Too much Engine Choke | Does this to your Engine. Chainsaw or Lawnmower wont start!
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 11 ส.ค. 2020
- * VISUALLY EXPLAINED
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Using too much engine choke can indeed cause a flooding issue and prevent the engine from starting. To understand why, let's explore the mechanics behind this common problem.
The Purpose of the Choke: The choke is a device in small engines like chainsaws and lawnmowers that restricts the flow of air to the carburetor. It serves a crucial role during cold starts by increasing the fuel-to-air ratio. When the engine is cold, it needs more fuel and less air for proper combustion, and the choke helps achieve this by partially closing off the air supply.
Fuel Enrichment: When you engage the choke, it narrows the air passage, which increases the vacuum in the carburetor. As a result, the carburetor draws in more fuel compared to the limited amount of air, creating a richer mixture.
The Flooding Effect: If you keep the choke engaged for too long or push it too far, the engine gets an excessive amount of fuel in the carburetor. When this happens, the fuel-air mixture becomes overly rich and saturated. The carburetor bowl can overflow, causing fuel to flood into the engine.
The Consequences of Flooding: When the engine is flooded, there is too much fuel for ignition. An overly rich mixture doesn't burn efficiently, making it difficult for the spark plug to ignite it. As a result, the engine won't start, or it might start and stall immediately because it can't burn all the excess fuel.
Problems Beyond Non-Starting: Flooding can lead to other issues as well. The excess fuel can wash away the lubricating oil on the cylinder walls, increasing friction and possibly causing damage over time. It can also foul the spark plug, making it necessary to clean or replace it.
Proper Choke Usage: To avoid flooding, it's important to use the choke correctly. Engage the choke when starting a cold engine, and once the engine starts, gradually disengage it as the engine warms up. A good rule of thumb is to push it in or open it up slightly as the engine gains temperature. This allows for a smooth transition from the enriched cold-start mixture to a leaner, normal operating mixture.
In conclusion, the choke is a valuable tool for starting a cold engine, but using too much of it for too long can lead to flooding, causing starting problems and potential engine damage. Proper choke management is essential to ensure that your engine starts smoothly and runs efficiently.
Whether your chainsaw wont start, or you need to know how to tune a chainsaw, how to tune a quad bike, how to tune a mini pocket bike or how to tune a carburetor in general, knowing some basics of how these two carburetors work will give you an understanding of why you are doing the adjustment.
The more you learn about, carburetors and how they function, the easier you will find it to tackle carburetor diagnosis and repairs. This is a chance to sit back and increase your knowledge!
Many thanks indeed
Craig Kirkman (Owner and creator of The Repair Specialist channel and copyrighted diagrammatic content) Please check out my amazon shop. I have recommended some useful items from Amazon below. I guarantee you that these items are the sorts of things I use on a daily basis so I know they are good. I have to be careful in recommending products because I have my name and credibility at stake. So I will only recommend good products. www.amazon.co.uk/shop/therepa...
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There you go. I like simple explanations.
Me to Mick.
Thank you so much for the nice feedback. I really appreciate it. Craig
Craig your videos are so helpful. It’s nice to get a full understanding of what is actually happening and why. Thank you much for sharing your knowledge. 😊😊😊
Thank you so much for your nice feedback. It's comments like yours that motivate me to continue making these videos. Craig 😀👍
Thank you, you’ve aced the explanation! Simple, to the point and interesting.
Thank you so much man!!! This cleared up a lot for me :))) diagram and explanation was 100% 10/10 amazing
That was a great explanation Thank you.
Very well explained
Thank you. I appreciate it 👍
Thank you so much! I've been working on a car together with a friend of mine for a while now. It's so nice to know what the hell he's been talking about :)
Wonderful explanation.
Great simple explanation... you got a new subscriber here!!!👍👍👍
Thank you so much for your nice feedback. It's comments like yours that motivate me to continue making these videos. Craig 😀👍
absolutely beautiful explaining. subscribed instantly and i plan on watching much more. thank you!
That's fantastic. Thank you so much. Craig
Fantastic explanation thank you so much
Thank you so much for your nice feedback. It's comments like yours that motivate me to continue making these videos. Craig 😀👍
so helpful thank you!
You're so welcome! Craig 👍
It also damages the engine because some of the the unburnt fuel gets past the piston rings and dilutes the engine oil.
Yes absolutely. Very good point👍
Another good explanation, great informative videos. Just in an attempt to add something for others to note, this same over fueling/ choked condition could also be caused by a blocked or very dirty air filter which would also make the engine run rich.
Yes absolutely. Thank you so much for the nice feedback. I really appreciate it. Craig
Thank you
You're welcome 👍👍👍
Brilliant video as always! I've a strange issue where my choke doesn't actually do anything. The machine (Titan petrol strimmer) takes a lot of pulls to get going on any choke setting. When it runs and I apply the choke it does nothing, shouldn't it bog down the machine and eventually stop it? I have checked the choke assembly with another machine and it appears fine. I have changed the carb for a new one with a primer bulb setup as opposed to a purge bulb I can only think it has something to do with that?
Can i ride in choke on in low rpm for like significant distance bcz it will help in tight twisty roads?
Another good video.
Should be "affects" though. ;-)
Thank you so much for the nice feedback. I really appreciate it. Craig
My 4hp Hangkai outboard engine will only run with the choke on. I've tried cleaning the carb and jets with carb cleaner but it's still the same. As soon as I switch the choke off it stalls. Anyone got any ideas please? And will it damage the engine if I keep running it with the choke on?
Thank you. Very informative. Question: I have an 8hp single cylinder Tecumseh HMSK80 engine on my snowblower. When cold and with the choke on 3 primes on the primer bulb the engine starts right up and runs well. After running the engine for a few minuets to get it nice and warm, I shut down the engine. With the choke still in the open position (choke off) it will not start unless I prime it once or don't prime it but put the choke back on then it will start and run fine. The carb is completely clean, checked the fuel cap, it's venting, check for spark while it was hot. I had spark. I cleaned the fuel tank and made sure all was dry. I used canned fuel 92 octane (NO ethanol), New spark plug. It's an old style Tecumseh carb adjustable. I set the carb to manual specs. The carb bowl jet adjusted out 1.5 turns and the air fuel mix one turn out. I also tried it at 1 1/4 turn out as well. So why does my warm engine need the choke on when warmed up? Thanks for taking a look.
Awesome explanation. I’m living in Vietnam and I have an old Honda 67 motorbike. If I don’t ride it for a couple of days I need to use the choke to start it. But recently when I start the bike, it runs for about 2 seconds and then even if I twist the accelerator, the engine will just die. Any idea why it won’t run? I can start the engine using the choke (won’t start if the choke is off), but I can’t keep it running, it just stops. I had to get a taxi to the consulate this morning cos I couldn’t get it running :(
Did u check the spark plug? Sometimes dirty sparkplug becomes problem.
What is the time limit in using the choke?
I cold start half-choke for half a second, then put full for about 15-30 seconds tops, then back down to half for about 5 secs, then off. At least that's how I cold start my bike after a week to two weeks of no start.
I have a 2002 honda rebel 250. I was tuning the carb by adjusting the idle and fuel mixture screws. After, with the bike being warm from riding for about 20 mins, the bike would die if I opened the choke. Is this normal?
it doesnt sound normal to me, a Good place to start is to reset the carburetor from scratch :) are you familiar process for this?
-craig
Hi Craig, I have a 2 stroke engine that used to start perfectly on choke when cold. I had the engine rebuilt and ever since, it won’t start on choke and is difficult to start generally (but will start) with choke off. I cleaned out the carby, but just a bit lost as to why this might be happening. Any feedback would be appreciated, if possible?
do U need a CHOKE if engine starts with OPEN choke ? NO CHOKE
@THEREPAIRSPECIALIST First, thanks for vid and you are correct on the needle and seat. Next, you was clear unlike so many where a 5 sec is a 20 min video with here is your dinner crap and joke to get views. Because views is more money and some only care of that. One thing I can't stand is a vid that the poster replies to for about a hr to kick start the replies and you never hear no more. I see you do reply so I will take the time to explain my story. The comment will be long so to others that don't want to read or spend time- skip.... Info- Yard Machine riding mower. 2007. Briggs engine I/C 17.5 same style as one you have showing. Sits on a Nikki carb # 799727... Fuel filter I put on it was not the little round one. It was #493629 691035. I put new gas lines on it as well as flushed tank clean. About me so you are aware I know some and not total in the dark in working on stuff. I been repairing electronics since the 80's. I have worked on two stroke stuff and a little four a decade or so. My own stuff only. I have rebuilt carbs from the ground up by cleaning and kit install. Mostly two stroke blowers and weed eaters. Worked on my fair share of push mowers as well. I have no degree, but put the effort in study and learning. Some things I do are not right or I may not know and try. I do take blame and certainly in this case with above riding mower I need input on.
That said here is the story on my mower I brought about 3 months ago used. The mower looked pretty good and checked out to me when I looked around. I mowed with it for two grass cuts ( about a week apart ) and it was fine. Course I wanted to clean the engine and all that. I also know about bad gas and cheap gas. I assumed the owner did use cheap gas and left that sitting at times. Natural to me I took the carb apart and behold it was nasty crusted ( but it ran fine lol ). Cleaned it and all holes etc and got it looking new. Mowed my lawn and all was fine and smooth. Came back five days later ( after the two weeks of two grass cuts ) and attempted to start. It would not and herd compression pop at air filter hole. Removed that cover and the filter was dry, but the tube was soaked in gas. Also the carb bowl in middle leaked outside of it. Checked my oil and gas was to smell. Ordered a online cheap rebuild kit ( my first in hopes was good ). Installed new needle, float, O rings, gasket and fuel mix ajust screw ( ajusted that out 1 and half turn ) . Keep in mind the seat is the whole plastic body that goes in carb. -Nikki- 799727-. Tested solenoid on regulated power supply and checked out fine. Next, the oil was changed ( I changed that also when first brought mower ) and never seen nothing like it. Just gushed out forever gas and oil bad. At THIS point I put a gas shut valve on it. All that said and done I started mower when I turned gas shut off on. Fired up and ran smooth for about 15 sec and engine slowly bogged and died. As it shot gas up the air filter tube right behind where filter sits. Shut the valve off and restarted which is struggled at first and back to running. Another 15 sec and same issue. Smelled under the oil fill cap and no gas smell yet....... So, I solved the gas leaking out middle of bowl with new gasket I guess. I did NOT solve the flooding. After a 7 hr day sweating outside in 97 heat I pushed mower in shed. Few days later I opened carb and pulled all out I did in rebuild kit. I brought a few kits so I redid another. Carb back on and same issue. Put mower in shed lol. Never brought a cheap China carb so did not want that route yet. Carb two- Found a exact used original Nikki carb online and brought. Sat and got said and it was nasty outside. Nothing like the listing so I suspected bad gas. I opened such and it was the worst I seen. Rebuilt it with a cheap kit after ordering more kits. Brought new oil and did another oil change. Put carb on and same issue. At this point after issue I took both carbs apart and swapped old and new parts every which way. I put both carbs on and got same issue. Ordered a original Briggs bowl gasket, jet only and installed. Got same issue. 3rd stage- Found a 3rd Nikki original online and guy said pulled from blown mower two months ago working. Installed it after apart and spraying carb cleaner in it and got same issue flooding to crank flood in bowl. Next I put a aftermarket rebuild kit in it and still floods to crankcase after 15 sec. I am at my end and wasted a month and money and do not understand what is going on here. Oil wasted, 90 oct no eth gas wasted on 3 carbs with same result. At this point the grass is really tall lol. I am getting to the point also worried my engine may blow with all this jerking around. It had a few times vapor locked and or it struggles to turn over on start spinning at the top when you look. As it stands of this date mower is in shed. I did NOW ( August 16, 2020 ) order a cheap new China carb. But I get this gut feeling it is going to do the same thing flooding. Now the fun continues with all the research and vids. Which is a waste of more time on many. Get to the subject of flooding and all they say is needle and seat replace. Many have said the same issue as me on new and many carb replaces and rebuild and have same issue. No one says a thing or knows on the solve or exact issue. Others say they replaced needle and seat in same carb and been just fine. What the hell..... You got people who use crap gas and mow one time a week. Leave sit all winter and just fine on these Nikki junk systems. Others got to put a shut off and that don't work. Go through a whole ordeal and nothing. Thing still floods in crankcase. Than I am curious about the shutoff. What about the gas in carb and also upon turn on. Wouldn't that get in the crank and wreak motor in time? Why should we even have to add a shut off or carb hop even on new stuff. What happen to running good gas and a new or rebuilt carb and fine. This whole thing is a nightmare indeed. So the issue at this point is after 3 carbs and all mentioned I get flooding in crank. Oddly to me the engine WILL run just fine and smooth. THAT IS- when you start it For now till I keep jerking around on it. 1.Turn valve on and it starts and does great on low and high. That is on all 3 carbs. 2. 15 sec later all hell breaks loose and floods crank with alot of gas backing up air filter tubes. Any takers please on the exact issue and solving it beside a needle and seat? Or... spend the 45 on a original kit and install that in a carb and it will solve. I think the problem is a bit more though. But I will await for input before I do anything and watch the grass grow. For now all I see is no one knows nothing on this exact issue when all mentioned was done and still get flood. Sad part is the mower is fine and it will sit, get tossed or what ever and I will go back to push mowing. Because I can't afford to send it out to have a $100 a hr person look at it. And this was my first riding mower I ever got for me.
Very well explained
Thank you for your feedback I really appreciate it. Craig 👍