastic or rubber it's great .
Just when I was starting to believe I could manage to build a bike from frame up, you're attention to detail and and quality of this build is making me think mine not end up coming out as nice as I hope haha
Excellent video as always. Another option for those of us on a tighter budget. I was wondering though, what happened to the R12? I haven't seen a longer-term review.
Just to give an update/tip: My solution to the slipping seatpost, was buying a giant tcr seatpost clamp. You have to file it down a bit to make it fit. But it provides much more clamping area. Also removing all the glossy paint from the seatpost and using a lot of carbon paste to get a snug fit.
Really like your „build“ videos. I’ve still got mine 20+ year old bike but it’s quite interesting to watch you „doing your thing“ anyway. There is but one detail I want to ask. Compare to R12 build, at 7:01 you’re applying “lithium grease” to headset, not “liquid rubber / disc brake quiet”. Why ?
I have an Airwolf frame and it is pretty much the same as that frame except rim brake. The bolt on the back of the seat post eventually ripped through the carbon on mine so I had to drill the threads out of a bolt and use it as a washer on a new one they sent me. The plain carbon isn't strong enough to support the bolt head on its own which is obvious really. Don't know how they haven't noticed this before selling them.
Another great build! Are going to keep this bike? And what do you prefer to ride now in your hilly area - rim or disc bikes? I almost bought X16 rim brake but french reviewer said I`t was very uncomfortable and ride like a wooden stick - maybe rim version is some old mold becouse disc version gets quite good reviews. The problem with disc for me is weight and groupset avability. Maybe It`s good idea to go mechanical discs for now ;-). This camo trifox looks awsome.
Prefer disc brakes in hills especially in the wet. If you are a skinny 65kg runt then maybe rim brakes , otherwise you want feel the weight difference.
Hi, I have a question about the built. Did you need to modify the plastic insert in the point where the brake tube goes into the frame? Because it seems the tube doesn't fit in the hole, it is too small. Thank you and congratulations for the video, I really appreciated the whole explanation. Sorry if my English is not perfect 😅
You seem to have part of the video in the wrong order. You have the bottom bracket being removed before the section of taking the crank arms off. THe cranks also seemed very tight in the Yoeleo frame. Not much free spin on them
Man! This video is awesome. In fact, I purchased the exact same frameset because of your video. Thank you very much for the detailed build. Just a question: do you know if it could be possible to hide the cables in the headset? I think that, that upgrade would be AWESOME. Cheers from Chile!
I'm not sure. All the cables can be thru the frame but the top headtube needs to be 1" 1/4" to have room for four cables if mechanical or two brake cables if electronic gears. I will check out my Trifox soon and get back to you on that.
Thanks for your answer. Unfortunatelly, my frameset arrived and it has a few differences with the one that you got: 1) My fork is externally routed 😪It has some kind of cable guide (don´t know if that is the correct term) down the left tube. 2) The droupouts are a little bit faulty, and the derailleur hanger is different from yours. 3) The fork hole for the thru axle is strange, it does not have any thread on it. It has to use a nut to keep the axle in place. I think is the chance you take when you purchase something from China, unfortunatelly the seller told me that there is no refund for the fork. Thank you anyway, awesome content.
would be awesome if you could combine a list of all the parts for this build. Maybe even with prices? I am trying to build it, but figuring out all the specs is a pain. Thank you!
Nice review, overall looks llike a fine details to the screws in the breaks and stiffness of the riding while breaking is quite good. what I found from watching the video, the seat post is a bit wobbling or is my impression ?
Hi, really enjoy your videos along with the Aussie wildlife noises. Just a thought on this one which hopefully you can clarify. All other videos I have looked at show the thin tube cable guide being removed once the cable is routed leaving just the inner inside the frame. You show this being left in place as an outer for the inner cable. Is this purely so you can use the anti rattle foam of is that a normal procedure for you to leave that guide tube in place? thanks from the UK
Great video. Did the bottom bracket shell on the Trifox frame need any spacers on the BB68 bottom bracket? I have a frame on order, but unfortunately 'stuck in customs'!
Interestingly, my frame arrived today. Looks good, although the headset lower bearing was very tight - needed a tap with a soft mallet, and the top bearing is quite loose, so I need to find some sort of compound that might take up the tiny gap.
What torque did you use for the seat post wedge? And did you install the seatpost with carbon paste? My seatpost slipped and it destroyed the frame. The seatpost was stopped by the bend in the seat tube (size xs, so the bend starts near the top of the seat tube) and poked through it. I wasnt even riding it outside. I dont have much hope communicating with their customer service. 700 bucks down the drain.
Sorry to hear your misfortune. Always clean and put carbon paste on seatpost and inner contact area of seat tube. Clamp needs to be greased on sliding wedges but not towards the frame or post.Grease bolt thread. 6Nm
@@stevenleffanue hmm. i used carbon paste and had torque around 8nm. yeah really unfortunate. saw on durianriders channel, he also had seatpost slippage issues on his trifox seatpost. i weigh around 80kg, so my weight shouldnt be an issues. some people recommend removing the clear coat with sandpaper because its slippery. maybe that could have helped. all in all, very unfortunate the whole build up went smooth and with no problems..
@@stevenleffanue thanks for your help But there is nothing to fix. The seattube is broken on the front and back. I will not even bother trying to remove the seatpost.
STEVE, I AM IN THE MARKET TO UPGRADE MY ROAD BIKE FRAME ( CURRENTLY RIDING A FELT). RECENTLY, YOU FEATURED TWO FRAMES, TRIFOX AND YEOLEO. AFTER BUILDING AND RIDING BOTH, DO YOU HAVE A FAVORITE? COST IS A FACTOR, BUT COMFORT AND DURABILITY ARE IMPORTANT. I PLAN TO RACE SOME THIS YEAR, AS WELL AS RIDE 4 TO 5 DAYS PER WEEK. ( WEATHER PERMITTING). MANY THANKS. BIG AL P.S. I ENJOY YOUR VIDEOS.
The R12 is more comfortable geometry than Trifox. So if you are younger and more physically flexible the both are good , otherwise R12 would be my recommendation
looking like this will be my next & potentially last frame. hoping i can get it unpainted as i like to paint my own stuff & i am not impressed with their painting skills. now. if i can just find an rival axs and not have to wait until the end of next season to have it delivered.
At 9:50 the inner chainring seems to be mounted the wrong way. Or is this because of the "unsupported" 53/36 combination? I need to try this combination on my Ultegra 6800 :)
3,000km so far and liking it very much. Comfortable, light and sprints well too. Don't like where rear mechanical gear cable exists frame at rear , that's all.
Hello sir. At around 16:24 where you install the start and end housing part of the rear derailleur cable, did you pull the blue liner out or you still put it there? If you still put it there, how did the housing manage to fit. I can't wrap my head around this. Please reply
Nice video. Awesome you share your knowledge of bike building with the noobs so they learn to do things right. As for the bike well, it's not something I would own. I'm not into racing and I certainly don't want to be challenged when I'm out riding. I'm the type that went with a custom builder of titanium frames and had me a frame built for all day comfort because I don't enjoy when the hands or feet go numb or the back and neck make me want to take a rest. You mentioned you can still tolerate the positioning but why would you do that. Cycling is more fun when it feels good which makes me want to cycle even more. Leave the racing to the young dudes.
Nice frame! Instead of Silicone have you tried dry PTFE spray? It is pretty amazing stuff. I was watching a show about UFO's last night and they said PTFE was reverse engineered from UFO tech.....haha
Yes ptfe is a great dry lube for sliding joints too. Silicone creeps and finds it way into a joint really well , ptfe stays where it is put. Pluses n minuses.
No. If the top of the fork crown is conical shaped and the bearing fits snug onto it you don't need the washer. Not using the washer closes the gap between fork crown and headtube tho.
Your attention and explanation about details on greasing is top notch 👏👏💪🤓!! Wonderful build, by the way 🤤🚴♂️💨💨💨
Thank you for all the videos. I am building my first bike right now. Trifox X18. Your videos have given me the confidence to give it a go. I also follow your chain wax protocol. Thank you again for all the videos and educating us newbies.
Im a new sub, old 65 trying to be a racer again. lol...When i was in my early 30's , i owned a bicycle shop for about 6 years to help support my racing habit, I must say, you are a mechanic indeed. Your videos are clear, concise and your expertise in the "new stuff" is great. I run a Team SC 2004 Merckx, super record and a 2004 Litespeed Tachyon super record and putting on about 800 miles this month Jan 2-31 and I am very interested in getting a carbon frame and maybe getting the dura ace for my new rig. Watching this vid is telling me more that i need to get one....
Go for it. Carbon fibre makes great frame building material.
@@stevenleffanue Your group reminds me of my group here in Carson City NV area... Most of my buds have carbon, but for the most part i can keep up and lead still. They say if i get a carbon setup, i will be a champion again, hahaha
Great review, love my trifox winter bike. Amused by the aero loss by exposed handle bar cabling though, people do worry about some ridiculous stuff. My summer bike is a Bianchi Oltre XR4 with vision metron integrated stem/handlebar and some of my front cabling is exposed, trust me when I say, full integrated headset cabling makes zero difference and will also make any jobs you do on this part of the bike take 10x longer....Just a quick tip on trifox, if you have difficulty out of the box with rear gear indexing not quite right, check the hanger alignment, quick tweak sorted my X8 build out nicely. Also, dont expect too much from them fitted to turbo trainers, my only criticism is the lack of metal dropout lugs. When you fit to a turbo the carbon drop outs have a habit of slipping out of the metal axle and skewers...unless you clamp them so tight it actually messes up your gear indexing 🙄😂👍👌
Been awaiting this build and review, and it did not disappoint! Great job on both counts, your opinion carries credence with me.👌
Such a meticulous build
A wish my local bike shop Took the same amount of care with my new bike build.
Mine do but are really only concerned with selling you a whole bike nowadays and wouldn't go anywhere near at OEM frameset such as this - part snobbery, part self preservation? Personally speaking ,I don't want to see anyone riding the same bike as me; there HAS to eb something to differenciate my ride from everyone elses. Imagine shelling out a load of money on a Canyon, Orbea etc and seeing a few of them on your group ride?
build it yourself.
it really is not very difficult. take your time, watch a few vids for each step, & your in bidness
very interesting the content of the video. The technology that these new bikes use is amazing. I have a steel bike from the sixties ... and that bike makes me happy every day! .. thanks for sharing
Having worked in engineering my whole life (now retired) it is NOT a good idea to use silicon lubricants on ANY metal to metal contact points as it promotes galling. Plastic or rubber it's great .
Great vid OC!
I got my X16 yesterday.
Nice....rim brake I assume?
Your build videos are so good and easy to follow. Thank you.
As always, i good and entertaining vid. Always learning stuff from you. Keep going!
Just when I was starting to believe I could manage to build a bike from frame up, you're attention to detail and and quality of this build is making me think mine not end up coming out as nice as I hope haha
Just take your time building it , don't rush and don't panic if you cut a cable too short or something. Hope all goes well.
@@stevenleffanue Thank you, definitely picked up some good advice from this, and my life should be a little easier doing rim brakes too. Cheers
Excellent video as always. Another option for those of us on a tighter budget. I was wondering though, what happened to the R12? I haven't seen a longer-term review.
Looks very cool. Enjoyed the video. Thanks 👍🥰
Another great but also very useful video. You tell us the stuff we actually need to know about !
THIS VIDEO DESERVES 1M VIEWS I JUST LOVE ROAD BIKES
Just to give an update/tip:
My solution to the slipping seatpost, was buying a giant tcr seatpost clamp. You have to file it down a bit to make it fit. But it provides much more clamping area. Also removing all the glossy paint from the seatpost and using a lot of carbon paste to get a snug fit.
Really like your „build“ videos. I’ve still got mine 20+ year old bike but it’s quite interesting to watch you „doing your thing“ anyway. There is but one detail I want to ask. Compare to R12 build, at 7:01 you’re applying “lithium grease” to headset, not “liquid rubber / disc brake quiet”. Why ?
Can use either...was just showing another way to keep bearings from creaking.
I have an Airwolf frame and it is pretty much the same as that frame except rim brake. The bolt on the back of the seat post eventually ripped through the carbon on mine so I had to drill the threads out of a bolt and use it as a washer on a new one they sent me. The plain carbon isn't strong enough to support the bolt head on its own which is obvious really. Don't know how they haven't noticed this before selling them.
Thank you! Would be so interesting to know why you changed to Trifox from Yoeleo...
Next bike could be anything
Another great build! Are going to keep this bike?
And what do you prefer to ride now in your hilly area - rim or disc bikes?
I almost bought X16 rim brake but french reviewer said I`t was very uncomfortable and ride like a wooden stick - maybe rim version is some old mold becouse disc version gets quite good reviews.
The problem with disc for me is weight and groupset avability. Maybe It`s good idea to go mechanical discs for now ;-). This camo trifox looks awsome.
Prefer disc brakes in hills especially in the wet. If you are a skinny 65kg runt then maybe rim brakes , otherwise you want feel the weight difference.
Do consider cable pulled Hydraulics disc break, go watch this th-cam.com/video/vwQuMWnHfEo/w-d-xo.html
Behold a master at work
Great review, I would be interested in seeing you review an older bike. Like a Cannondale caad 8 or something just for fun
Good video, thanks for the detailed information
Great video! Keep bringing good content!
Qué chulada de bicicleta felicidades!!
A great review. You are not the first to point out the need to file holes. Has your shoe struck the rear derailleur cable while riding?
Rarely. Only when starting off and its barely noticeable. I'm size 45 , any larger sizings would have problems.
nice work, hopefully going to go for the x12
Hi, I have a question about the built. Did you need to modify the plastic insert in the point where the brake tube goes into the frame? Because it seems the tube doesn't fit in the hole, it is too small. Thank you and congratulations for the video, I really appreciated the whole explanation. Sorry if my English is not perfect 😅
Filed the fork hole just a little bigger and it's fine
@@stevenleffanue I was talking about the rear brake tube 😁
On your frame or mine?
@@stevenleffanue in your. I've got the same frame, but the plugs are all for cable insert, not for the tube
Lovely frame, nice build
Good man
Cheers from Dublin
Guinness bless you
You seem to have part of the video in the wrong order. You have the bottom bracket being removed before the section of taking the crank arms off. THe cranks also seemed very tight in the Yoeleo frame. Not much free spin on them
Nice bike mate - all the best from Berlin.
Hello OZ, it is very, very good video. Please, tell me what a-head spacers (below stem) did you use? Thank you in advance.
1" 1/8' or 28.6mm
really looking forward to this frame set and nice review
How's the front shifting with 53/36? I thought Shimano literature says max difference should be 16t between chainrings
Works just fine
Man! This video is awesome. In fact, I purchased the exact same frameset because of your video. Thank you very much for the detailed build. Just a question: do you know if it could be possible to hide the cables in the headset? I think that, that upgrade would be AWESOME. Cheers from Chile!
I'm not sure. All the cables can be thru the frame but the top headtube needs to be 1" 1/4" to have room for four cables if mechanical or two brake cables if electronic gears. I will check out my Trifox soon and get back to you on that.
Thanks for your answer. Unfortunatelly, my frameset arrived and it has a few differences with the one that you got:
1) My fork is externally routed 😪It has some kind of cable guide (don´t know if that is the correct term) down the left tube.
2) The droupouts are a little bit faulty, and the derailleur hanger is different from yours.
3) The fork hole for the thru axle is strange, it does not have any thread on it. It has to use a nut to keep the axle in place.
I think is the chance you take when you purchase something from China, unfortunatelly the seller told me that there is no refund for the fork. Thank you anyway, awesome content.
would be awesome if you could combine a list of all the parts for this build. Maybe even with prices? I am trying to build it, but figuring out all the specs is a pain. Thank you!
Basically a groupset , wheels, seat , pedals and bars n stem.
You are inspiring me to build a bike!!
I'm going to buy frame and wheels and wondering with all the different makes out their which one would be best .an aero frame I'd be buying thanks.
Nice review, overall looks llike a fine details to the screws in the breaks and stiffness of the riding while breaking is quite good. what I found from watching the video, the seat post is a bit wobbling or is my impression ?
Seatpost isn't wobbly , the plunger clamp needed some filing to fit properly
Hi, really enjoy your videos along with the Aussie wildlife noises. Just a thought on this one which hopefully you can clarify. All other videos I have looked at show the thin tube cable guide being removed once the cable is routed leaving just the inner inside the frame. You show this being left in place as an outer for the inner cable. Is this purely so you can use the anti rattle foam of is that a normal procedure for you to leave that guide tube in place? thanks from the UK
For the gear cables. Best to leave the catheta tubing in as it provides a non abrasive layer for the cable to slip past the antivibration foam.
@@stevenleffanue Thank you! Found my solution to always have a cable guide for internal routing.
Nice review. Question What model Trifox road frame is an Endurance geometry design?
Don't think they do an endurance frameset
Great video. Did the bottom bracket shell on the Trifox frame need any spacers on the BB68 bottom bracket? I have a frame on order, but unfortunately 'stuck in customs'!
No spacers required...the bb width should match frame bb shell width ie 68mm
Interestingly, my frame arrived today. Looks good, although the headset lower bearing was very tight - needed a tap with a soft mallet, and the top bearing is quite loose, so I need to find some sort of compound that might take up the tiny gap.
Another great vid. What was the finish like inside the frame?
See the "unboxing trifox" video
What torque did you use for the seat post wedge?
And did you install the seatpost with carbon paste?
My seatpost slipped and it destroyed the frame. The seatpost was stopped by the bend in the seat tube (size xs, so the bend starts near the top of the seat tube) and poked through it. I wasnt even riding it outside. I dont have much hope communicating with their customer service. 700 bucks down the drain.
Sorry to hear your misfortune. Always clean and put carbon paste on seatpost and inner contact area of seat tube. Clamp needs to be greased on sliding wedges but not towards the frame or post.Grease bolt thread. 6Nm
@@stevenleffanue hmm. i used carbon paste and had torque around 8nm. yeah really unfortunate. saw on durianriders channel, he also had seatpost slippage issues on his trifox seatpost. i weigh around 80kg, so my weight shouldnt be an issues.
some people recommend removing the clear coat with sandpaper because its slippery. maybe that could have helped.
all in all, very unfortunate the whole build up went smooth and with no problems..
Clean 5he post and inside of frame with IPA. Smear carbon paste on post an I side frame. Should definitely fix
@@stevenleffanue thanks for your help
But there is nothing to fix. The seattube is broken on the front and back. I will not even bother trying to remove the seatpost.
If you like send me a few pictures to my Facebook message. I mite be able to liaise with Trifox for you
STEVE,
I AM IN THE MARKET TO UPGRADE MY ROAD BIKE FRAME ( CURRENTLY RIDING A FELT). RECENTLY, YOU FEATURED TWO FRAMES, TRIFOX AND YEOLEO. AFTER BUILDING AND RIDING BOTH, DO YOU HAVE A FAVORITE? COST IS A FACTOR, BUT COMFORT AND DURABILITY ARE IMPORTANT. I PLAN TO RACE SOME THIS YEAR, AS WELL AS RIDE 4 TO 5 DAYS PER WEEK. ( WEATHER PERMITTING). MANY THANKS. BIG AL P.S. I ENJOY YOUR VIDEOS.
The R12 is more comfortable geometry than Trifox. So if you are younger and more physically flexible the both are good , otherwise R12 would be my recommendation
@@stevenleffanue > THANK YOU!
Thanks for the vid, what happens when you don't have a torque wrench? also is that the procedure for all cranksets or just the shimano's?
Torque wrench particularly when tightening clamps on carbon fiber.
53/36 chain ring combo? Shimano dont recommend going beyond a 16 tooth gap (except of course for GRX groupset). Did you have many problems?
No problems at all , I don't cross-chain so that avoids extreme chain stretching or slackness.
Do more like this please 🙏
Hi @oz cycle,
How's the bike today? still in good condition ? will you create a long-term review?
Yes it's going great actually. Yes I'm planning a long-term review
looking like this will be my next & potentially last frame.
hoping i can get it unpainted as i like to paint my own stuff & i am not impressed with their painting skills.
now. if i can just find an rival axs and not have to wait until the end of next season to have it delivered.
At 9:50 the inner chainring seems to be mounted the wrong way. Or is this because of the "unsupported" 53/36 combination? I need to try this combination on my Ultegra 6800 :)
It is the correct way around
keen on buying that frame.. hows the long term performance?
3,000km so far and liking it very much. Comfortable, light and sprints well too. Don't like where rear mechanical gear cable exists frame at rear , that's all.
18:52 definitely a manicure treat.. lol. And yeah Finally subscribed.. hahahah. I think I'm gonna pull the trigger on a Trifox
I would do the bottom bracket with wheels and tyres fitted and then lean on the spanner.
Hello sir. At around 16:24 where you install the start and end housing part of the rear derailleur cable, did you pull the blue liner out or you still put it there? If you still put it there, how did the housing manage to fit. I can't wrap my head around this. Please reply
Preferably leave it on or as much as possible.
@@stevenleffanue Thank you for replying
Hi I'm going to build a bike what make frame and wheels would you recommend to me to buy . thanks
Wish I had a spare ultegra r8000 lying around
Where did you get that geometry copy tool? Super cool gadget.
It's home made.
He made some detailed videos about it
How did the sizing compare to previous builds?
Steve, where did you get the blue tubing for the cables?
Aliexpress.
AU $2.23 20%OFF | 3m Bicycle Brake Shifting Slick Lube Catheter Road Mountain Bike Brake Cable Oil Tube Inner Conduit Pipe Housing
a.aliexpress.com/_mPYIIge
Great content!
How tall are you? And how long is the steering wheel takeaway?
1.8m tall. Stem is 110mm
What kind of oil do you use to lubricate carbon cups?
What are carbon cups?
Nice video. Awesome you share your knowledge of bike building with the noobs so they learn to do things right. As for the bike well, it's not something I would own. I'm not into racing and I certainly don't want to be challenged when I'm out riding. I'm the type that went with a custom builder of titanium frames and had me a frame built for all day comfort because I don't enjoy when the hands or feet go numb or the back and neck make me want to take a rest. You mentioned you can still tolerate the positioning but why would you do that. Cycling is more fun when it feels good which makes me want to cycle even more. Leave the racing to the young dudes.
YEY BOI!!!!!!1 :)
Nice frame! Instead of Silicone have you tried dry PTFE spray? It is pretty amazing stuff. I was watching a show about UFO's last night and they said PTFE was reverse engineered from UFO tech.....haha
Yes ptfe is a great dry lube for sliding joints too. Silicone creeps and finds it way into a joint really well , ptfe stays where it is put. Pluses n minuses.
Nice
Do I need to install the split crown race on the fork's steerer? I got a X16 and if I use it the fork doesn't sit flush with the frame?
No. If the top of the fork crown is conical shaped and the bearing fits snug onto it you don't need the washer. Not using the washer closes the gap between fork crown and headtube tho.
@@stevenleffanue Thanks man! it seems for the X16 it doesn't go with the split crown race ring.
Can you just throw in my direction your extra Yeoleo frames right there in the background? You know share the blessings 😇😇
If any of our local riders break their frame and need a new frameset they can have it cheap.
0:59 nice demonstration of horrendous BB
1:35 Why lithium? Would be calcium grease better?
Calcium grease is usually for heavy duty machinery.
Q: how do you know where the sit bone points are on the saddle?
Watch the two part video series on "finding the ideal saddle".
A threaded,generic bottom bracket,what a joy,if only it was a legal standard.
I was looking at the x10 frame until I looked at the geo chart, they are SO short, the XL frame is less than 400mm reach. I'd need a 160mm stem 🤣🤣🤣
Do you want to sell the "old" Yoleo frameset?
Only to local riders , costs too much freight otherwise
We need cheapest uci approved frame
I like your Yoeleo much more than the Trifox even though it's more expensive.
"Proudly" MADE IN CHINA Carbon creaking rules. Everyone should have a geometry copy tool.
Pass.
Hi my frend how to contact you...
Instagram or Facebook "Oz cycle"